may 2012

A Society Where Everyone Lives Together

Korea Goes Multicultural

ceramics Festivals in Korea How to enjoy expo 2012 Yeosu Korea
Experience the Global Village in Yeosu

contents
may 2012 Vol.8 no.5

A Society Where Everyone Lives Together

Cover Story

02

Korea Goes Multicultural

Section 2 Living Together in Diversity

Section 1 Overcoming Differences Through Cultural Activities

12 Pen & brush home Within home Do ho Suh

16 People Classical pianist Daejin Kim

20 Great Korean the King Who Led the Renaissance of Joseon, King Jeongjo

22 Seoul a Spring Day in olympic park

26 festival Ceramics Festivals in Korea

28 Now in Korea easter in Korea with prayer, Charity, and easter eggs

30 Entertainment traditional Korean music marches Forward

32 Sports the Rising Star of Korean Gymnastics, Son Yeon-jae

34 Global Korea Korea Reaches out to afghanistan

36 Special Issue how to enjoy expo 2012 Yeosu Korea

42 Special Issue Rivers, the new national playgrounds

45 flavor Kkotgejjim Steamed blue Crab

46 My Korea Rock Climbing on Jeju

49 Learn Korean how much is this apple?

publisher Woo Jin-Yung, Korean Culture and Information Service editing the booK CompanY e-mail webmaster@korea.net printing Jeonkwang printing&Information all rights reserved. no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without permission from KOrea and the Korean Culture and Information Service. the articles published in KOrea do not necessarily represent the views of the publisher. the publisher is not liable for errors or omissions. If you want to receive a free copy of KOrea or wish to cancel a subscription, please e-mail us. A downloadable PDF file of KOrea and a map and glossary with common Korean words appearing in our text are available by clicking on the thumbnail of KOrea on the homepage of www.korea.net.

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Cover story

Korea Goes

A Society Where Everyone Lives Together

Multicultural

The change started long ago. The walls between races and cultures are crumbling, not only internationally but intranationally. South Korea is already a second homeland to numerous foreigners from many countries who are pursuing the Korean Dream. The government has been hammering out policies to help them settle, and immigrants are striving to realize their Korean Dream as proud members of society. This issue of KOREA examines various aspects of the Republic of Korea going multicultural.

Sejong Cultural Center organized the Sejong Youth Harmony Orchestra last year in order to provide music education to children from multicultural families. The 50 members of the orchestra, who recommended by 88 childrens centers across Seoul and passed auditions, are growing their dream of becoming musicians.

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Some 1.4 Million Foreigners Comingle with Native Koreans

together. The Rainbow Chorus of the Center for Multicultural Korea (CMCK) stands out among them. The Rainbow Chorus is the first-ever multicultural childrens chorus in South Korea and comprises children from families with ten different nationalities including Japanese, Filipino, Russian, Iraqi, and Thai. Professional musicians teach the chorus members free of charge, and they are invited to special events. They even sang before the top leaders gathered for the G-20 Seoul Summit, and serve as PR ambassadors for multiculturalism. The chorus is vitally important to its memberssuch innocent children who freely mix with one another regardless of nationality and physical featuresand provides valuable opportunities for its audiences to better understand what a multicultural society is like. These special activities and events help people understand the value of living together in diversity. The annual Global Village Festival, a program of the Hi Seoul Festival in downtown Seoul, brings together foreigners from across the globe now living in Seoul. The annual

Global Village Festival is the largest urban multicultural festival in South Korea and features performances by artists from foreign cities in sister relationships with Seoul. Foods, crafts, and costumes from around the world are all featured at this event. It is a joyful time for people with open hearts to have fun and experience different cultures. OppOrTuNiTiES TO MAKE DrEAMS COME TruE Foreigners living in Korea who hold degrees from prestigious universities or with exceptional talents often give up their careers as professionals: they are simply too busy earning a living. Financial security is essential for people to develop their talents and invest in their long-term careers. The intercultural, transnational chorus Montant is notable in this regard. Its full-time members are covered by the four major social insurances (employment insurance, industrial accident compensation insurance, national pension, and national health insurance) and come to work just like other salaried men and women in South Korea.

Korea Goes Multicultural

It i s n o l o ng e r u nc o m m o n t o s p o t foreigners in South Korea, whether in the city or the countryside. More and more foreigners come to South Korea to work or for marriage, and many of them form ethnic enclaves in many parts of the country. Here is a multicultural map of Korea. It is constantly being updated, but this is how it looks today.
by Lee Jeong-eun, Lee Seon-min, and Im Sang-beom

section 01

Overcoming Differences Through Cultural Activities

defectors to South Korea. As South Korea becomes racially and culturally more diverse, the national, local, and municipal governments have been devising new policies to embrace them as members of Korean society. CuLTurAL ACTiviTiES TO FOrM ShArED uNDErSTANDiNg The public and private sectors alike are keen to support activities and events that bridge cultural differences between Koreans and foreigners living in South Korea. Singing groups, festivals, and sporting events represent the most common means of bringing culturally distinct groups closer
In cooperation with the International Cooperation Division of Seoul Metropolitan Government, Center for Multicultural Korea, Seorae Global Village Center, YONHAP NEWS and NEWSBANK IMAGE

the number of foreigners staying in Korea topped 1.4 million. Yes, Korean society is rapidly going multicultural. Of these 1.4 million, 1.1 million are long-term immigrants, representing 2.2 percent of the Korean population. Nearly 49 percent of them are Korean Chinese who moved back to their ancestral fatherland, followed by Americans at 9.5 percent, Vietnamese at 8.3 percent, and Japanese at 4.2 percent. This surge in foreign settlers in Korea can be attributed to increases in the numbers of migrant workers, marriage immigrants, children born to multicultural families, Korean nationals returning from abroad, and North Korean

ore than 45 million people left and entered South Korea in 2011 alone, and

Multicultural family members mix bibimbap that represent the harmony of diverse cultures at the Bibimbap Festival

YONHAPNEWS

4 korea may 2012

they assist other foreign women who come to Korea to marry and their children. Rather than hiding in their homes as migrants, they go out and function as full members of their local communities, gradually bringing their Korean Dream to fruition. FOrWArD-LOOKiNg pOLiCy The increasing diversity of South Korean society was even evidenced in the recent general elections. Lee Jasmine, a naturalized Korean citizen, was elected to the National Assembly of the Republic of Korea by proportional representation, which indicates that South Korea is indeed embracing foreigners as members of society. As more and more foreigners firmly
Children from multicultural families are members of the Rainbow Choir at the Center for Multicultural Korea.

section 02

Multicultural Streets with respect for Differences

he South Korean governments policy on multicultural issues is basically designed

of Korea. In all four cardinal directions are multicultural towns. Among them, Itaewon in Yongsan district is now called the First Avenue of Multiculturalism. English-speaking people long occupied Itaewon and are being rapidly replaced by people from the Middle East and Africa, who have been forming Muslim Town and Africa Town. Roughly 500 Muslims live near Koreas largest mosque in Itaewon. I live in Seongnam, but come to Itaewon because the mosque is here, says Farhad Hussein from Pakistan. Many of my Muslim friends live in Itaewon, and I feel at home here because I can eat halal foods, which are prepared as required by the Koran. Most of the denizens of Africa Town are Nigerian. About a half of them are Muslim, and for this reason, Muslim Town and Africa Town

for homogenization of society, but it also respects the identities and diversity that foreign people bring when they become members of Korean society. They naturally form their ethnic enclaves where their unique cultures thrive. Among these are Yangkkochi Street (Street of Mutton Skewers) in Gwangjin District, Seoul; Damunhwa Street (Multicultural Street) in Ansan in the province of Gyeonggi; Muslim Town in Itaewon, Seoul; and Mongol Street in Gwanghui-dong in the Dongdaemun District, Seoul. These streets and towns are not only frequented by foreigners but also Koreans and serve as venues for multicultural experience and communication. Seoul is a microcosm of the global Republic

Singer Insooni grew up as a mixed race child in South Korea and is now an acclaimed R&B diva and Montants art director. Montants members are immigrants from nine countries including Monaco, Tibet, and Indonesia. The name, Montant, sounds similar to the Korean word monttang, which means all and every. The name signifies that the members can sing all songs in the world. The founders of the chorus hope that it will grow as a socially responsible business and are devoted to the cause of providing full-time jobs for its members. Few young people in South Korea choose to live in rural areas. This is especially true of young women. As a group, they are averse to living as farmers wives. As a result, the average age of the people living in the countryside has increased, but the trend is beginning to reverse thanks to an influx of foreign women to marring Korean men. Some of them become heads of womens societies in their local communities and even heads of the villages they live in. They acquire knowhow about living in South Korea and accumulate experience as foreign brides, mothers, daughters-in-law, and neighbors. At first, they start their new lives as recipients of assistance, but later they become donors and assistants. In particular,

settle down in Korea, the central and local governments formulate new policies to support their children. Children from multicultural families naturally tend to melt into Korean society in a seamless way. Their parents hope they will not lose their own national identities, and this concern is addressed in government policy. One example is the multicultural school run by the Seoul Metropolitan Government where bilingual education, education in special talents, and education for parents are provided. Children can learn their parents mother tongues including Chinese and Mongolian and receive lessons in arts and physical education. Parents can learn how to educate their children at home and how to raise their children bilingually. They can also learn Korean by singing and experiencing Korean culture. The South Korean government announced a 2012 action plan for policy to help foreigners on January 27 of this year. The plan shows that the government is keen on bringing in foreign workers to meet the needs of business, run multicultural classes to effectively help foreigners settle in Korea, and have more schools provide courses on multiculturalism.
In Itaewon, there are streets called Muslim Town and African Town.

