RESTAURANTS

Pizza is the order of the day in Veliko Turnovo and virtually every restaurant has a long menu featuring every possible combination of ingredients. Though Bulgaria is not the home of pizza, they are usually very tasty, if made with kashkaval cheese rather than mozzarella. Even non pizza restaurants in Veliko Turnovo offer pizza, but at the same time those that proclaim themselves pizzeria also offer traditional Bulgarian salads and entrees, pasta and basic grilled meats and much more besides. Handily, most menus appear to be photo menus, which makes choosing so much easier when you can see what you are going to get. We havent listed many pizzerias here, instead focusing on restaurants that offer a more varied menu.

RESTAURANTS International
www.hanhadjinikoli.com. The restaurant in this beautifully restored building in the old part of the town is one of the very few places where you can experience fine dining in Veliko Turnovo at very reasonable prices. The main restaurant is on the ground floor with an exclusive gourmet section (separate menu) at the back for about 20 people: ideal for those very special or more private dinners! The menu offers a cross-section of Bulgarian and European cuisine, from Beef Stroganoff to Pork Porchetta and Thracian Chicken. There are separate non-smoking rooms on the first floor. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (8 - 27 leva) main restaurant (16 - 30 leva) gourmet restaurant. PTA6IGBXSW

RESTAURANTS
Hadji Nikoli Inn Cafe A-2, ul.Rakovski 19, tel. (+359) 62 651 291, www. hanhadjinikoli.com. The courtyard of the beautifully restored inn is one of the most tranquil places to stop off for a coffee or a bite to eat. The cafe menu offers a selection of tasty sandwiches, pizzas and desserts. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Coffee in style for less than 2 leva (cappuccino just over 2 leva) always accompanied by a tasty home-made biscuit. PA6IGBKXW
the old shopping street (Samovodska Charshia) this popular cafe and pastry shop is located in a lovely old building with a large outdoor seating area. Inside there are several levels facing an atrium. Try the delicious iced coffee with chocolate. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. com. Indoor cafe on the ground floor of the 4-star Yantra hotel serving high quality pastries and cakes made in the hotel as well as coffee, a wide selection of teas and lunchtime snacks. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PGXW

BARS & CLUBS

Bulgarians. Large screens show music TV or sports depending on the time of day. The menu offers salads and quick main courses such as chicken fillets fried in cornflakes. Outdoor dining on the pavement. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 24:00. PJNGBXW

DIRECTORY & SHOPPING

Most of the shops are to be found on the main roads: bul. Bulgaria, Vasil Levski, Nezavisimost and Stefan Stambolov. There are plenty of pharmacies, no name clothing boutiques and shoe shops. Ul. Rakovski, the old cobbled street running parallel to ul. Stefan Stambolov is a better bet if you are looking for traditional crafts and souvenirs. There is currently one working shopping mall, Central Mall, which is some way from the city centre (not walking distance) which features fashion brands such as Kenvelo and has air conditioning as well as the only cinema in town. Up on the Sofia-Varna highway (ul. Magistralna) is where the mega hypermarkets are: Praktiker DIY store and Technopolis for electrical goods.

DIRECTORY & SHOPPING

24-hour pharmacies, one on ul. Nikola Gabrovski 33 and the other on ul. Veliki Preslav 4. Out of hours these pharmacies serve from a hatch and you may have to ring a buzzer to get someones attention.

Hadji Nikoli Restaurant A-2, ul.Rakovski 19, tel. (+359) 62 651 291,

Dada B-2, ul. Velcho Dzhamdzhiyata 12, tel. (+359) 885 840 571. Popular

Stratilat A-2, ul.Rakovski 11, tel. (+359) 62 635 313. At the beginning of

student bar with cheap drinks, loud music and a mixture of nationalities. Situated in the old town, the bar also has a garden out the back with a great view over the river and onto the hills beyond. Inside, its a big basement with huge arches. Happy hour from 17:30-19:30 on Bulgarian brands. Fills up after midnight and the party goes on all night. QOpen 17:00 - 05:00. Bar occupies a prime spot on the main road overlooking the river. The interior is nothing to get excited about, but it has a nice terrace, and offers fairly cheap drinks and snacks. Aimed at a younger crowd, the music can get loud. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. JB

Mail & Phones

Central Post Office (Tsentralna Poshta) B-1, ul. Hristo Botev 1. For posting letters use the room straight ahead from the main entrance. Phone booths are in the room to the left of the entrance, open from 09:00-14:00 and 14:30 - 18:00 on weekdays and closed at weekends. Faxes can also be sent from here. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Bulgarian
Bulgarian cuisine is tasty and surprisingly healthy. A meal will usually start with a salad, the most traditional one being the Shopska. The main course will usually be some kind of grilled meat, though many of the restaurants also offer casserole-type dishes. Make sure to ask whether your main course comes with a side serving of vegetables and potatoes, known as garnitura, otherwise you may end up without.

Lino A-1, ul. Nezavisimost 3, tel. (+ 359) 888 535 395. The bizarrely named Lino

Arts and crafts

There are many arts and crafts shops scattered around the streets of the old town, particularly on Rakovsky street and around Samovodska Charshia. ing artists shop is just a little bit off the beaten track, and a few houses up from The Monkey House. Here you will find original paintings and wood carvings by young local artists, as well as some smaller items that make unique gifts and will easily fit into your luggage. QOpen 11:30 - 19:00. Closed Mon.

Middle Eastern/International
Ethno Staro Turnovo A-1, ul. Nezavisimost 5, tel. (+359) 884 483 585, www.ethno.bg. Second outlet of the very popular restaurant offering varied international and middle eastern cuisine. The location is ideal: on the main road from the new to old town with a terrace out the back overlooking the river and the Assens monument. Inside, the decor is homely. Try the midde eastern starter tray of hummous, baba ganoush, olive paste and taramasalata with freshly baked Arabic bread, followed by one of the fish dishes or tandoori chicken. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PJAVGBXSW

Vienna Cafe A-2, pl. Velchova Zavera, Grand Hotel Yantra, www.yantrabg.

Red Gallery A-2, ul.Vastanicheska 2, tel. (+359) 888 324 039. This charm-

Fast Food
McDonalds ul. Magistralna 17, tel. (+359) 888 611 805. McDonalds
has recently come to Veliko Turnovo, though it is up on the highway that passes through from Sofia to Varna, which is not particularly convenient for anyone based in the town centre. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PTABW

Club na Architecta B-2, ul. Velcho Dzhamdzhiyata 14, tel. (+359) 62 621 451. Down a quiet alleyway in the old town, hewn into the rock face, this tavern serving traditional Bulgarian cuisine has a garden with a lovely view of the river and the town below. This is virtually the first restaurant one comes across when walking up to the town from Tsarevets fortress. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00 summer months. (3-12 leva). B
Though most locals described this place as a bar, and it describes itself as a snack bar, Malkiya Inter does in fact have a fairly substantial menu. Right opposite the museum complex, this place is good for either a drink or something quick to eat on the large shady terrace with its ceiling fans. Inside, the decor is a quirky mix of antique objects that will keep you fascinated throughout your visit. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PJA6GBXSW market Bulgarian restaurant with an interior designed to authentically evoke the era of the late 19th century. This restaurant enjoys the same good reputation as its sister restaurant in the old town, the menu extensively covering the best of Bulgarian cuisine, including charcoal grill specialties and a large variation of the traditional satch (sizzling ceramic dish). QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (6.40-29.90 leva). PTAB

Love & Lounge B-2, ul. Stefan Stambolov 29, tel. (+ 359) 888 925 030. Lovely chilled out bar with designer interior, ever so slightly off the beaten track in the old town. Lounge music during the week, electronic music at weekends. Friday evenings are language evenings for speaking English and French. QOpen 16:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:00 - 12:00.
Relatively small Irish pub down in a basement on the main street. Run by an Irishman from Galway, the pub serves Guiness, has two large screens for Sky Sports, a pool table and darts. There is one large table if you are seeking company, or separate wooden tables if you are already in a group. The central expat haunt of Veliko Turnovo with friendly staff, karaoke and live music. Typical pub grub, including chips with curry sauce. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. JXW with club and house music or retro and latino depending on the evening; serves alcohol, hot drinks and a wide selection of cocktails. Daytime is more laid back. QOpen 11:30 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 02:00. PW

The emergency telephone number is 112

(all landline and mobile operators in Bulgaria)

McNamaras Irish Pub A-1, ul. Nezavisimost 25, tel. (+359) 878 812 358.

