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Contents
Fresh and Satisfying

Introduction 1
Tofu Buying Guide 7

49

Tofu Cooking Tips 14

Snacks and Starters

Naked and Simple

17

Homemade Tofu Tutorial

Master Soy Milk Recipe

23

Silken Tofu 28
Tofu Pudding 30
Block Tofu 32

Japanese Chilled Tofu

51

Chilled Tofu with Crunchy Baby Sardines

Chilled Tofu with Spicy Sauce
Tofu Skin Sashimi

53

54

55

Tofu with Century Eggs

Savory Tofu Pudding

56

59

Seasoned Pressed Tofu 38

Grilled and Fried

Tea-Smoked Pressed Tofu 40

Miso-Glazed Broiled Tofu

White Fermented Tofu 41

Fermented Tofu, Lemongrass, and Goat Skewers

Fresh Tofu Skin 44

Grilled Crisp Tofu Pockets

Soy-Simmered Fried Tofu 46

Fried Tofu with Chile Peanut Sauce

Deep-Fried Tofu

61
63

67
69

70

Creative and Modern

Spiced Tofu and Vegetable Fritters
Tofu French Fries

71

74

Fresh Tofu with Sauces and Toppings

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77

Soothing and Soft

Roast Chicken with Red Fermented Tofu

Soups and Hot Pots

Crisp Roasted Pork Belly

117

119

Poached, Simmered and Steamed

Casual and Special Soups

Simmered Greens with Fried Tofu

Tofu, Tomato, and Dill Soup

Tofu and Vegetables in Coconut Milk

Miso Soup

79

124

Spiced Tofu and Coconut in Banana Leaf

80

Tofu, Seaweed, and Pork Soup

Hot-and-Sour Soup

121
127

Tofu Chicken Meatballs in Lemongrass Broth

81

129

82

Silken Tofu and Edamame Soup

84

Tofu Bamboo and Chicken Soup

86

Versatile and Delicious

131

Salads and Sides

Warming Hot Pots

Warm Simmered Tofu

Tossed

87

Silken Tofu and Seasoned Soy Milk Hot Pot

Soy Milk Lees and Kimchi Hot Pot
Soft Tofu and Seafood Hot Pot
Stuffed Tofu in Broth

