Documenti di Didattica
Documenti di Professioni
Documenti di Cultura
Rijeka
Summer 2019
Start the
countdown!
Rijeka 2020: City of Cultúr
_ Port of Diversity
Contents
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
What’s On 6 Kvarner 46
Events galore Out and about
Restaurants 13 Shopping 55
Lunch or dinner, you pick Take home the best memories and souvenirs
The variety of fish in the Adriatic Sea exhibition in Natural History Museum, photo by Marinko Babić
What’s On
Enrich your calendar, see the
exhibitions, concerts, and special
events in and around town
What’s
What’s On
On
Exhibitions media form to another with a focus on the artist's experi-
mental treatment of language from the 1970s till now. It’s
17.05 - 01.05 » The variety of fish in the the dual position of a visual artist and poet who obses-
Adriatic Sea sively accepts the analysis of language in the role of art.
An analytical insight into the integral role into how fish QA‑1, The Modern and Contemporary Art Museum,
have a huge impact on the biodiversity of the Adriatic sea. Krešimirova 26c, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, www.mmsu.hr.
At this point, there are approximately 458 vast species in
our sea, making it one of the richest seas in the Mediter-
ranean. The photos here touch our very conscience in why Festivals
species are becoming endangered, picturing the causes
of degradation and habitat destruction through various 14.06 - 15.06 » Dark Circle Fest
ways. QThe Natural History Museum, Lorenzov prolaz The abandoned factory halls of the Hartera complex
1, www.prirodoslovni.com. provide a suitably gritty backdrop to this festival of dark
metal, with bands performing on two stages over two
06.06 - 11.07 » The Radoslav Putar Prize days. Headlining are Kryn and Nanowar of Steel. Q-2, Har-
The four finalists of the Radoslav Putar Prize, presented tera FactoryQwww.facebook.com/darkcirclefest.
every year to the most promising young Croatian artist,
get to show why they were placed on the short list. It’s 21.06 - 23.06 » Krk Music Fest
certainly a splendid introduction to what Croatian artists Krk is all set to become the centre of attention, with Krk
are doing these days. 2019 finalists are Sabina Mikelić, Pre- Music Fest. This 3 day event will see the island town of
drag Pavić, Božidara Katić and Tin Dožić.QD‑2, Mali salon, Krk transformed into a centre of music, food, and culture!
Korzo 24, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, www.mmsu.hr. There are 5 main locations in the town where you can find
something to enjoy, but that’s not all there’ll be. Qwww.
01.01 - 31.12 » The First in the World – Rijeka krkmusicfest.com.
Torpedo
You are at home to the torpedo, one of the greatest 19th
century inventions and fans will be able to see fifty original Film
objects, torpedoes, launching tubes, different types of 19.06 - 11.09 » Seeing! A Photon’s Journey
gyroscopes, direction and speed indicators, equipment
Across Space, Time & Mind
for testing torpedoes, instruments, parts of a torpedo, a
Is astronomy your hobby? Are you fascinated by stories
model of the first Whitehead torpedo, as well as a model of a
about the Universe? Then head to the city’s Astronomi-
launching station and numerous screenings. Why? Because
Rijeka is the city where the torpedo was invented! O pen by cal Centre where each Wednesday the digital planetarium
prior arangement. B-1, Željezničko skladište, Žabica shows the film “SEEING! A Photon’s Journey Across Space,
4Q40/20kn, www.muzej-rijeka.hr. Everyday. 06.06 - Time & Mind” in English. Groups of 8 or more, to see differ-
ent films that Centre offers in more than 10 languages, can
pre-book at 051/455 700, via e-mail astronomski-centar-ri-
06.06 - 04.09 » Marc Chagall – Colours of
jekas@rijekasport.hr or FB Page Astronomski centar Rijeka.
Love
QThe Rijeka Astronomical Center, Sveti Križ 33.
What a bumper event in the heart of Rijeka with visitors able
to see 93 of Chagall’s works, including lithographs, copper
art, works on wood and other drawings. The exhibits range 26.08 - 30.08 » The 17th Liburnia Film Fes-
from his early 20s to mid-80s and depict his creative love tival
for homeland, origin, religion, spirituality, and more.QF‑2, One festival that uncovers a huge slate of Croatian docu-
Kortil, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 37 70 65. mentaries made over the last year or so. Over 2500 visitors
flocked to open-air stage in Opatija last year, to get a first-
14.06 - 31.08 » New time, second half hand view. Workshops, lectures and concerts add to the
Due to the small space of the Rijeka City Museum it is soon event with voting awards handed out by the jury and audi-
to be relocated to the former administrative palace of the ence alike! All films are with English subtitles and it’s a free
sugar refinery and Benčić factory in less than a year. The entry for all screenings.Qwww.liburniafilmfestival.com.
exhibition depicts the museum’s journey by using items
from several of its collections which are testimony of the 10.09 - 14.09 » History Film Festival
city’s past three centuries of urban life (paintings, sculp- Each day we discover something unknown from the
tures, postcards, clothing, photographs, the biographies past, from unravelling hidden truths, conspiracies,
of famous locals) and more. QCity Museum of Rijeka, through to moments in war and so on. This festival is
Trg Riccarda Zanelle 1/1, www.muzej-rijeka.hr. here to appraise new historical documentary films pro-
duced both independently and via official TV companies.
12.07 - 08.09 » Vlado Martek: Multi-title Thematic conferences, seminars, film author workshops
exhibition and more can be experienced as it’s the perfect gath-
The first retrospective of 300 art works of mixed genres ering for film buffs and those in the industry. Qwww.
by Vlado Martek in Rijeka. The exhibition leaps from one historyfilmfestival.com.
Vlado Martek_what is art, The Modern and Contemporary Art Museum Rijeka
One of the central planks of Rijeka 2020 is the Sweet & Salt
strand, a programme which focuses on a particular post-
industrial strip of the city and looks at ways of bringing new
functions to”lost” urban spaces,nurturing new ideas in ur-
ban planning at the same time. The project will continue
a process that has already begun, that of transforming the
area beside the river Riječina and the Molo Longo pier into
a lively pedestrian strip.