Healthfood
live.com. Health food shop in the city centre that stocks imported organic food and drinks, herbs, teas, baby food, clothes, organic nappies and wooden toys; organic cosmetics, some of which are locally produced and are highly recommended. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Biogradina C-1, ul. Marno Pole 24 G, tel. (+359) 886 835 038, bio.garden@

EVENTS Annual events

with participants from all around the country. Held every year at the beginning of May.

Pizza
Ego Pizza & Grill A-1, ul. Nezavisimost 17, tel. (+359) 62 601 804, www. ego-vt.com. Trendy place that serves Bulgarian and Mediterranean cuisine, not just pizza. Modern interior and terrace that looks out over the river. Gets quite busy on an evening so reservation may be necessary. There is another branch of the same restaurant further down the road in the direction of the new town. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (4.50-14.70 leva). PJGBX
lascalla.com. Veliko Turnovos oldest pizzeria (over 20 years old!) offers a wide menu of pizza, pasta, Bulgarian cuisine and fish. Pizzas come in three sizes, the largest at a whopping 800 grammes to be shared between friends. QOpen 10:00 - 00:30. (5-9.30 leva). PJVGBXS

Malkiya Inter B-3, ul. Ivan Vazov 22, tel. (+359) 883 353 973.

BARS & CLUBS

The proliferation of students and younger tourists makes for a healthy bar and club scene in Veliko Turnovo. Several of the bars are owned by British or Irish expats, while the nightclubs seem to be in the hands of a couple of local businesses. Generally speaking, this is a quiet town and there is not much trouble or danger, even late at night. Drugs are sold in some of the bars and there may be occasional police raids. There are no strip clubs here and no overt advertising of escort services. Nightclubs charge between 3 and 5 leva entry, or it may be free for women on certain nights. Drink prices are reasonable, no higher than in most bars.

Balkan Folk Festival Veliko Turnovo. Authentic Bulgarian folk festival

Melodie A-2, pl. Slaveikov 1, tel. (+359) 879 477 614. Party time at this bar

Shopping Malls
674 040, office@mallvt.eu, www.mallvt.eu. Large air-conditioned shopping and entertainment Mall. A short taxi ride from the city centre. More than 60 local and international brands, cafs and a restaurant as well as the towns only cinema and bowling.QOpen 10:00-20:00 Supermarket 08:00-21:45. Places for entertainment 08:00-24:00. PAK

Central Mall ul. Oborishte 18, tel. (+359) 62

Day of Veliko Turnovo Processions, fireworks, Chinese lanterns mark the holiday of Veliko Turnovo on 22nd March. Sound and Light Show An audio visual spectacle using music and light to
evoke the dramatic and turbulent historic events around Tsarevets and the city of Turnovo. Free show on all bank holidays and the Day of Veliko Turnovo. Starts after dark. For other viewing dates, the information is vague and we suggest you contact the local Tourist Information Centre or check their website www. velikoturnovo.info. On these occasions viewers pay to view (and hear) from a special viewing deck.

Shtastlivetsa 2 ul.Tsanko Tserkovski 14, tel. (+359) 62 606 053. Up-

La Scalla B-1, ul. Hristo Botev 14, tel. (+359) 62 635 811, www.

Royal B-1, bul. Vassil Levski 4, tel. (+359) 62 601 100. Great place to enjoy

Live Music
maximus.com. Live music on piano accompanied by female singer from 22:00. Guest acts, karaoke nights, student and party nights. Olde worlde interior with bare stone walls and wooden furniture. QOpen 22:00 - 02:00. Karaoke night is free entry, usual entry fee 3 leva.

Tempo B-1, ul. Ivailo 4, tel. (+359) 62 606 920. Not just pizzas but also

Maximus B-1, ul. Nezavisimost 9, tel. (+359) 62 601 577, www.pianobar-

an outdoor drink or snack in the summer months as this bar occupies the vast terraced gardens overlooking the main street and the Mother Bulgaria monument. Trees and umbrellas provide ample shade even on the hottest days. Cocktails are on offer, as are snacks, salads and grilled meats. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00.

Vodenitsata B-1, ul. Alexander Penchev 2, Interhotel Veliko Turnovo,

tel. (+359) 62 601 000, www.interhotelvt.bg. Great choice for anyone with a family as this large outdoor restaurant is set in the well-tended gardens of the 5 star Interhotel in the quiet leafy environs of the Yantra river. The whole restaurant has a traditional theme to it and serves spit-roasted meats and other national dishes.

pasta, salads, meat and vegetarian dishes. A vast menu to choose from with some imaginative dishes, particularly those cooked in earthenware pots. Located in the city centre right opposite the tourist info centre, this is a large restaurant with smoking and non smoking sections and large patio windows that can be pushed right back so that diners are virtually on the pavement. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (4-9 leva). PJ

Tequila Bar B-2, ul. Stefan Stambolov 30. Popular bar, particularly for students,

Melon A-1, ul. Nezavisimost 21, tel. (+359) 62 603 439, www.myspace.com/

with a terrace overlooking the main road through the old town. Serves tequila cocktails as well as coffee, breakfast, snacks and any other kind of alcohol. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. is an Irish owned pub located in the center of Veliko Tarnovo with a warm and friendly atmosphere,our English speaking staff will make you feel at home.We offer a wide selection of drinks at competitive prices and we also have a tasty pub grub menu served all day. Bul. Nezavisimost 25, Veliko Tarnovo Telephone: +359 878 812 358 www.mcnamarasirishpubvt.com

Real Estate
Stara Planina Properties A-2, pl. Velchova Zavera, tel. (+359) 62 601
245, info@stara-planina.com, www.stara-planina.com. Located in the centre of town opposite the Hotel Yantra, this is a long established real estate and letting agency (including holiday lets). QOpen 08.30 - 17.30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Summer Events
16.07 Saturday - 30.07 Saturday

XIV International Folklore Festival

Annual Event with participants from around the world.

Cafes
Cafes are everywhere. Bulgarians like drinking coffee and they like to sit down to do it, so there is no shortage of cafes. Not to mention that bars and restaurants are also open all day long and will happily serve you a hot drink. We have restricted our listing to those cafes that are really worth recommending and that will enrich your experience of Turnovo. Bear in mind that coffee is served as espresso and if you would like anything other than that you should choose cappucino or a cold frappe. You can also ask for a dulgo cafe, which means an espresso with more water. Cream (smetana) comes in little plastic cartons. Tea is not popular and will usually be herbal, though those that we have listed here serve a variety of green and black teas in little teapots.

melonclub. Live music, different styles every night, including classic rock, rhythm and blues, jazz, latino and most certainly no Bulgarian pop folk. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00.

McNamara's Irish Pub

Stambolov 53A Hotel Bolyarski, tel. (+359) 62 613 200, www.bolyarski.com. Enjoy the splendid views from the rooftop (15th floor) barbecue restaurant, which is particularly pleasant on a summers evening once the sun has gone down. Meat and vegetables prepared on a charcoal grill. Alternatively you can enjoy a coffee or drink throughout the day on the quiet lobby terrace away from the busy street out front, or try the gourmet restaurant on the lower floors. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PTAULBW

Panorama Barbecue Restaurant A-2, ul.Stefan

Nightclubs
Bally B-1, ul. Hristo Botev 2, tel. (+359) 885 565 666, www.danceclubbally.
com. Two rooms offering different music styles: one for music from the Balkans, the other playing different music every night. Mondays and Tuesdays are student nights. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun.

Yantra Homes A-2, ul. Slaveikov 7, tel. (+359) 62 539 980, info@

29.07 Friday - 07.07 Thursday

yantrahomes,com, www.yantrahomes.com. Residential, commercial and industrial property for sale or rent. Centrally-located British-Bulgarian partnership. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Stage of the Ages 2011

Health
Aura Medical Centre (Meditsinski Tsentur Aura) C-1, ul. Marno Pole
21, 3rd floor, tel. (+359) 62 600 161. Private medical centre in the city centre, across from Marno Pole park, with 32 doctors covering most ailments. You may have difficulty finding anyone who speaks English. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Tsarevets fortress. Celebrating 120 years of Bulgarian Opera with the National Opera and Ballet Sofia. Q All shows start at 21:00 Ticket prices: Seats 18 leva, VIP seats 45 leva

01.08 Monday - 05.08 Friday

Ksilifor area.

www.jack-club.com. Big outdoor terrace makes this the towns top summer venue for enjoying the long hot nights. Mixed menu of Student nights, Latino nights, Ladies nights, Pop folk nights. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Summer 20:00-04:00; winter works as a cafe from 09:00-01:00. 3 leva entry fee. Cocktails 3-5 leva.