89

Tofu Noodle and Vegetable Salad

91

133

White Tofu, Sesame, and Vegetable Salad

93

Greens and Fried Tofu in Mustard Sauce

94

Spicy Lemongrass Tofu Salad

135
136

137

Pressed Tofu and Peanuts in Spicy Bean Sauce

Homey and Wholesome

97

138

Sauteed, Stir-fried, and Simmered

Main Dishes

Spicy Yuba Ribbons

139

Savory Soy Milk Lees with Vegetables

142

Stir-Fried, Panfried, and Braised

Bean Sprouts with Panfried Tofu and Chinese Chives

Stir-Fried Tofu, Shrimp, and Peas

Tofu with Kimchi and Pork Belly

100

Spicy Tofu with Beef and Sichuan Peppercorn

Panfried Tofu with Mushroom and Spicy Sesame Sauce

Tea-Smoked Tofu with Pepper and Pork
Bitter Melon with Tofu and Pork

Hakka-Style Stuffed Tofu

103

148

104

Religion and Artistry

107

151

108

Mock Meats

109
Tofu and Vegetable Fritters

Deep-Fried and Roasted

Twice-Cooked Coriander Tofu

Sweet and Savory Tofu Eel

Bear Paw Tofu

112

Soy Milk Lees and Vegetable Croquettes

Batter-Fried Tofu with Chile Soy Sauce

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147

Fermented Tofu Simmered in Coconut Milk

106

Tofu with Tomato and Green Onion

Lemongrass Tofu with Chiles

Water Spinach with Fermented Tofu

101

143

145

114
116

154
157

159

Cellophane Noodle and Tofu Rolls

Savory Okara Crumbles

161

163

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Building on Traditions
165

207

Buns, Dumplings, Crepes,

Noodles, and Rice

Spicy-Sweet Fried Tofu Buns

Tofu Steak Burgers

187

Sushi Rice in Tofu Pouches

Chile Oil

177

Spiced Chickpea Crepes with Soybean Paneer

Foxy Tofu Noodle Soup

Dashi Stock

Green Chutney

188

216
217

218

191

Ingredients 219
Selected Bibliography 224
Acknowledgments 225
Index 226

Solidified, Squeezed, and Grated

Sweet Tofu Pudding with Ginger Syrup

Measurement Conversion Charts 231

195

Tofu Blancmange with Cured Pineapple and Lime

Tofu Tiramisu

212

215

Tamarind Liquid

Sweets and Dessert

Essence of Tofu Ice Cream

211

214

Savory Kelp Relish

Amazing Transformations
193

210

213

Chicken Stock

179

182

Fried Rice with Fermented Red Tofu

208

Fermented Tofu, Lemongrass, and Chile Sauce

174

Chinese Chive and Pressed Tofu Turnovers

184

207

209

Chile and Sichuan Peppercorn Mix

172

Tofu, Pork, and Kimchi Dumplings

Stir-Fried Thai Noodles

Japanese Seasoned Soy Concentrate

Thai Sweet Chile Sauce

170

Fried Shrimp Tofu Skin Rolls

Chinese Sweet Fragrant Soy Sauce

Korean Seasoned Soy Sauce

167

Vegetarian Wontons in Chile Oil

Basics

196

198

199

Cashew and Cardamom Fudge

201

Byproduct Bonuses
Gingery Chocolate Chip Cookies
Okara Doughnuts

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203

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Silken Tofu and Edamame Soup

Edamame No Surinagashi

Serves 4 to 6 with 2 or 3 other dishes

Soybeans are such an integral part of Asian cooking that tofu

1 In a small saucepan, combine the rice, salt, and

is often paired with edamame in the same preparation, show-

water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Partially cover,

casing the beans versatility. In this lovely Japanese soup, white

and adjust the heat to allow the mixture to gently bubble

silken tofu is surrounded by a green moat of pureed edamame.

for 10 to 12 minutes. The rice will enlarge and release its

Traditionally, pods of fresh soybeans would be boiled, shelled,

starch into the water, creating a slightly thick opaque mix-

and hand mashed. You can liberate yourself by using frozen

ture similar to a thin gruel. Add the edamame, then turn off

edamame and a blender.

the heat. Set aside for 10 minutes.

This soup comes together in a snap and is elegant enough

2 Transfer the rice gruel and edamame to a blender. Add

for company. For extra flair, use homemade Citrus-Scented

Silken Tofu (page 29). When making the soup with vegetarian

the miso and blend until smooth. Add the dashi stock and

dashi, tester Susan Pi doubled the miso.

continue blending to incorporate the liquid well. Taste and

add extra miso or dashi if you want a more savory flavor

1/4

1/4

cup packed cooked white rice (short, medium, or

or thinner soup, respectively. Pour through a mesh strainer

long grain)

positioned over a bowl or saucepan; stir to facilitate strain-

teaspoon salt

ing. Discard the solids. Cover and refrigerate up to a day in

11/2 cups water, filtered or spring preferred

advance. You should have about 3 cups.

6 ounces (1 rounded cup) frozen edamame, thawed and

3 The soup may be served cold, warm, or hot. If you

at room temperature
About 11/2

teaspoons white (shiro) miso

are serving the soup warm or hot, bring the tofu to room

About 1 cup Dashi Stock (page 215)

temperature or warm it by letting it sit in hot water for

8 ounces silken tofu or Citrus-Scented Silken Tofu

about 10 minutes. Regardless, cut the tofu into 4 to 6 blocks

(page 29)
Japanese ground chile pepper (ichimi togarashi), fresh

(one for each serving); use a crinkle cutter if you want

pretty ridged surfaces.

citrus zest, or 6 edible flower petals, for garnish

Place each block of tofu in a shallow soup bowl, then

ladle the soup around it. Top the tofu with the garnish of
your choice and serve.

