Acknowledgement

We take this opportunity to thank our faculty Mr. C. A. Rayan, A s s o c i a t e P r o f e s s o r , f o r m e r R I C a n d o u r s u b j e c t f a c u l t y , who took all pain and left no stone unturned in giving us the theme and concept behind the subject. Whenever w e came under any difficulty he was always there not just to solve our problem but also to show and guide us along the correct path . We would also like to express our gratefullness to Mr. Shivlingam, Course Coordinator, Fashion and Textile Design for taking time from his busy schedule to explain us the tests which are foremost and important in garment manufacturing process. We would also like to express our gratitude to Mr. Shashi Bhusan, GM-SilverSpark Apparels,Raymonds Ltd. who took time in his busy schedule to come and explain to us the product development and analysis process.

Nishant Kumar Rahul Choudhury

2|Page

3|Page

Contents
1. Introduction .................................................................................................................................................... 5 1. 1. Subject brief ................................................................................................................................ 5

1. 2. Objective......................................................................................................................................... 5 1. 3. Scope of Learning ............................................................................................................................ 5 1 . 4 . Trousers ...................................................................................................................................... 6 1.5. Product History ................................................................................................................................ 6 2. Product Analysis ...................................................................................................................................... 9 2.2. Reason for choosing the garment ................................................................................................................... 9 2.3. Process of Product Development ..................................................................................................... 11 2.4. Garment components classification: ............................................................................................... 12 2.5 Garment component details: ........................................................................................................ 12 2.6Process of conversion ..................................................................................................................... 13 2 .7 Product Specification Sheet ............................................................................................................... 15 3. Test Report ................................................................................................................................................ 23 4. Raw Material Analysis ............................................................................................................................... 26 5. 6. Sourcing .............................................................................................................................................. 27 Bill 0f Material ................................................................................................................................... 35 Production planning ......................................................................................................................... 40

7. Operation Breakdown ................................................................................................................... 37 8.

4|Page

Introduction 1. 1. Subject brief The product analysis and development is aimed at developing the garment from a given sample. The main idea behind the subject is to simulate a situation when an individual desiring to establish his own garment unit undergoes various research and other processes involved in the whole development process. The various processes include fabric selection, fabric sourcing, trim selection and sourcing, fabric and trims testing, development of sample production planning for bulk production (10,000pcs) and p r o d u c t r e p l i c a t i o n etc. The garment we selected for our Product Analysis and Development is a mens formal trouser of size 34

1. 2. Objective To understand the methodology of development of the product. To understand the raw materials in terms of their content, performance, care and maintenance for the intended end use. To explore the sources, costs and time for procurement of the raw materials. Understand the Communication Pattern with Buyers & Deepen the understanding of interaction between various functions (Depts.) To analyse the garment from an aesthetic and functional view point. To develop an industrial pattern and mock sample and analyze it. To develop the sample according to sample specifications To understand and become familiar with t h e process requirements for the production of the garment. 1. 3. Scope of Learning The subject is providing a great scope to learn how the garment production process starts from scratch. Starting from the very beginning of design concept, which begins in the design studio of the buyer, and then goes from the rigorous process of sourcing, cutting, manufacturing, warehousing, shipping and then supplying to each stores. The subject tries to give us practical experience by simulating the s i m i l a r situation o n a smaller scale. The garment w h i c h we have chosen, we will be doing sourcing, pattern making, tech pack generation, and then sewing and packing. This whole simulation process will give us the edge, and make us face and solve the problems which occur in garment manufacturing units.

5|Page

1 . 4 . Trousers In our course of product analysis and development we chose to design and make a formal mens trouser. A trouser is a cloth garment for the lower body. Trousers are an item of clothing worn on the lower part of the body from the waist to the ankles, covering both legs separately (rather than with cloth stretching across both as in skirts and dresses). The word trousers is used in the UK and Ireland, but some other English-speaking countries such as Canada, South Africa, and the United States can also refer to such items of clothing as pants. Additional synonyms include slacks, strides, kegs or kex, breeches or breeks. Shorts are similar to trousers, but with legs that come down only to around the area of the knee, higher or lower than the knee depending on the style of the garment. In most of the Western world, trousers have been worn since ancient times and throughout the Medieval period, becoming the most common form of lower body clothing for males in the modern period, although shorts are also widely worn, and kilts and other garments may be worn in various regions and cultures. Shorts are often preferred in hot weather or for some sports, and also often by children. Since the late 20th century, trousers have become prevalent for females as well. Trousers are worn at the hips or waist, and may be held up by their own fastenings, a belt, or suspenders (braces). Leggings are form-fitting trousers of a clingy material, often knitted cotton and lycra. Nowadays various man-made fabrics like polyester, viscose etc. or their blends are used in creating trouser of better quality and functionality 1.5. Product History Trousers first enter recorded history in the 6th century BCE, with the appearance of horseriding Iranian peoples in Greek ethnography. At this time, not only the Persians, but also allied Central Asian peoples such as the Bactrians, Armenians, and the Tigraxauda Scythians are known to have worn them. Trousers are believed to have been worn by both sexes among these early users. The ancient Greeks used the term anaxyrides for the trousers worn by eastern nations and " sarabara for the loose trousers worn by the Scythians. Republican Rome viewed the draped clothing of Egypt, Babylon, Greece, and Minoan (Crete) culture as an emblem of civilization and disdained trousers as the mark of barbarians.