Jack B-1, bul. Vassil Levski 4, inside the theatre, tel. (+359) 887 966 600,

European Climbing Championship

Restaurants symbol key

P Air conditioning E Live music T Child friendly G Non-smoking areas R Internet A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking 6 Animal friendly

79, tel. (+359) 62 600 656, www.shtastliveca.com. The general consensus is that it is one of the better restaurants in Veliko Turnovo and it is invariably full. Situated on the high street at the beginning of the old town it offers outdoor pavement dining, but inside the restaurant is split on two levels - smoking and non-smoking - with spectacular views over the Assen Monument. The menu is extensive, you wont have time to read it all. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (5.90-25.90 leva). PTJAGBXS

Shtastlivetsa 1 A-2, ul.Stefan Stambolov

tel. (+359) 882 552 661, www.bianco-pizza.com. Open 24 hours a day, this pizzeria and grill enjoys a prime spot in the city centre opposite the Maika Bulgaria (Mother Bulgaria) monument and tourist info centre. Situated in the Military Club, it has a large covered terrace and offers a vast photo menu. A full English breakfast is available till 11:00. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Take away service 11:00 - 23:30 (3.49-9.99 leva). PJBXSW

Pizza Bianco Bar & Grill B-1, pl. Maika Bulgaria,

Midnight B-1, ul. Rafail Mihailov 2, tel. (+359) 884 855 555, www.midnight.

bg. Ultra sleek nightclub that can hold up to 350 people and plays primarily Bulgarian pop folk music. Although despised by many educated Bulgarians, pop folk is often popular with foreigners for the party atmosphere, oriental rhythms and semi-naked female performers. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. 3 leva entry.

Pubs & Bars

City Pub B-1, ul. Hristo Botev 15, tel. (+359) 888 321 645. Loud and busy
pub in the town centre close to the Tourist Info Centre. Done out like an American bar, though the website says its an Irish pub. Either way, it is owned and run by

932, www.mobaltarnovo.com. The large regional hospital has the only A&E ward, as well as doctors from almost every field of medicine. Outpatients are seen in the Arkus Medical Centre, where the receptionists speak enough English to point you in the right direction, and some of the doctors also speak English. German is also spoken. It is some way from the city centre so you would have to take a short taxi ride to get there. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Regional hospital Dr Stefan Cherkezov (Mnogoprofilna oblastna bolnitsa (MOBAL) Dr Stefan Cherkezov) ul. Nish 1, tel. (+359) 62 640

Basic vocabulary
street square How much does it cost? Thank you! Good morning Good day Good bye ulitsa ploshtad Kolko struva? Blagodarya! Dobro utro Dobur den Dovizhdane
? !

Pharmacies
There are quite a few pharmacies on the towns main shopping street, selling everything from sunscreen to babies nappies and medicines. There are two

ARBANASSI

WHERE TO STAY
Izvora Complex ul.Opalchenska 3, tel. (+359) 887 429 961/(+359) 62 601 205, fax (+359) 62 652 206, www.izvora.com. The Izvora Complex is ideal for a family break. Situated in the centre of the village, it combines the traditional local architecture with modern comfort, and offers its guests an outdoor pool, a spa centre with sauna and steam bath, a large central garden with childrens playground and a mini zoo. The Mehana (tavern) offers first-class traditional Bulgarian fare. Q32 rooms (32 singles 34 - 43, 32 doubles 40 - 60). PTABKDC Park Hotel Arbanassi ul. Kapitanska 7, tel. (+359) 62 523 000, fax (+359) 62 523 001, www.parkhotelarbanassi.com. Brand new hotel in the lush grounds of a private park. The hotel offers a modern atmosphere, extensive wellness area including swimming pool, sauna, massages and cosmetic procedures. The gourmet restaurant serving modern international cusine provides a stark contrast to the local cuisine on offer in the village. All rooms have a breathtaking view down to Veliko Turnovo and Tsarevets fortress. Q27 rooms (16 doubles 60, 8 suites 75, 3 apartments 80). PHAFLGBKDXC hhhh Rachev Hotel Residence ul.Dimitar

WHAT TO SEE Sights

Five churches, two monasteries and over 100 houses dating back to the 17th and 18th century have been preserved in Arbanassi and bear witness to the wealth and deeply held Christian faith of the towns inhabitants of that time.

LEISURE Childrens Entertainment

There is not much on offer for kids in Veliko Turnovo. The childrens playgrounds in the parks are apparently set to be totally revamped and turned into lovely modern ones, but for the meantime any children looking for somewhere to play will have to make do with the broken old metal equipment from 30 or 40 years ago. Theres a privately-run kids centre in the Marno Pole park see Smeholandia below. You can also try out the swimming pools in the town. Smeholandia A-1, ul. Marno Pole 9G, tel. (+359) 62 650 842, www. smeholandia.com. Childrens party centre with indoor soft play areas for children and toddlers. In the summer there is a bouncy castle in the park in front and seating for adults at the adjoining cafe. You can leave children on an hourly basis to play in the soft-play area inside. English spoken. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00. 4 leva per hour. PJ

SURROUNDING AREAS Campsites

In recent years a couple of campsites have sprung up in the vicinity of Veliko Turnovo, which is a much welcome addition for those who love the great outdoors and want to enjoy this lovely region.

com. The church of the Archangels Michael and Gabriel is the biggest in the village, built around 1600, with frescoes and paintings that are equally impressive to those of the Nativity church. The imposing iconostasis and Bishops throne are unusual examples of gilded woodcarving. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00 April October. November-March by request only. Standard museum admission fee. Arbanassi. Situated at the upper entrance of the village, this working convent attracts many visitors and pilgrims on religious holidays. Erected in the Middle Ages, it was later destroyed by marauders and the low-lying modest present-day church dates from 1680. Its lovely frescoes, which are still intact, were painted in the 18th century. The main attraction is the silver-clad icon of The Virgin with the Three Hands which is said to work miracles and to which believers turn to this day when in need. Legend tells that the icon was buried by the nuns when fleeing their attackers and was later found by a shepherd boy who heard weeping coming from under the ground. QOpen 07:30 - 20:30.

Church of the Archangels Michael & Gabriel (Tsurkva Sveti Arhangeli Mihail i Gavrail) Arbanassi, www.museumvt.

Camping Veliko Tarnovo ul. Vassil Levski 70, Dragizhevo village, tel. (+359) 619 42 777/+ (359) 886 877 244, office@campingvelikotarnovo.com, www. campingvelikotarnovo.com. Brand new, purpose-built campsite. Regular events are organised here for the local expat community, such as monthly car boot sales and evenings featuring different cuisines. Located in the tranquil and relaxing valley of Televets, 12 Km east of Veliko Tarnovo; take the E772 (A4) direction Varna.Turn right on to Road 53 to Elena, turning right into Dragizhevo village. At the top of the village turn left, you will find the campsite 300m beyond the village. 45 camping pitches. Q Open from 1st March to 31st October. 18 - 30 leva per night. T6BKCW

Cinema
modern, comfy and air-conditioned cinema halls in the Central Mall. To check the programme go to the English version of the site. QOpen 10:00 - 00:30. Tickets from 5-12 leva depending on whether it is a new release. P

Sights
Bacho Kiro Cave (Peshtera Bacho Kiro) Dryanovo. If you enjoy caves and
the spectacular creations you can find within, this one certainly wont disappoint. From Dryanovo Monastery the entrance to Bacho Kiro cave is no more than a gentle 20 minute climb. Visitors can choose between the short and long tour, whereby the shorter route is your better bet if you just want to get an idea of the cave as you can view this part of the cave on your own, without a guide. Be sure to wear good walking shoes as it can be quite slippery inside and it may be worth carrying your own torch. Also remember that the temperatures inside the caves are usually considerably cooler especially during the summer months. Bacho Kiro cave was first opened to visitors in 1938 but finds indicate that the caves were inhabited as far back as the Middle Paleolithic age (around 70,000 years ago). Q Open 9:00 - 18:00 April - October, 10:00 - 16:00 November - March.Short route (approx. 25 mins) 2 leva (adults) 1 lev (children) , long route (approx. 1 hour) 4 leva (adults) 2 leva (children).

