Because my button

supply was stored

in one small box,

PLAY AND WIN!

What is it? Pictured above is part of a photo from this issue. When you find it, enter online at sewnews.com or send a postcard with the page you found it on to Sew News, Hide & Seek, 741 Corporate Circle, Ste. A, Golden, CO 80401. (Entries in envelopes will
not be accepted.) Responses are due

I had trouble finding the right button to use for my p@ects. I placed a candle
in the ccnter of a plate, and scattered my button supply
around the candle. The centerpiece not only made it easier

to find my buttons, but it also made a nice decoration for

my sewing r00rn.
Tina T, Austin, TX

JUNE 20,2008. From

the correct responses, we'll randomly draw five winners. One could be you!

fusible clues
When working with fusible interfacing and fusible web, remember to prewash the fabric to remove the sizing. In addition, don't use fabric softener or dryer sheets as they can interfere with the adhesive action of the fusible product. Do follow the manufacturer's directions for iron temperature setting, whether to use a steam or a press cloth, and whether to use a gliding motion or only pressure. Deborah G., Rochester NY

eye on you
When you thread a needle, don't wet

Winners will receive a $25 gift certificate to Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft Stores.

the thread-wet the back of the needle instead. The moisture on the back of the needle wicks the thread right through the needle's eye.
Pamela McCoy, e-mail

srzeo up
Keep different sized masking tape rolls with your sewing supplies. When you need a bias strip, place a piece of tape on the fabric's true bias, cut along both tape edges, and then remove the tape.
AdellO., Estes Park, CO

.l

Congratulations!
The following ten people found the picture of the
Uncommon Objects sign

on page 15 in Jan/Feb'08: Carol Borkiewicz, Tolland, CT; Gail Deaner, Lawrence, NY; Linda Fifer, Rio Linda, CA;Julia Jones, Attalla, AL; Debra Keberle,
Jacksonville, OR; Phyllis Malinov, Lords Valley, PA; Velda Meyer, Norfolk, NE; Wayne Myroth, Rochelle, lL; Eleanor Shilling, Schenectady, NY; Pamela Simmons, Liberty, TX.

stick with it
I've wasted a lot of time looking for my serger's cleaning brush. To solve this problem, I put a piece of hook-and-loop taoe on the brush handle and another piece of hook-and-loop tape on the serger's side. I attached the brush to the machine, and I no longer waste any time looking for the brush.
Pat H., Rochelle Park, NJ

ro

SeWnews JUNE / JULY 2oo8

.wgsffi Wffiffiffi
ch-ch-cho nges
I

just wanted to let ),ou kntttt, ltout muclt

r.uas

ftiue Sew News. I

subscribed to tlrc maga-

zine back ulrcn tlrc publication

newsprint -form. Ouer the years,

in

lough it up
I
loucd tlrc articlc

didn't

"Hilttt'or Nrr?".fiortt

-find the nmgazine clnllengillq anyftrcre so I canceled my subscription. But I recerilllt picked up an issue, and utas pleasantb, surprised uith all of tlrc netu clunges and
array sf 6lrollenging prctiects.Tlmnk you -for publishing articlcs u,ritten by Claire

tlrcJan/Fcb'08 Serv Nervs. I.fiumd

thc dctails dbtuft corrttrrc, its listttr), iltd d i s ti n.g i s I i r 4q c I a rnct c r i s t i cs ;fio r r t't' d d 1t - |
t r 1t

rucar pdrticrilarl), intcrcstirry.

nlso

utjol,ti

tlrc drticle "Sccttttdltarrd

-sarrc
i.s-srrc.

Srcn/.s

".fiortt tltt,
ttf'crcatitt.q

eye on interfocing
Tlrarfu
1t1t11.fitv

Slnffir

I loyt' rlrc clmllar.qt'

-fitttn tlilli

yfulislirt.q "E1'1' 1t11

and Sandra Betzina as u,ell-I admire tlrcm both and tse tlrcir books -for refcrencc.
Plcase stay
1,1t11'1tg

sorncthing column

11g11t

ston' .firrds.
t tt't t,

Addition all),, Litt dd X'lacPl u'c's

htcfiddrt.q" irt tlrc JmrlFi'| '08 Serv Nervs. I irilcrfnicd rt,itlt ttrqart:,t .faltric and Itad rptutdt'tftil rcttlts. I lt'nrtt sottrt'tltin.q psr) ('1,(ry issttc. Tltattk 1,tttt.
Carole 5., Riverside, CA

yotry offrent -fttrmat as cttttuinced nrc ttt subscribe again!

uith

"Tlrc

lttst Lulqlt "

plonli-sc-s

ttt bt'-fim. Kccp rrp tlrc larghtcr! Ruth 5., e-mail

Nancy W., Brighton, Ml

MISLABEi-ED
T'hc articlc "Ba-sir-s; C()ufiff(' HLiltd S('r,i{q"

from

the

Jan/Feb '08 Serv Nervs

c()nt(titts

ail

err()r.'I-|rc picturc of- tlrc rdipsrirclt is

laltclcd sliltstitch mtd uict' uct'sn.Tlt( articlc

is still cxccllatt, hrt tlrc rttix-trp corild

nufusiltg f() a ncu)
sut,ct"

ltc

i YES! WE WANT TO HEAR I FROM YOU-the good. tlre bad I and the ugly Tell us lrhat yoLt like disI lrke and lvhat you vvant to see more of. I Send letters to:

Anne, e-mail

'?.'t,,,'

',i:;i,.

,*

r;$i

gg+

ffi#ffiffi .. ' /,

*1*---t
-l ^:31

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Sewnews.com

tl

PH0T0GRAPHER: D0NNA BICE DONNA RICE PHOTOGRAPNY

0F

Fundraiser to Pre'scttt

Homeler

Ernbrace

Change

.Join the

fight to end homelessness

by poriicipoting in the

3rd Annuol

Bogs2Riches hondbcg competition.

Submit o cne-of-o-kind hondbca to be

fectured in c fcshron show ond ouction in downtown Indionopolis. Event ottendees will purchose votes for their fcvorite bogs bosed on origincli!,

FALL FEAST

unique elemenls ond quolity of workmonship. Proceeds generoted from the votes cnd hondbog scles benefit Trusted Poriners, on orgoni-

zoiion thot provides oid ond mentoring lo individucls cnd fcmilies

nometessness prevention pfogfoms. The deodline io enier is August

in

HOW-TO

20

2008.

Frnd out how to get involved

ot bogs2richesindy.org.

-fhe annual American Sewing Guild Conference is se1 for July 10 to 14, 2008 irt Chrcago Meet fellow sen,ers, gain new ideas and techniques. and qet ready to shopr trll yoLl di-opi For ilore
information. vistt asg.org

Mark Your Calendar

r2

SeWrteu's JUNE/JUtY 2OO8

Hdra*etiuna} Quilts
Bless

This Child Designs brings you a fun way to connect

with your children or grandchildren through the creation of adorable interactive quilts. BlessThis Child quilt patterns
feature familiar stories and nursery rhyntes, such as Old

MacDonald and Litde Boy tslue.The finished quilts provide children with the opportunity to develop language, nlath,
music and small manipulative skills.And owner Shannon

Klahr understauds the value of giving back; she donates

1,j

portion of her earnings to charitable and environtnental

organizations and utilizes recycled paper irr the production

of the patterns. For nrore infornration or to order patterns,

visit blessthischilddesigns. cour.

Don't rttiss
Festival,

Anlilll Ci',r-; tra Ci-eatti'''e cctllit-lcl to Oirlc ilirai t,lrl .lirrre 2(;
tl-re 5ti-

to 28. 2006 lts a gi'eat oi-rrlottrll'lltlr i3 r1r'L inspireci, finci lt-ricrrte 1--r'oclLtcts ;,rrlcl stlilill es learn new skills or frrle-i,lrrC -i'citr otcl rJi-r! Also excititrg rs tlle ctratrce lc :re;ii'ii-orn tcp
indr-rstry experls, sttch as clLriiier K.tve "'tcoi.l and Ser,v News corrtrtbrttcr Satrdt-a Belz' ,r

And don't r,vorr\r if 'you can'1 {rrake i io i Miowest. The Oriorrlali Ci-trllt,"e ri,.-, ',.'
novtt tn uql u(vvcr Sn'inn.- \l\ Lv Q,entnr-r: vl/r ' 'YU
I lun

r:r

-'
,,1

To find ottt nlore aboLrt attetlc]ltlti tire

*"",

go to pcmexpo.cortr

DAD'S DAY IDEAS I st* a speciat sift this Father's Dav, June 15.
SHARP-DRESSING DAD:

made-to-measure

necktie

AUT0-I0UER DAD: over-the-seat car organizer

G0URMET DAD: monogrammed aPron
TEGHNO DAD:

or cell-phone case golf- or tennis-shoe bags tool belt or smock

SP0RTY DAD:

HANDY DAD: custom

tBasicsl

Pattern
NICK COMAN

ng
^----**

USE THE

T MANIPULATION
ES fronr Pattermrakins

the Aprii/May '08 Scttr Ncrus to patterns for a cute oucfit that hruates your figr,rre and fits your style.

