In addition to the shapes as identified in the pattern, you also need sew-in firm (pelmet weight) interlining for

the top, medium weight iron-on interfacing for the zipper, and soft quilting weight fleece for the body. I also use iron-on interfacing on the internal pocket pieces. You will need: 1 zipper, (I used an open end zipper 10 inches long) 1 zipper for the internal pocket, 4 swivel bolt snaps (http://www.uhandbag.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=306 ) 4 brass eyelets (http://www.uhandbag.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=141 ) and enough fabric to make two straps (either shoulder length or handbag length)

1. Cut out your shapes for top fabric, lining fabric, interlinings and internal pocket.

2. Sew both pieces of zipper onto the two oblongs for zipper by placing it equal distances from each end of the fabric (right sides together)

3. Place the lining fabric on the oblongs for zipper right sides together. Carefully sew along the zipper, along one end and along the other side. Turn out to the right sides. Press and press the other end (top fabric and lining) under.

4. Top stitch across the press end, along the zipper and across the other end. Make sure the zipper runs smoothly

5. Either pin or spray baste (that s what I use) the sew-in firm interlining to the wrong side of the two pieces of outside fabric for the top.

6. Sew the lining for the top onto the top fabric right sides together along one long side only. Turn to the right side and press.

7. Top stitch very close to the edge but leave about 2 inches at either end not top stitched.

8. Fold the lining for the body in half and press from the top for about 1 inches. Mark the centre of the top fabric at the centre. Lay the lining on the top and mark where the body centre falls. This is then your stitching line for an inverted pleat.

9. Stitch the pleat for 1inches. Press flat. Top stitch across the top of pleat to keep it flat

10. Place one piece of the internal pocket on the body lining, right sides together, making sure that the pocket is in the middle. Stitch the pocket to the lining inch from the edge.

11. Place the other piece of internal pocket on the lining of the top right sides touching making sure the pocket is in the middle. Stitch the pocket to the lining inch from the edge

12. Place both lining pieces together with the pocket pieces laid out flat, all right sides together. Stitch both pieces of lining together about inches from the edge. Sew right up to the pocket stitching.

13. Open the lining up and press. You should now have a neat hole in the middle of your lining.

(wrong side view) 14. Take your zipper and lay it flat into the hole you have created. Stitch around the zipper from the right side. (If you simply cannot sew in a zipper without pinning it in first I would suggest using fabric glue instead. Leave it to dry then stitch your zipper into place.

15. Manipulate your pocket so it sits correctly from the right side. Match up the side seams. You will need to trim your pocket at the bottom at this stage. Sew around the sides and bottom of your pocket.

16. Turn your piece so the lining is on top. Press. You now have an internal pocket!

17. Follow steps 8 and 9 for the other piece of body lining (omitting the pocket) and sew it to the other piece of top lining. Press.

18. Prepare the outer body pieces by pinning or spray basting the quilt wadding to the fabric on the wrong sides. Fold, press and stitch the centre inverted pleat as before (for the lining) Stitch both pieces of body to the corresponding tops.

19. Open both pieces up so that the lining and the outer fabric front are one continuous shape. Place one on top of the other matching sides and bottoms right sides touching. (The lining should be together and the outer fabric should be together) Pin around the shape.

20. Stitch around the shape, taking care where the two tops meet that they match up, and leave about 5 inches unsewn across the bottom of the lining.

21. Turn the bag through the hole in the lining. Manipulate the fabric and press. Turn the raw edges of the hole in the lining under and stitch close to the edge. Push the lining inside the bag. Press.

22. Measure down 1 inches from the top and mark exactly in the middle (8 inches from the end). Find the centre of the finished zipper pieces. Pin one zipper piece (with the zipper at the bottom) in the centre on the 1 mark. Top stitch across the top of this zipper piece and repeat for the other side.

23. Decide how wide and long you want your straps to be. (I ve gone for shoulder length) If you are using cotton fabric for your handles I would interline this with iron on Vilene (or similar) I am using furnishing weight fabric so I didn t interline my handles. 24. You can either make your handles/straps form one piece of fabric if you aren t lining the back of the straps with something else, or, two pieces of fabric if you are. Cut out 2 straps.

25. With right sides together stitch around both straps leaving one end unsewn. Turn the straps right side out. Turn the end under and topstitch the end closed. **Because we are using metal hooks to attach the straps to the bag make sure you make the ends narrow enough to go through the fittings.**

(See how mine taper at each end but are wider in the middle?) 26. Take some scraps the are exactly the same weight as your finished bag, i.e. outer fabric, interlining and lining. Test out your eyelet making skills on this before attempting to put them on your bag! If you need more help with eyelets Lisa has a tutorial here: http://u-handbag.typepad.com/uhandblog/2007/11/tutorial-on-how.html

(My test eyelet) 27. Measure in 3 inches from each end. Mark this spot and make sure the four marks match up. Insert your four eyelets at these points.

28. Push the ends of your straps through the top space on the hooks. Triple stitch the straps into place.

29. Attach the hooks t the bag through the eyelets.

You have now finished your bag. I also attached a cheap brooch from Accessorise onto the front for decoration.