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LUCIANO FRANCHI presents

ART OF ITALIAN COFFEE

Luciano Franchi and Benjamin Harnwell

ART OF ITALIAN COFFEE

Introduction

Blends and Roasting Grind and Dosage Machines Coffee

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CONTENTS

The authors would like to thank Pier Paolo Barberis and Carolina Vergnano of Caff Vergnano for their support and encouragement, and Federico Fregnan of Elektra for his technical advice. Monika Franchi and Adrianna Dziubek also read the final proofs and removed a number of mistakes. Remaining errors, of course, are ours alone.

INTRODUCTION
The state of the UK coffee market today is an absolute catastrophe. How can anyone make such a bold statement as this when there are at least a half dozen thriving coffee shops in the centre of any town in the country? Because simply what is being sold on these premises is not coffee. A whole generation of Britons has been deceived by the large American coffee roasters into buying and consuming a product that would be laughed at if served in its natural home Italy. It is as if an American company was revealed to be selling to Italians the traditional English pint but surreptitiously watering it down by around 90%! What is even more scandalous is that it is not the palette of the coffee drinker which is motivating the market, but the needs and convenience of the large coffee chains themselves. Their shopfronts are seared into our civic landscape in much the same way that their boiling-hot, bucket-sized cappuccino sears an unforgiving scar into the poor unsuspecting throat. These unwanted money-grabbing giants are hijacking the traditional techniques, and not even hijacking them very well.

We want to re-focus attention on the lost art of Italian coffee. Espresso, not latte, is coffee. We are not so embarrassed about the quality of our blend that we try to hide its taste by diluting it with 90% milk. Latte is to coffee what Stock, Aiken & Waterman is to music. One day, we would like to say to any customer ordering latte: Oh, Im sorry, were a coffee shopwe dont sell latte. But this remains only an aspiration for the time being. It is well said that there is no force more powerful than an idea whose time has come. Well, the force is Caff Vergnano, and the idea is to serve coffee across the whole of Europe to the same standard that it is served to the Italian market. It is as straightforward as that.

So the scope of this Guide is to say a little about what coffee actually is it is not a recipe book of all the various novelties that have been tried from time to time. We intend to tell you all the secrets that they dont want you to know: how a few pennies are saved by sloppy harvesting techniques. How a few more pennies can be pocketed by burning, as opposed to roasting, the coffee bean. How the coffee goes from bean to espresso in front of ones very eyes, and what actually happens. Why the quality of the machine makes a real difference. Coffee is an organic product, not a synthetic one. It is also bought and sold on the free market without state intervention, so its trade is fair. Therefore all coffee is organic, and all coffee is fair trade. Any coffee trying to sell itself to you explicitly on these merits alone is obviously relying on a gimmick. Do not be fooled. Finally, in preparing this Guide, we held to one basic premise: if the Italians possess a coffee culture at its zenith, then the English possess it at its nadir. As the distributor for Caff Vergnano in the UK, we have written this Guide as much for coffee-lovers in Great Britain, as for those around Europe, and though our focus is on the market we know best, much of these points will find a resonance across the continent. We celebrate all that is rightfully to be celebrated; and we warn too against the ever-tightening eagle claw of the 52-starred menace. Above all, oppose the very existence of these giant leeches dominating the coffee market with their undrinkable tar. These shameless rapinatori are serving cappuccino with milk so hot it would make molten lava blush. They should be prosecuted under the Trade Descriptions Act, not encouraged with your custom. Remember: coffee must always be treated with respect. We hope you enjoy our short Guide. Luciano Franchi Benjamin Harnwell