SewnewS

If you don't feel

confident enaugh fn yaur patternmaking skfils fo
WHATYOU'LL NEED Start drawing again after pivot

Full-size bodice, sleeve and skirt slopers (such as those available at

pattern.strin gcodes.com)

futl-sire pztterns, practice

by

make

f{rst maktng
Former

Pattem paper (such as butcher or freezer paper)

alteratians using the half-size slaper.

. Tracing paper

bust dart

. . . .
.

Mechanicalpencilwith 7 mm lead
Fine-tip marker for final tacing
Clear tape Clear ruler and French curve

Stiletto wheel (optional)

. Awl (optional)

Blouse Pattern
The featured blouse pattern begins

with

a basic bodice and sleeve sloper.

The blouse is fitted with a short shirttail hem, button front, convertible collar, scoop neck and cap sleeves. Open tucks take the place of the side dart and a portion of the lower dart. This pattern incorporates both the
slash-and-spread and pivot-and-slide dart manipulation techniques. The measurements indicated are for a

Holding the sloper securely, position a pencil point in the bust-point hole. Pivot the sloper counterclockwise until the upper-dart leg is even with the lower-side dart leg. Tiace around the bodice from the center shoulder-line mark to the side-dart mark.
Remove the sloper.
sarne,

dart leg up to, but not through, the apex. Close it until there's enough space created between the slashed lines on the side seam (2).
Arrange the seam-side cuts so that they're equidistant. Position a piece

of

The waist dart is the but the fullness from the side dart

paper behind the cut openings and tape the cum in place. These are the tucks.
Greate a lower, more open neckline.

has been transferred

to the shoulder to

create the new shoulder dart (1). Mark the side seam at three evenly
spaced intervals starting about

Mark the shoulder

/r" to the left of the shoulder/neck point. Mark the center

front 1" down from center front/neck point. Connect the nvo points by
tracing around a French curve (3).
Add a front button extension beyond the center front by adding %" plus the desired button rvidth. For example, a

2"

down

firll-size pattern. full-size two-dart front bodice sloper onto a clean sheet of pattern paper. Never make alterations directly on the sloper. Cut out the newly traced sloper. Using an awl or a pin, make a small hole at the apex ftust point).
Gopy the

from the side seam/arrrueye intersection. The nrarks should be rbout 7/2" to 2" apart at the side edge. Draw lines
connecting the side seam marks with the apex. Cut along the connecting lines to, but not through, the apex. the inner shoulder-dart leg to, but not through, the apex so that you have a small paper hinge.
Gut

/r"

wtde butcon plus/a"

: /""

(4).

To create

Position the new sloper on new paper.

Mark the shoulder line halfway

between the shoulder and neck point. Tiace around the sloper, beginning at the side-dart lower notch. Tiace down and around counterclockwise until meeting the shoulder-line mark. Mark the waist-dart notches.

by sliding the cut dart leg toward the neck-point side until it meets the other dart leg.The cuts on the side seam will open. If you dont end up with at least a /r" space bet'ween each section. cut one waist
Close the shoulder dart

the blouse hemline shape, 4" down from the buttonhole extension/waist corner. Align the front skirt-sloper center-front line with the bodice center-front line. Trace the skirt side seam for tbout 2" . Redraw the hem freehand or by using a French curve, creating a curved shirttail shape that connects the new side seam and center-front seam (5).
square a

line

JUNE/JUtY

Spread on

tuck lines

Close

waist dart partially

Trace the blouse pattern outline

on

clean piece of paper, making sure to mark the sleeve and tuck notches. Fold

the tucks with the excess downward at the side seam and trace over them with a stiletto wheel, or tape the tucks in place and trim the side seam with scissors.'When opened, the tucks at the
side seam

will be

shaped.

Draw 1"-long lines from the tucks toward the apex. Draw a cross mark at the end of each line to show where the stitching will end (6).
For the front facing, position a new piece of tracing paper over the finished pattern, and trace the fi''ont edge from the hem to the shoulder/neck point. Draw a line 2" rn from the centerfront edge-the facing width rrra,y v ry according to your personal taste and size (7). Label this piece "front facing" and note to cut two from the fabric and two from the interfacing.

It's important ta label

every pattern piece that you create. Tltese marks and labels will save yau ttme and confusian when

you cut out and construct the garment.

back, close the shoulder dart by pivoting it into the waist dart using the same method as described for the bodice front. [Jse the waist-dart point as the pivot point.
For the blouse

Drop the back neckline /r" at the center back and take out /2" at the shoulder/ neckline point.

Draw a 4"-long line extending from the

center-back corner. Align the back skirt sloper with that line. Tirace down the skirt side seam for about 2" .lf the

sewnews.com

r9

Mast quilting rulers have a

45" line that's ttelpful when marking ttte bias. If you dan't ltave a quilting ruler, mark a harizontal line across the vertical grainline an your pattern. FoId one vertical line anto ane hCIrizontal line and crease lightly. The resulting creased line wtll lie between the harizontat and vertical grainl.ines at a 45o angle.

Add a 1lz" seam allowance to all pattern

piece outer edges. If you're more comfortable working with wider seams, add nlore to the seam allowance. bodice and skirt side seams dont align perfectly, blend a line berween the two to create a visually appealing side seam. Draw a curved line connecting the 4" and 2" lines to create the shirttail henrline (8).
Create a neck facing for the back the

sure to mark all the notches and the sleeve-cap center (10).

Skirt Pattern
The featured skirt begins with the basic skirt sloper. The skirt shape will remain straight, but the waist darts are replaced by a fitted yoke that's faced at the waistline. The skirt has side slits and is cut on the bias for ease of movement. The skirt has a side zip closure.
To create the

for the front. However, trace only the neckline, not the centersame way as

collar, position the fronr and back patterns flat with shoulder searr touching. Overlap the two shoulder poincs by /r" each.This gives the collar a bit of roll. Dont overlap the neck-edge points.
To create the

back line, as the back bodice and facing pieces will be cut on the fold. Label this piece "back-neck facing" and note to cut one fabric and one intefacing piece (9).
Trace the new back

Position a clean sheet of paper over rhe tvvo patterns and trace the front and

skirt yoke, mark

4"

down

pattelr on paper;

back bodice neckline. Square a line down from center back as wide as you want the collar to be (it *tll roll, so make sure there's enough paper).The Gatured collar is 2" wide (11).
Measure and mark from the neckline edge into the body 2" a7l the way around. Connect the marks. In this case the collar is worn open at the neck, so an overlap isnt necessary. The collar

on the center-front seam and 4"on the skirt-front side seam (light pencil marks

will

do).

cut it out.
To make the cap-sleeve pattern, fface rhe

sleeve sloper

onto a new sheet of paper.

Draw lines extending l

sleeve side edges.

" down on

0n a clean piece of paper, fface the upper skirt from the center-front mark up and around to the side-seam mark. Remember to mark the dart notches and point marks. Connect the 4" marks with a line parallel to the waisdine.
Slash one dart leg to, but not through,

the

This is the underarm seam. Connect the rwo lines. Make

front is square, but it may also be rounded or pointed if you prefer.

the dart point. Then slash up from the

JUNE/JUtY

yoke lower edge to, but not through, the dart point, forming a paper hinge. Close this dart by moving it toward the other dart leg. A small amount of space will open up under the hinge for needed ease. Fill in this space with scrap paper; tape in place (12). Repeat for the second dart.
Repeat this step

Repeat for the skirt hack.

The back darts

will extend beyond the yoke line into the skirt body, but this fullness will be
into the back-voke seam durins construction (14).
eased Trace the skirt front and back

on the

paper fold because the skirt fabric

will
Slash & close

to create the back skirt

yoke.The difference between the front

and back pieces is that the back darts are longer, extending past the yoke lower edge.When you slash through the back darts, you wont need to slash up from the lower edge to create a paper hinge (13).
This curved yoke piece serves as both the skirt yoke and yoke facing.'Write "Cut rwo on fold" on each piece.
For the skirt body, cut a clean piece of paper a little more than twice the skirt sloper width and slighdy longer than

be cut on the bias. Bias-cut pattern pieces are always cut as one in order for the grainline to fall correctly. Cut out the new pattern pieces on the fold to create whole skirt pattern pieces rather than half.
To indicate the bias grainline

on the skirt body pieces, draw a line at a 45"

angle to the vertical grainline. Mark the zipper placement on the skirt

by abutting the yoke pattern lower edge and the skirt pattern upper edge. Mark the skirt pattern with a notchT" to 9" down from the yoke upper edge.
Determine the side slit length and mark

the finished skirt. Fold the paper lengthwise. Position the skirt center front on the fold; trace the skirt from the 4" marks down the side seam across the hem and to the center-front edge.
Draw a smooth curved line from the side to the center front where the

the skirt side seams at this measurement. Even though the skirt is cut on the bias, it's still srraight enough that it
needs walking ease from the slits. Add the seam allowance to each pattern

seam

outer edge.

x
Center back

yoke piece begins.

