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MANUAL TRAINING
FIRST LESSONS
IN
WOOD WORK
-
NG
BY
ALFRED
NEW YORK, INSTRUCTOR
G.
COMPTON
CHARGE OF THE WORKSHOPS
LOGARITHMIC COMPUTATION
IVISON,
Copyright,
1888,
CO.
17^084
PRESS OF
HENRY
H.
PREFACE
The
sented
series
is
of
lessons
in
pursued as a part of general The order of sequence is designed to lead training. the pupil from one tool to another of larger capabilities, and from one operation to another requiring a higher degree of skill. In writing the descriptions of operations the aim has been to make them so full as to enable an intelligent pupil to perform the operations tolerably well, even without the help of an instructor, and at the same time to direct the attention of the instructor to the principal points that he ought to insist on, and the principal errors that are found to occur. The work being designed for young pupils, say between the ages of eleven and fourteen, it is not intended to go over much ground, nor to impart great skill, but only to open the way, reserving for another volume a more extended course. For the same reason, a thorough analysis of the mode of action of each tool is not attempted this belongs
:
which hand-work
rather
to
school,
111
and
iv
Preface.
its
place in a
for
classes.
Nevertheless,
is
intended,
not
tool,
merely
how
to
handle the
him
the habit
of considering
how
the
tool
operates,
it
and
what
modifications
it
requires to adapt
to different
uses, affording
thus
for
the
attention
is
to
at
least
as
many
have
have been interwoven observations on the properties of the materials used, and elementary principles of mechanical
the
exercises in the use of tools
With
drawing, with the idea that the three studies, thus blended together, would lend help and stimulus to each other, and thps be pursued with more zest than
if
taught separately.
The
is
necessarily, to
some ex-
be found too long or too short, according to the time which the school may be able to allow. An intelligent instructor will
tent, arbitrary.
The
lessons
may
easily
as occasion
may
I
am
&
Fig. 8,
and
to
my
colleague.
William
Stratford, for
the
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
PAGE
iii
vii
Cutting tools
cutting
knife
and hatchet
cross1
II.
III.
IV.
V.
and hatchet continvied; whittling, and hewing Strength of wood The Cross-cut-saw Shrinking, cracking and warping
Knife
...
splitting
8 14
21
of timber
28
VI.
Working-sketches
32 38
;
VII.
VIII.
Working-drawings
IX. X.
XI.
Making a nailed box laying out the work Hammer and nails; putting a box together
44
49
.
XII.
XIII.
XIV.
The same, continued; taking apart The Jack-plane The Smoothing-plane Back-saw and bench-dog The Chisel paring and chamfering acters of different woods
. .
54
58
68
.... .78
.
char.
.85
V]
Contents.
PAGE
XV.
XVI. XVII.
XVIII.
The
The
Chisel,
continued; through
mortise;
99
end dove-tail
out the
111
Dove-tailed
box
laying
work
119
box
to-
128
XIX.
wood
136
. . .
XX.
XXI. XXII. XXIII.
Fitting hinges
isometric drawing
;
mortise
the plow
;
XXIV.
Chamfering a frame
finishing with
....
sand-
172 183
Alphabetical Index
Lessons
I.
in
Wood-Working.
TOOLS,
2.
Lead
pencil, No.
Marking-gauge.
Cross-cut-saw, 22 inches long,
Rip-saw,
22 14
8
"
4^
12
15
"
"
Tenon-saw,
Dove-tail-saw,
"
"
"
Try
Hammer, weight
Mallet,
"
handled.
handled.
1 lb.,
Jack-plane, double-ironed.
Smoothing-plane, double-ironed.
Firmer
"
chisel,
"
n.
quarter-inch
"
"
TOOLS,
PUPILS).
viii
Manual
Training.
Oil-stone, in box.
Oil-can, filled.
Bench-dog, 6 inches by
Brace.
Center-bit,
12.
^ inch.
^'^
Screw-driver, ^ inch.
Brad-awls,
and ^V^
III.
TOOLS
One chopping-block, 12
high.
One dozen
straight-edges,
1
2^'
24'',
pine.
Three glue-pots,
quart.
Three glue-brushes.
Two dozen
a a
hand-screws, 14 inches.
a
u
1 gallon.
One
One
draw-knife.
IV.
MATERIALS
of white
Lesson
I.
Stick Two
square,
10" long.
Lesson
II.
i''
2"
6'',
one
Piece of pine or
hemlock fire-wood,
Tools
and
Materials,
ix
long, about
square ends,
without knots.
Lesson
III.
Two Piece
strips
of pine,
I''
i''
3'',
one cut
12'',
Lesson IV.
of mill-dressed
pine,
r'x4''
6''
fX
Half dozen
V
X
3''
wood,
size
8'',
as the dowel.
Lesson IX.
Lesson
i"x6'' 12",
for
for practice
with plane.
pine board, f ''
Lesson XIII.
Clear
8''
26'',
top
and
split to
width
of li",
Lesson
Lesson
2"
XV. Two pieces of clear pine, XVI. Two pieces of clear white-wood,
-8".
xS'^"'-
IS"^""-
1-|-"
Lesson
1
XX.
^"
li",
with screws.
Lesson XXI.
Clear
X Hi"
pine or white-wood
plank,
H"
12"Ditto
3'
i"
16i" for
panel.
Manual
Lesson
V.
Training,
XXIV.
0.
MATERIALS
for
Lesson
III., p. 18.
diameter and 2
character
showing
(or
checks) for
Lesson V.,
numbered and
Block of walnut
Nailed box,
9^'^
5'^
3^''
9'',
X 8''- 12'',
as figured
on
p. 38.
Lessor
Cutting Tools.
I.
Knife
is
and Hatchet.
a
EVERY
You have
cutting tool
wedge, which
is
them apart
ten
as
it
advances.
square and
about
inches
long.
it
Lay
it
down on your
bench, holding
it
Pressing
down
on the knife pretty hard, you force the blade in a short distance, pushing the wood right and left, and making a small notch. You soon find, however, that you cannot force the knife forward any farther the sides exercise of the notch resist the advance cro"^^;^ting of the knife, and stop it when with knife, you have pushed it in perhaps an eighth of an inch. If you could remove the wood that presses against the sides of the knife-blade you might be able to drive it farther forward and
;
i.
Manual
cut deeper.
Training,
this if j^ou proceed
You can do
little
differently.
same distance
I
5'-^r'
easily,
lifts
because
it
up the
fibers
on one
side
and
pushes
away, bending them as in the
a while,
figure.
them
Even
after
and the blade advances no farther. If you now place your knife just to the right of the former cut and cut down towards the
left,
in the direction
c d,
of the line
you
^
as
bent
*
up,
and
leave a notch,
in
Fig.
Figs.
2.
The crooked
lines at the
1, 2,
mean
is left
of such lines
in Figs.
out as unnecessary.
shown
32, 45,
and
others.
Wood - Working,
Next place the knife a the notch, and cut in
as as
at
first.
little
to
the
left
of
in
Fig.
chip
by
d,
cutting
the
(c
^_
second
even,
time,
direction
^^
Fiq3.
Fig. 1),
at
by making this cut a little to the Repeatright, widen and deepen the notch. ing these operations, you may cut half-way
stick.
through the
make
it
it
an invariable
never
if
to
cut
towards
slips
your
own hand.
perhaps
cut
Then
more,
your tool
it
may
cut
cannot
you.
Further-
may
you should
do
so.
never carry
it
any
it
cutting
tool
your
hand, unless
i&
absolutely necessary to
In such cases
care,
else.
so as
Strict
absolutely necessary.
Manual
Training,
stick.
side,
you may
first
one,
Having
another
you
may
cut
off
piece an inch long, this time paying particular attention to the following principle.
The
any other tool for cutting wood, works best when, instead of pushing directly down on the tool, you at the same time draw it along. This is more important the softer the material is, and is well illustrated in cutting or carving meat, where, if we press on the knife without drawing it along we only bend the fibers instead of cutting them. You
knife,
or
will
always hereafter,
cutting tool, parit
in using
a knife
or other
ticularly
on soft wood, try to give ing motion along with the pressure.
mind, try now to cut
this,
a slid-
Bearing
second
this in
off the
piece,
working
hand instead of resting on the bench. Holding the stick thus you will have a better command of the knife, and will more readily
Wood - Working,
give
it
but, unless
you will run some risk of cutting yourself in making the second or If you do not feel safe in backward cut. making this cut, you may again rest the stick on the bench. To vary the exercise, you may cut the stick from all the four sides successively, leaving it nicely pointed in the form
you are very
of a square pyramid.
In this
last,
for
instance, see
pyramid are perfectly smooth and alike, whether they meet exactly in a point, and whether the edges are straight and sharp.
whether
all
four of the
faces of the
If the
piece
of
wood
might be cut
off in
way
only a short,
heavy knife driven forward by blows instead of pressure, and without the sliding motion
just
as
described.
ax, just
fibers will
make
to
distance,
and
make
it
Manual
able depth the blows
Training,
and
left
alternately,
leaving
the
piece
beveled
is
on the end.
that the
This
heavy ax
it
in felling a tree,
in cutting
up into
logs.
You may
feet
it
with a light
fire-
two
Lay
on the chopping-block,
left
hand.
First strike
cros^^ting serving
with hatchet.
how
little
it
penetrates.
Ncxt Strike obliqucly, right and left alternately. Be very careful not to strike very hard, nor to let the hatchet glance, lest you cut yourself. When you have cut about half through you may turn the stick over and cut from the other side but if you do this you must work rather carefully when you have nearly cut through, for if the last stroke, which
;
or with too
fly up,
much
force, the
and might
strike
you
Wood - Working.
and the hatchet are not adapted for cutting square across the grain of wood, though
We
shall learn
to use
when
it
is
Lesson
Knife
II.
and Hatchet
hatchet,
Continued.
THE
cutting
splitting
knife, the
and similar
are
tools
or
chopping:
they
or
used
for
hewing
paring.
pieces of pine | of
an inch
and about 6 inches long, marked A and B, Try to split from one edge a piece half an inch wide. The pieces have been selected by inspecting the grain of the
thick, 2 inches wide,
and
impossible.
Exercise
the piece
marked A,
Take Set it up
Place
Splitting with
knife.
inch with
from
the
your knife on the end, about an the edge, and press down hard
right
hand.
You
find
that
the
Take
the piece
8
marked
Wood - Working.
ment, and you find no difficulty in splitting
off the piece
required.
Now, looking
find
at
the
you
wood,
if
you
see
on the face
Your experience, examine with care. then, shows you that when you wish to split wood in a given direction you must pay attention to the grain, and when the grain is not favorable, if you wish to cut along a given line you will have to use some other method than that of splitting. We shall learn, in a few lessons, what this method is, and Avhat tool must be used. As thin and soft wood is split with the knife, so heavier and harder wood may be split with the hatchet or the ax. Try the hatchet on a piece of fire-wood, about six or
you
eight inches long, taking
first
a piece of soft
wood,
knots,
such
as
pine
or
hemlock,
without
4.
exercise
without
to
being
held.
get control
of the
strike
At movement
of the
hatchet,
you
may
10
Manual
Training,
ing
the
hatchet to stick in
the wood,
and
the
hatchet through.
are
not
to
till
you
quite
sure
your
to,
ability
strike
just
wish
hold
the piece
with
hand,
with the
right.
care,
and only by one pupil at a time, and under the eye of the instructor. Last of all, when you are quite sure of your stroke, you may venture to strike with the right hand while holding the piece with the left, but use a pretty large piece, and do not
extreme
try to split off
much
used,
at once. as
From
you have
to enable
you to work up gradually to longer pieces and harder wood, requiring stronger blows and heavier tools. Besides cutting across the grain and splitting along the
grain,
we may
to
cut
along the
given
mark.
Wood - Working.
This operation
11
performed on
small
piece
with a knife or a
hewing.
Since,
chisel, is called
paring;
it
on
is
the
cutting
is
we have
tool
split
posed mark.
Take the
side of
it
piece
crooked edge,
mer
from
edge.
mark, the
pre-
caution to be taken
tion that the
knife, following
Thus,
if
the
4,
in
is
which
A B
is
the
to be pared
down,
12
Mamtal
Ti^aining,
must be pared from left to B from right and the part from
to 0,
may
be obis
served, particularly
to be
very irregular,
it
when
to
''
it is difficult
'^
to see
which way
runs,
score
the
cuts, as
in Fig.
5, after
be-
Fia.
5,
off,
working in
to A.
New
split
are
then
pieces
to
As soon
line
you
begin
approach
to
the
cut
so
in.
that the
run
out
rather
than
ax,
The operation
is
of hewing, with
as this.
hatchet or
stick
just the
same
The
must
Wood - Working.
end
up,
and when much wood is to be taken off, it must be The scored and split as in the last exercise. operation may be tried on one exercises.
according
to
the
grain,
of
the
sticks of
2.
fire-
in Exercise
Holding the
towards
hand, turn
Score
one of
then
the
faces
the
right.
more prominent
parts,
and
with
them
off.
When
plane,
made
pretty nearly
smooth
it
off
hatchet, turning
up now
critically to
whether the
is
on
straight
and smooth.
Lesson
Strength of
III.
Wood.
previous exercises,
WE
If
have
that
it
seen,
is
in our
much
easier to cut
and
will
split
crosswise.
We
now
we examine with
consists
we
wood
other
of
fibers
or
threads
running
plants
more or
less strongly.
In
many
and more easily separated than in trees, and they are used for twisting into ropes and into threads to be used in weaving. By examining specimens of hemp and of flax, you will learn something of In the length and strength of such fibers. some kinds of wood these fibers adhere so loosely that they can be separated by heat, moisture, and bruising. The fibers of basswood and some others are thus separated, to
these fibers are longer
14
Wood - Working.
be used in
15
making
paper.
Fig. 6
shows the
appearance of the
of Pine, under
fibers of
the microscope.
Now, while
and still more, of course, when a number of them are taken together, their adhesion to
each other
is
not so great.
On
16
Manual
Training.
is
stick, six
it
inches thick,
tree,
grows in the
and we will cut off some pieces to illustrate what has been said. The stick is cut square across at the ends, and you can see the rings which mark how much the trunk grows each
year.
First I cut
off a
7.
cylindrical
piece
six
Next, from
this,
I split
and
splitting
ct.
.
ff
\\\
'
till
get
one four or
along
c
five
inches wide, by
b,
splitting
the
lines
c.
In the
piece
a b d
Wood - Working,
17
were seen in the cylindrical block, and, comparing carefully the end of the thin board
with the
see
face,
you
see
that these
edges con-
why
why
now
is
c?
a strip a b
f g,
In this runs
hatchet, I
which
will
mark
A^ the
or
i,
grain
crosswise.
fd
also half
an
and which
first
will
mark
B.
