Does Size Matter?..Shape, Not Size, is the Key Imagine.

You are alone; or even with others, but while aware of their presence and their own purpose, your feelings and thoughts are deep inside your self. There are vast skies of wall to wall deepest blue. The special smell of thin mountain air so crisp, and fresh, your mouth involuntarily opens to gulp down that little bit more. Now listen to your heat beat, strong and regular inside your head and temples. Hear the crunch of crampon to snow crust, as you move upwards. See the dawn burst of the sun, warming, and bringing life to cold limbs and extremities. Feel the first low breeze of the day across the ridges, the early aspects of a new day in the Himalaya. You, the mountain, the recognition of your humbleness to its Divine Spirit and Majesty. Respect given and taken. And now the only way is down, all around you the snow slope falls away at each aspect. A summit gained. An ambition allowed, a memory made, so many decisions taken. The physical risks, subjective dangers, the overcoming of the false fears of the twilight dawn. The comradeship of others, the reliance on sherpas and porters that make it possible..and the responsibility of being part of all that Mother Earth has given us. You have shared a place, a point, a true summit..and it is now time to make the journey downwards back to a more stark form of reality ~ charged with excitement, the realisation of being fully alive, and the utter simplicity of it all in a world made so complicated by man and his illusions of necessity. Can you see it all? How does it feel?. We all have what it takes; it is just a matter of how motivated we are to use that motivation and perseverance. Mountain tops are what WE perceive them to be. They are much more than a point on a map that just tells us where they ought to be! ~ And that very often depends on the mapmaker anyway! For many of us, every time we reach one, it is like the first time, and no summit has been any greater, or less, than any another. They are all one and yet they are all different. Once again, it is mans illusion of necessity that has classified them into Expedition Peaks and Trekking Peaks and we have confused ourselves ever since ~ some have paid with their lives for being tricked by the illusion, having assumed that the difficulty began and ended in the named classification. In 1981 the Government (through the Offices of Nepalese Mountaineering Association ~ NMA) streamlined group climbing permit applications for 18 mountains which it called trekking peaks. The name is not well chosen for some of these peaks are challenging technical climbs, while a handful are peaks within the ability of the experienced hill walker/hiker with a guide comments Jamie McGuinness a climber and trek leader based in Nepal. To be completely fair, the concept was a fantastic idea ~ to designate a variety of mountains across the Nepalese Himalaya, where the socio-economic needs and culture of the people living near these mountains were very different, and to give these points on the map a fixed peak fee payable through a recognised outfitting agency in Kathmandu ~ with the outfitter providing a guide recognised by the NMA. Certainly many, many thousands of visitors to Nepal from every part of the world, local porters, and remote communities have benefited from this innovate programme, despite what some very vocal, illinformed, heavily opinionated and inexperienced voluntary workers will tell you to the contrary. The more technical peaks can be climbed in Alpine Style, and the less technical are ideal for determined trekkers with little or no technical expertise. The key is selecting the right mountain for your ambitions and to stay within your personal comfort zone. As Jamie points out forget the term trekking peak and look at the grade, and altitude.

What is extraordinary is that none of the other Himalayan nations have adopted this peak fee system to open up climbing access in a streamlined manner. The exception that proves the rule is made by the CTMA who have granted a permit for trekkers to visit the North Col of Mt. Everest at 7000m, 23,000ft. So it is now possible to have a mountaineers experience of climbing on Everest with the North Col as the designated peak in the pre-monsoon season. This is the highest trek in the Himalaya, and does not have major technical requirements, like the crossing from the Barun to Chhukung Valleys via West Col, the Amphu Lapcha and Sherpani Col where a height of 6135m (201295ft) is gained. The Everest North Col trekking peak permit is exclusive to a sole operator and managed by High & Wild in UK for the next 5 years. The attempts are guided in conjunction with a team climbing the Tibetan side of the mountain. This trek-climb will be guided by John Shipton, son of Eric Shipton, in May 2002. The minefield of it all is.... How and where to begin? ~ so that you can commit your self and as far as possible your safety, to the right trekking and guiding company, especially as there are so many to choose from. Probably the best starting point is by talking to specialist companies that are based near you, or at least are not too far away. There are some key questions they should be asking you! Why? So that they can ensure that they do not involve you with an adventure that is beyond your capabilities or comfort zone. You must be honest. This is the only way that they can do their best for you. Keep nothing back fears, past injuries, likes, dislikes, and most of all practical experience or lack of it. If you have none, say sothen they can help you gain, or advise you where to go to learn, the basic skills you will need to climb. There are also some key questions you should be asking them. Do you limit numbers to small manageable groups that respect local infrastructure and safety on the mountain? Are there briefing weekends for you to enable your preparation to be correct? Do these briefings include discussion of Altitude Sickness? Does the group have a Gammow Bag? Is there a trained paramedic with group? What medical needs should I look to provide for my self? Is there an appointed qualified leader going with the group from the outset? Is the climbing support provided by NMA approved guides? Do the sherpas have an equipment allowance? Do insurance and a welfare scheme cover the porters? What fuels are used for cooking? Where has the mountaineering equipment come from? Is it made to UIAA standards? Do they operate to IGO 8000 standards for all their climbs (this is the charter for guided high expedition peaks, and should just as easily apply to 6000m peaks or less if the operator has good credentials) Are they practising the Green Globe 21 principles? Or another of the recognised sustainable tourism charters? The Internet is a nightmare of conflicting information, with no firm footing to make any judgement of competence, so be careful here. The best recommendation for climbing companies comes by word of mouth. Remember too that very often that the in country outfitters have made their finest climbers and support staff available to the companies that bring them regular business. So direct contact with an outfitter in Nepal could mean you get the second or third string of support. You do not want lowland farmers supporting you at altitude. They are not adapted to these conditions, physically and mentally, and certainly suffer the cold badly. Remember there is always some one who will do it cheaper..You need to be with some one who does it better! It is your experience, safety, and your money you are investing in for your self to be managed by professionals. But what ever you do please does not be one of These. In recent years the climbing companies have seen a tendency for a certain type of client that thinks, money buys it all. Your payment of the fees is the payment for you to participate and to be cared for with all that that initials in the mountains.