Nick Coman began sewing and patternmaking very early in life by making clothes for his action figures. He didn't consider sewing as a career until his 30s, when he attended the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising. Today, he creates custom garments and art quilts from his studio and teaches and lectures nationally. Nick lives in Los Angeles with his partner and three cats: Wasabi, Squeek and Tiger.

resources
Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong; Harper & Row, 1987. Designing Apparel Through the Flat Pattern,6th Edition by Ernestine Kopp, Vittorina Rolfo, Beatrice Zelin, Lee Gross; Fairchild Fashion and Merchandising Group, 1991 .

String Codes Designs, pattern.stringcodes.com, carries

pre-made or custom quarter-, half- and full-size slopers.

sewnews.com

2r

HAS THIS EVER HAPPENED TO YOU?You finally find a pair of pants that looks and feels great. But when

Take off the pants and

rub chalk along the pin on the fabric wrong side.

Remove the pin and measure the distance berween the nvo chalk marks (2); record. This is the amount that the crotch seam needs to be shortened.
Lay the pants flat with the inseams and side seams aligned. Position the pants so the left pant leg is out of the way and

you rurn around and look in the mirror, the dreaded saggy seat is staring you in the face. Don't worry.You'll be surprised at how easily you can fix
this problem.
Generally, when people experience

i*.

a sagging seat there's plenry of room in the pants upper leg. The problem isnt that the pans are too big around the body, but rather that the crotch is

the inseam of the right leg is visible.

Locate the crotch point (where the inseams meet seanr). Measure

too long.

Quick Fix
Try on the pants.

the center-back/front from the crotch point

Pinch out the excess fabric at ttre seat by rnaking a pleat across the center-back seam;pin in
the
sag.

torvard the panm back the length the crotch needs shortened. Mark this point rcross the center-back seam (3).
The inseam angles slightly forward from

place (1). Pinch just enough to remove

above the knee up to the crotch. Using

r
I
t ! I

frne pant-Ieg seam allawsnce mfry be

a bit lonEer than the

Sev,t

I
I t t t

sther. Tii!s length needs i0 crotcl: tc the knee, aTTd th:: :.' fn fhe {tatch. Evenlv dislrtr. ','
::.,

,;:ied

'

ane inseflnt fram t.he :he ather insearn F cm the knee

j'ullness"

in.

::,i;ot

Crotch

Amount to shorten

rffi
SeWnews JUNE/JutY 2oo8

sesf sswy
When you take a considerable amount away from the crotch length, the curve of the seat seam is changed. To fix this, redraw the seat curve. This is best done in small increments until you feel comfortable with the technique. Using a straight edge and chalk, draw a line to extend the horizontal part of the seam beyond the inseam (A). Redraw the center-back seam from the hip area to the horizontal line (B). Draw a curved line that connects the two lines (G). Baste along the drawn line. Try on the pants to check the fit. When you're satisfied with the results, stitch along the line and remove the basting stitches. Trim away the excess fabric from the curve area. Trim just enough so you're able to press open the seam.

a ruler and beginning from the previous mark, chdk-mark a line that gradually blends into the seamline above the

Leaving the back irueam wide dlows tor future adjusmrent possibilities. Tbim the
seam using

pinking shean. Or serge- or

knee (4). (If you need more room in the thigh, use a French curve to draw the line.)
Repeat to draw a new seamline on the opposite pant leg.

zigzag-fintsh the seam;press open.

In Stitches
the centerback seam from just in front of the inseam to just beyond the new seamline. Remove the inseam stitching to just below the point where the new seamline meets the old seamline.
Remove the stitching along

in the crotch wider searn as much as possible in the stitching (5). (If you removed a considerable amount of length, you may need to redraw the seat curve. See "Seat S.r.ty" at right for
Besew the center seam
area, catching the

instructions.) Press the seat seam.

Press out the crease in the back of the pant leg. Align the inseam and side searn, making sure the center-front crease is smooth. Press a new crease in the back of the pant leg, blending into

the original crease near the knee.

Align the front seamline and the new back seamline and pin along the seam, pointing the pins toward the beginning of the seam. Sritch the inseam. Try on the pants and check the fit. Make sure that the seat isnt too tight.
Trim the excess fabric

from the back

inseam, but leave about

I" to 1/r"

Pati Cook is an award winning quilter and teacher who has been sewing since junior high. She's worked as an alterations tailor and seamstress, taught sewing and quilting, and holds a degree in Clothing and Textiles from the University of Arizona.

more fabric than originally allowed.

Grotch

Center-back seam

point

Pin along the seamline wittt the ptns painting taward ttte beginntng of the seam to help control the fullness.

Originalinseam

sewnew5.colll

23

Bleaching & Stamps

(-orrrl-,rnc bleach, stalrlps and enrbroir]cn' ro create beautiftil fashions and n hrnrsical honre-d6cor proiects.

()rrtrast. 100')/o cotton

fbr the best or linert re:tcts

crv well when bleach is .rppliecl. \\'l'ren dye is appliecl to rhc fibers
r

bctbre or after spinnins. rhe bleach n.rll best renlove the color. Check the

tiber cor-rtent or test flrst to see the

blcach reaction.

fbr rhis rechnique.

k's

rhicker and qir,'es vori lllore coutrol rlnring applicarion rhan liquid bleach.
use polyester thread because polvester won't

re;rct to bleach.

Ii

startrpine first to

cl'eate an allover background

or

stanrping around rhe enrbroidered ;rrea, as in the feanrred sanrples, any

enrbroidery thread will lvork. spollge wpes or

found objects---such
creating desierls.

as erasers and

fondant clltters-work well for

24

SCWnervs JUNE

JULY 2oo8

Paisley designs: Starbird Inc., Fall Paisley Collection, Paisley Outline #1

(cD0815o6TH)
Paisley Outline #2

(cD081506T1)
Paisley Outline #5

(cDo81506T0)

and on a surface that cant be damaged by bleach.

the arrangement. Chaik-mark the

design placement and cross marks for each design.

or wear an apron

to avoid damaging clothing with

splash marks.Wear rubber gloves to

protect skin from bleach.

of mesh cut-away stabilizer, and spray the stabilizer with tenlporary adhesive. Adhere the wrong side of the jacket area to be
embroidered to the stabfizer, ,ligttttg the guide marks. Pin outside the embroidery area for extra hold. Embroider the design. lJse a large hoop and soflware to combine designs and save hoopings, if available.
the jacket and cut away the
excess stabfizer.

on the fabric

with water (rinse out or

use

d"-p

cloth).

Enhance a basic denim swing jacket

with strategically placed contrasting

stamps and embroidery.

and

monofilamenr thread to sew glass and bugle beads to the stamp designs.

ro embroider the remaining

designs.

Outline the designs with beads, sew a few bugle beads inside the designs,
create a random pattern ofbeads, etc.

around the

:',, under the iacket work

area

design edges.

to avoid soak-through

frothe lining back in place.'*

the bleach.

onto
paper plate.

Annette Bailey is the editor of Creative Machine

Embroidey magazine.

open a portion of-

,, :

:,

to coat the bottom of

For more information. visit cmemag.com.

the lining to reveal the denim on one front side. Pin or clip it out of the way of the work area to avoid catching it in

a stamp with bleach.

the stitching.

apply the bleach.

to the

embroidery area wrong side following the manufacturer's instructions.

of the
embroidery designs.
and

positioning stamps randomly around and within the enbroidery designs. Place a few at the opposite side collar area. Reapply bleach as desired to create more color contrast. Let the bleach dry
completely.

rrove them around until satisfied with

Sewnews.com

2sl

)ew
wifh elcirc Shceifer

ft

Li i=,:

* r i* G

i-r'.:

Lingerie guards control the straps of undergarments to preverlt them from showing or falling off the shoulders. Thev're also used to control the upper part of the bodice to prevent the shoulder seanls fronr shifting and sliding and the neckline from gaping. Lineerie guards are made of ribbon, narrow silk tubes, seam binding or thread. Lingerie guards are usuall,v located at the shoulders, but they can be placed at anv strategic location. Garments with narrow shoulder stmps can have guards at the corners of the neckline on thc hont and back as well as at the top of the shoulders.
i]

'"d

iacemeni

To facilitate dressinq. a snap is always located near the neck edge with the other end of the lingerie guard near the shoulder. On regular-rvidth shoulder seams, place the lingerie guard at the center of the shoulder seanl. For a narrow shoulder strap, place the snap about /o" front the neck edge. For a wide neckline, place the guard near the neck edge. For cut-;r\\':N' armholes, place the guard nearer the shoulder edge.