Leader of the Sweet & Salt strand Idis Turato has invited
the cream of the Croatian art and design world to come
up with ideas for 2020, although it is as yet unclear which
of them will actually get built. Turato himself has already
made a profound mark on the Adriatic architectural scene,
designing (with erstwhile studio partner Saša Randić) the
quite extraordinary Museum of the Apoxyomenos in Mali
Lošinj. Despite being housed inside a 19th-century villa,
the museum boasts an almost space-age interior, with the
statue of the Apoxyomenos itself housed inside a white
capsule. Randić and Turato were also responsible for the
amazing Fran Krsto Frankopan elementary school on the
island of Krk, together with its futuristic sports hall and ac-
companying public plaza. Turato’s work for private clients
– the boldly cubist Villa Gumno on Krk, and the audaciously Museum of Apoxyomenos, photo by Bosnić&Dorotić
14 Rijeka
Dobrinj In Your
Tourist Board Pocket
Archives rijeka.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
O’Hara
From Zagreb to Rijeka, this pizza franchise is booming
Quick Eats
with their one-of-a-kind authentic Napolitano style piz- Bar Bar
zas. The entire process has ‘Naples’ written all over it, Recently opened and has since become a fav gathering
many of the ingredients derive from the city as do the for city folk. Bar Bar is all about attention to detail with Ro-
recipes (including the making of the dough). The oven is man stone and cast iron prevalent when it comes to in-
one of a kind and the entire process is open for visitors to terior, then there is the morning till night addition; coffee
watch the pizza makers in action. Get a real tasty of Italy with croissants to lots of small snacks of fresh ingredients.
at O’Hara’s. QRiva 12a, tel. (+385-51) 56 88 88, www. There is meat tartare, tuna with veggies, salmon and more.
facebook.com/ohararijeka. Open 08:00-24:00. Wines are aplenty and they have ‘take & share cards’ as
memoirs! A true package!QD‑1/2, Pod Kaštelom 3, tel.
Pampas (+385-) 099 331 72 08, www.bar-bar.eu. Open Mon
A good place to grab a pizza after visiting the pilgrim 10:00-24:00; Tue 10:00-02:00; Wed 10:00-24:00; Thu
shrine and fort up on Trsat. A pretty location.QV‑2, Slavka 10:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-03:00; closed Sun. (8 - 30 kn).
Krautzeka 49, tel. (+385-51) 21 90 58/091 219 05 80. APBSJWK i
Open 10:00-23:30. (40 - 70 kn). NPGXTBS
VW Buffet Cocco
Small, yet lively and vibrant best describe this busy eatery
Pizzeria Bracera come lunchtime. Here, one can taste real local homemade
A pizzeria owned by the same people as Zlatna Školjka op- food as if it comes from mama’s own kitchen. Your waiter
posite - one of Rijeka’s finest dining rooms. Bracera has a will be the owner who really shines in making your experi-
rustic, seafaring personality. Its crusty pizzas from the clay ence a winner.QB‑2, Uski prolaz 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 26
oven are among the best in town, and they do great big 50/(+385-) 091 196 02 53. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-
crispy salads.QC‑2, Kružna ulica 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 24 15:00; closed Sun. (35 - 110 kn). AGXTBW
98, www.pizzeria-bracera.com.hr. Open 11:00-24:00.
(32 - 95kn). APGXTB6W GRAD kavana&bar
Situated on the waterfront just short of the ferry termi-
nal, Grad is one of those all-purpose café-bars that are a
www.inyourpocket.com good place to grab a bite to eat or drink coffee during the
Photo byfacebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket
Višnja Arambašić Summer 2019 17
Restaurants
Kastav Krk
Mala riba Bracera
This delightful restaurant serves tapas the ‘Kvarner way’ This lively restaurant a short walk from Malinska’s seafront
where you can devour crab, snails, fish, squid, and olives… is worth seeking out for great quality seafood and grilled
in small combinations. Though the menu is based mainly meat dishes, and swift service with a smile. A great choice
around fish, meat lovers are never left out. It’s on the main is a plate of fresh fried “small fish” – sardines or similar.
road between Matulji and Kastav!QTometići 33a, Kastav, Vitamin rich, and easy on your pocket!QKvarnerska 1,
tel. (+385-51) 27 79 45, www.mala-riba.com. Open Malinska , Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 87 00, www.konoba-
11:30-23:00. (70 - 110 kn). APGXTB6W bracera.com. Open 12:00-23:00. (45 - 300kn). NP
GXTBW
Kostrena Konoba Nada
Kostrenka If Vrbnik is renowned far and wide for great cuisine and
Hidden away in Kostrena just east of Rijeka, this is a real fantastic wine, then Nada is one of the institutions that
find for those prepared to rove far and wide in search of flies the flag. Choose the tiny konoba downstairs or the
good local food. The emphasis is on seafood (with trad spacious restaurant (which attracts coachloads of foodie
inexpensive dishes like whitebait rubbing shoulders with pilgrims - call to reserve in advance).QGlavača 22, Vrbnik,
the finest white fish), although there are plenty of meaty Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 70 65, www.nada-vrbnik.hr. April
alternatives, including regional specialities like žgvacet - October Open 12:00 - 23:00. (135 - 175kn). APG
(lamb stew) from the island of Krk. And there’s a full range XTBW
of pizzas to keep all family members happy. Reserve time
for the lemon-meringue pie.QRožići 3, Kostrena, tel. Konoba Ribice
(+385-51) 28 31 79, www.kostrenka.com/. Open 12:00- As the name “little fish” suggests, this is the place you
23:00; closed Tue. (45-110kn). APBSW should settle down for a traditional meal of small fried fish
www.inyourpocket.com
Stancija Kovačići Archives
Šanpjer
Terrace only, this small marina venue was possibly the
highlight of a recent weekend break. Generous portions
for what you’re paying (given that island prices tend to be
higher than normal anyway), and there wasn’t a scrap of
food sent back to the kitchen. Staff are exceptionally help-
ful and polite, and service is prompt. This reviewer had
octopus salad and breaded shrimp, and could easily have
had a second plate it was that good. An ideal venue to
break-up an evening out, or to start one, or to end one…
QŠetalište kralja Petra Krešimira 4, Rab, tel. (+385-51)
72 41 83. Open 10:00-23:30. (40 - 160kn). PTUB
SJ6W
Volosko
Konoba Tramerka
Just up the steps from Volosko’s twee harbour, Tramerka
is a very different kettle of fish from the chic seafront res-
taurants, with its secret grotto-like interior and benches
strewn outside in the alley. Seafood rules the menu, and
the owner or waiter will often advise you on what you
should order - based on what came fresh out of the sea
that day. A lot of imagination goes into the starters and
desserts, so come prepared for a three-courser.QDr. A.
