Pyrenees

Nature and culture

The Catalan Pyrenees

The sources of the Llobregat River in Castellar de nHug

The Catalan Pyrenees is a land of rich landscapes full of contrasts, with spaces of natural interest, special protection reserves and protected areas; some Romanesque architecture declared World Heritage; and valleys full of history. Its excellent gastronomy and hundred-year-old festivals and celebrations make the Catalan Pyrenees an unrivalled tourist destination.

cata
Val dAran Vielha

Andorra
Llvia El Pont de Suert Sort La Seu dUrgell Ripoll Puigcerd

France

Figueres

Pirineus
Tremp Solsona Olot Berga Costa Brava

Girona Terres de Lleida Catalunya Central Lleida

Costa de Barcelona-Maresme Costa del Garraf Barcelona

Costa Daurada Tarragona Terres de lEbre

Mediterranean Sea

Catalonia
Val dAran Costa Brava

lonia
Introduction Aigestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park: A setting sculpted by the ice Protected natural spaces: Nature at its purest Val dAran: Small Occitan country Vall de Bo: World Heritage Contrasting valleys: Bustling riverbanks La Seu dUrgell: Crossroads of the Pyrenees Olot: Volcanic town Solsona: Stone roots Mountain towns Medieval essence Counts of the Pyrenees Route Mountain life Active tourism The culture of fire: A year brimming with feasts and festivals Cuisine: A burst of ancestral flavours General information

is Pyrenees
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Pedraforca, a nearly mythic mountain

The Catalan Pyrenees, a vast mountain range

To the east, the Tramontana northerly wind caresses the bronzed coastline of the Albera mountains. Inland, volcanoes punctuate the Garrotxa landscape. Towering above the sanctuary in Nria, the Pyrenees soar to almost three thousand metres in height. The Cad and Moixer ranges, as well as the Pedraforca massif, conceal natural alpine treasures as if they were secluded on an island. Catalonias highest mountain peak is Pica dEstats, reaching 3,143 metres. A stones throw away lies Aigestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park, a paradisiacal landscape of lakes. And, to the north, Val dAran lays bare to the plains of Gascony. From Cap de Creus peninsula to the views over Aneto, the Catalan Pyrenees boast a rich diversity of landscapes. The climate varies from valley to valley, from the crystalline waters of the Mediterranean where the mountains meet the sea to the Atlantic winds that sweep the clouds as far as Val dAran. Mention must also be made of the snow capping the lofty peaks for six months of the year. The sunlight, temperature, precipitation and human activity determine the rich flora and, with it, the fauna.

Cap de Creus

Otter

Pica dEstats, the roof of Catalonia

The Pyrenees were also populated of old. Testimony to every era is profuse, from the dolmens and menhirs in the Albera mountains to the latest reservoirs. Whats more, the history of the land came into being there. Romanesque churches dating from that time still survive to this day in virtually every town and village. And modern times are manifested in an exuberant culture, brimming with legends, gastronomic delights, song, dance and popular festivities. In the pages that follow we endeavour to whet your appetite. We cannot aspire to anything more, as the entire repertoire is endless. A land steeped in character, the Catalan Pyrenees were coveted by those in pursuit of a relaxing or adventure-fuelled break. The mountains are strewn with trails, snow sought out by skiing enthusiasts in winter, walls for climbing, and rivers to explore by kayak. From beginning to end, the Pyrenees abound in an infinite array of tourist attractions.

Lakes and lacustrine cirque of Baiau

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Aigestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park A setting sculpted by the ice
With majestic peaks rising to three thousand metres, cliffs, scree, snow drifts, hundreds of lakes, waters churning into spray and foam or drifting lazily, meadows, forests of black pine with an undergrowth of bilberries and rhododendron, fir and beech trees, the izard, the capercaillie and a gliding bearded vulture, the National Park boasts a rich and unique high mountain landscape which attracts thousands of visitors year on year.
Aigestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park
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Josep Maria Blanc mountain refuge at Tort de Peguera Lake

European Rowan (Sorbus aucuparia)

Alpine Gentian (Gentiana alpina)

Common Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea)

Over five hundred million Early on, vegetation years ago, took root in the empty the folding commenced which was to form the Pyrenees spaces mountain range. Nevertheless, it was the force of the ice
which was to shape the mountains and valleys of the National Park. The mighty glaciers descended through the valleys for tens of kilometres, reaching several hundred metres in diameter and gouging steep-sided crevices into the landscape. The final throes of the ice age ended ten thousand years ago. When the glaciers melted, they left behind deep cirques and u-shaped valleys with flat floors and vertical walls. On every shelf, lagoons bear testimony to the glaciers presence. The National Park is home to hundreds of lakes, a concentration not found elsewhere in the mountain range. Birch, oak and aspen, as well as beech, red pine and fir trees climbed the hillsides. Black pine spread even higher with an undergrowth of bilberries, rhododendron and juniper berries, while the higher peaks gave way to meadows carpeted with gentiana, carnations and buttercups. The water violet took root in the peat bogs. Houseleeks and saxifrages grew amidst the scree while moss and lichen sprang up on mountain summits and smooth stone walls.

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Llong Lake
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The high and unforgiving terrain meant few people set foot there, Each area also has its own fauna
Izards inhabit the mountain summits and open ridge tops. Ptarmigans hide in snow-covered hillsides while golden eagles, bearded vultures and vultures sweep through the sky. The shrill whistle of the marmot is often heard in the fields. In the woodlands, where wild boars and roe deer lurk, the tapping of the woodpecker or clucking of the capercaillie at mating time can be heard. Otters prey on trout in the rivers. except shepherds who brought flocks there to pasture every summer for centuries. Huts bear testimony to their passage. Woodcutters and hunters also ventured there, and the development of hydroelectric power at the beginning of the last century brought forces to dam the lakes and extend the pipes to direct the water downwards to the hydroelectric plants. Such frenzy gave rise to the need to protect the high mountain landscape. Therefore, Aigestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park was constituted by decree in 1955, the only park boasting said status in Catalonia, which was reclassified by Law 7/1988 on 30 March 1988 by the Government of Catalonia.

Sant Maurici Lake

Marmot

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Aigestortes

The National Park sits astride

the counties of Alta Ribagora to Pallars Sobir, taking in the counties of Pallars Juss and Val dAran; covering a surface area of 40,852 hectares of which 14,119 hectares correspond to the park and the remaining 26,733 hectares to the buffer zone. As its name suggests, it is split into two main zones: Aigestortes in Alta Ribagora, with an entry point via Vall de Bo, and Sant Maurici in Pallars Sobir, with an entry point via Vall dEspot. Each zone has a park information centre.

The Aigestortes zone

features pinnacles rising above three thousand metres. In addition to Punta Alta, mention should be made of the crest line linking Comaloformo and Besiberris. The valley receiving the most visitors is the valley stretching from Vall de Bo and following the Sant Nicolau River. It can be accessed on foot or by taxi and it takes you to Llebreta Lake and the plains where the river meanders and branches off into many streams and torrents, hence its name Aigestortes, which means twisted waters. The valley continues towards Llong Lake as far as Portarr dEspot pass, where it changes basin and moves to the parks eastern valley slope.

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Montardo peak

The Sant Maurici zone

can be reached by taxi from Espot or on foot. Sant Maurici Lake is surrounded by meadows and woodland. It lies at the foot of the towering pinnacles Els Encantats, a highly fragmented calcareous rock formation. Legend has it that the mountains represent two hunters who turned to stone for not having attended Mass. The track leading to Sant Maurici Lake continues upwards to the Amitges lakes beneath the mountains of the same name, which draw many climbing enthusiasts. Another entrance to the park from Pallars Sobir is found below Bonaigua pass and climbs to Gerber Lake amid a luxuriant woodland of fir trees. Access to the park can also be gained via Pallars Juss above Vall Fosca. A cable car ascends from Sallente reservoir to Gento Lake. The descent can be made on foot, first by following the tracks of the old narrow gauge railway, which transported goods to the reservoirs; then, the path descends straight down to Sallente.

In the Val dAran zone,

mention should be made of the Montardo summit, which is easily made out. However, Gran Tuc de Colomers surpasses its height by one hundred metres and stands at 2,963 metres. The pinnacle towers above a large cirque where the streams cascade from one lake to the other (over sixty lakes) before spilling into the Garonne River.

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Aigestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park

is a gorgeous area, a natural jewel, a prodigious combination of stone, water and vegetation. At the same time, it constitutes a fragile environment susceptible to the hazards posed by so much tourism. Activities likely to leave any traces are to be avoided. Those wishing to stay overnight should make advance bookings in the mountain refuges situated within the park. The new trail which links the nine mountain refuges, known as Carros de Foc, has particularly gained popularity. It should not be forgotten that the National Park is an alpine landscape: a storm can brew in a matter of hours, temperatures can plummet and snowfall is possible at any time of year. Therefore, visitors should always be well-equipped for any eventuality.

Aigestortes is a natural jewel, a prodigious combination of stone, water and vegetation.

Sant Nicolau River in the Aigestortes zone

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Pastures, a natural resource of the Pyrenees

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High mountain hiking

The Park from south to north
Set out from Espot through the Peguera River Valley; at Tork Lake, spend the night at the Josep Maria Blanc mountain refuge. Head for Llastra Lake and Monestero pass, descend to Monestero Lake and follow the valley until Sant Maurici Lake. Spend the night in the Ernest Mallafr mountain refuge. From Port de Ratra in Colomrs, descend to Lac deth Miei. Go to Major de Saboredo Lake, climb the pass between the Agulhes de Saboredo and descend to the Gerber mountain refuge; pass by Gerber Lake and you will reach the C-28 road.
Level of difficulty: Medium; 4 days. Hikers must be equipped and have booked the mountain refuges in advance. Starting point: By car until Espot. Parking another car at the finishing point of the itinerary at the Sanctuary of Mare de Du de les Ares, C-28, is recommended. Further information: Park Information Centre in Espot Refugi Sant Maurici / J. M. Blanc, tel. (+34) 973 250 108, www. jmblanc.com Refugi E. Mallafr, tel. (+34) 973 250 105 Refugi Saboredo, tel. (+34) 973 253 015, www.refugisaboredo.com
For high mountain routes, good maps and route diagrams are necessary.

Information
Points of access to the park Ca de Simamet, Graieres, 2 25528 Vall de Bo Tel. (+34) 973 696 189 Prat del Guarda, 4 25597 Espot Tel. (+34) 973 624 036 Vall Fosca Municipal Tourist Board www.vallfosca.cat Carros de Foc Route www.carrosdefoc.com Natural Parks of Catalonia www.parcsdecatalunya.net Tourist Offices of Sort and Vall de Bo (See page 130, 131)

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Protected natural spaces Nature at its purest

The Catalan Pyrenees play host to myriad natural settings of great interest in terms of their environmental, cultural and architectural value. Some of these locations are afforded various levels of protection in order to preserve the quality and interest of the landscape, the importance of the flora or fauna or the vestiges of human heritage.
Naorte Lake
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Alt Pirineu Natural Park

constitutes the largest natural park in Catalonia. It covers almost seventy thousand hectares of high mountain landscape which has remained virtually unspoilt to the present day. The park is home to an extraordinary diversity of flora and fauna and is set in the heart of the Pyrenees and spanning the counties of Pallars Sobir and Alt Urgell. Among the most treasured spots is Vall de Bonab, home to dense forests of fir and black pine, and Vall drreu, which boasts a magnificent natural landscape that is virtually untouched and only accessible on foot. The Noarre cirque is a place which is practically intact, and the Boavi plain, at the confluence of various valleys, features a rich variety of vegetation. The Virs forest is yet another of the parks natural jewels, and also Vall de Santa Magdalena, featuring settlements, farmhouses and highly esteemed chapels. After several years absence, the brown bear has returned to roam through the land, which is also home to the largest population of the enigmatic capercaillie in the country. Other species include the golden eagle, the bearded vulture, Tengmalms owl, the Ptarmigan, ungulates such as the izard, the red sheep, the roe deer, the fallow deer, the red deer and the wild boar. The extensive network of rivers and lakes are home to a wealth of fish species such as trout, and some one thousand five hundred species of flora are found, a large number of which are endemic to the Pyrenees. The most emblematic and highest mountains in the Pyrenees stand in the most elevated area of the park, such as Pica dEstats, rising to 3,143 metres in height, and constituting Catalonias highest pinnacle. Visitors can become acquainted with the park first hand by following the extensive network of signposted paths and trails on foot or by way of other sporting activities such as mountain biking, snowshoeing, Nordic or Alpine skiing, horseback riding or river pursuits. Nevertheless, one of the parks main cultural attractions are its myriad Romanesque churches and chapels dotted throughout the region, such as Sant Pere del Burgal, Sant Serni de Baiasca,

Shepherds lodge in Alt Pirineu Natural Park

Traditional architecture

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Ars

Santa Maria dneu, Sant Pau dEsterri de Cards, Santa Maria de Ginestarre, Sant Joan dIsil (on the banks of the Noguera Pallaresa River) and Santa Maria de Ribera, to name but a few. The towns and villages preserve interesting examples of traditional architecture and a number of notewor thy historic sites such as the fortified medieval village of Escal and the historic quar ter of Castellb, which exemplif y older systems of urban organisation. Sawmills, the remains of forges, mills, pigeon lofts and coal bunkers are other examples of the use of natural resources in these valleys.

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The northern face of Cad, featuring enormous, almost vertical crags and deep wooded valleys, is one of the parks most emblematic spots.
Church of Sant Joan dIsil

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Arsguel and the Cad range in the background

Cad-Moixer Natural Park

straddles the Cad and Moixer ranges, the Pedraforca massif (declared a Natural Site of National Interest) and Vall de Gresolet, as well as a large part of Tossa dAlp and Puigllanada. The northern face of Cad, featuring enormous, almost vertical crags and deep wooded valleys, is one of the parks most emblematic spots, not to mention the silhouette of Pedraforca, which stands out as a symbol for mountaineering in Catalonia. Other spots of magnificent beauty include the Cad meadows and Roca de lOrdiguer on the northern face of Cad, and Grixer valley on the southern side, above which rises Moixer and which is crowned by the elegant Penyes Altes de Moixer. A large number of towns and villages have retained their traditional architecture, such as Bag, which was the capital of the Barons of Pins and features part of the medieval walls and a beautiful porticoed square, and Bellver de Cerdanya, centre of a former mayoralty which dominates the Segre plain. Other small mountain settlements, all set amid enchanting settings, boast fine examples of civic and religious architecture: Adran, El Querforadat, Cornellana, Cava, Ansovell, Gisclareny, Grixer, Gsol, Gresolet, Bastanist, the Monastery of Sant Lloren prop Bag, the church of Tall, Sant Juli de Pedra, Bor, Coborriu, Tartera, Mosoll, Talltendre, etc.

