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GSX250F Junker fix up


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Page 1 of 5 1 2 3 > Last Thread Tools 04-11-2010, 06:46 PM Display Modes #1 GSX250F Junker fix up

Glen
Rider

Thought i might make a general thread of the fixup of my garbage falling apart across. I figure it'll give me something to write about while im bored and can't afford the rego/ctp/insurance to actually ride it . Since buying it ive had to / have to fix:

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Join Date: Oct 2010 Posts: 433 Location: NSW Rep Power: 63

'91 Suzuki Across

- New sprockets x2 and chain classes for 0-3 year olds www.the-musical-playroom.com - New Fork seals x2 - New head gasket (Blasting coolant Motorcycle Exhausts out the filler cap) Motorcycle Exhausts for Cruisers. Fast Shipping in 7 Business Days! - New water pump and hoses (Still www.CruiserCustomizing.com dumping coolant into the oil.. urhg) - Valve clearances - All the filters plugs, brake pads servicable stuff etcetc - Rip out the loom and do it all over again - Find about 50 billion obscure parts typically missing from a half built bike (Solenoids, buttons, freak screws i never knew existed.. ) - New fuel pump, filters lines Ill probably do a few guides n stuff when i get round to them and list them in this post, Cause i find them helpful when i do find them and there isnt alot for these anymore vs a cbr250 say. ---------------------------------------------------------------------Guides - Adjusting Valve Clearances http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/for...ad.php?t=11748 - Replacing Head Gasket http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/for...89&postcount=3 ---------------------------------------------------------------------And a token pic of it when i first picked it up. What horrors lurk beneath (a heck of a lot of them apparently lol)

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http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11922

29/04/2012

GSX250F Junker fix up - Aussie Street Bikes

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Last edited by Glen; 05-11-2010 at 08:30 AM..

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04-11-2010, 06:57 PM

#2 Fuel pump bracket

Glen
Rider

Yesterdays effort; The original fuel pump was haemorrhaging fuel everywhere, So it had to get replaced. The previous owner was nice enough to give me a new $150 one but its tons bigger then the last one and didnt fit at all in the stock mount. So it had to get moved to sit a little further up and inward in the gap between the two frame rails so the fairing can fit over it.

Join Date: Oct 2010 Posts: 433 Location: NSW Rep Power: 63

Take some 3mm aluminium i found in a dumpster and angle grinder it out. some CAD design in work here. Cardboard aided design

'91 Suzuki Across

Shove it in the mill and drill the holes and square the edges up.

http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11922

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So far so good

Back to the mill and chuck in a nice SPEED HOLE

Need to make some spacers to keep the bracket the correct distance from the frame. These will be replaced with rubber shock mounts when they arrive. Some aluminium rod does the job for the time being.

http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11922

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All done!

http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11922

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Still have to grab a 180 degree fitting so the hose doesnt have to kink back on itself so badly and slap on the shock mounts, then the rear of the bike is done (just have to fix up the front half now )

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05-11-2010, 08:29 AM

|
#3

Glen
Rider

Headgasket Replacement So after getting the bike and running it for a short time it was obvious something was badly wrong. Coolant would jet out the filler hose and it was leaving a smoke screen behind that james bond would be proud of Oh, and this was my $50 brand new oil 2 hours later

Join Date: Oct 2010 Posts: 433 Location: NSW Rep Power: 63

'91 Suzuki Across

http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11922

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So time to dive right in and change that biatch. 1) http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/for...ad.php?t=11748 Go through this till step 19. This guide will start from there. 2) Undo all the bolts for the exhaust (8 on the head and 1x on the right rearset and remove the system) 3) Now time to take the head off. There's 12x nuts that hold it down, and you have to crack them off a tiny amount in the correct pattern to avoid warping the head. Follow the torque pattern on page 3-49 of the manual. I slowly undid them about 1/8th turn at a time until they were all sufficiently loose they could be threaded off by hand. It took a while, but its worth it to ensure you dont bugger anything up.

To make sure you dont drop any of the nuts down into the engine once you thread them off (that'd be bad mmkay) i just duct taped a strong magnet to a screwdriver. Suzuki special tool rm12039598 lols.

http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11922

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4) With all the nuts removed and kept in order you can then take the head off It might take a few taps with a rubber mallet (on the exhaust side only!) to loosen the gasket. taaddaaa

Well theres yer problem

http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11922

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5) Nows a good time to give the head a quick clean while its off. Some carb cleaner and a rag wiped it all off pretty nicely.

6) Twiddle your thumbs for a few days waiting for the new gasket to come and then slap that thing on. I was a bit uncertain as to what way it went on, because there's no stamping on it saying which way goes up, all the holes lined up which ever way it went on and also there isnt alot of info around for it on the net oddly enough. The only mention i found was this - http://www.kenoconnorracing.com/Head...20Failure.html "Some gaskets are directional. Steel gaskets have the ribs facing up." That and the old gasket was flat so i figured it didnt matter and just put it on with the ribs up. Working fine so far!

http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11922

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7) This makes the cam chain a bit easier to keep in place while putting the head back on. I just wrapped some very clean wire around it and then tied the wire to the frame cross member keeping to keep it straight up and out of the way.

