Medium-density fibreboard

A sample of MDF Medium-density fibreboard (MDF) is an engineered wood product formed by breaking down and a resin binder, and forming panels by applying high temperature and pressure.[1] MDF is similar in application to plywood. It is stronger and much more dense than normal particle board. The name derives from the distinction in densities of fibreboard. Large-scale production of MDF began in the 1980s.[citation needed]

hardwood or softwood residuals into wood fibres, often in a defibrator, combining it with wax denser than plywood. It is made up of separated fibres, but can be used as a building material

MDF belongs to the hardboard family of products which are made from wood fibers glued under heat and pressure. Medium Density Fiberboard typically has densities between 33 and 50 pounds per cubic feet while High Density Fiberboard (HDF) ranges between 50 and 80 pounds per cubic feet. Hardboard was first produced in 1924 by W. H. Mason, founder of Masonite Corp. The term Masonite is therefore often used to denote hardboard products, especially HDF.

Physical and dimensional tolerances for MDF are specified in ANSI A208.2-1986 MDF from different sources will vary in texture, density, color, etc. MDF has no surface grain, so cutting, filing or drilling does not damage its surface. MDF can be painted, veneered or laminated to produce an attractive finish.

Because MDF is not a true wood surface, it doesn't stain well. However, paint adheres to it well, especially if the MDF is lightly sanded and primed first.

It is very strong, provides longevity, is resistant to warpage caused by moisture. Its smooth quality surface allows for easy application of varnishes and laminates, oil or water-based paints, and it's easily cut, drilled and machined. Consumers benefit from cost savings compared to real wood.

MDF board reduces wood waste, and it's superior to particleboard for furniture construction. It is possible to make MDF from 100% recovered wood fiber, so habitat preservation is aided, by stylish laminates and finishes, so it's invisible to the consumer eye. MDF is contained in deforestation slowed, and landfill waste reduced. Most often used as a substrate that is covered many parts of home and office construction as well as in numerous furniture item, such as desks, bookcases, credenzas, stands, and more Compared to particle board, MDF is stronger, more dense, much more resistant to warping, and has machine-able edges that reduce the necessity for edge-banding.

MDF boards can be finished to a highly smooth degree and they may also be grain-printed. Thus, while veneers or laminates may be added to the surface for some furnishings, MDF allows the product to receive a direct finish also.

The Drum Roll

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After the wood fibers have been dried, they are loaded into a large drum. The fibers are sprayed with a water-soluble, waxy resin. This resin is a synthetic wax, comprised of urea formaldehyde and other additives. As the particles tumble in the drum, they form into balls and clumps due to the sticky resin application. A vacuum-like instrument within the drum breaks up the balls as the drum spins.

Pressed Into Boards

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The fibers are removed from the drum and hand-pressed into narrow mats. Mats are combined into a very large press that uses heat and tremendous pressure to bind the resin and fibers into large sheets of the desired thickness. As the presses compress the mats, large amounts of formaldehyde vapor are released into the air. After the mats have been compressed into thick sheets, the MDF board is cooled, cut into sections, weighed and prepared for shipping.

MDF is often used in conjunction with real wood in furniture. For example, real wood is often used for the "exposed" parts of a dresser, such as the frame and door fronts, while MDF is used for the back and the insides of the drawers. Warning MDF furniture cannot be sanded and repainted or stained, as real wood can. This will cause the surface to break down and you will ruin the finish for good.

Physical properties Over time, the word "MDF" has become a generic name for any dry process fiber board.[citation
needed]

MDF density is typically between 500 kg/m3 (31 lbs/ft3) and 1000 kg/m3 (62 lbs/ft3).[2]

The range of density and classification as Light or Standard or High density board is a

misnomer and confusing. Density of board when evaluated in relation to density of the fiber that goes in to making of the panel is important. A thick MDF panel at 700-720 density in case of softwood fiber panels may be considered as high density whereas a panel of same density when made of hard wood fibers is not so.[citation needed]

With the experiences gained over the period of time, the industry has evolved MDF as an application driven product suitable to specific applications.

: MDF has many qualities that make it an ideal replacement for plywood or particle board. It is dense, flat, stiff, has no knots and is easily machined. Its fine particles provide dimensional

stability without a predominant "grain" (as is the case with lumber). Unlike most plywoods, MDF contains no voids, and will deliver sharp edges with no tearout. MDF is very well damped acoustically thus making it an ideal material for speaker enclosures.

