Knitting of Khadi Yarn

Material Description :Material was purchased from Dausa, Rajasthan. Material used to manufacture the yarn is cotton. The count of single yarn is 27.2s (cotton count). Twist of yarn is S. Twist per inch of yarn is 20. Lee strength of yarn is 60. Count Strength Product is 1632.

Machines Description :1.a)Winding machine of spindle capacity 4. b)Speed of the machine is 1400 rpm.

2.a)TFO of spindle capacity 12. b)Spindle speed is 3500 rpm.

3.a)Single Jersy Knitting Machine. b)Cone capacity of this machine is 36. c)Speed of the machine is 10 rpm. d)Gauge of the knitting machine is 20.

Process Description :- The yarn purchased from dausa was single yarn.
The purchased yarn was then wound to remove the observable faults like bigger knots,free ends, bigger thick place (slubs) & convert the bigger package into smaller one. The cones were then used to manufactutre a knitted fabric. But due to low strength & S twist yarn could not run on the knitting machine. There is the question that why S twist created a problem to run the material. The main reason behind this is direction of rotation of the machine needles. This direction rotates the yarn in clockwise direction. This rotation weakens the yarn & this results yarn breakage. To overcome the weakness problem of the yarn, the single yarn then converted into plied yarn to provide Z twist. Plied yarn created another problem of wraping one yarn on another. But plied yarn acquired more strength to run. After that we used only two parallely wound yarn to overcome the problem of wrap. Inspite of these trial thick place like slub is still the problem.

Problems faced :- Followings are the main problems faced during the
manufacturing process. Breakage of yarn :- Vibration of two yarns at the top of the spindle of the drum reduces the tension and due to lack of tension two yarns get separated and one yarn gets accumulated around the other yarn and TFO does not provide the proper tension in the region of accumulation. When this yarn passes through the yarn guide the the accumulated place stops the furthure movement of yarn and yarn breaks. Two parallely wound yarn has not such type of problems. This also seizes the rotation of the single yarn. Fabric damage :- Any broken yarn if not sensed creates the bigger hole untill the machine was not stopped and free ends joined. Longer thick places also create bigger hole. Short thick places create smaller hole. The problems of thick places can be overcomed by using the knitting machine of lower gauge. But due to bigger loop size fabric will not be good for application. Higher Load on the knitting machine:- Thick places increase the load on the moter so much that machine gets stopped untill the load is not reduced.

To tackle the above problems.

It is necessary to run the machine on low speed. Remove the thick places stopping the machine. Use the double yarn well Z twisted plied yarn if single yarn strength is not sufficient. The reasons of thick places may be due to bad piecing, improper draft, accumulation of short fibres on the yarn coming out of the front roller delivery & flyes generated during the spinning and winding. So cleaning is also necessary at certain time interval.

Chemacal Processing of Manufactured Fabric

After removal the fabric from the machine. There are a lot off numbers of stains of oil, grease, dust, dirt & touch of the hand and any dark spots. All these defects are removed by scouring & bleaching process.

Scouring of cotton fabric :- The process of scouring is applied to remove the oil, grease and other lubricants presnt in the fabric. Procedure of scouring :- Wet the fabric & deep into set bath. After running the material for one hour, rinse the fabric and dry. Recipe :Liquour ratio - 1: 10 Kaustic Soda (NaOH)- 4% by weight of material Wetting Agent- 1% Temperature- At boil Time-1 hour Bleaching of cotton fabric :- This process is applied to remove all the stains and improve the whiteness of the fabric. To keep the material soft the following recipe is applied. pH-9 Amount of H2O2-4gpl Stabiliser-0.5 gpl (i have not used this chemical) Time-1.5 hrs-2hrs Temperature- 90-95 degree celcius Liquour ratio-1:10