Mohorovičića 15, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 17 07, www.
konoba-tramerka.com/en/home/. Open 17:00-23:00;
Sun 12:00-18:00; closed Mon. (50 - 200 kn). APB
W
Plavi podrum
A high class restaurant in Volosko, more traditional than Le
Mandrać. An excellent fish menu and wine list - the owner
was Sommelier of the Year in 2001 and 2002. Although the
interior is very smart, the terrace is nowhere near as stylish.
QObala Frane Supila 12, Volosko-Opatija, tel. (+385-51)
70 12 23/(+385-) 098 25 75 73, www.plavipodrum.com.
Open 12:00-23:00. (60 - 180 kn). APGXTB
Photo by Višnja Arambašić SW
Local flavour,
local dishes...
Keep tradition with cuisine
Gelateria Corso
Light and delicious cakes - some of the
best in town, we’d say. Great coffee too.
A perfect terrace for a spot of people-
watching on Korzo, and a bright and
cheerful upstairs seating area with a
view of the decorative buildings op-
posite.QD‑2, Korzo 20, tel. (+385-51)
30 19 45/(+385-) 098 992 59 87. Open
07:00-02:00. NPGXTBJW
Piko
PIKO bakery offers daily fresh bread,
pastries, sandwiches and lots of snacks.
A pleasant ambience and always fresh
products will make your day in Ri-
jeka more enjoyable.QKorzo 38b, tel.
(+385-51) 58 60 01, www.pikrijeka.hr.
Open 07:00-18:00; Sat 07:00-13:00;
closed Sun. APGXTBJW
Opatija Coffee
Café Wagner
Overlooking the sea at the very east end of the beach
is this traditional and classy kavana – a coffee house
in the Austrian style. A firm favourite with the fur-
coat brigade who like to disport themselves on Wag-
ner’s crescent-shaped terrace whatever the weather.
QMaršala Tita 109 (Hotel Millennium), tel. (+385-
51) 20 20 71, www.amadriapark.com/hr. Open
07:00-24:00. APGXTBLW
Palme
Enjoy the ceilings and bouffant plasterwork in this
lofty, Viennese-style coffee house with comfortable,
modern furnishings. The cakes are phenomenal! Treat
yourself to mulled wine and special doughnuts (kraf-
ne) at Carnival time.QUlica Maršala Tita 108 (Hotel
Bristol), tel. (+385-51) 70 63 18, www.hotel-bristol.
hr. Open 07:00-23:00. APGXTBW
Tunel
Located next to the car park at Školjić and set in a real tun-
nel, this is a heaven for all fans of alternative culture - laid
back jazz, blues, funk, soul, rock and electronic music,
you’ll find exhibitions, fairs of handcrafts of all sorts here.
The cool interior has a small stage for live jam sessions and
concerts.”QE‑1, Školjić 12. Open Mon 09:00-02:00; Tue,
Wed 09:00-24:00; Thu 09:00-02:00; Fri 09:00-03:00; Sat
19:00-03:00; closed Sun. ANPXTB6
Pubs
Celtic Caffe Bard
A lovely little bar right outside St Vitus’s Church, with a
cosy split-level interior filled with off-beat artworks – and
not a TV screen or replica soccer shirt in sight. Connois-
seurs of a good pint will be kept happy by Carinthia’s finest
Hirter beer on tap and a large number of speciality ales in
bottles. With a music policy that runs through blues, jazz,
sixties soul and classic reggae, Bard appeals to a slightly
older crowd who like a drink and who appreciate good
music but don’t want to shout over the din of top-40
drivel.QE‑2, Trg Grivica 6b, tel. (+385-51) 21 52 35. Open
08:00-24:00; Sat 09:00-24:00; closed Sun. NPX
TBJ6W
Phanas Pub
A big hit with the local crowd, Phanas plays music from
rock to commercial dance, and is the place to rub shoul-
ders with the city’s party people. A rather luxuriously ex-
Three Monkeys Archives
ecuted traditional dark wood pub with a nautical feel, with
a huge bar, jet-setty drinks plus a few snacks.QD‑3, Ivana
Zajca 9, tel. (+385-) 091 926 48 01. Open 07:00-24:00; Fri,
Sat 07:00-06:00. APXTEJW
Public Pub
The perfect place to add to a pub crawl is the ‘Public Pub’,
located in the heart of town with the terrace facing the
popular Korzo Street and St. Barbara’s Square. The café
and pub, dubbed all in one, is prrrrfect to start off your day
with coffee and then end it with a refreshing beer, wine,
cocktails or beverage of choice. Fridays and Saturdays is
having live DJs playing festive tunes for all generations.
QTrg svete Barbare 5a, tel. (+385-) 091 242 42 22. Open
07:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00; Sun 08:00-24:00.