About 1760 most men begin wearing breeches, a tight garment worn from the waist to the knee with stockings covering the rest of the leg, "Britches" was an informal word for breeches. Prior to this men were wearing various form if skirts and dresses (but that's another story). Pantaloons (where we get the word pants) were made popular in 1812 by George Bryan "Beau" Brummell who wore his with a foot strap (like modern ski pants) to keep the pants tight and avoid creases. Brummell, buddy to the future Hind George IV, developed a dress
6|Page

code that anyone, not just royalty, could follow. He dispensed fashion tips and stressed cleanliness (a novel idea for the time). During the French Revolution, the male citizens of France adopted a working-class costume including ankle-length trousers, or pantaloons, in place of the aristocratic knee-breeches. The new garment of the revolutionaries differed from that of the ancien regime upper classes in three ways: It was loose where the style for breeches had most recently been form-fitting, it was ankle length where breeches had generally been knee-length for more than two centuries, and they were open at the bottom while breeches were fastened. This style was introduced to England in the early 19th century, by Beau Brummell, and by midcentury had supplanted breeches as fashionable street wear. At this point, even knee length pants adopted the open bottoms of trousers and were worn by young boys, for sports, and in tropical climates. Pantaloon first appeared as an English word in the 1600's and from the Italian comedy character Pantaleone who wore the first loose "clowns pants". Eventually the characters name came to mean the pants he wore. In England pants still refers only to underwear. The French revolution of 1789 was also a revolt against breeches as being too upper class. The country peasant trouser look was in. Trousers probably derived from the words trousers-- drawers, trousses--trunk hose, and/or trousse--to cover, truss. They were looser than the tight pantaloon were favored for daytime wear while pantaloons were more evening attire. Trousers were over breeches when horseback riding to keep the more formal clothes clean. Sailors had been wearing the looser fit work trousers since the 1580s since they allowed them to roll up the legs for wading ashore or climbing rigging. In 1846 Sir Harry Lumsden, commanding as English troop in Punjab, India traded in his bright white trousers for pajama bottoms to find relief from the heat. To disguise them he colored them to blend with the local terrain using mazari, a native plant. Thus the birth of Khaki, the Hindu word for "dust". Khaki went from India to the Kaffir War in South Africa in 1851, and then after the Sudan Wars and Afghan Campaign of 1878 it was adopted in 1884 as official uniform. The same year khaki-order dye was adopted by other armies including America for the Spanish-America War in 1898.Short pants were also an English military invention to keep defending the far flung Empire. Bermuda shorts were won down to the knee and named after the British island. Oscar Wild tried reintroduce breeches in 1890, but wasnt successful until 1925 .The measurement of these loose pants at the leg bottom reached even 40 inches!! Invented and embraced by English Oxford University students, Bags were inspired by the loose trousers that oarsmen slipped on over their shorts. The extreme fashion did not last long, and gradually dwindled from1928. Although not s extreme, another attempt at wide bottoms came when Pierre Cardin popularized bell bottoms in the 60's as a reaction to the new narrow shoulder suits. Jeans were also effected and affected during that time.
7|Page

Another word which is interchangeable with pants and trousers is slacks, which was coined by the Haggar Corporation in the 1940s as a promotion for their casuals pants, to be worn during your "slack" time between work and sports. Sailors may have played a role in the worldwide dissemination of trousers as a fashion. In the 17th and 18th centuries, sailors wore baggy trousers known as galligaskins. Sailors also pioneered the wearing of jeans, trousers made of denim. These became more popular in the late 19th century in the American West because of their ruggedness and durability

8|Page

2. Product Analysis

The garment we replicated is a basic mens fomal pants made of 65% polyester and 35% viscose. The
garment is made for European consumers by the brand Marks and Spencers manufactured by K Mohan Limited in Bangalore.

2.2. Reason for choosing the garment

One of the main reasons behind selecting this garment is that we wanted to make something which we have not done before as during our course-curriculum in garment construction we didnt get a chance to know about the finer details of creating a trouser Moreover as both of us had undergone our internships at shirt manufacturing units our knowledge of trousers, such an important part of mens attire and one of the most sought after apparel products, taking up our project in mens formal trousers was both a challenge and a new learning experience.

9|Page

Our product which is manufactured by K. Mohan Pvt. Ltd. for European consumers by Marks & Spencer is in itself an international quality product and helped is in analysing the finer details of construction and quality parameters.

10 | P a g e

2.3. Process of Product Development There are a number of processes which were included in the product development process. Beginning from the very nascent stage of research it runs upto shipping and in some cases upto sales. The various processes un de rt a ke n for the analysis and development of the product which we had taken from our sample product included various stages starting from the 1. Analysis of the sample 2. Sourcing of the materials required 3. Preparation of the bill of material. 4. Tech-pack 5. Test report 6. Development of the patterns, 7. Marker planning 8. Spreading and cutting 9. Stitching 10. Finishing and 11. Packaging with a report in general, the following course of actions is followed in product development process of apparels

Research

Testing

Production pattern

Packaging

Design

Concept
Market

Pattern adoption

Grading

Finishing

Screening
Fabric Sourcing

Sample fit

Marker Plan

Sewing

Prototype pattern

Spreading

Cutting

11 | P a g e

2.4. Garment components classification:

Fabric Shell fabric Pocketing fabric Trims Zipper Thread Velcro Labels Buttons 2.5 Garment component details: Shell fabric Trims fabric (pocketing) Eyelets Piping in side seam Velcro Zipper Wash care label, Size label and brand label Welt pockets Side slant pockets Thread 65% viscose Polyester 100% cotton 8 2, white color, polyester 2, CF and back pocket 1, plastic On back pocket lining 1, Back side 2, both sides 2 ply thread polyester 35%

12 | P a g e

2.6Process of conversion The process of converting the concept to the product development can be summarised as the following activities: 2.6.1Study of the garment 2.6.1.1Design First step is to study the design of the garment and the feasibility to produce it with the available resources. 2.6.1.2Material requirement After studying the design, we list down the material requirement for the garment 2.6.2.Sourcing of materials 2.6.2.1Sourcing of fabric The first process is to source the fabric as the lead time for fabric is more than other materials required. 2.6.2.2Sourcing of trims Trims sourcing is done after fabric sourcing. 2.6.3 Testing Different types of tests are performed before producing the garment to make sure that the product is as per the standard.

