An Illustrated Guide

to the art of wire wrapping

Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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sparkle earrings
To be able to use a tiny stone, such as a 3mm or
4mm round, to accent a particular design is why
snap-set heads are one of my favorite findings.
Basic and sweet, these earrings were designed to
show one of the ways to properly set and lock a
stone into a snap-set finding.

materials
2 pc 7" long of 22g square,
2 half-hard wire
2 8mm round snap-set heads
2 8mm round, faceted stones

sparkle earrings
6 4mm round/textured beads
2 pc 3⁄8" long and
4 pc – ½ " long fine chain
1 pair of ear wires
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 Sparkle Earrings step by step
1a
1b
1. P
 repare the snap-set heads (1A).
Occasionally, the prongs on these heads
can become bent during packaging,
shipping, etc. Use flat-nose pliers on
the sides of the prongs and gently push
them back into place (1B).
2. S
 et the stones. Use a wide tape to
make two round segments, with the
sticky side facing out (2A). Put one
of these tape rounds on a solid, flat
surface and place the stone, (crown/
table side down, pavilion up), onto the
tape. Put the other tape round onto
an index finger and put the snap-set
finding on it. Center the finding over
the stone and press down, quickly and
firmly. The stone will “snap” into the
setting. Repeat with the second stone
(2B).
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2a 3
2b 4
3. C
 heck each stone in its setting, to ▲ tip When using smaller snap-set
make sure all of the prongs are snuggly heads, a 22-gauge wire many not fit under
over the edge/girdle of the stone. the stone, try using a 24-gauge instead.
If any of the prongs are not where Square wire is used, as round wire has a
they need to be, place the tip of fine tendency to slip when least desired, and
chain-nose pliers under the stone and cannot be twisted.
gently push it up into the prong.
4. I ndividually twist each 7-inch piece of
wire. On each twisted wire, measure
2 inches down and mark. Choose a
shaping item or tool that is just a bit
smaller than the circumference of the
stone's edge/girdle, (such as a smaller
pair of double-barrel pliers). Center
the shaping item/tool on the 2-inch
mark and bend each wire to form a U
shape.
 7 7C
7A 7B
5. O
 nto each U shape, thread the follow-
ing items in order: 3⁄8 inch of chain,
2mm bead, ½ inch of chain, 2mm
bead, and 3⁄8 inch of chain.
6. Carefully thread each end of the
U-shaped wire into the snap-set, under
the stone, and under the center prong
on each side. Gently work the wires up
through the finding, until the beaded/
chain segment is just under the bottom
of the stone. Repeat on the other
earring.
7. From the top of the finding, wrap the
longer wire completely around the
stone snuggly, just under the prongs/
girdle, and in front of the chain/
bead segment. When this longer wire
meets the shorter wire again at the
8 10
top, straighten the shorter wire and
wrap the longer one around it twice
(7A), ending with this wire at a 90º
angle to the earring (7B). Repeat this
procedure, in the opposite direction on
the other earring (7C).
8. P
 lace a shaping tool against the
shorter stem, just above the wrap,
and bend the longer wire over the
tool at a 90º angle. Repeat in the op-
posite direction on the other earring.
▲ tip One of the barrel pliers is used
here, however any shape may be chosen.
Example: the outside of V-making pliers
would work well when using bicone beads.
9
9. Thread two 4mm beads onto the
straight wire. Repeat on the other
earring.
10. Place a “just smaller” shaping tool
against the bead stem and repeat the
above Steps 8 and 9, adding only one
bead this time. After adding the bead,
wrap the longer wire around the bead
stem, immediately above the last bead
added, one full time.
sparkle earrings
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 project gallery

Free-form Orbit
ring

Angel Chandelier
earrings

Pronged-frame
Gemstone necklace

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 contents
Introduction
Wired Words
Overview of wire gauges, styles, tempers,
and shapes used in book projects
Tools and Their Techniques
Pliers ~ The Basic Four
Beads All Around Specialty Forming Tools
bracelet Other Handy Supplies
Section I ~ Rings
Helpful Tips for Creating Wire Jewelry Ring Designs
How to Properly Size Rings
Ring Size Chart
+ Free-form Orbit Ring
+ Crystal Wave Ring
+ Sparkling Finger Bauble
+ Filigree Pearl Ring
Section II ~ Bracelets
Helpful Tips for Creating Wire Jewelry Bracelets
Basic Bracelet Sizing Formula
Shaping and Finishing Wire Bracelets
Hook-and-Eye Clasps
Resizing Bracelets Quickly
+ Chevron Base Bracelet
+ Ornate Cabochon Bracelet Topping
Crystal Wave + Beads All Around Clasp Bangle
ring Section III ~ Earrings
Helpful Tips for Creating Wire Earrings
Ear Wire Designs
+ Angel Chandeliers
+ Gem Drops
+ Ear Sparkles
Section IV ~ Pendants and Necklaces
Helpful Tips for Creating Pendants
+ Mixed Wire Cabochon Fish
+ Pronged-frame Gemstone
+ ‘Orbit’ Prong Gemstone
+ Drop Necklace Base
+ Gemstone/Cabachon Drop for Attachment

project gallery
Project Gallery
Notes from the Author
Resources
Index
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 Take your wire jewelry
design to new levels!
Achieve the look of designer wireworked jewelry with this step-by-
step guide for the intermediate artist seeking new design possibilities
combined with solid technique instruction. Dale “Cougar” Armstrong
showcases her classic jewelry style with 18 projects and traditional
wireworking techniques using hard wire.

Inside readers will learn:

+M aterials, supplies, and techniques that show how to work with
hard wire (14k and 18k).

+ I nstructions for making beautiful custom bracelets, necklaces, pen-

dants, earrings, pins, rings—even a tiara!—that incorporate detailed
designs, faceted stones, cabochons, and beads, all with step-by-step
instructions and photographs.

+ F undamental techniques like wire wrapping faceted stones, how to

creating pendants with any size or shape of stone, setting faceted
stones, plus mixing wire gauges and tempers to create stable yet
creative pieces, and more!

+ I nspirational ideas from a project gallery that features techniques

used in the book.

Wirework will challenge artists to be creative, think outside the box,

and transform jewelry into their own style.

Dale “Cougar” Armstrong is a self-described “rockhound” with a back-

ground in metal work prior to making wire jewelry. She teaches workshops nation-
ally, where she is known for her tips and tricks called “Cougarisms,” and she has
Paperbound, 8½ x 9, 128 pages participated in many juried shows. She lives in Tennessee.
250 photographs
ISBN 978-1-59668-088-3
$22.95
June 2009

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