NPTEJ6W
River pub
With a slightly older crowd, a nice woodsy interior, a great
deck out back and music that inspires conversation and in-
Three Monkeys Archives
ebriation, River Pub is one of the most fun places to enjoy a
facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2019 31
Wine bars
kod Zajca wine&coffee bar
Seeking local produce? See the very best of
Croatian wines at reasonable prices. With live
music on Wednesdays and Fridays, and pre-
sentations of Croatian wine makers on Thurs-
days, this is the perfect place for somewhat
of a different day out.QD‑3, Verdijeva 7a, tel.
(+385-51) 31 31 10. Open 07:00-00:00; Fri,
Sat 07:00-02:00; Sun 08:00-23:00. NP
XTBEJW
Galleries
Bruketa 2
The Bruketa 2 Gallery is a new showroom for the little
Bruketa gallery (Mala galerija) which also promotes gifted
young and established artists and is situated over the
Riječina river in the Hotel Neboder.QF‑2, Strossmayerova
1, tel. (+385-51) 33 54 03, www.mala-galerija.hr. Open
by prior arrangement.
Kortil
An exhibition space within the House of Culture on Sušak.
QF‑2, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 37 70 65. Open
10:00 - 22:00. Admission free.
Mali salon
A great exhibition space for the Rijeka Museum of Con-
temporary and Modern Art on Korzo.QD‑2, Korzo 24, tel.
(+385-51) 49 26 11, www.mmsu.hr. Open 12:00-21:00;
Sat, Sun 14:00-21:00; closed Mon. Admission free.
Principij Gallery
Exhibition space of Rijeka Photo Club.QE‑2, Pod voltun 4,
tel. (+385-) 095 913 17 69, www.fotoklubrijeka.hr. Open
10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed
Sun. Admission free.
Croatian facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket
National Theatre Ivan pl. Zajc Summer 2019 35
Sightseeing
Rijeka
To:
Trieste from 9€
ing building next to the Capuchin church (by the coach its monumental main entrance, paved central courtyard,
station), the so-called Ploech Palace, was the home of and basilica are a jewel of Roman history.QD‑2, Ul.Stara
Annibale Ploech, a chief engineer and shareholder in the vrata 3.
torpedo company, and his wife – Whitehead’s daughter.
QM‑3, Jože Vlahovića 19. City Market (Velika tržnica)
Together with the nearby National Theatre and its park, the
Train Station (Željeznički kolodvor) Modello Palace and numerous residential, commercial and
The elegant, low-lying classical form of the train station industrial buildings, the City Market forms a super urban
is important to Industrial Rijeka not only for its architec- architectural complex. At its core are beautiful art nouveau
tural value, but also since its building heralded a boom in market halls, especially the lively fish market, which is in an
trade for the growing port, connecting it with nearby Lju- imposing Liberty style building with charming mouldings
bljana, Karlovac and Zagreb, and Vienna and Budapest in by famous Venetian sculptor Urbano Bottasso of the poor
the heart of the mighty empire beyond. Built by Budapest crustaceans destined soon to hit your plate.
architect Ferenc Pfaff in 1889 and opened in 1891, there is Don’t miss the city’s central market if you love to get the
a story (not true) told by the people of Füzesabony in Hun- feel for real local atmosphere. Stalls piled high with fresh
gary that the plans for the stations in that city and Rijeka local produce and the cheery banter of traders and their
were mixed up, so Rijeka got the better one. Pfaff built 14 customers are one of the everyday pleasures of this part of
stations in the Hungarian lands, and all those which sur- the world. The market is a good place for speciality delica-
vive today are listed buildings.QA‑2, Petra Krešimira 5. tessen, and the lively fish market at the end closest to the
sea is a must if you have the means to cook your own! The
pleasant streets of the market area are lined with fast food
Landmarks takeaways and inexpensive konobas for a quick and au-
Archeological Park – the Tarsatica thentic lunch – see the “Restaurants” section - plus a few
Principia pleasant cafés with leafy terraces.QE‑3, Verdieva.
The newly renovated Archaeological Park has opened in
2014 in Rijeka’s Old Town, at Julije Klović Square. It is an Hurricane! (Parobrod Uragan)
amazing site that shows the ancient history of the city Uragan is the name of the big old ship that looms at Molo
of Rijeka and holds the remains of the Tarsatic Principia, Longo, the long breakwater that runs parallel to Rijeka’s
the 3rd century Roman military command that used to famous Riva. She started life in 19th century Hamburg,
be a part of the Roman defence system. The remains of where she worked as a cleaner in the harbour until she
two states between the World Wars. Rijeka fell under the The Rijeka Astronomical Center (As-
jurisdiction of Italy, and died a death due to competition tronomski Centar Rijeka)
from the larger Italian ports, while Sušak prospered as Star gazers and those passionate about astronomy - look
the main port of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slo- no further as you’re about to enter the first astronomical
venes. Take a walk through the atmospheric streets and center in Croatia. As it is positioned in the city, up on the
you come to the neighbourhood of Pećine that lies on hill of Sveti Križ, getting there by public transport is easy
the shore. It was the elite residential area during Austro- and available via bus line 7a from the city centre (Delta). It
Hungarian rule, and it’s worth a wander. The Ružić villa, is set in a building built in 1941 as a military fortress.
where members of the political and literary families Ružić Subsequently, in 2001, Rijeka’s first observatory was es-
and Mažuranić lived, is particularly noted (Pećine no. 5). tablished. A planetarium hall was installed into an already
Industrialist Đuro Ružić was responsible for building many existing fortress in 2009. The Astronomical Center Rijeka
of Sušak’s fine houses. His relative by marriage, Ivana Brlić- now encompasses an observatory, planetarium and other
Mažuranić, was an author of much-loved children’s books. additional contents for learning more about astronomy.