ART OF ITALIAN COFFEE

BLENDS & ROASTING

BLENDS & ROASTING


Of around the eighty or so different types of coffee bean known to exist, only two are used in the production of coffee: Arabica and Robusta. What is true for the production of wine is also true of coffee. If one starts off with inferior raw materials whether grape or coffee bean it doesnt matter how good a production process one uses, or how state-of-the-art the machinery: the end product can only be inferior! You cant polish a turnip. There is also something else to be absolutely clear about when talking of high quality coffee. High quality coffee is a misnomer. All properly produced coffee should be high quality. Only if corners are cut in production will low quality coffee result. To guarantee a good coffee as an end-product, a good torrefazione (or roaster) will do all he can to pay special attention to obtaining the bean. The bean itself is the stone of a drupe (a berry similar to a cherry). There are two ways of getting the drupe from the coffee plant: by hand picking only the ripe drupes of the branch; or by stripping indiscriminately every drupe (and along with it, every leaf) from the branch. In fact, some of the more brazen torrrefazioni say they obtain their drupes by hand, when in reality, the only manual influence is in the stripping of the branches.

It is at this early stage that the intentions of the roaster are revealed. If the roaster is interested in choosing only the ripe drupe, he will be prepared to pay for a more expensive method of harvesting. If he is interested in the cheaper option, he will have the branches stripped (by hand, or even by machine). Either way, it would be pointless for a roaster to talk about the fantastic roasting machinery in his factory in Italy, if a couple of thousand miles away in his plantation he was obtaining his drupes, ripe and unripe alike, with random abandon. The difference between the two methods will be apparent in the processing; the separating of the bean from the drupe-pulp (and leaves if obtained by stripping). A hand picked harvest can basically be washed (120 l/kg), whereas a stripped harvest cannot (the so-called dry, or natural, process). The hand picked coffee will be far more aromatic, pleasantly acidic, and delicate in texture (which is good). The stripped coffee will be sweet (which is bad), have a strong texture (which is also bad), and possibly even possess a woody flavour.

Then there is the roasting process itself. The roasting of the green coffee bean is the crucial element of the whole production process. Only a precise roasting temperature and cycle make the beans free their perfect aroma and flavour. The truly perfectionist torrefazione will roast the different origins separately, and then blend afterwards (because the slight difference of size, weight and humidity of the various origins demand subtly different roasting requirements). Much rides on the skilled blending of the different origins. Single-origin coffees are largely a fashion-driven fad, and cannot compare to a fine espresso that has been artfully blended by an experienced torrefazione. People assume incorrectly that the principle is the same as single-malt versus blended whiskey, when its not. Its the opposite. Again, there are different ways to roast a coffee bean. The longer, more expensive, method is by convection only: roasting by hot-air flow allows more accurate temperature control and better uniformity of roasting: anything below 220oC or above 225oC, and the coffee will taste unpleasantly acidic and bitter. The less expensive method is to heat by conduction as well as by convection: by roasting the bean inside a rotating drum (which is externally flameheated). All other things being equal, the longer the roasting process, the better. The very best roasters in the world can take around 18-20 minutes: those with lower expectations can achieve the burning of their bean in as little as three minutes.

It is only if the roaster bothered to have the drupes hand picked manually, and washed, that he would see the need to bother slow-roasting the beans through convection-only techniques. Had the roaster simply strip-harvested the beans, and dry processed them, he will have lost any subtlety in the coffee he might have hoped to bring out through more precise convection-only roasting.

ART OF ITALIAN COFFEE

GRIND & DOSAGE

GRIND & DOSAGE


This part of preparing the coffee is the most sensitive area in the process: a slight fraction in the size of the coffee grind and there will be a dramatic change to the outcome of the coffee. Grinding the beans too finely can cause over-extraction, which means the coffee will drip out very slowly and when finally extracted it will be very dark in colour with not much crema (the creamy head on top of the espresso created by miniscule oil droplets formed during extraction). Alternatively, grinding the beans too coarse and one will find that the coffee is under-extracted the flow of water is too fast, and the coffee from the grind is only partly able to flow into the cup: one ends up with a very light, weak, cup of espresso. Another factor to keep in mind is a possible temperature and humidity change of the coffee environment after it has been ground. This also affects the flow of coffee. The grind should accordingly be adjusted. The more Robusta in the blend the less sensitive it is to these factors, but the higher the (better-quality) Arabica content, the more difficulty one has. If anyone enjoys drinking Robusta coffee read no further.