Now
taking the
by the ends and pulling it, I can break it in two but no pull that I can give is strong enough to break the other. (I am careful not to bend either of the sticks, because I want to consider now only the question of breaking by a direct pull breaking by bending is something more complicated, and cannot be considered till later.) I hand you
piece
; ;
all
now
number
of
such
strips,
of
both
that
kinds,
satisfy yourselves
18
Manual
is
Training,
it
much
easier to separate
the
fibers
from
is
that
wood
We may
With such
machine we find that the piece A is broken by a pull of 65 pounds, while it takes 700 pounds to break B, and, as the two pieces are of the same size, we conclude that this kind of wood is about eleven times as strong The operation lengthwise as it is crosswise. of testing," and the machine used for the purpose, are of the greatest importance. The architect and the engineer make use of powerful machines, in which large bars and columns can be strained till they break, and the breaking force measured. At the proper time you will find no difficulty in understanding these larger machines and operations, if you have understood the smaller ones. In the machine shown in Fig. 8, the piece to be broken is held by the clamps A and B. The wheel C
^^
Wood - Working.
being
19
turned
the screw
is
drawn down,
which raises the other end, E, of the lever, E F, and stretches the piece till it breaks. The index, G, on the spring-balance shows hoAv
great
is
the force
applied
at
F;
and
the
Fi^<y
force applied
at
E
H,
is
as
many
of
times greater
than this
before
as
the length
is
greater
than that of
As the
is
/,
piece
stretches
at
first
C,
applied
and afterwards by
20
Manual
Training.
these pieces
of
wood
of
The
knife
and
hatchet,
when
trate
cutting
fibers,
pene-
force
fibers
applied, but
when
tools,
they are
much more
such
lengthwise
ward.
obliged
With
to
therefore,
we were
and
cut
or
obliquely,
found
it
square across.
work
is
we wish to do this we must The tool specially designed the cross-cut-saw, which we
Lessor IT.
The Cross-cut-saw.
EXAMINE
that
teeth,
it
your saw
carefully.
You
find
consists of a
number
of triangular
You
in-
in
saws
that are
The one
that
you have
saw for moderately If you now examine one of these soft wood. teeth, you will find that it is pointed, and the front edge is sharp. It would be a useful exercise, and would help you to underis
^'
cross-cut ''
stand the
mode
wood
of action
of the
saw,
if
you
thin
(say
of
an
inch
thick) a
model of half a dozen teeth of each of your various saws as you become acquainted with them. When you push the saw across the grain, each of these teeth makes a cut across the fibers, just such as you can make by hold21
22
Manual
Training.
your knife upright and drawing it across Next, examining the successive the grain. teeth, you find the alternate ones sharpened in
iiig
different ways.
its
sharp edge
towards the
the right.
left,
its
edge towards
of teeth
make
to
two
cuts
are
distance saw, or
are
equal
the
thickness
of the
little
more, inas"'
much
as the
teeth
spread apart, or
set.''
make
out
if
you study
this
itself,
Now,
makes.
try to
You have
will keep
waste
wood
by you for this and simHold your knife upright on ilar experiments. the piece and draw it along, across the grain. You find, as you have found before, that you
which you
cut
is
different.
its
When
cut, the
one
next
tooth
has
made
Wood - Working.
knife not only
23
and
the
parallel to the
little
but
it
also
tears
off
piece of
cuts.
The
little
able
to
cut
and the fourth tooth tears off a little more, and so on. Thus the saw makes a clean cut with parallel sides, and wastes only a small amount of wood. We can now go on to the use of the crosscut saw. On your bench is a piece of pine
board about 4
feet 6
and f of an inch
thick.
we
will in-
in
the following
way: 6^^x|^^-4^ &\ which will be read, ^^Six inches by three-quarters of an inch, by four
feet six inches). ''
The board
is,
is
what
is
called
is
'^mill-dressed," that
saAvn
by a planingmachine, leaving a tolerably smooth surface. The piece on your bench has been cut from the end of the board, and you will very likely
from the log has been planed
off
first
place
it
is
not square
it is
in the
The
first
24
Manual
owing
Training,
is
The cracks
or
checks''
we
Now
to first
the
mark
first
it
For the
wooden
part
of
the
lie flat
as a ruler,
draw a pencil-mark;
this line
run
You must
will
be care-
drawing
make
which is not parallel to the edge of the square, and therefore not perpendicular to the
edge of the board.
far
Draw such
line to
just
leave
out
off*
We
will
then cut
thus
with
the
saw the
imp^fect
piece
marked.
There are several ways in which the board
Wood - Working.
25
may
For
be held while
this
we
you
are
making
hold
vise
this
it
cut.
exercise
bench-vise.
Observe
it
in
the
7.
exercise
works.
Open
to
^^^^ ^^^ your board, lay the board in it, with the imperfect end to the left and the
and screw the vise up so as to hold the board firmly, the marked piece projecting beyond the end of the bench. Take the saw in your right hand. (If you are left-handed you will do well, nevertheless,
face up,
to
marked
learn to
still,
Avork
to
with the
right
hand,
or,
better
hands.
It is
and there are some things which can only be done with the right.) Set the saw to the left of the mark, just so far that when you cut you will cut exactly up to the mark, but not beyond it. Rest the fingers of tire left hand on the wood outside of the mark, holding the thumb up for a guide to steady the saw. Draw the saw backward, letting it rest very lightly on the wood, till you have made sure that the cut will be in the right place; then push it forward, still
26
Manual
Training,
Having
full
started
tinue
it
length of
the saw.
Avoid
at
Draw
hand
it
each stroke
till
the
for-
ward
till
smoother
as well
as faster,
aflPords
a pleasant exercise.
Be careful not to bear too hard on the saw; if you do, you will bend the saw, and it will make a crooked cut. While working, watch the saw, to see that you keep it perpendicular
to
is
When
the cut
still
more
lightly,
and
work with gentler strokes, at the same time holding up with the left hand the piece that you are cutting off, to prevent splintering
when
Having cut
inch
w^ide,
till
you
find
cut.
Wood - Working,
practice
for
27
the purpose,
length
of
your board
to less
than 45^^
The squareness
by applying the
wooden part first against the edge of the -board, and then against the The former test will show Avhether you face. have cut square across the board, and the latic^r whether you have cut square through.
Shrinking,
Checking,
and Warping
of
Timber.
WE
stand
begins
was cracked
this
if
it is
We
can underto
is
timber after
growing
to
its
pores
is
mostly water.
evaporate,
and
the
wood
in
shrinks.
all
You
will
have no
difficulty
finding,
this shrinking.
Flooring-
panels
fit
of doors,
bottoms of drawers,
put in place,
all
which
well
when
first
leave
which were
all
same
in
stick,
all
well
now
The
shrinking
28
of
timber,
you
will
find,
Wood - Working,
takes place
length.
2^
only in
the width,
not
in
the
Examine
is
that
it
When two
beginning.
boards
the joint
as
close
in
the
This fact
very
striking,
and
should
be
remembered.
endless
causes
trouble
carpentry,
cabinet-work,
and building, and it cannot be entirely prevented; but, by taking advantage of the fact
just
mentioned,
it
can often
be
prevented
study some
When
parts
all
with equal
pieces
equally in
in
large
all parts,
and keeps
drying
shape
but
the
goes
on
in
more
inside,
rapidly
on the outside
causes
than on the
changes
and
this
important
the
shall
We
will
be sufficient
to
facts.
30
Manual Training.
which begin on the
These
ends of the
rapid,
log,
where the
are
is
most
and
they
the cracks
which
we
if
have already noticed in our boards. Secondly, when timber has been cut up,
by any
side
means
one
side
as
of a piece
fast
is
pre-
as
another, the
which dries most rapidly, and therefore shrinks most rapidly, becomes hollow, or the
piece
'^
warps.''
Or, if one
side of a piece of
^^
dried or
that
seasoned''
swells
is
moisture,
side
and
becomes convex, and again the piece warps. Verify these statements by experiment, laying
several
pieces
of
inches
and of about the same length on the ground for some hours, or even on your bench if they have not been very well seasoned, setting up others on their edge so that
wide
both sides
may
to the air,
and noting carefully the results after several hours. In the same manner, if wood has been already warped, it may be straightened by
exposing
it
Wood-lVorJcing.
31
of the
on the
as well
surface,
and particularly
at
the ends,
cut
as
log,
up
showing the cracks in the and the edges of the boards, and in the
into boards,
ends,
faces
of the outside
boards or
^^
slabs.''
The pupils
in
log.
and direction of these cracks boards cut from different parts of the
position
They should be made to observe how checking and warping continue after wood has been made up, if it is exposed, and how they
are prevented by painting or varnishing).
LiESSON^ VI.
Working
Sketches.
a box from the piece
exercise.
IT
is
proposed to
make
of
board
is
The box
may happen
for,
to
give
it,
but This
is
extremely important,
when an
size
object
wanted
less if
and shape.
The shape and dimensions of this box, as of any other piece of work, can be shown in a working drawing or a working sketch. The
former
''
name
is
made to scale,'^ and the latter to a drawing made with less care, and which may be drawn
freehand, and only approximately to scale.
the
latter
In
case
the
dimensions
are
marked
on the corresponding parts of the drawing, and can be read off; in the former they are ascertained by measuring carefully the dimen32
Wood - Working,
sions of the drawing,
33
'^
scale/'
be
under-
Here
is
a block of wood, of
first
make
is
a sketch
we have agreed to represent it, 5'' X Sy - 9'\ If we look directly at the front of the block, we see a rectangle 9^^ x 3^^\ which we indicate by drawing, freehand, a
rectangle
whose
sides
long
its
side
is
nearly
three
times as great as
writing
on these
call
This figure we
the Elevation, or the
Front Elevation.
If
we
j^^.
look
straight
g
5^\
10,
down on
block,
Ave
the
see
a rectangle
9'^ x
This
we
call
Fig.
and
From
if w^e
34
Manual
Training.
the block,
rect
to
man would
able
to
be
make
Sometimes,
in
liowever, there
are
details
the
figure
of
the
object
which these two drawings fail to show. Thus, if there were a round hole in the right-hand end, neither of these would show it. In such
case
a third
figure
is
is
End
if
Elevation.
This
we
get
we look
directly at the
end
of the object:
in
it
the case
of this block
would be
3^'^ x 5^\
another rectangle,
Fig.
11.
If Ave
hole,
wish
to
J^i^y. //.
show
and
the
we must
its
ascertain
exactly
size
position,
in
the
drawing.
If the
V^ in diameter,
and
Wood - Working.
placed
3''
35
faces
and
per-
we
indicate
this as in
haps a
before,
larger
to
so
as
be able
dimensions.
ever, does not
This,
how-
show how
Suppose
2'^
is.
we
Fvg.JZ,
find
it
to be
deep.
Looking at the front of the block again, you will understand that, if we could look into the block, the hole would appear as at a b, Fig. 13. As the lines at a 6 are, however, hidden " ^ by the ma^
~~
^ ^
Tt^.
the
in
ct
^ r"" >sj
terial of the
|"
block,
we^
will indicate
13,
manner the hole may be shown the plan. The three figures being now
same
together
as
brought
in
Fig.
14,
they give
size
and shape
36
Manual
block.
Training,
of the
the parts,
we
ing
will
call a ''Figured
It
is
Sketch''
or ''Workthat
Sketch."
not
necessary
the
drawn
toler-
"'
2"
1
"
Lcvcztion^.
9''
1 1
;^
J^lcvru,
1
"^'"
.'
it is
be exactly in true
though it is best to have them nearly so. Every dimension must be given in at least one of the drawings. If, for instance, the fig-
Wood 'Working
ure
3'^
37
workman
this
who should
sketch
try to
would not
the
End
is
Elevation.
dimension,
however, which
figure
9^'
another.
Thus the
the
though
the repetition
make
similar
In our next
lesson
we
Lessor TII.
Working Drawings.
IF,
instead of drawing the lines of our last
lesson freehand,
of the object
lines
on the drawing,
care,
with
and
we make them
rule
all
the
bear
Ficf> 15,
sent,
1Z3^56*/8
SoaZe
'
I
o_fj7iches.
I
.
'
we have
38
^^
Drawing
as
to
Scale,''
or
'^Working
Drawing,''
in
Fig.
15,
which
Wood - Working,
39
The
scale, or ratio
must be indicated on the drawing. This may be done in either of three ways. Suppose, for instance, the lines of the drawing
the object
to
on the drawing
"
Scale \
may
write
''
Scale
y' =
V'
'\
or
Scale
3^^
= V
'\
Or thirdly, we may draw a straight line of any convenient length, divide it into parts,
of Avhich
each
represents
one
inch on the
meter),
1,
2,
3,
etc.
is
In the case in
^,
scale
each
must be actually one quarter of an inch long. If the drawing had been made to a smaller scale, as ^^2 ^^^ instance, which might
be written
^^
W'\
or " V'
r"
the
spaces
inch long,
of the
would have been each one and would have represented each
object.
In Fig. 15
all
three
are
modes
of
representing the
scale
shown.
40
Manual
Training,
The
the
scale
must be
to
workman
in
Thus,
size
the
last
figure,
determine
the
of the
workman
would measure with the compasses its diameFinding this to be one ter on the drawing. quarter of an inch, he would know that the diameter of the hole was to be one inch.
Next, to determine Avhere to place the hole,
he would measure the distances on the drawing from two sides of the end elevation, and
finding these distances to be each one quarter
of an inch, he would
to be
know
and therefore the center of the hole one inch and a half from each of If the scale had been much these faces. smaller, say lV'''^l'^ it would have been difficult to measure exactly the dimensions on the drawing, and therefore difficult to determine exactly the dimensions of the object. When an object is large, or contains many
faces of the block,
details,
it
may
be
impossible
to
to
make
the
scale large
enough
show
all
the details in
Wood - Working.
such a way that the
41
workman can
get their
It is
then
W-EmlJEUvaZiow %'
JF-Cg. 16^
J^U TV,
In addition to the two elevations, plan, and
drawings of
sometimes need-
^'sections,''
You
will
now
be able to understand
42
Manual
Fig.
Training.
working sketch,
16,
of the
box which
make. The front elevation shows that the box is 13^'^ long and 6'^ high, and the end elevation, or the plan, shows that
we propose
to
it
is
%^" wide.
The dotted
show that the front and back pieces are fastened on over the ends of the end The same fact may be learned from pieces. an inspection of the end elevation and plan. The figure \" shows that the wood used is f ^^ thick. As there may be a doubt whether the figures 12^' and 8^^ in the two elevations are
elevation
the
inside
or the outside
measurements
of
the box,
it
is
best to
remove
be
this
ambiguity
in
in the following
indicates
way.
any
dimension
the
the line
Wood - Working,
to
43
which
it
belongs,
means that the inside length 12 inches, and Fig. 18, means
that the
outside
length
there
is
12 inches.