Thrend Gi- .,, 'i-.

Thread a fiee{li;.- u'ith a sinele strand of waxed thread. Sew the snflp si,r:.:'i.:i to the garment

or lining. Sew rwo or three stitches in the first hole, then run the needle berween the fabric layers and bring it out of the nexr hole (1).
seam allowance, f:rcing

Anchorthe gnri .:r 1i;; thread about

snap socket.

I"

to 2" fiom the

Us* yomr fi*i;*t:= to nrake a thread chain (2). To avoid unattractive dips on the shoulders when the garment is worn, make the thread chain about /0" longer than the
CARL0S
l\il

ARREN0 ILLUSTRATI0N

Claire Shaeffer is internationally known for her expertise on couture sewing techniques. She is the author of 17 books including Couture Sewing Techniques, High Fashion Sewing Secrets from the Woild's Best Designers, Claire Shaeffels Fabric Sewing Guide and Sew Any Fabric. Claire designs the Custom Couture Collection of patterns for Vogue Patterns. She teaches couture workshops in Palm Springs, CA. For more information, e-mail Claire at sewfari@earthlink.net.

28

SeWneus JUNE / tuLY 2oo8

r
I t I I I I I
I

or llutiurj i"ftr:irrs, l,yfix frrld pre$'.i fiie fftrerucf li: n:nfte lf slrot;lirt filliJ fo pruvenf ft,ft"arn iuriing or frvisiiriEl as yoil sell'li
i,{,?en lnafring pcfnnitiieltl slffdrss the ribbon end in place on the shoulder seam, facing or lining.Then sew both sides about /0" frorn the end (5).
Hepear

distance berween the socket and the anchored end, but not so long that

the chain will show on very narrow shoulder straps. Fick up the snap hal!; then insert the needle into the last loop on the thread

to stitch the other guard in

place.

(3). Pull the needle through to end

the chain.
T* fasien tire thread on the snap ball, rnake several blanket stitches in the hole. Make several backstitches on the last blanket stitch and cut the thread.
Press the snap sectiotts together.

Fchric Tube Gun r#s

Hevi*w the instructions for making thread and

ribbon

straps.

Sew the snap

sockets

onto the

garment.
To nrafte the tuhes, cut tvvo 1/r" x4" strips of lighrweight silk on the lengthwise grain. Fold each strip in half lengthwise with right sides together;
a

Ribbon Guards
For two lingerie guards, use 8" of /0" -wrde satin or grosgrain ribbon. fieview the instructions for makins
thread strap.

stitch

/0" frorn the folded

edge.

Tiim

the seam allowances to /"" (6). Turn the tubes right side out;press.
Fold unrier *ne enrl of one tube; stitch. Cover the raw edge with the ball of the snap; sew the snap in place. Repeat to sew the remaining snap ball on the

tlr* rihhnn l*ngth in half. Fold under one end of one ribbon. Cover the ribbon raw edge with the ball of one
Cut

Sew the ball of the srlap to the ribbon (4). Repeat to sew the other snap ball in place on the other ribbon.
snap.

other tube.
Snap ane ball and socket together.Trim the rube end to the appropriate length. Fold under the end and sew the tube in place on the garment shoulder seam or lining. Repe;lt to stitch the other guard

$ew tfue snap sockets onto the garment. If the shoulder seam is wide, sew the socket in the center of the sean. If the neckline is cut away, sew the socket near the neckline. If the arnfiole is cutaway, sew it near the shoulder.
$llnp *i;n *all to one socket. Cut the guard the appropriate length. Fold under the raw end. Use a fell stitch to stitch

in

place.

sewnews.colll

29

Tffiry

$ffiw$ru#
Y#ry$
A slinky knit A-line or sored skirt in
a dark color is a great I)revent darts, shoulder, neckline and travel companion. crotch seams frorri stretching by sewing the seams through /0" -wrde clear elasdc. Slink,v fabric garments will lengthen as they're worn, so hetn them T/r" shorter than the desired lenEh. Prevent wav]' sernrs in knits by lowering the upper tension and lenethenins the stitch. Always use a 75/1.1 HS needle for machine sewing knits.

It's no fun to be cold on a trip, but a heavy coat takes up a lot of roonl in vour suitcase. Make an unlined nrohair coat

Mohair is lighrweight vet warm, especially when l.r'ered over other pieces. To prevent the coat seanr fronr stretching as you sew position a 2" -wide
as a sensible altern.rtir,'e.

ds{s
dflF##' i* -# #4

*sds

layers.

strip of silk organza berween the presser foot and the mohair Tiim the seanrs to t/"", and wrap the organza around the raw edges for a clean finish.

Sandra Betzina designs patterns for Vogue under the Todays Fit label, writes a fitting column for Vogue Pattern magazine. rs the author of More Fabilc Savvy, Fast Fit, Power Sewing Step By Slep and Sandra Betzina Sews for the Home, has produced nine instructronal DVDs and conducts
week-long sewing retreats in San Francisco. For more information, visit
CARLOS MARRENO ILLUSTRATION

sandrabetzina.com or call (415\ 876-2434.

30

SeWnews JUNEIJULY 2oo8

A lighnveight raincoat with

a hood is more practical than an umbrella for travel. Raincoag offer more protection from the elements and they pack easily.When you sew a raincoat, ffeat the needle holes with seam sealant. (Refer to More Fabic Sawy for more tips on how to sew on raincoatappropriate fabrics.)

i],..'i:-.

l-l

Fn***: ffi*$*ram*
Leave your iron behind when you're on a trip. No fabric travels better than sueded microfiber (also known as stretch suede or stretch moleskin). Sueded microfiber never wrinkles, it can be hand washed and air-dried, and it looks

(Jnless you're going to a ffopical climate,leave whites and bright colors at home. Instead, take versatile dark basics in charcoal gray, black or dark brown that work with your foowvear. Change your look with accessories, such as colorfirl scarves or a large tote. Leave precious jewelry at home for safekeeping, but take fun earrings and bracelets in bright

colors to give a lift to your dark basics.

perfecdy fresh without pressing.When sewing on sueded microfiber, always use a new 70/1,0 HJ needle. Serge-finish searns together, as flat-felled seams on this fabric tend

to pucker.
You'll definitely want to bring home souvenirs and treasures from your trip, but dont overstuff your suitcase. Bring a [ghtweight canvas zippered tote with you for the return
overdow.
,,i"-i , ,,:
I

S)$eas* Pleat fir'te

Permanendy pleated separates are great pieces to take along on a trip. However, many sewers are worried that these garments cant be hemmed without getting a letuce-leaf effect. Not so! For best results, cut off the excess garment length. Set the serger for a rolled hem with stitches that arent too close together. As you serge the lower edge, place your finger behind the presser foot as when easing on a conventional machine (some stretching will occur). Roll up the hem and slip the garment into the ribbed part of a sock. Steam well around the sock and allow the sock to

Since shoes are bulky and weigh down luggage,limit the number of pairs you take. Most likeh all you'll need is one pair of comfy feminine flats, one pair of dressy shoes and one pair of flat boos.All three pairs should be the same colorblack or dark brown is most versatile----*o they all match with one purse.

dry completely.

Sondro's PATTERN PICKS from her Vogue Todoy's Flt !obe1,

Visit voguepotterns.com to view ond order Sondro's potterns.

Sewnews.com

Smock On
What technique marks and tacks fabric from the wrong side to create a trellis look on the right side?
Katherine

slack between

Moue down to C, keeping the thread A/B and C. Repeat the

previous sequence, taking a small sritch at C, then diagonally up to D and back down to C. Draw them together and anchor the stitch at C.
Continue to work vertically. now connecting E to F and back and so on. After you finish a complete vertical row, begin again at the upper edge

The technique that you're referring to

is called reversed smocking, and it's

done by hand on the fabric wrong side.

Using the illustration at right as a guide, mark a series of dots in a 1" grid on the fabric wrong side, using a pencil or a non-bleeding marking pen (5).

withanewAandBset.
When the smocking is complete, pin

Thread a sewing needle with polyester thread and knot one end. Pick up a small amount of fabric (ike a little pick

the smocked section to a piece of muslin and baste around the edges to

hold in place.
Look in books that illustrate traditional smocking patterns to vary the look of

stitch) at the upper left-hand A dot. Pick up dot B at the upper left diagonal, and then move back down to the beginning dot A. Pull A and B tighdy together and anchor with a small stitch.

the design, but use the same concept

explained here.This technique can be used on any fabric, but it's especially luxurious on velvet or satin.

rf
.E

./.,
\ .E
.H

.H
.J

.6

./.,

sewnews.com

33

Fleece Police
I really enjoyed reading the Aug.i

has a tendency to "snow-plough" in

front of the
several ways

Without a Trace
Over the years, l've seen many changes in tracing paper. While tailor tacks have their place in hard-tomark fabrics, nothing beats a tracing wheel and paper for nice accurate

presser foot.