8) Slowly slide the head on. With mine the two locating dowels came off with the head annoyingly. And i didnt want to wreck them trying to prise em out so i just left them there and carefully made sure the headgasket located on them.

http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11922

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9) Redo all 12 head nuts up refering to the torque pattern on 3-49 to 1.5 to 1.9kg-m making sure you dont drop any of them down the engine again (a clean rag down the cam chain slot is always a good idea). 10) - Follow on from step 20 to put it all back together http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/for...ad.php?t=11748 Bike runs way better since doing it and the smokescreen and coolant geyser subsided. But still had water in the oil when i filled it back up Turns out the water pump is shagged! argh. So im halfway through that atm.

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05-11-2010, 10:05 AM

|
#4

Romeo
Rider

This is a great thread mate keep us updated. It might take a few oil changes to flush out the moisture that is in that engine now?

Join Date: Apr 2010 Posts: 604 Location: QLD Rep Power: 28

'88 Suzuki Gsxr250

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05-11-2010, 10:30 AM

|
#5

http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11922

29/04/2012

GSX250F Junker fix up - Aussie Street Bikes

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extermin8tor
Rider

Wow what a thread are easier for me

Looks difficult working on an I4 engine, vtwins and single

Good luck with the water pump!

Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,548 Location: SA Rep Power: 443

'03 Suzuki GSX-R 600

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05-11-2010, 10:39 AM

|
#6

Glen
Rider

haha! yeah, i had my heart set on a DRZ400SM or VTR250, but they were just too much $$ for now. One day though me off the demo DRZ they had XD Romeo - yeah im not too sure what ill do on that problem. ive got a litre of motul and a litre of shell oil left over so ill probably run those two through quickly to try take as much of the milk out as possible after ive drained the filters and sump out. Shall see. Got a qoute for the pump parts, $240 for the complete unit or $50 for the seals, The guys at Action MC had to prise

Join Date: Oct 2010 Posts: 433 Location: NSW Rep Power: 63

so ill probably be rebuilding that now. more pics to come

'91 Suzuki Across

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08-11-2010, 12:12 PM

|
#7

manishm
Pillion Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 2 Location: ACT Rep Power: 2

hey hi glen, this is Manish from India. I've got one suzuki across and i need Gasket set, valves and some tit-bits for my bike can you help me out in some way. can you let me know where could i order for gasket??? I would be really very thankful for your help. Regards Manish

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08-11-2010, 12:16 PM

|
#8

extermin8tor
Rider

Have you tried Maruti Suzuki, Manish? You can order all suzuki genuine parts through the dealer.

Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,548 Location: SA Rep Power: 443

'03 Suzuki GSX-R 600

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08-11-2010, 12:21 PM

|
#9

http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11922

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manishm
Pillion Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 2 Location: ACT Rep Power: 2

Originally Posted by extermin8tor Have you tried Maruti Suzuki, Manish? You can order all suzuki genuine parts through the dealer.

But will there be a SUZUKI ACROSS (GSX250F) gasket available??? i was trying to find out some website which has parts for Suzuki across so that i can order it.

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08-11-2010, 01:27 PM

|
#10

xr650r
Pillion 1st Class

awesome bike mate !!!

Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 31 Location: NSW Rep Power: 2

'00 Honda Xr650r

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09-12-2010, 03:17 PM

|
#11

Glen
Rider

Pphhewww what a hell of a day to be attempting this. damn you 33 degree weather Finally got all my bits to finish the bike off completely so i can start the final run to finishing it off. Should have a ton done by weeks end so ill do up a giant pictorial post then of rebuilding the water pump and doing the fork seals. For now, this is how a 62kg guy, unassisted, gets both wheels off a bike, at the same time, without any proper bike stands. im pretty proud Has been sitting up there for a week so its alot more stable then i thought it might be

Join Date: Oct 2010 Posts: 433 Location: NSW Rep Power: 63

'91 Suzuki Across

http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11922

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updates soon..

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09-12-2010, 08:40 PM

|
#12

grubby r6
Pillion 1st Class

awesome thread, you,ll enjoy it so much more when your riding her

Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 42 Location: QLD Rep Power: 3

'00 Yamaha R6

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10-12-2010, 12:50 PM

|
#13

Glen
Rider

Kin oath! so very close to that now Alright so got a little bit done today. Jacking the bike up The forks just haemmoraghe oil like no tommorow currently. The amount they seem to leak is biblical. So doing the seals was obviously needed, specially given the smell of the fluid. First job though was to get both wheels off the ground so i could get the things out. Having no bike stands and no money for bike stands i thought, what would the outback bush mechanics do XD and came up with this method.