Albera and Cap de Creus Natural Park

These two locations represent the last outlet of the Pyrenees before spilling into the Mediterranean. The Albera massif, declared a Natural Site of National Interest, forms a natural boundary between two extensive Catalan plains: Empord and Roussillon, taking in peaks such as Puig Neuls (1,257 metres). The western area, from Requesens, features one of the most humid and elevated areas carpeted in cork oak groves, holm oak woods, chestnut groves, oak woods, beech groves and alpine meadows. The eastern area is developed around the Monastery of Sant Quirze de Colera. Albera boasts one of the densest concentrations of megalithic monuments in Europe. The Cap de Creus peninsula features a spectacular maritime landscape combining the beauty of coastal and inland settings. Diverse habitats exist side by side, therefore giving rise to a great diversity of species, some of which are endemic to the area. The Monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes is the crowning glory of the areas rich architectural heritage. A stones throw away lies Aiguamolls de lEmpord Natural Park, the second largest wetland area in Catalonia, with look-out points over the lagoons and floodable meadows.

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Wagon ride in the Fageda den Jord beech wood

Mont-rebei gorge

La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park

A protected and populated area which constitutes the finest example of volcanic terrain on the Iberian Peninsula, this park contains some thirty strombolic volcanic cones, a number of explosive craters and basaltic lava flows. Noteworthy are the basalt cliffs of Castellfollit de la Roca and Sant Joan les Fonts, the volcanoes of Croscat, Santa Margarida and Montsacopa, and the beech wood Fageda den Jord, immortalised in a poem by Joan Maragall. To the north Garrotxa is a more rugged wilderness of crags and gullies, with places as emblematic as Sant Aniol dAguja and Vall del Bac.

Mont-rebei gorge
The Noguera Ribagorana River, on passing through the Montsec mountains, carved this deep gorge in Catalonia which remains intact without being crossed by any road, railway or electricity line. Visitors can enjoy this site of spectacular beauty by means of a track partially dug out of the rock. The walls of the gorge reach vertical heights in excess of five hundred metres.

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Moixer crossing
Set out from Bag heading north. Ascend to the Rebost mountain refuge to stay overnight. Continue to the Orris plain towards Comafloriu pass, Tossa dAlp summit and the Niu de lliga mountain refuge where you can stay the night. Continue over the Moixer crest and ascend Penyes Altes (2,279 m). At Moixer pass, take the path towards Dental mountain pass and you will reach the Sant Jordi refuge. On the last day, descend along the Pends stream until you get to the path which follows the course of the Bastareny River that takes you back to Bag.
Level of difficulty: Medium; 3 days. Starting point: Bag, via the C-16 road, past Guardiola de Bergued. Further information: Cad-Moixer Natural Park Information Office in Bag Refugi de Rebost, tel. (+34) 608 736 714, www.refugirebost.cat Refugi Niu de lliga, tel. (+34) 647 477 774 Refugi Sant Jordi-Font del Faig, tel. (+34) 619 239 860
For high mountain routes, good maps and route diagrams are necessary.

Information
Alt Pirineu Natural Park Ctra. Val dAran, 31 - 25595 Llavors Tel. (+34) 973 622 162 Cad-Moixer Natural Park and Pedraforca Massif Vinya, 1 - 08695 Bag Tel. (+34) 938 244 151 Albera Natural Site of National Interest Rectoria Vella, Amadeu Sudri, 3 17753 Espolla Tel. (+34) 972 545 079 Cap de Creus Natural Park Monestir de Sant Pere de Rodes 17489 El Port de la Selva Tel. (+34) 972 193 191 La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park Casal dels Volcans, av. Santa Coloma, s/n 17800 Olot Tel. (+34) 972 266 202 Mont-rebei gorge Ajuntament de Sant Esteve de la Sarga Tel. (+34) 973 653 377 Natural Parks of Catalonia www.parcsdecatalunya.net

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Val dAran Small Occitan country

Lying at the western end of the Catalan Pyrenees, facing northwards, the valley of Val dAran is home to a whole host of unique attractions not found elsewhere in Catalonia. Its orientation allows the Atlantic winds to blow through it laden with moisture. Rain in Val dAran falls more regularly here than in the rest of the Catalan Pyrenees according to the whims of the Mediterranean. The water from rivers, streams and torrents empties into the Garonne River. This river increases in volume and winds through the Aquitaine plains before draining into the Atlantic.
Gausac
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Like the clouds and the rain,

commerce and culture had free reign in the north. In the south, on the other hand, the mountains made communication difficult with Catalonia and Aragon. For centuries, the snows blocked mountain passes for six months of the year. Therefore, it is not surprising that the Romans entered the valley following the Garonne River and that the language of Aran, Aranese, is a Gascon dialect, now a dialectal variant of Occitan, the language in which medieval troubadours composed their work. History, however, linked Val dAran with the earldoms of Aragon and Catalonia. In 1313, James II granted Val dAran a charter known as the Querimonia privilege, which established considerable tax exemptions. The valley was divided into six terons (geographical division particular to Val dAran), each of which elected a conselher (councillor) to the Conselh Generau (General Council), an institution which remained in existence until 1835 and was restored in 1991.

Upon departing the Vielha tunnel,

the slopes are greener and the climate changes, as do the towns and villages as evident from the pointed pyramidshaped roofs crowning the bell towers. The original layout and architecture of many towns and villages still remain today. On the other hand, Vielha, the chief town, at the centre of the valley, is modern and exuberant. Its name is left over from its Roman origins, and the Romanesque and Gothic features in the Church of Sant Miquu harken to its medieval past. Inside, the finest work of art is Crist de Mijaran, a carved Romanesque figure which is part of a Descent from the Cross. The towns historic quarter is home to notable mansions such as Casa de Santesmasses, also known as Tor deth Generau Martinhon. It houses the Val dAran Museum, which provides a comprehensive overview of the region.

Tor River

Arties

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Late Gothic paintings in the Church of Sant Andru in Salard

Crist de Mijaran in the Church of Sant Miquu in Vielha

Artistic heritage is speckled throughout the valley

Near the French border, on the left bank of the Garonne, the town of Bossst retains the 12th-century Church of Era Mair de Diu dera Purificacion, a magnificent example of Romanesque architecture featuring three apses with Lombard decoration, one of two doors featuring three arches, carved columns and capitals, a tympanum showing the Pantocrator and the Evangelists. Vilams, perched atop the right bank, also has one of the oldest Romanesque churches, which is now home to the Casa Joanchiquet that has been converted into a museum.

Upstream on the Garonne,

are the hamlets of Betren and Gausac, virtually joined to Vielha. Betren is home to the Church of Sant Estue with a Gothic doorway featuring voussoirs adorned with figures. Gausac preserves the Gothic Church of Sant Martin, characterised by a robust bell tower that served as a watchtower. It is not unique in this respect, as other churches also served as fortresses such as the fortified site surrounding the Church of Santa Maria dArties. Romanesque in style, it retains its basilical layout and a Gothic altarpiece painted by the Vielha master and wall paintings dedicated to the Last Judgement in Late Gothic style. Arties developed around it and now spreads out in a mosaic of slate roofs. Foremost among the old 16th-century mansions are o de Paulet and the solid tower of the home of the Portol family, from which came Gaspar de Portol, the first governor of California. Arties also features the Church of Sant Joan with a Romanesque base that evolved an austere Gothic style. It has been refurbished as a venue for temporary exhibitions.

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In Salard,
special mention should be given to the Church of Sant Andru in Romanesque-Gothic transition style with three naves, three apses and an eight-sided bell tower. The churchs interior houses a magnificent Romanesque Christ, reminiscent of that of the Church of Casarilh downriver, and Late Gothic wall paintings restored in the last century. Upriver lies the neighbouring hamlet of Unha with the Romanesque Church of Santa Eulria, which has a bulb-roofed bell tower. Cattle raising and forestry were the mainstays of the valleys economy, though it also had a long-standing mining tradition with the extraction of iron, cobalt, galena and, above all, zinc and lead. Mina Victria, in the northern part of the municipality of Arres, bears testimony to this, and has recently been restored. Visitors can also see the Fabrica dera Lan (Woollen Mill) in Vielha, which was driven by the waters of the Nere River, and the Grain Mill in Salard.
Salard

Besides eking out a living, the townsfolk called for festivals and dances,
and many traditions are still celebrated today. In chronological order, spring marks the celebration of Magrs or Carnival, followed by the Holy Week procession in Bossst. On 13 May, the Holy Cross Festival takes places in Salard in which crucifixes from the eight villages of the municipality are assembled around the figure of Christ on the Cross. On 23 June, the villages of Les and Arties (see section on festivals) are the scene of the most spectacular celebrations to mark the summer solstice. In addition, each town or village has its own festival. The more modern festivals include the Hsta dAran on 17 June to mark the restoration of the Conselh Generau. Also deeply rooted is the Corsa Aran per sa Lengua, a language race advocating the promotion of Aranese and bringing together runners from the various terons, which culminates in a concert.

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Popular dances in Arrs

Bossst

To replenish your energy Yet there is more to after an active day, Val dAran than simply valleys offers superb varied menu, which towns and villages, work thedescribedcuisinesectionaon cuisine. Further information is in the pertaining to the cuisine in addition to the other facets of Val and festivals dAran is outlined in the book dedicated to the valley in this
Visitors must explore the mountains. A third of the terrain in Val dAran rises above two thousand metres. In the months of snowfall, thousands of skiing enthusiasts take to the slopes of the Baqueira Beret ski resort. However, the options do not end there. Hikers must visit the Artiga de Lin and Uelhs deth Jou, where the gushing springs of the Aneto glacier rise. Montcorbison, a stones throw from Vielha, offers an easy ascent and commands magnificent views. Mentioned in the chapter on Aigestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park are Montardo peak and the Colomrs cirque featuring an extensive lacustrine area. On the slopes closing off the valley to the north, a classic excursion from the Beret plain to the Sancutary of La Mair de Diu de Montgarri can be made on foot or using snowshoes in winter. Hectare upon hectare of skiable slopes are available for cross-country skiing enthusiasts. In summer, the north of the valley is a little-known area with alluring peaks such as Tuc de Maubrme. same collection.

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Unha
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Tuca wood
(By mountain bike)
Set out from Betren square heading towards Vielha. Turn off to the left towards LEsglsia square before crossing the bridge over the Nere River. Continue up the road until you get to the track that follows the river until the 5-kilometre point where you turn off on the Vielha and France road (N-230) opposite the north mouth of the Vielha tunnel. Continue on this road and pass the incinerator; take the forest trail on the right. A little further on, you reach the highest point (1,530 m) and begin the descent to the C-28 road, which you cross to return to Betren.
Level of difficulty: Medium. Starting point: Betren; from Vielha on the C-28 heading for Salard, to the east. Further information: Palau Robert Routes, www.gencat.cat/probert Vielha Tourist Office

Information
Val dAran Tourist Office Ctra. Gausac, 1 25530 Vielha e Mijaran Tel. (+34) 973 640 688 www.torismearan.org Tourist Offices of Les, Salard and Vielha (See pages 130 and 131)

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Vall de Bo World Heritage

The finest moment of Romanesque architecture reached its apogee in Vall de Bo, which features an unusual concentration of churches built during the 10th, 11th and 12th centuries. It retains its bell towers, elegant external decoration and internationally renowned religious paintings. A group of nine churches in Vall de Bo (Assumpci de Cll, Santa Maria de Cardet, Sant Feliu de Barruera, the Church of La Nativitat and the Chapel of Sant Quirc de Durro, Santa Eullia dErill la Vall, Sant Joan de Bo, Santa Maria de Tall and Sant Climent de Tall) were designated World Heritage by UNESCO.
Church of Sant Feliu in Barruera
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Church of La Navitat in Durro

Church of Sant Joan in Bo

Chapel of Sant Quirc in Durro

Church of Santa Maria in Cll

Church of Santa Eullia in Erill la Vall

Hand of God (MNAC), Sant Climent, Tall

Jewels of the Catalan Romanesque

The churches were constructed on the initiative of the lords of Erill, feudal lords documented from 1077 who exerted control over the entire valley. The valleys remoteness proved conducive to preserving a large part of the current set of buildings. Between 1919 and 1923, the Barcelona Museum Board, on assessing the risk of robbery, initiated the transfer of most of the pictorial work. The frescoes were removed and are currently housed in the National Art Museum of Catalonia (MNAC) in Barcelona. The churches of Santa Maria and Sant Climent in Tall were declared HistoricalArtistic Monuments in 1931. Years later the Government of Catalonia declared the entire set of Romanesque churches an Asset of Cultural Interest. An architectural restoration initiative was instigated in 1994, and in 2000 the site was officially designated World Heritage by UNESCO.

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Church of Sant Climent in Tall

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Route through the Vall de Bo

One of the first Romanesque churches in the valley is found in Cll, lying on the outskirts of the village. The small church features a 12th-century Romanesque doorway. A little further up the valley is Cardet, which is home to the Romanesque Church of Santa Maria, with a single nave and a considerably high apse; its interior contains a statue of the Blessed Virgin of Cabanasses. The Church of Sant Feliu lies a bit outside the village of Barruera. It contains a single nave and highly robust bell tower with a square base. Durro is reached via a secondary road. The 12th-century Romanesque Church of La Mare de Du de Durro has a single nave with barrel vaults and a porticoed lateral porch. The bell tower features a square base with Lombard arches; the churchs doorway is formed by archivolts on two sets of columns. A 12th-century Romanesque statute of the Blessed Virgin from the Church of Durro, which was part of a Descent from the Cross, is currently on display at the MNAC. Erill la Vall lies on the right bank of the Noguera de Tor River. Its 12th-century Church of Santa Eullia exemplifies a jewel of Romanesque architecture in Lombard style with a single nave, a central apse and two apsidal chapels in the shape of a cross. It features a porch with semi-circular arcs and a highly stylised bell tower. At the beginning of the 20th century, a set of 12th-century Romanesque wooden carvings, representing the Descent from the Cross, were discovered in the sacristy. Today, the collection is divided between the Vic Episcopal Museum and the National Art Museum of Catalonia (MNAC). However, the churchs interior is also home to a faithful reproduction of the works. A turnoff in the road leads to Bo. The Church of Sant Joan retains its Romanesque bell tower in Lombard style and an apse. The remainder of the building is the product of diverse restoration work. The interior features reproductions of its 11th- and 12th-century wall paintings. Finally, less than a kilometre away, the road leads to Tall. This village comprises two separate centres surrounding two of the most emblematic Romanesque churches in the Pyrenees: Santa Maria and Sant Climent. The Church of Santa Maria constitutes the parish church in Tall. Dating from the 12th century, it dominates the main square. It features three naves separated by columns and crowned with three ap ses and a bell tower with a square base. The interior contains a reproduction of the pictorial works which adorned the church. The Church of Sant Climent stands in the lower end of the village. Dating from the 12th century, it was built at the same time as the Church of Santa Maria. Both churches were consecrated by the Bishop of Roda in December 1123. The Church of Sant Climent also has three naves, separated by columns and three apses adorned with characteristic Lombard arches and mullioned windows, as well as a bell tower which soars to six storeys. The interior features a set of striking polychrome wall paintings, including a reproduction of the famous Pantocrator, or Christ in Majesty, in the central apse.