There

are

Sept. '07 Sew News.The article on sewing machine needles particularly interested me.The only fabric I didn't see mentioned in the article is fleece. Which needle is best to use on fleece? Anik B. The best needle to use on fleece is
a

to help prevent

this.

Lengthen the stitch length

to 3 mm or

4 mm.
tip of a point turner to compress the fabric in front of the presser foot as you raise and lower it to relax and
Use the

markings. I can't find an effective paper that doesn't smudge or fail to mark at all. Please help.
Barbara C.

readjust the fabric.

universal needle, varylng the size from 80/12 to 90/1,2 according to the fleece weight. The heavier the fleece, the

I agree that
Stagger pins on both sides of the seanr allowance.
Use a walking foot to evenly feed the fabric through the machine.

good tracing paper is hard

to find these days. But there are two

manufacturers in Japan that still produce great tracing paper that arent in

larger the needle size you need. [Jse polyester thread since it has enough give to work with this knit fabric. Here are a few more fleece-sewing pointers. Because of the bulk, fleece

the mainstream notions market. One is manufacrured by Clover; it's called Chacopy. The package includes I0"x12" sheets in five colors. Check with your local sewing machine dealer or independent fabric store. If they dont already carry it, they can order it. Also check out the major mailorder notion supply catalogs.

The second product is sinrply called Tiacing Paper, containing five sheets that are 100% chalk on paper.

Itt

Supplies

distributed by Professional Sewing in Seattle, WA. Call 32+8823 for more ffirmation. * Q06)

GOT A GIUESTION?
it to: Sewing Q&A, Sery ffeuvs, 741 Corporate Circle, Ste. A, Golden, C0 80401 or sewnews@sewnews.com. While we can't answer every question personally, those of general interest will be published in
Send
the magazine. For answers to other sewing questions, visit us at sewnews.com.

34

SeWnews JUNE/J

ffi@,$_:

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Gur\d

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Kimono,show at Nishiji Textile Center Japanese Textiles & Tours

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rvorld-explor-ing other culttrres, le.aming rrew traclitions, attd filling suitcases rvith f:rbrics atld trinrs fronr afuir.If thc thoughf of headins oflito new (and perhaps str;tnge) lartds by vclr-rrself is enoush to nuke ,vou ctrrl up in yolrr easy chair, sigtt up fbr
Ther-e's sonrething rvonder{ul abor,rt travc-lius the
a sc:rving

tollr and leave the planning

rrncl tr:tvel arrangelltents tcl

the plos.

Tour Trappings
Whether you want to visit another part of the United States or travel around the wor-ld, ther-e's a tour opportunin' awaiting you. The great part of ;r sewing- or fabric-related tour is that participants have a colttnlon interest, rrs opposed to general sightseeing tours wherc the focus is on local attractions (other than fabric and sewins-r-elated resottrces). Sewing tours usually include tinre for visiting local fabric
stores (often with special shopping discounts), desiener and artisan studios, llluseunm with fashion exhibits, atrc-l/or ;t glimpse behind the scenes of related industries r'vherc t'ott

Sometinres nluseuns open their archives

to tour

gatherings

and special prcsentations nlay be available-a benefit to being an "insider" with the group. Ciry sightseeing may be included as well, but it's not the tour emphasis.

Destinations Unlimited
Sonre areas of the United States and various locales around the kuown for their sewing and fabric connections. world are "vell Hong Kong,Japan and India, as well as otherAsian China, countries like Thailand,Vietnam and Singapore oft-er sewers a mecca of fabrics-most notably, a variery of colorfi.rl silks. Hong Kong offers a gamlent and fabric district to rival any city worldwide, and fabric fiom near\ manufacruring facfities

nornrally dont have

access.

Ther-ei often a class of soltte

notable.

kind included or a lecture by a sewine or fashion

t*+

r1 .I
+

'-i

@
Pnntr'ng "'
"

scarves

"','rloy,uoji.r#"on

!i:ii';i::;?
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Sewnews.com
I

Sewing Tour Resources

Check these Web sites for upcoming sewing/fabric

tour dates and current registration information:

American Sewing Guild Sew Much Fun Tours,

asg.org, offers tours to various destinations throughout the year, such as Hong Kong, New York, the Northwest United States, etc. (The next American Sewing Guild tour to Hong Kong is

February 10-18,2009.) Japanese Textiles and Tours, saberdesigns.cc, has Japan tours in November'08 and March '09.

Foreign travel brings matry new eulfiral experiences. Be open to things you may nat be used to seeing*both on menus and on the street.

Marcy Tilton, marcytilton.com, takes sewers on a

Hidden Paris Tour"
fi]bCa I l's Q u i lti n g magazinen mccallsqu iltin g.com/events, offers tou rs to various destinations through the year, such as ltaly, China and the Caribbean. (The next McCall's Quiltinglrip is to Switzerland, Germany and Austria,

In Hong Kang you'Il find snake restaurants with Iive reptiles slithering in baskets outside the door. You'Il also find Eastern-styte toilets*simply a hole in the ground. Take photos for your scrapbook!

October 1-11,2008.)
Q u i lte rs' Travel i n g Com pa n i on, quilterstravelingcgmpanion.com, is a biennial guide to quilt shops and shows in the United States, Canada and the Bahamas.

often finds its way to the street markets with recognizable nametags still attached. Paris is a worldwide fashion center and many couturien are based in this ciry by the Seine. Famous designen and wonderfirl museufits tempt anyone with a penchant for fabric, fashion and style. New York is America's fashion center, offering discount fabric outles, famous-name designer workrooms and corporate offices for several sewing-related companies. The Los Angeles garment district is a close rival. The Northwest area of the United Sates has perhaps the highest concenrradon of hobby sewers, fabric stores and sewing entrepreneurs. pook for an American Sewing Guild

Quiltmaker magazine, quiltmaker.com/tours, takes quilters to several different destinations, such as Hawaii and Japan. (The next Ouilfmakertrip is to Alaska, August 19-27, 2008.)
Sew Many Options, sewmanyoptionstours.com, offers an annual tour to the Sewing & Stitchery Expo in Puyallup, WA; other destinations vary.

tour to this area in September.)

Tour destinations vary yearly, so check the resources listed at left for current ofbrings. If there's no excunion to a place you'd love to visit, contact the tour sponsors to see if one is planned.

Susan Khalje, susankhalje.com, leads a Paris

Couture Tour.

Tactile Travel, tactiletravel.com, offers the Italy Textile Trek in October'08 (they also offer
knitting/yarn tours).

Celebrity Sightseeing
One of the fun things about sewing tours is that even the guides share your fabric passion. Group leaders and tour organizen may be narnes you recognize from other venues-for example, Susan Khalje is the host of DIY.net's
Sa,u

Much More. Mar:c.l Tilton founded the SewingWorkshop

and is aVogue Pattern Co. designer, Manha McClintock owru Saf-T:Pocket Patterns, and Pauline Richards is the publisher of Total Ernbellishment Na,usletter.You may travel with

people who are indusry veterans and well acquainted with the companies and resources included on their toun. Most have been to the destination multiple times, and they continue

to discover new resources each visit. Many gurdes are also authors, so it's the perGct time to snap photos and have
books autographed.