YONHAPNEWS

6 korea may 2012

intermingle to a great degree. In Dongbuichon-dong, a neighborhood in Yongsan District, is a village called Little Tokyo. Plain and peaceful, the apartment forest is home to over 12,000 Japanese. They get together once a year when the Seoul Japan Club, an association of Japanese who live in Korea, holds a Christmas charity concert where Japanese choruses and students from Japanese schools in Korea sing songs. The concert also features dancers and other artists from Japan to give a glimpse into traditional Japanese culture. KOrEANS ArE pArT OF ThEM Seorae Maeul, a village in Banpo, Seoul, is called a small France in Korea. Some 70 percent of the residents are French. The Seorae Global Village Center in Seorae Maeul offers a unique cross-cultural experience in addition to lectures in Korean and French. Director MariePierre Allirol of the center says, During the French school semester, there are more French people, so we arrange more programs for that period. Koreans also participate in the
1Street performance held at the Seoul Friendship Fair 2012. 2 Multicultural families participate in a cooking event presenting their own national cuisines.

near the German school in Hannam-dong, a neighborhood in Yongsan District. A Central Asian community is in an area of downtown Seoul with alleys named Mongol Street, Uzbekistani Street, and Russian Street. In Garibong-dong in Guro District and Daerimdong in Yeongdeungpo District are Korean Chinese towns. About 470,000 Korean Chinese live in South Korea, and they account for almost one percent of the entire population of the country. In other words, one out of 100 people in South Korea is Korean Chinese. They used to live together in Yeongdeungpo and Guro, which are crowded with factories and plants, but as the number of Korean Chinese people has risen over the past few years, many have relocated to other parts of Seoul including Bongcheon-dong, Seongsu-dong, Sinseol-dong, and Jayang-dong. And Jayang-dong in Gwangjin District is especially notable because of the socalled Yangkkochi Street (Street of Mutton Skewers). A line of more than 100 restaurants serving Chinese mutton skewers, or Chinese shish kebab, stretches about one kilometer along the street originally called Dongil-ro Gil 18. Word-of-mouth about the unique mutton skewers has spread, and half of the customers are now Korean. The district of Gwangjin District is seeking a way to take advantage of the situation to boost the local economy. If you would like to experience Filipino culture, go to the Philippines town located in Hyehwa-dong. Every Sunday, there is a long Filipino market in front of the cathedral where a wide selection of Filipino foods and everyday goods are bought and sold. The weekly street market is especially popular among women who came to Korea for marriage. They not only buy things but share news from their hometowns and nostalgic stories of their own. MuLTiCuLTurALiSM LEADS TO NEW TOuriSM OFFEriNgS Multicultural towns are not unique to Seoul.
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phenomenon. Multiple foreign cultures comingle in Wongok-dong, Ansan City, Gyeonggi Province. There, you may feel as if you are walking down a street in Thailand, the Philippines, or China. It was designated as a multicultural special district in 2009 and has since become an important tourist attraction. The very moment you step into the Wongok neighborhood, your sense of smell is stimulated by exotic scents. Stores are full of tropical fruits such as mangosteen, durian, and pitaya; streets are lined with stalls that sell foreign street foods that compare to Koreas tteokbokki, gimbap, and sundae (not the ice cream dessert as many Westerners would think). Along the Wongok multicultural street are some 150 restaurants where foreigners cook and sell their traditional foods. Untamed to the Korean palate, the foods attract more attention from Koreans, especially those who have gone on extended backpacking trips to other Asian countries including India. Down south on the Korean Peninsula there is a village called the Itaewon of Gimhae, in Seosang-dong, Gimhae city, South Gyeongsangnam Province. The city designated Seosang-dong as a foreigners street to develop it as a tourist destination. Further southward is Koreas second biggest island, Geoje. The island is the center of South Koreas shipbuilding industry. It is home to Daewoo Shipbuilding & Marine Engineering (DSME) and Samsung Heavy Industries (SHI). These behemoths hire numerous foreigners, and foreign ship owners and ship class agencies dispatch many expats to this area. Many of them are from Norway, a global leader in shipbuilding, and the island now has a Northern European town. More and more local and municipal governments are exploring ways to tap foreigners towns to bolster their local economies. Their efforts generally involve holding multicultural festivals.
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YONHAPNEWS

activities of the center. In fact, more than 400 Koreans are registered with the center, nearly double the number of French. There is also a German community in Seoul that is located

Mr. Hwang froM vietnaM runs a restaurant in Downtown seoul

Hoang Thi nam, or Hwang Ti-nam as pronounced in Korean, came to South Korea on vacation in 2006 and tasted rice noodles at a Vietnamese restaurant. To his great surprise, the noodles tasted nothing like original Vietnamese rice noodles. At that time, he was just 21 years old and fresh out of college. He determined right then and there to bring the true taste of Vietnamese food to Korea. He sold all his belongings, borrowed money from friends, and then came back to Korea to open a restaurant. He named the restaurant Saigon. Hoang then hired a chef from Vietnam and brings all of the most important ingredients from his homeland in order to offer the original tastes of southern Vietnam. Word soon spread of his delectable fare that was like nothing else on offer in Korea, and five years later, Saigon is one of the most popular restaurants in the Jongno area of Seoul. Hoang could not speak Korean well at first and did not understand Korean law, but he was able to receive help from Koreans around him. This was surely one key ingredient to his recipe for success. Saigon has three franchise locations today, but Hoang is not yet satisfied. He wants to have 25 locations open by 2015. He says with a smile that it would also be good to marry a Korean, a smile that shows his confidence in the success of his new challenge.

They are increasingly becoming a nationwide

8 korea may 2012

hoping for a happy Multicultural Society

robert Holley

and speak different languages, he reflects. Likewise, foreign countries also had very faulty perceptions of Korea. They believed that Koreans were still wearing the gat (a Joseon Dynasty-style hat for men made of bamboo and horsehair) and the durumagi (a traditional Korean overcoat). In those days, there was no term like multicultural, and however open-minded he was, he also had to endure inner conflicts due to cultural differences he experienced every single day. Although many questions filled his mind, he decided to discard his fixed ideas on almost everything in order to mix with the Koreans. He kept his mind open and accepted the new culture and ventured to do new things. These efforts changed even his palate, and he was at last able to enjoy altang (fish egg stew) and hongeo hoe (raw skate). For the past few years, there has been a surge in the numbers of multicultural families, foreign students, and migrant workers. This has led to a change in the Korean mindset towards foreigners and national policy in many respects. Holley believes that this change will lead Korean society into becoming a mature multicultural society. He only hopes for the public to remember that everyone is special. is an important solution to resolve this issue. While foreigners in Korea learn about Korea, Koreans also need to learn about people from other countries. He says there is a greater need for education on the cultures of Southeast Asia than those of the West since the Koreans already know much about the latter. Holley emphasizes that once people understand cultural differences and their implications, they will more readily accept each other. At the very least, Koreans will understand why some foreigners have difficulty partaking of kimchi. Holley is busy nowadays. Local and municipal governments and schools invite him for lectures about multicultural society. He has more opportunities than before to talk with brides from foreign countries who come to his lectures, or play with children from multicultural families. He now believes that he can even read their minds. From seeing those who are trying to start a new life and find happiness in a new country, Holley has only one concern. These foreigners wish that they had a Korean friend. Having rECOgNizE DiFFErENCES AND LEArN FrOM ONE ANOThEr The Koreans are generally proud of being racially homogeneous, and the nation does not seem ready to fully embrace multiculturalism. Foreigners feel that they are forced to become like Koreans regardless of their original cultures or ways of thinking. Holley believes that education to advance mutual understanding a Korean friend would be a great support for these people who are starting a new life in a strange place. They would feel less like an outsider. Perhaps they will even have the energy to live for their dreams in Korea society. In conclusion, he gives a simple solution to Korean society, which is struggling to go multicultural, a simple answer for happiness for all based on his experience: Lets have foreign friends!
Robert Holley emphasizes the need for understanding each other in a multicultural society.

Robert Holley, an international lawyer and television celebrity, is a naturalized Korean citizen. Your reporter for KOREA meets Holley, who even founded a school for foreign children, to hear his storieshow he adapted to Korean culture and what he thinks South Korea should do on its way toward becoming a multicultural society.
by Im Sang-beom / photographs by Lee Min-hee

obert Holley rose to television stardom in South Korea in the first decade of the 21st

alien from another planet. Later, when he had children, he also witnessed cultural differences. Many Koreans would touch his children without seeking permission, saying they were pretty. His children were sometimes ridiculed at school because of their peculiar names. However, Holley didnt react like his foreigner friends, who simply avoided such situations. He embraced such differences with an open heart. Such episodes were not uncommon because Koreans did not have many opportunities to encounter foreigners, who look different

They should be met without prejudice from skin color or nationality.

century. When an international lawyer from the United States spoke Korean in a thick Busan dialect, all Koreans opened their hearts to him. He was in all sorts of programs and featured in TV commercials. Hes got a Korean name, Ha-il, which he acquired when he became Korean in 1997. It was over 30 years ago when he first came to Korea as a missionary. Back then, people looked at him with such curiosity as if he were an

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PEN & BRUSH

Home Within Home

Do Ho SuH

Do Ho Suh is an artist who seeks the me in home and a nomad who wanders throughout the world nearly all year round. The concept or the entity of home comes across as being especially meaningful to this Korean contemporary artist. Lets step into his own home to learn about the artist. by Im Sang-beom

In cooperation with Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art

Suhs 2009 artpiece, Home within Home 1/11, expresses Hanok in an apartment.