Church of Santa Maria in Cardet

40

Caldes de Bo

A spa amidst the mountains

A soothing bath could be the means to unwind after imbibing so much culture or taking in Aigestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park. The first thermal baths in Caldes de Bo date as far back as the 18th century. Today, the town boasts two hotel establishments, a spa resort, a beauty salon and function rooms.

41

The Pantocrator of Sant Climent in Tall

42

From Barruera to Durro

From Barruera, take the road heading for Durro and cross the bridge over the Noguera de Tor River; a little further on, the signposted path begins. In Durro, take the cobbled path towards the church and continue through the town until you arrive, in the upper part of the town, at a path leading to the Chapel of Sant Quirc de Durro. 7.5 km, 2 h 15 min
Level of difficulty: Low, 360 m difference in elevation. Starting point: Barruera; from El Pont de Suert on the N-230, and then the L-500. Further information: Tourist Offices of El Pont de Suert and Vall de Bo

Information
Romanesque Centre of Vall de Bo Cam del Batall, 5 25528 Erill la Vall Tel. (+34) 973 696 715 www.centreromanic.com National Art Museum of Catalonia (MNAC) Palau Nacional, Parc de Montjuc 08038 Barcelona Tel. (+34) 936 220 376 www.mnac.cat Vic Episcopal Museum Pl. Bisbe Oliva, 3 08500 Vic Tel. (+34) 938 869 360 www.museuepiscopalvic.com Vall de Bo Tourist Board www.vallboi.com Tourist Offices of El Pont de Suert and Vall de Bo (See pages 130 and 131)

Fragment of the altar frontispiece of Sant Pere de Bo (circa 1260), MNAC

43

Contrasting valleys Bustling riverbanks

The rivers descending from the pinnacles of the Pyrenees have carved out dozens of valleys, each one different than the next. Seven have been selected which feature wide-ranging settlements and attractions, in order of the suns path from east to west. It provides only a taste of the extensive network of valleys.
Bridge over the Llierca River
45

Nria rack railway

Nria Sanctuary

Vall de Sant Aniol

Garrotxa means tangled, wild and difficult terrain, a name which is understood once visitors set foot inside the valleys that enclose the county to the north. Upstream on the Llierca River lies a single-arch medieval bridge hanging over a deep gorge. A small distance above the small hamlet of Sadernes, the valley narrows between calcareous walls. Vall de Sant Aniol flows through the Gitarriu mountains and Plansesserres hill, and the river stagnates in calm crystalline pools. Holm oak, boxwood, chestnut and oak trees line the path. On the left bank the path continues to Bassegoda hill; on the right bank, another path climbs to the village of Taleix, now deserted. Following the river takes you to the Sanctuary of Sant Aniol dAguja, in a magnificent location, where the writer Mari Vayreda set the beginning of his novel La punyalada. Further up lies the Brull waterfall.

Vall de Nria
The Nria rack railway departs from the villages of Ribes de Freser and Queralbs, where a visit to the Romanesque church is a must. The train leaves ash and hazelnut trees in its wake; oak groves blanket the valley floors and black pine trees cast their shadow on the valley slopes. Climbing the valley, at the edge of precipices, the rack railway ends at the shores of a lake. At the same time, it reaches the site of the Nria Sanctuary with a chapel that is home to a 12th-century Romanesque carving of the Blessed Virgin. The sanctuary also has a restaurant, gift shops and a hotel. Further upwards is a hostel; we are now at two thousand metres above sea level. The mountains framing Vall de Nria soar to three thousand metres. In addition to a small ski resort and horseback riding in summer, the valley offers a whole host of excursions such as the ascent of Puigmal or the peaks of Noufonts, Fossa del Gegant and Infern, and hikes to the Ulldeter and Caran gorges.

46

Llvia

Cerdanya
Unlike the rest of the valleys in the Pyrenees which are oriented towards the north or south, Vall de la Cerdanya extends from east to west, between the high mountains of the Pyrenees and Moixer and Cad. This is because Cerdanya is the product of a trough fault. From the pre-Roman settlement, names such as Bor, Urs, Alp and Das remain. A considerable number of Romanesque churches still stand from the Middle Ages such as Sant Pere dOlopte, Santa Ceclia de Bolvir and the majestic Church of Santa Maria de Tall, as well as the old wall of Bellver. However, the Treaty of the Pyrenees partitioned the valley, as illustrated by the town of Llvia, which is completely surrounded by French territory. At the heart of Cerdanya lies the chief town of Puigcerd, which is perched atop a hill commanding stunning views of the region. At the beginning of the last century, tourists were attracted by the clean air and coolness in summer. Today, in winter, it boasts a large ski resort which combines La Masella and La Molina, and, in summer, a thousand hikes amidst the pine and fir trees of Cad-Moixer Natural Park or towards the Pera or Malniu lakes and the peaks which form a boundary with Andorra.

47

Vall dAigua dOra

At the eastern end of Solsons county, the Aigua dOra River flows from the town of Navs through a long valley. In addition to solid traditional farmhouses, the valley is home to an eco-museum where visitors can see the workings of an old sawmill and a water-driven mill. The valley is set against the Busa mountains rising on a plateau surrounded by imposing cliffs. Below, where the river narrows, stands the magnificent Romanesque Church of Sant Pere de Graudescales. Part of a short-lived monastery, the 12th-century church has a floor plan in the shape of a Latin cross, a dome over the transept crossing and three apses.

Vall de Cards
Road access is somewhat difficult where the waters of the Noguera de Cards flow. Further up, the valley opens out and the village of Ribera de Cards comes into view, offering accommodation in small hotel establishments and adventure sports. It also contains a Romanesque bell tower adjoining the church, narrow streets and slate walls and roofs. Framed by the peaks found within Alt Pirineu Natural Park, the valley takes advantage of the few plains available to establish settlements: Surri, Ans, Estaon (built on a spur), Ginestarre (featuring a small Romanesque church which dominates the entrance to the hamlet), Aineto (built on a cliff), and Tavascan. Overhead, the mountains reign supreme.

Framed by the peaks found within Alt Pirineu Natural Park, the valley takes advantage of the few plains available to establish settlements.
Sant Pere de Graudescales

48

Church of Santa Maria in Ribera de Cards

Valls dneu
At the crown of Pallars Sobir, the neu valleys take in four municipalities which include twenty-four towns and villages. Surrounded by Alt Pirineu Natural Park and Aigestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park, its natural interest is plain to see. At the same time, the valley is home to a wealth of Romanesque treasures such as the Church of Sant Joan dIsil and the Church of Santa Maria dneu in Escalarre, the site in Son de Pi, the Benedictine Monastery of Sant Pere del Burgal in Escal and the bridges in Espot and Esterri dneu, not to mention the Eco-museum of Valls dneu (see further details in the chapter on mountain life). Also worth visiting is the Territori i Paisatge Foundation in Planes de Son, which fosters an appreciation of nature and the environment.

Vall Fosca
Closed in by the mountains, the sun sets very early here. The head of the valley flanks Aigestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park. The valley extends to the south following the course of the Flamisell River. Cabdella, the final village, retains the Romanesque Church of Sant Vicen, which commands magnificent views. Below, visitors can see the Hydroelectric Museum in the Cabdella power plant. Further south, the village of Espui is also home to a Romanesque church dedicated to Sant Juli, and the Chapel of Sant Mart stands alongside La Torre de Cabdella. The village of Estavill retains the medieval layout of a fortified villa and a number of covered streets.

49

Olopte
50

Climb to the summit of Perafita and Monturull from the Pera lakes
From Pollineres, ascend to the first lake; leaving Lower Pera Lake to the left, you reach a small bridge crossing the river. Take the path that ascends along the right bank of the river, and after 200 metres, you reach Upper Pera Lake. Follow the crest to the left of Monturull and to the summit itself. Descend to Claror pass and continue along the ridge to Perafita or Tossal de la Truita. Descend the ridge to Perafit and Sant Vicen pass. Flanking Sirvent peak, the path descends leading to the Estanys de la Pera mountain refuge and towards Pollineres.
Level of difficulty: Medium; 4-5 h. Starting point: Les Pollineres. In Martinet de Cerdanya, take the LV4036 road towards Lles. Before you get to Lles, take the turnoff on the left that leads to Arnser. From there, a paved track climbs up as far as the cross-country ski slopes. Then follow the 12-kilometre unpaved track to Pollineres (2,040 m), where you should leave the car. Further information: Refugi dels Estanys de la Pera, Lles de Cerdanya Tel. (+34) 972 140 559 and (+34) 934 120 777 Cerdanya Tourist Offices
For high mountain routes, good maps and route diagrams are necessary.

Information
Alta Garrotxa Consortium (Vall de Sant Aniol) Rectoria de Sadernes Tel. (+34) 972 287 882 www.altagarrotxa.org Vall de Nria Tel. (+34) 972 732 020 www.valldenuria.cat Cerdanya Tourist Portal www.cerdanya.cat Navs Town Hall (Vall dAigua dOra) Tel. (+34) 973 482 553 naves.ddl.net Valls dneu Cultural Council Tel. (+34) 973 626 316 www.aneu.org Vall Fosca Municipal Tourist Board Tel. (+34) 973 663 001 www.vallfosca.cat Tourist Offices of Esterri dneu, La Torre de Cabdella, Puigcerd, Ribera de Cards, Ribes de Freser and Solsona (See pages 130 and 131)

51

La Seu dUrgell Crossroads of the Pyrenees

Boasting a strategic location at the heart of the Catalan Pyrenees, the chief town of Alt Urgell is set between the mountains of Andorra and the final spurs of the Cad mountains, dominating the alluvial plain deposited by the Segre and Valira Rivers. It is an ancient crossroads between Pallars Sobir, Andorra and Cerdanya and has experienced the history of the land at first hand.
Cloister of the cathedral
53

The cathedral
The original city, otherwise known as Orgellia, dominated the hill of the current neighbourhood of Castellciutat. It served as an Episcopal See, which was plundered by Muslim invaders. It was later moved to the plain where a cathedral was constructed and consecrated in the 9th century. The large Romanesque Cathedral of Santa Maria dUrgell replaced the church, characterised by a refined Lombard architecture built in the 12th century. It contains one of the finest examples of a Catalan Romanesque cloister featuring columns crowned with granite capitals of Roussillonais influence and adorned with carved figures from medieval mythology. The Romanesque Church of Sant Miquel is adjoined to the cloister, the only one to have survived among the group of episcopal churches promoted by Saint Armengol at the beginning of the 11th century.
Romanesque cathedral of Santa Maria dUrgell

54

Silver urn of Saint Armengol (1755)

Beatus of Libana

The cathedral contains one of the finest examples of a Catalan Romanesque cloister featuring columns crowned with granite capitals of Roussillonais influence and adorned with carved figures from medieval mythology.

Diocesan Museum of Urgell

Adjacent to the cathedral, the museum houses one of the finest collections of medieval art in Catalonia. Among the valuable artworks from the Diocese of Urgell is a considerable collection of Romanesque Blessed Virgin statues. However, the most renowned works on display include the legendary Beatus of Libana, a 10th-century illuminated manuscript; the Gothic altarpiece of Abella de la Conca by Pere Serra (1364) and the silver urn of Saint Armengol by the Baroque silversmith Pere Lleopart (1755).

55

Old town centre

Medieval quarter
In close proximity to the cathedral are two arcaded streets. One is Carrer dels Canonges, the main axis of the ancient city lined with noteworthy buildings such as Cal Botx, Cal Roger and Ca lArmenter, which is adorned with Gothic windows and ornamental beams. The other arcaded street, Carrer Major, contains the Bladeria (the scales where the townsfolk came to weigh their wheat for sale) as well as a number of stately buildings. The streets Carrer de Capdevila and Carrer de les Eres are part of the citys extension in the 13th century.

Cultural city
Over the course of the year, events are held such as the Joan Brudieu International Music Festival in July and August, performances of Retaule de Sant Ermengol in the first fortnight in August, and the Saint Armengol Fair on the third Sunday of October with four themed spaces: the Pyrenees Farmhouse Cheese Fair, the Pyrenees Tourist Products and Nordic Skiing Fair, the Farmhouse Produce Fair and the Handicrafts Fair on Carrer dels Canonges, designated for craftspeople from the Pyrenees. Throughout the year the Gothic Church of Sant Domnec, currently an exhibition hall, organises numerous exhibitions, conferences and concerts.

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Weekly market

Canoeing in Segre Olympic Park

Markets
The town had a weekly market from 1029 and a renowned trade fair from 1048. Today, the streets of the historic quarter play host to a market with a multitude of stalls on Tuesdays and Saturdays. Products that are handmade and typical of the Pyrenees are available in the towns stores, such as the best cheeses and butter in the area, cold meats, honey, mushroom preserves, meat and fresh garden produce.

Segre Olympic Park

These unique sports facilities were built for the 1992 Olympic Games and comprise a network of whitewaters and still waters, with a system of mechanical lifts for canoeing, rafting and hydrospeed.