42

SWnews JUNE/JutY 2oo8

;##g',fi;-dffi
students workins1fril:f

Tour Tlps
Before sending money (usually a deposit) for a tour, rhere are several things to check about the trip. o The tour activities should be clearly spelled out sonlewhere, often in fine print. Look for details about what rhe rour includes and what addiriond expenses you'll need to plan for. Meals (other than with the group), side rrips, tips, connecting arrfare, and of course shopping, are colnllton
add-ons. o Some tours are priced to include airfare from the point of origin; others are not. For example, a tour to Asia rnay depart from a west coast locarion, but if you live on rhe
east coast, you have to pay to get to the tour's deparrure city. Other tours require participants to meet the group ar the destinarion, which can mean not only ffaveling on your

ti;[?Jouture

schoor

20u5

rfrrij
Research it Right
Although nlosr tours provide participants with a welcome kit and an orientarion meeting onsite, there's nothing like a little work on your own to ensure nothing's missed. Before your trip, research the areas you'll be visiting so you
can make productive use of any free time, tr)r out notable visit any attracrions of interest that may not be included in the group's schedule. The Internet can
restaurants and

own to get there, but significant additional expense. Check for any penalties associated with trip cancellarion, for whatever reason. Tour operators usually retain a portion

of the registrarion Ge, and if airline tickets have been

Optional travel insurance may cover some cancellation costs. If you request a single room, expect a supplemental charge. Some tour organizers will try to match you with a roonlmate upon request, though they don't guarantee it. you make a deposit for a tour, make note of when the final payment is due and send it so it arrives by rhe deadline. Some tour operators send reminder notices; others don't and simply cancel your reservarion if payment
received.

issued, additional penalties may also apply.

o 'When

isnt
o

Be sure the tour operator knows if you have any medical

conditions, special needs or dietary restrictions and check if they can be accommodated. Depending on the destinacion, access for the disabled may be limited, and rrips often include los of walking, especially if mass transportation is urilizei.

be a big help---*ewing forums, e-newsletters and search engines can often connecr you with locals very willing to meet Gllow sewers from afar. tavel sites offer general sightseeing information. lf shopping is your main interest, look for shopping guides for the cities/countries you'll be visiting, such as the Bom to Sftop series. Books like the Quilters'Tiauel Companion offer listings of quilt stores and shows in the United States, Canada and the Bahamas. Local chapters of the American Sewing Guild often publish fabric store guides for their region. When traveling to a foreign country, make a cheat sheet for currency conversion, and purchase a language dictionary. Note key words, such as fabric, resffoom and common fiber names you might see on the bolt end. Also note
necessary phrases, such as

"How much is this?"

and "-Where

is the bathroom?"
Check to see if the store sells fabric

by the meter (39.37"\

or the yard (36").

Sewn ews.com

43i
j

'c'i.J.t /-.\^1

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Pack Smart
Nothing's worse otl :r tour than beinq burdened u'ith too nruch ltregage, especiallv if there are locrrtion ch:rtrges durinq the toLrr and itls 1'our rcsponsibiliry' to scl-rlep your orvn bass. Pack light for the trip. Use l;ryerins rrucl nrix-and-nutch rv;rrdrobinq to ker'p suitcase space to a nrinitntutr. Itls pretw cert:rin that vor.r'll be buving thinss rvhile totrrinq, so it'.s best to bcqin rvitl-l only one suitcase (pcrhaps not full) and a cany-on. T.rke an er11pw bag for bringing back pur-chases. Airlines have different hag restrictions. Check vour carrier for cttrrent r-eqr-rlations. A bargain isn't re:rllv a bargair-r if you have to prt1, ovenvciuht

currencv is alrvavs tl're bcst option. Snr:rll bills are a u'isc choicc for r.rurketplace barqaininc. (lhcck rvith yonr b:rnk to see if therc ;rre ttpchrrees

lf you get lost, clon't panic. If you're not fhrrrilirrr rvith loc:rl ffansportatiort systenrs, the best strateg,v is to take :r trrxi back to yor-rr l-rotel. Keep thc busine'ss carrl of votrr host hotel in your rv;rllet

for usinq vour crcdit c;trcl or.rtside the United States and ii thcrc :rre additional f.:cs for fbr-eiEr ATM Lrsaqe.
Use the in-room hotel safe

for

easv conltrlu-ricatior-r

if

rreeded.
as

Eat in well-established restaurants,

to keep extrl

opposed to street 'u'ertclor strtlls r.rnless

nloncy :rncl your passport secttrc.Ytrtt

nr:ry neecl to shou' \'oLrl' p:rssport to convert n'ronev rlt sonlc fbrcigt blnks. Keep a close eye 0fi voilr handbag, pack

)'olie certrril 1'hlt

Carry medication

Voui'e qettiltq.

for ccnunoll tr:rveler

or tote u,hile tor.rring. I)on't keep all

\olrr nlonef in

.r sinqle place. Itls elsr'

to qet c:rrriecl rru'av shol'rpine and let yollr personrrl safcn' giLlxrd clorvn.

illrresscs. rrlonq u'itlt .utv prr'scriptiorl nrerlic:rtion vou tlrke re$rlarly: Cany elnerqencv cc)ntrtct inflorttt;ttion n'ith vcru.:rucl give il copv to the guide. lf yau don't plan ta participate in a

ccrtain tour :rctivin: let thc

qLricle

Rules

tc

knou' aheacl of titne.

L"irve

By

or aclditional luggaqe ch:rrges to qet it honre. Shipping itettts honrc nrty be an optiorr fi'onr sotne localcs.

For foreign desiiltatiorts, :t p155p61'1 i5

required lrncl thc cxpir;ttiotr d:rte trtust be :rt lerrst sir rtronths rrflte'r the tottr

Keep a copy of your passpoft pages and rrll crcclit cards (fiont :urcl back) separ:itc flonr the acttral clocunrents. IIr the case of loss or tl'reft, ,vou'll l-urve all the
ilrrl'rsl'11111
ir t

retllnr

clate.

(lheck to

sce

if you

ncccl

fortttariot t.

Moola Matters
lf you're traveling to a foreigtt country, ask the tour orsarlizer if there r.vill be tinre to exch:rnge nroney uport ;rrriv;.t-. C)r exchrrngc cLlrrencv al-rc:rd of tinre at an internationul bartk or airport. Itis good to have sonre local cttrrcttcl', especially if vou arrive rt niqht or ort a rveekend rvhen banks are closed. Major credit cards are ilccepted rvorlclwide ir-r stores and nrost restaurants. bllt if yor,r plan to sl'rop street nr:rrkcts or arc staying in very rural :rrc:rs, locrrl

;rnv vis;rs lln(l /ol' irrtntttrtiz.ttiotts befbre departtrrc. Thouqh crimnron sense should always

lf you're crossing several time zones in

your travels, e\pcrts rcconlllclld staying

an';rke nntil rronrral bcdtinre in tl-re clestination :1rcrl to hclp u,itli

prevail. itls sooc-l to be rertrirtdecl th:tt

r,'oni'e not thc onh' person on the tour, ancl nrost tinres there'.s a set schedulc' of appointrl.rcnts ancl visits thrrt rlecrls

jet

laq.

to bc kept. Alrvavs nrect thc uroup ;rt the ;rppointecl tinre lnd loc:rtiort. l)lan
purchrrses accordinql)' ;ulcJ allon'

sufficicrrt tirrre tirr p.n'irtg.

The clocks irt some foreiqn countrtes have nrilitan, tinre desiqn:rtions, so le;trn

Linda Griepentrog has organized sewing tours since 1992 and currently escorts groups around the world for the American Sewino Guild Sew Much Fun Tours. Hong Kong is her favorite destination; street markets and alley stalls are her passion.

that 16:(X) is really -l p.nr. local tinre.

44

SeWneu's JUNE / JULY 2OO8

make

it

afe
4l ,et.

The T-shirt is a great wardrobe staple, but it can get a little boring. Spice up a simple top with some minor changes for a look that's all you.
WHAT YOU'LL NEED

. T-shirt

.l/syard of knit fabric

.7e"-wide ribbon . All-purpose thread to match T'shirt

Seam sealant

Measure around the shin neckline. From the fabric, cut a 2"-wide strip by the neckline measurement plus 2". For a V-neck shirt, cut the fabric in half crosswise. Turn under one length-

wise edge /r" toward the wrong side; press. Repeat for the second strip. wrong side down, place one strip along the shirt neckline. Align one fabric strip short end with the necklineV and the fabric strip folded edge with the neckline stitching line. Pin the fabric strip in place. Edgestitcfr the fabric strip along the foldline. Fold the fabric strip over the neckline; pin. Stitch the fabric strip in place, following the first stitching line. Position the second strip on the neckline. Pin the fabric strip in place beginning at theVAt the shirt center back, turn under the fabric srrip short raw end and overlap it over the first strip. Edgestitch the strip in place along the foldline. Fold the fabric strip over the neckline;pin. Stitch the fabric strip in place, following the first stitching line. Turn the T-shirt wrong side out.Tbim the fabric strips close to the stitching. Turn the shirt right side out, and try it on.Tie a string or ribbon around yourselfjust under the bustline to determine the buttonhole placement. Pin-mark the placement. Measure from the shirt lower edge ro the pin. Remove the pin. On the featured shirt, that distance is 1,03/s".

sewn ews.co m

47

Remove the shirt and place it front side up on the work surface. LJse a

ruler to locate the center front. Pinmark the center front, positioning the pin the determined distance from the lower edge.
Measure and pin-mark 1" on both sides

of the center front. Moving ourward, pin-mark the determined distance from the lower edge, positioning each pin 2" apart (1). Repeat to pin-mark the
shirt back. Mark an even number of buttonholes on both the shirt front and back, adjusting the spacing
as necessary.

Bemove the center-front Pin. Stitch a vertical buftonhole at each pin-mark that's slightly wider than the

ribbon (2). Cut open the buttonholes,

and treat with seam sealant. Allow

to

dry.

