Bamqueta alta de madera

Dimensions:

Dimensions: 16x16x50

Materials and Tools

Shopping List: 3 22 @ 8 feet long 1 23 @ 8 feet long

1/2 thick solid wood or plywood for seat 2 1/2 screws wood glue finishing supplies Tools: measuring tape square pencil safety glasses hearing protection drill compound miter saw sander level countersink drill bit

Step 1

Build on a flat surface. Assemble the back of the stool using the 50 inch legs. Predrill all holes, glue, and countersink screws. Attach 3 of the 23 (12.5 inches) boards for the backrest with centered screws. Attach the 23 seat rest board with the screw towards the top. Do not center this screw as you will have another screw coming into this board and you dont want them to hit. Attach the 22 back foot rest with screws in the center of the board. Be sure to square up every single angle and adjust screws as needed.

Step 2

Assemble the front of the stool using the 33 inch legs. Predrill all holes, glue, and countersink screws. Attach the 23 seat rest board with a screw towards the top. Attach the 22 front foot rest with a screw in the center of the board. Be sure to square up every single angle and adjust screws as needed.

Step 3

You will need to attach your back and front pieces together now Predrill all holes, glue, and countersink screws. Using a 23 (13 inches)board, attach this for the side of the seat rest. Put screws in towards the bottom so you dont hit your other screws. Attach the 22 (13 inches) flat side rest. Be sure to measure and measure again before cutting your mitered 45 degree angled piece. This piece is important for stability. Attach it under your side seat rest and above the side flat footrest. Repeat to complete other side. Be sure to square everything up and do this on a level surface. You may need to twist, push or pull things to get it square and make sure you tighten your screws.

Step 4

Assemble your seat. I cut mine out of a solid piece of pine. I got 4 seats out of a board that was 18 inches wide by 6 feet long. You could use plywood or just use 14 boards to make a seat. The front and side edges of the seat overhang by 1/2 inch. The back is flush with the backrest. You will have to notch out the board to go around the back legs. Attach with screws down through the seat and countersink. You could use right angle brackets attached to the bottom of the seat and inside of the seat rest boards if you want to avoid holes in the seat.

Finishing Instructions
Finish Used: Fill all holes and sand with 120 grit sandpaper. Finish as desired. I filled holes, sanded, put on primer, sanded again, primed again, and put on 2 coats of paint. I finished mine with Valspar Paint in Polar Star. You can even add cushions or slipcovers to these stools. These stools are sturdy enough that I feel safe letting my 6 and 3-year-old kids sit on them with supervision. Happy Building! We have an extra high island/bar in our home. From the floor to the top of the counter it measures 45.5 inches. This requires extra high bar stools of at least 33 inches in height. Bar stools at this height are either really expensive or really ornate. I love basic furniture and simple lines, so I designed a bar stool and cut wood to try a tester one. It worked so well that my husband and I built three more for a total of four bar stools. We have an extra high island/bar in our home. From the floor to the top of the counter it measures 45.5 inches. This requires extra high bar stools of at least 33 inches in height. Bar stools at this height are either really expensive or really ornate. I love basic furniture and simple lines, so I designed a bar stool and cut wood to try a tester one. It worked so well that my husband and I built three more for a total of four bar stools. Using cheap

wood and even with buying paint, each stool came in around $15. So for less than the cost of one stool I could have bought, I got 4 custom made stools! And I love them! You could use these plans for shorter stools, but you would need to cut off an equal amount on each leg and move the footrests and siderests up the same amount. While this is an easy stool to build, I put it at intermediate because it can be difficult to square up. It needs to be very square if you want a stable stool at this height. My plans were hand drawn on a piece of paper, but I attemped SketchUp for the first time to pass this on.

Taburete
Dimensions
Dimensions:

Dimensions: Dimensions are shown above. Stool is suitable for counter height (NOT bar height) use.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List: 1 22 @ 8 feet long 1 12 @ 10 feet long 1 112 @ 11 1/2 long or 12 plywood round, 3/4 thick 2 1/2 screws (for countersinking) or 1 1/4 pocket hole screws Wood glue, wood filler, sandpaper and finishing supplies Tools: measuring tape square pencil safety glasses

