Master of Engineering Management (TE) Program

Department of Textile Engineering

COURSE CONTENTS:
Course Introduction: Objectives, Methodology, Benefits Textile Industry of Pakistan: An Overview Apparel Manufacturing Merchandising Product Costing Management Supply Chain Management in Apparel Industry

OBJECTIVES:
The objective of this Apparel & Merchandising Management course is to train participants on best practices in pre-production, apparel manufacturing and merchandising management. This course will impart in-depth and practical understanding of these processes through:
Knowledge of best practice processes

Processes in apparel sector Information on international and regional trends Business communication and relationship management skills

METHODOLOGY:

This will be imparted through:

Classroom lectures Group discussions Assignments Presentations

BENEFITS:
This course will enable to: *Knowledge about Apparel Manufacturing processes & Management. *Knowledge about Merchandising Management. *Increase process velocity. *Shorten product development cycle time.

*Reduce customer order processing time.

*Increase on time deliveries. *Increase order fulfilment efficiency.

*Production planning and monitor orders throughout the order cycle.

*Effective material planning. *Enhance communication skills with the buyer and vendors.

Pakistan & Global Textile:

Overview of Textile Industry:

Spinning Weaving Knitting Processing Garment Manufacturing
Weaving

Process Map

Spinning

Processing

Apparel Manufacturing

Knitting

Spinning:
Total Spinning Units 408 Units Total No. of Installed Spindles Ring Spindles 10 Million Rotor Spindles 0.15 Million Total Yarn Production 2.5 Million Metric-Tons Total Yarn Exports 83 Billion PKR
Simplex Ring AutoCone

Blow Room

Carding

Drawing

Rotor

Process Map

Source: BOI

Weaving:
Total Weaving Units 549 Units Total Installed Weaving Machines Shuttlless Machines 30,000 Power Looms 2,75,000 Total Production 8 Billion Sq. Mtrs Total Fabric Exports 126 Billion PKR

Warping

Sizing

Weaving

Grading

Process Map
Source: BOI

Knitting:
Total Total Total Total Knitwear Units Installed Knitwear Machines Knitwear Production Knitwear Exports 1200 18000 89 million Dozen 105 Billion PKR

Yarn Dyeing

Knitting

Process Map

Source: BOI

Processing:
Total Processing Units 750

Total Dyed and Printed Fabric Production

Total Processed Fabric Exported

4 Billion Sq. Mtrs.

41.8 Billion PKR

Woven Fabric

Desizing

Scouring

Bleaching

Dyeing

Printing

Knit Fabric

Scouring

Bleaching

Dyeing

Process Map

Source: BOI

Apparels:
Total No. of Units Total Installed Machines Total Apparel Production 5000 7,50,000 700 Million Pcs

Cutting

Stitching

Garment Finishing

Process Map

Source: BOI

Apparel / Made-ups Statistics:

Units 5000 Cottage Units 80% Industrial Units 20% Installed Machines 750,000 Cottage Machines 450,000 Industrial Machines 300,000 Woven Garments Production 56 M Doz. Knitted Garment Production 89 M Doz. (Capacity 110 M Doz.) Made-up Production (Incl. Home Textiles, bed-ware, towel) Export Trend (Category-wise)

Cutting

Stitching

Garment Finishing

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Process Map

APPAREL: Definition
To dress or clothe or cover To adorn or embellish. Any article of clothing. (Garment) An outer covering or outward appearance. Anything that decorates or covers. Clothing, especially outerwear; garments; attire; raiment Superficial appearance; aspect; guise.

* The garment production processing steps and techniques involved in the manufacturing garments for the large scale of production in industrial basis for business purposes is called garments manufacturing technology. Garments factories are classified according to their product types are as follows: 1. Woven Garment Factory. 2. Knit Garments factory * Sewing apparel products has always been and remains a laborintensive activity while textile production has been a capital-intensive industry

* Apparel manufacturing depends much less on capital investment and more on the skill of the individual workers in the sequence of operations required in apparel production.

APPAREL MANUFACTURING PROCESSES:

Stepwise garments manufacturing sequence on industrial basis is given below: Design / Sketch Pattern Design Sample Making Production Pattern Pattern Grading Lay Planning Marker Making Spreading Cutting Sorting/Bundling Sewing/Assembling Cropping Inspection Pressing/ Finishing Final Inspection Packing Despatch

This is the Basic Production Flowchart of a Garment. In advance some of the process can be added or removed.