We have done the following tests in our garment: 1.Fiber composition 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Colourfastness to washing Colourfastness to rubbing Colourfastness to light Breaking strength Yarn count Seam slippage Fabric type/ structure Yarn twist etc.

2.6.3.Development of pattern 2.6.3.1Pattern making

13 | P a g e

Generally patterns of medium size are made and then they are graded to different sizes based on the grading chart.

1.1.1. Pattern grading From the basic size, increment or decrement in measurements are done to make the garments of different sizes. 1.1.2. Marker making Marker is planned before cutting for best efficiency and utilization of fabric. 1.2. Conversion of final product 1.2.1. Operation breakdown Before starting the construction, the garment is broken down into small operation and arranged in sequence. 1.2.2. Construction Final step to convert it into final product is the construction of garment. This includes the cutting, fusing, sewing and finishing activities required to accomplish the construction of a garment.

14 | P a g e

2.4 Product Specification Sheet

A product specification sheet or Spec sheet or a t e c h p a c k is informative sheet which encompasses all the specifications of the requirements before embarking on the garment manufacturing process. It contains all the details of any specific style of the garment. This document is usually prepared by the designer and finalized in consultation with the merchandisers, and then forwarded to bulk sampling department or to the production department for the reference and guide for bulk manufacturing. The Objective of any Spec sheet is, once techpack for any style is frozen, the production department must be able to go ahead with the manufacturing process without having to refer back to the designer for any aspect of production. The merchandisers are thus able to go ahead and ensure that the required material as per the techpack is made available to the production department, in the right quantities at the right time. The marketing department can use this document in their presentation, particularly to the large format stores and their key customers. The preparation of a techpack and using it to manage and co-ordinate various activities in production brings in efficiency within the company as, various departments refers to the common document for discussion or carrying out any activity. Almost all garment manufacturing companies prepare a techpack. In many cases, the cutting instructions or job card issued to production acts as the techpack. However, the details given in the techpack are likely to vary with the sizes of the company. Large manufacturing companies generally have a detailed techpack for each of the styles under production, for the simple reason that any manufacturing that is not in line with what was desired results in a huge production loss. For exporters, preparation of a techpack is almost mandatory, as the buyers prefer to sign on the techpack before placing the order or would send in a techpack themselves.

15 | P a g e

TROUSER TECHPACK LINE GROUP Formal BRAN D Marks & Spenc ers LINE Smart fit

ILLUSTRATION SHEET TARGET FAMILY Mens Trouser RELEASE 10 /03/201 2 SEASON Summer Spring 12

FIT AS LOOK Smart Durable press HOW TO PACK THIS GARMENT sms: Folded from supplier: FOLDED Recovered:

to shop: Folded

16 | P a g e

TROUSER TECHPACK LINE GROUP Formal BRAND Marks & Spencer s LINE Smart fit

FABRIC SPECIFICATION SHEET TARGET FAMILY Mens Trouser RELEASE 10/03/2 012 SEASON Summer Spring 12

S NO 1.

COMPONENT Main fabric

DESCRIPTION PV blended fabric GSM FIBRE CONTENT FABRICATIO N WEAVE COUNT YARN COUNT FINISH 160 Polyester and viscose Polyester 65% Viscose 35% Plain 52 x 48 2/30 x 2/30 Wrinkle free

POSITION

2.

Second fabric

Poplin GSM FIBRE CONTENT FABRICATIO N WEAVE COUNT YARN COUNT 120 Cotton Cotton 100% Plain 132 x 64 40 x 40

17 | P a g e

TROUSER TECHPACK LINE GROUP Formal BRAN D Marks & Spenc er LINE Smart fit

ACCESSORY SPECIFICATION SHEET TARGET Mens FAMILY Trouser RELEAS E 10/03/ 2012 SEASON Summer Spring 12

ACCESSORIES S NO. 1 2 COMPONENT Tape Button DESCRIPTION Same Colorway 6 mm width. Plastic with Same Colorway 16 mm diameter POSITION Inside to the centre back. Inside to the waist band and along with the middle line. At the distance of 10 cm from right fly edge and centre of waist band. Both 20 mm below from upper attachment of body and back pocket (centre of the horizontal line). Zipper attachment at front crotch. Attachment of back pocket shell with body. At zipper attachments. Applied to inside right back-pocket at the centre.