In
working
drawing
this.
would
be
no such
ambiguity as
Lessox YIII.
Making a Nailed Box.
Laying
out
the
VV^ork.
TAKING
that
16,
we
see
we
of f inch stuff 6'^ x 8^^ for the ends, and two pieces 6^^x13^^^ for the front and back. Later
we
will
shall
9J'^
x 13^^^
for
we
to
them
out
of
consideration,
our work.
Take the piece of board used in Lesson IV. If the work of that lesson was well done, the piece is now square on one end, and a little
longer than
is
Furthermore,
If
if
without warping.
make
of
less
it
so
with
the
possible
if
it
waste
get
material,
remembering
that,
you
it
than
will be spoiled.
Wood - Working,
Now, with your
the squared
board.
end,
rule, lay off 8 inches
45
from
the
along the
best
edge
of
Mark
this edge
the
this
from which you will work. Place wooden handle of your square against edge, and draw a pencil-mark square
exactly 8
inches
from the
off
squared end.
cut
one
off;
but
tions of one
^'
kind
all
at once,
and we
will therefore
lay out
''
commencing
pencil-line
to cut
If
draw
another
just 8 inches
to
from the
pieces,
first,
amount
;
Laying out a
^o^-
sions this
very considerable,
and it should, therefore, never be neglected. Allowance must always be made for the waste'' of a saw in cutting to a mark. As
^^
46
Manual
Training.
you do not know yet how much you niay, after having marked
just outside of the
this waste
is,
off
your
first
close to
it,
little
inch,
pencil
and square,
to
it
the
first,
and
so
near
marks just contain the cut between them, and no more, as in Fig. 19. From these you can learn, by measuring
that the two
Fva 19
or by observing carefully
^^^ distance
between them,
and
remembering,
Avill
how much
be
able
to
this waste
the
saw wastes.
the
You
soon
for
make
proper allowance
by the eye Avithout measuring. Now lay off 8 inches from the second mark, draw a third mark and a fourth parallel
Then
off
mark
again
inches
and
mark
the
waste
again,
and
Wood - WorJcing,
the
47
work is completely laid out. Your piece of wood will now be marked as in Fig. 20, are the ends, 3 and 4 in which 1 and 2 are the front and back, and 5 is the waste.
^zy. ^.
marks
eye.
for
your saw-cuts,
allowance
for
necessary
waste
by
the
you
must be
to
careful
to
apply
of
the
square
board,
always
the
same edge
this
your
distinguishing
out,
is
edge,
as
already pointed
by a cross or other mark. Indeed, this an important principle in all laying out of
work.
opposite
The reason
edges
are
of
it
is
that,
unless
the
parallel,
lines
drawn
perpendicular to
not be parallel
to
the
same
will
edge,
edge
is
straight,
always
parallel.
Try
this
48
Manual
waste-piece,
Training.
with your
if
possible,
at
free
from
knots
and
the
particularly
will
have to be driven.
boundary between 3 and 4 for instance, you must try to throw the knot out, by shifting 4 to the right, and making the waste piece fall in the middle, where the knot is.
at the
Now
Exercise
place
7,
the
board
in
the vise, as in
and cut off the four pieces, being very careful to keep the saw between the double marks, to cut square, and to go gently towards the end of the cut, so as to avoid
splintering.
When
and
two,
measured,
and
tested
with
the
square.
Lesson IX.
Hammer and
Nails.
Putting
the
first
a Box
Together.
using the hammer, INlearn to swing with
is
it
thing
to
a free
movement
of
the
and the second is to strike squarely with the whole face of the hammer rather Begin by striking a than with one edge. moderately hard blow on your piece of Avaste
wrist,
piece.
Examine
it
mark made.
that
You
will
probably find
you have not struck exercise io. Strike again, by the striking with squarely. hammer, side of the first mark, and examine the result, and so on, over the whole face of your piece of wood, or until you can strike hard and square. Take a dozen four-penny nails and examing
ine them.
(Note that
^^
four-penny
''
probably
49
Manual
Training,
etc.
parallel,
21,
6,
shown
^
the
side-elevation,
Fig.
while
Oy
the
in
a,
other
two
sides,
as
shown
act as a wedge,
and
Sn?
wood
if it is
weak.
Uin
[J
The wedge, therefore, must be made to act in the direction in which the wood is strongest, that is, as we learned in Lesson III.,
the
direction
of the
length
of the fibers.
Tv^.Zt
left
wood without splitting, drive it into your piece of waste wood f " from the end, till the point
Exercise
II.
on the other
it
Driving and
Now draw
claw
of
out
with
drawing a
nail,
the
the
hammer.
to
To
do
of
of the
hammer
head
of
to
lift
up
the
the
nail
catch
head
Wood - Working,
of
the
nail
rests
Avitli
the
claw,
and
while
the
hammer
up, swing
to
out.
raise
the
claw,
and
is
the
come
the
If
not
be
used to raise
bent.
hammer,
nail
will
Drive the
in
times,
same way and draw it several always from the end of the piece,
but always
in
the
first
position,
or
so
it
as
not to
Afterwards, drive
sev-
and observe that you will nearly always split the piece. Note well these tw^o positions. Observe that you can distinguish the one from the other by the shape of the head or by the way the nail feels between the fingers, and you should never hereafter split a piece of wood by carelessly driving a nail in the wrong way. Now, taking the long sides of your box, draw a light pencil-mark across each end, f^^ from the edge, and make on this exercise 12. line two dots, each an inch from Nailing a box. the end of the line, and a third half-way between them, for the places where the nails
distance from the end,
52
Manual
to
Training,
are
be driven^ as in
Fig.
22.
Drive six
nails nearly
through
at these places.
Then,
set-
it,
exactly
as it is to
go
to-
when
is
the box
put
^~^J
holding the long piece in the
let
gether,
being
careful, while
left
hand, to
the fore-finger
as to feel
and the
even.
of the
through
its
into
the
quite
end
piece,
but
do
not
drive
head
piece
down.
This will
now hold
nails
the
down
the
it
to the
of
nails
are
projecting
little,
so
that
may
be
easy to draw
them
if
necessary.
corner
may
be nailed in
"
home,'' that
till
the
Wood - Working,
hammer.
lay
53
fourth
corners
the
down on
holding
it
the
bench,
with
the
the
you did
the
nails with
same precautions as before. If the pieces have been properly cut and properly nailed, the box will now be square
at
all
its
corners,
the
diagonals will
it is set
be
of
when
the
corners will
will
rest
the sides
be
perpendicular
You
should
test
your work
as to these particulars
LESSON" X.
THERE
last
will
now no doubt
The
first
be two classes
will
be
smaller or
be
not
quite square at
the corners,
is,
or
set
they will
be " winding,''
surface
that
when
on a
will will
flat
bench they
to
will be
out of winding/'
for
'^
The
test
winding
several
important, and
may
bench
itself
be
made
in
ways.
We
cannot
may
to
may
small
show the
size,
defect.
second, and
more
common way
54
of
testing
an
object
of
is
moderate
Wood - WorJmig,
to
55
hold
it
up
before one
eye,
keeping
the
other
closed,
and
the
look
across
If
one
there
of the
hind
edge,
no
but if one end of the hind edge winding stands up above the front edge when the other end is exactly covered, the object is
winding.
is
When
the object
to detect
is
very
small
it
sometimes hard
way.
ated
"
may
be exagger-
and winding
or
made
sticks.''
perceptible
edges''
strips
of
wood with
Supsay
across
strips,
exercise
13.
pose
2//
two \'' 24
such
;
to
be
If
laid
your
box
at
winding be too small to be noticed when you look across the box itself, you may yet be able to detect it when it is exaggerated by these long sticks. In this way, even the winding in the edge of
opposite
ends.
the
a board
may
be detected.
tests
being applied, we
divided
into
suppose your
as
boxes
two
the
classes,
already described.
Those
of
56
Manual
class,
Training,
second
being
up,
perfect, or
nearly
so,
we
by furnishing them with bottoms of the same material, fastened, like the sides, with nails. These boxes, being all of the same size, might be piled up in a set
might
finish
or
^^nest,''
screws,
and used for the stowing of nails, glue, and other materials used in the
this,
shop.
Instead of doing
the
however, we will
apart,
set
take
boxes of
material
in
both
classes
and
of
use the
making another
boxes of better finish than these, and requiring the use of other tools and more practiced
hands.
splitting
hold
it
14.
by one
C)f
of
the
Exercise
the
D^
^^^
directly
on the
split
it,
the
side.
of
the
in
Striking
one corner and the other alternately, you will probably separate the box at tAvo corners, and
Wood - Working,
so take off
57
sides, after
which,
holding
operation
the
and
repeating the
as before,
with
the
same care
side.
you
other
by striking them on the points, and straighten them by striking them gently with the hammer on the convex side while holding not on the bench, them on a block of wood, as you would thus mar the bench. For the new box that we propose to make,
we
will
reduce a
little
the
thickness of our
finer surface
pieces of wood,
than
the
mill-dressed
that
they
received
from
the
planing-machine.
Your
difficulty,
of these
You
Avill
be ready, therefore,
IjEssois'
XI.
The Jack-Plane.
seen YOU havetends hatchet
how
to
the
knife
or
the
wood, and,
rather
if
than
outward,
of
splits
off
large
pieces,
The knife
from
iron "
this,
the
plane
is
prevented
and so, with this tool, work may be finished up very smooth. The plane-iron, as you see, is set in a block of wood through which it projects only a short distance, and as the block rests on the surface of the wood, the iron cannot penetrate beyond this distance. If you set the plane down on the surface of a board, and press down on it, the iron will cut into the wood until the block comes in contact with the board, and then it can go If now we push the plane no further. forward, the edge of the iron moves say from a to 6, Fig. 23 but, instead of following
doing
;
58
Wood - Working,
the grain, and
is
59
cutting
it
same distance below the surface. It thus lifts up the thin shaving," bending it upwards as it layer or
forced
to
remain
the
''
Fig^^ ^^^
it
The
tool
thus described
the
When we
the iron
itself
is
cannot penetrate
possible
that,
far
into
the
wood,
of the
iron,
it
still
once commenced,
the wood.
may
stop
run
case,
some distance
the
into
In this
strong
or,
splinter
torn
off,
up
may
leave
the
plane,
surface.
breaking
may
a
rough
or
To prevent
is
this
second iron
secured
"cap"
with
introduced, thus
iron.
double
The cap
to
60
Manual
cutting
iron
Training,
by a screw as in Fig. 24, and the two are put together into the block,
the
and
held
in
place
by a
examining the plane on your bench. Figures 23 and 24 should be carefully compared with your plane, by way of furunderstand
on
-F^y. ^^.
ther illustration
principles
of
the
of
mechanical
With
the
iron,
this
instrument
a
it
is
impossible
for
slide far
up the
and
the
cause
deep
is
split
in
the wood,
because
shaving
and bent forward. If the cap is thick enough, and set near enough to the edge of the cutting-iron, it will bend the shaving so abruptly as to break it. As long as the shaving was a strong stick or splinter,
iron or cap
as at
a,
b,
Fig.
25, the
forward
to
lift
movement
this
of
stick
up
split
without
breaking
it,
and
extend
the
Wood - Worlcing.
61
down
at
c
into the
is
wood;
but
when
the
end of
off,
the splinter
d,
as
the
cutting-iron cuts
partly through
up a longer
off,
splinter,
which
e f.
is
again broken
and
^'
so
on^
till
a thin
shaving," as ^t
shav-
62
Manual
taken
it is
Training.
ings
off
by such
or
plane,
you
find
that
cracked
broken across
it
is
at equal
short
distances.
Thus
so
much weaklift
it
up
into
split
down
With
the
this partial
of the plane
way
of
several
of
sharpening
them
for different
later.
For your
called
^^
jack-plane
coarse
will
be
used.
It
is
designed
for
cutting off
of material.
As
edge
it
is
intended
cap
is
to
set
cut
pretty
thick
shavings,
the
of
well
back
from
the
the cutting-iron
is
(^^ to
i\^0, the
cutting-iron
allowed to project
considerably
is
from
the
will
block,
notice,
farther,
and
so
its
edge
the
curved,
of
as
it
you
that
middle
cuts
has.
projects
and therefore
deeper
than the
already
corners.
Your jack-plane
been
Wood - Working.
sharpened and adjusted
for the
is
;
63
kind of work
will be well,
intended to plane
but
it
To make the
exercise as
not winding.
You
stop
or
bench-hook/' to
are
that
you
planing
Examine
Observe
fastened
how
in
it
is
raised
and
lowered,
and
that
little
it
less
of
the
piece
you are going to plane. If your bench has a wooden bench-pin instead of the bench-hook the mode of adjusting this is obvious. Lay your piece of wood on the bench, with the end against the bench-hook. Hold the plane by the handle with the right hand. Take hold of the front of the
that
plane
with the
side
left
hand,
the
thumb being
and
the
on
the
nearest
your
side.
body,
fingers
on
the
other
64
Manual
Training,
left
however,
adjusted
this.
the
plane
15.
is
it
sharp and
will
^^
Exercise
take
t^^^
hold
^^^^^
without
AoQ^.
Use
of the
j^^*
In this
Jack-plane,
from end to end of the piece, trying to take off a shaving the whole length. If the first shaving is taken from the left-hand edge, let
the next be just to the right of
on,
till
this,
and
so
you have gone over the entire breadth of the piece, not missing any portion of the
surface.
You
Avill
of course have
to
change
plane
time to time,
the
is
that the
portion on
which
working
During the first part of the stroke press down most with the left hand, to prevent the rear end of the plane from dropping, and so cutting off* too much of the rear end
1.
of the piece.
2.
Wood - Working.
65
front
from
falling.
two points
be neglected, the
planed,
piece
will
present,
when
the
appearance
J
shown
3.
in
Fig. 26
a straight-edge
laid
upon
Do
happens to work
plane away the
easily
you
obliged,
of
Do
work
a
c
''
against
as
the
grain,"
that
(/,
is,
in
such
or
direction
to
from a to
Fig.