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clothe it with tailored garments. And a home is not only an architectural structure, but harbors immaterial memories. Thats why I chose thin, translucent fabrics. Thats also why I chose the word home over the word house for the title of my exhibition. The work Fallen Star-1/5 in the same space called the Black Box together with Home Within Home-1/11 expresses what he felt as a foreign student living in the US and shows a Hanok falling and crashing into an American townhouse on a one-fifth scale. The Hanok is a representation of his childhood home. Through this work, he does not simply talk about a cultural clash, but plants an expectation in the
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mind of his audience for the stories that will follow. Home Within Home-1/11, which shows the Hanok nestled inside the American house, is open to different possibilities. The artist himself will wait to see whether the Hanok will grow in there or be absorbed into the American house. OTHER STORIES His concept of the kind of a home within a home is roughly the same as the Buddhist idea of samsara. This work made of thin fabric, from outside of which you can see the inside and vice versa, represents encounters between individuals and culture, between individuals and the cosmos, between me and others, and between this world and the afterlife. He delves into the boundaries with questions, which in turn are embodied in three dimensions. The members of his audience now see his private home in the museum and accept the space in their own way. He has much to do, and this year finds him busier than ever. He is going to have a solo exhibition at the Hiroshima Museum of Art in Japan in August and another one at the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa in Japan in November. He will participate in the Gwangju Biennale 2012 and work on the Hamnyeongjeon project with the National Museum of Contemporary Art, Deoksugung, both in September. Deoksugung is one of the palaces of the Joseon Dynasty

1 Suhs houses installed in the Ground Gallery. The artwork hanging from the ceiling is Seoul House. 2 Stairs, bathroom, etc are delicately embodied in New York Apartment. 3 Reflection, which visualizes soseul daemun (lofty main gate) of Hanok displayed at the entrance of the gallery, represents the entrance of space.

after Nam June Paik (1932-2006) and U-Fan Lee (1936-present). He leads a nomadic existence, living in different parts of the world including Seoul, New York, Paris, and London. Over a decade ago, he started working on the theme of home and is dubbed an artist who carries his home. As a kid, he lived in a traditional Korean house called Hanok in the northern Seoul neighborhood of Seongbuk and this memory translated into a work that grabbed international attention. Through deft needlework with delicate jade-toned Chinese silk thread and soft sheer fabric, he recreated the Hanok in Seongbuk-dong where he spent his childhood and adolescence. Do Ho Suh is back in Seoul this spring to hold his first solo exhibition in Korea in almost a decade. Entitled Home within Home, this exhibition at Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art from March 22 to June 3 showcases his interpretations of homes and spaces through over 40 works including sculptures, installations, video clips, and drawings. The artist says that he does not communicate a grand message, but that his works are results of his reflection on his life. He considers an art

o Ho Suh is widely considered Koreas most representative contemporary artist

museum to be a big home. For this exhibition, he placed his created home in this big home, and hence the name of the exhibition, Home within Home. He expects his audience will also read living relationships being formed between his works of art and the museum. WHY HOMES? Do Ho Suh crossed the Pacific over 20 years ago to study in the US, where he felt himself a stranger in a foreign culture, spaces, language, and people. He started looking around and measuring the spaces around him using a ruler. To better adapt to the new environment, he trained himself in measuring and fathoming things not by the centimeter, which is used in Korea, but by the inch. Amid the challenge, he gradually managed to settle in the unfamiliarity. Later, he began to live in different parts of the world and experienced different homes. He expresses the Hanok in Seoul, the apartment in New York, and the house in Berlin that he has lived in with feather-light, soft, translucent fabric. The translucent, foldable material he chooses to use signifies the flexibility and mode of communication of the space called home. I needed portable materials. says the artist. I dont think my hands create a space, but

in downtown Seoul, and Hamnyeongjeon is a building where Emperor Gojong lived for a period of time. He has almost completed construction of a wooden house and garden on the rooftop of a seven-story building on the campus of San Diego State University (SDSU). Do Ho Suh will live and work in many parts of the world and needle up more homes to show us.
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PEOPLE

PianiSt Daejin Kim

Bringing Classical Music Closer to the Public

Pianist Daejin Kim is one of the most influential musicians in the Republic of Korea. He is both a renowned musician and exceptional teacher who has produced many students who have won prizes in major international competitions. He says he became a musician by living immersed in music.
by Lee Seon-min / photographs by Lee Min-hee

orchestra, conductor, concert commentator, jury member for an international piano competition, and a businessman who runs a one-man record label. He has a presence in nearly every aspect of music, and he has his own excuse for these many titles: There are things I have initiated, but many of these titles are merely by-products of my effort to make myself available for any call for change in the world of classical music. I dont care very much about the form; all I care about is making classical music more accessible to the public. His adventures include concerts with commentaries for the audiences and becoming the music director of both the Suwon Philharmonic Orchestra and the Kumho Chamber Music Society. He is also an exceptional music teacher, which he regards as his primary calling. Many of his students have made brilliant appearances in major international competitions including Yeoleum Son and Seongjin Cho, who won the silver prize and bronze medal at the Tchaikovsky Competition last June, respectively, and Sunwook Kim, who has won many major international competitions. Classical Western music came to Korea just
NEwSBANK IMAGE

aejin Kim is many thingsa pianist, professor, music director of a chamber

over a century ago, and the world is taking

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increasing interest in the outstanding South Korean musicians who lately have emerged. If South Korea continues on its present trajectory, it will eventually become one of the most prestigious countries in the world of classical music. Kim says that more people have become enthusiasts of classical music in South Korea and Japan than in Europe, where the music has its origins, and guardedly predicts that Asia will soon become the center of classical music. TEACHING IS MY CALLING What made him become a pianist? He wishes he could say, I was so fascinated by a maestros performance as to dream of becoming a pianist, but he smiles and concedes that was not the case. My father wanted to study the violin in college, but circumstances did not allow it. Instead, he listened to music a lot. There were so many LP records albums in our home that even broadcasting companies would occasionally ask to borrow some of them. Listening to music was like breathing air. Thanks to my devout Christian grandmother, as a kid I learned how to play hymns on the piano. After years of living like this, I one day found myself called a pianist. He earned his bachelors, masters, and doctors degrees all from Julliard. He could have lived as a musician in the United States, but instead came back to South Korea. It is natural for an artist to desire to live abroad for his or her artistic endeavors, but when I considered my raison dtre as a
1

decide what to do, recalls the pianist. I dont think being an artist and being a teacher are necessarily mutually exclusive. Itzhak Perlman and Kyung Hwa Chung are all outstanding violinists and professors. I became a professor at the Korea National University of Arts because I believed teaching students is a basic obligation of a musician. Kim always endeavors to improve both his playing and teaching. A measure of well-played music is more moving than a phrase of wellsaid words. For this reason, he tries to nurture his students better by playing in more concerts.

It is natural for an artist to desire to live abroad for his or her artistic endeavors, but when I considered my raison dtre as a musician, it wasnt very difficult for me to decide what to do.

community involvement, he became the music PIONEER BRINGING CLASSICAL MUSIC TO THE PUBLIC Kim performs in 60 to 70 concerts every year. He laments that there are not enough professional performers in South Korea and strongly encourages the public to go to more concerts. It is all very well and good for artists to make their names known through competitions, but there must also be stages on which they can play for the public. In South Korea, few musicians can make a living only by performing. I see many artists in their 40s who have great potential as professional performers, but the circumstances are not yet favorable for them, Kim ruefully states. When there are more concerts, there will be more interest, and as a result, naturally more professional performers will grow. We are in a transitional period, and that is one of the reasons I focus on teaching. His efforts have brought many changes to the world of classical music in South Korea. When it became clear that there must be more active director of the Suwon Philharmonic Orchestra; in response to demand for more chamber concerts, he held concerts with the Kumho Chamber Music Society; and when there was a need for in-depth commentary on symphonies and sonatas for the general public, he became a facilitator of concerts staged along with commentaries. I will always answer the call to promote classical music in any way I can. Today, musicians grow together with their audiences, and this requires change, emphasizes the maestro pianist. A piece of music that comes deep into your mind never leaves you. I am the deliverer of such music, so Im very honored to have this vocation. Classical Western music is globally on the wane, but he sees South Korea faring relatively well in this realm of art. He is confident that foreign students will soon begin to come to South Korea to study classical music. In great anticipation of that day, he performs and teaches with his whole heart today.
1 As an artist and teacher, pianist Daejin Kim tries to nurture his students better by playing in many concerts. 2, 3 Daejin Kims Albums. Beethoven Symphonies No. 1 and No. 5 and Schuberts piano sonatas.

musician, it wasnt very difficult for me to

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GREAT KOREAN

The King Who Led the Renaissance of Joseon

King Jeongjos adamant advocacy of Tangpyeongchaek is especially meaningful in light of the facts surrounding his fathers death. King Yeongjos order of his sons tragic death in a rice chest caused a schism in Noron. Those members of Noron who accepted it became known as Byeokpa and those who opposed as Sipa. Byeokpa dominated the government when King Jeongjo acceded to the throne, but King Jeongjo exercised great forbearance and took no retribution against them. As a prolific writer and avid student, King Jeongjo determined that an academic approach
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King jeongjo