Grinding precision for the perfect espresso takes time to achieve, and having an on-demand grinder is the perfect complement to a great blend of coffee. On-demand grinders, which grind the bean straight from the hopper into the group handle (also called a filter holder, or portafiltro), circumvent the possibility that the ground coffee might experience temperature and/or humidity change, and guarantee that a high quality premium blend does not end up a St*rbucks coffee. Furthermore, as soon as a high quality blend has been ground, it immediately starts to deteriorate (the exact chemical process is oxidation). This will be more noticeable in a high-grade coffee because the subtleties of the espresso are far more delicate than in a poorer coffee. The amount of coffee in the group handle, the dosage, has to complement the grind precisely. The recommended dose is between 7g and 8g. Any more, or any less coffee than the amount established for the blend (and the particular grind) and the resulting espresso will be far from satisfactory.

Another good discipline is to ensure the cups are always hot. They are normally stored upside down on top of the espresso machine, which is deliberately steam-vented, through the operation of the machine, to ensure the cups are kept hot to the touch a good machine will cultivate a storage temperature of between 55oC and 60oC. In Italy our espresso is normally referred to as caff, with the amount of coffee in the cup at just under a half. And thats essentially what you get coffee.

The cups should be the appropriate size for the particular coffee: always an espresso cup for an espresso; and a cappuccino cup for a cappuccino. The conventional size is a 2oz cup for an espresso, and a 4oz cup for a cappuccino. The shape is important too. Espresso cups should never have straight edges but should always be based around the standard conical design.

ART OF ITALIAN COFFEE

MACHINES

MACHINES
Coffee Machines are like motorcars they vary in build, quality, size, shape and performance; and ultimately, one gets what one pays for. There are several things for the trained eye to look out for regarding the machine and the shop. Check, for hygiene reasons, that the steam wand (the long thin pipe used for steaming the milk) has a polished appearance and is clean to the eye. There is never an excuse for the disgusting build-up of dried milk on the wand, and this can only mean endemic bad practice. If you do see this unsightly deposit, pick yourself up and leave. Immediately. To have the correct sized machine for the shop is vital for a constant delivery of excellent espressi day after day. Keeping the machine clean and fully-serviced augments the operators performance and gives reassurance, not least to the otherwise unsuspecting customer, that it wont fail when needed.

If the operator integrates into his working practice an instinctive habit of wiping stray grinds off the group handle before twisting it into the group head of the machine, then this will prevent the build-up of dried coffee around the inside of the group head, and the shower head. This action will ensure a satisfactory fit of the group handle inside the group head, and will allow all the water pressure inside the machine to be pushed through the coffee grinds in the group head, and not to escape through the side, causing an under-extracted espresso. Watch out to see whether the machine-operator does this. By far the most common way for an inferior machine to betray itself is by either under-extracting, or over-extracting, the espresso. Espresso machines work by forcing under intense temperature and pressure hot water through very finely compacted coffee grinds, which then collects into the cup below (the temperature of an espresso should be around 67oC). The

Is the coffee bar seeking to impress you by the size of the machine, and snidely serving you minimal quality coffee? Perhaps the shop has a decent coffee, but skimped by buying an inferior machine. The right choice is essential.

golden-brown colour that flows down and rests on top of the espresso the crema is, when appreciated, almost hypnotic to observe. Being able to sustain a nine bar pressure is necessary if the resulting espresso is to be perfect. It is not enough for the machine simply to achieve this pressure the machine must also sustain this pressure right throughout the extraction of the espresso: only the best machines are able to crucially sustain this pressure.

The choice of which machine the coffee bar has chosen will tell a lot about its ambitions. It is simple: an Italian manufacturer should always be the only choice, but if the owner couldnt afford this, and hasnt selected from among the best machines on the market, then he should not be in the business of making coffee in the first place. He certainly shouldnt be making your coffee.