25,
from
in
the
same
is
figure.
torn
some
distance
off,
down
into
result
the
is
cut
and the
leaving
at
the
other,
the
surface
66
Manual
exaggerated, to
Training.
is
effect.
and bends
it
up,
makes
which runs outward, across the shaving, instead of inward into the piece, and thus
As the grain
parts
often
runs
piece
will
differently
(as
it
in
different
of
the
it
does, for
be
necessary,
in
to
such
time,
cases,
to
turn
the piece
from time
parts.
as
is
you work
not
best
on
in
different
While
it
work against the grain, it is often allowable, and even preferable, to do so when a considerable thickness of wood is
general
to
to
be removed, as
the
too
the grain
than with
will
In this case
also,
however,
desired
to turn
5.
it
be necessary,
of
when nearly
the
off,
amount
the
piece,
Work,
and whenever
with
the
Wood - Working.
plane as with
strokes.
67
long,
steady
the
When you
is
obliged to
turn
piece
frequently,
practiced on the
extra
piece
of
wood,
you may now plane up one surface of each of your pieces with the jack-plane, provided if any surface is the surface is not winding winding we Avill reserve its treatment for another exercise. When you have done this, you will find that the marks made by the saw (^^ saw-kerfs they are called), as well as any stains or rough spots, have been removed; but the general surface, though clean, is now marked with a series of broad and shallow furrows or valleys separated by low ridges which are due to the curved form of the iron, and which will appear very conspicuous if you lay a straight-edge crosswise on your
:
^'
piece.
to
face smootho
Lesson XII.
The Smoothing-Plane.
TO
next
this
left
by the jack-plane
is
the
may
be
performed,
imperfectly,
with
shall
the
the
that
cutting-iron
it
so
not project so
as
through
is
the
block,
and
this
adjustment
fre-
the
purpose of adapting
crooked-grained wood,
Exercise
16.
it
may
If
be learned and
Practiced here.
you
strike the
Adjustment
of cuttingiron.
upper surface
hard
will
blows
be
with
the
hammer,
the
iron
the
will
wedge
careful
loosened
and
move up out
not
first
of the block.
strike
You must
you
be
to
too
hard, or
will,,
in the
and in
the
second place
loosen
the
wedge
Wood - Working.
69
and iron too much. By turning the plane sole from front up and looking down the how much the iron to rear you can see projects, and judge whether you have it right. If you get it back too far, you can drive it forward again to the right amount by gentle blows of the hammer on its upper edge. When you have it just right, you must drive
'' ''
for
which you
are
now
it.
exercise
come very
iron.
is
to
As the
curved,
to
it
Smoothing
with jackplane,
not
surface
be
of
possible
make
ones,
the
the
wood
as
by
shallower
and
to
make them
precaution,
as
possible.
With
this
go
have
already
planed
and make them as smooth as you can, remembering the warning concerning planing against the grain. The operation you have just performed can be better done, par-
70
Manual
on large
Training.
ticularly
surfaces,
called
the
fore-plane.
This
longer
and
which,
as
shown
in
Fig.
28,
6,
is
broader
a,
28,
and
straight,
except just at
It is easy
the corner.
properly
used,
is
capable of
making
plane.'' It is
in
o
FC^. 2S.
cc
o
\-j
b
tool
the
only
requiring a
more
will to
this
not
use
this
be
necessary
of
on
the
small
finish
pieces
exercise,
but we will
up these
This
pieces
is
with
the
smoothing-plane.
plane
usually
is
employed after the fore-plane. short and light, and specially adapted
It
for
Wood - Working,
71
making
(or
It is there-
the
jack-plane
to
when
the
used
small
as
pits
in
this
exercise)
result
remove
which
from the former plane's having worked, in some places, against the grain. Observing
the same precautions as with the
jack-plane,
exercise
is.
and
in
particular
reversing the
direction
of
your
xjse^oTthe smoothing-
plane, work as often as the grain of the wood requires it, go over your pieces
till
the ridges
left
all
surface
of
each
piece
made
with
quite
straight
and
smooth.
Test
this
the
straight-edge.
We
If
it
supposed, a
little
while
pieces
ago, that
the
surface of
one of your
so, it is
was
so
winding.
was not
the surfaces
Removing
winding,
Test
these
and pick
or
are
Avinding,
make one
one
so
from
corner.
to be the piece,
and
72
Manual
Training.
suppose that,
it
edge
hides
.
C towards
just
B, the end
stands
above
_,
i).
This
indicates
that some-
thing
has
D
either
to be
F-isf,29.
taken
C
it.
(7,
off
from
or
C,
the corner
Then, applying
take
first
D
D,
a short
then a
little
board
near
is
G now
as before
Avinding.
If
even
too
be
reversed,
appear
low
this
instead
result
You
piece
must avoid
get
first
by testing the
winding and then the other, and will plane your piece too thin before you get it true. Having at length made one surface of each of your pieces quite free from
one
Wood - Working.
winding
73
and perfectly straight and smooth, mark this with your pencil as the standard surface from which all the others are to be
formed.
Having
all
now
proper
finished
the
first
faces
of
your
the
to
thickness,
surfaces
must
be
made
parallel
the
first,
and smooth. The proper thickness is first to be marked round the edge of each piece If you have not wasted with the gauge.
material
in
making the
to
first
surface
true,
you ought
of
to be able
finish
up the
pieces
your
last
exercise
to
thickness of half
an inch.
Loosen the screw of your gauge, and, holding your rule in the left hand, set the gauge by it to half an inch, and
.
Exercise 20.
tighten
the
screw
rule,
moderately.
whether the
right.
^
^tauging.
gauge
or the
is
set
exactly
If not,
move
it
the necessary
amount by
of
striking
one end
other
the bench,
fasten
and when it is exactly right the head in position with the screw,
74
Manual
so
Training,
but not
tightly
us
tlie
to
bruise
the
handle
screw.
it
To mark
a piece, hold
in
the
left
hand
Place the
finished
head
side,
of
the
gauge
against
tlie
and push it from you along the edge of the piece from end to end, not with a series
of
short
jerks,
but
with
one
a
long,
steady
stroke.
The
to
on the edge
of
the
piece,
will
make
of
straight
piece.
mark
The
is
parallel
the
face
the
commonest
ing
it
gauge
to
the
It
of
jumps,
marking
deeply
in
some
and sometimes following the grain of the wood, and thus making a crooked mark, instead of being directed by the face of the piece and making To avoid this f\mlt proceed a straight mark. as follows When you set the head of the gauge against the side of the board, if you
places
at all,
:
hold
it
so that the
Wood - Working.
perpendicular to the edge of the board, as in
Fig. 30,
full
a,
it
its
length.
toj)
of the
6,
marking-point forward,
in Fig.
30,
the
corner
of
the
4)
OU
a less
depth or
all.
it
not at
Now,
first
hold
shall
at
JL\
J' ^.30.
only just
touch,
this
and in position
a
make
very light
mark
the
whole length
to
of the piece.
Then returning
deeper,
the begin-
point
may
and again mark the Avhole length of the piece, and so on until a It is sufficiently plain mark has been made. seldom necessary to make a deep mark. All
penetrate a
little
that
is
required
is
mark
that
can
be
76
Manual
and the
is
Training,
readily seen,
lightest
best.
mark
that will
serve this
purpose
this
Mark
your
in
way
the
four
edges
of all
pieces.
them down
Exercise
21.
marks,
to go
being
very
little
careful
not
If
even
Planing to
thickness,
^00
far.
mark
the
spoiled.
If the
faces
be
everywhere exactly half an inch thick. After planing the sides of your
Exercise 22. ^^^^
pieces,
vise,
not
to
cut
much
at either end.
and not
either
to
the
right
or
the
left.
first fault
jack-plane
used
as
a straight-edge,
and
for
In applying
the side
first
the square
finished
straight
always apply
it
to
and marked. One edge being finished and square, set the gauge to 5|
Wood - Working.
inches,
77
and mark
the
finished
this,
the
edge.
it is
pieces to
this
width
is
from
set so
When
it.
the gauge
wide as
to
more
control
^
the
gauge
if
exercise 23.
'.
when
so
wide open, ^
and
it
the ^
, Gauging and
will
jump
Havto
planing to width,
second edges
it.
down
the
mark,
Lesson XIII.
Back-savsT
and Bench-dog.
have been working on are
THE now
are
still
pieces yoii
They
are
marred, however,
by the nail-holes
in a former exercise.
They
than
and
smoother
the
ends than
we
ordinary
For
or
this
work we
saw is shorter and thinner than the one you have used before, and has more teeth to the inch.
back-saw''
^Henon-saw.''
This
^^
set
'^
Examine the two saws carefully, and compare The back-saw them in these particulars. being thinner than other saws is more likely to bend. To prevent bending it is provided with a stiflF back, which gives it its name.
as
as those
78
much
Wood - Working,
79
While this allows the saw to be made thinner, and therefore fits it for finer work, it limits,
of course, the depth of the
cut
that
still
can be
smaller,
made
3^ou
Avith
it.
back-saw
thinner,
and finer than the tenon-saw that have, and with no set to its teeth, is
a
^^
called
dove-tail
''
saw.
In
working
the
with
case
small
a
back-saws,
it
is
generally
that
number
of
pieces
Too much
if
is
not neces-
on your bench^ and which is shown, in elevation and plan, in Fig. 31. Lay the dog on your bench,
on the
bench-dog
'^
which you
find
one of the
piece that
resting
cross-strips being
downward and
rest-
to
against the
end that is to be cut off projecting a little beyond the right-hand edge of the dog, you can easily hold it with the left hand, and
cut
off"
the
piece
required.
In the
case
of
80
Manual
pieces
Training,
the
you have been using we will cut Half an off enough to remove the nail-holes. inch at each end of the long pieces will suffice
for
this.
^
k
>x
/f'L
3"
Ft^. 3J
11 J
inches,
and,
of
to
keep
to
nearly
the
as
same
before,
proportion
length
off f of
pieces,
breadth
we
of
will take
the
short
them
to
7i
inches.
Wood - Worhing.
Having
ing
witli
all
made
the
necessary pencil-marks
with the square, as in Lesson VIII., rememberthe cautions there given as to working
and side, allowing for the waste of the saw, and so on, you will proceed to cut off the narrow pieces from the ends, making first a few trial cuts on another piece, to get the
necessary steadiness of hand.
In cutting with
exercise 24.
edge nearly
parallel
to
let
surface of the
tip of the
piece,
but
saw drop a
little
so as to
Remember
first,
the injunctions
to
cut
slowly at
to keep the to
and
cut
saw upright, not to force it, gently when the saw is nearly
through.
you have carried the pencilmarks all round the pieces, there will always be one of the marks on the faces and one of those on the edges in view to guide you. The pieces being now, if your work has been
If
alike
in
pairs,
are
ready
will
much
better finish
made with
nails.
We
82
Manual
it
Training,
put
togotlier
with
''
dove-tail
it
"
joints
but
will
be necessary
some
Two
other pieces
may
up for tlie top and bottom. You may determine the proper size for these, and lay them out and get them ready yourself. In cutting out these pieces you will have to saw lengthwise of the grain, and will use
the
'^
rip-saw
''
for
this
purpose.
You
will
observe that
this
has
larger
teeth than
the
and
that the
is
smaller.
little
On
you
ac-
considering a
h
will
see
that
are
these
in
Vvv^vV^V^^
^
differences
VVVVVVW
e
different
strength
of
wood
edge
in
different di-
TtaSZ, ^9
the rip-saw, at
a.
rections.
The
cut
lower
of
of the tooth
Fig. 32,
has to
across
the
fibers,
The
Wood - Working,
front
83
a
is
has only to
blunt.
is
out,
and
cuts
therefore
cross-cut
saw,
it
d that
across
the
grain,
sharp,
and the
c.
pieces
point
cut
falls
is
to
it
the
will
work
best
when
on them not quite perpendicularly, but obliquely, which is the reason why c cZ is not
perpendicular to the edge of the saw, as a
6
is.
On
best
of the
when driven
/) E, therefore. Fig.
84
Manual
Training,
together
the
parts
''
that
''
are
already
cut,
resist
causing them to
its
pinch
a
the
saw and
is
motion.
The remedy
such
as
for this
to insert
wedge,
chisel,
screw-driver,
or a piece of wood, in
Towards the
taken
board.
that
end
this
of
must be
split
wedge
are
does
not
be
the
The
six
pieces
now
to
is
put away
being learned,
by which time they will be thoroughly seaThey must be set up on edge with a soned. space of at least an inch betAveen them for
circulation of
air,
so that they
may
not warp.
You may mark on each piece its exact dimensions, and note, when you take it up again, how much it has shrunk in each direction.
LiESSOis^
XIY.
The
Chisel.
OBSERVE
and
flat.
your bench.
Its
back
is
perfectly straight
makes with its back an angle of twenty-five degrees, and just at the edge is a short face which makes with the back a somewhat larger angle, namely, 35.
face
This form
ing
till
is
way
the
First,
is
face
B, Fig. 34,
formed, making
A^----^
~\
near
J)^^-^^
r
^7-
^ is rubbed
on the
stone,
oil-
o/
in
presently,
face
is
exaggerated in
the
figure, to
make
85
it
86
Manual
;
Training,
clear
is
it
should be
If
less
it
you examine the chisel on your bench, which is in good condition, you easily detect on D B the scratches made by the grindstone, wdiile A D, which was finished on the fine-grained oil-stone, is smooth and bright, and the edge at A is very keen. This is the condition in which the chisel and all similar
there shown.
cutting
tools
should
is
be
constantly
kept.
fine
When
the tool
dull
you cannot do
work with it; and, moreover, in trying to force it you are very apt to make it slip and cut yourself, so that a dull tool is really more dangerous than a sharp one. The chisel and the plane have the same form of cutting edge and require the same
treatment.
the
size
of
the
cutting
It will
is
angle,
and some
other
parif
it
ticulars.
the tool
to
be used
on hard material,
its
must be
"
stronger, to
''
prevent
breaking or
on the edge, and therefore the angle must be larger. As we become acquainted with various tools for cutting wood and metals
nicking
Wood - Working.
87
we
ent values,
reaching
even
to
90
in
some
work
to
is
it
work
We
whitewood with a rough or crooked edge, which we will make straight and smooth as in Exercise 4, but with the chisel instead of the knife. We will cut from a li'^ or 1^ plank a piece 9 inches long, and will split from this, with the hatchet,
pieces about
2'^
wide.
We
the
us
some
difficulty
grain.
Holding one of these pieces in the vise, with one of the crooked edges upward, take the end of the handle of the chisel in the
hollow of the right hand, the thumb and
first
88
Manual
Training.
finger
other
it.
Exercise 25.
Paring with
chisei.
of the chisel
flat
(not
on the surhold
left
it
the
wood, and
hand
will
as
is
Pushing the
off*
chisel forward
now
cut
much
to
removed, as in Fig.