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Centre of La Seu dUrgell

58

From La Seu to Als and Les Peces

(By mountain bike)
Set out from the Segre Park, follow the right bank of the river and cross via the Als footbridge. Take the road heading towards Als; the path begins in the square leading to Les Peces and Banat. On the highest point stands the Romanesque Church of Santa Maria de les Peces. To return, descend to Als and, without crossing the Segre River, follow its left bank. Then cross the Segre River at La Seu footbridge to get to the town. 14.6 km.
Level of difficulty: Medium. Starting point: Segre Olympic Park in La Seu dUrgell. Further information: La Seu-Alt Urgell Mountain Bike Centre and Segre Olympic Park www.parcolimpic.com/btt

Information
Diocesan Museum of Urgell Pl. Deganat 25700 La Seu dUrgell Tel. (+34) 973 353 242 www.museudiocesaurgell.org Segre Olympic Park Tel. (+34) 973 360 092 www.parcolimpic.com La Seu dUrgell Tourist Office www.turismeseu.com Tourist Offices of La Seu dUrgell (See page 130, 131)

Capital of the cloister of the cathedral

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60

Olot Volcanic town

When we speak of explosive craters, earthquakes, tongues of fire and volcanic flows, the gateway to hell is bound to spring to mind rather than the landscape of the Garrotxa region or its chief town of Olot. All in all, four volcanoes stand sentry on the fringes of Olot: Bisaroques, Montolivet, Garrinada and Montsacopa. The most emblematic is Montsacopa, which towers above the town and features the Chapel of Sant Francesc surrounding its crater.
Santa Pau
61

There is no need to fret: the volcano has been dormant for over 11,000 years
and five centuries have passed since the last two devastating earthquakes. Virtually no wall was left standing, which the inhabitants of Olot turned to their advantage to change the citys location, thereby moving away from the terrain under the jurisdiction of the Monastery of Ripoll. The city was thus rebuilt at the foot of Montsacopa. On descending the volcano, visitors should head towards the Passeig den Blay (popularly known as El Firal), which plays host to the market every Monday. The next stop is Casa Sol Morales, the citys most noteworthy example of Modernista (Catalan Art Nouveau) architecture, restored by Llus Domnech i Montaner and with caryatids carved by Eusebi Arnau. Visitors should then explore the Church of Sant Esteve, solid with a Baroque faade and altarpieces, and a painting by El Greco at the Parish Museum. A stones throw away is Can Trincheria, which has been turned into a museum.

The Regional Museum is housed in the former hospice

In addition to temporary exhibitions, it outlines the history of the county and displays works by a large number of artists who have passed through the town. Special mention should be given to the Olot Art School founded by the brothers Joaquim and Mari Vayreda together with Josep Berga, pioneers in the act of painting outdoors in Catalonia. In addition to the sculptures by Miquel Blay and Josep Clar, the work The Charge by Ramon Casas and the cigarillos Paris poster series are noteworthy.

Can Trincheria

The washerwomen, Joaquim and Mari Vayreda (MCG)

House of the Volcanoes

62

Church of Sant Esteve

Torre Malagrida

Santa Margarida volcano

63

Crossing the Fluvi River brings visitors to the landscaped Parc Nou (New Park),
with a pedunculate oak grove which would have occupied the Olot plain had it not been cleared. The wood is carpeted with linden, ash, elm, cherry and maple trees, and an undergrowth of holly, hazelnut, boxwood and hawthorn trees. The park is also home to the Volcano Museum, which occupies the Torre Castanys building. Visitors can gain an insight into the nature, causes and effects of volcanic and seismic phenomena and even feel the tremor of an earthquake thanks to a simulator. The museum also devotes a space to the main ecosystems in Garrotxa, which, needless to say, should be seen at first hand. A stones throw away, for instance, is the Moixina (wood with marshes) and a little further away, the beech wood Fageda den Jord, which inspired Joan Maragall to pen a poem, as well as the Croscat volcano and Santa Margarida volcano. Alternatively, visitors can hop on their bicycles and take the Carrilet Route, a greenway over railway tracks that leads to Girona.

In the centre of Olot,

visitors should also explore the streets encircling the main square and the Carmelite cloisters, a Renaissance work which is now home to the Olot Art School. South of Plaa de Josep Clar lies Passeig de Barcelona, shaded by vast plantain trees. There begins the Eixample Malagrida, a garden city initiative, courtesy of a Catalan emigrant who made his fortune from tobacco sales in Argentina. His stately home, Torre Malagrida, was also built there, and has since been converted into a youth hostel.

The Fageda den Jord beech wood

64

Casa Sol-Morales. Olot Montsacopa volcano

Parc Nou is carpeted with linden, ash, elm, cherry and maple trees, and an undergrowth of holly, hazelnut, boxwood and hawthorn trees.

Main Square

Casa Escubs

Casa Gaiet Vila

65

Centre of Olot
66

From Olot to Fageda den Jord beech wood

Set out from Parc Nou (New Park) via the south exit. At La Moixina (wood with marshes) is the beginning of route 9; on the left hand side is the Camp den Broc, a restored wetland. The road leads to El Triai where, crossing a field, it joins the branch that goes from Pont de les Mres bridge and continues towards the Fageda den Jord beech wood. Before you go in, the path forks. To the right, the path traverses the wood; it passes Can Jord, returns to the beech wood and leads to Can Xel where you get to the badlands of the Croscat volcano and Santa Margarida volcano.
Level of difficulty: Medium. Starting point: Parc Nou in Olot. Further information: Volcano Museum Olot Tourist Office Garrotxa Tourist Office

Information
Garrotxa Regional Museum Hospici, 8 17800 Olot Tel. (+34) 972 279 130 museucomarcal@olot.org Institute of Culture of the City of Olot Casa Museu Can Trincheria Sant Esteve, 29 17800 Olot Tel. (+34) 972 272 777 www.olot.cat/cultura Volcano Museum Parc Nou, av. Santa Coloma, 43 17800 Olot Tel. (+34) 972 266 202 museuvolcans@olot.cat Garrotxa Tourist Office Av. Onze de Setembre, 22, 2n 17800 Olot Tel. (+34) 972 271 600 www.turismegarrotxa.com Tourist Offices of Olot (See pages 130 and 131)

Detail of a balcony at Casa Sol-Morales

67

Solsona Stone roots

Solsonas distinctive personality is manifested in a rich heritage that conveys strength due to centuries of laying stone over deeply embedded foundations. Its arcaded streets, Gothic, Renaissance and Neoclassical mansions and graceful fountains call for a leisurely visit. However, the tranquil town can also swing into bustling exuberance with trabucaires (men in traditional costume firing salvoes from blunderbusses in the air), giants and beasts in the myriad festivals held throughout the year. Solsona and the Solsons region also hold a rich legacy from Baroque times, of which the Miracle shrine and the altarpiece of the Chapel of Mare de Du dels Colls in Sant Lloren de Morunys are especially prominent.
Centre of Solsona
69

Diocesan and Regional Museum and cathedral

Diocesan and Regional Museum

It houses the Episcopal Palace, an emblematic Neoclassical building. Within its walls lies a remarkable collection beginning with prehistoric, Iberian and Roman utensils. However, the museums main collection centres on medieval times. Of particular note are the pre-Romanesque frescoes of the Church of Sant Quirze de Pedret, a large number of Blessed Virgin statues, the sides of the altar of Sags and the Gothic Last Supper by Jaume Ferrer I. It also includes a large selection of liturgical objects from later periods.

The old city

A stroll through the cobbled streets should include the arcaded main square, where a market is held on Fridays. On Carrer del Castell lies the Renaissance-style town hall and bell tower. A stones throw way is the 15th-century fountain in Plaa de Sant Joan. South of Carrer del Castell is Carrer de Llobera, another gateway to the city, lined with several stately homes and the Knife and Cutting Tools Museum. The museum describes the citys industrial tradition which competed with cities renowned for their ironwork, such as Olot and Toledo.

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Bridged gateway
Much of the 11th-century ramparts surrounding Solsona have survived to the present day. This gateway, dating from the end of the 18th century, still constitutes the main entrance to the heart of the old quarter. Above, the three Romanesque apses of the cathedral can be seen.

The cathedral
T he current Gothic cathedral preser ves the three Romanesque apses and bell tower of the former cathedral. Its interior contains a Baroque altarpiece as well as a striking 12th-century stone sculpture of the Mare de Du del Claustre, the patron saint of the city.

The current Gothic cathedral preserves the three Romanesque apses and bell tower of the former cathedral. Its interior contains a Baroque altarpiece as well as the Mare de Du del Claustre, the patron saint of the city.
15th-century fountain in Plaa de Sant Joan Carrer del Castell

71

Diocesan and Regional Museum in Solsona

72

Altarpiece of the Chapel of Mare de Du dels Colls in Sant Lloren de Morunys

Altarpiece of the Miracle shrine in Riner

Olius
Six kilometres east of Solsona stands the Romanesque Church of Sant Esteve. It is worth exploring the interior to see the intimate Romanesque crypt featuring six slender columns supporting a vault clad with pumice stone. On the other side of the road lies the Gaud-influenced cemetery designed by Bernad Martorell in 1916, which blends in with the surroundings.

Miracle shrine
Twelve kilometres south of Solsona, the Miracle shrine comprises various austere buildings, in stark contrast with the grandiose Baroque altarpiece of the church. Carles Morat spent ten years sculpting the altarpiece, and Antoni Bordons spent ten years gilding it. Reminiscent of an opera, it features gesticulating saints and angels, explosions of gold, scrolls and spiralling clouds.

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Centre of Solsona
74

Solsona and its environs

(On foot and by car)
Enter Solsona by foot via the El Pont bridge. On the left hand side stands the cathedral, the adjacent Episcopal Palace and the Diocesan and Regional Museum. Continue to the main square and Carrer del Castell. To the right hand side of the town hall lies a passage leading to Plaa de Sant Joan. Return to Carrer del Castell and you come upon the Knife and Cutting Tools Museum. Exit from the El Pont bridge and take the car. On the Manresa road (C-55) and the C-26, you get to the Olius crossroads. Go back on the C-26 and you link up with the C-149; via the LV-3005 and LV-3002, you get to the Miracle shrine, 12 kilometres from Solsona.
Level of difficulty: Low. Starting point: Car park opposite the El Pont bridge. Further information: Solsona Tourist Office

Information
Diocesan and Regional Museum Palau Episcopal Pl. Palau, 1 - 25280 Solsona Tel. (+34) 973 482 101 museu.bisbatsolsona.cat Knife and Cutting Tools Museum Trav. St. Josep, 9 25280 Solsona Tel. (+34) 973 480 050 www.ajsolsona.cat Olius Town Hall Tel. (+34) 973 480 961 olius.ddl.net Miracle shrine 25287 El Miracle Tel. (+34) 973 480 002 www.santuarielmiracle.com Tourist Office of Solsona (See pages 130 and 131)

Crypt of Sant Esteve in Olius

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76

Mountain towns
Located in the very heart of the mountains, the small cities and towns of the Pyrenees are situated in strategic places that have become historic crossroads and centres linking the mountains to the plains. This is the case with Ripoll, Puigcerd and Berga, not to mention Tremp, Sort and El Pont de Suert. We are speaking here of historic cities with a splendid past which still constitute commercial centres and markets where people from the nearby mountains come to gather. These are cities and towns with character.
Romanesque porch in Ripoll
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Puigcerd Ripoll
The valley determined the location of the chief town of Ripolls at the point where the Ter and Freser rivers meet. At the very heart of the town lies the monasterys church, founded by Count Wilfred the Hairy at the end of the 9th century. The Counts most representative symbol, a flag with four bars, waves from the bell tower. For centuries, the monastery was the most important in Catalonia, until it was plundered and burned in 1835; visitors must see the unique Romanesque doorway. The town grew around it and was soon known for its iron and steel industry, the result of a procedure known as farga catalana (Catalan forging). The Ethnology Museum contains a fine selection of weapons manufactured there. The chief town of Cerdanya is located at the summit of the same peak that gives it its name and dominates the surrounding plain as one of the most spectacular vantage points in Catalonia. Puigcerd has always been an important commercial and service centre. The town houses Gothic frescoes in the Convent of Sant Domnec as well as monuments like the Gothic bridge of Sant Mart, the hospital and Can Deulofeu. Yet what really sticks out in Puigcerd is the setting surrounding its large lake: a great 14th-century irrigation basin around which were built spacious summer villas that give it a regal look. We are speaking here of the beginning of the 20th century, when the middle classes of Barcelona fell in love with the cool and invigorating climate of Cerdanya.

Ripoll

Lake in Puigcerd

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Queralt Sanctuary

Berga
This town is located at the foot of the pre-Pyrenees mountains, in a strategic spot that makes it a bridge between mountain and plain. A few bits and sporadic stretches are what remain of the old town walls and the old castle, as well as the old gateway on Plaa de Santa Magdalena. Prominent among its architectural heritage is the Romanesque Chapel of Sant Pere de Madrona, the Church of Sant Joan featuring Gothic elements and remnants of the Jewish Call. There is also a theatre and casino in Modernista (Catalan Art Nouveau) style. The town is a magnificent place for daytrips: the Queralt Sanctuary, the bridge, the pre-Romanesque Church of Sant Quirze de Pedret and the Pyrenean landscape of Rasos de Peguera are representative examples of the array of strolls that can be enjoyed from Berga. Any mention of the town must include reference to La Patum, a popular festival declared a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO.

Sort
The chief town of Pallars Sobir is located on the right bank of the Noguera Pallaresa River, just at the foot of its medieval castle. The old part of the town conserves the great round towers, the Gothic faade and the walls of the castle, the inside of which has been remodelled and serves as an allpurpose space for exhibitions and other activities. Sort is also an important place for daytrips and is surrounded by a group of small towns in Vall dssua that have loads of personality, such as Altron, Sorre and Llessui. Whitewater canoeing is practiced in the rapids of the Noguera Pallaresa River, and Sort is a pioneering centre for such activities.

Berga

Sort

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Tremp
Three of the original six defence towers on the ramparts are still standing. In addition to the Hospital dels Pobres and the Church of Mare de Du de Valldeflors, Tremp also features the Sant Jaume bridge of Romanesque origin. However, the limits of the chief town in Pallars Juss are much larger, the largest in Catalonia, and include La Terreta, home to oak groves, beech woods, yew groves and several hiking trails.

El Pont de Suert
The chief town in Alta Ribagora is situated on the banks of the Noguera Ribagorana, where the valleys of Barravs, Bo, Castanesa and Viu meet. Of note in the old quarter are the main square, Plaa del Mercadel, the old church and the Abbatial Palace. Among the buildings, the most noteworthy is the new church, dating from 1955.