3 4 5

Zipper Fusing Main label

Same Colorway Microdot

COMPONENTS OF PACKAGING S NO 1 2 3 4 5 DESCRIPTION POLYBAG - Neutral polybag thick 3 TAG - Marks & Spencers tag,size label,wash care label POLYTHREAD 2 ply Zipper Button QUANTITY 1 1 1 1 1

TROUSER TECHPACK

INSTRUCTION SHEET

18 | P a g e

LINE GROUP Formal

BRAND LINE Marks & Smart fit Spencers

TARGE T Mens

FAMILY RELEAS Trouse E r 10/03/ 2012

SEASON Summer Spring 12

CARE SYMBOLS

INSTRUCTIONS LABELS MAIN LABEL: applied to inside right back-pocket at the centre. COMPOSITION - CARE SYMBOLS LABEL: applied to inside waist band to the left front at the distance of 11 cm from the zipper. PRICE TAG PRICE TAG: applied with polythread 18 cm long on back pocket lining PACKING PACKING: folded in double way in vertical sense with the right back visible size 12; folded in double way in vertical sense with the front inside the folding and then folded again with the right back visible for the remaining sizes. POLYBAG: During the first phases of garment folding, insert the desiccant bag to the inside folding itself. PRODUCTION BARTACKS: Bartacks having variable length taken from cm.1 to cm 1.4 must be adjusted to 28 stitches. Bartacks having variable length taken from cm.1.5 to cm must be adjusted to 36 stitches. TESTING: abrasion resistance, shrinkage, tear strength & Hygral expansion test. COLOURWAY Main fabric, second fabric, tape, and sewing thread should be of same colour code.

TROUSER TECHPACK LINE GROUP Formal BRAN D Marks & Spence LINE Smart fit TARGET Mens

OPERATION SPECIFICATION SHEET FAMILY Trouser RELEAS E 10/03/ 2012 SEASON Summer Spring 12

19 | P a g e

rs

S NO.

OPERATION

STITCH TYPE 301 -

MACHINE SPI USED SNLS Bartacki ng SNLS SNLS SNLS Bartacki ng SNLS Fusing SNLS 8 -

SEAM

Front Pocket Preparation 1 2 Slant Pocket preparation Bartacking SSs, SSc, SSj -

Zipper Attachment 1 2 3 4 Fly formation + Zipper attachment Raw edge finishing J-stitch Bartacking 301 301 301 8 8 8 SSs, SSc, SSj Bs -

Double Lip Welt Preparation (Back Pocket) 1 2 3 Lip preparation Fusing Pocket Shell Preparation 301 301 8 8 SSs Ls

Inseam/ Sideseam 1 2 3 Inseam/Sideseam Attachment Raw edge Finishing (Overlock) Raw edge Finishing (crotch) 301 503 301 SNLS 3-thread overlock SNLS 8 8 SSi Bs

Hemming 1 Hemming 301 SNLS 8 SSp

TROUSER TECHPACK LINE GROUP BRAN D Marks LINE Smart TARGET Mens

OPERATION SPECIFICATION SHEET FAMILY Trouser RELEAS E 10/03/

20 | P a g e

SEASON Summer

Formal

& Spence rs

fit

2012

Spring 12

S NO.

OPERATION

STITCH TYPE

MACHINE SPI USED

SEAM

Waist band 1 2 Waist band preparation Inner (supporting) layer preparation and attachment with main body. Loop attachment to main body Waist band attachment with main body Loop attachment to waistband 301 201 SNLS HAND NEEDLE Bartacki ng SNLS Bartacki ng 8 3 Bs Bs

3 4 5

301 -

8 -

Bs -

TROUSER TECHPACK LINE GROUP BRAN D LINE Smart TARGET Boys &

MEASUREMENT SPECIFICATION SHEET FAMILY RELEAS E SEASON Summer

21 | P a g e

Formal

Marks & Spence rs

fit

Mens

Trouser

10/03/ 2012

Spring 12

S NO. 1

MEASUREMENTS ABDOMINAL ARC HIP ARC FRONT BACK

26 8 8 9 9 9 8 10 14 12 9 10 38 23 40 26 62 21 18 26

28 9 8 3/8 9 9 7/8 9 9 10 14 12 9 10 38 23 3/8 40 26 63 22 23 28

30 9 8 9 10 9 9 10 15 13 9 10 39 23 41 27 65 23 19 30

32 9 7/8 9 1/8 10 1/8 10 5/8 9 9 10 15 13 10 10 39 24 1/8 41 28 66 24 20 32

34 10 3/8 9 5/8 10 5/8 11 1/8 10 9 11 16 14 10 11 40 24 42 24 68 25 21 34

FRONT BACK

HIP DEPTH

FRONT BACK

4 5 6 7 8 9

CROTCH DEPTH KNEE CALF SIDE HIP DEPTH ANKLE WAIST TO ANKLE WAIST TO KNEE WAIST TO FLOOR

10

CROTCH LENGTH VERTICAL TRUNK

11

UPPER THIGH MID THIGH

12

WAIST

Pocket Measurements 1 BACK POCKET WIDTH 7

22 | P a g e

2 3 4 5

LIP WIDTH BACK POCKET LENGTH FRONT POCKET LENGTH LOOP LENGTH

6 7 2

Measurement Guidelines; 500 Relaxed Measure from side to side along the inside of the waistband at the top edge. 501Extended For extended measurements, measure as above with elastic or knit fully extended. 601 Hip/Seat Lay the garment flat. The center front waistband will lay approximately 1" below the center back waistband. From the fly bartack, measure straight across the garment from side to side. 703 Thigh Width Lay the garment flat and fold the pant leg along the inseam. Measure 1" below the crotch seam intersection, from inseam to outside fold, perpendicular to the front crease.

3. Test Report

The fabric was tested at INTERTEK INDIA Pvt Ltd which is a which is a trusted name in facbric testing parameters and performs different types of fabric tests. For testing they follow ISO as well as American standards.

23 | P a g e

24 | P a g e

25 | P a g e

5. Raw Material Analysis

Material procurement is a time taking process which aims at scouring the supplier market to get the best of the material in terms of quality as well as price. While doing the material procurement analysis of our garment we !rst of all made the bill of material of what are the things that we would be needing and in what quantity. Then we decided the quality as per the speci!cations and !nally we went to the market for enlisting which are the supplier that could manage with the supply of the material with the top quality and shortest lead time. POLYESTER VISCOSE FABRIC This is a rich mixture of both polyester and viscose fibre giving lustre and durability to the fabric. This comes in various blends from 50/50 to 80/20.