For 518 years, 27 kings ruled over the Joseon Dynasty. King Jeongjo is considered the second greatest of them all, after Sejong the Great. In the realm of politics and state affairs, King Jeongjo reached across the aisle to different political factions and social classes when appointing officials, and bolstered the authority of the throne. by Lee Sun-min

was necessary to address political, economic, ing Jeongjo (r. 1776-1800), the 22
nd

social, and other practical issues and that the despotism of the kings maternal relatives and eunuchs should be suppressed. For these reasons, he founded Gyujanggak, a royal library, and pursued academic politics, which emphasized ones capabilities rather than background. Gyujanggak was not simply an archive of the kings writings and calligraphic works; it was a national agency that assisted in the execution of state affairs by collecting books from across the country, publishing new books, and preserving them. He also emphasized the importance of learning Chinese and other foreign languages to his subjects so that they could develop and maintain international perspectives. He even established a foreign language education and testing system. ENVISIONING A LIVABLE WORLD FOR
Photographs provided by Lee Gil-beom, SUWON HWASEONG MUSEUM and korea tourism organizaiton

self-sufficient. He built a state-owned plantation, excavated a reservoir for irrigation, and tested new and advanced farming techniques and farm management methods. The enactment in 1791 of the Tonggong policy, which allowed free commerce in common goods, served to attract merchants to the new city of Suwon. His dream of building a reformist city seemed likely to come to fruition. Alas, the plan was never completed as a result of his sudden and suspicious death at the relatively young age of 48. All the talented people whom King Jeongjo had discovered and supported including Jeong Yak-yong, the architect of the innovative Hwaseong Fortress, were ousted, and his dream of reform came completely to naught. Today, the Rural Development Administration is headquartered in Suwon, where King Jeongjo attempted to reform the Joseon Dynasty and experimented with new farming techniques. The presence of the administration has made the city a national center of R&D in farming technology, and Suwon is widely called a city of filial piety in commemoration of King Jeongjos love for his parents. Despite the challenges in his life, the king was determined to reform society. His heart was full of love for all his people: he longed to create a livable world for each and every one of them. Although King Jeongjo has passed away, his legacy still resonates in the hearts of Koreans.

monarch of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-

1910), is renowned as a sage king who led the renaissance of the dynasty through innovation and politics of engagement. He was the grandson of King Yeongjo (r. 1724-1776) and the son of Crown Prince Jangheon (a.k.a. Crown Prince Sado) and Lady Hyegyeong (Queen Heongyeong, posthumously). Jeongjos early life was not necessarily happy because his father was put to death by his own grandfather, King Yeongjo. He has many brilliant feats to his credit in the political, economic, social, and other areas. Especially notable is his firm pursuit of Tangpyeongchaek, which was his policy of impartiality in appointing government officials. This policy was not his invention, but the brainchild of his grandfather. There were two major political factions: Noron (Old Doctrine) and Soron (Young Doctrine). Noron dominated, but was split between two distinct groups called Sipa and Byeokpa. Before Jeongjos reign, it had been the privilege of the men of the nobility, called yangban, to become government officials, and the sons of yangban whose mothers were concubines were forbidden from becoming government officials. However, when the policy of Tangpyeongchaek became firmly entrenched, King Jeongjo appointed as officials people from all political factions and social classes. His only

1 Portrait of King Jeongjo. 2 Hwaseong fortress is a historic site of King Jeongjos period where reform was based on Confucianism.

EVERYONE The kings reformist inclinations culminated in the construction of the impressive Hwaseong Fortress (1794-1796; a UNESCO World Heritage site). The fortress, a wall surrounding the city of Suwon near Seoul, was built to honor Crown Prince Jangheon (a.k.a. Crown Prince Sado) on the occasion of the relocation of his grave. King Jeongjo also intended to build a new city where he would unfold his reformist dreams. He introduced the most advanced construction technologies available to build the wall, and he planned to make the city of Suwon

concern was whether they were capable.

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seoul

A Spring Day in

OLYMPIC PARK
Olympic Park in eastern Seoul is a relaxing getaway from the busy streets of the city. An art museum, a barley field, and 1,000-year-old wooden fences from the Baekje Kingdom make the walk a little more special. by Chung Da-young / photographs by Lee Min-hee

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years, three gymnasiums, an indoor swimming pool, a tennis court, and Olympic Hall were built in the eastern section of the park to hold various events. These are now popular venues for sporting events and concerts throughout the year. Physical fitness equipment is available throughout the park for anyone to use while strolling or jogging. The park has five walkways and jogging paths that cut through the shrubbery, making a walk in the park more enjoyable. Lakeside Lane, Fortress Lane, Memory Lane, Lovers Lane, and Youth Lane all circle the parks scenic attractions, and each has its own unique charms. On a sunny day, one can easily see the elderly or mothers with strollers walking or exercising on the paths. Lovers Lane, which winds along Seongnae Stream and passes through a pine grove, is perfect for couples who want to enjoy a leisurely stroll. Youth Lane is recommended for avid joggers. The path has an unobstructed
1 2 3

sculptures on the lawn next to the main entrance. This area is the Seoul Olympic Sculpture Park. Most of the sculptures are works by prominent Korean and foreign artists to commemorate the Seoul Olympics. The SOMA Museum of Art was opened to make the park a venue of education. The museum hosts many exhibitions for young students along with educational programs such as art classes and sketch tours inside the park. Olympic Park is ready to welcome visitors with a long list of spring performances and newly planted wild flowers. A weekend spent in Olympic Park is sure to bring more than just a ray of sunshine.
Park Information
Park Hours 5:00 a.m.10:00 p.m. Admission fee Free How to get there Subway: Mongchontoseong Station (line 8) exit 1 or Olympic Park Station (line 5) exit 3 Car: Parking is available at the park entrance near Mongchontoseong and Olympic Park Station for a fee of KRW 1,000 (approx. USD 1) for the first hour and KRW 500 for every additional 20 minutes.

view of the outer ring of Olympic Park and is actually used as part of the routes of marathons and other running events. The endless stretch of green grass and the grove make ones visit even

1 The Seoul Olympic Sculptures Park features sculptures by worldrenowned artists including The Thumb, a bronze sculpture by French sculptor Csar Baldiccini. 2 Dialogue is a granite sculpture by Algerian sculptor Mohand Amara. 3 A variety of performances are presented on the outdoor stage in Olympic Park.

event, the city constructed numerous facilities and monuments throughout the city and its vicinity. Even long after the games, the 88 Olympic Expressway, Olympic Bridge, Olympic Stadium, and other such structures remain major landmarks of Seoul and happy reminders of that glorious time. Olympic Park is also one of those landmarks. The park is filled with historical, artistic, and natural attractions that make it a veritable cultural destination for Seoulites and others. HISTORIC PARK Located south of the Hangang (the river that flows through the capital city) in eastern Seoul, the park stretches over a vast area of 150,000 m (approx. 1.6 million ft2). Construction for the park began in 1984 to commemorate the 1988 Summer Olympics and was completed in 1986. The area was originally a historic site of an

eoul hosted the 24 Summer Olympic Games

th

earthen fortress called Mongchon Toseong, or Mongchon Earthen Fortress, of the Hanseong Baekje Kingdom (18 BCAD 475). Archeological excavation was conducted at Mongchon Toseong before construction of the park began to piece together its history. It was an important site to learn about the first capital of the Hanseong Baekje Kingdom, and a section of the wooden fences that had lined the earthen walls were restored. Visitors to the park can see these wooden fences along the walking paths and learn about the history of the Hanseong Baekje Kingdom. The Hanseong Baekje Museum is also in Olympic Park. GREEN PARK Olympic Park attracts many locals for its sports facilities and cultural attractions, as well as its unique historical background. In 1984, the park was designed as a venue for civic sports, cultural activities, and leisure to honor the spirit of the 1988 Seoul Olympics. Over the

more enjoyable. Ever since the park was built, the dense greenery of Olympic Park has developed over the last 30 years and as a result has become a veritable ecological park of Seoul. Barley is cultivated on the flat green land in the western section of the park. The groundskeepers grow barley and other grains all year round, and visitors can take part in the harvesting in autumn. The special picnic area is open to everyone for recreation and picnicking, and on weekends it is frequented mainly by families. CULTURAL PARK Olympic Park is also frequently visited by Seoulites for its many cultural performances and artistic attractions. When the weather is warm, Seouls citizens and amateur musicians perform in the amphitheater of the 88 Lake Water Stage. The lake view behind the stage is the perfect backdrop for musical performances on a summer night. Visitors will notice large

in 1988. To accommodate this momentous

SeOuL JAzz FeStIvAL 2012

Groove to jazz tunes at the sixth Seoul Jazz Festival running from May 19 to 20 at Olympic Park. The festival is in its sixth year, and continues to offer Seoulites sophisticated melodies by top artists from both here and abroad. The event will be held at the 88Grass lawn and the lake Water Stage in Olympic Park from May 19 to 20. This year the world famous super band Earth, Wind & Fire, guitar legend George Benson, Al Di Meola, the king of R&B soul Eric Benet, jazz band Brian Blade and the Fellowship Band, the Grammy Best New Artist nominee ledisi, and the popular Japanese band Sonoda Band will perform throughout the two-day festival. Ticket Information Price: 99,000 won (one day pass) / 178,000 won (two day pass) Online purchase: ticket.yes24.com (02-1544-6399) / ticket.interpark.com (02-1544-1555) For more information, visit www.privatecurve.com or call (02) 563-0595

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festival

CeRAMICS FeStIvALS In KOReA

The Icheon Ceramics Festival and the Yeoju Ceramics Festival are held around the same time in spring, but their programs and themes are not quite the same. by Lee Jeong-eun