Below are some metrics for MDF and other types of wood. Ex: Weight of MDF board. As you bracing is suggested. Wood MDF Oak Pine Modulus of Elasticity density

can see, MDF is very dense and heavy, but is not as stiff as other types of wood which is why

weight of 4x8 sheet

(in million pounds per square inch) (in pounds per cubic feet) 1/2" thick (in pounds) 0.53 1.55 1.3 48 38 29 33 75-85 60-70 45-50 45-55

Plywood 1.2

The modulus of elasticity (MOE), also called Young's modulus, is the ratio of stress to strain, by the stress. The MOE is therefore a measure of stiffness.

where stress is the force per unit area placed on the item and strain is the deformation caused

Comparison to natural woods MDF does not contain knots or rings, making it more uniform than natural woods during cutting and in service. However, MDF is not entirely isotropic, since the fibres are pressed tight together through the sheet. Like natural wood, MDF may split when woodscrews are installed without pilot holes, and MDF may be glued, doweled or laminated, but smooth-shank nails do do not hold well in MDF and screw retention in the edge is particularly poor. Special screws has a hard, flat, smooth surface that makes it ideal for veneering, as there is no underlying

not hold well. Typical fasteners are T-nuts and pan-head machine screws.[4] Fine-pitch screws are available with a coarse thread pitch but sheet-metal screws also work well. Typical MDF

grain to telegraph through the thin veneer as with plywood. A so-called "Premium" MDF is available that features more uniform density throughout the thickness of the panel. Safety aspects - "probable human carcinogen" When MDF is cut a large quantity of dust particles are released into the air. It is important that a respirator be worn and the material be cut in a controlled and ventilated environment. It is a good practice to seal the exposed edges to limit the emissions from the binders contained in this material.

Formaldehyde resins are commonly used to bind MDF together, and testing has consistently revealed that MDF products emit urea-formaldehyde and other volatile organic compounds that pose health risks at sufficient concentrations, for at least several months after manufacture.[5][6][7] Urea-formaldehyde is always being slowly released from the surface of MDF. When painting it is good idea to coat all sides of the finished piece in order to seal in the urea-formaldehyde. Wax and oil finishes may be used as finishes but they are less effective at sealing in the urea-formaldehyde.[3]

Whether these constant emissions of formaldehyde reach harmful levels in real-world

environments is not yet fully determined. The primary concern is for the industries using formaldehyde. As far back as 1987 the U.S. EPA classified it as a "probable human carcinogen" also classified it as a "probable human carcinogen". Dust is another MDF hazard. The large amount of dust released when working MDF makes proper respiratory and eye protection mandatory. At a minimum use a dust mask. A respirator is preferable. Shop dust collection (or even a ShopVac) would greatly help the removal of dust always be worn while using tools. from not only the air but also the working surfaces, making them easier to see. Goggles should and after more studies the WHO International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC), in 1995,

How is MDF sold? A: MDF is manufactured in sheets up to 8ft x 25ft. Typical consumer level sheets are 4x8 or 5x8 and 1/2 inch, 3/4 inch and 1 inch in thickness. Thicknesses can also be metric - an important consideration when considering the use of English system tools (such as router bits).

MDF is also available with a variety of veneers and laminates pre-applied, which may affect its actual thickness.

Can I build speakers with {MDF | particle board | plywood | solid wood}? A: You can build speakers with whatever you like. However, MDF is often the material of choice. Its stiffness and density yield good acoustical damping properties. Particle board and plywood are cheaper and can still be used if cost is an issue. Plywood (especially if void free) can be used in the main baffle as a sandwich material to better hold fasteners. Plywood is also a good material for making braces inside speaker boxes. Solid wood (lumber) suffers from movement - the swelling and shrinking of wood due to environmental changes such as humidity - and is therefore not a good material for speaker enclosures. Lumber is also not as acoustically dead as MDF.

What should I use to cut and mill MDF? A: MDF can be treated much like a fine grained hardwood. Its high glue content means that steel cutting tools will dull VERY quickly; thus the use of carbide tools is highly recommended. Always keep your tools sharp for efficiency and safety. The following recommendations are from the The National Particleboard Association publication:

For general shop or table saw use with decent cut and good blade life, a 50 tooth, 10 inch combination blade may be used. For those demanding a better cut, consider a 60 tooth, 10 inch blade with alternate top bevel (ATB) teeth at 15 degrees, 10 degree positive hook, 5 degree side clearance, 10 degree outside diameter clearance, and low approach angle (blade projecting no more than 0.5 inch through top of material).

For an even smoother cut, consider an 80 tooth, 10 inch blade with 15 degree ATB, 10 degree alternate face bevel, 15 degree positive hook, and 7 degrees side clearance. This is costlier and may result in a shorter blade life.

What kind of joints can I use? A: Because MDF can be milled to just about any profile, there are many possible joints. However, not all make sense in the context of speaker building.

butt - this simplest of joints may not be ideal for furniture but works very well for building speakers, especially when combined with biscuits (for alignment) and screws (for holding strength while the glue dries).

miter - works well when using pre-finished MDF (veneered or laminated) thus leaving no exposed unfinished surfaces. lock-miter, dovetail and other routered joints - works just like lumber. These joints have limited use in most speaker enclosures. rabbets, dadoes, grooves and other saw cut joints - same as with hardwood. Note that of the speaker. these can also be cut with a router. These joints may be useful, depending on the design

spline, biscuit, dowel - as with lumber, the glue joint is stronger than the MDF. Dowel to 1/16 inch deeper than the actual depth used. Plain or spiral grooved dowels are parts in addition to the additional gluing surface provided.

holes should be 0.002 to 0.003 inch larger than the average dowel diameter, and 1/32 preferred over fluted or multigrooved dowels. Biscuits are very handy for alignment of

MDF can also be edge glued to make larger surfaces, although this is not likely to happen except with exceptionally large speakers. Panels can be scarfed, doweled, tongue & grooved and finger jointed.