26 | P a g e

Polyester Viscose Fabric are known to give comfort excel with added value of durability & easy maintenance. Polyester Viscose Fabric is very durable: resistant to most chemicals, stretching and shrinking, wrinkle resistant, mildew and abrasion resistant. Our product consists of 65% polyester & 35% viscose TRIMS & ACCESSORIES The product consists of the following trims and accessories Interlining : of 100% cotton. Threads : Zippers Buttons Fusing Labels

2. 3.

4. Sourcing
4.1. Fabric sourcing
4.1.1. Body fabric- 65% viscose 35%polyester

Supplier 1 Supplier name The Karnataka Handloom Development

27 | P a g e

Corporation Limited Address "Venkatadri Heights" Kiresur Complex, Unkal Cross, Hubli - 580 031, India +(91)-(836)-2277504/2277509 +(91)-9448455754 Contact Person Website Min order quantity Lead time Rate Mr. Sushil Mehta http://www.khdcltd.com/ 100 meters 45 days Rs 350 per meter

Phone no

Supplier 2 Supplier name Address Phone no Contact Person Min order quantity Lead time Rate Soimex Garments Services Pvt. Ltd. G-9, Ramanashree Chambers,37, Lady Curzon Road, Bangalore- 560001 91-80-22201823/30618655/22263404 Mr. Mahendra Nager 500 meter 30-35 days Rs 300 per meter

4.1.2. Pocketing fabric- 100% cotton

Supplier 1

28 | P a g e

Supplier name Pallava Textiles Limited Address 24, Sankari Main Road, Pallipalayam, Erode - 638 006, India +(91)-9843132070 Mr. S.K. Raja http://www.vortexyarn.com/ 100 meters 30 days Rs 65 per meter Supplier 2 Supplier name Address Phone no Contact Person Min order quantity Lead time Rate Khemchand Bros 126, Devatha Market, Chickpet, Bangalore 080- 22243419 Mr. N.S Chhabra 100 meters 20 days Rs 70 per meter

Phone no Contact Person Website Min order quantity Lead time Rate

4.2.

Trims suppliers
4.2.1. Buttons
29 | P a g e

Supplier 1 Supplier name Address Gajendra Enterprises No. 307, Pette Chinnappa Estate, Kamakshipalya, Bengaluru - 560 079, +(91)-(80)-23580649 +(91)-9341276368/9880679502 Min order quantity Lead time Rate 10 gross 8-10 days Rs. 180 per gross

Phone no

Supplier 2 Supplier name Address Mahaveer Button House Shop-1, 144/38, V R Complex, Kumbarpet, Kumbarpet, Bengaluru 080 22222547 Any quantity 10 days Rs. 200 per gross

Phone no Min order quantity Lead time Rate

30 | P a g e

4.2.2. Fusing

Supplier 1 Supplier name Address Bharath Fushing

S. F. No 28, K .Kamaraj Nagar, K P G Nagar, 4th Cross Extension Ganapathy, Coimbatore - 641 006, India

Phone no Min order quantity Lead time Rate

: +(91)-9865021628/9865394201 2 rolls (one roll has 25 mt) 5 days Rs. 200 per roll

Supplier 2 Supplier name Address Apparel Services Network

G 2, Archana Apartments, 26 Norris road, Richmond town, Bangalore +(91)-(422)3025469/6450983 1 roll 10 days Rs. 175-190 per roll

Phone no Min order quantity Lead time Rate

31 | P a g e

4.2.3. Labels
Supplier 1 Supplier name Address Jaya associates

21st floor, Gullappa building, R.S. Palya, Kammanahali main road, Bangalore 080-2454100 1500 10 days Main label- Rs. 0.50 / label Size label-Rs 0.25 / label Care label- Rs 0.50/ label

Phone no Min order quantity Lead time Rate

Supplier 1 Supplier name Address Infomax labels solutions C Babureddy Industrial Compound, Opposite Bhavani Jewellers, Begur Road, Hongasandra, Bommanahalli, Bangalore 080-66498743 1000 10 days

Phone no Min order quantity Lead time

32 | P a g e

Rate

Main label- Rs. 0.50 / label Size label-Rs 0.25 / label Care label- Rs 0.50/ label

4.2.4. Zipper
Supplier 1 Supplier name Address Phone no Min order quantity Lead time Rate Zip Industries Limited 304 A, 100 Bengaluru 080 25251435 500 15 days Rs 2.5-3 Supplier 2 Kesar Fasteners Feet Road, Indiranagar,

Supplier name

Address

12/24, Baba Market, O.K. road, Bangalore

Phone no

N/A

Min order quantity

500

Lead time

15 days

33 | P a g e

Rate

Rs 3

4.2.5. Thread

Supplier 1 Supplier name Address Madura coats pvt ltd India

7th floor, Jupiter block, Prestige tech park, Ring road, Bangalore

Phone no Min order quantity Lead time Rate

+(91)-(80)3025469/6450983 5 boxes (1 box- 10 cubes; 1 cube-500 mt) 5 days Rs 80-90 per box

Supplier 2 Supplier name Vardhman Threads

34 | P a g e

Address

101 & 102, J B Kaval, K.H.D. colony, Nandini Layout post, Yeshwantpur, Bangalore

Phone no Min order quantity Lead time Rate

080-41248892 3 boxes 5 days Rs 80 per box

5. Bill 0f Material

Style # Description Fabrication Construction Special Finish Proto Size Label Season Gender