Tradition, Today, and Tomorrow Shake Hands in Clay

THE ICHEON CERAmICS FESTIvAL This spring marks the 27 Icheon Ceramics Festival, which takes place in and around Seolbong Park in Icheon from April 28 to May 20. This 23-day festival, with the theme Ceramics, Sharing, and Relaxation, features hands-on activities for inner healing and relaxation and is joined by more than 150 pottery studios. You can spend a full day as a potter, create your own artwork, and even stage a performance using your imagination in which you express with gestures the struggle of perseverance that firewood and ceramics go through in a kiln. In addition to these activities are special exhibitions such as an exhibition about tea and ceramics, exhibitions by koreas master potters, an exhibition of more than 5,000 makgeolli cups, an exhibition of popular pieces that are recommended by designers, and an exhibition of pieces that have been popular among collectors over the past year. As Icheon is a town of artistic ceramics, simply browsing these exhibits is an uncommon joy and an opportunity to discover how beautiful Korean ceramics truly are. If you want to relish the beautiful scenery of the city as well as its culture, dont miss the
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THE YEOjU CERAmICS FESTIvAL The 24th Yeoju Ceramics Festival takes place around Silleuksa, a temple with a history of over 1,000 years in Yeoju. The festival runs for 23 days, from April 21 to May 13. Here, tradition meets modernity with displays of new products that bring beauty into our lives, and number of hands-on activities. Exhibitions are another major draw, including the Yeoju Namhangang Ceramics Exhibition led by young potters in Yeoju, the Judo (Drinking Etiquette) Exhibition where drinking vessels and other liquor vessels are displayed and sold, and a relay of special exhibitions that feature the works of 100 potters from across the country who produce pottery for everyday purposes. These exhibitions are especially good opportunities for visitors to relish the artwork of Onggijang (a master potter of onggi, a type of traditional Korean earthenware pottery.), Sagijang (a master potter of sagi, a type of traditional Korean porcelain.), and master potters from Yeoju. There are even shopping malls where artistic and practical ceramics produced in Yeoju are sold at deep discounts. Visitors can also carve out unforgettable memories through fun activities such as throwing baseballs or bowling balls at ceramic targets, making
1 Makgeolli cups finished with artistic touches 2, 3 A ceramics festival, a particular favorite of foreigners, takes place in Yeoju and Icheon respectively every year. 4 Making their own potteries, children shape exciting childhood memories. 5 Works of young potters can be seen at the Yeoju Ceramics Festival. 5 4

Dolle Dolle Ceramic Trip, a tour that connects the site of the festival with the other attractions of Icheon. In Potters Teaching Me, you will learn

he two cities of Icheon and Yeoju in the province of Gyeonggi-do are famous for

techniques of experts the pottery. The festival charges KRW 5,000 (approx. USD 5) per person, part of which is reimbursed in the form of gift certificates that you can use during the festival.

pottery. Both are excellent locations for the production of ceramics as they abound in kaolin (a.k.a. porcelain clay), clean water, and pine wood, suitable for firing kilns. However, this doesnt mean that these two cities produce the same types of ceramics. Icheon is considered the modern mecca of Korean pottery. It has long
In cooperation with Icheon City and Yeoju City

been a home to masters who add artistry to their creations. Yeoju is the center of functional ceramic products used in our daily lives. It produces over 40 percent of the ceramic products for everyday purposes in South Korea. These two cities lure throngs of tourists who are eager to get their hands dirty with clay during the popular ceramics festivals every spring.
26 korea may 2012

shapes of fish and other animals with clay, and painting gypsum models of popular cartoon characters like Pororo.

27

NoW iN KoRea

eASteR In KOReA

with Prayer, Charity, and Easter Eggs

Easter Sunday in South Korea may be celebrated only by Christians to glorify the resurrection of Jesus Christ, but the message is shared with the community through charity and Easter eggs. by Chung Da-young / photographs by Kang Min-gu

good, and the warm spring breeze of April was especially welcome. Couples and families enjoyed the cherry blossoms that covered the hills and lined the rivers, and the farmers got busy sowing the fields. Politicians geared up for the 19th general elections that were held on April 11, but for the nations Christians and Catholics, April was meaningful as Easter Sunday fell on the second Sunday of the month. On April 8, the churches of South Korea celebrated Easter along with the worlds Christian community to glorify the resurrection of Jesus Christ on the third day after his crucifixion. Easter is a national holiday in many Western countries that have large Christian populations, and the day is celebrated together with non-Christians. In the United States, New York City holds an annual Easter parade on Easter Sunday, and the annual Easter Egg Roll is held for young children on the White House lawn. In Denmark, Finland, Norway, and Sweden, both Easter Sunday and Easter Monday are public holidays. South Korea does not have a state religion, and every citizen has the freedom of religion. Some 53 percent of the Korean population is religious. Of that 53 percent, slightly more than half believes in Christianity, be that Protestantism or Catholicism. The second largest religion is Buddhism, which claims 43 percent of the religious adherents. Unlike Western countries where Easter
1

y the end of March, winters icy grip over the country was finally broken for

and other public places, Easter in South Korea is mostly celebrated by Christians through prayer and religious festivities organized by the Protestant and Catholic churches. Easter is the second biggest Christian holiday after Christmas. It is historically the springtime celebration of the resurrection of Jesus Christ, a holiday marking the renewal of the Christian faith. The Archbishop of Seoul, Cardinal Nicholas Cheong Jin-suk, spoke of the importance of love and gratitude through a special Easter announcement. The task for our society today is coexistence and communication among life. We must love those in our society who have different beliefs and customs. If we try to understand others with compassion and kindness, then communication will not be very difficult. The Protestant Church shared the hope and message of Christ with the community through various charity events. Sarang Church in the Gangnam area of Seoul sent part of the offerings from the Easter Sunday service to North Korea to benefit orphans. The church also held concerts and sold Easter egg baskets in the church courtyard. Sunsa Church in the province of Gyeonggi-do organized a wedding ceremony for seven couples who couldnt afford one. The couples, who included foreign workers and immigrants, were given a wedding ceremony with the help of the congregation. Major department and candy stores attracted customers with special Easter egg decorations and chocolates. Chateau Chocolat, a chocolate chain that specializes in handmade chocolates,

made chocolates in the shapes of Easter eggs and bunnies for the occasion. Each year, we make Easter egg chocolates with different decorations, says Kim In-kyu, the manager of the store in Insadong. The egg-shaped chocolates are popular among customers because we offer them only at this time of year. South Korea may have little of the Easter festivity of the kind seen in Western countries, but the message of the religious celebration is true to heart.

1 Colorful Easter eggs are part of the festive celebration. 2 A mother and her son are write an Easter egg prayer after the church service. 3 The Easter sermon at Sarang Church 4 A child enjoying the gift of a basketful of Easter eggs

festivites are readily apparent in shops, schools,

28 korea may 2012

29

eNteRtaiNMeNt

traditional drum called the buk, the geomungo (a zither with six silk strings), and the taepyeongso (a woodwind). Among the many crossover performances, percussion ones are the most popular. Percussion instruments make your heart beat; a club DJ adds to the excitement; and teen pop dancers come on the stage. Young audiences become thoroughly enraptured. The formats of western orchestra music and musicals draw the gugak closer to audiences that are now more familiar with western culture. A case in point is the performance Ta, get, staged at the National Theater of Korea in October 2011. (The title Ta, get is not a typo of the English word target as one may suppose; ta means beat in Korean.) It was an omnibus of fusion percussion performances by musicians of the National Orchestra of Korea and featured the dancing of Poppin Hyun Joon and his crew,
1

allow for a wider range of expression. The piri (a type of pipe) is coming out in different lengths and diameters, and the haegeum with different registers. The gayageum (a type of zither originally with 12 strings) is now becoming available with up to 25 strings. These redesigned instruments may not have the deep resonance of the originals, but they too produce the unique and alluring pulling, pushing, pressing, and dropping sounds. gugak is no longer difficult or boring music. It is building on tradition in original and dynamic ways and is drawing more people to gugak concerts and performances with lighter steps and greater expectations of fun and excitement. What else can gugak do to meet their expectations?

one of Koreas hottest dancers, as well as the DJing of DJ Needle, one of the best hip-hop DJs in Korea. To merely say that the performance was dynamic, thrilling, rhythmical, and charismatic may be an understatement. It threw the mostly young audience into raucous excitement that could easily compare with that of a club party. Another example is the light gugak musical Fanta-Stick, for which the wildly popular Korean actor Song Seung-heon serves as honorary ambassador. Fanta-Stick started last month and has garnered rave reviews. The rhythm is taken from gugak, and many different gugak
2
In cooperation with Haera Inc, Fanta-Stick, The national Theater of korea

Traditional Korean music marches Forward

Traditional Korean music(Gugak in Korean) is adapting to the sensibilities of people today, shattering its image of excessive complexity and even monotony. Lets look into the world of gugak today as it undergoes a major reinvention. Gugak musicians are actively embracing other genres of art, staging more original performances, and redesigning and inventing instruments.
by Im Sang-beom

1, 2, Picture provided by Haera Inc. Fanta-stick 3 The National Theater of Korea, Season Performance Ta, Get

managed to survive over the past century or so as a result of changing tastes of the public and other such developments over time. It has been kept alive by people from all walks of life, and is presently undergoing a significant transformation. One of the most notable recent developments has been fusion or crossover with other genres of arts. gugak musicians are discovering new ways of communicating with their audiences.
30 korea may 2012

instruments including the buk , the janggu (an hourglass-shaped double-headed drum), and the haegeum (a string instrument) are featured. Traditional Korean dancers wear a sangmo hat with a long ribbon and dance and twirl the ribbons. Their performance is very acrobatic: it requires all of their sharply honed sangmo dolligi and nearly cart-wheeling jaban dwijipgi skills. More and more variations on traditional Korean dance and music are being staged, prompting the composition of numerous gugak pieces. This, in turn, is raising demand for new and redesigned instruments that
3

raditional Korean music developed over a period of 2000 years, but it has barely

For example, a western orchestra plays a pop song with a gugak instrument. Last month, an interesting criminal comedy was staged with the narrative structure of pansori, a genre of traditional Korean music where a vocalist accompanied by a percussionist sings and chants a story. Traditionally, one vocalist stands and sings alone for hours, but in this fusion musical, two vocalists were featured. The music was faster and more sprightly, and western instruments such as the saxophone were used along with traditional instruments including a