4,
be
scored
and
split,
knife
or
is
the
hatchet.)
operation
of
is
paring
when
can
it
is
moderately
with the
along the
crooked, provided
grain
:
you
work
it
is
of the plane,
its
you
working now
it
now
against
in
quick
will be
Wood - Working.
a sliding rather than a
89
pushing movement,
along
in the
Thus,
if
shown
edge,
shown
moves
g, etc., c
it
from right to
will
work
c,
against the
e,
and with the grain over the spaces a 6, e /, etc. It will be found best, then, as
d,
is
work
I
on the work,
and
in
moving the
chisel,
not only
90
Manual
push
it
it,
Training,
to
in
tlio
a,
but
same time, a sliding motion towards the right or loft. The tirst movement alone would make the chisel come out
to give
at the
at
the
second
would bring
it
out at P;
This sliding
With it Avood can be pared smooth which would be quite unmanageable Avithout it. The reason of this can now be easily understood. The edge of a knife, chisel, or plane, however keenly it is sharpened, is ahvays more or less jagged like a saw. On some tools you can feel the inequalities or teeth with the finger, and even
pains to get
of
it.
command
Wood - Working,
when, as
not
feel
91
in a
well-sharpened
razor,
you canunder
a
them, you
can
the
see
them
microscope.
When
tool
movement
while, if
itself
off,
forces
between
as
wedge,
and
splits
grain.
Paying attention to the points just menmay now, drawing a straight tioned, you line on your piece of wood about a quarter of an inch back from the edge, pare the edge down to the mark, making it straight, square, and smooth. Test your work carefully with respect to all these requirements, and do not be satisfied till you have produced a really good result. When you have worked with the chisel or other cutting tool some time, it becomes dull, and does not cut well. If you examine its cutting edge you will find that instead of
being quite invisible, as
visible
as a bright
it
was
at
first,
it
is
Under
a glass
it
92
Manila I
Training.
would appear as at a, Fig. 38, rather than as The keen edge must be restored by at h. sharpening on the oil-stone. A plane-iron and a chisel are Exercise 26. sharpened in the same way, and Sharpening a chisel. it is of the utmost importance that this should be done properly. Having
put a few drops
cc
of
oil
on
take
the
the
stone,
j^
^^.^^
Fi.g.SS.
hand, place
the
beveled
face
on
the
press
stone
it
and
down
left
first
hand held
place the
face
At
a.
touches
right
Then
raise
the
hand a
so
that
h.
:
Be
it is
not to
If the
only necessary
the
large bevel.
hand is raised too high, the edge will be worn away too much, and the angle of the
Wood - Working,
chisel will be too large.
93
way
be
of holding
has
become habitual,
may
a^
noted
that
the
height
of
the
end of the
and handle.
the
chisel
is
Thus,
10
if
the
entire
length
of
inches,
the
middle of
the
circular
above
end of the handle should be 6 inches the stone. In rubbing the tool on
the
the stone,
hand must be pushed to and fro parallel to the stone, not rising and falling a little, which would make the edge of the
tool round.
If
the
it
chisel
has
not been
neglected
it
too
long
much
94
It is
Manual Training.
only necessary to remove the roundness
just described.
will begin
When
this
is
to turn
up a
little
on the back,
This wireflat
making
edge
is
shown, exaggerated, in
^_
/
J^ly.^O.
few
light
strokes.
It
this
must not be
operation,
at
all
tipped
up during
and
the
or the
spoiled.
or twice,
The operations being repeated once more and more lightly, a fine keen
tool, it
will
it
be found
frequently.
much
If this
to
sharpen
done,
it
will
require only
a slight
of
tool
thus kept in
When
often
the
tool
has
bevel
been
near
sharpened
the
very
be-
the
short
edge
is
comes
wide,
and
much
work
then
Wood - Working,
required
to
95
sharpen
be
it
on the
oil-stone.
It
ground on the grind-stone. the smaller long bevel, which makes angle with the back {D B, Fig. 34) is to be held on the stone, until it is ground away so
must The
then
far that
it
To hold the
tool
inclination.
To keep plenty of water on the stone, Heat would so as not to heat the tool. soften and spoil it. 3. To turn the stone towards the chisel,
2.
particularly
near the
end
chisel
of
the
grinding.
a
Turning
^^
it
from the
to
let
will
turn up
Never
the back
of the tool.
When
the bevel
B, Fig.
34,
has
been
which will make the latter rough, a moderate rubbing on the oilstone will give it a smooth, keen edge. Having now pared one edge of your piece of wood straight and smooth, each of you may exchange pieces with his next
carried out to the edge,
96
Manual
and
edge.
Train/i/ng,
neighbor,
opposite
repeat
tlie
operation
is
on
the
for
This
exchange
made
the
to
purpose of giving
examine and the two kinds of wood that have been distributed through the class. The pine is called Avhite-pine. It is soft of the kind and straight-grained, and planes to a smooth, glossy surface if the piece is a good one. The tree is a fine evergreen which grows to a height of one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet in the woods of the Northern States and Canada, and sometimes has a trunk six feet in diameter. Its leaves are long slender needles '( ^^g- ^1)? growing
FvaAt
in
groups
of
five,
each
group
find
making,
small
if
together, a
comspeci-
cylinder.
You
tree
can
in
mens
of
the
woods
and
parks
Wood - Working.
almost
to
97
everywhere,
seen
but
in
the
large
ones
are
be
only
the
are
wild
Northern
scarce.
woods,
It
is
and
even
there
its
getting
of
very different in
mode
of
its
growth,
the
the
shape
and
the
grouping
its
leaves,
tlie
and
character of
wood
from
yellow-
pine and
pitch-pine,
and
shop
their
and
uses.
elsewhere,
to
make
is
quainted
the
with
these
different
and
of
the
wood
large,
hand-
some
with
42.
It
with
not
that
fine
straight
leaves,
trunk,
as
and
Fig.
curious,
is
square-cut
in
an
is,
evergreen,
it
but a deciduleaves
in the
ous tree;
fall.
loses
its
It bears, in
yellow
Its
flower,
as
from
which
see,
is
is
it
is
named.
but
wood,
you
It
not
white,
greenish-yellow.
free
very
straight-grained,
easily
from
is
knots,
soft
and
worked,
and
in
much
used
in
house-carpentry, and
furniture
and pattern-making.
98
Manual
Training.
IjEsso:n"
XV.
Continued.
The
Cliisel
WHEN
the
greater
handle
is
held
of
it
in
the
closed
right
standing out a
side,
little
on
of
thumb
the
and the
towards
of
flat side
the
chisel
being
turned
the
the
body.
the
Leaning
shoulder
the tool
over
work and
handle
bringing
the the
against
is
chisel,
forced
downward
the
by
press-
In
this
case,
also,
movement makes the tool cut easier. As an exercise in this method of using
chisel,
the
last
^'
Exercise 27.
may
"
be
'^
chamfered
edge.
or
Chamfering end-wood,
out, as
bevclcd
ou
the
work
Fig.
in
The marked
The
elevation,
plan,
piece.
100
Manual
Training.
line
F E
is
to
(7
is
to be
J?
r-"
c
distance
E F
A
is;
A B
the
may
be ruled
The
is
line
B, being on
visible in the
is
plan
dotted
C D, being on
elevation,
the
back,
dotted
on the
and
for
a like
reason,
is
end elevation. Holding the piece in the left-hand, by one end, rest the edge, at the other end, on a clean piece of
in the right-hand
on the bench. The bench may have dust on it, which would dull the chisel; and besides, chiseling on the bench destroys
wood,
the smooth
surface
not
that
it
ought always to
Wood - Working.
have.
that
is
101
The
to
be
beveled
turned
from
you
you
are cutting.
Fig. 44,
down
off a
i^'
and cut
small
\
Fiq.^^,
chip.
setting
little,
Then
it
back a
to
as at
6,
and
so on.
As the
harder
will
Do
not
forget, particularly
when making
easier
if,
that
it
will
work
chisel in
the direction
you
also
slide it
in the direction
A.
and
with
keen
chisel, so
leave the
and smooth.
side of
After
chamfering one
the
the end
side
A,
the
other
of
same end, working the end to a sharp edge. Then chamfer the other two edges of the same end, working it to a point. As the
102
Manual
of
Training,
quantity
part
wood
to
is
be
removed
the
in
this
of the
easier,
exercise
less,
chisel
will
work
in
the piece
your
vise,
the end
to
be
beveled
bench, so
projecting
only a
little
above the
chisel being
as to be firm,
and the
25.
managed
as in
Exercise
Finally,
make
\,
a drawing
in plan, elevation,
and end
elevation of the
Wh^n
difficult.
it
is
more
In
be cut
and particularly when the piece to is so situated that the sliding movewell be used, a mallet
is
ment cannot
drive
used to
chisel
is
the
chisel.
left
In
this
case
the
held in
the
to
hand, nearly
or quite
per-
pendicular
but
The ham-
and
When
the position
of the
cut
will
allow
it,
Wood - Working,
103
may
saw,
be
removed by the
brace
and
bit,
or
may
be
to
made with
use
the
beginning
^^^^^,3^ 28.
^^^^^'
the
a
''
The next
plan,
exercise,
illus^
through-mortise,''
will
trate
cise,
the
first
an
''
end
is
dove-tail,''
working sketch of one form of a ''mortise and tenon" joint. A and ^ are
Figure 45
a
A
1
"I
1
K
1
^cnv
1
n
T
^crrv.
^
/^crrv.
cv
4
J^t^^
7^
^
J)
^S
C and
are
of
the
tenon.
No end
elevations
needed.
The
centimeters,
104
Manual
is,
Training,
that
may
as
is
centimeter
(0'^39),
little
less
than
half
an
inch
meter
being a
little
more
than
a yard
feet).
An
that,
examination of
when
E
or
in
and
"
are cut
out,
tenon, '^
will, if
properly
G,
closely
the
hole or
mortise
and the
togethef^ perpen-
To make
be
this
joint, the
pieces
planed
First
up
exactly
square
must and to
if
first
the
true dimensions.
sary.
neces-
Next plane one adjacent surface on each piece true, and pertrue
and mark
to
pendicular
the
square.
the
first
surface, testing
with
the
Next,
mark
the
pieces
to
measuring
piece should
from
these finished
surfaces,
and
now
and the
pieces
Set
the
smoothing-
Wood - Working.
plane
off
105
the
to
surfaces,
talking
make
joint,
the surfaces
smooth.
Now mark
lines
ful
a,
b,
c,
out
the
drawing
deep
the
d with
the
gauge,
too
being care-
not
to
mark
too
them
far,
nor
to
and draw the other lines with the square and a sharp lead-penBoth sides of the pieces must be cil. marked, and also the end of the tenonextend
piece,
them
C
use
D.
out
the
the
brace,
To
first
cut
wood
with a center-bit
millimeter
a
or of of
four
the
mortise
(a
is
tenth
a centimeter, or a thousandth of
is
a meter,
and
rule)
the
smallest division
on your metric
the
center-bit
Notice
the
way
in
which
The revolving knife-point or " cutter" first makes a circular cut, exercise 29. and then the revolving chisel, Boring with
works.
following
chip.
If
the
the
it
knife,
removes
is
center-bit.
cutter
will
not
sharp
a
on
the
cut.
front
edge
not
make
cleau
J 06
Mamial
it is
Training.
If
too short,
the
chisel will
cut before
for
it,
way
and
the
circle.
Hence,
with
though
a
file
must be
the
sharpened
edge,
when
necessary,
and
is
if
the outside
edge
filed
and
is
if
the cutter
made
spoiled.
With the
through
mortise.
It
center-bit
a hole
is
to
be bored
of
the
piece
is
near
each
that
end
the
necessary
quite
this
hole
or
it
should
will
cut.
go
through
squarely,
cut
away wood
other
to be
first
A
the
of
few experiments
may
be
made
or
on
end
of
the
piece,
on
piece
waste
wood.
Mark
point
near
the
end, as
at
P, Fig.
46,
and
then
with
Wood - Working.
opposite
J\
107
Hold
the
piece
in
the
vise,
the
end
the
standing
up
the
above
the bench.
Place
handle of
breast, set
the point of
the
bit
perpendicular
bore
brace.
the
surface,
and
the
soft,
begin
of
to
the
No hard
needed,
if
pressure
on
is
brace
as
will
be
the
wood
P"^,
When
aside,
you
holding
have
bored
of
about
stand
the end
altering
hand
side,
without
both
it
position,
and
the
examine,
face
from
is
above
If
and
is
from
whether
of
the
block.
not,
make
as
if
it
so
and go
of
on.
before
boring
the
at
or twice
the
it
point
begins
to
show,
or
comes out
one
or
pretty
the
marked
point,
within
two
millimeters,
you
have
to
as the
bored
the
well
and
may
venture
bore
mortise.
As soon
side,
point
makes
its
block and
the vise,
or clamp another
108
Mamial
Training,
that.
Unless
you
it
other of
the
first
these
precautions
will
splinter
wood
a
when
series
comes through.
been
holes
bored,
as
The
in
the
Figure,
may
be
each other,
The mortise
its
now
the
to
be
Avith
trimmed
the
a
piece
to
exact
size
and
on
the
shape
block
chisel.
To do
clean
this,
lay
on
set
of
wood
bench,
the
chisel
little
it
end
by a smart stroke of the mallet. Pare away the wood at the the mortise with a wide chisel sides of drive the narrow chisel in again, and so on
drive
in
till
mark, and
the
mortise
is
cut
about
piece
half-way
over
other
is
through.
cut
in
little
Then
the same
turn
the
and
side.
way from
pared
the
A
to
left,
which
now
the
in
be very
off,
holding
chisel
against
Wood - Working,
the previous lesson, and
109
not to cut
also
beyond
be
sides
should
of
continued
in
through
from opposite
sides
succession.
if
The four
finished,
to
the
mortise,
will
faces,
now
and
be
smooth,
perpendicular
pairs, to
the
parallel, in
is
each other.
The tenon
saw.''
to
This
is,
as
you have
than
if skill-
handled will leave the surfaces smooth enough without the use of the chisel. To avoid
the
risk,
it
however,
too
small,
considerable
to
with the
chisel.^
If the mortise
cut,
they will
and tenon have been properly now fit closely together. The
tight.
If
it
does,
it
If
it
management
grain
are
saw
the
the
given
in
may
be noticed here.
110
Manual
Training,
must be withdrawn. The bruises on the surfaces will show where it fits too tight, and either it or the mortise must be pared down carefully till a good
gentle blows of the mallet,
it
fit
is
obtained.
liESSOis^
XVT.
End.
Dove -Tail.
two pieces that were put together in your last lesson can be pulled apart in one direction. The piece A, Fig. 47, can be drawn out from B towards the right, but the part o{ B which
projects above
THE
in
1
Fi^.^7.
ing removed by a
pull upward, or in
If we wish-
however, to get
of the
as
rid
projecting piece
have a smooth corner, we should lose this advantage, and unless the tenon were narrowed, A would not be able to resist either
so
to
force
upward
111
force,
but would
yield
in
either
direction.