T18-00185/3231H Formal Trouser Viscose -35%, Polyester-65% (30s) L Marks and Spencers Fall 11 Male

Supplier name

Description

Cost (INR)

Unit Cons./trouser

Cost/trouser (INR)

Clearing / Freight@20% (INR)

Total Cost /trouser (INR)

T & S Buttons Srilanka Guttermann

Plastic Buttons16L Thread-120 Tkt

75 536

2 200+30 yard

1.04 8.5

0.20

1.24 8.5

35 | P a g e

Mahaveer Labels Bangalore

Main Label Size label Wash Care label(satin) Hang Tag Barcode Stickers PVC Patti Paper Patti Tissue Paper Back Support Polybag Y-Clips Silver Head Pin

0.55 0.3 0.5 2.000 1.000 2.8 0.38 1.57 3.2 2.2 0.54 0.12 0.83 75.00 50 100

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 3 2 1 0.050 0.25 1

0.55 0.30 0.50 2.000 1.000 2.800 0.380 3.140 3.200 2.200 1.620 0.240 0.830 3.750 2.5 5 Total

0.55 0.30 0.50 2.00 1.00 2.80 0.38 3.14 3.20 2.20 1.62 0.24 0.83 3.75 2.5 5 39.75

Manu Graphics Bangalore

Manu Graphics Bangalore Giriraj packaging Bangalore Madeira Bangalore

Carton/Pre-pack sticker Carton Box Microdot fusing zipper

Material Item FABRIC Viscose -35%, Polyester-65% 100% cotton

Type/Placement

Quantity /Unit

Color

Cost(Rs.)

Body Pocket Bag & waistband

1.2mtr 1mtr TOTAL

Grey White

350/mtr(420 65/mtr 485

TRIMS Button Zipper Fusing Plastic 2 1 0.25 Grey Grey White Note : the dimensions are mentioned as length and breadth Black White Type : Black Font : Arial Narrow White Type : Black 1

LABELS

Main Label:1/21/8 13/8 below waistband Size label woven 25/8 below label size:2/1.5 waistband

1 1

Wash Care:25/8/1

25/8 below waistband

0.75

36 | P a g e

THREADS Thread 2 ply THROUGHOUT , serging 5 thread O/L Body : Lock stitch at the pocket finish, bottom hem Body : stitch at the waist band 200 yards Grey

White Thread 2 ply 25

Thread 2 ply

34

White

Total 485+39.75 = Rs. 524.75

7. Operation Breakdown
S. NO. OPERATION DESCRIPTION MACHINE TYPE SAM

1 2 3

W/B Extension Back Pocket Facing Front Pocket Facing

SNLS Auto Facing Attach Auto Facing Attach

0.32 0.18 0.38

Front Pocket O/L

5T O/L

0.32

5 6 7

Front Pocket Turning Fly Serging Fly stitch to Front

Manual 5T O/L SNLS

0.23 0.30 0.26

37 | P a g e

20 21 22 25 26 27 29 30 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58

Stitch Side Pocket to Front Side Pocket Ironing Side Pocket Tacking Back Panel Serging Dart Marking Auto Dart Making Auto-welt Back Pocket Corner Stitch Welt Back Press Welt Front Press Back Pocket Loop Marking Back Pocket Loop Attach Welt Closing Back Pocket Pouch Closing Welt Pocket Bartack Back Loop Bartack Back Loop Press Back Loop Stitch J Fly Zip Attach Cut and Gape Zip Straight Fly Zip Attach Inseam O/L Sideseam O/L Seam Press Front Panel serging

5T O/L Steam Press BAR tack Auto 5T O/L Manual+Template Auto SNLS Auto Welt m/c SNLS Steam Press Steam Press Manual+Template SNLS SNLS SNLS Bartack Bartack Steam Press SNLS SNCS w Roller Feed YKK Zip Cutting m/c SNLS 5T O/L 5T O/L Auto 5T O/L Corosel Press Corosel Press 5T O/L

0.62 0.23 0.69 0.28 0.19 0.48 0.57 0.76 0.38 0.31 0.27 0.71 0.28 0.95 0.33 0.05 0.06 0.08 0.08 0.04 0.14 0.65 0.58 0.75 0.25

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

W/B Iron W/B Attachment Marking Seat Seam Joining Beltloop Attachment W/B Attachment

Steam Press Manual + Template 5T O/L 5T O/L SNLS SNLS

0.68 0.33 0.65 0.49 1.00

38 | P a g e

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 35 37 38 39 40 41 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52

Left Extention Lock Extention Turn & Press Right Extention Lock Rt Extention Hook Attach W/B Center Back Marking Lt Extention Bar Attach Front Rise Stitch J Stitch W/B Label Attach Wash Care & Size Label Attach J Stitch Bar Tack Bar tack Front Pocket Seat Seam Press W/B Button Hole Back Pocket Button Attach Inline Inspection Label Fold & Tack W/B Button Attach and ditch stitch Belt Loop Down Belt Loop Up Bottom Hem O/L Buttom Blind Hem

SNLS Steam Press SNLS Hook Attaching m/c Manual + Wax marker Manual SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS Bartacking m/c Bartacking m/c Steam Press Keyhole Making m/c Button Attaching m/c Manual Manual SNLS Button Attaching m/c Bartacking m/c Bartacking m/c Bartacking m/c FLAT LOCK MANUAL

0.31 0.39 0.29 0.30 0.36 0.31 0.30 0.33 0.51 0.58 0.33 0.36 0.28 0.30 0.27 0.31 0.67 0.28 1.53 0.38 0.68 0.39 0.36