In the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural monu- During summer, every Wednesday at 20:00 there is a spe-
ment, a beautifully illustrated English language edition of cial film screening for foreign tourists in English language
her book of fairy stories “Tales of Long Ago” is kept. You and stargazing with the telescope in observatory every
can see a beautifully illustrated edition in English trans- Saturday at 22:00 (depends on the weather). For detailed
lation in the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural opening times and schedule of planetarium shows and
monument.QQ/S‑3/4. observatory please call (+385 51) 45 57 00 or check sched-
ule here. More information and photos can be found on
The Milkmaid (Mljekarica) Facebook Fan Page Astronomski centar Rijeka, so foreign
and domestic tourists can send messages, comment and
By the Ritz café in Užarska street, there’s a statue of an el-
like as well.QSveti Križ 33, tel. (+385-51) 45 57 00, www.
derly lady bent under the weight of the milk churns she’s
astronomski-centar-rijeka.hr. Admission 20/10 kn.
carrying. This is the statue in honour of the milkmaids
from Grobnik (an area in the hills above the city). This was The Rijeka Tunnel
where the dairy cows that gave the people of Rijeka their Military turmoil leading up to World War II saw the con-
daily “pinta” were kept and milked, and the milk was car- struction of fortifications, bunkers and tunnels in Rijeka.
ried down by fair maidens as you see here. Grobnik is still Now, the first military tunnel has opened for visitors
famous for it’s cheese – grobnički sir – try it if you see it on with the entrance next to the Cathedral of St. Vitus and it
the menu.QE‑2, Užarska. stretches below the Old Town to the Dolac Primary School.
facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2019 41
Sightseeing
The 330-m long tunnel still has some original markings
and was even used in the Homeland War as a shelter.QO‑
pen 10:00-20:00.
The Nikola Hosta Park (Park Nikole The Treasury and Gallery of Our Lady of
Hosta) Trsat (Riznica i galerija Svetište Gospe
Once part of gardens belonging to the 18th century An- Trsatske)
droch villa, just across the street from the Judicial Palace The Franciscan Church of Our Lady of Trsat is the oldest, and
and up the stairs. It was owned by city luminaries such as one of the most popular shrines to the Virgin Mary in Croa-
Andrija Adamić, Ivan Ciotta and eventually Archduke Jo- tia – no mean boast. It has a rich collection of religious art
seph, who loved exotic plants and had them sent from all fitting this status. The Frankopan counts, who did so much
over the world for these gardens, which he established at to build the church and fortifications here, were generous
the beginning of the 19th century. On rocky terrain and on donors to the collection, followed by other Croatian noble
several levels, the park, with its sculptures and fountains families and members of the Austro-Hungarian imperial
managed to achieve the look of an English garden – it’s dynasty. Treasures include the 15th century reliquary of Bar-
rather lost its former splendour these days. The villa is now bara Frankopan and a 16th century silver statue of the Moth-
used by the State Archives in Rijeka. The park is named af- er of God. The art gallery and chapel also have wonderful
ter the Austrian botanist who helped plant it – the very collections of religious art.QU‑1, Frankopanski trg 12, tel.
same who discovered the genus hosta, we suspect.QD‑1, (+385-51) 45 29 00, www.trsat-svetiste.com. Open 08:00-
Žrtava fašizma. 11:30,14:00-17:00. Admission free.
facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2019 43
Croatian Cultural Dictionary
Learning a foreign language is not only a linguistic adven-
ture. Whichever language you choose, climbing the ladder
of proficiency unfolds in almost the same way. Everything
is great while you dabble at the beginners’ level and the
words have their exact equivalents in both languages.
Grammar, phrasality, pronunciation, all this awaits a few
rungs up. Master it and you can actually speak the lingo.
The biggest challenge, however, is getting entangled in the
web of (obscure) cultural concepts – a treasure revealed
only to the advanced students.
Croatian business
conversations
This subheading may sound misleading because the con-
Photo by Višnja Arambašić
cepts that follow are everything but action-packed. Read
on and you’ll unearth a peculiar quality in the Croatian job where minimum work effort is required and the assess-
attitudes to work: ‘easy does it’ is our local version of the ment of efficiency is almost non-existent. To an uhljeb, this
Taoistwu weiprinciple (doing without doing). is crucial because they are either slacking off or not the
right person for the job at all. Here’s the paradox: an uhljeb
1 | Tribalo bi, a Dalmatian version of trebalo bi, literally- will never call themselves an uhljeb. It is the people around
means ‘one ought to’. Yes, it’s important to emphasise the them who whinge about uhljebs, which brings us to an-
subject-less state of this expression. No one really knows other peculiar phenomenon: complaining (at all costs).
who this one is, which is both polite and convenient. Let’s
say a wife says to her husband ‘tribalo bi iznit smeće’ [one 4 | Jamrati comes from the German ‘jammern’, which
ought to take out the rubbish], she is politely nudging – means to complain, moan, lament. Although the verb is
the husband, of course. He can simply reply: ‘ah, tribalo bi’ more common in continental Croatia, the activity is popu-
[one ought to,indeed]. He registers the need for the task lar throughout the country. Jamrati has a specific quality
but he hasn’t made any promises. He’ll do it but not just yet. to it – it’s complaining for its own sake. If a local begins to
A more brusque version of tribalo bi is used by speakers of moan about something over coffee, don’t try to offer solu-
other dialects when they want to convey sarcasm. For ex- tions to their woes. The purpose of jamrati is to deepen the
ample, it’s been months and those boxes in the basement bond between the speakers. Someone may jamrati to you
are still waiting for your attention. ‘Tribalo bi’, you exhale, about losing a job to an uhljeb, in which case the appropri-
knowing well you won’t get to itany time soon. ate reaction is to just listen and agree. Empathise, take their
side, but refrain from offering a constructive solution. The
2 | Kako ćemo – lako ćemo translates as ‘What shall we camaraderie forged through jamrati is one of the strongest
do? We’ll manage’. It’s a warm, reaffirming attitude that you and can even result in professional benefits.