What kinds of glues can I use with MDF? A: Good glues to use are gap-filling glues such as polyvinyl acetate (PVA) typically known as yellow glue, modified PVA glues like Titebond II or white glues. Epoxy, urea and hot melt glues may also be used.

The Various Types of MDF Used for Fancy Furniture 1. Raw

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Raw MDF can be used for any application that requires machine carving. It is popular for raised panel doors, side jambs of china cabinets, fancy buffet cabinets and specialty interior doors. Raw MDF can be routed into any shape, sanded smooth and painted or heavily coated with tinted lacquer to achieve a glassy, extremely smooth profile. MDF panels are run through a shaper, vertical plunge router or CNC machine: these create profiles that cannot be manufactured with solid wood, chipboard or plywood.

Melamine
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Melamine-faced MDF, referred to as MDL (medium density laminate), has many uses. It is popular for European-style cabinets found in expensive homes, as well as for commercial cabinets found in hospitals, businesses and anywhere an expensive-looking attractive surface is desirable. Melamine-faced is often used for counter or tabletop applications because of its resistance to water, and made into fancy end tables, coffee tables, specialty cabinet doors and church pew ends.

Veneer
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Veneer-faced MDF is used like any high-grade plywood, but has the same fibercore center as raw MDF. Veneered MDF can be purchased with oak, ash, or mahogany veneer on both sides, or a combination of MDL on one side and MDF on the other. Veneer-faced is used to build fancy tables, desks and cabinets, or any other items for which plywood is used. Some cabinet makers prefer veneered MDF because of its durability, its lack of the "voids" (small hollow pockets) that plywood has and its ability to be edge-profiled and sanded to any shape.

MDF and Exposure to Moisture Some kitchen cabinets are constructed with MDF. MDF is Medium Density Fiberboard. It is a man-made, wood-based solid product manufactured into the shape of boards. Often confused with particleboard, MDF is made from wood pulp fibers as opposed to the wood particles used in particleboard. The wood pulp is cabinetry manufacture in place of plywood because of MDF's strength and resistance to warping. Resistance to Moisture
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mixed with a formaldehyde-based wax resin, which holds it together. MDF boards are used in

One of the disadvantages of using MDF instead of plywood is that MDF has not traditionally been as resistant to moisture. All wood and MDF products expand and contract in situations of high humidity or interaction with damp surfaces. In conditions where wood shrinkage is .05 percent, the MDF shrinkage will be .25 percent. (A moisture meter can be used to determine the content of the MDF before installation so that the builder can allow for shrinkage or expansion when installed in normal household conditions. MDF usually has moisture content of seven to 10 percent at the point of its manufacture.)

Protection of MDF by Proper Storage

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At construction sites, MDF boards should be protected against weather

conditions by placing them on pallets and, if possible, by standing them with air flow between each sheet. The sheets should be covered tightly with a canvas or other waterproof tarpaulin. Protection from Moisture by Coating
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A highly durable outer coating of melamine can be applied to MDF boards so that they become more moisture-resistant. Melamine is a hard plastic laminate

that is either glued onto the MDF or is thermo-induced in an upgraded process during which the resin in the MDF adheres to the melamine, creating a more reliable veneer. (An added bonus to coating with melamine is that harmful be carcinogenic.) Protection from Moisture by Elevation
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formaldehyde vapors are sealed in and not released into areas where they may

An installation tactic used to prevent moisture from contaminating MDF in the case of flood water in garages and cellars is that cabinets are not floor supported but hung from walls, thus elevating them from dangerous wet conditions.

The Differences Between MDF & Particle Board MDF is short for medium density fiberboard. MDF and particleboard are two forms of inexpensive wood-based sheet goods used by home and furniture builders, sometimes as substitutes for plywood. Construction
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Very fine particle waste wood products, much more like layers of paper than wood, make MDF. Particleboard comes from very coarse sawdust mixed with special glues.

Water-Resistance
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MDF is reasonably water-resistant, although you do not want to expose it to water if you can avoid it. Particleboard will soak up water easily, lose its stability and can fall apart.

Appearance

MDF has a very smooth texture and does not need edge banding; it also takes finishes well. Particleboard simply does not look good---any exposed edges will need to be finished, as will its flat surfaces.

Building Use
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MDF is often used for built-ins. Particleboard is best used for under-flooring. Either material can become shelving and some types of furniture.

Warnings
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Neither MDF nor particleboard is solid wood, so neither is as strong nor holds screws as well as solid wood. Some applications require special fasteners to use addition to any fasteners. with these products. If you build with either material, use recommended glues in