You have to make the effort,you must go to the peak. The guides cannot (and quite rightly) should not bring it to you. In variably where there have been passengers they have been too slow and avoidable disasters have been the result, carefully referred to afterwards as accidents. You must try your best, work hard, and participate in the whole group, helping, enjoying and providing support, by caring for the others and showing an interest in all matters. Such under achievers can destroy the harmony of a climb and are an enormous burden. These days they are usually not tolerated and sent home early, with no refund. No matter how experienced you are, picking a suitable peak to climb is probably the most difficult decision. Once again the novice can ask for guidance here, but do remember, the decision of which peak to climb is in the end yours, the operator can only advise and make a recommendation to you. If you take on too much, it will soon become obvious, and the guide will not let you continue for your own safety (and theirs) Height has no relationship to technical difficulty, but in most non-mountaineers minds getting high is the main purpose. This is confirmed by the Grand Old Duke of York packages available for Mera Peak (6654m or 21832ft) in Solu Khumbu, which is afforded a grade capable by any determined hill walker. Recently with some friends I witnessed 5 groups of more than 20 clients making their way to Mera Base Camp coming up the hill from Surke to Puiyan in Solu Khumbu. They were buried under mountains of personal equipment, most of it surplus to any need, and struggling to keep up with the planned itinerary. We felt very sorry for them as we wandered by well acclimatised and full of energy and fun on our way to climb Loubche East having come to Khumbu from Tumlingtar. While Mera Peak is technically an easy climb, its accessibility has lead to deaths from AMS and the slopes are prone to avalanche, so the mountain has randomly claimed even more lives over the years. Locals say this is because of lack of respect for the mountain. They believe that one of the most humble and loved of modern Sherpas, Babu Chiri, was taken in the same way by the Gods on Everest to show their growing displeasure with they way the mountains are loosing the respect of climbers of all nations, and to teach us all a lesson. They have a point. It does seem that for some participants the motivation for such experiences has no other integrity than a tick on a diverse adventurous resume. Once again the key is to ask. Which trekking peaks will be a real adventure? ~ Do you really want to participate in an international high altitude gathering of people wearing brand new flashy mountaineering kit, with the latest extreme hardware to match, and go crocodile fashion to the top? A good operator and guide will know for sure. He can also tell you what down to earth kit to bring, and not to waste money on "wing-dings and gizmos" And he has the ability to check the latest state of the routes and their access from those who where there recently. This is vital. In correspondence with the British Mountaineering Council, in the pursuit of data for this article, I came to the conclusion that much of the available route descriptions on trekking peaks was either out of date, dangerous to follow due to major dramatic changes in terrain during the last 15 years, vague to the point of being both confusing and/or dangerous, and at best incorrect, and misleading. This is certainly not intentional by any of the providers of the information, but it is nevertheless scary stuff down here at sea level and positively disastrous at altitude. The BMC has now noted this in their information. Consequently no grades are given to match the mountains on the permitted list here. Descriptions of the grades are noted, so in conjunction with your chosen climbing company you can select peaks that suit your own abilities, technical standards, and needs together, while considering the latest reports on the state of the mountain. But do remember that when you set out, there is nothing to say that even an Easy Peak such as Mera will be in condition, or that the weather will stay seasonal. The rescue by helicopter of two

sizeable parties in October 1999, completely cut off to retreat by any other means demonstrates this. No peak, no matter of what height can be taken for granted.