would use to soothe a friend in distress. Saying this reminds
them that every problem has a solution, and that it usu-
ally shows up after a few drinks – when you let go. In this Croatian leisure talk
context, ‘the managing’ reduces stress. However, you can Croatian people value their free time and they love shar-
find yourself on the (stress) receiving end too. Imagine your ing it with family and friends. When foreigners see so much
work depends on the promptness of others. Those others lounging around, they immediately assume Croatians are
that just took a beer break to blow out the steam. Now, this lazy. This is far from the truth. Croats just have a good life-
laid-back letting go is rubbing you the wrong way up. If work balance underpinned by a few crucial attitudes.
you try to speed things up, you’ll just get the same wis-
dom recited back to you: kako ćemo – lako ćemo. So chill, 5 | Tko to može platit meaning ‘who can pay for this’ is
everything will eventually get done, with or without you usually exclaimed when someone is moved by an extraor-
stressing. dinary experience. This can be as simple as a glass of wine
during an especially beautiful sunset. What most Croatians
3 | Uhljeb, a single word that explains many Croatian para- believe is that some things/experiences cannot be bought,
doxes. Its stem, hljeb, is an archaic word for bread, so a broad which is in stark contrast to the Western slogan that ‘eve-
translation would be ‘a person whose daily bread is secured rything has a price tag’. Having time for your friends in the
for good’. Now the question is: how is this even possible? It middle of the day is a tko to može platit experience. And this
is, because an uhljeb makes it so. Usually through political is precisely what creates a healthier and more meaningful
or family connections, an uhljeb will find a cushy, well-paid outlook on life.
A short drive or boat ride to the far side of the bay of Valun
brings you to the hamlet of the same name, a collection
of picturesque red-roofed houses straggling up the hillside
away from the water, with a wide shingle beach that's an
absolute delight to bathe from. It was here that the Valun
Tablet was found - thought to be the oldest Glagolitic in-
scription in Croatia. There's a simple campsite and a couple
of pleasant restaurants.
They say that location is the key – and it is evident that the
key to Opatija’s success is its position at the foot of Mount
Učka, which protects Opatija from the North and West with
the intruding cold air, whilst the islands of Krk, Cres and
Lošinj protect Opatija from the East and South as they devi-
ate the winds that come in from the open sea.
Over the years Opatija has been labelled as the perfect get-
away, a place to relax and seek leisure through its natural
surroundings and tourist attractions. These days this gor-
geous coastal village is undergoing something of a boom
in spa and wellness tourism, with almost every hotel in
the 4-to-5 star bracket now offering indoor pools, saunas,
steam-baths, massage rooms, and a full range of state-of-
the-art beauty treatments. With major European centers
such as Munich, Vienna and Milan located within a 500
kilometer radius, Opatija is one of the most accessible year-
round health-and-lifestyle resorts in Europe.
Volosko
Volosko is the oldest of the settlements along the Opatija
Riviera and it still retains its sleepy fishing-village charm,
with a cluster of stone houses scrambling up the hillside
above a sheltered little port. Volosko’s strong fishing tradi-
tion may help to explain why it boasts some of the best around the fourteenth century Church of St George, and
seafood restaurants in the country. A fistful of high-class a surrounding girdle of Italianate nineteenth century vil-
eateries are clustered around the Mandrač, the sheltered las – many of which have been renovated and now serve
inner harbour which provides moorings for small boats. as guesthouses or boutique hotels. A short walk south of
Lovran is the lovely cove of Medveja, the site of a crescent
Ičići pebbly beach.
Pronounced as (itch-i-chi), this coastal town which is part
of the Opatija Rivijera has a true connection to the sea and Kastav
mainland. For one it has been awarded the ‘Blue Flag’ for There’s no better way to see the entire Opatija Riviera
over a decade, it also has one of the best harbours in Croa- then from Kastav, a hilltop town northwest of Rijeka. The
tia with 283 berths and on the opposite end, Ičići is a won- view from the battlements of this fortified town is simply
der for hiking enthusiasts as there are numerous marked breathtaking, with Mount Učka to the right, the islands of
trails leading up to Mount Učka. Action packed sports the Kvarner Bay to the left and the coastal settlements of
camps are available with top quality restaurants and cafes Volosko and Opatija in the middle distance.
to help wind down.
Opatija Tourist Information Center
Lovran QMaršala Tita 128, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 10,
Sitting in a tiny little pocket six kilometers south of Opatija www.visitopatija.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00
is Lovran, the most picturesque of the Riviera’s resorts, - 15:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 -
with a historic centre of medieval stone houses grouped 21:00.
50 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com
Kvarner
families with kids. One beach close to the centre includes
an enclosed play area with all kinds of bouncy attractions
for children (there is a small charge for entry).
Crikvenica’s old centre makes for a pleasant stroll. See
the monument made from an old olive mill stone in use
until 1893, take a walk along the stream and through the
gardens surrounding the monastery. The Aquarium
(Vinodolska 8, tel. +385 51 24 10 06. Open 09:00 - 20:00.
July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 35/20kn) is
beautifully laid out and really fascinating.
Nearby Selce is a small port a little further south, rather
similar in character as a resort, with good beaches and
plenty of sports and entertainment opportunities. Both
resorts are just a short hop from the highway from Rijeka.
Novi Vinodolski
This ancient town lies at the southern end of the Vinodol
valley - literally “Wine Valley” - a fertile rural area dotted with
fortified settlements founded in prehistoric times, protect-
ing the coastal strip from barbarian invasion. The towns of
Drivenik, Grižane and Bribir which lie along the valley were
once important centres during feudal times, and all have
incredible castles. If you drive, bike or hike through the
Wine Valley, you’ll be well rewarded.