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sPoRts

any Koreans consider her a fairy of rhythmic gymnastics. Her stellar rise

HEART IN LONDON The difference between winning and losing in rhythmic gymnastics will be measured in the smallest differences in scores. Your reporter asks Son who her role model is in this fiercely competitive landscape. She cites Yevgeniya Kanayeva of Russia, the current number one in the world, and Anna Bessonova of Ukraine, a retired star dubbed the Queen of the Elegance. As a child, she dreamed of performing on the Olympic stage, and her dream will come true this summer in London. Her next dream is to do her utmost and record the highest possible point total she can in London. To make this second dream a reality, she is now constantly checking herself. She has a tight schedule until thenWorld Cup events in Sofia (Bulgaria), Corbeil-Essonnes (France), and Tashkent (Uzbekistan) in May, and another World Cup event in Minsk (Belarus) in June. These will help her step up her game and check how well prepared she is before finally landing in London for the Olympics. Son, a 17-year-old rising star, says, South Korea does not have a very strong presence in the world of rhythmic gymnastics, but I want to show how well Koreans can do in the sport. I will do my best. Yes, South Korea has never been considered a serious contender in rhythmic gymnastics, but now has new hope with Son. Will she hasten the coming of daybreak to Korean rhythmic gymnastics? Lets see this summer.
33

in the world of gymnastics feels almost like an early dawn draped in fresh, bluish light, heralding a great day ahead. She has attracted attention from the world of international rhythmic gymnastics as well as her compatriots. Son Yeon-jae was ranked 11 in the
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individual all-around at the 31 Rhythmic Gymnastics World Championships of the Fdration Internationale de gymnastique (FIG) in Montpellier, France, last September, garnering her a berth at the upcoming London Summer Olympic Games. This was a major improvement from her performance at the 2010 Rhythmic Gymnastics World Championships in Moscow, where she finished 32 . This young lady born in 1994 reportedly had to contend with emotional issues just before the full start of the new season as well as injuries from the preceding GrandPrix competition in Moscow. The best result South Korea had seen in a major international competition before this was Shin Su-jis ranking of 12 . The world has recognized the potential of Son. Le gymnaste, a French monthly by the Fdration Franaise de gymnastique (FFG), made her the cover model for its April edition and ran an interview with her under the title Explosive Growth. When your reporter for KOREA interviews her, she shows nonchalance towards how the world sees her. She has been working on a new club program that includes many technically
th nd

st

2 1 Son Yeon-jae ranks 6th in ribbon at the recent World Cup at Pesaro. 2 Son Yeon-jae train. for the gold medal at the London Olympics.

SOn YeOn-JAe

tricky movements and is focused on the World Cup in Pesaro in April this year. She is pressing herself to concentrate and concentrate on herself so that her body will become one with the apparatus she manipulates. She wants to be governed by the thought, The program is me, the apparatus is me. More persistence and concentration in training is required because the individual all-around score is what will ultimately matter at the London Olympics. There will be no medal for any specific event per apparatus.

The Rising Star of Korea Rhythmic Gymmastics is Reaching for the Gold
Son Yeon-jae is a South Korean rookie in the world of rhythmic gymnastics. Recording increasingly higher scores at international competitions, she is revving up peoples expectations of her at the upcoming 2012 London Olympics. She even broke her jinx in ribbon gymnastics, which had afflicted her in nearly all major competitions, by making it to the final round in ribbon at the Rhythmic Gymnastics World Cup in Pesaro, Italy last month. Lets meet this ambitious gymnast. by Im Sang-beom / Photographs provided by IB Sports
32 korea may 2012

GloBal KoRea

KOREA PRT PROjECTS Korea PRT focuses on projects that support public health and medical service, education, agriculture, governance, and police training. This February, KOICA completed the expansion of the Charikar Medical Center located in the capital of Parwan. This is in addition to the medical center operating at Bagram Air Field. There are also plans for constructing three new health centers. In education, 480 local residents benefit from Korea PRT programs. The Charikar Cultural and Educational Center offers courses on Dari (one of the official languages of Afghanistan), sewing, and hair styling. The Bagram vocational schools offer car repair and welding training. The 200 students who completed the Bagram vocational school program last year were all hired within the area, and competition for school enrollment continues to rise. With its commitment to improving school conditions in Parwan, Korea PRT plans to provide desks, chairs, and chalkboards to 450 schools in the province and build five new schools for 5,000 students. For agricultural development, model farms will be established to conduct research on plant breeding techniques. Plans are also in place to replace seven bridges that are
2 1

Korea Reaches Out to Afghanistan

South Korea joins the international community in the reconstruction of Afghanistan.
by Julianna Chung / photographs provided by the ROK PRT force

constantly damaged in floods with reinforced concrete steel structures. To raise Afghan governance capabilities, Korea PRT sends Afghan provincial leaders to Korea so that they can benchmark its best governance practices. Those in agriculture are sent on such trips as well. In 2011, 144 KOREA PRT EFFORTS CONTINUE FOR LASTING EFFECTS KOICA Director Kwon Oh-sung of the Korea PRT base in Charikar runs the many Korea PRT projects with one purpose in mind. The focus is to ensure the self-sufficiency of the Afghan people after we leave the country. The director also has a personal longing. I hope the Afghan people will remember Korea as a friendly neighbor. Even at this moment, Korea PRT continues with its efforts to pave the way for a brighter future for Afghanistan.
35

people were sent to Korea for various purposes hen the Korea Provincial Reconstruction Team began work in Parwan Province, and Trade, the Ministry of National Defense, the National Police Agency, and the Korea International Cooperation Agency (KOICA). Korea PRT operates as a joint civilianmilitary project; civilian agencies supervise and carry out most of the reconstruction work while Korean special forces of the Ashena unit oversee site security. The various agency its unit for the mission of improving quality of life for the Afghan people and giving hope to the wartorn country. including training on increasing grape productivity, rural development, and improving gender equality. There are seven programs in Korea scheduled for 140 people this year. Korea PRT also helps improve public order in Parwan by overseeing the local police training program. At the police training center that was officially recognized by the local government, 40 delegates of the Korea National Police Agency teach taekwondo and arrest techniques to local police recruits.

Afghanistan in July 2010, the local residents had doubts about the teams initiative. After 20 months, the Korea Provincial Reconstruction Teams efforts are not only appreciated by the community but also recognized by the local government. The Korea Provincial Reconstruction Team (Korea PRT) consists of approximately 450 personnel from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs

1 Local students attend a sewing machine class at Charikar Cultural and Educational Center 2 Korea PRT is constructing three public health centers in Afghanistan.

34 korea may 2012

SPECIAL ISSUE

Experience the Global Village in Yeosu

How to Enjoy Expo 2012 yEosu korEa

The sea off Yeosu is boisterous. A grand global party of 106 countries is taking place. Come to the Yeosu Expo, one of the worlds three greatest festivals of this year, and have fun and see how humanity is exploring ways to coexist with the sea and create a better future.
by Lee Jeong-eun, Kim Min-seon / Photographs provided by the Organizing Committee of Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea

At the Big-O, laser and holographic images are projected on a water screen.

36 korea may 2012

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SkY towEr Sky Tower rises 67 meters, the tallest building at the Expo site. It has a cultural space with symbolic meaning as it is made out of disused cement silos. Outside the tower is an enormous pipe organ in the shape of a harp. The pipe organ can be heard for six kilometers in every direction and even made it into the Guinness Book of World Records on October 21, 2011, as

71% . 75% 97% . 50% . 90% . .

the loudest pipe organ.

MarinE lifE paVilion/aquariuM The Aquarium is the largest in Korea. It is as

71% . 75% 97% .

large as two soccer stadiums and houses 34,000 marine creatures of 300 species including rare species such as Baikal seals, beluga whales, sea horses, and sea dragons. The Aquarium comprises 34 water tanks, small and large, including the Anchovy Water Tank, where schools of 6,000 sardines move like dancing groups, and the Aqua Dome Water Tank, in which all four sides are transparent so that you can see the inside from any direction. Inside the Aquarium is the Marine Life Pavilion, which houses mudflat and marine ecosystem centers. intErnational paVilion
02 06 12 18

50% . 90% . .

, . . .

, . . . . .

. .

1 Overhead view of the Yeosu Expo. 2 The International Pavilion represents the archipelago of the Aegean Sea.

he International Exposition Yeosu Korea 2012, abbreviated as Expo 2012 Yeosu

an enormous harp. Roughly 100 performances and other events take place every day. Numerous laser shows and fireworks displays are impressive. Multimedia shows on a screen formed with water present exciting stories. On the streets are plays, ballets, and dance performances themed on the sea. All of the hottest South Korean K-pop stars and actors and actresses come on the stage, and foreign superstars and classical artists also perform. Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea is also a global village festival where 106 countries sport their traditional dances and other performances. Specific countries are highlighted on certain days.
? .

93 . 2012

93 . 2012

Korea or more simply as the Yeosu Expo, takes place under the theme of the Living Ocean and Coast in and around the new Port of Yeosu in the province of Jeollanam-do from May 12 to August 12. Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea showcases the past, present, and future of the sea. Cuttingedge technologies applied to every corner of the Expo site entertain and engage visitors. Visitors can even see, touch, and feel the world of marine robots at the DSME Marine Robot Pavilion, and enjoy an LED screen with the worlds best resolution and three-dimensional sound system at the Expo Digital Gallery. Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea is a gigantic gallery. Each building is a unique work of art. The Theme Pavilion is the first-ever offshore exhibition facility in South Korea; the Korean Pavilion is designed after the yin-yang symbol at the center of South Koreas national flag; the International Pavilion expresses the scenery of the archipelago in the sea south of the Korean Peninsula; and the Sky Tower is in the shape of

meters in diameter. It has a gigantic offshore fountain and an offshore stage called Ieodo that submerges and resurfaces during performances, and other facilities for shows, performances, and other events. The center of the Big-O surrounded by the outer rim is simply open and this open space becomes a water screen on which laser or holographic images are projected. The Big-Os multimedia show runs every day from 9:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Expo DiGital GallErY (EDG) Digital Gallery has a huge lightpanel display on the across the center of the

This is where 105 countries hold exhibitions. As the Expo is themed on the sea, the International Pavilion is designed to show the beauty of the archipelago in the sea south of the Korean Peninsula, especially when it is draped in fog. Individual national pavilions are grouped by the three oceans of the Atlantic, the Pacific, 2012 and the on the second floor of the International Pavilion, where visitors can taste different foods and buy specialties and, the countries. souvenirs of
.