Trimming

Trimmer

2.18

Endline Inspection (Inside Out) Endline Inspection (Straight)

Manual Manual

0.75 0.67

39 | P a g e

510 Front Rise Measure straight down from top of waistband to intersection of crotch seam. Measure flat without stretching seam. 511 Back Rise Measure straight down from top of waistband to intersection of crotch seam. Measure flat without stretching seam. 700 Inseam Lay the garment flat and fold the pant leg along the inseam. Measure from the crotch seam intersection down to the bottom of the garment, following the seam contour. 702 Outseam Measure from the top of waistband, or if pant has no waistband, measure from top of the garment to the bottom of the leg, following the contour of the side seam. 802 Knee Measure at the center point (half-way point) of the inseam. Measure straight across the leg from fold to fold or crease to crease. 900 g Opening Measure on the inside, straight across from side to side

6. Production planning Before production, proper planning is very necessary based on the quantity of the order. Here we have assumed the order quantity to be 10,000 garments. So we have planned based on this many order quantity.

6.1. Warehouse planning Per garment fabric consumption= 1.2+.05=1.25m Fabric width = 60 Fabric length required for 10000 garments= 10000 X 1.25= 12500m
40 | P a g e

Per roll fabric quantity average= 105 m No of rolls required= 12500/105 ~ 119 rolls If one rack can hold 10 rolls then no of racks required= 119/10~12 racks In one rack, there will be 3 levels, so total no of racks actually required= 12/3= 4

6.2. Spreading Total order quantity=10000 pcs = 10000 M: L:XL =1:2:1 Fabric consumption=1.25 mtr per garment Marker way= 4 way

Marker Length = 4 x 1.25 = 5 mt Lay length= 5 mt + 2 cm +2 cm= 5.04 mt 1 lay=4 garments Thus for 10000 pcs number of plies required = 10000/4 = 2500 No. of plies in a lay = 60 No. of lays = 10000/(4x60)~ 42 lays

Time of spreading for one ply= 1 min Total time for spreading one lay= 60 X 1= 60 min= 1 hr Total time required to spread all lays= 42 X 1 hr= 42 hrs

6.3. Cutting Total time taken to cut one lay= 30 min

41 | P a g e

So total time required to cut all 42 lays= 30 X 42 min= 1260 min= 21 hrs

6.4. Sewing Order quantity= 10000 SAM= 13 (from the operation bulletin- given in subsequent pages) Operators required= 38 (from the operation bulletin- given in subsequent pages) Efficiency= 70 % Per day available no of hours= 8 Let no of days required to finish the production be x. Then, Efficiency= (SAM X Total order quantity) / (Total working min available X Manpower) = (SAM X Total order quantity) / (x X Total working min per day X Manpower) So, x = (SAM X Order quantity)/ (Efficiency X Total working min per day X Manpower) = (13 X 10000) /(0.7 X 8 X 60 x 38) =10.2 days ~ 11 days

6.5. Finishing Time taken for thread trimming= 15 sec/ garment Time taken for measurement checking = 15 sec / garment Time taken in folding= 10 sec/ garment No of workers required= 1+1+1= 3 workers Total time taken in finishing= 40 sec / garment Time to pack all garments = 40 X 10000 / (60 x 60) hours

= 111.11 hours

As there are three workers for finishing, So actual no of hours required= 111.11/3 hours= 37.03 hours So no of days required= 4.62 ~ 5 days

42 | P a g e

6.6. Packaging Time taken to pack one garment=l5 sec Total time taken to pack all garments= (15 X 10000 )sec = 150000/(60 x 60) hours = 41.7 hrs No of days required= 41.7/8 = 5.2 days ~ 5days

Production Planning Here, we are assuming that for the order of 10,000 garments we are taking only 2 days of sewing, hence each day we will be producing only 5000 garments. However, due to low eciency each day we are able to produce only 4800 garment pieces. Assumptions Garment Annual Production Monthly Production Daily Production (26 days) Maximum achieved eciency = Maximum capacity eciency = Daily working hour SAM (sewing) = =

= = = =

mens formal trouser 15,60,000 gmts/year 1,30,000 gmts/month 5000 gmts/day 65 % 100 % 8 hrs. (480 minutes) 29.6 min

Calculations 1. No. of workstations and Lines Total SAM required/ day Minutes available at 100 % Minutes available at 65 % eciency = = = = = 5000 x 29.7(no. of pants x SAM) 118,500 min 118,500 min 118,500/0.65 min 182,308 min

Now considering the Operation bulletin (see Annexure) No. of machine/operator in 1 line is 62.
43 | P a g e

Actual minutes available in 1 line is 29,760 min(= 62 x 480) No. of line at 100% eciency = = 118,500/29,760 4 (approximation of 3.98)

No. of line at 65% eciency

182,308/29,760 7 (approximation of 6.12) Total no. of operators in 4 lines= 248 operators (62 x 4) Total no. of operators in 7 lines= 434 operators (62 x 7) Hence, total no. of machines/operators in each line is 62. For the ideal case we need 4 lines for producing 5000 garments, however in practical cases we need 7 lines as eciency is never 100 %. Calculation of extra time needed for producing 5000 garments, with 4 lines (62 machines/operators each line ) 65% achievable eciency SMV = 36.56 min. (at 100% eciency SAM= SMV, at lower eciency SMV=SAM/ eciency) Total SMV required/ day = = 5000 x 36.56(no. of pantss x SMV) 182,800 min

= =

Actual minutes available in 4 line is 119,040 min(= 62 x 4 x 480) (at 100% eciency) Minutes available at 65% = 119,040/0.65 eciency = 183,139 min Hence, extra minutes needed = = 183,139 - 182,800 min 339 min (5.65 hours)