Here is a brief discussion of every process steps of Garments & Apparel Manufacturing Technology:Design or Sketch: Before making an apparel of garments we must have to design or sketch the appearance completely. It helps us at the further process to monitor the manufacturing faults and process shortage. Pattern Design: Every piece of Apparel or Garment is built upon a pattern. The pattern is made by the standard sizes of Men and Women. We must have to make pattern to follow while manufacturing a garment product. It saves time and increase the rate of accuracy of making. Sample Making: Before going for a bulk production; its a smart step to make a complete sample of the desired apparel. After making the sample if the production manager thinks that this okey; then the further bulk apparel or garment production is to be carried out by following the exact size and quality of that sample. Production Pattern: After making the cloth sample; its wise to make a production sample that will be hanged out in front of every labor that are recruited to make this clothing eventually. Grading: Grading is done in order to grade various sizes of garment in separate place so that it would be easier to inspection and maintain the export works at last. Marker Making: Market making is the process to sketch on fabric before cutting it. Market is to be in standard size required by the buyers. Spreading: After making a market; we have to spread the whole fabric over the spreading table in order to put Marker and pattern over it. Cutting: After successfully spread the fabric and putting all the marks and sketch by the marker; this is the time to cut the fabrics according to design. Shorting & Bundling: Some shorting task is done in order to list the same number of parts in a separate place. Sewing & Assembling: Each of the parts of a clothing should be sewed or assembled in order to make a complete apparel that are wearable. Inspection: In this step of garment manufacturing process each of the complete apparel or garment is to be checked and recheked. If any faults is found; then the whole process should be repeated. Pressing or Finishing: After making an apparel it is to be pressed by the Compressed Machine in order to bring it in bale form for export. Packing: After making a bale of these garment clothing; Packing is done!

MERCHANDISING: Definition
The word MERCHANDISING evolves from Merchandise (meaning: the commodities and goods that are bought and sold in business) Merchandising is a function resulting in sale and purchase of goods at the agreed price, at the agreed date and of the agreed quality.

Merchandising function involves all activities directly or indirectly linked with procuring and selling of goods, planning and monitoring.

Apparel Merchandising:
Apparel Merchandising is all about costing of apparels, selecting and ordering latest trendy materials, styles, sizes and overall apparel specifications to the manufacturers according to the main buyers requirement. The people who manage this whole apparel merchandising process is called apparel merchandiser. Apparel merchandising is a process to create a communication bridge with the buyer and manufacturers. In the fashion and apparel world; Merchandiser plays very important role and most of the fashion and apparel buying house slightly dependent upon those apparel merchandisers.

What is a Merchandiser expected to do?

A Merchandiser is expected to perform the following roles and responsibilities: All communication, information flow throughout the order cycle (with buyers & with departments within the company and vendors) from receipt of order to final shipping of goods. Costing negotiations (with buyers and vendors). Detailed production planning and monitoring (i.e. preparing Time & Action calendar closure of T&A with buyer and vendor). Approvals on fabrics and accessories. Order tracking and monitoring ON TIME shipment status Monitoring material utilization for every order. Ensuring all products meet the specified testing parameters as laid down by the buyer / customer. Approval on fabric quality, color, shade banding and also approval on trims. Coordination between various departments (such as fabrics, sampling, purchase, production, quality assurance and logistics) for smooth execution and timely delivery of orders. Capacity planning for the season (in coordination with the production departments) In some cases merchandisers are expected to supervise design and development activities as part of the account management of strategic customers.

Apparel Merchandising Tasks:

The tasks of an apparel merchandising section depends upon the type of garments or apparel houses own this section and what these fashion houses ultimate goal is. But, whether these buying house uses this merchandising section; there are still some common works that are done by the team of Apparel Merchandising. Here are some of these tasks that will convey clear concepts to the enthusiasts like you who were desperately trying to know what is apparel merchandising and how the system works:
Predicting upcoming fashion trends and implementing it at new apparel manufacturing projects. Adding cutting-edge textiles apparels and clothing into the stores. Ordering certain quality of fabrics along with required sizes, colors and shapes. Making costing plans for a new design. Costing for a new style and fabrics along with the accessories and manufacturing costs involved. Analyzing the market to know where to manufacture the next apparel to save cost. Building correspondence with buyers and the manufacturers. Pressuring the manufacturing industries to deliver a product in time. Suggesting the manufacturers about the quality and styles and sent proposals to modify anything if required.