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Tea-Smoked Tofu with Pepper and Pork

Yan Dou Fu Gan Zhao Cai

Serves 4 with 2 or 3 other dishes

1 Cut the tofu into sticks, each about 2 inches long,

At markets in China youll see many kinds of pressed tofu for

sale. In Chengdu, I was delighted to find thin, large squares

1/ 4

of smoked pressed tofu. I bought some and ate it in my hotel

bell pepper to match the tofu. Set both ingredients aside.

room. It was lightly smoky, salty, and firm, somewhat like

Cut the pork about the same length but slightly thicker

smoked Gouda. It was a terrific snack food, but I wondered

than the tofu, which swells a bit during cooking. Put the

how locals cooked with it.

pork in a small bowl and mix it with the dark soy sauce.

A few days later, I was lucky enough to find out. Zhong Yi,

inch wide, and a good 1/8 inch thick. Trim and cut the

Set aside.

whom I wrote of at the beginning of this chapter, promised to

2 Heat the oil in a wok or large skillet over high heat.

show me some home-style Sichuan dishes, and this one was

among them.

Add the pork, spreading it out into one layer. Let it sear for

Its dead simple and brilliant at the same time. The pork

about 30 seconds, undisturbed, then give it a turn or two.

is seasoned with dark soy sauce to pair with the tofu. The bell

Let it sear on the other side for another 15 to 30 seconds,

pepper offers color and flavor. The zingy ground Sichuan pep-

until it no longer looks raw. Add the bell pepper and stir-fry

percorn underscores the smokiness of the tofu. Before I visited

for about 11/2 minutes, until the bell pepper has just started

Zhong Yis family, I had already developed a pressed tofu stir-fry

to soften. It will release some liquid.

recipe for this book. When I tasted theirs, I replaced my previ-

Add the tofu, stir to combine, then sprinkle in the salt

ous recipe with it. Recipe tester Georgia Freedman-Wand paired

and sugar. Stir-fry for about 2 more minutes, until the bell

this dish with stir-fried eggplant. It would also be good with the

pepper has cooked through and the tofu has softened a bit

water spinach and fermented tofu preparation on page 147.

from absorbing moisture from the other ingredients. If that

doesnt happen, splash in 1 tablespoon or so of water.

10 ounces Tea-Smoked Pressed Tofu or Seasoned Pressed

Sprinkle in the Sichuan peppercorn, stir and/or toss

Tofu (pages 40 and 38), or purchased brown (baked)

to combine, then transfer the stir-fry to a serving plate.

pressed tofu

Enjoy hot.

1 red bell pepper (5 to 6 ounces)

5 ounces boneless pork shoulder
11/2 teaspoons dark (black) soy sauce
2 tablespoons canola oil
1/2

teaspoon salt

1/4

teaspoon sugar

1/2

to 3/4 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorn, toasted and

ground

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White Tofu, Sesame, and Vegetable Salad

Shira-Ae

Serves 4 to 6 as a side dish

Food is not just for work. Its a chance to connect with sea-

light golden and fragrant. Let cool for 1 minute, then trans-

sonality, loveliness, the body. Enjoy its beauty, Masa Fujiwara

fer the warm seeds to a small food processor. Add the salt

explained over a Zen vegetarian lunch in Kyoto. A Japanese

and sugar and grind to a coarse texture. Add the tofu, soy

cultural liaison, he carefully chose his words and I heeded them.

sauce, and dashi. Process to a creamy mixture that is still

I gazed down at the lacquer bowl containing an artfully placed

somewhat coarse. (Or, use a mortar and pestle to pound

petite mound of shira-ae, a mostly white salad of creamy tofu,

the sesame seeds with the salt and sugar. Add the tofu and

nutty sesame, and green beans. With chopsticks, I took a

lightly pound and stir to combine. Stir in liquid ingredients.)

taste. It was sublime, delicate but flavorful.