Hence, extra minutes needed to complete the same order of 5000 garments at 65% eciency with resources of 100% eciency is 5.65 hours. Considering, Total no. of operator 1 helper/5 Total workforce =

248 operators 50 12 310 persons

44 | P a g e

2. Storage Fabric required in 1 garment Fabric length in 1 roll Fabric consumption in 1 day No. of rolls used in 1 day = = = = 1.7 meter 110 meter 9350 m (=1.7 x 5500) 85 rolls (=9350/110)

Now to maintain at least 3 days buer stock, we should have space for 250 rolls (=85 x 3). Width of roll = 60 inches Width of racks = 48 inches (consider 6 show-o in both sides) Diameter of 1 roll = 9 inches Maximum stack height of rolls = 4 rolls Space of movmt. in each rack = 12 inches Space between two racks = 48 inches (=9 x 4 + 12) Height of the rack stand = 12 feet (consisting of 3 racks) No. of rolls in one rack = 40 rolls (=10 stack x 4) No. of rolls in one rack stand = 120 rolls Total no. of rack stands = 2 (=250/120) One stacking rack stand for pre-inspection storage. 2 Operator will be using fork lift for roll transportation. Storage section will need 3 rack stands of (12 x 9 x 4), and 2 operators.

3. Cutting Floor Assumption Daily prodn. @ 10% buer

5500 gmts/day

Considering the cutting section to be automated, marker to be a 4 way marker & 1 lay consisting of 110 spreads of 7 metres each. Max. achievable eciency = 70% SAM (cutting/gmt) = 0.34 min 3 Operators are required for 1 cutting table/machine. Calculations Time taken in spreading and cutting is 2.5 hours (= 150 min) Hence, in 2.5 hours, 440 pantss cut pieces are obtained. Total minutes required/day at 100% eciency = 5500 x 0.34 (pantss x SAM)
= 1870 mins.
45 | P a g e

Total minutes required/day at 70% eciency

= =

1870/0.70 min 2672 min

Actual minutes available at spreading table is 480 min (= 8 x 60). No. of tables needed = = 2672/480 6

Here, we are not including a time analysis for the 70% eciency , i.e. how much time would we need to work at resources with capacity of 100% eciency; the eciency is low from ideal case because of the worker and not because of machine. As we are considering both spreading & cutting in one go, i.e., manual and automated operations in one step assumptions are made for simpli!cation. No. of operators(6 x 3) = 18 operators

of helpers(1h/3 Total workforce =

6 2 26 persons

4. Bundling & Ticketing 1 pants Total no. of pcs. 1 bundle Total no. of bundles 1 bundle, SAM Eciency Total minutes required at 100% eciency Total minutes required at 65% eciency = 12185 min = = = = = = = = = 24 pcs. 132,000 (5500 x 24 ) 25 pcs. 5280 (132,000/25) 1.5 min 65% 5280 x 1.5 7920 min 7920/0.65

46 | P a g e

1 worker Total no. of workers

= = = = = =

480 working minutes 12185/480 26 workers 26 workers 5 helpers 31 persons

No. of workers No. of helpers(1h/5w) Total workforce

Hence, in all cutting "oor requires 57 persons (=26+31).

5. Finishing Daily production Eciency SAM = = = = = = 4800 pantss 65% 1 min (ironing) 1.5 min (trimming & stain removing) 1 min (folding & packing) 3.5 min

Total SAM Ironing Total min. required for ironing = Minutes req. at 65% eciency = 1 operator No. of operators for ironing

= =

4800 x 1 min = 4800 min 4800/0.65 = 7385 min 480 min 7385/480 = 16 operators

Trimming & Stain removing Total min. required Minutes req. at 65% eciency = 1 operator No. of operators for T & SR

= =

4800 x 1.5 min = 7200 min 7200/0.65 min = 11077 min 480 min 11077/480 = 23 operators

Folding & Packing Total min. required Minutes req. at 65% eciency = 1 operator

4800 x 1 min = 4800 min 4800/0.65 = 7385 min 480 min

47 | P a g e

No. of operators for ironing

= =

7385/480 16 operators

No. of operators & helpers Ironing Trimming & Stain removing Folding & Packing Helpers (1h/9 op.) Total workforce

= = = = =

16 operators 23 operators 16 operators 6 helpers 61 persons

6. Warehousing Daily Production Dimension of 1 box Maximum stacking height Maximum stack height Capacity of 1 box of box required Hence, 200 boxes will take Space occupied by 200 boxes = SAM (Packing in Carton box) Total minutes required 1 operator No. of operator = = = = = = = = = = = 4800 gmts. 24 x 12 x 12 inches 7 7 feet (=1 x 7) 24 garments No. 200 (=4800/24) 29 stacks(=200/7) of 1 feet width and 2 feet depth 2 x 29 x 7 (L x B x H) 6 min 1200 min (=200 x 6) 480 min 3 operators (=1200/480)

Mini Marker Mini marker is the pattern traced in consideration with the minimum wastage of fabric in use. Here are some of the pictures which depict our fabric consumption. The marker used would be a 4-way marker in the following ratio M:X:XL=1:2:1

48 | P a g e

Conclusion
After studying this subject, we got a learning experience of many activities happening in the garment industry. Starting with the detailed product analysis, pattern making and testing till the production and packaging, we covered almost all the phenomena associated with an order.

This subject also gave us the knowledge about different parameters to be considered while garment and trims testing.

This subject helped us do the complete production planning of a product; from warehouse till finishing and packaging.

The experience learnt in the subject would help us in any product development in the apparel industry.

49 | P a g e