Cinema Arena ul. Oborishte 18, Central Mall, www.kinoarena.com. Three

Papazov 2, tel. (+359) 882 102 121, fax (+359) 62 655 255, www.rachevarbanasi. com. Located at the edge of Arbanassi as one drives up from Turnovo, this is a hotel complex designed to fulfil your every need and especially welcoming for families. The bright and spacious rooms overlook an inner garden and pool area, which just invite you to spend more than a few days here. With all the other facilities on offer it certainly is very tempting. There are two restaurants, one indoors and a summer barbeque terrace, a lobby/pool bar, childrens pool and playground as well as a private chapel. Q50 rooms (44 doubles 56, 6 apartments 67-77). PTHAFLKDCW hhhh

Holy Virgin Monastery (Arbanashki manastir Sveta Bogoroditsa)

Outdoor Activities
Outdoor activities include hiking and mountain biking. There are hiking paths that start from Veliko Turnovo and a particulalry good one goes from the town to Arbanassi village, allowing you to take a look at the sights there too. There is an outdoor activity area called Ksilifor which is situated about 3 or 4km from Veliko Turnovo and which is popular with locals for a weekend getaway on hot days. Children can play in the playground with wooden swings and slides, there is a barbecue area and a lake. A cafe offers snacks and drinks. Rock climbing, abseiling (rapelling) down waterfalls and eco trails in the Veliko Turnovo area for all levels can be arranged by calling (+359) 899 871 688, climbing. bulgaria@gmail.com Watersports such as wakeboarding, ringos, water skiing can be had at the Alexander Stamboliiski reservoir approximately 40km from Veliko Turnovo in the direction of Sevlievo. You will need to book your sessions in advance. (+359) 886 321 510, www.watersportsvelikoturnovo.com

RESTAURANTS Restaurants & Cafes

(+359) 889 207 020, www.hotelbulgarka. com. Large indoor and outdoor seating areas in traditional mehana (tavern) style with a rich menu offering home cooked Bulgarian cuisine, including local specialities. Large childrens play area with a mini bouncy castle adjacent to the summer garden. During the summer months there is a Bulgarian folklore programme every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday evening at 21:00. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (12-40 leva). PTA6LEB

Bulgarka Restaurant Arbanassi, tel.

com. Situated in the lower part of the village, the monastery (it is in fact a convent) is a popular destination for visitors who like to walk in the lovely gardens and see the priceless icons and relics inside the chapel. The icons on the iconostasis have remained intact since 1897, while two individual icons attract pilgrims from afar: the miracle working icon of St. Nikolai and the icon of the Holy Virgin. Worshippers pray to the latter and press a coin onto it, if the coin sticks they believe their prayer has been heard. To come here on the important church holiday on August 15th (dedicated to the Holy Virgin) and to participate in the service through the night is an unforgettable experience. Both Tsar Ferdinand and Tsar Boris III stayed in this monastery when they travelled to Arbanassi and the rooms they occupied remain intact to this day. Accommodation is available at this monastery in simple, clean rooms with their own bathroom facilities. Breakfast, lunch and dinner can also be ordered. QOpen 07:30 - 20:30. Arbanassi.The Konstantsalieva house, on one of the main roads through the village, originally built in the 17th century, has been beautifully restored in National Revival style. It reflects not only the wealth of the owners but also the attention to detail and the quality craftsmanship of that time. In a style typical for Arbanassi, the two storey house is set in a large yard surrounded by a high stone wall. The lower floor is constructed of stone, the upper floor and living quarters are timber construction. Stairs are internal as an extra security precaution. The winter rooms were heated by large built in stoves (known as dzhamal) which were fed and cleaned from a separate service access. There is even an internal toilet (hole in the floor), a luxury many homes in the neighbouring villages do not have to this day. On the ground floor where the store rooms and living quarters for the servants would have been, there is a large souvenir shop. Q Open 9:00 - 18:00 April to October. Closed Mon 9:00 - 12:00. November - March by appointment. Standard museum admission fee. Nativity Church is the oldest church in Arbanassi. Originally built during the 15th century the simple low level building belies the wealth of art to be found within. Nearly every inch of the vaulted interior is covered in paintings and frescoes dating back to the 17th century. Scenes are from the old and new testaments: the life of Christ, the virtues of the Virgin Mary, there is even a frieze of Greek philosophers and several inscriptions of the benefactors and sponsors. The Wheel of Life on the east wall of the north gallery is the earliest depiction of this type in Bulgarian churches. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00 April - October. Closed on Mon 9:00 - 12:00. November - March by appointment. Standard museum admission fee.

St. Nikolai Monastery (Arbanashki manastir Sveti Nikolai Chudotvorets) Arbanassi, tel. (+359) 62 650 345, www.svnikolai-chudotvorec.

Dryanovski Monastery (Dryanovski Manastir) Dryanovo, tel. (+359)

Cycling
Cycling in Veliko Turnovo means mountain biking, as there is not a flat piece of ground in sight and most of the roads are in terrible condition. There are hiking tracks and mountain biking tracks in the hills around the town, which you can find more information about from the bike rental shop.

6767 52 63. Situated 5km southwest of the town of Dryanovo, hidden among the high rocks of the Dryanovska river gorge lies the picturesque Dryanovo Monastery. Established as early as the 12th century, the monastery in its current form dates back to 1845 when the church as well as the two storey living quarters were built. Many well loved freedom fighters found their last refuge here during the dramatic events in April 1876 and it is probably this historic significance and the breathtaking scenery that make this well worth a visit. The Bacho Kiro cave is just a short walk from here. There are also several eco-trails you can follow from here, for example to Bozhentsi. For young ones there is a rope park just behind the monastery and there are also a couple of cafes and restaurants in the area. Simple accommodation is available at the monastery in rooms with 2 or 3 beds. Q Every day 06:00 - 20:00

The Konstantsalieva House (Muzei Konstantsalieva Kushta)

Kaloyanova Krepost Arbanassi, tel. (+359) 882 111 113, www.kaloiano-

The historic architectural reserve of Arbanassi, 4 km uphill from Veliko Turnovo, is the perfect weekend getaway for all who want to enjoy some downtime in a beautiful setting, serviced by good hotels and restaurants, with plenty of sightseeing opportunities for those who cannot sit still. In recent years it has become particularly popular with well to do Bulgarians and this is reflected in the overall high standard of services and relatively high prices. There is some discrepancy about the origins of the town, but it is clear that exiled Albanian Christians settled here in the 15th century and it gradually developed into a wealthy trading town and popular summer residence for the rich until 1798 when the kurdjalii (bandits) started to loot and pillage the town, sending it into decline. Today, the beautifully restored churches and museum houses give us an insight into the former wealth and deep spiritual commitment of the people of Arbanassi.

WHERE TO STAY Hotels

Due to the limitations set by the architectural reserve status of Arbanassi, most accommodation is in beautifully restored original houses or new buildings built in strict adherence to local building guidelines (with only one notable hideous exception). There is not much here for the budget traveller, except for a room with a local family or in the St. Nikolai monastery, where individual rooms are on offer at reasonable prices. www.hotelbulgarka.com. Three luxury apartments are available for rent in this beautifully restored ethnographic complex. There is also a large authentic tavern on the site serving traditional food and drinks. Q Price per apartment per night Sun - Thur 120 leva, Fri and Sat 170 leva. Includes lavish traditional home-made breakfast with banitsa, mekitsi, buhti, fresh sirene (white cheese) and home made jam. TILBKW

vakrepost.com. This replica of a mediaevel fortress is to be found on the road out of Arbanassi towards the main Varna-Sofia road. Inside the main entrance, decorated to resemble the grand entrance to a palace with faded gilt walls and thrones, is the enormous restaurant. Tables are laid out on tiered balconies surrounding the main entertainment area in the middle where all kinds of events can be staged, from re-enactments of mediaeval battles on horseback to MMA fight nights. Though popular for weddings and private parties, the restaurant does work for regular guests and there is also a pleasant outside seating area with great views and a childrens play area. Food on offer is traditional Bulgarian. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. PEGBKX family favourite with a large garden area and good home cooking. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (12-30 leva). TB

10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Mountain bike rental 10 leva per day.