Regardless of the method, transfer the tofu to a small

That day, I gained a greater appreciation for the Japanese

bowl and let stand for 5 minutes to develop its flavor. Season

approach to savoring small amounts of well-crafted food.

with salt or soy sauce, aiming for a pronounced savory and

I also wanted to make shira-ae myself. It is quite easy, and

sweet finish. Resist thinning the mixture with dashi because

the mashed tofu and sesame dressing can be paired with a

it may dilute the flavors. The dressing may be made 2 days

wide range of ingredients, though I prefer to focus on a single

ahead and refrigerated. Return it to room temperature before

vegetable.

using; if there is lots of pooled liquid in the container, pour it

off. Makes about 1/2 cup.

4 ounces medium-firm or firm tofu

3 Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, trim

1 tablespoon white sesame seeds

About 1/8 teaspoon salt

the stem ends from the green beans. Blanch the beans for

11/2 teaspoons sugar

1 to 2 minutes, until bright green and still crisp. Drain but

About 1 teaspoon light-colored soy sauce, such as Japanese

do not rinse. Let the beans naturally cool, during which

usukuchi shoyu or light (regular) soy sauce

they will finish cooking. Like the dressing, the beans may

2 tablespoons Dashi Stock (page 215) or water

be prepped up to 2 days ahead. Bring to room temperature

12 ounces tender green beans

before tossing.

1/4

teaspoon toasted black sesame seeds, optional

4 To serve, you have two options. Short and dainty

1 For the dressing, break up the tofu into large chunks

beans can be presented whole on a serving plate or individ-

and put them in a non-terry dishtowel or piece of muslin.

ual dishes with the dressing spooned across their midline

Gather it up and, standing over a sink, gently squeeze 2 or

like a big creamy belt; invite guests to mix the ingredients

3 times. Unwrap, transfer to a small bowl, and set aside.

themselves. Or, cut the beans into 2-inch-long pieces and

toss in the tofu dressing, coating well; divide among small

2 In a small skillet, toast the white sesame seeds,

dishes or offer on a communal plate. Regardless of presen-

shaking and stirring frequently, for 2 to 3 minutes, until

tation, garnish with the black sesame seeds.

Salads and Sides

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Spiced Chickpea Crepes with Soybean Paneer Tofu Chilla

Makes 10 to 12 crepes, to serve 4
A chilla is a popular Indian snack thats full of flavor and tex-

1/3

ture. When the batter is loaded with shredded vegetables,

cup chopped red onion, rinsed to reduce harshness

and drained well

the result is thick and pancakelike. I prefer a thin chilla thats

1 Roma tomato, seeded and chopped

filled like a crepe. Actually, depending on how you fold a chilla

2 or 3 green Thai or serrano chiles, chopped

(also spelled cheela), you may have something that looks like

11/2 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves

a taco or an enchilada.

1/4

One of the most popular chilla fillings is a mixture of paneer, tomato, and onion. Some modern Indian cooks substitute

to 1/2 teaspoon salt

3 to 4 tablespoons canola oil

2/3

cup Green Chutney (page 218)

tofu as a type of soybean paneer. That approach works really

well if you grate super-firm tofu into thick shreds. As the tofu

1 Despite this being super-firm tofu, let it drain. Put

warms up during cooking, it softens to reveal its natural rich-

the block on a non-terry dishtowel or double layer of paper

ness, becoming practically indistinguishable from paneer.

towels. Set aside for about 15 minutes.

Chilla batter is usually made of garbanzo bean flour

(besan), available at South Asian, Middle Eastern, and health

2 Meanwhile, make the batter. In a bowl, stir together

food markets, or soaked and ground mung beans. I like the

the garbanzo bean flour, rice flour, cayenne, cumin, and

ease of using the flour and lighten it with rice flour (Asian and

salt. Gradually whisk in the water. Pass the batter through

non-Asian brands work), which also helps crisp the crepes.

a coarse-mesh strainer to smooth it out. You should have

Chillas are terrific as snacks but can be also be part of a

about 21/4 cups. Set aside.

breakfast, lunch, or brunch.