Starting at the center front, weave the

[[[[[[[[

ribbon through the buttonholes. Tie the ribbon in a bow in the front. x

ilfi;;;o;;;,;;,;
trKMENIA
PFAFF
48
SeWnews JUNE/JUtY 2oo8

Fronk Bielec is best known os o designer on TLC's Troding Spoces- he oppeored on the very first show. But did you

know Fronk ond his wife, Judy, olso produce cross-stitch ond needle-felting potterns? Their business, Mosey 'n Me, is o greot success-the two designers hove published over 200 potterns. Reod on for their thoughts obout the resurgence of sewing ond how they begon their iourney into the industry.

54

SeWnews JUNE/JurY 2oo8

ff

fu fu Yr;ir icn't have i$ lie sl] si*vlsC" Sitxpiy liui,' ilv :*aki: things V*il redlllu L':ut:

Frank, tell us a bit about how

Mosey 'n Me began.

of

"l love you." She decided to rnake a cross-stitch pattern out of it. Now that design is in a gallery.
said

One day I left Judy a drawing bunny holding a little heart that

",

What inspires your designs? on you as you age. That's how you want your honre to evolve. Live in your home and evolve the way you live.
a palnnng tnat grows

Getting the bills paid! I have no philosophy to nly desisns. I don't have time to waste. I just pick up a brush and paint-l just do ir!

that's being produced.-When we take sewing out of its little niche and go beyond the pufr sleeves, we see sewins

':

How would you classify your

ilesign style, rf you were to classify it?

I'm not a glamour

been told

puss. I've

have a country

sryle-but

only did a few country rooms because people asked for it. I'm simplistic. I could be happy desigrung a cave room.

, ,,. You andJudy trauel the country to promote your business.What trends do you see happening in the sewing industry that you'ue seen at craJting shows? Is there a general feeling that sewing is emerging into the
mainstream?

another art form just like painting and sculpting.When you say you sew it doesn't nlean youie a girl scout or an old lady. Hildi Santo-Tomas (from
as

Trading
sews

Spaces) wears Prada but she like a rnaniac! We need to make people rcahze

that sewing isn't so

rigid-it's an art

Will you

offer some ailuice to

people who are searchingfor their ilesign styles?

We're so identity based-it's frighterunglYou don't have to be so sryled. Simply buy or nuke things you really love. People rush to decorate, but they need to just let the space evolve. It
doesn't need to all be done today.We're

different today than we were yesterday. If you rush, you're going to end up copying sonleone else. It's like picking
Angelina Jolie's
leave you?

I've noticed that young people are starting to sew differently. Tfrey're taking cues from culture and embellishing clothing in difterent ways. Kids don't respond ro country dolls. They respond to graffiti, deconstructing, ripping, re-sewing, T:shirt art, painting on clothes ... there's a huge trend to carry on the craft but reinvent it, make it their own. Judy teaches needle felting ----she's even doing it on jeans and everyone loves it, not just kids. "Sewing" nakes you think of pufrt shirts, lace collars ... and there's nothing wrong with that. But look at the art

: ':

fornr. If you can straight stitch, you can rule the world! If you can drive, you can sew. And rhe glorious thing about sewing is that you dont have to finish seanr. Let it fray! Frayed edges are out there. If you dont like it, at least
acknowledge or appreciate that

iti

lips-where
are

does that

happening. Sometimes a frayed seam can be kiiier! There are other ways of sewing things. It may not be what you were taught, and you don't have to like it. Think of it this way:There are a lot of ways to make stuffing, but each one makes a good turkey.

Who

you then? Imagine

sewnewS.com

55

Ellen

. Diit youfind that the home-

outnerc onTrading Spaces knew how to sew most of the time? I always see them sitting at machines sewing uyt

JuC't', Appreciating the art is the nlost enjoyable part. From T:shirts to very fine garments-arrything wirh a needle and thread is art.

curtains anil pillows.

Illen'. Do you
of sewing?

notice a changingface

Fronk: Sometimes they knew how to sew but "realiry television" is an

oxymoron. It all happens in two days. 'Vfe had gifted seamstresses and assistants who were absolutely glorious and got it all done. Edward'Walker (a Gllow
Tiading Spaces designer) started

out

sewing and got to be a designer. He can sew!You'd be missing the boat if you didnt interview him! If you don't,

JuCv: In our industry there's a great concern to appeal to younger people. We re still trying to attr:tct thenr. Households arent what they used to be. It seenm there isnt enough time to sit down and do something creative.
Single parents or both parents are

I'll

assault

your bobbins!
giue

{{

Yr:u have

to

iar"rqit a lr:t

Illen'. (Laughter) Don't worry.I'll

when ycu rvorlc cl*sely t*getirer. And that's whal wi] do""

him a call! Butfirst I want to talk to your wife.Juily, tell us a bit about how you anil Frank work together, Judy: Anywhere I'm weak, Frank
is

strong.You have to laugh a lot when

you work closely together. And that's what we do.

[ileri' How did you

learn to sew?

working and kids have so rnany activities. There isn't an emphasis on anything craf6/, no rnandatory horne-ec classeswe've taken it away to concentrate on computers and jobs. 'W'e live in a "microwave sociery." Everything needs to be instant.You can just pay someone to repair your hetn, so why learn how to do it yourself? I worked with a young receptionist once who would staple her hem when it came undone. She would glue on buttons because she didn't know how

.judy. My grandparents were from North Carolina and had a farm. It

was a time when you did what was necessary. My grandmother sewed and taught nry mother. Sewing was passed on. People comnrissioned my grandmother to make quilts. And nry urother quilted and did silk-ribbon embroidery. I have a love for all needle arts. I truly admire wonderd-rl pieces. do you most enjoy ahout sewing?

to thread a needle. But sewing is simple.

People dont realize it. Sewing on a button is emporvering! Just knowing how to sew that button can move you from point A to point B in the craft.'*

lnterview edited for Seuv News.

i
I t

Iiien'. What

Visit moseynme.com to find free clip art and Frank & Judy's cross-stitch, needlefelting and punch-needle patterns.

56

SeWnews JUNE I JULY 2oo8

ELLEN MARCH

Go Organic

Fiberactive Organics and YLI Corp. introduce Fiberactive Organic thread. Made from cotton
rhar'o {rnn \Jl nnor{l17 nhorninalc that rlonlpic the nf |.Jgauly \/l IEI llruaro Urqt uuPrsts tr rv l-l lclL) llgv

soil, this thread is made in accordance with the Global Organic Textile (GOT) Standard, meaning it has the lowest possible impact on the environment. The thread is multipurpose, durable and available in two colors: white and natural. Visit fiberactiveorganics.com, or call (919) 772-1412. Or visit ylicorp.com, or call (803) 985-3100 for

more information.

fff#e:
, i |

-'

Fiber
:.!,rir/r\1"'rt 'ts roe & l'lr iri 't4N1 ':* '

Save the Earth

Battinglilr-tr'.'."""':'''"

"

i:ffi#.,*''
\. nsefli i

Pr//rtr fi4777

'iw#.f*
tdj

''# ''+**6
,.1#,,,

.';*+-i
;.ii

ii|.

Use bamboo fiberfill, batting and pillow forms from Faidield for your projects to help support earthJriendly products and green manufacturing processes. Bamboo has a naturally antibacterial property that's retained in ultra-soft fibers. lt's also the fastest growing plant on earth, making it a leading renewable resource. Visit poly{il.com, or call (800) 243-0989 for more information

SWCICh Ir!
Wizard of Oz Collections
by Warner Bros. Cons umer Products for Quilting Treasures

Under the Rainbow

Follow Dorothy down the yellow brick road with fabric collections that chronicle the Wrzard of Oz. Six collections will illustrate the film from beginning to end. Under the Rainbow and Over the Rarnbow are available now. Follow \ the Yellow Brick Road, available in May '08, introduces the Scarecrow, Tin Man and Cowardly Lion. Stay tuned through October '09 to see three more collections. These labric collections
are sold exclusively to independent quilt shops. Visit quiltingtreasures.com lot a list ol retailers near you. 0t call (800) 876-2756.

58

SeWnerr,s JUNE / JULY 2oo8

3 Get Pinned
The Sewing Scissors Charm Pin by Jewelry Mine is the perfect accessory to advertise your favorite hobby. Handcrafted with genuine Austrian crystal channels, this elegant pin also makes a wonderful gift for sewing friends. Assorted charms, including a thread spool, sewing machine, thimble and pincushion, are suspended from a large pair of scissors that spans approximalely 2/2". Suggested retail price: $18. Visit jewelrymine.com, or call

t.;J

sr

(877) 857-4760 to order.