Gorgona Shop B-1, ul.Zelenka 2, tel. (+359) 62 601 400. This is probably your best bet for cycling, climbing and camping gear. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat

Swimming
There are two heated indoor pools in the largest hotels: Yantra and Interhotel, which are open to visitors. Price per day is 10 leva. The Premier Hotel has an outdoor rooftop pool and is again open to visitors. There is also an outdoor swimming pool complex with sunloungers and umbrellas at the Hotel Sveta Gora on top of Sveta Gora hill, accessed by car from ul. Magistralna, the main road to Varna. Admission 5 leva.

Nicopolis ad Istrum Nikiup. Ruins of a Roman town situated approximately 20km from Veliko Turnovo on the road to Russe and best visited in Spring, Summer or Autumn. Built by emperor Trajan at the beginning of the 2nd century B.C. after his victory over the Dacians, the town flourished until it was destroyed by the Huns in the 5th century, then rebuilt only to be destroyed again at the end of the 6th century. A typical example of Roman town planning, the streets crossed at right angles and followed the cardinal points. Most of what there is to see here are columns and bits of buildings lying in the long grass, the marble statues and other valuable finds having been removed to museums in Sofia and Veliko Turnovo. You can still see the odeon (small theatre and stage); the agora (the main square) surrounded by columns; parts of the thermi (public baths), streets paved with enormous stone blocks and remains of a waste water and central heating system! QOpen 09:00 - 18:00 April-October, 10:00-16:00 November-March Preobrazhenski Monastery (Preobrazhenski Manastir) near Veliko Turnovo. If you enjoy hiking, then the Preobrazhenski (Transfiguration) Monastery, is a good hour and a half hike (about 7km) north of Veliko Turnovo. Alternatively you can go by car or taxi along the main road to Russe, turning off after 6km. Originally dating back to the 14th century, the beginnings of the present day monastery date back to 1825 and eventually brought together two of Bulgarias most gifted artisans from the Revival period; Kolyo Ficheto and Zahari Zograf. Most remarkable among the frescoes is the depiction of the wheel of life on the southern outer wall of the church. Set among the forests on the hill overlooking the Yantra Gorge, one can enjoy the tranquility and beautiful views or let the mind wander to those turbulent years in the second half of the 19th century when many a revolutionary, including Vassil Levski, found refuge here. Q Free admission, donations welcome.

Design, layout and maps: Flo Grafix Ltd. Cover: Bulphoto Agency Lubomir Benkovski

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Luliaka Arbanassi, ul. Opalchenska 1, tel. (+359) 62 630 260. Another

Camping Veliko Tarnovo

The Nativity Church (Tsurkva Rozhdestvo Hristovo) Arbanassi. The

Bulgarka (Ethnographic Complex) Arbanassi, tel. (+359) 889 207 020,

www.inyourpocket.com

603 850, www.izvora.com. Probably one of the best places to eat in Arbanassi, especially if you have young children, as there is so much to see and do in the gardens of this complex. There is even a mini zoo to keep them entertained while you work your way through the extensive menu! Specialities include whole roasted lamb or other meat dishes prepared in the traditional oven or on the charcoal grill. There is also regular folklore entertainment and live music. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (15-30 leva). PTAILEGBXW

Mehana Izvora ul.Opalchenska 3, tel. (+359) 62 627 917, fax (+359) 62

No. 70, Vasil Levski Street, Dragizhevo Village, 5145 Tel : +359 (0)619 42777 Mobile : + 359 (0)886 877 244 email : office@campingvelikotarnovo.com www.campingvelikotarnovo.com 5 star facilities: bar, restaurant, outdoor pool, laundry, campers kitchen, family bathroom, free WiFi and archery range. Open from 1st March to 31st October. 45 camping places. 9-15 per night

Publisher: Inside & out Ltd. Office: 9 Frityof Nansen St., 5th floor, Sofia bulgaria@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com Christine Milner, (+359) 884 864 820 christine.milner@inyourpocket.com Paromita Sanatani, (+359) 888 408 647 paromita.sanatani@inyourpocket.com Printing: IFO Design Published: 15,000 copies Editorial
Editors: Christine Milner, Paromita Sanatani Contributors: Jaycie Clayton, Stephane Lambert, Maya Kacheva

Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright Inside & out 2011. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising and based on our personal experience. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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MINI-GUIDE

VELIKO TURNOVO

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INTRODUCING VELIKO TURNOVO

Bulgarias old capital and the site of great historical battles occupies a dramatic hillside location with the Yantra river winding through it. The whole town is postcard pretty in any season, though spring and autumn are the best for sightseeing as Turnovo is also one of the countrys hottest places in the summer and one of the coldest in winter. The relatively well preserved mediaeval Tsarevets fortress is the most visited historical site in the country. There is much more to see in Veliko Turnovo than Tsarevets, however, and those tourists who only swing by in their air-conditioned coaches to tick off this box are missing the laid-back atmosphere of this lovely town. Be prepared to give your feet a good bashing and wear sensible shoes as you explore the cobbled alleys and marvel at the houses built into the rocks overhanging the river. Be forewarned that there are little, if no, facilities for the disabled. The city has been inhabited since the 3rd millenium B.C., remains having been found on the now overgrown Trapezitsa hill. Thracian tribes lived on Tsarevets hill in the Bronze and Iron ages but the Romans preferred nearby Nicopolis ad Istrum with its hot springs. The towns golden age came with the declaration of independence from the Byzantine empire in 1185 by the local Boliar (an aristocratic title) brothers Ivan Assen and Peter in Veliko Turnovo. They subsequently conducted a two-year battle with the empire to secure Bulgarias freedom and in 1187 the Second Bulgarian Kingdom was born, with its capital Turnovgrad (Veliko Turnovo), and the brothers became Tsars. They are referred to as the Assens, together with a third brother, Kaloyan, who took over after their deaths. The fourth Assen is Ivan Assen II, the son of Ivan Assen, who ruled from 1218 to 1241 and brought the Kingdom to new heights, conquering neighbouring lands that gave it access not only to the Black Sea but also to the Aegean and Adriatic seas. An unconquerable fortress from the 12th to 14th centuries, Turnovgrad enjoyed an economic and cultural apogee. The city was built on three hills: Tsarevets, Trapezitsa and Sveta Gora. Tsarevets and Trapezitsa formed an innner city surrounded by impenetrable walls, where the royal palace, residence of the Patriarch (head of the church) and many places of worship were located, as well as the grand mansions of the high-ranking aristocracy, while an outer city, also fortified, spread down to Assenova Mahala by the river where the craftsmen lived and the neighbourhood of foreign traders. Only the poorest people lived outside the walls. The Second Bulgarian Kingdom came to an end in 1393 when Turnovgrad fell to the Ottoman Turk troops after a three month seige and so began almost 500 years of cultural, spiritual and political stagnation until the National Revival movement began to awaken the Bulgarians sense of national pride as the Ottoman Empires strength waned. The liberation of Bulgaria in 1877 again placed Turnovo at the centre of political life. As the new capital city it was the place where the first Bulgarian constitution was written, the first Great National Assembly took place and Prince Alexander Battenberg was elected head of state. It ceded its title of capital to Sofia in 1879. The name Turnovo is believed to come from the Slavic word trun, meaning thorn, though other theories link it to the roman word for fortress. The word Veliko, meaning great, was officially only added in 1966.

ARRIVING & GETTING AROUND

Veilko Turnovo is a small town, so everything you need to see is either within walking distance or a short taxi ride away.

WHAT TO SEE
The major sight is Tsarevets, the medieval fortress and you would never be forgiven if you came here without visiting it. There is more to see, however, including various mediaeval churches with well-preserved frescoes (if that is your thing), a couple of decent museums and the lovely cobbled streets of the old town with houses built into the rocks. The Samovodska Charshia (pictured right) that starts near Tsarevets and leads to the town centre is lined with lovely little craft shops and cafes as well as a few local craftspeople demonstating copperwork, woodwork, weaving and traditional sweet making.