If
we
112
Manual
T)^aining.
held
fast so that
it
can
we must
is
shape.
This shape
its
the
''dove-tail,"
from
is
resemblance
48.
if
dove. Fig!
It
evident that
the
is
A
2r,.
>
.o
dove-tailed
fitted
piece
into
hole
it
of
can-
the
arrow.
With
which
this
explanation
you
now
and
Fig. 49, in
and
represent the
plan
elevation
of the
mortise-piece,
and
those
and
The
planed
tAvo
pieces
are
to
be
as
first
carefully
true
and
smooth
in
the
last
The work is then to End dove-tail, be laid out. The thickness of A B {1^^^) i^ to be marked with a sharp
exercise.
on the upper side shown at (7, then, by means of the square, on the front side D, and then, from these
pencil
on
C D,
first
Wood - Working.
two
sides,
sides.
113
with
In
the
square,
on
the
other
two
ness
the
is
of
right-hand
face
same manner, the thickto be marked, first on the of A B, then on the front
J?
^
^f'/z-
face
shown
at
5, and
then
from
these
on
lines
marking out the dove-tail are to be drawn on the upper face of 6^, then on the lower face, and then their ends are to be joined by lines drawn across the end of the
piece.
Lastly,
similar
inclined
lines
are
to
are
faces
to
be drawn
down
the
the
and
of
^ 5
to
cross-
114
Manual
Th^aining.
mark.
Mark with
a cross
x^
as in Fig.
54,
wood
that
are to be cut
cut,
away, and
before
beginning to
make
sure
marks are right. The lines are all to be drawn with a very sharp pencil, so that if you cut exactly up to the center
that your
of each
line,
tenon and
the
hollow or mortise
shall
fit
perfectly together.
portions
It
from
is
is
very simple.
all
is
done with the back-saw, and if the tool handled with skill, nothing will remain
the chisel.
quire
to
for
re-
To
skill
do
yet,
this,
however, would
more
you may therefore cut not quite up to the marks with the saw, leaving a little wood to be trimmed off with the chisel. Be very careful, when trimming this off, to have your chisel as keen as possible, and to use the sliding
possess
as
and
movement
piece
also,
already described.
the
first
In removing
the
mortise-
the
work
is
Wood - Working.
done
right
115
with
in
the
saw.
Hold
the
piece
up-
marks on the end of A, but very near them, and cut down to the crossmark. In making these cuts on ^, as well corresponding cuts on (7, and any as the others which go lengthwise of the grain, be careful not to hold the saw quite horizontally, or with the tip inclining downward, as in cross-cutting, but with the handle downward
the
inclined
as
in
ripping, as
in
Fig. 50.
Otherwise the
Ftg.50.
teeth
will
stick
too
firmly
in
the
wood,
In
in
cuts
and
C,
the
saw
will
jump, or
as
is
''chatter.''
making
this
cross-cuts,
precaution
not necessary.
116
Manual
Training.
When
cut
have been
out
to
made,
piece
the
of
next
operation
is
to
the the
wood
between
as
them
in
down
last
cross-mark.
Here,
the
exercise,
the
work
of cutting
with the
chisel
may
be
lessened
we
the
will,
sake
of variety in
exercise,
use
different
cut-
method,
tise
with the
alone.
chisel
Lay the piece on the bench, with the dove-tail end from you and the right side (Fig. 49, B) up: this is the side on which the two cuts come nearest together (1^^.
I^i^.Si
Set the
chisel
at
the
inside
of
H,
the
flat side
of the
chisel
Wood - Working,
the chisel in about a quarter of an inch.
117
Do
feeble,
uncertain blows,
if
You may,
it
you choose,
to
is
make
sure of starting
it is
chisel
in
about a quarter of
penetrate
you
it
is
to
any
farther.
the
chisel
triangular chip
chisel
at
shown
again
drive
the
as
it
upright
the
in
same
point
first,
and
farther.
Move
again,
nearer
to
the end,
tipped
forward
and cut out another chip. Advance thus, till you have got half-way through the piece; then turn it over and proceed in the same way from the other side. Be careful not to let the chisel go through and strike the bench. If you cannot check it, place a piece of clean board under your work. As
Mann a
piece
to
Trainina.
the
be
cut
out
is
wider on
the
in-
first,
you must
your
chisel right
under a
face
little
and
to
the mortise
When
of the
the piece
mortise are to
be carefully
pared so
Lessoist
XVTI.
The
Chisel
will
left
Continued.
Dove-Tailing.
we
WE
We
now
had got out the required material, cut it to the proper shape, and put it away to dry
thoroughly.
Examine the
them
to
dimensions.
If they
much, it may be necessary to make them somewhat smaller than originally proposed, s^y tV^ ^ ^tV^12^'' for the long pieces, and
iV'xSii''^^
to be
7f'' for
it
is
hoped that
The
which which
now
to be
52,
tailed tenons
fit
The
n9
pieces
e
--I
>
cv
cu
D D D
I I
3 3
I I
D D
I
3
f
I
]^[
<-
nvz
/?//."'-
B
Sactle
'/s
B
07-
6"=
}-l
{c?
a d
:
\n
D
!
d
T-t^, 5Z.
which stand out between the mortises in B^ and which might themselves be regarded as tenons
fitting
^^pins/'
The
show end-views of the The interrupted pieces A and B respectively. lines at A and B have the meaning already exfigures
C and
plained on page
2.
These drawings should be carefully studied If they till they are thoroughly understood.
cannot
be
understood
otherwise,
you
121
may
122
Manual
Training,
examine a finished box and compare them After this the work is to be laid with it.
out in the following
First,
way
drawn with
of A,
being
before
explained, in
similar cases,
work from one edge and one face of the Then the lines c d are to be drawn on piece. the pieces B. Next set out on a 6 the eleven distances, of which those numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 are equal, those numbered 6, 7, 8, 9 are also equal, and the two end spaces are half as long as 6 and 7.
to
When
these
spaces
have
bevel,''
been
laid
out
from a
'^
f can provided e f is
h to e
to
inches wide,
face.
with
The
you have used in previous exercises to place under your work to protect your bench will do very well. Near one end draw
a fine pencil-line across
it
Avith
your square.
along
the
Measure
from
this
line
an inch
Wood - Working.
edge
of
123
the
board,
and
four
inches
along
the line.
it
Layi^out
through the two dove-taiis. points thus determined, and clamp it. With the bevel thus set, placing it against the end
of the piece A^ you
lines
can
mark
first
all
the
which slope
it
in one direction,
all
and then,
in
turning
over,
those that
will will
slope
the
other direction.
They
appear as in Fig.
be a
little
52 A,
at
The
is
dove-tails
wider
hold a
little
tighter, if
the bevel
even of 3 to
ever, will
tails
make
they
is
may
break off at
the
wider
lessens
as
in
Fig.
53
to be
If
A,
This
the
in
the
amount of work
rather
dove-tails
done, but
leaves
the pins
weak.
are
both
pins
and the
widened, as
Fig. 53 B, the
of too
much
sparing of labor.
You may
lay out, on
124
Manual
Training.
the edges
sets
and ends of your piece of board of dove-tails with different angles and
r-J"
rJ
^
M
t]
"-1
jF'i^^.
S3
compare them as to appearance and strength, and may select one for your work if you prefer to do so. Having marked out the dove-tails on one
spaces,
and
lines
Wood - Working.
draw
fine
125
lines
with
end is rough, you can make these lines clearer by first rubbing some chalk into the end-wood. After these lines are made, draw with the bevel, dovetails on the other face, to correspond with those already drawn on the first.
ends of the pieces.
Next
drawing,
outside
mark out
Fig.
the
pin-pieces
B,
The
B
is
on
the
when
is
its
place in the
box.
marked on a
distances
Be very
Ap-
through the points thus found, perpendicular to the end. Holding the piece upright in the
vise,
B,
face
corresponding
of A,
as
in
52
with
of
opposite
When you
all
the pieces.
126
Manual
the
Training.
hold
end-piece
upright
in
the
vise,
the face
Set
Exercise 32.
Dove-taiied box.
on B, the end IV turned from 7^^. ^ud assurc yoursclf, by care^^\ inspection, that the hnes on
exactly
with those
In-
on the
take
spect
other,
so
other
corners
the
same way.
I,
Mark
I
;
II,
III,
III
IV, IV.
as
Mark
in
Fig.
the parts
54.
that are
Ob
to
be cut out
This
Fi^. ^6h.
will
common
''
with
beginners, of
wrong
called
pieces.
With
saw,''
the
back-saw,
cuts
dove-tail
pieces,
make
all
the
on
the
pin
and then
up
Wood - Working,
to
127
it.
If this
fit
is
skillfully
done
board
the
pieces
will
together
without paring.
a
clean
to
to drive
larly before
to
making an oblique
quite
cut
through
corners
of
from one
Not Not
if
to
let
the
the
pieces
violently together
they
tight.
"When
joint
the
pieces
are
put
together,
every
'^
should
the
be
perfectly
close,
the
ends of
^^
flush
with
surface
of the
next,
corners,
LiESSOis^
XYIII.
Gluing.
A
;
BOX
preserve
or
any
To hold it in proper shape in spite of strains it must be fastened with and when properly glued it is imposglue
siderable strain.
sible
to get
it
by soaking
it
To prepare glue, soak it over-night in enough cold water to cover it, and in the morning cook it gently for an hour or two
in
it
the
outer pot
does
not
boil
away
flow
to burn.
When
hot,
ready for
will
the
glue,
if
thoroughly
freely,
from a running
It
is
stick
ofl"
or
pretty
in
drops.
very
128
important that
should
be
of
Wood - Working.
just
129
the
right
into
If too
consistency.
If
too
thin,
it
will soak
the
wood without
and
acting as a
cement.
it
thick,
especially if cold,
will
make
of
the
seen
it
few
times
you
it.
recognizing
It
beginner
is
in
general disposed
;
too
at
if
is
falls
from
have it thoroughly hot when used. It is worse than useless to allow yourself to be led by impait is
ency
equally
important
to
tience
right.
into
using
it
is
just
Not only must the glue be hot, but the pieces to which it is to be applied must
be
heated
till
they
are
hot
to
the
touch
and the room in which the gluing is done must be warm, and free from draughts. No open window must be allowed near work
130
Manual Training,
is
that
being glued
(except
in
the
case
of
when heat is supplied in another way). Lastly, the work of gluing must be done quickly, so that the wood and the glue
veneering,
shall
have no time to
pieces
chill,
and
as
much
of
between the
together.
by forcing
them
close
may
First
now
put
Set
two hand-
Exercise 33.
Setting hand-screws,
screws
to a width
equal to the
The proper
closc
way
it
to
Open
Or
a handis
screw,
when
requires
much
change,
to
each hand,
face,
hold
it
other,
After a
little
becomes very
screws.
easy,
even
with
thus
rather
large
After
you
have
Wood - Working.
is
131
resting
it
along
near
to
one end, but not so near as to rest on the dove-tails, and turn the front screw A, Fig. 55,
till
C D.
is
Then turn
required in
both edges.
Considerable care
to,
this operation,
much
press-
132
Manual
Training.
little
yon tighten the front screw A pressure on the back edge will be excessive when you come to screw up the hinder one. If you do not tighten it enough, the screw will bite at the point and not at the back. If you find your first attempt unsuccessful, you must always loosen the back screw before
trying to readjust the front one.
When
are
the
adjustment
exactly
tightened,
is
right,
the
parallel
when
and should
sssQlUZD
press equally
on point
ascin:)
and
is
heel.
faulty,
and tends
set
to break
tails,
Having
it
one screw
at each
shall
Wood - Working,
the
still
133
back screws a little and the front screws only just enough to allow the less,
easily,
and lay
See that
for
use.
the
proper
order.
of a
or in an oven,
the
stove
is
very
be
raised a little
from the
prevent
case
top
on small
pieces
of wood,
in
to
either
from time to time. When they are well warmed, lay them one on top of another on your bench, in the order in which they are numbered, and, with
should
the least possible loss of time apply the glue.
This
size,
may
in
the
pass
the
brush
crosswise
over
the
or backs;
enough glue
faces
run in on the
a
little
inclined
of
the
pins, or
may
the
be
rubbed
in
there
with
the
end
of
brush.
134
inside faces
Manual Training.
of the dove-tails, allowing a
little
to
run
inside,
^^ Exercise 34.
^'
out
When
the two
on
it,
clean.
and all the outside surfaces will be Put them together quickly, driving
them
hammer
(strik-
ing on a strip of
wood
so as
not to bruise
them),
of
apply
as
the
hand-screws,
them up
glue
will
out
of
to
This
must not be
it is
allowed
dry on
it
the
wood, as
it is
off
when
chisel,
dry.
with a
and wash off the rest with a piece of clean rag or a bunch of shavings wet with hot water.
without scratching the wood,
As
tions,
success in
this,
as in
all
gluing operait
will be
ments with a dry brush without glue, and not apply the glue till you are sure you can rapidly perform all and the movements
without confusion.
Wood - Working,
If the joints are
135
box
best
preserve
its
shape.
As
there
is
examine it carefully as soon as it is screwed up. The hand-screws will prevent you from applying a square, outside, and you will only be able to apply a small one inside, or to test the squareness by the eye, or by measuring the two diagonals, which ought to be equal. The winding may be tested by setting the box on your bench. Any error in squareness or winding must be corrected by loosening the screws, and applytorting
it,
to
pressure
at
once,
before
are
to
the
screws
be
carefully
tightened
again,
and
must not be
when the
Lessois^
XIX.
now
the
to
on,
top
all
up true and smooth. To put on the bottom you must plane up the bottom edges square, smooth, and free from winding. Use the square and the smoothing-plane, and be very careful not to
splinter
the edges.
this at
There
ends,
is
much danger
The
that,
of
doing
the
the
corners.
front
and
in
back
overlap
so
while
running the plane along the edge of the front or back you will be planing lengthwise of
the grain, at
stroke
pieces,
the beginning
you and
at
will will
them
same way, in planing along the end-pieces you Avill be The likely to splinter the front and back.
the
edge.