ART OF ITALIAN COFFEE

COFFEE

COFFEE
Espresso can become like religion to some people. Obviously it is not the true religion, which is salvation through Jesus Christ. But it does demand a seriousness and dedication that approaches religion (and if one looks for a good coffee in St*rbucks, it requires a lot of Faith, if not a miracle). When one starts to drink coffee at least twice a day one can recognise the arousal of the various senses. Notice the smell, which is a major part of the experience. Furthermore, this olfactory impact is always, ridiculously, overlooked. Then the explosion on the tongue as the different tastebuds are stimulated. The addition of sugar is sacrilege.

A good quality Arabica espresso can be identified by the pleasant acidic sharp sensation, almost a tingle, along the middle-to-front sides of the tongue; and a rewarding, bitter character dispersed over the centre-rear (this is the caffeine!). A cheap Robusta coffee, or an Arabica coffee that was ground too long before using, will give a horrible stab in the centre of the tongue (similar to over-brewed filter coffee). Around 80% of coffees sold over the counter in the UK are cappuccini and latte, but it is questionable whether a drink which is 90% milk is even coffee. How can something be called coffee when it is 90% milk? People dont realise that the word latte means milk in Italian! Tolerance leads to acceptance: this must stop. Stop funding these people and support the recognition of real Italian coffee.

People have been conned into thinking that more is better, and the cups have correspondingly got larger. The milk therefore has to be hotter, so that the cappuccino is still warm by the end of the cup: the milk has to be so hot, in fact, that it gets burnt. Thus the coffee has not only to be strong enough to be able to emerge through all that milk; but also blended in such a way so as to cover up the taste of the burnt milk itself. To attempt to take a blend geared towards mega-cappuccino as an espresso is to commit tastebud suicide. It is impossible to drink an espresso in these shops because the coffee simply isnt blended to be taken as espresso. These blends are designed to power whole vats of burnt milk with the flavour of coffee.

Cappuccino, which has espresso at its core, is the drink that Italians wake up to. This is where the visually stunning art lies, and the mastery of the product is evident. It is where the sublime, instinctive vision of the coffee master is expressed, and where the texture of the foam must be just right not a single bubble should be allowed to spoil the soft sheen of the rosetta. One knows a truly great cappuccino by the shine on top of the light fluffy texture, and the superb taste. A cappuccino is coffee, milk and foam. Foam, that is, and not froth. It should be even finer than shaving foam. Cappuccino is never hot, and the coffee should always be fully integrated with the milk and foam. Whole milk should always be used, and as with espresso - only a madman would consider adding sugar. The natural sweetness of the milk is aroused when it is at the correct temperature. True connoisseurs will take their cappuccino at around 44.5oC, whilst personal taste can dictate a higher temperature up to 55.5oC. What is quite simply an offence to any civilised society is to permit the sale of cappuccino at 70oC (Caff Nero) or at even a blistering 80oC (Starbucks). If the temperature were only one or two degrees higher than this, nuclear fusion would commence spontaneously. Unless one lives the Italian coffee lifestyle, and seeks the perfect, one might never experience the transcendent apotheosis of coffee. The transmogrification of espresso. As understanding grows, the shorter the coffee becomes. Finally, one might just might be initiated into the mysteries of the ultimate in coffee: ristretto.

Charing Cross Road: CaffetteriaBarRistorante 62 Charing Cross Road, London WC2 H0BU 020 7240 3512
charingcross@caffevergnano1882.co.uk

Southbank: CaffetteriaBarRistorante 10 Festival Terrace SouthBank Centre Belvedere Road, London SE1 8XX 020 7921 9339
southbank@caffevergnano1882.co.uk

New Street Square: CaffetteriaBarRistorante 2 New Street Square London EC4A 3BF 020 7936 3404
newstreet@caffevergnano1882.co.uk

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