Weekend Getaways
Explore Surroundings and escape
the crowds
Weekend Getaways
Brseč untouched in the country – mostly thanks to the some-
A mediaeval town built on a 157m-high cliff overlook- what inhospitable climate; it has an average temperature
ing the sea 20km from Opatija. The majority of buildings of 12.60 in July. The park is a haven for deer, bears, wildcats
date from the 17th century, while the town’s fortifications and lynx (ris) – from which the park takes its name. Wolves
and bell tower are from the early middle ages. From Brseč and wild boar also put in an occasional appearance.
there’s a splendid view of the islands of Cres, Unije and Su- The Information office for the park is in Crni Lug, a small
sak, as well as the of Sisol, southernmost peak of Mount village that perches at 724m above sea-level (no mean feat
Učka. A walking trail leads from the town direct to Sisol. with the sea around 25km away) and 12km from Delnice
– the main regional town. From the villages of Razloge
Museum of Apoxyomenos or Kupari, small winding paths can be followed up to the
The island of Mali Lošinj is an attraction to tourists pri- source of the Kupa river. From the jagged karst the water
marily because of its majestic bays and lush green veg- wells up into a lake and then tumbles downwards through
etation. Now it has another formidable tourist offer in the the ‘valley of the butterflies’. QBijela Vodica 48, Crni Lug,
Museum of Apoxyomenos. Apoxy who you may ask? It is www.np-risnjak.hr.
home to ‘Apoxyomenos’, the bronzed statue of a young
athlete founded in 1998 and at a depth of 45 meters in Thalassotherapia Opatija
the vicinity of Mali Lošinj. It is an extremely well-preserved Health and wellness go hand in hand with Opatija and the
and beautifully crafted Greek work of great artistic value Thalassotherapia Medical Center has the complete package
presumed to date back to the 2nd or 1st century BC. The to suit almost all of your health needs. As their offer contin-
Croatian Apoxyomenos is a 192cm-high statue, set on a ues to expand, the center now includes the application of
well-preserved original plinth of a height of 10 cm. It por- contemporary, aesthetic interventions ensured under the
trays a young athlete who has just completed his bout or highest medical standards. It is possible to remove or allevi-
exercise, thus simulating a moment of relaxation, when ate almost all aesthetic flaws of the face and body and you
he is about to clean his body of oil, sweat and dust (Gr. get to stay in a lovely old Opatija villa.QMaršala Tita 188/1,
apoxyesis), and this is why it is called the Apoxyomenos. Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 20 26 00, www.thalassotherapia-
The Kvarner Palace is home to the Museum of Apoxyo- opatija.com. Polyclinic Open 08:00 - 15:00; closed Sun,
menos. The exhibition display is defined by nine scenes Sat. Wellness Open 09:00 - 21:00. A
and transition zones shaped by time and space, and ac-
companied by audio background. The final room is all The islet of Košljun
white with Apoxyomenos the solitary hero. Thereafter, The search for tranquillity stops right here at the islet of
the Kaleidoscope Room offers a resplendent lookout of Košljun, located 750 meters from Punat at the Krk island.
various sequences from the Lošinj harbour with the use The miniature island takes about 1- 2 hours to see and is
of mirrors. This year the museum earned a Special Com- best known for the Franciscan monastery which thrives till
mendation in the European Museum of the Year Awards this day. A Benedictine abbey was built there in the 11th
(EMYA). EMYA is dedicated to promoting excellence in century and was then extended and turned into a mon-
innovation and public quality in museum practice, en- astery in the 15th century. The Benedictines presented
couraging networking and the exchange of ideas and sus- Košljun under the motto: ‘Pray and work’ which is visible
tainable best practices within the sector.QRiva lošinjskih on the front door of the monastery, while the Franciscan’s
kapetana 13, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 73 42 60, www. saluted with ‘Peace and Good’ on the way out – written, of
muzejapoksiomena.hr. June 15 - September 15 Open course, in the ancient Croatian ‘Glagolitic script!’
09:00 - 22:00. Admission 115/40 kn. J Franciscan monks still live and reside there and the islet
has a museum with an ethnographic collection contain-
Nature Park Mount Učka ing numerous items produced by Krk fishermen and farm-
The forested slopes of Mount Učka offer a variety of ways ers, as well as local folk costumes. The library has around
to spend your free time in the open air. Učka is a nature 30,000 books which includes some world rarities. Getting
park with 50 hiking trails and 8 mountain bike trails. The to the island is only via organized boat tours and once
park boasts a wealth of wildlife and offers some of the there, take out your treasure maps and begin the search
best views around: you can see the entire Kvarner gulf for the six chapels around the island…
with its islands laid out at your feet, and on a clear day the
view south extends as far as the Velebit mountain range. The Memorial Centre Lipa Remembers
Qwww.pp-ucka.hr. (Memorijalni centar Lipa pamti)
In April, 2015, the Memorial Centre ‘Lipa Remembers’
Risnjak National Park opened its doors to the public for the very first time. Lipa,
Glowering above the city of Rijeka, in the densely forested is a picturesque village of the Liburnian settlement Kras
Gorski Kotar region, are the primeval forests, mountain which is situated 27 kilometres from Rijeka. The Memo-
meadows and karst formed peaks of Risnjak National Park. rial Centre is dedicated to a massacre which took place
This range of mountains, from which can be viewed the on April 30, 1944 when, after only a few hours, Lipa lost
Julian Alps and the Adriatic is by far the wildest and most 269 of its residents, mostly elderly women and children.
Arriving By car
From Italy: E70 motorway to Trieste, look for signs for “Fi-
ume” and route number E61 / local route 7, which crosses
Slovenia and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Route E61 / local road
8 lead you into Rijeka. The signs for the ferry, marked “Tra-
jekt”, are a good orientation point for the centre.
From Slovenia: From Ljubljana follow route number E70
via Vrhnika and Postojna. Join local route 6 through Ilirska
Bistrica. You’ll cross the border at Rupa and join the E61
which drops directly down into Rijeka.
From Zagreb: The E65 / A6 motorway runs directly from
Zagreb to Rijeka. Watch the signs where motorways merge
at Bosiljevo. The motorway toll costs 70kn in one direc-
tion, payable in most currencies and credit cards. If you are
headed to islands take the exit at Oštrovica.