Basilica in Tremp

The new church in El Pont de Suert

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Iron Route Ripoll Sant Joan de les Abadesses

(By bicycle)
Setting out from Passeig de Sant Joan in Ripoll and taking the C-26 road to Camprodon, you reach the cycling path which leads to the Toralles station in Sant Joan de les Abadesses (km 12); here you should visit the monastery, the museum, the Church of Sant Joanipol and the medieval bridge. To return, retrace your path. 24 km, 1 h 30 min
Level of difficulty: Low, 120 m difference in elevation. Starting point: Ripoll. Further information: Palau Robert Routes www.gencat.catprobert

Information
Ripoll Ethnology Museum (Closed for remodelling work; temporary exhibitions) Pl. Ajuntament, 3 - 17500 Ripoll Tel. (+34) 972 703 144 www.museuderipoll.org Tourist Offices of Berga, El Pont de Suert, Puigcerd, Ripoll, Sort and Tremp (See pages 130 and 131)

Sant Joan de les Abadesses

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Medieval essence
Catalonia developed with the Pyrenees as its spine. The role played by these mountains as a refuge in the Middle Ages is manifest in the wealth of vestiges bequeathed by this period that have survived to the present day. Medieval art is palpable far and wide: from Romanesque churches and monasteries to civic architecture and small chapels nestled in the most inaccessible settings.
Sant Pere de Rodes
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Sant Pere de Rodes

Set in a magnificent location overlooking Port de la Selva, legend has it that the reliquaries of Saint Peter and other saints were placed there. The current church almost certainly dates to the 11th century, though it features a number of pre-Romanesque elements. The three soaring naves are separated by pillars and columns standing on high bases with Corinthian capitals featuring zoomorphic and polygonal heads with geometric motifs. The 27-metre bell tower is Lombard in style. A path leads to the remains of Sant Salvador castle, where, at the end of the ridge, it commands panoramic views.

Sant Quirze de Colera

At the foot of the Albera mountains, this small Benedictine abbey was restored around 1123. It is built of stones superimposed in the form of a fish bone. The monastery features three naves and three Lombard-type apses, the remains of a former church, the cloister and other fortifications. Nearby is the 12th-century Church of Santa Maria de Colera, a small edifice with a nave and apse.

Sant Quirze de Colera

The Santssim Misteri in Sant Joan de les Abadesses

Monastery of Sant Joan de les Abadesses

Founded in the 9th century by Count Wilfred the Hairy, it contains a magnificent collection of 13th-century sculptures known as the Santssim Misteri, depicting the Descent from the Cross. Other interesting features include the Gothic Saint Augustine and White Virgin altarpieces, as well as the Gothic sepulchre of Blessed Mir; the Gothic cloister with the Romanesque window on one of the chapter room walls; the Baroque Chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows and a beautiful contemporary sculpture of the Piety.

Monastery of Santa Maria de Ripoll

Originally founded in Visigothic times, it was restored by Count Wilfred the Hairy at the end of the 9th century. Under his aegis, the monastery grew in affluence until it had one of the most important monastic libraries of the time. From the 10th century, Bishop Oliba instigated the Romanesque style of the edifice. Santa Maria de Ripoll has the finest sculpted Romanesque work in Catalonia in its 12th-century great door. The remains of Count Wilfred were laid to rest in the pantheon of counts.

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Sant Serni de Tavernoles

Sant Jaume de Frontany

Santa Maria de Gerri de la Sal

Sant Jaume de Frontany

Once an Augustine canonry, it constitutes a fine example of 11th-century Lombard Romanesque architecture, featuring a floor plan in the shape of a Latin cross, three apses and an austere faade. Inside, the majestic twelve-sided dome resting on squinches is unique in Catalonia and was used as a model for the restoration of the Monastery of Ripoll.

Sant Serni de Tavrnoles

This abbey was founded in the early 9th century and came to have dominions from Bergued to Andorra, from Cerdanya to Isona and Pallars, as well as in Aragon and Castile. The abbeys church was consecrated in 1040 and only the chevet has remained intact. The cloister capitals and antependium are on display at the National Art Museum of Catalonia (MNAC). Some of the records, particularly the abbeys cartulary, have survived and are housed in La Seu dUrgell.

Santa Maria de Gerri

This former abbey lies in proximity to the Noguera Pallaresa River. The characteristic stamp of this building is its faade crowned with a three-storey bell tower. The building with three naves is more spacious than it seems from the outside.

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Abella de la Conca

Small churches
Myriad jewels of religious architecture are scattered throughout the Pyrenees. Such is the case of the Church of Sant Cristfor de Beget (Ripolls), which contains a two-metre wooden carving featuring Christ dressed in a long-sleeved tunic. Near Cercs (Bergued) stands the Church of Sant Quirze de Pedret, built between the 9th and 10th centuries with Romanesque elements and important 10thand 12th-century mural paintings. The Church of Santa Maria de Tall (Cerdanya) is a large building with peculiar exterior buttresses, which are unusual in Catalan Romanesque architecture, and anthropomorphic graves outside. The Church of Sant Esteve dAbella de la Conca (Pallars Juss) has dominated the upper end of the town since the 11th century; the remains of 12th- to 13th-century mural paintings are found inside. Of note in this church is the Gothic altarpiece which depicts scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary, today housed in the Diocesan Museum of Urgell. The south faade of the Church of Sant Joan dIsil (Pallars Sobir), built in the vicinity of the Noguera Pallaresa River, is extraordinarily decorated with arcades and human and zoomorphic motifs. Two low reliefs depict Adam and Eve before and after the Fall.

Civic architecture
In the realm of civic architecture, mention should be given to a number of bridges. The Pont Vell (Old Bridge) in Besal is the gateway to arcaded streets, Romanesque and Gothic houses and the towns unique Jewish baths. In Sant Joan de les Abadesses stands another Pont Vell, Gothic in style, the base of which dates back to 1138 when construction of the Romanesque bridge was completed. Damaged by the earthquake in 1428, it was rebuilt in Gothic style with a slender arcade, making it the longest-spanning Gothic bridge on the Iberian Peninsula. The 13th-century Pont Nou (New Bridge) over the Ter River in the heart of the town of Camprodon has a single large arch built with irregular ashlar. To the east stands the Cerdanya gate, one of the entrances to the town when there were ramparts. Other examples of civic medieval architecture include castles, noteworthy among which is Mur castle, a compact building with a tower which once belonged to the counts of Pallars. The fortress stands in close proximity to the Church of Santa Maria on the same esplanade as the castle, dominating the entire Tremp basin.

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Monasteries by the sea

(By car)
Set out from Figueres on the N-260 heading for Llan, continue on the GI-603 and GIV-6032 towards Vilamaniscle, where you take the track leading to the Monastery of Sant Quirze de Colera. Go back down to Garriguella and take the GI-610 and the GIP-6041 to the Monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes; then you can continue to the Sant Salvador castle. From Sant Pere de Rodes descend to Port de la Selva or Llan, where you can round off the day with a nice meal by the sea. 50 km
Level of difficulty: Low. Starting point: Figueres. Further information: Alt Empord Regional Council, turisme.altemporda.org Figueres, Llan and Port de la Selva Tourist Offices

Information
Monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes Ctra. Monestir 17489 el Port de la Selva Tel. (+34) 972 387 559 Rabs dEmpord Town Hall (Monastery of Sant Quirze de Colera) Tel. (+34) 972 563 082 rabos@ddgi.cat Monastery of Santa Maria de Ripoll Pl. Abat Oliba 17500 Ripoll Tel. (+34) 972 702 351 www.ajripoll.cat Sant Jaume de Frontany Town Hall Tel. (+34) 938 239 194 www.santjaumedefrontanya.net Valls de Valira Town Hall (Church of Sant Serni de Tavrnoles) Tel. (+34) 973 350 458 vallsvalira.ddl.net Baix Pallars Town Hall (Church of Santa Maria de Gerri) Tel. (+34) 973 662 040 baixpallars.ddl.net Tourist Offices of Port de la Selva, Sant Joan de les Abadesses, Ripoll, Berga, La Seu dUrgell, Besal, Camprodon, Sort, Tremp, Isona, Garrigs, Figueres, Llan, Portbou and Puigcerd (See pages 130 and 131)

Castle in Mur
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Counts of the Pyrenees Route

The Counts of the Pyrenees Route beckons visitors to journey back to the beginnings of Catalonia. This route combines the splendour of the Pyrenees with the austere beauty of Romanesque churches and monasteries, where the faint reverberations of the footsteps of great historic figures such as Bishop Oliba and Count Wilfred the Hairy can still be felt.
Church of the Monastery in Ripoll
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From Empord to Ribagora,

against a backdrop of high mountains, the route traverses magnificent landscapes, the birthplace of historic figures and the scene of historic deeds, traditions, myths and legends. This is a natural and populated environment sprinkled with monasteries, churches and castles that perpetuate the memory of that era, which also marked the beginnings of Europe, feudalism, the Crusades and Romanesque art. In the Counts of the Pyrenees Route, tourist attractions cater for all needs, from small hotel establishments to country houses and a wide range of campsites across the region covered by this itinerary. The flavours characterising Catalan mountain cuisine can be savoured far and wide. Whats more, a broad spectrum of quality products, from dry-cured sausages (llonganissa and xols, from Vic and Pallars respectively) to all kinds of farmhouses cheeses, can be purchased. Behind every curve on this route, which takes in secondary roads, lie picturesque landscapes and layer upon layer of history. Visitors can peel back these layers to unravel the history of Catalonia, from its beginnings through the legacy bequeathed by the Romans and Visigoths to the assertion of its own identity between the 9th and 12th centuries. The latter found expression in its architectural style, Romanesque art, the Catalan language and the name of the land: Catalonia. The route takes in the length and breath of the eleven former earldoms, which visitors can explore either in one fell swoop or little by little, county by county. From east to west, the route affords visitors the opportunity to peruse a careful selection of medieval sites, monuments and museums that immerse visitors in the atmosphere of Old Catalonia and the times of Count Wilfred the Hairy, Bishop Oliba, Sir Arnau Mir de Tost, Countess Ermensinde and Count Bernat Tallaferro. Chronologically speaking, the Counts of the Pyrenees Route covers the little-known period from the 9th century, when Count Wilfred the Hairy laid the foundations for the independence of the Catalan earldoms, to the 15th century, when King Martin the Humane died without surviving descendants, thereby putting an end to the House of Barcelona which had governed Catalonia for more than five hundred years. What follows is a brief county-by-county description of what visitors shall come upon in the course of the Counts of the Pyrenees Route.

Bridge over the Fluvi River in Besal

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Castellfollit de la Roca

Countship of Berga: In the shadow of Pedraforca

Beneath the majestic peaks of Pedraforca, the land of Bergued was the meeting place for fascinating historic figures such as the Baron of Pins and the troubadour Guillem de Bergued from the 10th to 14th centuries. The region also bears the indelible stamp of the Cathars. In these exceptional natural surroundings, small towns and hamlets such as Gsol, Saldes and Maaners are interspersed with old Romanesque edifices such as the churches of Sant Lloren prop Bag, Santa Maria de Lillet, Sant Vicen de Rus, Sant Jaume de Frontany, Sant Sadurn de Rotgers, Sant Quirze de Pedret and Sant Vicen dObiols. Within the walls of this set of monuments, which remain virtually intact, visitors can capture the essence of Catalonias medieval past. The magic of traditional festivals such as the Fia-faia in Bag and La Patum in Berga, the quintessential popular Catalan festival declared World Heritage by UNESCO, will also transport visitors to Old Catalonia.

Countship of Besal: The Court of Tallaferro

The former county of Besal roughly corresponds to the county of Garrotxa today. Here visitors can enjoy two distinctive features of the Garrotxa region: the luxuriance of its woodlands and crops and the beauty of its volcanic landscape, such as the basalt promontory of Castellfollit de la Roca. The former earldom of Besal and, particularly, its chief town, is ideal for delving into the medieval past bequeathed by the dynasty of counts in the form of the towns architectural heritage, from the impressive bridge over the Fluvi River to its Jewish legacy. Santa Pau, set amidst the Garrotxa mountains, exemplifies one of the most beautifully preserved medieval precincts in Catalonia: a veritable treasure trove of Catalan popular architecture.

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Castle in Cardona

Viscount of Cardona: Kings without a crown

The sight of the impregnable villa and fortress of Cardona, perched on a steep hill overlooking the town and surrounded by the Cardener River, accentuates the importance of the Cardona lineage in the dynasty of counts. The appellation lords of salt by which they were known explains the economic significance of the Cardona salt mines the Sal de Cardona and the power of the viscount. The Cardonas constituted one of the most influential lineages in Catalan politics in the Middle Ages, and they were true kings without a crown. To the west and located amidst the high plateau dividing the Llobregat and Segre rivers, the Baroque city of Solsona provided a necessary counterbalance for the medieval image of Cardona. To the east of Manresa, the Monastery of Sant Benet de Bages bears testimony to the development of repopulation at the time of the dynasty of counts.

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Countship of Empries: The independent earldom

Basking amid the idyllic setting of Empord, a county submerged in more than two thousand years of history, Castell dEmpries and the Monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes lay at the heart of the earldom of Empries and continue to be key points of reference in Catalonias architectural heritage. In Castell dEmpries, visitors can delve into the monumental heritage that has survived to the present day in the former capital of the Empord earldom. Beyond lies the Monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes rising majestically on a hillside overlooking Cap de Creus peninsula a veritable Catalan finis terrae which affords an insight into the influence exerted by the Benedictine order on the advent of Catalan Romanesque art; a place of pilgrimage which is as venerable as Santiago de Compostela. The area is also home to the monasteries of Sant Quirze de Colera and Santa Maria de Vilabertran, Requesens castle and the medieval site of Peralada.

Countship of Girona: Boundary of the Carolingian Empire

The monumental nature of Gironas ancient streets, located on the right bank of the Onyar River and skirting Montjuc in the first spurs of the Gavarres massif, explains how any visitor with an ounce of sensitivity can capture the spirit of bygone times when the earldoms of Catalonia came into being. It concerns the period in which the history of Girona was intertwined with Charlemagne and the Jews bequeathed a rich legacy on the city of the Ter. This legacy finds its maximum expression in the magnificent and monumental Call (Jewish quarter), which was home to such illustrious figures as Isaac the Blind. At one end of the county of Girona, La Bisbal and its castle are key to understanding the leading role of the Church and the power of the Bishop of Girona in Catalan politics during the Middle Ages. Also particularly noteworthy are the towns of Pals and Peratallada. Their medieval architecture exemplifies the characteristic urban layout at the time of the earldoms of Catalonia.