Indian. Participating countries run restaurants . .

Must-see facilities
BiG-o
02

, , 4 ! The Expo

. ceiling that goes

emitting diode (LED) ,

thEME paVilion anD oCBpa , , ,

If you see the Theme Pavilion from land, it looks

like a breaching sperm whale, but if you see it
, from the sea, the pavilion looks like a beautiful 100 Within the 2012 coastline and anisland. . pavilion are 1 12

(Blue Economy) . 2012 .

The Big-O is a facility on the sea that connects 06 the breakwater off the12 Port of Yeosu to new
18

International Pavilion. This high-tech display of 218 meters by 30 meters shows moving images of marine creatures and video clips such as

the Yeosu Peninsula. It looks like the Simcheong Jeon (a traditional Korean folk story) letter
O, representing the word ocean, and is 35 and a fabled story of mermaids. . . , ,

a 20-meter-long wall screen and a domed screen 2 3 with a diameter of five meters. They make you feel as if you are under the sea. On the second
39

recommended routes by Different Visitor

faMiliES
Recommended Route: OCBPA Climate Environment Pavilion International Organizations Pavilion DSME Marine Robot Pavilion Fisheries Experience Zone (Ocean) Energy Park
1 2

tourist DEstinations nEar yEosu

SunChEon, an EColoGiCal trEaSurE houSE
Suncheon Bay is one of the worlds five most important wetlands along with the coast of the North Sea in Europe and the wetland at the mouth of the Amazon River. A reed field stretches 5.4 kilometers to the north, and a vast wetland runs 22.6 kilometers to the south. In spring, reed shoots come out and glitter in light green under the sun; growing taller than adults and waving deep green in the wind. This is something you should not miss. You are also strongly recommended to see the two famous temples of Songgwangsa and Seonamsa as well as Nagan Eupseong, a village preserved as it was 600 years ago.
1 1 The Boseong green tea field is picturesque scenery one must see. 2 The name of the village is Gacheon Daraengi Maeul. Daraengi means terraced rice paddies on mountain slopes.

They will see the 13 best marine practices, efforts to preserve and use the sea, and marine robots. They will also embark on a deep sea fishing vessel, try using traditional fishing gear, and learn about the seas critical role in shaping

1 The Korea Pavilion presents the capabilities of Korea as a leading maritime nation. 2 The Sky Tower is created from a pair of abandoned silos. A pipe organ is installed in the shape of a harp on the exterior of the Sky Tower.

floor is the Ocean and Coast Best Practice Area (OCBPA). It is an experiential analogue exhibition hall where best practices on the sea and coastal areas from around the world are showcased. thE korEa paVilion The Korea Pavilion has a media hall and an exhibition hall, which is designed after the yin-yang symbol at the center of South Koreas national flag. These two halls showcase the countrys capabilities in the marine area. The scenery of the archipelago in the sea south of the Korean Peninsula, a coastal area covered with round pebbles, people working on the shore of an estuary, terraced rice paddies by a coast, the Bangudae Petroglyphs (engraved rock art from the Prehistoric Age), and the story of Jang Bogo, who was a powerful maritime figure in the late Unifed Silla Kingdom, are shown as dioramas and videos in real-life size.

the planets climate and environment. BuSinESS pEoplE

Recommended Route: International Organizations Pavilion Corporate Pavilions Theme Pavilion Marine Industrial & Technology Pavilion Local Governments Pavilion International Pavilion

BoSEonG, GrEEn tEa

The hills of Boseong appear as if they are covered by an endless green carpet. Boseong is the center of green tea cultivation in Korea. There is also a path through a thick forest of cedar trees that was blazed 55 years ago. It is so beautiful that it is frequently used as a setting for movies and TV commercials. The path cuts through the forest of 20-meter cedar trees, and walking on it is refreshing for both the mind and body. From the top of the green tea fields, you can see Deungyang Bay. Every May, green barley and wheat ripple like the sea in the wind.
2

This route effectively presents the theme of the Expo, local governments and Korean companies marine technologies, and countries multifarious efforts for green growth. CouplES
Recommended Route: Korea Pavilion Aquarium Big-O Marine Civilization & City Pavilions Sky Tower Energy Park

naMhaE anD thE BEautiful CoaStlinE

The CNN recently designated 50 must-see destinations in South Korea, the village of Namhae was third on the list. The name of the village is Gacheon Daraengi Maeul. Daraengi means terraced rice paddies on mountain slopes. The staircase of the daraengi in the village runs down with more than 100 steps to the coast of the clean blue waters of the sea south of the Korean Peninsula. Seosang Port in Namhae sells tickets to Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea. A passenger ship from Seosang Port or Norang Port in Namhae will bring you to the Expo site in only 20 to 30 minutes.

Multimedia shows, fountain shows, pipe organ performances, cute marine animals, and the open scenery of the sea will make the hearts of couples flutter. haDonG anD GwanGYanG with waVY watEr anD flowEr pathS
Hadong and Gwangyang are ensconced by the Seomjingang, a river famous for its clear water, and look down on the sea south of the Korean Peninsula. The landscape is naturally decorated with brooks and flowers of the most heavenly beauty. Hwagae Jangteo in Hadong is a traditional Korean marketplace and sells wild herb teas from Jirisan

tips for .
Ticket Reservations
.

2102

yEosu Expo visitors

Climate Environment Pavilion, Marine Industrial & Technology Pavilion, Marine Civilization & City Pavilions, Marine Life Pavilion, Aquarium, and DSME Marine Robot Pavilion.

You can reserve tickets on the homepage of , Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea at . www.expo2012.kr or , , , shopping at the online . mall Interpark at www.interpark.com. Industrial Bank of Korea, Kwangju Bank, and E-Mart also sell tickets. The standard day , pass is KRW 33,000 for adults (approx. USD 30), KRW 25,000 for adolescents (approx. USD 23), and . 01 102 0 2 19,000 for children or seniors 1 1 If you (approx. USD 17). 2 reserve tickets, you may reserve visits to two 2 the 3 of eight pavilions to avoid having to stand in line. The eight pavilions are the Theme Pavilion, Korea Pavilion,

anotHEr fEstival on top of yEosu Expo

Boseong Dahyang Festival Being the largest tea producer and the birthplace of the domestic tea industry, Boseong holds a green tea festival every May (May 16-20). The name of the festival is Dahyangje, which means tea scent festival. The festival features many different activities including a ritual to pray for an abundant harvest of tea, nipping tea leaves, and tea making. For more information, please visit www. dahyang.boseong.go.kr.

. ? One-stop Call Center Launched for Yeosu Expo ! 4 , ,fresh produce, marsh clams collected from (Mt. Jiri), Visitors The Organizing Committee for Expo 2012 , the Yeosu Seomjingang, and other local specialties. Korea launched a one-stop call center on March . 15 The fields and hills of Maehwa Maeul (Ume Flower to provide information on exhibitions, performances, )ymonocE eulB( . Village) are covered with white ume flowers in transportation, and accommodations to those from , home and abroad planning to visit Yeosu Expo. From early spring and then with their fruits in May and . 2102 April 16 to the last day of the Expo, August 12, a total of June. 30 operators will provide services every day from 8am to 11pm in Korean, English, Chinese, and Japanese. The phone number for the call center is 1577-2012.
, , . .

41

SPECIAL ISSUE

he four major rivers in South Koreathe Hangang, Nakdonggang, Yeongsangang,

StrollinG alonG thE riVErS Garam Gil is a series of trekking paths along the four rivers that embody history and culture. They say that a stroll on Garam Gil is not a mere walk, but a time travelling experience. The Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism and the Korea Tourism Organization are running the Garam Gil Story Program until May 6, in which participants tour Garam Gil areas that have appeared in novels with the authors. CaMpinG on thE riVErSiDES Interest in camping has shot up in recent years in Korea, and to campers luck, they will soon have two more campgrounds near the two rivers of the Yeongsangang and Geumgang. The Ipobo Campsite by the Hangang and the Hapgangjeong Campsite by the Geumgang are already extremely popular and are now 100 percent and 90 percent reserved, respectively. The Office of National River Restoration plans to open a total of 18 camping sites along the four rivers. On March 31, 40 families participated in the Family Camping Day at the Ipobo Campsite with champion mountaineer Um Hong-gil. Um, an avid camper, led the program with presentations on mountain expeditions and camping experiences.

and Geumganghave become venues for families and friends to engage in all manner of leisure activities including cycling, trekking, and camping. People are now able to enjoy the lovely scenery and history of Korea through leisure activities. roaMinG thE nation on two whEElS

The nationwide bicycle path project started in early 2010 and will be completed this year with the opening of the Nakdonggang bicycle path in April. Korea will then have a 1,757-kilometer path that connects the four major rivers in the country. The path is designed to attract amateur cyclists with its diverse and various bicycle paths along the beautiful riverside sceneries. The commemorative medal issued by the Ministry of Land, Transport and Maritime Affairs and the Ministry of Public Administration and Security to those who have cycled all the bicycle paths along the four rivers will also be a tempting reward for cyclists. Tour de Korea 2012, the only road cycling competition in Korea, will began on April 22, using many of these new bicycle paths. The race will cover more than 1,800 kilometers and pass through ten major cities including Incheon, Buyeo, Gwangju, Yeosu, and Yeoju.
Photographs by Park Kwan-yeong

rivErs,

the new national playgrounds

In cooperation with kspo, www.4rivers.go.kr

Outdoor enthusiasts, sportsmen, and families in South Korea have much to look forward to this springand its not just the warm weather. by Julianna Chung

Interest in camping has increased tremendously in Korea in recent years. It is enjoyed as an outing event with family and friends.