WHAT TO SEE
(1185-1393). The monument depicts the four Bulgarian Tsars Assen, Peter, Kaloyan and Ivan Assen on horseback and commemorates their achievement in turning Veliko Turnovo into the great city it once was. A walk over the Stambolov bridge (built in 1892) to the monument is well rewarded by the view that one receives on the other side of the houses of old Turnovo stacked one atop the other on the hillside opposite. It is a shame the monument is not lit up at night, and plans are afoot to do precisely that.

WHAT TO SEE
per adult, so usually by the second or third museum enthusiasm wanes as the expense increases. This year some new passes have been introduced, which make it much more attractive to explore and investigate. It is worth bearing in mind that many exhibits still do not have descriptions in English. teva 2. Adjacent to the museum of Bulgarian Revival and constituent Assembly, the Archeological Museum traces the development of the region from prehistoric times via Antiquity to the Middle Ages. The undoubted highlight is one of the oldest gold treasures in the world - from Hotnitsa in the vicinity of Veliko Turnovo - dating from 4100 B.C. The treasure comprises a necklace made up of gold rings, a bracelet and 4 anthropomorphic amulets. The Bulgarian civilisation from the 5th millenium B.C., from which gold treasures have also been found in Varna, is considered by scholars to predate even the Egyptian and Sumerian civilisations. There is also an interesting collection of Roman clay objects from archeological digs at nearby Nicopolis ad Istrum and the Roman fort Novae on the Danube. QOpen 09:00-18:00 April-October 09:00-17:30 November-March. Closed Mon. Standard museum admission fee.

WHAT TO SEE Religious Buildings

40 Holy Martyrs Church (Tsurkva Sveti Chetiriset Muchenitsi) A-4, Assenova Mahala. Nestled down in the river valley, immediately below Tsarevets, the church can be reached on foot in 15 or 20 minutes from the old town or Tsarevets. The pretty little mediaeval church is not at all imposing in appearance and yet it was here that Prince Ferdinand I declared the independence of Bulgaria from Ottoman rule on September 22 1908 and became Tsar. The church was badly damaged in 1913 by an earthquake and has only recently been restored. The mediaeval tsars Kaloyan, Ivan Assen II, Mihail Shishman, Tsaritsa Anna Maria and Tsaritsa Irina, and Saint Sava of Serbia are all buried here. QOpen 09:30-18:00. Church of Saints Peter and Paul (Tsurkva Sveti Sveti Peter i Pavel) A-4, Assenova Mahala. Much of this church was also destroyed in

By Bus
Confusingly, there are two bus stations serving different routes. Buses to and from Sofia, Varna, Plovdiv and Russe run from the South (Yug) station, which is a 5-minute walk from the town centre, while buses to and from other parts of Bulgaria stop at the Zapad (West) bus station, about 4 km from the town centre. Coaches belonging to the private company ETAP stop outside the Etar hotel in the town centre.

Archaeological Museum (Arheologicheski Muzei) B-2, ul.Ivanka Bo-

Main Sights
Samovodska Charshia A-2/B-2, pl. Samovodska Charshia/ul. Rakovski.
Samovodska Charshia (market) square is where the people of nearby Samovodene village came to sell their home-grown produce in the second half of the 19th century. The marketplace flourished and spread down the quaint and cobbled Rakovski street, encompassing various inns (Hadji Nikolis inn, built 1858, is still there today), bakeries and pastry shops and traditional craft workshops. The whole area underwent serious restoration in the mid 1980s to recreate the bustling marketplace of the early 20th century. In among the beautifully renovated houses from the pre- and post-liberation period the visitor can find workshops for pottery, weapons, copper working, wood carving, weaving, icon painting, Turkish sweets and a bakery.

South Bus Station (Avtogara Yug) tel. (+359) 62 630 111. West Bus Station (Avtogara Zapad) tel. (+359) 62 640 908.

By Car
Veliko Turnovo is on the main road from Sofia to Varna at the Black Sea and you would drive through the town on your way to or from either, just bypassing the town centre. You can drive right into the city centre. Parking is paid by the hour (currently 1 lev per hour), either by text message or voucher from an attendant, easy to spot in their reflective vests. If you dont pay for parking you will find your front left wheel clamped and will have to call to have it removed. If you dont call for several hours, your car will be towed away.

Galleries
B-2, Assenevtsi Park, tel. (+359) 62 638 941. A visit to this art gallery allows you to combine a brief overview of Bulgarian art over the past century and a half with a delightful walk across the river to enjoy the incomparable view of the houses of Veliko Turnovo stacked up one atop the other on the opposite hill. Situated next to the impressive Assens monument, the gallery occupies a lovely building from the early 20th century. Inside, the collection is fairly small, which makes it all the more manageable for those without much of a clue about Bulgarian art. There is an icon room, several corridors with etchings and the main collection features views of Veliko Turnovo or historical events that took place here by various 20th century artists. A wonderful use of colour is apparent, particularly in the renditions of the houses on the hill, which you can see from here simply by looking out of the window. QOpen 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon. 3 leva (adults) 1 leva (children and students) 3 leva (family ticket). Children under 7 free of charge. Guided tour in foreign language 5 leva. Thursdays free of charge.

By Train
Not on the main Sofia-Varna line so those coming from either direction would get off in the town of Gorna Oryahovitsa and take a mini bus from in front of the station or a taxi, which should cost around 10 leva and takes 10-15 minutes. The train station in Veliko Turnovo serves the Plovdiv-Burgas line and is just south of the city centre. Trains from Istanbul and Bucharest also stop at this station.

Boris Denev State Art Gallery (Hudozhestvena Galeria Boris Denev)

Dangers & Annoyances

The biggest danger here is probably falling off the precarious walls and towers of Tsarevets fortress! A small town, Veliko Turnovo does not suffer from the usual scourges of big cities, but even so keep an eye on your belongings and exercise the usual caution walking around alone at night. Beggars seems to come out at the weekends in order to catch the tourist crowds and will sit in front of the entrances to tourist sights, often with a baby in their arms. It is up to you whether you wish to give them money or not, though be aware that the money is probably going into someone elses pocket. Take care crossing roads, as Bulgarian drivers are not known to stop at pedestrian crossings. The town has no public toilets - or no working ones at least - so if you feel the need you will have to go into a cafe, restaurant or hotel, of which there are plenty. Most will have a small dish outside the toilet with a sign asking you to pay 20 or 50 stotinki for the service.

Hadji Nikoli Art Gallery A-2, ul.Rakovski 19, tel. (+359) 62 651 291.
On the third floor of Haji Nikoli Inn the art gallery covers six exhibition halls in two separate wings and hosts exhibitions every month featuring the works of contemporary Bulgarian artists. QOpen 13:00-17:00. Closed Mon.

Landmarks
Assenova Mahala A-3/4. The neighbourhood (Mahala) of the Assens was
where the craftspeople lived in the flourishing mediaeval Veliko Turnovo. Running alongside the Yantra river below the fortress, one can reach it in 10 minutes by walking down the steep main road. At the beginning of the Mahala is the 40 Martyrs church and keeping on the same side of the river one comes across the Assumption church and St. Peter and Paul church. If you cross over the pretty Vladishki Most (Vladishki bridge) into the other half of the neighbourhood you can visit the St. Dimitur church, wander around the cobbled streets and have a drink or snack in the restaurant. Too hot in the daytime, it could be a pleasant place for a stroll of an evening, though to be honest there is not much to see here unless you are a fan of churches. In memory of those who perished in the fight for Bulgarias liberation from the Ottoman Turks, an eternal flame burns in the centre of the monument. Mother Bulgaria kneels at the top, holding up the flag of victory.