Church of Santa Maria in Castell dEmpries

Charlemagnes Tower in the cloister of Girona Cathedral

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Countship of Osona: Keystone in Old Catalonia

Osona is one of the counties with the most character in Catalonia. Its name is derived from the Ausetans, an Iberian tribe, and their capital, the Iberian and Roman Ausa, which was an Episcopal See from the 5th century and is cited in Roman chronicles as far back as the 2nd century BC. Set in a strategic location in the cradle of the Pyrenean earldoms and Barcelona (Cap i Casal, the traditional name given to the city of Barcelona in the Principality of Catalonia), the reestablished county and bishopric of Osona was to become a keystone in Old Catalonia. The land was repopulated by Count Wilfred the Hairy and subsequently consolidated on account of the significant work of Bishop Oliba, who extended the bishopric to the west beyond Segarra. The hand of Oliba can still be recognised in the slender bell tower of Vic Cathedral, built on his initiative. Further away, isolated on a rocky promontory overlooking the Ter River, the austere Monastery of Sant Pere de Casserres brings visitors back to the beginning of the dynasty of counts. The monasteries of Maria de Llu and Santa Maria de lEstany, as well as the medieval site of LEsquerda, strategically situated on a meander of the Ter River, round off the countys treasures.
Vic Cathedral

Countship of Pallars Juss: Lords of the mountains

Surrounded by mountains on all sides, the former countship of Pallars Juss occupied the land between the Collegats gorge and the Montsec mountains, a veritable geographical wall defended at the time of the dynasty of counts by a plethora of castles and border fortresses such as the imposing castles of Mur, Llord and Sant Gervs, which still preserve the memory of Sir Arnau Mir de Tost. Within the bounds of this geostrategic territory lies the town of ger, which has wholly retained its medieval charm. At the heart of this land, irrigated by the Noguera Pallaresa River, is the Tremp River Basin, a fertile land set amidst the Pyrenees where the three revered crops of the Mediterranean thrive: wheat, grapevines and olives. Such agricultural wealth made Pallars Juss the primary target of expansion for the lords of the mountains; the base for preparing the conquest of the Lleida plains. In this context, the small Romanesque church of Santa Maria de Covet becomes a real hidden jewel just waiting to be discovered.

Castle and palace in La Bisbal dEmpord

Church of Sant Pere del Burgal

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Covet

Countship of Pallars Sobir: Romanesque architecture amid the mountains

Pallars Sobir occupies the upper basin of the Noguera Pallaresa River from the highest peaks in the Pyrenees, such as Pica dEstats, the ceiling of Catalonia (3,145 m) to the Collegats gorge, a natural boundary with Pallars Juss. In this high mountain landscape, brimming with small hamlets scattered in the most isolated nooks and crannies of secondary valleys, visitors can behold the Romanesque art of Vall dneu. It features noteworthy examples of Catalan Romanesque architecture such as the churches of Santa Maria dneu, Sant Pere de Sorpe and Sant Pere del Burgal. The latter features wall paintings that almost certainly depict Countess Llcia de la Marca, which is a testament to the social and political status of women in the earldoms of Catalonia. Sort has the remains of its castle and Esterri dneu plays host to an exhibition on Count Hug Roger III. From Espot to reu and Tabescan, each town and village conceals treasures awaiting discovery: a castle here, a Romanesque church there, upriver an old forge or the old mill of a manor house. A splendid landscape far and wide awaits you.

Countship of Ribagora: The luminosity of images

The former Pyrenean county of Ribagora spanned the area that today is divided between Catalonia and Aragon, the boundary of which is marked by the course of the Noguera Ribagorana River. The body of land unfurls between the imposing Mont-rebei gorge and the high ridge separating the Aran and the Ribagora valleys. Upriver from El Pont de Suert, the course of the Noguera de Tor River marks the path of Vall de Bo, unreachable by road until the second half of the 20th century and a true treasure in the Catalan Pyrenees. On account of the areas secular isolation, the most exceptional group of Romanesque churches in Catalonia, designated World Heritage by UNESCO in recognition of their artistic value, have survived to the present day. The churches of Durro, Erill la Vall, Sant Joan de Bo, Sant Feliu de Barruera, Assumpci de Cll, Santa Maria de Cardet and, particularly, Sant Climent de Tall and Santa Maria de Tall have become true icons of Catalan Romanesque architecture as have their wall paintings, which include the magnificent Pantocrator (Christ in Majesty) in Tall.

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Countship of Ripoll: Land Countship of Urgell: of Counts and Bishops A cathedral of saints Resting on the southern spurs of the eastern Pyrenees and strategically located at the confluence of the Ter and Freser and heretics rivers, the town of Ripoll is considered the cradle of Catalonia.
Here the Monastery of Santa Maria de Ripoll, founded by Count Wilfred the Hairy, was to become one of the first cultural linchpins in Western Christianity, where Gerbert dAurillac was to become Pope Sylvester II in the year 1000. The Monastery of Ripoll, where Oliba was bishop, is the ideal setting for visitors to absorb the atmosphere of the beginnings of Catalonia. In its vicinity stands the idyllic town of Beget, home to the Church of Sant Cristfol. Its small scale does not detract from its monumental nature. The heroic Count Wilfred the Hairy found his counterpart in the lands of Ripoll in the legendary figure of Count Arnau, who dominated the territory from Mataplana castle and Montgrony summit. Legend has it that a secret path joined Montgrony and the Monastery of Sant Joan de les Abadesses, notorious for the unspeakable sins committed there. The city of Orgellia, Episcopal See and countship, is documented as far back as the 5th century. The exact date of the re-establishment of the bishopric and county of Urgell is unknown, although early on, in the mid-9th century, La Seu dUrgell became one of the first foci of political power in the earldoms of Catalonia. As the Reconquista advanced, the bishopric and county spread from its Pyrenean cradle to the Lleida plains to which it would give its name. A land of counts and bishops, saints and heretics, La Seu dUrgell has preserved its magnificent Romanesque cathedral to the present day, which houses the legacy of Saint Armengol, the great Bishop of Urgell. Downriver in Organy, the Homilies of Organy, notes written for a Sunday sermon by the towns humble parish priest, constitute the first known literary prose in Catalan in this cradle of the Pyrenees.

Capital in Ripoll

Capital in La Seu dUrgell

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Information
For the Tourist Offices of the different towns (See pages 130 and 131). For information on tourist resources along the route, see the address sections in the other chapters as well as the final section, General information.

Frontispiece of the 13th-century Monastery of Llu in Vic

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Mountain life
Despite the difficulties presented by the geographic relief, the alpine settings of Catalonia have never been isolated and self-sufficient places, but rather just the opposite. People lived from the exploitation of immense natural resources such as timber, iron and coal, which they exported to lower altitudes, while the summer pastures of the high mountains fed thousands of heads of cattle. These were times in which rafters pushed timber downriver and the waters drove mills and traditional saws. Later on, at the beginning of the 20th century, hydroelectric plants were built which made a second industrial age in Catalonia possible. Today, an extensive network of museums provides an insight into the nature of mountain life until recent times.
Ecomuseum in Valls dneu
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Palau Ironworks in Ripoll

Flour mill in Castell dEmpries

Machinery dating from the end of the 19th century and first half of the 20th century and an exhibition unveil the secrets of flour production. Wheat cultivation and the production process following harvesting are outlined. The mill was driven by hydraulic power; the water entered the Rec del Mol, a water channel of medieval origin, to feed the Francis turbine which dates from 1905.

Palau Ironworks in Ripoll

Established as an ironworks in the 17th century, activity here continued until 1978. On display are two hammers with an elm handle and steel mallet as well as water jet pumps, a coal bunker, kiln and hearth. Outside, the waters from the Freser River were stored and fell on the hydraulic wheel to generate wind, the main characteristic feature of the method employed in Catalan forges. The Ethnography Museum is also found in Ripoll.

Flour mill in Castell dEmpries

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Cercs Mining Museum

The Cercs Mining Museum explains the arduous life of the miners and the way they extracted lignite, the type of coal extracted from the Fgols mine.

Cercs Mining Museum

The colony of Sant Corneli was established in the 19th century to accommodate coal mine workers. A description is provided of the characteristics of lignite the type of coal extracted from the Fgols mine and its uses, in addition to the working, family and social lives of the miners. The most emblematic space is a restored former gallery, which is accessed by railway.

Can Trincheria House-Museum in Olot

One of the most important manor houses in the town, it was built in the first half of the 18th century and was later extended and restored. Part of the building has been refurbished as a house-museum. Visitors can explore the main floor and gain an insight into how a bourgeois family lived. The original wall paintings continue to hang in various rooms, noteworthy among which is the generals bedchamber designed by Joan Carles Pany. Special mention should also be given to the immense crib begun by Ignasi de Trincheria in the 18th century.

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Pharmacy in Llvia
It dates back to 1415 and the first written records are from 1594. The Esteve family owned the pharmacy over seven generations, until the middle of the last century when it closed its doors. The Municipal Museum in Llvia contains its remnants. Noteworthy among the pieces on display are a world map indicating the origin of products, Renaissance boxes, blue ceramic jars and a Baroque medicine cabinet, polychrome on gilded wood.
Asland Cement Museum in Castellar de nHug

Herbal Remedies Museum in Tuixn

Many local women in the county used to collect medicinal plants and herbal remedies in these valleys and travelled around the region selling them throughout the winter. The history of these women, the trails followed on foot, the traces they left behind and the products they carried are described.

Nativity scene at Can Trincheria House-Museum in Olot

Asland Cement Museum in Castellar de nHug

At the end of the 19th century, Eusebi Gell commissioned the construction of the first Portland cement factory in Catalonia, known as Clot del Moro in the municipality of Castellar de nHug. Rafael Guastavino, the architect, used Catalan vaults in its construction, which were subsequently exported to the United States. Today the factory describes the history, manufacturing process and use of cement, as well as the lives of the men and women who worked there. A stones throw from the museum are the Artigas Gardens, designed by Antoni Gaud, in La Pobla de Lillet.

Wool Factory in Arsguel

This family-run business, passed down from one generation to the next, produces socks for the Pyrenean winter, muf flers and shepherds blankets. The machiner y is operated by means of hydraulic power. Noteworthy among the machinery is the diable, a machine which separates the wool making it softer, and the mule jenny, a spinning machine designed in the 18th century. Arsguel is also home to the Accordion Museum.

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Pharmacy in Llvia

103

Ecomuseum in Valls dneu

This brings together a number of facilities. The 18th-century Casa Gassia, in the old quarter of Esterri dneu, provides a glimpse of life in the domestic farmstead. It retains the original layout and shows the function of each room. At the sawmill in Als dIsil, the timber process is shown from when it is cut until it is transformed into planks. The set of monuments in Son are testament to religious beliefs and rites including the Romanesque bell tower, the Gothic altarpiece, the cemetery and clock tower to exorcise the storms. The set is completed with the Monastery of Sant Pere del Burgal, in the town of Escal, which explains monastic life during the Middle Ages.

de Joanchiquet Ecomuseum in Vilams

Already documented in the 17th centur y, de Joanchiquet was one of the most affluent houses in Baix Aran. Restoration has been undertaken respecting the atmosphere, furnishings and layout at the beginning of the 20th century. In addition, it has three stables and a pigeon loft surrounding an enclosed courtyard. Val dAran is also home to the Fabrica dera Lan, Victoria dArres Mine, Salard Mill and Val dAran Museum.

de Joanchiquet Ecomuseum in Vilams

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In the environs of Catllars

Set out from La Pobla de Lillet, from the Chapel of Sant Antoni in the Coromines neighbourhood, following the signs for the PRC-52 until the Monastery of Santa Maria de Lillet and the Romanesque Church of Sant Miquel; continue to the castle remains, the Catllars mountain refuge, Fred mountain pass and Roca de la Lluna vantage point. Continue through the Joc de la Pilota field, the Gespador field and the Catllars rock. You pass through a mountain pass and a track when the path turns to the right. Follow the GR-4 until the Sanctuary of Falgars and turn back on the path which, following the crest, descends to La Pobla de Lillet.
Level of difficulty: Medium. Starting point: La Pobla de Lillet. Further information: Tourist Office in La Pobla de Lillet www.poblalillet.cat www.altbergueda.cat
For high mountain routes, good maps and route diagrams are necessary.

Information
Flour Mill in Castell dEmpries Sant Francesc, 5 17486 Castell dEmpries Tel. (+34) 972 250 512 www.ecomuseu-farinera.org Can Trincheria HouseMuseum Olot. (See pages 130 and 131) Palau Ironworks Pg. Farga Catalana, 14-16 17500 Ripoll Tel. (+34) 972 714 142 turismeripoll@ajripoll.com Cercs Mining Museum 08698 Sant Corneli Tel. (+34) 938 248 187 www.cercs.cat Asland Cement Museum Paratge Clot del Moro 08696 Castellar de nHug Tel. (+34) 938 257 037 www.museuciment.cat Artigas Gardens 08696 La Pobla de Lillet Tel. (+34) 938 236 146 www.poblalillet.cat Pharmacy in Llvia 17527 Llvia Tel. (+34) 972 896 011 www.llivia.org Wool Factory 25722 Arsguel Tel. (+34) 973 384 009 arseguel.ddl.net Accordion Museum 25722 Arsguel Tel. (+34) 620 610 879 www.museudelacordio.cat Herbal Remedies Museum 25717 Tuixent Tel. (+34) 973 370 030 www.trementinaires.org Ecomuseum in Valls dneu 25580 Esterri dneu Tel. (+34) 973 626 436 www.ecomuseu.com de Joanchiquet Ecomuseum in Vilams Tel. (+34) 973 641 815 www.torismearan.org Museum of Science and Technology of Catalonia (mNACTEC) Rambla dgara, 270 08221 Terrassa Tel. (+34) 937 368 966 www.mnactec.cat Industrial Tourism Network of Catalonia Masia Freixa Pl. Freixa i Argem, s/n 08224 Terrassa Tel. (+34) 937 397 421 www.turisme-industrial.cat Tourist Offices of Castellar de nHug, Castell dEmpries, Esterri dneu, La Pobla de Lillet, Olot, Ripoll, Salard, Tuixent and Vielha (See pages 130 and 131)

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Active tourism
For adventure sports lovers, the Pyrenees present a whole host of possibilities. Whether for individuals, groups or families, the valleys of the Pyrenees offer a broad spectrum of activities for day excursions, weekends or longer breaks.
Baqueira-Beret
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Hiking in Portarr dEspot in Aigestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park

One of the most renowned trails is the Route of the Good Men, which reconstructs the route the Cathars followed from Berga to the Occitan castle of Montsgur. Hiking
Most of the valleys in the Pyrenees boast signposted paths and trails of varying length and difficulty. Various mountain crossings make the most of the network of paths and mountain refuges in the Pyrenees. Such is the case of the Carros de Foc Route in Aigestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park; La Porta del Cel, which takes in the transborder circuits in the north of the county of Pallars Sobir; and Cavalls del Vent in Cad-Moixer Natural Park. One of the most renowned trails is the Route of the Good Men, which reconstructs the route the Cathars followed from Berga to the Occitan castle of Montsgur.

Skiing
The Catalan Pyrenees are home to eleven Alpine skiing resorts and six Nordic skiing resorts. A superb network enables visitors to engage in all manner of winter sports. Besides skiing, other possibilities include night-time snowmobiling descents, dog sleighing, snowshoeing, snow cycling lessons, heliskiing, horseback riding in the snow and igloo building.