42 korea may 2012

43

FLAVOR

Yeongsangang Bicycle Path The Yeongsangang Bicycle Path runs 133 kilometers from Damyang to Mokpo along the Yeongsan River. It has fewer slopes and is relatively short, making it especially suitable for family visitors. There are a number of excellent exercise and rest areas, restrooms, and picnic facilities. Bikers can enjoy the scenery of the Naju Plain, the pride of the Honam region, along some sections of the path. Geumgang Bicycle Path The Geumgang Bicycle Path runs 146 kilometers along the Geumgang from the Daecheong Dam to the Geumgang Estuary. There are several bird sanctuaries and ecological parks along the way. The Geumgang Bicycle Path is a must for history buffs, as the path runs through Gongju and Buyeo, where there are numerous remains of the Baekje Kingdom.

A closed railroad is reborn as a part of the Namhangang Bicycle Path.

a CloSEr look at thE BiCYClE pathS

kkotgejjim

Namhangang Bicycle Path The Namhangang Bicycle Path runs 143 kilometers from the Paldang Bridge to the Chungju Dam along the Hangang, taking cyclists from Seoul to Yangpyeong in the province of Gyeonggi-do. The path runs along the old Jungang Railroad, which commands a spectacular panoramic scene of the river and passes a number of popular riverside cafs. Famous historic sites near the Namhangang path are Joseon Dynasty scholar Jeong Yak-yong birthplace and Dumulmeori, the confluence of the Bukhangang and Namhangang. Saejae Bicycle Path The Saejae Bicycle Path runs 100 kilometers over a mountain pass from Chungju in Chungcheongbuk-do to Sangju in Gyeongsangbuk-do, connecting the Hangang and Nakdonggang. Some sections of the Saejae Bicycle Path are very challenging and are popular among mountain bikers. The path passes by Suanbo and Mungyeong Hot Springs, where bikers can take a bath and relax. Bikers can also see the beautiful 20-meter Suok Falls.

tour DE korEa 2012

Modeled after the Tour de France, the worlds premier cycling competition, the Tour de Korea started with the aim of promoting bicycling among Koreans. The first tour in 2007 gained national attention with the participating of Lance Armstrong, the seven-time Tour de France winner. The Tour de Korea is divided into two sections: the Elite section for the invited teams composed of UCIregistered bicyclists and the Special section for cyclists who pass a pre-test conducted by the Tour de Korea committee. More than 130 professional riders in 22 teams from across the world, along with some 200 amateur riders, will compete in the Tour de France 2012. The participants will ride more than 1,800 kilometers during the eight-day event. A total of 300 million won will be awarded at the race.

Steamed Crab with Garnishes of Five Colors

The spawning season for blue crab in Korea runs from early May to June. In the royal court of the Joseon Dynasty, blue crab was considered a seasonal delicacy and was steamed with garnishes of five colors (osaek gomyeong). Eating crab meat from the shell can be difficult, but it was deemed noble for the king to handle and endure such hard work with elegance. So the chefs of the royal kitchen prepared the steamed crab by taking out all the crab meat and making a filling by mixing it with ground beef and tofu. The filling was then spooned onto the upside-down trimmed crab shell, topped with garnishes of five colors, and gently steamed. This was kkotgejjim. Just like many other fine Korean dishes, serving kkotgejjim is a way of showing respect and consideration for guests.
by Chung Da-young photographs by Moon Duk-gwan food & styling by Kim Young-bin with assistance from Noh Shin-young
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44 korea may 2012

MY KOREA

rock climbing in jEju

David Holmes describes the passion he found for exploring Jeju Islands scenic riverbeds. by David Holmes / illustrations by Moon Su-min

started rock-climbing in high school in New Zealand, but didnt really climb again for

the only thing I thought about. Any fine day my girlfriend and I squashed onto our motorbike with the ridiculous crash pad strapped to one of our backs like a large black sail and headed off to an unpopulated riverbed wed found on our map. The riverbeds between Seogwipo and Jungmun resort area provided much opportunity to explore for climbable rock, with dry low waterfalls providing fun scrambling and the odd pool for the most private and refreshing of dips. On the way home we could always stop by the stunning beach at Jungmun for a real ocean swim. The beauty of the places we went to is hard to describe. We were punch-drunk on the feeling we had struck gold in spending our first year in Korea on such an amazingly scenic island. Certainly we tried to take advantage of that, spending long days outdoors, picnicking at the riverbeds and riding the motorcycle along the coastlines and small roads between citrus farms as we traveled home from rambles scoping new climbing locations, or secret coastal swimming spots. Wed stop when we spied a clear blue river pool to drop into and wash away all the weeks stress and the sideline issues of acclimating to a new culture. Just as likely wed end up scrambling up and down the river to scope out some more quite possibly completely undiscovered problems, staying out late in the twig hlight with the looming silhouette of Hallasan soft in the
47

seven years. In Jeju I rediscovered the urge to climb as much as I found a passion to explore. Many travellers to Jeju may have heard of Jeongbang and Cheonjyeon waterfalls, and many go there to hike the volcano (Hallasan) or for the beaches in the summer, but there are many unpopulated, beautiful natural river spots too, and these are especially attractive for rockclimbing enthusiasts. Living in Seogwipo, Jeju from 2004 to 2005, I found I had plenty of time outside of teaching hours and lots of scenic places to discover. The two things lent themselves to taking up rockclimbing again: freely bouldering around on large blocks of rock in dry riverbeds that run down from the volcano to the sea. Rock in Jeju is highly porous, and the rivers dry quickly excepting days immediately following rain. One of my goals during my stay was to explore a riverbed from the lowland amongst orange farms all the way up high into the national park surrounding the volcano. With encouragement from a keen friend I bought rock-climbing shoes, and a crash pad (to drop onto in the event of failing to climb a boulder; or a sudden fall) and so the second phase of my rock-climbing life started. In September 2004 I began discovering scenic places in riverbeds to climb all over the south side of Jeju, and by spring 2005 climbing was

46 korea may 2012

LEARn KOREAn

How mucH is tHis apple?

Have you ever been to a Korean traditional market? Called Shijang in Korea, a marker offers a close look into the culture, history, and daily life of Korea. It is also one of the most visited tourist attractions, not just for shopping, but for enjoying local culture and food unique to the area.

Lets buy some interesting goods at a sijang .

A: ?
How much is this apple?

B: 1,000.
One is 1,000 won.

i sagwa eolma-ye-yo?

han gae-e cheonwonieyo.

- This - is attached to a counting unit (such as ) and describes the unit of measurement. For instance, which means one thousand won, is the unit of measurement. -() -() is used when making a request or giving a command. -() is attached to the verb stem ending in a consonant, and - is attached to the verb stem ending in a vowel. There are two number systems in Korean. We have a pure Korean number system, which is used for smaller, more common numbers. It is the system beginning with , , . We also have the sino-Korean system, which is used most commonly for larger numbers. This system begins with , ,

C: .
Give me five apples.

D: , . 5,000.
Here it is. It comes to 5,000 won.

daseot gae ju-se-yo.

distance. Problems are what climbers call an attempted but incomplete climb. Like a jigsaw puzzle that requires the right combination of pieces to see the picture complete, climbers work on sequences of physical moves in order to find ways to solve problems. A clean climb in a sensible sequence with an apt balance of grace and power paints a pretty picture. Although I once rope climbed at the picturesque Oedolgae seacliffs on the Seogwipo side, my favorite training spot was at Donnaeko, where twice a week on fine days during 2005 I would roar out to the river area on the motorbike. At the campsite playground an artificial bouldering wall was
AbOUt thE WRItER
David Holmes is a New Zealander from Wellington who has lived in Seoul since 2007. He lectures in the Department of English Language and Literature at Korea University. He still regularly visits Jeju, and enjoys the relatively wide open spaces the island offers. For visitors to South Korea, he recommends experiencing the people and countryside of South Korea beyond Seoul, and has a number of climbing trips planned on the mainland for 2012.

riverbeds are more like small canyons. Many of these riverbeds are bursting with more plant and animal life than I can name: frogs, water-snakes, birds, squirrels and of course a few insects can regularly be seen. Plants and trees picturesquely overhang the tops of the riverbanks many meters above the canyon walls. They are stunning cool places which provide some shade from the boiling sun. To everyones benefit, some of these places have now been turned into established rock-climbing locations with bolted protection and anchors, making them safe and easily accessible for new climbers, locals, and experts alike. Three river areas on the Jeju city side are: Musucheon, Daramjwigul, and Guldari. After I left Jeju, I didnt climb again for close to three years until I returned to South Korea once more. Rock-climbing here is accessible and popular, which means there are many established areas to visit and enjoy. Seouls little wall is Insubong for those who prefer multipitch climbs. The rural mainland offers plenty too with Seonunsan National Park perhaps the pick for sport climbers, yet Jeju offers scope for exploration and bouldering that doesnt quite feel the same anywhere else.
1 2 3 4 5 6

ne, yeogiyo. modu ocheonwon-imnida.

7 8 9 10 50

il

sam

sa

yuk

chil

pal

gu

sip

osip

hana 100

dul

set

net

yeol

swin

daseot yeoseot ilgop yeodeol ahop

1,000 10,000

baek

cheon

man

Lets practice Try to make a conversation with the following vocabulary.

milk

freely accessible next to the traditional chicken restaurant. Id be there by 10:30 (when it was already burning hot) in May to climb in the baking sunshine for an hour completely undisturbed, until satisfied that Id done enough, Id rush to the river: crashing down the verdant banks to find a deserted, idyllic swimming pool for a refreshing shallow swim. It was all about the ring of cicadas in your ears and basking like a lizard on top of rocks while drying off. On the Jeju City side a number of the

pen

bread

rice wine

uyu

pen

ppang

makgeolli

* tip: makgeolii is counted as byeong (#6), not as gae ().

48 korea may 2012

49