Over the years I have been lucky enough to climb a fair number of the peaks that are on the list. And to have been turned back by a few as well. Climbs (for me) are made by companions and conditions, certainly not by height, but yes, sometimes technical difficulty. There is a great sense of achievement in working the chess game of mind, technique, stamina and self-confidence with the mountains defences. The line of the route is important too, the flow and grace of it all. Chhukung Ri 5550m (18210ft), stands out as a wonderful climb in 1976 on the way to climb Everest (revisited again in1999), and so does Chulu East 6584m (21602ft), last year for very different reasons. The full potential of Chhukung Ri is so often over looked or better to say, un-visited. Heading up the Chhukung valley to Eric Shiptons Island Peak, (Imja Tse 6160m or 20211ft), it gets a cursory glance and perhaps a scrabble up its debilitating scree slopes. This is the backside of the mountain. The adventure lies in approaching from the spur on which the South Face of Nuptse Base Camp is traditionally situated. There is a commemorative plaque there to the dead of an Expedition in 1975 which lets you know you are in the right place. By following the crest of the spur along the Nuptse Shar Glacier and crossing the glacier itself to gain an ice filled hanging basin, a complete vista of snow and ice climbing opens up. You can bivouac here in utter isolation and in the close proximity of the greatest ice wall and ramparts in the Himalaya. The dawn brings an early start and ice climbing potentials of all standards into reach. Accompanied by Tim King, Old Dawa, (who now has no more life, as Tsering Sherpa says) we breached the bergschrund before first light and front pointed right up the centre of the face, long pitch after pitch, yahoo-ing, yelling and laughing at the fly-on the ice-wall position and the outrageousness of it all. Dawa loved it too, singing Sherpa songs out of tune and grinning to show his two remaining teeth! Near the top, we gave Dawa the lead and watched him take the final steps to the top. Staying just below, we heard his prayers and felt the swirling energies released as he made his offerings of salt and biscuit to this abode of Gods. A summit visited and a descent made by enormous leaps down the scree to rejoin our companions of two days before. For those planning to climb several trekking peaks in the area, the next re-entrant to the West of Nuptse Base Camp provides a short cut over a little used pass to the Khumbu Glacier and other trekking peaks as well as Everest Base Camp. The journey to Chulu East in the Annapurnas in Western Nepal takes the path of one of the classic trekking routes. This area of Nyeshang in the upper Marsyangdi valley was shut to foreigners until the mid seventies as the village of Manang is so close to the Tibetan border. It is from Manang or Braga, a smaller village just before, that the long ascent over two or three days of continuous uphill walking brings you to base camp. There are some waterfalls that are by passed with a long detour on the way on day two. This area has not seen many visitors and there are few traces of previous climbers until base camp. The views of the Annapurnas are breathtaking, and with the evening clouds below in the post monsoon season, it looks as if you could stroll across the thick flat cloud base and walk right up them, and be back in time for supper. In October last, as leader of a group to Climb Chulu East, with base camp established it was time to make a reconnaissance of the peak and to chose a climbing route. We had with us Bill OConnors book The Trekking Peaks of Nepal first published in 1989. It was reprinted in 1991 and 1999 and had proven most helpful and informative. I could see the climbing lines referred to up to the ridge and Col where the route disappeared from sight, and so decided to make a foray to the ridge to see the route from the ridge to the summit, the next day. With my friend and climbing partner Chhudlim

Tenba Sherpa we set off up the 400m slope. The climbing was superb, not in the least bit difficult, but requiring proper care and movement. Below the ridge we stopped drank from our flasks, and put on our windproof jackets to cope with the steady breeze we could hear above us. Neither of us was ready for the next part of our reconnaissance. The described route from now onwards had completely disappeared. The glacial basin we were to cross had melted, the snow slope to the ridge was scree and rubble, and there was no feasible alternative. In a matter of 13 years all the main features had either disappeared through climatic change, massive landslides and rockfall. The lesson is never trust the guidebook, always trust yourself, and better still trust your guide! There were no alternatives for us to consider, so we set our sights on the neighbouring Chulu Far East with the team and successfully climbed the mountain with strict adherence to rigidly set bogy times to allow for a safe descent in snow conditions that were not dangerous. This is a must for any climbers at altitude, many of those who have ignored this are no longer here to tell us there reason for not doing so. There were no untoward route finding problems with this peak and the small team was delighted with their achievement, once back safely in Base Camp In areas such as these the authors cannot have first hand knowledge of every peak and the changes that occur. They have to rely on regular feed back from climbers and guides to help them provide accurate information, so please help if you can. For many the great pleasures of climbing trekking peaks are the simplicity of it all. By going about it with the proper help, no matter how experienced you may be in other mountain areas, the selection of the right peak and route, getting the permit, the management of the walk in and logistics, the selection of the right alpine type climbing equipment and clothing, and the collating of regular weather updates is so straight forward. The challenges are there for all levels of skills from novice to seasoned climber, and all you have to remember is .If you dont know..Ask someone who does!