Tsarevets B-4. Without a doubt the highlight attraction of the city. With only pedestrian access one can peacefully wander around the ancient ruins, walk along the breathtaking fortress walls (if you dont suffer from vertigo) with views onto the surrounding hills of Sveta Gora, Momina Krepost and the overgrown Trapezitsa, at the foot of which is the picturesque old artisans quarter of Assenova Mahala. The main sites of the fortress are clearly identified and the visitor can follow a gentle path around. Children are free to run, clamber and discover, the only place where caution is advised is at Execution Rock at the northern end of the fortress. As the name suggests a fall from here down to the Yantra River would be nothing less than fatal. Past the palace ruins one comes to the top of the hill where once the Patriarchs complex stood. The restored patriarchal church of the Ascension takes visitors by surprise with its stark modern interior and the dramatic murals painted by Teofan Sokerov (his self portrait is to the right of the altar) in 1985. Not to everyones taste, they depict the history of Bulgaria from the Second Bulgarian Kingdom onwards (1185) and on the floor is a symbolic tombstone with the names of the Bulgarian Kings. For an additional fee (Adults 2 leva, children free) you can take the scenic elevator up the bell tower of the church to get a panoramic view of the surrounding area. Before leaving the fortress or continuing down to Baldwins tower, there is the opportunity for a refreshment stop at the caf, away from the traffic of the main road, to absorb all one has seen or to just rest the feet. You will also find acceptable toilet facilities here. Children might be entertained by a puppet show giving some pre-recorded history about Tsar Kaloyan (younger brother to Peter and Assen) in various languages or they can pose for photos dressed up in mediaeval costume. There is not much shade on Tsarevets so during the summer months it is best to avoid the midday heat. The fascinating history of the fortress is dramatized in a spectacular sound (not narrative) and coloured light show, which takes place at night on public holidays and on the holiday of Veliko Turnovo (March 22). Q 8:00-19:00 April-October; 9:00 -17:00 November-March. Last admission 45 minutes prior to closing. Standard museum admission fee. The ticket office is situated a little offside from the main entrance to the fortress.

Museum in the Hadji Nikoli Inn (Muzei Han Hadzhi Nikoli) A-2, ul.Rakovski 19, tel. (+359) 62 651 291, www.hanhadjinikoli.com. The Hadji Nikoli Inn, which was built in 1858 by the master builder Kolyo Ficheto for the well known Turnovo tradesman, Hadji Nikoli, is a splendid example of the Bulgarian Revival period. The recently restored and renovated building won a special award in the Building of the Year 2010 contest and is the only one of 70 inns that were built in the city to have survived to the present day. On the second floor there are two wings of exhibition space where visitors can enjoy special exhibitions on loan from Bulgarian museums. QOpen 10:00-20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 leva (adults) 2 leva (children and students) 3 leva per person (Groups 5+) Museum of the Bulgarian Revival and Constituent Assembly (Muzei Vuzrazhdane i Uchreditelno Subranie) B-2, pl.Saedinenie 1. On 10th

the 1913 earthquake. Until then it had been one of Turnovos longest serving churches. Today it has been partially restored and visitors can see remains of the original frescoes from three separate eras. A protective outer layer has been added to preserve the delicate frescoes. The six different columns were brought from the previous Bulgarian capitals of Pliska and Preslav. It was built during the reign of Tsar Kaloyan who in 1204 signed a union with the Roman Pope giving him the title of Tsar and head of the Bulgarian church. Q Open 09:00-18:00 April-October. Closed Wed 09:00-12:00. November-March upon request. Standard museum admission fee.

Nativity of Saint Mary Cathedral (Patriarsheski Hram Sveti Vuznesenie Gospodne) B-3, ul. Ivan Vazov. Not so much a sight as a place to

have a quite moment of contemplation while sightseeing. The interior has some damage to the frescoes but the ceiling is beautifully painted. You can buy a candle and light it at any of the icons. Services are held on Sundays from 09:00-11:00, followed by weddings and baptisms. QOpen 08:00-19:00.

February 1879 the constituent National Assembly of the Third Bulgarian State was held in the Konak (Turkish town hall), which since 1985 is home to the Museum of Bulgarian Revival and Constituent Assembly. The magnificent room in which the assembly took place is one of the highlights, although currently it is undergoing renovation and is closed to the public. If you ask nicely the warden will allow you a glimpse into the room. Other exhibition areas are dedicated to the development of icon painting, the regional struggle for liberation from the Ottoman empire and the economic development of the region during the Revival period. Unfortunately not everything is labelled in English and it really depends on your interest in these subjects as to how long you wish to spend in the museum. Q 09:00-18:00 AprilOctober, 09:00-17:30 November-March. Last admission 30 minutes prior to closing. Closed Tue 09:00-12:00. Standard museum admission fee.

St Dimitur Church (Tsurkva Sveti Dimitur Solunski) A-3, Assenova Mahala. Though there is not much to see inside this mediaeval church apart from bare stone walls and a few fragments of frescoes, it is worth a mention as a landmark and cult building due to its place in Bulgarian history. The churchs construction was financed by artistocratic brothers Assen and Peter who, at its consecration in 1185, declared independence from the Byzantine empire (a big thing after nearly two centuries of suppression) and subsequently led a war to secure Bulgarias liberty, which resulted in them being crowned as Tsars. The church is located in the Assenova Mahala down by the Yantra river below Tsarevets. QOpen 09:00-18:00 April-October. Closed Wed 09:00-12:00. November-March upon request. Standard museum admission fee.

Prison Museum (Muzei na Zatvora) B-2, pl. Suedinenie 1. This little

museum in the museum complex allows you to look around the towns prison that was used from the times of the Ottoman Turks right through the 20th century until 1954. Prisoners were held in the two storeys below ground level, sleeping on hard wooden benches and taken down to the dungeons to be systematically tortured. Primarily political prisoners, they were tortured by the Ottoman guards using a variety of gruesome methods that are described (unfortunately only in Bulgarian) and illustrated in some detail. Particularly alarming is the fact that they were beaten with the heads of other prisoners who had already been executed. Upstairs one can see the spartan solitary confinement cells, no bigger than a toilet cubicle, where prisoners were held in the 20th century. Tickets are purchased from the Museum of Recent History next door. QOpen 09:00-17:30. Closed Mon, Sun. Standard museum admission fee.

Tourist information
You can hardly miss the tourist information centre, situated right in the town centre at the main square. A purposebuilt one-storey construction, it is well manned by 4 or 5 helpful staff and has some free information brochures to give away as well as a selection of guides, maps and postcards for sale. They can also take bookings for hotels, car rental, excursions, guided tours and the towns famed Sound and Light show. Tourist Information Centre Veliko Turnovo, ul. Hristo Botev 5 tel. (+359) 62 622 148 www.velikoturnovo.info Open: April - October Monday - Friday 9:00 to 18:00 Saturday and Sunday 10:00 to 17:00. November-March Monday - Friday 9:00 to 18:00 Saturday and Sunday closed.

Museums
In the region of Veliko Turnovo and Arbanassi there are over 20 museums run by the Regional Museum of History Veliko Turnovo. Some are of major significance and should not be missed, others have been neglected or pale in comparison to Sofias main museums and others again are really just a matter of personal taste and preference. Admission to each museum is 6 leva

Taxis
Taxis in Bulgaria are all painted bright yellow and are usually branded to a particular company. They charge by the kilometre, with an initial fee of anywhere up to 1 lev. A cap on the price per kilometre has recently been imposed and will be around 60-70 stotinki daytime and slightly higher at night. Despite this, taxis are well known for ripping off tourists, either by improperly displayed prices which then turn out to be ten or twenty times higher or by claiming their meter is not working and then demanding an outrageous fee at the end of the journey. The following taxi companies have been recommended as reliable in Veliko Turnovo: Inter Taxi - (+359) 62 630 063, mobile (+359) 889 992 900 Euro Taxi - (+359) 62 633 633, mobile (+359) 887 633 633 Alex OK - (+359) 62 616 16, mobile (+359) 887 861 616. Call and hang up, they will call you back.

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Maika Bulgaria (Pametnik Maika Bulgaria) B-1, pl. Maika Bulgaria.

Standard museum admission fee

Adults 6 leva, Students 2 leva, Children under 7 - free 2 day individual ticket - admission to 10 sights - 20 leva 2 day family ticket - up to 3 children - 10 sights - 30 leva Free admission the last Thursday of the month Amateur photography 5 leva Guide services in a foreign language 20 - 30 leva For more information: www.museumvt.com

The Assens Monument (Pametnik na Assenovtsi) B-2. A landmark that

can be seen from so many points in the town and from every cafe and restaurant that has a terrace overhanging the river, this monument was erected for the 800th anniversary of the crowning of Turnovo as the capital of the second Bulgarian state

When dialling locally, the country code (+359) must be replaced with a 0.

and business premises for the wealthy money lender (Saraf in Bulgarian), this amazing five storey building has a most resilient history, withstanding both the construction of the railway tunnel below it and the 1913 earthquake that destroyed so much of Turnovo. Today, having retained its original features and decor, it acts as an ethnographic museum and the exhibits that can be seen inside give some insight not only into Bulgarian traditions in general but also typical for this region. One room is dedicated to jewellery, another to costumes and yet another shows examples of ritual breads, painted eggs and a symbolic clay raft with a figurine on it, which is set afloat in the river as part of a ritual for rain. The upper floor is dedicated to a photographic historic record of the town and its people. QOpen 09:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Open 09:00-18:00 April-October. Open 09:0017:30 November-March. Last admission 30 minutes prior to closing time. Standard museum admission fee.