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Water sports
The whitewaters of the Pyrenean rivers are ideal for hydrospeed, bus-bob and the more popular rafting. The European Freestyle Kayak Championship is held in Sort at the beginning of July. La Seu dUrgell also plays host to international competitions, in this case in Segre Olympic Park.

River rafting on the Noguera Pallaresa

Una excellent xarxa on es poden practicar totes les modalitats dels esports blancs.

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Paragliding

Mountain biking
The Catalan Pyrenees boast various mountain biking centres with hundreds of signposted trails, which are accessible free of charge for mountain biking enthusiasts. The trails set out from a point of departure which features tourist information and bicycle facilities. The mountain biking crossing known as Pedals de Foc skir ts the perimeter of Aigestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park at different stages.

Mountaineering and climbing

Towering peaks, a profusion of scarps and rock walls and various accommodation options allow mountaineering and climbing enthusiasts to give free rein to their passion in both winter and summer alike. Numerous mountaineering bodies and small guide companies can help arrange ascents and climbs throughout the Pyrenees.

Flying sports
Hot air balloon rides, flying an ultralight aircraft or paragliding (with the utmost safety) are experiences that will be forever etched on your memory. Cerdanya and Bergued offer a whole host of flying options. ger, at the foot of Montsec, is an unrivalled setting for free flight in extraordinary natural conditions. Crossings can also be made over the Garrotxa volcanic zone or over the Pyrenees, setting out from Cerdanya.

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Horseback riding
Various horseback riding routes cross the Pyrenees. Alt Urgell, Pallars and Vall dAran have routes of varying difficulty. The Cad valleys are home to many equestrian centres, two of which are found in La Seu dUrgell. From Prullans, visitors can follow the Route of the Good Men and other trails that cross the mountains on horseback. Camprodon has an equestrian centre and equestrian sports centre. From Sant Jaume de Llierca, horseback riding trips are arranged to Cap de Creus or to the mouth of the Ter River.

Golf
Courses in the Pyrenees generally have golf schools as well as all the necessary facilities to spend the day there such as restaurants, hotels, bars and shops. Some courses have additional sporting facilities such as tennis, padel tennis, heated swimming pools and saunas.

Mountain biking

Rock climbing

Horseback riding

Golf

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Dog-sledding in Rasos de Peguera

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Climb to Mont-roig
From Bordes de Graus, skirt the reservoir to the right. At Les Bordes de Quanca, join up with the Pleta de la Palomera path where you turn left through Roia de Molls Valley. Having passed the Pleta del Fangassal, continue through the Escala depression and along the river until the high plain of the Mont-roig mountain refuge, where you stay overnight. Continue through the Lower and Middle Gallina lakes and climb the pass and the summit of Mont-roig. Descend on the same path.
Level of difficulty: Medium-high; 2 days. Accumulated difference in elevation: 1,600 m. Starting point: Bordes de Graus, 5 km from Tavascan. From Llavors (C-13) to Tavascan via the L-504, and from there follow the road to the Pleta del Prat mountain refuge. Further information: Alt Pirineu Natural Park Office in Llavors, tel. (+34) 973 622 162 Llavors Tourist Office
For high mountain routes, good maps and route diagrams are necessary.

Information
Carros de Foc Route Aigestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park www.carrosdefoc.com La Porta del Cel Route Pallars Sobir www.laportadelcel.com Cavalls del Vent Route Cad-Moixer Natural Park www.cavallsdelvent.com Route of the Good Men Bergued www.camidelsbonshomes.com Catalan Association of Ski Resorts and Mountain Activities Tel. (+34) 934 160 194 www.catneu.net Mountain biking centres in Catalonia www.turismedecatalunya. com/btt Pedals de Foc Route (For mountain bikes) www.pedalsdefoc.com Catalan Equestrian Federation Tel. (+34) 902 106 632 www.fchipica.cat Catalan Golf Federation Tel. (+34) 934 145 262 www.catgolf.com Active tourism in Catalonia www.turismedecatalunya.com/ turismeactiu

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The culture of fire A year brimming with feasts and festivals

Celebrations punctuate the passing of the months: from Carnival to Holy Week, Corpus Christi and the summer solstice on the Feast of Saint John the Baptist, local festivals and fairs, the feasts of various shrines, the harvest, the arrival of the winter solstice and Christmas. Some festivals and feasts were instigated by farmers, while others are rooted in the Church or come from so far back that their origin is unknown. To these can be added new feasts and festivals, which may be new to the scene but have taken deep root yet another facet of the thousand faces of these mountains.
Carnival celebrations in Solsona
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La Patum celebrations in Berga

Carnival in Solsona
Per Carnaval tot shi val (Anything goes at Carnival time), as the saying goes. Characterised by fancy dress and a laidback atmosphere, the day the Carnival King arrives in Solsona a fake donkey is hoisted by the neck up the town clock tower. Legend has it that the donkey was hoisted to eat the grass that had grown on the clock tower. It is not the only animal star of the festival; a cow, an owl, a dragon and creepy crawlies also figure. The Gegants Bojos (Mad Giants) dance to the beat of the paso doble. The festival lasts a week and a half until Ash Wednesday, when the donkey is taken down. The Carnival in Roses is also popular, featuring a parade of one hundred floats and a rice lunch.

Wool and Country Wedding Festival in Ripoll

Mid-May. In spring, sheep shed their winter coat. This festival commemorates the sheep shearing tradition and also features a countr y wedding. It includes a folklore exhibition, a market selling farmhouse produce and a flea market. The Herbal Remedies Festival is also held in May in Tuixn (Alt Urgell).

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La Patum de Berga
Corpus Christi. Springs festive calendar is established by Easter, a moveable feast which sets the date for the previous feasts such as Carnival and Palm Sunday and subsequent feasts such as Pentecost or Second Easter. On Pentecost Sunday the pilgrimage festival Aplec dels Francesos is held in Sant Aniol dAguja (Garrotxa) and the following day the Falgars Dance takes place in La Pobla de Lillet (Bergued). The main festival takes place on Corpus, a fortnight after Pentecost. It is held in Solsona and Bossst (Val dAran). The streets are decorated with garlands in Sant Lloren de Morunys (Solsons). However, the most resonant festival takes place in Berga, La Patum. Designated a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage by UNESCO, it takes place in the towns Plaa de Sant Pere. On the eve of Corpus Christi, a pageant of giants parade through the town at midday and again in the evening, incorporating other folk characters such as Les Guites and Les Maces. But La Patum really takes off on the Thursday of Corpus Christi. The festival gets underway at midday with a Patum de llument, and reaches its ecstatic conclusion at dusk as the streets become a deluge of fire with the salt de plens, a dance of devils brandishing firecrackers. The Ball de Tirabol dance is the grande finale. On Friday there is a childrens Patum, a Patum de llument at midday and a fiery conclusion at night. On Sunday La Patum is replicated with a Patum de llument at midday, and it reaches its pinnacle that night.
Country wedding in Ripoll

Crema deth Haro in Les (Val dAran)

23 June. Fire is the main protagonist of summer solstice celebrations. In various locations throughout the Pyrenees, the streets are ablaze with torches. The earliest are those in Durro lit one week beforehand. On the eve of Sant Joan, they are also lit in Isil (Pallars Sobir) and Tall (Alta Ribagora). In Les, a 12-metre tree trunk is erected in the square and set alight; young people light eshalhes, the bark of cherry trees. Dancing ensues and vin caud, or mulled wine, is drunk. Also in Val dAran, in Arties, the most beautiful taro, trunk of a fir tree, is set alight; once it has been burning for a while, it is knocked to the ground and dragged through the streets.

Crema deth Haro in Les

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Rafters

Rafters Day in La Pobla de Segur (Pallars Juss)

First weekend in July. Reminiscent of a former trade when tree trunks were driven downriver on improvised log rafts, the festival commences with the building of rafts underneath the Llnia dam. After lunch, the rafts take off. The journey ends at Pont de Claverol six kilometres downstream, and is followed by a rice lunch. Also in July, The Myth of Count Arnau is performed in Sant Joan de les Abadesses (Ripolls), and Bag (Bergued) is transformed into a medieval town for an entire week. On 16 July, the Feast of La Mare de Du del Carme, fishermens festivals are held where the Pyrenees touch the sea in Cadaqus and Llan.

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Pyrenees Accordionists Gathering in Arsguel (Alt Urgell)

Last weekend in July. The diatonic accordion takes centre stage alongside world music and an audience of hundreds in this town at the foot of Cad. Concert performances begin on Friday night and continue until Sunday morning. The festival includes a luthier fair and should be complemented by a visit to the Accordion Museum, also in Arsguel.
International Sheepdog Trial in Castellar de nHug

International Sheepdog Trial in Castellar de nHug (Bergued)

Last weekend in August. The contest has been running for forty years since a group of shepherds in the county came together to compete. Two trials are held in which all the sheepdogs must compete. The first entails following a circuit marked with flags, and the second involves herding a flock of sheep through a gateway. Sheepdog trials are also held in Bellver (Cerdanya), Llavors (Pallars Sobir) and Ribes de Freser (Ripolls).

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Selection of Young Horses in EspinavellMoll (Ripolls)

13 October. As the cold weather sets in, the animals descend from the mountains. In Moll, the festival begins with the descent of the horses, which have grazed in the mountains throughout the summer all the way to the Espinavell plains. Mares, horses and young mules foals arrive at eleven in the morning and deals ensue between owners and buyers. Prizes are awarded to the best specimens and, in the afternoon, the mares and mules are separated. Horses and mares later ascend the mountain once again until the first snow falls when they return to the farmsteads of their owners. Around this time, livestock fairs are held in Fontalba, Queralbs (Ripolls), Barruera (Alta Ribagora), Bellver (Cerdanya) and Esterri dneu (Pallars Sobir).
Horse and mule selection in Espinavell

Fia-faia Festival in Bag (Bergued)

24 December. Christmas rounds off the calendar of feasts and festivals. At nightfall on Christmas Eve, in Bag and the neighbouring town of Sant Juli de Cerdanyola, a bonfire is lit on a mountain crag overlooking the sunset and two flaming torches are carried down to the town centre. Upon arrival at the square, the lights are switched off and the torches are lit. When the torches are almost burnt to their ends, a bonfire is made with the remains, which kids jump over. The coals are used to toast bread, which is spread with quince aioli and washed down with pitchers of wine. Bonfires are also made in Les (Val dAran), where the Soca de Nadau (Christmas tree stump) is lit opposite the church. After Midnight Mass, songs are sung around the stump and the town hall supplies complimentary hot chocolate, cake and muscatel.

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From Berga to Queralt

From the square Plaa de Sant Pere, go up to Trencacames and take the old Queralt trail. Upon reaching Hostal de Sant Marc, continue straight ahead until you reach Tres Creus. The Queralt Sanctuary is accessed via the inclined funicular, which operates every day except Mondays. Alternatively, you can climb the stairs. Explore the church and follow the path bordering the cliff, which commands magnificent views.
Level of difficulty: Low with the exception of the steep incline. Starting point: Berga. Further information: Queralt Sanctuary, tel. (+34) 938 210 605 Berga Tourist Office

Information
Carnival in Solsona www.carnavalsolsona.com La Patum de Berga www.turismeberga.cat Crema deth Haro in Les www.turismoles.com International Sheepdog Trial in Castellar de nHug www.concursgossosdatura.com All festivals and fairs www.festes.org www.firesifestes.com www.festacatalunya.cat

Fia-faia celebrations in Bag

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Cuisine A burst of ancestral flavours

Pyrenean cuisine includes thousand-year-old recipes, dishes requiring patience and simmering and the finest mountain ingredients, combining intense flavours and rich aromas that conceal centuries of history to make freginat (sauted port liver with white beans), trinxat (savoury potato and cabbage cake), sweet and sour dishes and sumptuous paupiettes.
Selection of cheeses in Alt Urgell
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Wild mushrooms

Local produce
is brought into play to prepare veritable culinary works of art: fesols (beans) from Santa Pau; patates emmascarades from Bergued (blend of potatoes with black botifarra de perol, port tripe sausage); trinxat from Cerdanya; olla aranesa (rich meat and vegetable stew); caulets (cabbage leaves with a minced meat filling), also from Val dAran; the famous col negra (black cabbage burned by the snow) with potatoes and fried streaked bacon; and the popular escudella de blat de moro escairat (a type of stew made with yellow corn). Some Pyrenean recipes are designed to be preserved for times of year when ingredients are less prolific, such as pork confit. Other relished dishes include llamb or veal broiled on a slab of stone and river trout accompanied with a slice of bacon. Cheeses and desserts explore a symphony of flavours, a mountain of delights for the palate.

Mushrooms
Varieties of mushroom sprout in woodlands and meadows all year round. In spring, the first morels and fairy ring mushrooms (Marasmius oreades) rear their head, which are a fine accompaniment to meat, omelettes and rice dishes. The St Georges mushroom (Calocybe gambosa) also appears at this time of year, which is usually cooked in stews. At the end of the summer, the first mushrooms of mountain pine forests shoot up such as chanterelles (Cantharellus cibarius) and bloody milk caps (Lactarius sanguifluus), which are cooked on a slab and with streaked bacon and a hint of garlic, as well as the popular ceps that can be eaten raw or cooked and give great flavour to stews and creamed soups. In the midst of autumn, other varieties are found such as Hygrophorus eburneus, Caesars mushroom (Amanita caesarea), Tricholoma terreum, Cantharellus lutescens, Tricholoma russula and black trumpets (Craterellus cornucopioides). In Bergued, festivals and fairs take place in which mushrooms take centre stage. Cerdanya is home to various establishments where visitors can sample and purchase mushrooms, and in Pallars they are preserved upon collection and often feature in salads.

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Lamb
For centuries, lamb figured alongside pork as the meat reserve in the Pyrenees. Each and every part of the animal is used. The leg is used to make the traditional dish palps (a grilled and stuffed leg of lamb); the ribs to prepare the famous costelles a la brasa (ribs barbecued on an open fire); the entrails to make girella, a type of haggis from Pallars stuffed with rice and delicious served warm, which is fried and accompanied by capipota (stewed head). Carn de bstia viva is made from the tail of a one-year old lamb, and freginat from blood and liver cooked in a sweet and sour sauce made with honey and vinegar. Two of the most well-known breeds in the region are the xisqueta, a small but strong breed, and the Ripolls sheep, which has highly prized meat. The best accompaniment to charcoal-grilled meat is the exquisite allioli de codony or allioli de pera (quince or pear aioli), which is found in many restaurants throughout the Pyrenees.