In
the
136
Wood - Working,
137
way
to
avoid
this
is,
in
the
first
place,
to
set fine,
and
in
the next, to
at the corners,
work
obliquely
instead
of
going
have planed
as in
the
lower edges
same precautions
surfaces, the
In cases like
this,
where
it
it
off,
it
may
the
surface
with
soap
or
wax,
being
very
none on the surfaces which are to be glued together. Moreover, as you cannot easily get at the inside of the box to finish it up after it is put together, all the surfaces must be made smooth and clean
careful to get
before
it
is
glued.
is
When
the glue
as
dry you
may
finish
the
upper edges
lower ones,
height
already.
all
jou have already finished the and make the box of the same
if
it
round,
is
not
exactly
so
138
Manual
Training,
sides,
using as before
in
off
smoothing-plane.
vise,
In doing this
you
the
ends
of the
careful
not to
of the stroke.
Exercise 35.
pianing
must be very splinter the wood at the end To avoid this you must let
and
stroke
across
the
extend
the end,
only
half-
way
yQ^
the
and when
end-wood.
havc
in
thus
nearly
cut
dowu One
turn
corner
the
of
bottom
never
enough,
box
round
the vise
letting
other corner,
clear out
to the edge.
same way. As this work is rather hard, you had better, if there is much more than about an eighth of an inch to take off, cut off most of it
end
of
the
bottom
the
After
planing
off
the
the
sides of
same.
first
care,
The reason for not planing the sides is, that if you should, in spite of your splinter them a little while planing the
Wood - Working.
out.
139
to be taken off
If there
is
mnch wood
first,
the smoothing-plane.
careful to
up the four sides with the smoothing-plane, working from the corners inwards, and never
letting
the
plane
run
out.
ness, straightness,
and
set
and winding
any glue on the inside, it can be best removed with a chisel when it has got quite hard, provided you have soaped or waxed the surface so that it cannot stick.
If there
IjESSOis'
XX.
Fitting Hinges.
YOU box.
elevation
are
now ready
Fig. 57
to put hinges
on your
to
of a hinge.
When
applied
the
box the
is
(^
to
be
sunk into
half into
and
of
the the
lower
back,
and
both
be
fastened
two box
where you
in
to
fasten
at
them, as
Fig.
not
the
JK
fine
Mark
the
and
with
the
square
draw
This
pencil-lines
across.
Next mark on
not the
full
when
the
Wood - Working.
hinge
is
141
fastened
on,
59,
it
appear as in Fig.
falling
the
exactly at the
of
corners
the
pieces.
With
set
two the
this
gauge
to
width,
width
scratch,
mark the
the
a
hinge,
light
b
I
of
loo
making only
and
hinge.
extend-
ing
of
it
the
Hold
the
58,
Fvg,J&.
the
top
against
Fig.
back, as in
transfer
the
four
the
top,
the
the
mark
mark
Tvg. 59.
just
as
their
width,
on the edge.
Next,
mark
top
the
depth to which
In
order that
properly, they
sunk.
close
they ma}'
let
let
the
in
must be
exactly
half
142
their
If
Manual
thickness
into
Training.
each part
of
the box.
against
therefore,
exactly
to
the middle of
the
show how deep the hinge is to be let in. With the gauge thus set mark the back, and the edge of the top. All being properly marked out, lay the top on your bench, and cut out the pieces to This Exercise 36. make room for the hinges. operation is exactly the same as Fitting
hinges.
that
the
will
cut
is
very
shallow
one,
and
you
deep.
and drive
it
in,
Make
a series of
^ apart
This breaks
up the wood so that, holding the box in the vise, you can easily, by cutting across the grain, pare away the wood down to the mark.
Then, laying the piece on the bench again,
finish
left
cutting
away the
sides of
little
on the three
the spaces,
the
Wood - Working.
hinges exactly
the same way.
fit.
143
Fit
them
Now
lay
in
the top
and
If
see
let
deep enough.
not, carefully
away
enough wood to let them into their proper places. If you should happen to cut away too much (which you ought not to do) you must glue a piece of card-board or shaving under the hinge to bring it up. Also, open
the top, put the hinges in place, as in Fig. 58,
whether the back edge of the top just touches the edge of the back all along.
see
and
If
all
these
you may make a small hole with an awl exactly in the middle of each of the holes in the hinges, and put in the screws with your small screw-driver, being careful, before using any screw on the top, to assure yourself
that
it is
With
1.
all
on hinges, several
enough
144
Manual
Training.
or, if it is
forced shut,
is
far,
giving an ugly
an
unnecessary
gap
opened.
4.
If
too
wide a space
top
will
is
cut
out, letting
the hinges
in
pin,
against the
will
force
off
the hinges.
5.
If
width allowed
for for
one hinge
is
greater
top will
down
The
Taking
of
is
any of
easy to
screws,
these
faults
being
the
understood,
apply
the remedy.
set
out
the
you
must
Wood - Working.
145
make new holes for the they may push tlie hinges
to
screws, so
in
that
the
old
proper
holes
direction.
Before
doing
this,
the
must be plugged up with small sticks whittled to the proper size and fastened in with
glue.
After the
top
is
cautions
were
used
finishing
the
bottom.
A
on, to
will
small
brass
hook-and-eye
may
be
put
keep
the
box
shut.
This
operation
need no explanation.
LiESSOX XXI.
Isometric
them away; and when you took them out again you found that they had shrunk in width though not in length, and you measured the amount of the shrinkage. You found also that some of the pieces had checked, and some had warped. When large pieces of wood are used,
shrinkage, warping, and checking give rise to
serious
trouble.
Thus, in
door
30 inches
wide shrinkage
or more,
may amount
to
to half
an inch
appear.
and warping
place
and then come to an end, but the wood having once shrunk may swell again, and shrink again, and so on repeatedly. Doors that are exposed to the dry air of
146
Wood - Working,
houses
147
which are heated in winter become very loose, but sometimes swell up in summer The shrinkage will be so much as to stick.
the
less if
seasoned,
Doors
piece,
are
therefore
made
one
constructed of parts,
so
arranged
as
to
as
reduce
much
possible the bad effects of these There are changes. two principal methods
of
construction
this
is
by which
is
ac
complished.
The first
and
second the
door.
is
paneled
of
The
battened door
strips.
made
.
JFi,y.60.
Fig
60,
running
together
lengthwise
of
the door
or
and
held
by
cross-strips
battens^ fastened
148
Manual
Training.
on with screws or nails. As the wood shrinks only in width and not in length, the shrinking
of the
strips
will
only
cause
the edges to
little,
separate a
and
the
any
I^lof.61.
change
of
in
width
this
the
door.
The warping,
case,
also, in
will
be
While a piece the whole width of the door might warp, as at a, Fig. 61, a battened door would appear as at h. The separating of the strips, leaving cracks in the door, is prevented by using matched boards, or ''tongue and groove" joints, as shown in the plan Fig. 60, or on a larger
small in amount.
^^
''
scale in Fig.
62.
In
this
case
tongues
the
slip
Fv^.62.
partly
of
out
the
grooves
when
the
the
wood
shrinks,
but
do
not used
leave
is
joints
open.
This
construction
simple
much
where
Wood - Working,
handsome
as
149
appearance
doors
of
are
not
important,
outhouses.
in
the
barns
and
is
used.
<
This
frame-work
mortised
to/>?"
r
gether at the
corners, and
grooved
'^ L
all
round on the
inner edge to
receive a thin
a^
...2
piececalledthe
pariel,as shown
in Fig. 63.
The
o
f
shrinking
causes
slip
it
to
"'L
r-::i
the top and bottom undergo no chang in length, the only alteration in width that the door will suffer is the slight one due to the shrinking in the
150
Manual
Training,
pieces.
We
from
will
make
such
door
the
figured sketch, in
tion,
B
a h.
line
The
called
stiles,
first
to
get out
the material.
top and
bottom
sides,
pieces,
the
upright
of
called
central
piece
or panel.
Take
dimensions
these
from
the
of
drawing, and
which
will
Furthermore,
of
the
the
longer
project
than
%" at
door,
that
in
they
the
may
each
end,
Figure,
and the tenon-pieces, or rails, may be made longer than the width of the door, so that the tenons may project ' beyond the the stiles till all is finished, after which The rails, projecting parts can be cut off. long and therefore, will be cut out
the stiles
2\' long.
Wood - Working.
In laying out the frame,
VIII. to avoid
try, as
151
in
Lesson
to waste as httle
wood
laid to
as possible.
pieces
may
be
out
the
in
one
be
at
off
way
of
cut.
or another, according
character
to
the
If
are
board
in
Fig.
were
64,
much checked
you should cut
the end, as
just
to
cracks,
and
the
in
lay
that
lie
long
^_^
which
should
11^7/
CO
'~
N
|_
/
<
-^~
*"
"Zi
|_
<
III
"
the waste-wood
pieces.
left
at the
If there
Fig,
65,
this
might be made
in the waste-
152
Manual Training.
rails
and the
position
stiles
and
so
according to the
and character
of the defects.
The
to
frame-pieces
being
surfaces
in
to
previous
be
lessons.
The
joints
marked out with gauge, square, and pencil, making all gauge and square marks from the front surface and inner edge of the pieces, which must be marked to distinguish them. The laying out of the joint in this exerare
then
cise
is
complicated
of
of
these
less
is
by
two
the
circumstances.
The
be
of
first
that
tenon
full
must
width
made
the
rail,
in
order that
mortise
the
to
may
stile.
The second
in
this
is,
that
groove
be cut
the
inner
edge of the
four
and arrangement is
pieces,
made
of
prevent
it,
will
stile
leave
hole
be-
shown
66.
the sketch of
this,
one joint
Fig.
To prevent
is
a projecting
stud,
or
tooth,
left
on
the
Wood - Working,
tenon-piece, as
at
153
shown
67.
in
a and
b,
Fig.
out,
may
be
better
...c:
<^
J^vff.66.
elements of
which can be easily understood. The elevations and plans that we have on planes projections hitherto used are
parallel to the
front,
bottom,
sides
and
is
of
from
point
at a great dis-
jj
tance in front
a,
of
the
object,
it,
Tt^.e/.
above
or to
it.
one side of
at a
a plane
154
Manual
Training,
drawn from
are
points
of
to
the object
to
pendicular
the
all
plane.
If
thus
drawn
in
is
from
points
on
the
edges
and
number
the
of
lines
called
projection
The
elevations
and plan already drawn are such projections, and are called
right
projections.
If
we take
front
to
of
little
is
one
or
if,
which
turn
front
the
same thing,
so
Ave
its
the
is
object
that
to
not
parallel
the
plane
of projection,
of the
object
the
is
appearance
called
changed, and
is
the
projection
an
nar-
oblique projection.
Tz^,e<9.
The
front
of
the
object
appears
comes
68.
into
view.
Suppose,
the
plan
is
A, Fig.
Wood - Working.
of
projection,
155
the
front
of
it
appears as a
side
if
C,
and the
is
not seen at
69, the
But,
the
Fig.
will
appear
''
narrowed, or
''
foreshortened
be,
to the
width
hand
face
apparent breadth c cL The elevation, therefore, will now present the appearance shown in D, Fig. 69, where b cf g
represents
one
of
the
!
J?
d
i
hf
another, and
b e i
and
g the two
rear
faces.
d
Tv^.
right,
invisible
If
or
69.
we take
still
the point of
farther
to
view
object
the
the
or
turn
the
becomes apparently narrower, the right face wider, and the two appear presently of equal width.
farther
round,
front
156
Manual
Training.
This happens
when
the square
its
C,
diagonal
perpendicE, Fig.
projection, as at
70.
appears
at
c
F,
in
which a
resent
and
d repof
the
faces
appear
If,
equal
width.
not only
higher,
will
to
but
also
the
vertical
lines
be
If
the
I'igJO.
will
as
view
to appear of
be
taken
P Q
be
made
and
are
the
same length
dimensions
are
P R
S,
Fig. to
72.
All
which
equally
parallel
either
edge
the
then
is
foreshortened,
and
drawing
Wood - Working,
called an isometric
jection.
157
The dotted
of
in
Fig.
72
show
the
edges
the
cube
that
are
concealed.
system
is
thus
seen to be extremely
not
its
difficult,
provided
other.
faces are
perpendicular to each
J^i ^.Yt i
a
Thus,
to
if it
is
required
represent
body of this shape whose length, breadth, and thickness are respectively 3^', 2^', and V\ we have only to draw three lines F Q, P R, and P 8, Fig. 73,
making equal
to lay off
angles
on the one
on the second two equal units, and on the third one of the same units, and complete
158
Manual
Training,
The drawing
''
the
three
is
lines,
or
''
axes
Q,
R.
and
PS
J^7>^ 73,
Q
radius.
Draw
circle
with an}^
From
the
highest
point
To
secure accuracy
least
at
as
long
will
be
well,
box of Lesson XX., the through mortise of Lesson XV, and the end dove-tail of Lesson
XVL,
to
Wood - Working.
such drawings.
those
It
159
will
be readily seen
by
who understand
draw-
ordinary
perspective
drawings, that
isometric
ings
differ
from
in
true
these
giving
only
the
dimensions of the
remote
as
as
well
of
parts,
of
those
the
near
while perspective
drawings
make
rz^^. r^.
scale
cannot
Lessor XXII.
Paneled Door Continued.
FIG.
75
is
is
1^1^.7^.
n^. 76.
A B
will
C and
the stud
From
these drawings
you
Wood - Working,
be able
to
161
understand the
way
of
marking
As the tenons are to project half an inch beyond the stiles, and as these are 2^ wide,
Tt^.YZ
a
mark
3^'
is
to be
made
end,
first,
all
around each
and a second mark 10^' from this, which will be 3'^ from the other end. These are the marks at A B, Fig. 76, which show the shoulder of the tenon.
rail
from
the
162
Manual Traming.
D, so as to prevent
of
cutting
across
to
tlie
mistake
^tud
tlie
The paneled
Door.
saw.
Next the thickness of the tenon is to be marked with the gauge on the edges and ends of the rails as at E, always working from the front face. Then the breadth of the tenon is to be marked by drawing, with the gauge, lines ^ and 2^' from the inner edge, being careful not to extend them beyond the cross lines at D and F, Lastly, the length of the stud D is to be marked with the square, and its breadth with the gauge. The marking will then appear as in Fig. 77. The marking out of the mortise is simpler, and is shown in Fig. 78. Light marks P Q may be made 3i'' from the ends of tlie stiles, which will be 15^^ apart, and will indicate
the positions of the inner edges of the
or the
inside
rails,
Marks
S 2' from
length of
indicate
the
outside
the
frame.
drawn
light, as
either of them.
Wood - Working,
though they serve
vent mistakes in
laying
rest.
16;
as a
useful check
to
pre-
out
the
and
will
2^'
from
of
PQ
the the
show
length
mortise;
gauge
with
the
and marks
gauge
B,
set exactly as in
drawing A
Fig. 77, and
measwill
ured
front
from the
face,
the
mortise.
^1^.76".
78,
which the dotted The groove for are on the rear faces.