Sarafkina Kushta (House) B-2, ul.Gurko 88. Built in 1861 as the home

WHERE TO STAY
Veliko Turnovo has a surprisingly large number of hotels for its small size, though considering the popularity of Tsarevets fortress perhaps it is understandable. Most seem to fill up for the weekends and it may even be difficult to get a room in your hotel of choice, whereas during the week they are quieter. The most popular hotels are in the old town and there are some lovely quiet locations overlooking Tsarevets. All in all, the level of service and facilities on offer are of very high quality.

Upmarket STREET REGISTER

Akatsia B-1 Alexander Penchev B-1 Al. Stamboliiski B-1 Assen Ruskov B-1 Bacho Kiro C-1 Boris Denev B-4 Bratia Belchevi B-1 Bratia Miladinovi A-2 Buzludzha A-1 Chernorizets Hrabur C-4 Chitalishtna B-2/3 Dimitar Naidenov C-4 Dondukov B-1 Dr. Petar Beron A-4 Dragoman A-1 Esperanto B-1 Gagarin C-1 Georgi Kirkov, pl. B-2 Gotse Delchev B-3 Grigorii Tsamblak B/C-4 Gurkho B/C-1 Hadji Dimitar B-1 Hristo Botev B/C-1 Hristo Daskalov A-1 Hristo Ivanov B-3 Hristo Karaminkov B-1 Ivan Panov B-1 Ivan Vazov B-2/3 Ivanka Boteva B-2 Ivaylo B-1 Kap. Petko Voyvoda A-1 Karadzha A-2 Kipriyan C-4 Kolyo Gaitandzhiyata A-1 Konstantin Kisimov B-1 Kozloduy C-1 Kraibrezhna B/C-2/3 Ksiliforska A-3/4 Lyuben Karavelov C-1 Maika Bulgaria, pl. B-1 Marno Pole B/C-1 Marno Pole, pl. C-1 Maxim Raykovich B-2/3 Mednikarska A-1 Mihail Kefalov B-3 Mitropolska A/B-3/4 Nezavisimost A/B-1 Nikola Pikolo B-2/3 Nikola Zlatarski A-2 Opalchenska A/B-2 Otets Paisii C-1 Panayot Angelov B-1 Panayot Tipografov A-2 Patriarch Evtimii A-3 Petar Bogdanov B-3 Pobornicheska A-2 Pobornicheski, pl. A-1 Pop Hariton C-1 Rafael Mihailov B-1 Rakovski A/B-2 Reservoarska A-2 Sava Penev B-1 Sedmi yuli C-1 Sheinovo B-3 Shipka A-2 Silvestar B-2/3 Slaveikov A-1 Slaveikov, pl. A-1 Slivnitsa B-4 St. Kliment Ohridski A/B-4 Sts Kiril i Methodi A-1/2 Stefan Stambolov A/B-2 Teodosii Turnovski C-4 Tsanko Tserkovski B-1 Tsar Assen, pl. B-3 Tsar Ivan Assen II A/B-2/3 Tsar Ivan Shishman A-4 Tsar Kaloyan B-1 Tsar Todor SvetoslavB/C-1 Tsarevets A-4 Vassil Drumev A-4 Vassil Levski B-1 Vastanicheska A-2 Velchova Zavera, pl. B-2 Yantra A-2 Yordan Indzheto B-3 Zelenka B-1

Grand Hotel Yantra B-2, pl. Velchova Zavera, ul. Opalchenska 2, tel. (+359) 62 600 607, fax (+359) 62 606 569, office@yantrabg.com, www.yantrabg.com. POJHAUFGBKDXCW hhhh Interhotel Veliko Turnovo B-1, ul. Alexander Penchev 2, tel. (+359) 62 601 000, www.interhotelvt.bg. PJAFGBKDXCW hhhh Panorama A-2, ul. Stefan Stambolov 63, tel. (+359) 62 602 600, panorama_vt @abv.bg, www.panorama-vt.bg. PTJHA6FGKDXCW hhhh Premier B-1, ul.Sava Penev 1, tel. (+359) 886 056 565/(+359) 62 615 555, www.hotelpremier-bg.com. PJULBKDCW hhhh Rachev Bolyarski A-2, ul.Stefan Stambolov 53A, tel. (+359) 62 613 200, fax (+359) 62 603 355, www.bolyarski.com. PHAFKDC hhhh

Mid-range
Akvaya Business Hotel ul. Liuben Karavelov 40, tel. (+359) 62 519 Alegro B-1, ul. Teodor Svetoslav15, tel. (+359) 62 602 332, fax (+359) 62
200, fax (+359) 62 519 201, office@akvaya.com, www.akvaya.com. PHFLEBKDXCW hhh

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Hotels symbol key

P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly R Internet F Fitness centre K Restaurant D Sauna 6 Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms M Nearest metro station C Swimming pool W Wi-Fi connection

602 333, alegro_vt@yahoo.com, www.hotelalegro.com. PJAGBKXW hhh Boliari B-2, ul. Ivanka Boteva 2, tel. (+359) 62 606 002, boliarihotel@ yahoo.com, www.boliarihotel.com. PJ hhh Central B-1, ul.Hadji Dimitar 17A, tel. (+359) 62 606 096, fax (+359) 62 606 596, www.hotelcentral-bg.com. P hhh Concorde ul. Tsanko Tserkovski 14, tel. (+359) 62 602 211, fax (+359) 62 602 222, hotelconcorde_vt@abv.bg, www.hotel-concorde-vt.com. PJHAFGKDW hhh Family Hotel Silvestar B-3, ul. Silvestar 18, tel. (+359) 62 602 025, reservation@fhsilvestar.com, www.fhsilvestar.com. PJLGBXW hhh Gurko B-2, ul. Gurko 33, tel. (+359) 62 627 838, hotel_gurko@abv.bg, www.hotel-gurko.com. PJBKW hhh Kiev B-3, ul. Velchova Zavera 4, tel. (+359) 62 600 571/(+359) 0898 549 826. PJNX hhh Lucky B-3, ul. Nikola Pikolo 3, tel. (+359) 62 651 224, www.hotel-lucky.com. PJAW hhh Minotel Rashev B-3, ul. Nikola Pikolo 2, tel. (+359) 62 622 228, fax (+359) 62 622 227, hotel_rashev@abv.bg, www.hotel-rashev.com. PJFGBKDXW Real B-1, ul. Kolio Gaitandzhiyata 2, tel. (+359) 879 357 575, info@hotelreal.eu, www.hotelreal.eu. PW hhh Studio B-3, ul. Todor Lefterov 4, tel. (+359) 62 604 010, studio@studiohotelvt.com, www.studiohotel-vt.com. PJBKW Tarnava B-3, ul. Ivan Vazov 6, tel. (+359) 62 603 862, www.hotel-tarnava.com. PW hhh Tarnovo C-1, ul. Marno Pole 25, tel. (+359) 62 651 199, reservations@ hoteltarnovo.com, www.hoteltarnovo.com. PJHULKW hhh Tsarevets B-3, ul. Chitalishtna 23, tel. (+359) 62 601 885, fax (+359) 62 605 655, tzarevetz@mail.bg, www.tsarevetshotel.com. PJA hhh

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Budget
There are quite a few hostels in the town, reflecting the number of backpackers that come through to see the sights.

Hostel Mostel B-3, ul. Yordan Indzheto 10, tel. (+359) 897 859 359, reservations@hostelmostel.com, www.hostelmostel.com. N Low Costel Hostel B-1, ul. Assen Ruskov 6, tel. (+359) 885 726 733, www.lowcostelhostel.com. N Nomads Hostel A-2, ul. Gurko 27, tel. (+359) 62 603 092/(+359) 886 039 705, info@nomadshostel.com, www.nomadshostel.com. J Phoenix Hostel A-1, ul.Hristo Daskalov 12, tel. (+359) 62 603 112/ (+359) 885 973 532, phoenixhostel@gmail.com, www.phoenixhostel.com. IGW