The accepted grade descriptions are as follows F ~ Easy scree or gentle snow or short slopes up to 30 degrees PD ~ Scrambling ground, slopes may be 40 degrees AD ~ Some pitched climbing on rock, snow/ice 45/50 degrees D ~ Sustained pitched climbing on rock, ice up to 50/60 degrees TD ~ Serious technical climbing, vertical ice. ED1 ~ Expect sustained vertical and overhanging sections ED2 ~ The Ed series is open ended, and gets harder with each generation of mountaineers

Since the beginning of this year, the peaks are as follows, Original Peaks Permitted since 1981and consolidated to one list in 2001 Manang Himal: Chulu West 6419m (21061ft) Chulu East 6584m (21602ft), Pisang 6091m (19985ft) Annapurna Himal: Hiunchuli 6441m (21133ft), Singu Chuli 6187m (21330ft) Mardi Himal 5587m (18331ft), Tharpu Chuli 5600m (18374ft) Rolwaling Himal: Ramdung 5925m (19440ft), Parchamo 6187m (20300ft) Ganesh Himal: Paldor 5896m (19345ft) Langtang Himal: Naya Kanga 5844m (19174ft) Khumbu Himal: Kusum Kangru 6367m (20890ft), Kwangde 6011m (19722ft), Loubche East 6119m (20076ft), Imja Tse 6160m (20211ft), Mera Peak 6654m (21832ft) Kongma Tse 5849m (19191ft) NMA Peak Permit Fees Since January 2001:1-4 persons US$350.00. 5-8 persons US$350.00 plus $ 40 per person. 9-12 people US$ 510.00 plus $25 per person. Additional Peaks On the occasion of Visit Nepal Year 1998 new peaks were opened as trekking peaks and the fees were waved for the 1998& 1999. Dolpo area: Kangtokla 6294m (2065ft) Langtang Himal: Yala 5732m (1880ft) Khumbu Himal: Chhukung Ri 5550m (18210ft), Gokyo Ri 5450m (1788ft) Lamjung area: Rambrong 4499m (14761ft) Taplejung area: Dama 6855m ( x0x0x0ft), Ramchaur 4500m (14765ft) Ramtang 6601m (21658ft), Tengkoma 6215m (20391ft) Up until 1998 minor peaks such as Gokyo Ri, Yala, and other lower peaks had been ascended under a trekking itinerary. Many Sherpa and local guides objected to this imposition and in the main no permits are sought. To check that fees have not changed, or to see if new peaks have been permitted, check with NMA PO BOX 1435, Kathmandu Nepal Fax: (01) 434578 E-mail: peaks@nma.wlink.com.np

Nigels Trekking Peak kit list PRIMARY ESSENTIALS Passport Money (US$ best), travelers cheques and credit cards Medical, evacuation and travel insurance CLOTHING Casual clothing for travel and whilst in Katmandu 1 set polyprop vest and long johns 1 lightweight shirt with collar 1 heavy weight shirt 1 fleece jacket 1 wind jacket I pair down pants (for Mustag Ata) 1 pair light weight trekking trousers 1 pair fleece trousers or salopettes (Mustag Ata) 1 pair wind pants (over trousers) 3 pairs of underwear one on, one wash, one spare 1 pair light weight gloves 1 pair motorcycle silk inners 1 sun hat 1 heavy weight warm hat (modern fleece Balaclava) 4 pairs light weight-walking socks 2 pairs climbing socks SLEEPING Sleeping bag system 1 lightweight 1 medium weight 1 thermo-rest or foam insulating mat FOOTWEAR 1 pair trekking boots or shoes 1 pair trainers 1 pair (ski) mountaineering boots EQUIPMENT 1 head lamp + spare bulbs and batteries 1 pocket knife (Swiss Army) 1good pair of sunglasses 1 pair glacier glasses, or both 1 pair ski gloves or overmitts

1 large pack (Mustag Ata) 1 Alpine(65/70 litre) rucksack 1 adjustable climbing harness 2 plain karabiners 2 screw lock karabiners 1 descender 1 pair ascenders 2 medium size tape slings 1 set prussic loops 1long ice axe 1 pair snap on crampons 1 pocket knife PERSONAL Camera and plenty of film video and spare batteries Reading material that can be swapped with others Diary and writing material 2 sun and lip cream 1 water bottle or flask 1 Pee Bottle Personal toilet equipment