Apparel Merchandising Jobs:

Apparel Merchandisers usually have a very lucrative and gorgeous career these days. As the fashion house and apparel fashion costing personnel is highly demanding in the industry; a merchandiser can easily get into this kind of arena with a smart salary. Some of the popular apparel merchandising jobs are found in: Textiles and Apparel Industry. Apparel Buying House. Fashion House. Fashion Consultation Firm. Apparel Import and Export Firm. Apparel Designing & Purchasing Company and so on.

Merchandising Process Flow:

Cost of Article:

Fabric Thread Trims Labor Business overhead Profit

Costing include:
Purchase of raw materials Accessories, Fabrics forming Processing and finishing of fabrics Sewing Packing of garments Transport and conveyance Shipping Over heads Banking charges & commissions

Price of a Garment:
1. Fabric consumption. 2. Gross weight of other components of garment. 3. Fabric cost . 4. Fabric cost per garment. 5. Other charges (print, embroidery, etc.) 6. Cost of trims (labels, tags, badges, twill tapes,
buttons, bows, etc.)

7. CMT charges 8. Cost of accessories (hangers, inner boards,

polybags, cartons, etc)

9. Cost of a garment.

Management Key Concepts:

Organizations: People working together and coordinating their actions to achieve specific goals. Goal: A desired future condition that the organization seeks to achieve.

1-3

Management: The process of using organizational resources to achieve the organizations goals by... Planning, Organizing, Leading, and Controlling

Additional Key Concepts:

Resources are organizational assets and include: People, Machinery, Raw materials, Information, skills, Financial capital.
Managers are the people responsible for supervising the use of an organizations resources to meet its goals.

Four Functions of Management

Planning
Choose Goals

Controlling
Monitor & measure

Organizing
Working together

Leading
Coordinate

Three Levels of Management

Top Managers

Middle Managers
First-line Managers Non-management

What Is Supply Chain Management (SCM)?

Plan Source Make Deliver Buy

A set of approaches used to efficiently integrate

Suppliers Manufacturers Warehouses Distribution centers

So that the product is produced and distributed

In the right quantities To the right locations And at the right time

System-wide costs are minimized and Service level requirements are satisfied

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The Supply Chain Another View

Plan

Source

Make

Deliver

Buy

Suppliers

Manufacturers

Warehouses & Distribution Centers

Customers

Material Costs

Transportation Transportation Costs Transportation Costs Manufacturing Costs Inventory Costs Costs 42

Apparel / Madeups
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SWOT Analysis of Apparel / Made-ups:

Strengths

Cotton fabric available (both knitted and woven) Raw material (Coarse count yarn) available for terry towel Wider width processed fabric available for bed-ware. Known suppliers of bed-ware and towels in the global market.
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SWOT Analysis of Apparel / Made-ups

Weaknesses
Supply side Constraints According to World Bank Report 2006, Pakistan productivity is 37 on a scale of 100 for China. India is 46. Blended fabrics not locally produced in enough quantities Lack of common R&D facility for fabric development and design development Production process inefficiencies and low labor productivities

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SWOT Analysis of Knitwear

Weaknesses A Study by WERNER shows following deficiencies in knitwear
Cutting room productivity Middle managment training Balancing in sewing and finishing Finishing section productivity Organization of producing sections Quality control efficiency Sewing section productivity Work methods Ratio of indirect personnel Lay-out of producing sections Quality of finished products Machinery 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 3.4 3.8 4.2 4.6 5 5.2 5.4 5.6 6.2 6.8 7.4 8 8 9 4910

SWOT Analysis of Apparel / Made-ups

Opportunities Skill training is of short duration and cost effective Increased demand for quality fabric has the potential to pull the total value chain, out of its current mediocrity. Technical textiles is a niche area yet untapped. Globally apparel manufacturing (Sewing, Stitching and Cutting) attract women workforce with 90% women share. Value of currency is changing in India and China to our advantage. Women wear production has not yet been tapped in Pakistan.
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