From Split: We recommend taking the new A1 motorway
from Split, turning off at Bosiljevo for the A6 to Rijeka. The
A8 coast road is spectacular, and great if you have plenty
of time, but if you’re in a hurry its sharp bends can be fatal.
Be aware that at weekends in August, traffic in coastal areas
and on the main routes into Croatia can be very heavy. For
the latest traffic information, check out the Croatian Auto-
mobile Club website at www.hak.hr.
Arriving By plane
Rijeka airport (zračna luka Rijeka) near Omišalj on Krk is-
land serves Rijeka and the Kvarner coast. It’s a tiny airport,
but has a bar with sandwiches, a tourist information point,
an ATM, a small duty free shop (open prior to flights), toi-
Rijeka 2020 Archives lets, payphones, a post box, and parking. Getting to town:
Olivari buses take you to Rijeka’s city bus station on Trg
bana Jelačića for 50kn one way. Check with your airline for
Arriving By bus the timetable. Taxis await your hailing outside the airport.
Though small, the long-distance bus station (autobusni Rijeka Airport
kolodvor), right in the city centre, is a real hub and has eve- Rijeka Airport.QHamec 1, Omišalj, Island Krk, tel. (+385-
rything you need. Bus travel is the preferred method of long 51) 84 20 40/(+385-51) 84 12 22, www.rijeka-airport.hr.
distance public transportation: it’s cheap, relatively quick Open 08:00-18:00.
and usually comfortable. A large number of Croatian desti-
nations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign
destinations on all points of the compass. Ticket office: Arriving By train
Open 05:30 - 22:30; tel. 060 88 86 66 (automated service, Rijeka’s train station has all the basic services you need.
press 2 to contact the operator) for reservations and info. Train services are rather slow, but it’s a relaxing and inex-
Outside opening times, you can buy tickets on board, but pensive way to travel. The HŽPP (Croatian Railways) website
during summer it’s best to reserve in advance, or buy online has a good English page featuring ticket prices and con-
http://www.arriva.com.hr/hr-hr/naslovna and get 5% dis- nections for domestic and international routes.
count. Changing money: there are exchange bureaux on Ticket office: In the central lobby you’ll find the ticket
Platform 1 and ATMs by the big church you see there. Left office including the international (međunarodni) and
luggage (garderoba): tel. (+385-51) 56 49 04 the garde- domestic window, Open 05:05 - 20:50, tel. (+385-51) 21
roba is inside the station building and is open 06:00 - 22:00. 13 04. There is a also a ticket machine inside the bureau
Toilets: inside the station. Getting to town: See the water- where you can pay your tickets for domestic routes with
front? Hang a left. The main street Korzo is just behind the a credit card, as well as the option to buy your tickets on-
waterfront buildings. Taxis: There’s a taxi rank at the station, line on www.hzpp.hr or via smart phone application HZPP
or check Arrival & Getting Around for other taxi companies. tickets. Changing money: There are two cash machines en
A B C
A B C
62 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com
Maps & Street Register
Nikole Tesle A-1 Riva P-3 / C-2, D-2 Školjić E-1 Veslarska E-2
Nova Cesta L-2, M-2 Riva boduli D-3 Titov trg F-1 Viktora cara Emina O-2, P-3 / A-1
Nova Ciottina C-1 Ružićeva F-1 Tizianova O-2, P-2 Vinka Benca M-2, N-2
Orlandov gat 3-A Scarpina Q-3 / E-2 Tome Strižića S-2 Viškovo L-1
Osječka N-1, O-2 Senjsko pristanište D-3 Trg Grivica E-1 Vodovodna E-1
Park Nikole Hosta D-1 Slaviše Vajnera Čiče B-1 Trg Ivana Koblera D-2 Vrlije V-1
Park Vladimira Nazora D-1 Slavka Cindrića Q-3, R-3 / F-2 Trg Jurja Klovića D-2 Vukovarska N-2, O-2
Partizanski put U-1 Slavka Krautzeka R-2, S-2 / V-2 Trg Republike Hrvatske D-2 Wenzelova E-3
Pavla Rittera Vitezovića E-2 Splitska C-2 Trg Riječke rezolucije D-2 Zadarska C-2
Pavlinski trg E-2 Stipana konzula Istranina E-2 Trg Svete Barbare E-2 Zagrebačka D-3
Petra Zrinskog U-1 Strohalova D-1, D-1 Trg Viktora Bubnja V-1 Zametska L-2, M-2
Pod kaštelom D-1 Strossmayerova Q-3, R-3/F-1, F-2 Trg 112. brigade hrv. vojske D-2 Zanonova C-2, D-2
Pod voltun D-2 Stube Petra Kružića F-1 / U-2 Trg 128. brigade hrv. vojske D-2 Zaobilaznica G-2, S-1
Pomerio P-3 / B-1, C-1 Studentska B-1 Trninina E-3 Zvonimirova M-2, N-2
Preluk G-2, G-3 Šenoina V-1,V-2 Trpimirova C-2 Žabica B-2, C-2
Prvog maja O-2, P-2 / A-1 Šetalište A. Kačića Miošića F-2 Trsatske stube Petra Kružića F-1 Žrtava fašizma Q-3 / D-1, E-1
Pul vele crikve E-2 Šetalište I. G. Kovačića Q-2, R-3 Uski prolaz B-2
Put Bože Felkera V-1 Šet. Rakovca Q-2, R-2, R-3 / U-2 Uskočka riva E-2
Put V. Valkovića Poleta U-2, V-2 Šet. trinaeste divizije R-3, S-3, T-4 Užarska E-2
Radićeva U-2 Šetalište V. Nazora D-1,E-1 Vatroslava Lisinskog D-3, E-3
Ribarska E-2 Šime Ljubića D-2 Verdieva D-3
D E F
M N O
P Q R
Tower Centar
Rijeka
3
R S T