3 Blot the tofu dry. Use the largest holes on the grater
6 ounces super-firm tofu

to grate it into thick strands; some crumbles are fine.

Transfer to a bowl and add the red onion, tomato, chiles,

Batter

cilantro, and salt. You should have about 2 cups of filling.

6 ounces (11/2 cups) garbanzo bean flour

21/4 ounces (1/2 cup) rice flour

4 Heat 1/2 teaspoon of the oil in a medium nonstick

1 teaspoon cayenne

skillet or griddle over medium-high heat. Wipe the oil off

1 teaspoon ground cumin

with a wadded-up paper towel. The crepe batter will cook

Scant 1 teaspoon salt

better when theres just a bit of oil on the cooking surface.

About 11/2

After this initial oiling, you may need just a few drops of oil

cups water

between crepes.
continued
Buns, Dumplings, Crepes, Noodles, and Rice

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Spiced Chickpea Crepes with Soybean Paneer

continued

crepes and do not need to cook on the other side. When

For each crepe, stir the batter until there is no more

drag, then use a ladle (a wide shallow one works like a

done, fold the crepe in half or fold in the sides to cover the

charm) to pour a scant 3 tablespoons of batter onto the skil-

filling. The crepe may crack a bit at the folds if it has crisped

let. Work the bottom of the ladle in a spiral pattern from the

a lot. Transfer to a rack to cool while you make the remain-

center to the edge to spread the batter out to a 5- to 6-inch

ing crepes. Expect the crepes to soften a bit during cooling.

Regulate the heat to prevent the crepes from browning

circle. Drizzle about 1/2 teaspoon of oil around the edge of

too quickly. If the batter thickens as you work, stir in water

the crepe.
Then put a good 2 tablespoons of the filling on top. Distribute the filling on one half of the crepe if you want to fold

by the 1/2 teaspoon. If you have a large griddle, you can

make 2 crepes at a time.

it over like a taco. Or, center the filling if you want to fold

5 These crepes are best hot or warm but are fine as a

the crepe up like an enchilada.

Let the crepe cook for about 2 minutes, until the bot-

cold snack within a couple hours of being made. Serve with

tom is crisp and golden or golden brown. Peek underneath

the chutney and eat with a fork or out of hand.

with a spatula to check on its progress. These are thin

180

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Text and location photography copyright 2012 by Andrea

Quynhgiao Nguyen
Studio photographs copyright 2012 by Maren Caruso
All rights reserved.
Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of
the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc.,
New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com
Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are
registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.
With the exception of the photographs listed below, all
others are studio photographs by Maren Caruso or location
photographs by Andrea Nguyen.
Photographs pages ii, iv (top center, top right, bottom left),
96 (top left, bottom left, top right, bottom right), 99, 102,
150 (middle right), and 206 (top left) courtesy Karen Shinto
Photographs pages 14, 60, 96 (middle right), and 98 courtesy
Lillian Chou

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Nguyen, Andrea Quynhgiao.

Asian tofu / Andrea Nguyen ; photography by Maren Caruso.
1st ed.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
Summary: A guide to making and cooking tofu, with nearly
100 horizon-expanding recipes from one of the countrys leading voices on Asian cuisineProvided by publisher.
1. Cooking (Tofu) 2. Tofu. 3. Cookbooks. I. Title.
TX814.5.T63N48 2012
641.65655dc23
2011041480
ISBN 978-1-60774-025-4
eISBN 978-1-60774-203-6
Printed in China
Design by Betsy Stromberg
Food styling by Karen Shinto
Prop styling by Dani Fisher
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Photographs pages 76 and 78 courtesy Linda Lim

First Edition
2005 LA Tofu Festival poster, page 4, courtesy Rodney Hom and
Robby Djendrono
2006 LA Tofu Festival poster, page 4, courtesy Little Tokyo
Service Center

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