Fig.
in
the
It
panel
appears
it
is
not
shown
;
in
these
figures.
in
Fig. 75
marking
will
be shown
164
Manual
Training,
finished,
the cut-
saw cut
the lines
first
the
lines
B,
then
and
stud
F, observing that
so
deep as
F,
in
order
leave
the
make
pieces
the cross-cuts
then
fall
leaving the
tenon
B,
must be pared down to the proper thickness with the chisel, by taking off 8^' from its back face, as shown in Fig. 77 and in Fig. 67 a. The tenon, also, will need some paring, if you have not cut exactly to the marks with the saw but you must not in any case cut beyond the middle of the mark. The mortise may be cut with the centerbit and chisel in the same way as in Lesson XV., page 89, or with the chisel alone. The breadth of the mortise being small and its
;
held exactly
perpendicular
to
and
Wood - Working.
kept very steady.
cut
165
For
reason,
will
alone.
out
this
mortise
with
the
chisel
Lay
the
edge up.
your bench, with the To steady it, you may first lay a
piece
on
To^. 79.
set
the piece
Fig. 79.
and
tighten
the screw, as in
With
alternate
perpendicular
and
oblique
166
Manual Training.
described on page 116, cut the mor-
cuts, as
tise
the
over
other
four
and
side.
cut
in
from
the
When
two cuts
meet, the
surfaces
are to
be pared to
careful
half
width of
each
mark.
in
erly
closely
the
is
mortise.
so
home,'' being
this
Lesson XXIII.
The
Plovs^.
Fitting
for
a Panel.
purpose
plow.
Its
is
THE kind
tion
tool
used
this
of plane called
mode
of
the
itself.
accompanying
Figure
and
the tool
The
^'
iron
b
d,
The
the
fence''
determines
the
distance
piece.
of
It
groove
be
set
can
the
iron
or
by which
e,
regulates
exercise
it
the
depth
so
the
at
^^\
cut.
For
this
must be
must be
set
from the face of the frame. Before venturing to use the plow on your frame, you should try it on a waste-piece, and assure yourself
that
the
you can cut a smooth, clean groove at proper distance from the face of the
167
168
Manual
Training.
The plow
"bits,"
of
J^i.^. 80.
different sizes
for cutting
grooves of different
that
widths.
Exe rcise
For
38.
used.
fg
Remember
If
this
the plow
Grooving,
to be
surface of
each piece.
precaution
is
probably not match at the corners, and the panel cannot be got in. The grooves must not be planed beyond the depth indicated.
Wood - Working,
for
if
169
cut
too
deep
they
will
weaken
the
much. The grooves being cut, the which have been left to fill them studs will go into their places, and all the joints
pieces too
should
fit
quite
left
close.
If
it
too
much wood
be carefully
has been
anywhere
if
may
has
pared away;
there
is
too
much
panel,
been
plane
it
cut off
no remedy.
the
first
it
To prepare
to
finish
with the
edges
other,
smoothing-plane.
straight
Then
plane
to
two
each
and
perpendicular
in
being
careful,
splintering, as
138.
directed in
Then
cut
the
piece
the
proper
the in-
breadth of
the panel,
of the
The
next
to
fitted
to
groove by
chamfering.
(V^)
all
Mark
the
width
the chamfer
round the
lightly
face
with a
gauge,
with
the
and the depth (^'') on the edge in the same way. Lay the piece on the bench, its edge
170
Manual
Training.
tlie
down with
again
mark
is
all
round,
avoid
being
careful
If this
to
splintering.
properly
''^
done, the panel will have a thickness of f at a distance of half an inch from the edge, and
will
just
fit
in
Figure,
ScaZe
^/i
the
which
before
fine
shading,
has
been
introduced
in
once
Fig. 63,
lines
c,
indicates
cross-section,
ruled
being
generally
used
for
metal, and
for
fits
somewhat
coarser
free-hand
lines
if
it
wood.
tight,
Do
but ease
carefully
till
it
enters
is
freely
without looseness.
of
it
The
flat
side
to
The frame
thicker than
the
the
door
the
has
been
made
ought to
be, in
stiles
order to lessen
risk of splitting
It
while making
the mortises.
may now
Wood - Working.
finished to
171
proper thickness.
This
is
not
take,
workman would
hereafter in
make
at
it
mark on both
distance
ljQ^\
edges of
front.
each
piece
that
at
from the
a
front.
Then, setting
at
make
second
mark
this
distance
to
from the
Plane the
faces
exactly
The thickness of the frame will then be reduced to 1jq^\ and the groove will be l^\ from the front, and y\^' from the back,
these marks.
distance
being
left
larger
because
shown
in Fig. 81.
LiESSOx
XXIV.
Chamfering.
Sand-Paper. Shellac.
be glued together and
finished front
or
the
edges
Fig. 82
of
the
frame
may
is
be chamfered
is
shows
line
how
the chamfer
to be laid out.
The
^ ^
inner edge at
The
and
pencil
is
mark
is
apt to
show on the
at
finished work.
each
and 0, B and D, For the former, mark the point a from the inner corner of the frame, A and C one inch from 0, and corresponding points at the
172
Wood - Working.
other end of the piece.
173
For the
latter,
mark
0.
as
before,
and
and
1^"
from
To cut the chamfer. First with the beveled end. Hold the piece in your vice; set
the
chisel near
a,
the
flat
side
Exercise 40.
make an
nearly
inclined chamfering a
down
to
frame,
ruled
line,
and
throwing
it
up a
about
chip.
Turning the
be-
174
Manual
Training.
yond
a,
or
(7,
chip, leaving
close to
a notch.
chisel
making
very
a
you
can,
and
B,
left
being
careful
not to
the
a
the chisel go
line
even
little
it
beyond
does
so,
ruled
because, if
mark
such
will
be
Having
made
notch
at
may
score the
down to the two marks, and pare it down, making a plane surface inclined to the face. You will find tliat it is not easy perfectly true. to make this surface The
points
to
be
attended
to
in
order to secure
good
1.
results are:
To keep
sharp,
and
in
To give it constantly the sliding movement which prevents it from following the
2.
As you
chisel
it
get nearly
down
flat
to the required
depth of
the
that
the chamfer, to
lying quite
act
as
on the
surftice,
so
all
shall
plane,
removing
irregularities.
Wood - Working.
4.
171
To take
end
to
care,
while
cutting
or
either
the
inclined
of
the
chamfer,
the
long
plane surface, to
surface, but
in a perfectly sharp
line,
perpen-
You
see
that
it
is
impossible
it
from
the
up
with
If
the
cham-
long, the
smoothing-plane
it,
can
be
used
in
the middle of
but even
Fine
sand-paper
is
sometimes
used
4I.
in finishing
up such a
surface, a
exercise
piece of
it
Sand-papering.
of
and
fro,
taking great
care not
block, as this
on
the block,
which
case
it
will
wrap round the corner of the work and produce the same result. Even with the utmost
care
that
can>
be
taken,
the
sand-paper
is
176
Manual Training.
characterize
that
shaving
to
can
afterwards
be
taken
with
face,
the smoothing-plane
restore
The ogee end of the chamfer is more difficult than the plane end. The curved surface to be formed is concave at a. Fig. 83, and convex The part at h.
a should be cut
first.
The
chisel
is
JF'iyg.SS,
set
with
in
the
handle towards
the
left
the
Figure,
hevel side towards
and the
the
it
the wood, a
cut
little to
left
is
of
a,
and
small
the
made.
towards
the
Then
the
turned
the
with
handle
towards
right,
bevel
still
wood, and
the
gradually
widening
proper
size.
the hollow
cut
is
most inclined at the beginning of the hollow and level at the bottom, the handle of the chisel must be depressed as you approach the bothas
the
As the
Wood - Working.
torn,
177
to
prevent the
the
opposite
surface
b
tool
making
hollow.
mark on
The
the
side
is
the
convex
the
cut with
the back of
as
chisel
towards
surface,
the
wood,
is
in
cutting
plane
to
and
entire
comparatively
easy
like
form.
The
sur-
curved
surface,
the
plane
the
chisel
alone.
chisel,
sand-paper (No.
in
x
the
^^^
fol-
lowing way:
Prepare
flat
stick, J''
5^\
faces
with
a
your
knife
that
at
to
fit
such
the
curvature
will
nearly
hollow,
at
touching
sides.
the
bottom,
but
not
the
the
Glue
it
as
to
smooth
is
hollow.
Even
rounding
with
the
this
there
danger of your
and particularly of spoiling the sharp point of junction at c, between the ogee and the straight edge of your piece. You will do best, therefore, to endeavor to avoid
surface,
this, re-
garding
it
as
the resource of
an
unskillful
178
Manual
This,
Training.
workman.
derstood as
it
however,
is
not
to
be unuse
of
condemning
are
the
proper
on broad surfaces
there
to give a
smooth
finish,
when
to
likely
be injured by
The chamfered edges being now you may pass the smoothing-plane,
fine,
finished,
set
very
them
is
together.
The
other
The panel
groove, but
not
to
be
glued
it
into
its
left
free, so
that
can be
shrink
best
to
without
splitting.
It
will
even
the
rub
some
its
soap
or
wax on
corners, to
prevent
by
the
the joints.
large
to
and B, Fig. 84, three or four inches wide, and as long as the inside of your frame. Fasten them down on your bench parallel to each other
Provide two
strips
board,
the door
will
lie
Wood - Working,
179
between them, with about an inch to spare. Lay two pairs of wedges in the open space,
and d. By driving the inner wedges outward you can force the stiles exercise 42. up close against the shoulders of Giving up a
as at c
the tenons.
panel frame,
stile
together, insert
TCq,6^.
d
\
[
]
and drive them home then put in the panel, and lastly put on the other stile and drive it up tight. Put no glue on the inner edge of the tenon, as whatever is put on here will be
;
180
Manual
Training.
the
panel.
and correct any error, before allowing the glue to set, by gentle strokes of the hammer on the proper corners, protecting the edge with a block of wood when you strike it.
When
all is dry,
not to cut
outer edge
you
will
deface
the
of the frame.
plane, observing
precautions indicated in
The
shellac
tect
it
surfaces
of the
door
may
be
finished
in
alcohol.
This will
pro-
part
from the
will
effects
it
of moisture.
Exercise 43.
Finishing with
shellac.
and
allow
to
to be cleaned
^^^
all
^imc
a
time.
Sand-paper
clear
of
dust
with
free
clean
rag.
Then, in
with a
let
it
warm room,
brush,
from
dust, apply
flat
dry.
Do
oftener than
smooth.
is
Passing the
brush
over
it
when
it
begin-
Wood - Working.
ing
to ^^set/' or dry,
181
breaks
up
if
the
left
smooth
to
itself.
it
surface
that
it
would form
too
Do
flow
it
is
not put on
much
at a time;
''runs/'
first
will
down
form
which
coat
is
hard to remove.
hour,
When
be
the
an
it
may
rubbed
down with
coat applied.
If
finish
you
the
have
determined
in
advance
to
work with shellac, it will be best to finish the panel and the inner edges of In this case, howthe frame before gluing. ever, you must be careful to clean off* with warm water any glue that may get on the
finished
it
it.
surfaces,
it
before
it
hardens,
as,
after
is
hard
will
with
after
ALPHABETICAL INDEX,
Accidents with
tools,
prevention of
....
.
PAGE
Ax
See
Hatchet
143
Awl
Back-saw, use of in cross-cutting and ripping
.115
147
Battened door
Bench-dog
79 63
123 105
Bench-hook
Bevel
Boring
62
119
105
Brad-awl
Broken
lines in drawings,
meaning of
...
143
2
Cap
of plane
60
105
101, 169, 172
Center-bit
Chamfering
Checks
Chisel,
;
See Cracking
form of
grinding
paring with
"
"
.......
.85
94
88
183
184
Manual
Training.
PAGB
Chisel,
"
"
90 92
29, 31
Cracking of timber
Cross-cutting with hatchet
6
.
"
"
" "
knife
saw
23
.
Door, battened
" "
147 149
paneled
prevention of effect of shrinkage
.
146
111
Dove-tail,
end
.
Dove-tailed box
Dove-tailing, points to be attended to in
.
.
119
127
Dowels
Drawings, scale of; working
"
details
.
28 38
34, 41
"
isometric projection
153
lines
.
"
"
meaning of broken
working sketches
sections
. .
2 36
"
"
'
41,150
170
.
End-wood, planing
Fibers of
138
15
wood
.
Gauge, use of
" "
...
. .
'
74
128
137
134, 135
.
preparation of
to prevent
from sticking
.
Gluing
Gluing,
128
for
133
Index.
185
PAGE
Hammer,
striking with
hewing with
splitting
66 95 49
130, 132
6 13
"
with
8 13
140
143
points to be attended to in
Hook and
145
Isometric drawing
153
>
splitting
with
.
.
7
11
"
end dove-tails
paneled door
"
"
.... ....
. . .
.
123
,
112
105
.
162
"
work
48. 151
,
Mallet
102
24
.
gauge
. .
74
vii
Materials required
Metric measures
Mortise-cutting with center-bit
" "
.
104
106
116, 164 103, 160
without center-bit
"
and tenon
Nailed box
52
186
Manual
Training.
PAGE
Nails,
drawing
56
.
"
form of
right
50
49
51
"
176
86,92
146
.
172
169 164
178
panel of
"
cutting mortises
finishing
and tenons
.
.
for
.
up
gluing
177
grooving for
laying out
168
.
162
101
'
87
11
knife
Pine-wood
Plane, fore
"
" "
.......
of holding
96
70
.
jack
manner
....
58
63
mode
of action of
59,61
64
.
" "
smoothing
69
Planing an edge
Planing end-wood
"
76
138, 139
to thickness
76
Plane-irons
Plane-iron, adjustment of
...
59 60
Index.
187
PAGE
Plow
Sand-paper
Saw, back
.
167
175, 177
78, 115
Saw, cross-cut
"
21
79, 126
.
dove-tail
45
.
Saw, rip
"
83
78
38
11
tenon
.
Scale of drawings
Sharpening tools
Shellac varnish
.
....
.
143
92
.
180 146
effect of,
.
on doors
.
28
movements of cutting
.
tools
.
4
.
,
knife
....
8
7
.
Square
Standard edge or surface
Straight-edge
24
45,72 55
18
Testing-machine
Timber
See
Wood
list
Tools required,
of
vii
30 69
See Paring
Winding
Winding, removal of
55
71
188
Manual
Training.
PAGE
Winding-sticks
......
and warping of
.
55
15
Wood,
" "
fibers of
shrinking, cracking
29,
30
18
strength of
.
15, 16
38
36
sketches
"
Date
.
Due
m''
ii^7n
'^nn? cUU/
'
173024
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may
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Two
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