Join Date: Oct 2010 Posts: 433

http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11922

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Location: NSW Rep Power: 63

'91 Suzuki Across

First i pilfered the 'rents ladder and placed it over the front of the bike followed by shoving a rather large piece of stainless steel pipe i had laying about through the rungs. Then with some 300kg ratchet straps i looped one half through the front rails up the front of the bike, and the other half went around the pipe. The excess was just tied around the pipe + rung to stop the pipe rocking around. After that i just did them up tight enough to hold the bike upright and take some of the load off the suspension.

Next.. getting the back end up and supported. Took me a while to work out how to do it cause im just not strong enough to dead lift the back end of it up onto the jackstands. In the end i did it this way. Placed one jackstand on the right side of the bike with a piece of box section resting on it and passing under the swingarm and through the wheel.

Then on the other side i simply jacked up the other end of the box section with a bottle jack and slipped the other jack stand under the swingarm.

http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11922

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With the bike held up vertically by the ratchet straps up front, i could just take out the long piece of box section and put the other jackstand under the swingarm also.

taddaaa And with all that done the front can be jacked up further with the ratchet straps until the wheel is off the ground. No physical lifting or effort required at all to do this really. so i was pretty happy with how it went.

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10-12-2010, 01:17 PM

|
#14

Glen
Rider

annddd now... Removing and Disassembling Forks The real grunt work begins now First up, taking off the front wheel. All pretty obvious. Just take off the nut and pull the axle out + the spacers. The speedo drive gearbox gets taken off as well.

Join Date: Oct 2010 Posts: 433 Location: NSW Rep Power: 63

'91 Suzuki Across

http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11922

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I didnt jack the bike up high enough to get the front wheel out without removing the fender, but it has to come off for the forks to come out anyway.. so removing the 4 outer bolts allows it to lift up, so you can remove the wheel itself then get to the 4 nuts to seperate the plate from the fender.

Or at least thats should how it go, unless you have a stripped bolt with a rounded head

Couldnt be bothered dealing with stuck bolts today so i just very carefully cut the head off with a hacksaw (grinder near forks is a bit scary). This action luckily loosened the bolt and the day was saved

http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11922

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With the wheel and fender out the fork themselves can now come out. Workshop foreman, netcatching spider keeps an eye on the preceedings

Undoing the fork caps, i read all over the net that they'd rocket out and punch holes in the ceiling. Was rather underwhelmed when they just popped up about 20mm .. pop the cap off and take out the spacer tube. Best to do all this while the tubes are all clamped up.

http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11922

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Take off all the hose and cable guides + the front caliper and rest it on something so as not to put any load on the hose.

http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11922

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Time for them bitches to come out The allen key bolt on the top triple clamp and the hex head on the bottom one is undone then the forks can slide out. Getting the hex head undone on the water bottle side is a royal pain in the ARSE and a complete shit design. have to use an open ended wrench to undo it which requires a fair few whacks with a hammer to loosen..

http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11922

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Careful not to upend the fork and dump filthy reaking oil all over the floor as i did >__> an oil pan serves this purpose better <__< When you upend it the spring seat and spring will come out. Place them aside somewhere.

Now the part you'll hate. the dreaded.

JESUS BOLT. I have read that it

can either be nigh on impossible to get out or not that bad. It must be my lucky day cause they came out easily Clamping it gently in the vice with some plastic and rags wrapped around it so its not damaged then a quick deadblow on the allenkey knocked it loose easy as.

http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11922

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The damping rod + spring and bolt all can come out now (i think those are what they are?)

Next pick out the dust seal. I used a flat head driver cause mine were stuffed anyway. Careful not to damage the staunchions! This part had me for a while, but suzukis idea of a circlip is some haggard looking bent piece of wire, so that gets levered out also.

By this point you should have build up enough RAGE to complete this task sufficiently well. Grab the forks as such and pull them apart as hard as you can to seperate em. Then you can remove that pesky oil seal

http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11922

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Mine are completely fuuuuuuuuuu cked

I should have finished the reassembly today as well, except smart ass me thought the dust seals would be fine as they looked it from the outside.. till they crumbled apart in my hands when i removed each one D: SO hopefully action MC has them in stock, or ill have to wait to get them from suziparts next week. Lesson learnt on that one. just buy all the damn parts! More soon.

http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11922

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10-12-2010, 09:01 PM

|
#15

extermin8tor
Rider

F** me (pardon the french) those are some nasty ass fork seals When I had to do mine on the Hyo originally they looked fine, they must have just gotten worn on the inner race. I found that if you are doing a one man job without even basic tools such as a vice, you basically you just find a curtain rod thats about 2-3 metres and just fit it over the end of the socket handle and use it as a giant lever while you put your left foot onto the fork leg so that it doesnt rotate

Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,548 Location: SA Rep Power: 443

'03 Suzuki GSX-R 600

Your probably more experienced than me anyway, but here is my 2 cents, if you use some Autosol to polish the fork leg, it really brings a shine to the fork and removes little scratches and rust Great writeup dude, you have inspired me to take more photos when I am working on my old clunker It really helps others and is also just interesting to read On a side note, it looks like Hyosung ripped off 99% of the fork design from suzuki, even the shape of the damper bolt Granted that it is probably a common design in the industry

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