Pyrenean veal
Cows and calves are bred outdoors, feed on fodder and graze in pastures. Specimens can be seen at the Livestock Fair in Bellver de Cerdanya in October and at the Livestock and Red Pyrenean Veal Fair in Ribes de Freser on the second Saturday in October, among others. The result is succulent meat for stewing, frying, broiling over hot coals, on a griddle or on a hot slab of stone. The eastern part of the Pyrenees is home to the autochthonous breed of the Albera cow, which is smaller, and the Pallars breed is found further west.

The best accompaniment to charcoal-grilled meat is the exquisite allioli de codony or allioli de pera. Aioli made from these two fruits is found in many restaurants throughout the Pyrenees.
Vilac Castell de Tort

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Pork
The dry-cured sausage llonganissa is the quintessential cold meat and is cooked over hot coals. Secallona is the best piece of pork meat stuffed in the small intestines to make a thin sausage that is left to dry; and xols, one of the most select gastronomic delights of the Pallars Pyrenees, is also made with the best piece of meat stuffing the large intestine to make a wider sausage and also hung to dry. Botifarra sausages, made from minced pork and seasoning, are many and varied: bull de la llengua, botifarra blanca, tradora, bringuera, botifarra negra. It should be noted that the names change from one valley to the next.

Game
Game stews made with deer, izard, wild boar or hare constitute an authentic cuisine. Game is always stewed, prepared with all kinds of ingredients, and left to simmer for hours on end. Other scrumptious dishes are made with poultry, such as partridge with stuffed cabbage leaves typical of the neu valleys.

Xols

Olla aranesa

Trinxat amb rosta

Mat

Fish
River trout finds its preferred habitat in the waters of the Pyrenees in the Segre, Noguera Ribagorana and Noguera Pallaresa rivers, their tributaries and uppermost lakes. Brown common trout is fished in the rivers. It is slender and elongated in shape with red and black spotting, and a soft flesh that melts in the mouth. In any case, the delicious trout served in restaurants in the Pyrenees generally comes from fish farms in the area. They are mostly served stuffed with streaked bacon and fried or grilled. Sturgeon caviar from the fish farm in Les in Val dAran can also be eaten in some locations in the Pyrenees.

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And desserts... Cheeses

Made from goats, cows and sheeps milk, many varieties are found throughout the Pyrenees: cheese preserved in olive oil, blue cheese, curd cheese, soft mild cheese, Garrotxa cheese (pressed cheese made from non-pasteurised goats milk), aged and soft cheese. One of the most typical cheeses is tup, made with spirits, and formatge serrat, a hard-paste cured variety made with sheeps milk. There are also producers making yoghurts and the popular mat, curd cheese that should be eaten with local honey or the famous butter from Cad. Many varieties of coca, a flat and oval-shaped pastry, are baked throughout the Pyrenees. Fresh out of the oven, sweetened and dipped in anise, they are a feast for the senses. In Pallars, redorts are made using the same pastry as the coca but with a hole in the middle, cut in a cross and with each piece folded on top. Other typical desserts in the Pyrenees include plums macerated in brandy, candied walnuts, mostillo made with must, flour and walnuts, crespths (a type of doughnut) from Val dAran and pears from Cerdanya. Mat with honey and walnuts, bra de gitano (a type of Swiss roll) and creams of custard can round off a meal. A veritable culinary feast!

Trout

Information
www.turismedecatalunya.com/gastronomia www.gastroteca.cat

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General information
Catalan Ministry of Innovation, Universities and Business
Direcci General de Turisme Pg. Grcia, 105 - 08008 Barcelona Tel. 934 849 500 www.gencat.cat/diue

Regional Councils
Consell Comarcal de lAlt Empord Nou, 48 - 17600 Figueres Tel. 972 503 088 www.altemporda.cat Consell Comarcal de lAlt Urgell Pg. Joan Brudieu, 15 25700 La Seu dUrgell Tel. 973 353 112 www.ccau.cat Consell Comarcal de lAlta Ribagora Av. Victori Muoz, 48 25520 El Pont de Suert Tel. 973 690 353 www.altaribagora.cat Consell Comarcal del Bergued Barcelona, 49, 3r 08600 Berga Tel. 938 213 553 www.elbergueda.cat Consell Comarcal de la Cerdanya Pl. del Rec, 5 17520 Puigcerd Tel. 972 884 884 www.cerdanya.cat Consell Comarcal de la Garrotxa Av. Onze de Setembre, 22 17800 Olot Tel. 972 274 900 www.turismegarrotxa.com Consell Comarcal del Pallars Juss Carrer Soldevila, 18 25620 Tremp Tel. 973 650 187 www.pallarsjussa.net Consell Comarcal del Pallars Sobir Mig, 9 25560 Sort Tel. 973 620 107 www.pallarssobira.info Consell Comarcal del Ripolls Progrs, 22 17500 Ripoll Tel. 972 703 211 www.ripolles.cat Consell Comarcal del Solsons Dominics, 14 25280 Solsona Tel. 973 482 003 www.turismesolsones.com Conselh Generau dAran o de Saforcada 25530 Vielha Tel. 973 641 801 www.aran.org

Tourist information Tourist Offices of the Catalan Government

Palau Robert Pg. Grcia, 107 08008 Barcelona Tel. 932 384 000 www.gencat.cat/probert Girona 17004 Rbla. de la Llibertat, 1 Tel. 972 226 575 www.girona.cat/turisme Vilob dOnyar 17185 Aeroport de Girona Tel. 972 186 708 Lleida 25007 Pl. Berenguer IV, s/n www.catalunya.com Lleida 25004 Tur Seu Vella. Edifici Canonja Tel. 973 238 446 www.catalunya.com rea de servei de lEmpord AP-7 km 35 17700 Garrigs Tel. 972 554 642 www.catalunya.com

Turisme de Catalunya
Pg. Grcia, 105 - 08008 Barcelona Tel. 934 849 900 www.catalunya.com

Town and Country Services in Girona

Migdia, 50-52 17003 Girona Tel. 972 940 100

Town and Country Services in Lleida

Av. Segre, 7 25007 Lleida Tel. 973 728 000

Catalan Ministry of the Environment and Housing

Direcci General del Medi Natural Dr. Roux, 80 - 08017 Barcelona Tel. 935 674 200 www.mediambient.gencat.cat

Other Tourist Offices

Pirineus
Bag 08695 Pujada a Palau, 7 Tel. 938 244 862 www.baga.cat Barruera (Vall de Bo) 25527 Pg. Sant Feliu, 43 Tel. 973 694 000 www.vallboi.com Berga 08600 C-16 km 96,2 Tel. 938 221 500 www.elbergueda.cat Berga 08600 ngels, 7 Tel. 938 211 384 www.turismeberga.cat Besal 17850 Pl. Llibertat, 1 Tel. 972 591 240 www.besalu.cat Camprodon 17867 Ctra. C-38, km 9,6 Tel. 972 740 936 www.valldecamprodon.org Camprodon 17867 Pl. Espanya, 1, bxs. Tel. 972 740 010 www.camprodon.cat Castellar de nHug 08696 Pl. Ajuntament Tel. 938 257 097 www.castellar.diba.cat

Catalan Ministry of Town and Country Planning and Public Works

Direcci General dArquitectura i Paisatge Arag, 244-248 08007 Barcelona Tel. 932 147 000 www.gencat.cat/ptop

Terres de Lleida Tourist Board

Rambla Ferran, 18, 3r 25007 Lleida Tel. 902 101 110 www.lleidatur.com

Costa Brava Girona Tourist Board

Av. Sant Francesc, 19, 4t 17001 Girona Tel. 972 208 401 www.pirineugirona.org

Val dAran Tourist Office

Ctra. Gausac, 1 25530 Vielha e Mijaran Tel. 973 640 688 www.torismearan.org

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Coll de Narg 25793 Pl. Ajuntament, 1 bxs Tel. 973 383 048 www.collnargo.com Coma i la Pedra, la 25284 Estaci desqu Port del Comte Tel. 973 492 378 Esterri dneu 25580 Major, 40 bis Tel. 973 626 345 www.esterrianeu.cat Gironella 08680 Torre de lAmo Colnia Viladomiu Nou Tel. 938 380 093 www.parcfluvial.org Gsol 25716 Conseller Agust Carol i Foix, s/n Tel. 973 370 016 www.gosol.cat Isona 25650 Museu, 4 Tel. 973 665 062 www.parc-cretaci.com Llavors 25595 Ctra. Cards, s/n Tel. 973 622 217 llavorsi.ddl.net Montferrer 25711 CN-260 Pol. ind. Montferrer Tels. 973 298 135/353 112 Olot 17800 Hospici, 8 Tel. 972 260 141 www.turismeolot.cat Olot 17800 Av. Sta. Coloma, s/n Tel. 972 270 086 www.parcsdecatalunya.net Organy 25794 Pl. de les Homilies Tel. 973 382 002 organya.ddl.net Pobla de Lillet, la 08696 Parc Xesco Boix Tel. 938 236 146 www.poblalillet.cat Pobla de Segur, la 25500 Av. Verdaguer, 35 Tel. 973 680 257 www.pobladesegur.cat Pont de Suert, el 25520 Av. Victoriano Muoz, 22 Tel. 973 690 640 www.elpontdesuert.cat Puigcerd 17520 Querol, 1 Tel. 972 880 542 www.puigcerda.cat Puigcerd 17520 Crulla N-152/N-260 Tel. 972 140 665 www.cerdanya.cat

Ribera de Cards 25570 (Vall de Cards) Av. Hug Roger III Tel. 973 623 239 vallcardos.ddl.net Ribes de Freser 17534 Pl. Ajuntament, 3, bxs. Tel. 972 727 728 www.vallderibes.cat Ripoll 17500 Pl. Abat Oliba s/n Tel. 972 702 351 www.ajripoll.cat Saldes 08697 Pl. Pedraforca s/n Tel. 938 258 046 www.saldes.cat Sant Feliu de Pallerols 17174 Pl. Firal, 23 Tel. 972 444 011 www.ddgi.cat/sfp Sant Joan de les Abadesses 17860 Pl. Abadia, 9 Tel. 972 720 599 www.santjoandelesabadesses.cat Sant Joan les Fonts 17857 Ctra. dOlot, 33 Tel. 972 290 507 www.santjoanlesfonts.org Santa Pau 17811 Pl. Major, 1 Tel. 972 680 349 www.garrotxa.com/santapau Seu dUrgell, la 25700 Valls dAndorra, 33 Tel. 973 351 511 www.turismeseu.com Seu dUrgell, la 25700 Pg. Joan Brudieu, 15 Tel. 973 353 112 www.ccau.cat Solsona 25280 Ctra. Bassella, 1 Tel. 973 482 310 www.turismesolsones.com Sort 25560 Cam de la Cabanera, s/n Tel. 973 621 002 www.pallarssobira.info Tremp 25620 Pl. de la Creu, 1 Tel. 973 650 005/9 www.tremp.cat Tuixent (Josa i Tuixn) 25717 Pl. Serra del Cad, 1, bxs. Tel. 973 370 030 www.trementinaires.org Vall den Bas 17177 Teixeda, 12 Tel. 972 692 177 www.vallbas.cat Vallcebre 08699 Escoles Velles, s/n Tel. 626 696 976 www.vallcebre.cat

Alt Empord
Cadaqus 17488 Cotxe, 2A Tel. 972 258 315 www.cadaques.cat Castell dEmpries 17487 Av. Pompeu Fabra. Centre Cvic Tel. 972 450 802 www.castello.cat Castell dEmpries 17486 Pl. Jaume I Tel. 972 156 233 www.castello.cat Escala, l 17130 Pl. Escoles, 1 Tel. 972 770 603 www.lescala.org Figueres 17600 Pl. del Sol s/n Tel. 972 503 155 www.figueres.cat Llan 17490 Camprodon, 16-18 Tel. 972 380 855 www.llanca.cat Llan 17490 Castellar, s/n Tel. 972 120 944 www.llanca.cat Maanet de Cabrenys 17720 Aparcament del Pont Tel. 972 544 297 www.massanet.org Peralada 17491 Pl. Peixateria, 6 Tel. 972 538 840 www.peralada.org Port de la Selva, el 17489 Mar, 1 Tel. 972 387 025 www.portdelaselva.net Portbou 17497 Pg. Llus Companys, s/n Tel. 972 125 161 www.portbou.cat Roses 17480 Av. Rhode, 77-79 Tel. 902 103 636 www.roses.cat Sant Pere Pescador 17470 Ctra.Platja, s/n Tel. 972 520 535 www.santpere.cat

Val dAran
Les 25540 Av. Sant Jaume, 39 Tel. 973 647 303 www.turismoles.com Salard 25598 Traussa de Balmes, 2 Tel. 973 645 197 www.torismearan.org Vielha e Mijaran 25530 Sarriulra, 10 Tel. 973 640 110 www.torismearan.org Pirineus Catalunya www.visitpirineus.com Parcs naturals de Catalunya www.parcsdecatalunya.net Centre Excursionista de Catalunya Tel. 933 152 311 www.cec-centre.org Federaci dEntitats Excursionistes de Catalunya Tel. 934 120 777 www.feec.cat

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 Generalitat de Catalunya Departament dInnovaci, Universitats i Empresa Direcci General de Turisme Turisme de Catalunya Photographs: J. Tous, S. Snchez, J. Pareto, O. Alamany, Patronat de turisme de lAlta Ribagora, F. Muntadas/Sincronia, T. Soriano, T. Vidal, J. Bardella/ Arxiu dAigestortes, J. Altadill, R. Manent, F. Tur, J. Balany, Conseh Generau dAran, F. Gom, Turisme de Catalunya, Arxiu Vall de Nria, Image M.A.S., Rambol, Arxiu Ajuntament de la Seu dUrgell, Arxiu Imatges dOlot/JM Pararols, MNAC, cedit pel Museu Comarcal de la Garrotxa, O.T. dOlot, I. Rovira/Obac, Ajuntament de Solsona, J.A. Adell, Patronat de Turisme de Puigcerd, E. Costa, Servicios Editoriales Georama, J. Trulls, Museu de la Cincia i de la Tcnica de Terrassa, Arxiu dImatges dOlot, J. Moragues, F. Bedmar, Magma, R. Pea, Ajuntament de Tremp. Cartography: GEA Tractament Geogrfic del Territori, S.L. Design: Postdata, disseny i comunicaci Editorial Board: Raimon Portell and Jaume Font Translation: Maria Friel and Dustin Langan (Discobole, SL) Printed by: BIGSA Legal deposit: 41507-2009

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