hearing protection drill compound miter saw sander level countersink drill bit

Cut List
Cut List: 4 22 @ 23 1/4 long, ends cut at a 5 degree angle AND a 5 degree bevel 4 12 @ 7, short point to short point, ends cut at a 5 degree angle NOT parallel to each other 2 12 @ 10 short point to short point, ends cut at a 5 degree angle NOT parallel to each other 2 12 @ 8 1/4 short point to short point, ends cut at a 5 degree angle NOT parallel to each other 2 12 @ 9 1/2 short point to short point, ends cut at a 5 degree angle NOT parallel to each other 2 12 @ 8 short point to short point, ends cut at a 5 degree angle NOT parallel to each other 1 112 @ 11 1/2 (cut to make a square, so measure the width of your 112) Cutting Instructions: To cut the legs, set you saw at a 5 degree angle and a 5 degree bevel. Trim off the end of the 22 as close to the end as you can. Then measure 23 1/4 along the same edge and make a cut. Youve got one leg. Continue simply sliding the board down and making more cuts (using the last boards cut as your first cut) until you have four legs. You should be able to get all four cuts out of one eight foot long 22. For the supports and rungs, all ends are cut at a 5 degree angle, NO BEVEL. Also unlike the legs, the ends will NOT be parallel to each other. Simply make a five degree cut, flip your board over by simply rotating it 180 degrees as you would rotate a rolling pin and measure the cut, short point to short point. Make another 5 degree cut.

Step 1

Mark Legs Because the angle on the legs is only five degrees and is a double bevel, it is easy to loose track of the correct position of your legs. Stand your legs up as shown above, and mark the inside corners. Always remember that these corners will be to the inside of the leg.

Step 2

Top Supports You will need to build two of the above legs sets, as shown above.

Step 3

Additional Rungs Add the additional rungs as shown above. Dont forget the glue.

Step 4

Top Supports Attach the remaining top supports to join the two leg frames as shown above.

Step 5

Additional Rungs This step should be as easy as just adding the additional rungs. But I found my stool getting seriously crooked and making me wonder . . . where did I get off so bad? What was happening is the stool was simply getting off square. So have someone hold the stool down so that the four legs are resting squarely on the work surface (NO WOBBLE) and attach the rungs with the stool held square.

Step 6

Top Attach the top as shown above. I screwed through the top supports into the underside of the top to hide screw holes.

How to make a wall mounted folding work bench

Marcelo was kind enough to send us a couple of photos of a wall mounted folding work bench that he made and designed. This work bench is ideal for tight spaces and we thought that the bench was well worth posting online so that others might benefit from his handy work. Unfortunately no measurements or instructions accompanied the photos so we took a guess of the size and come up with some figures of our own. Scroll down for our version of the plans and a few direction notes.

Dear Sirs: I'm from Argentina, very far away at the south, I built an Adirondack chair using the plans from your web site. Thanks a lot. I'm sending to you a pair of photos, of a working table that I designed, so you can put them in your freeplans section. Kind Regards Marcelo. The plans for a wall mounted work bench

All the parts [a] 50x50 (2x2) upright members that are fixed to the wall. [b] Top shelf. Constructed of two pieces of 150x50 (2x6) wood, two pieces of 50x50 (2x2) wood one each end of the shelf and one piece of 25x25 wood along one edge of the shelf.

[c] Lower shelf. Constructed of two pieces of 150x50 (2x6) wood, two pieces of 50x50 (2x2) wood one each end of the shelf and one piece of 25x25 (1x1) wood along one edge of the shelf. [d] 25x25 (1x1) wood that runs along one edge of each shelf and also on top of member [e]. [e] 50x25 (1x2) wood. Runs horizontal and sits on top of the two uprights [a]. [f] 50x50 (2x2) wood. Fixed brace that supports the lower shelf. [g] 50x25 (1x2) wood. Moving brace that supports the top shelf. [h] Wire cable or chain. [i] 150x50 (2x6) wood. Part of the shelves, both top and lower. [j] 50x50 (2x2) wood. Part of the shelves, both top and lower. A few directional notes Materials You will need 3600mm (12ft) of 50x50 (2x2) wood, 2100mm (7ft) of 50x25 (1x2) wood and 2100mm (7ft) of 25x25 (1x1) wood. Note: If the wood that you use is dressed or surfaced, then the size (width and thickness) will be less than the sizes nominated above. Make any necessary adjustments. You will also need a hook catch to hold the top shelf in place when it is in the raised position, Wire cable or chain to hold the top shelf in place when it is in the lowered position, necessary wall fixings (see below) and assorted nails and/or screws. Wall fixing The upright members [a] will need to be fixed securely to the wall with appropriate screws or anchors. In a standard lumber frame wall the upright members should be fixed directly to a vertical stud or horizontal block within the frame. Use 100mm (4") screws positioned as shown in the plan above. Click here for more info about how to find studs in a standard lumber frame wall. In a masonry wall the upright members can be fixed directly to the wall using appropriate anchor bolts or similar types of masonry screws or bolts. Wire cable or chain Use wire cable (similar to that used on a bicycle brake) or chain to hold the top shelf in place when it is in the lowered position. Most important measurements The two most important measurements are...... The distance between the holes (pivoting points) in the moving braces (members [g]) and also the fixing points on the top shelf [b] and upright [a]. A little bit of trial and error might be needed when determining these measurements to ensure that the top shelf is level when it is in either the raised position or the lowered position. And...... The length of the wire cable should be just long enough to ensure that the top shelf is held firmly in position when it is in the lowered position.