,;4
4 *,$"+*f* k*r

Fresh Flowers

Add the Flower of the Month CD #D7300 from Sudberry House to your embroidery design collection. Stitch name or gift tags, calendar pages, quilt blocks and more; border and month names
are optional. The design pack includes 24 designs in 72 sized versions; languages included are PES, VlP, HUS, ART, JEF, DST, PCS, SEW and XXX. Suggested retail price: $39.95. Call (860) 739-6951, or visit sudberrv.com for more information. x

ffiHt

Wffi ffi
t
'1,,.
Over the Rainbow

Hqve you found the perfect gift for o sewing friend? Do you own a hot notion that you can't
sew without? Let us knour what your fab finds are and you could be featured in an upcoming issue of Sew ffel,vs. Write to sewnews(@sewnews.com. or Fab FindslSew News. 741 Coroorate Circle. Suite A. Golden, C0 80401.

.f

g4Ql|{{*"*

$
sewnewS.com

I'm looking for a source for

'
{-'r {"1 -

i''ri-'i{'il'r
"-tr

i.

ilt*i p''lll

prt

5.

ilj,A ilil

lii e i-:"i

:;:i$l i-;t-:,ri

i:.i+ili

liflffi

Robin

E.

Vogue Fabrics in Evanston, IL, sells 1"-wide hook-and-loop tape on 2%- and 25-yad rolls. They currently stock red, nar,ry', turquoise, green multi
and yellow/pink stripe, as well as three neon colors-yellow, orange and lime
green.

Visit voguefabricsstore. com, or (800) 433-431,3 or (847) 864-9600 call

to order.

I'm looking for a company that sells t":i";r'i""lj'{:}zu [,]t.iil

14,.

e-mail sales@circlevisual.com, or call (212) 71e-s1s3.

a drawstring self-fabric belt that is threaded through buttonholes at the

Sarah P., e-mail

Circle Visual stocks a nrediumweight 6- to 7-ounce duck in rnore than

I've been searching for a pattern Callgd i'ir1, :'1.:l*',i.rii l"" t,l.:lltii" Can yOU help me locate it?
Anne S.

waist.When not being worn, the skirt folds accordion-sryle onto the belt and can be rolled for packing. For more information, visit finesewing.com. To
order the pattern, send $14 postpaid
residents, $15.96)

40 colors.This 100% cotton 60"-wide fabric is ideal for curtains, draperies and
tablecloths. A heavier 10-ounce
canvas

is stocked in 10 colors.To order a color card, send $4 (refundable with order)

to CircleVisual, Dept. SN-Duck, 225W.37th St., 16th Floor, NewYork,

NY

10018. For more information,

The Tiavel Skirt by Kathryn Brenne is a slimming silhouette designed to be made from light- to mediumweight fabric. This multisize pattern has 72 topstitched panels that create a pleated look, an eight-button front closure, and

(Canada residents, $14.84; Ontario to Kathryn Brenne,

Dept. SN,50 Hazeleton Lane, RR#1, Box 1, North Bay, ON P1B 8G2
Canada.

Where CAN I fiNd A SPORTS BRA PATTERN?

Sheila G.

Lingerie Secrets Pattern Company distributes three sports bra patterns designed byJan Bones.The Crossover is aV-neck surplice style that overlaps under the breasts from side seam to side seam, the Front Closing Bra fastens at the center-front with hook-and-loop tape, and the T Sport Bra has a

with a tank neckline in front. A11 the patterns include sizes 4X (32" to 53" bust) and cup sizes A, B, C and D. For a free catalog' write to Lingerie Secrets, Dept. SN, Box 23003,'Winnipeg, MB R3T 5S3
T:shaped back S to Canada; ca[ (204) 453-2462: or visit sewinglingerie.com.

60

SeWnews JUNE / tuLY 2oo8

I'm looking for a source that carries a large selection of for tote bag handles.
Carol
F.

orclerirrg intornratiotr :rttcJ color snatches, scncl $2.50 to Wazoorlle, l)ept. SN,

2-9 Heritage l{oacl, Mlrkh;rnr, ON

L3l'} 1M3, Canada. C)r r.isit
rvazoodle. cotrr/sntnc.

Lcs Bon l{ilrbon crrrrics ;ttt crcellettt sclection of cotton. trvlott and polvpropl'lenc n'cbbinq itt a rattgc oi u,idths. T1're heawn'eiqht cottolt u'eb-

Where can I buy and can be used for all types of sewing?
Edna
W.

bing, rc'cotnnrettdec'l titr bclts, pttrse

attcl

tote handles, uttcl kcr firlrs, is available in

solicl colors. stripes. tic clves. ch;ttttbrays and br.ricletl nrtrlticolors. The iiqht-

Where can I find instructions and supplies to make a

Erin P

u,eiqht Vct strong polvpropvlerle u.ebbing is icieal fbr dog collrtrs attd leasl-res. Thc high-shcetr ttr''lott is a qenerirl-purpose 11'glrbirtg. For ottlerittq inf orrnrttiott. r'isit lesbonritrbolt. col lt.
C)r call 225\ 262-1921.

Thc Lift-N-Snip is distribtrted bv Auttc llrinklev I)csigns. These stairtless steel

scissors hrrvc ;t sntrrll cttrvecl ittc'lettt:rtiotl

ne:rr thc tip

avrril;rble

oi tlte lorver blade :rtlcl rtrc in .37:" rlttcl J%" lettgtl-rs.Tl-re

Floorquilts!

by Ellen Highsmith

Silver (C&T Publishing,80 pages,

softcover) features step-by-step instructions and design ideas for

I'm trying to find

that's similar to the fabric used in commercially made Polo shirts.

Margaret S.

Lift-N-Snip is ide'el fbr retnovitrg stitchinq nrist.tkes becattsc thc cltnecl area lifts .rntl snips the threacl rvithottt distorting rtcarbv stitcl'res or accicJerttallv clrttinq thc firlrric. Ask for the Lift-NSnip at vor.rr krcal neecllcrvork shop. To
orcler bv nr.ril. c.ill The llusy Neeclle irr Tttcst'rr, AZ.;tr (fi6(r) 929-1977 or (52{)) 229. | ()7 7 . ()r vrsit busyneedle'.cottt.

WazoocJlc

[)r'o(]oo1Wickirtg l)ic1.rc rs stockecl trv in l-l colors. This vcrsatile

polvesrer l.t ..'<'stc kltir c,rttstt-ttt'tiott ir icleal fbr solf . tcnnis. o'clinq artd

rtulrinq shirts. .rs n'cll

rts

fbr

crrslutl

sports\\'c.lr .tntl slccl-tn'ear. PtoCool u'tcks pcrspir.rtiou :lw;r\. fionr the bor-lv so rotr fcel cttoler attd has .t slrn protccttort flctor oiSI)F +-l(t. Itls (ro" to (r(r" s'ide. For

ff

nraking fabric decoupage floor cloths. Silver's new home-dec technique combines quilt designs with protective coatings to produce beautifi.rl, fu nctional floor coverings. Instructions for place mats,luggage tags, bookmarks, coasters and trivets are also included. The Quilt Cottage in Mamaroneck, NY, carries the Floorquilt Essential Supply Kit. The kit is a convenient way to

buy the

necessary yet sometimes hard-to-find products, such as

heavyweight canvas, decoupage rnedium, protective finish and non-skid coating, to make any of the floorquilts in the book. Look for Floorquil*! and the Floorquilt Essential Supply Kit in your favorite quilt shop. If the supplies arent available in your
area,

visit quiltcottage.net, or call

(91,4) 777-1333

to order. '*

Sewnews.com

6l

COLLEEN SKELLS

i
l{
I !
T

.:'l.c'+

d
.

itt
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""S lrd

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$W*ru''i
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{'fr

?o-%t*rr,tfu I Qnhs,

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,n

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Sqitrs+Xl{,.66{
. I
ir c

Dress Shirt Design by Malie Raef. Here's a book that's sure to spark interest from fashion design students and sewing mavens alike. Written by a professional menswear designer, this book explores every aspect of a man's dress shirt, including information on pockets, collars, garment shaping, bottom hems, cuffs, long sleeves, short sleeves and much more. Over 840 computer sketches and fashion illustrations showing how pieces are sewn, stitching details and fabric layers, and information on how to design for a specific customer base are included. 156 pages. Schiffer
Publishing, (610) 593-1777, schifferbooks.com, $79.95

measure gauge and much more. Following the basics introduction is a 3OO-stitch library that includes photos and instructions for every type of knitting stitch. Whether you're a beginning

$
f

r{il Ler"\

or advanced knitter, this book contains valuable information for everyone. 255 pages. Watson-Guptill
Publications, (BO0) 278-8477, watsonguptill.com. $1 9,95. Ann Butler. Have you ever wanted to make a quilt but never seemed to have the time? Now you're in luck! Learn timesaving tools, tricks and techniques that will allow you to make 25 adorable projects in just 90 minutes. Easyto-follow instructions for making fashionable quilts, pillows, wall hangings, handbags and a shawl are included. In the time it takes to watch a movie, you can create a charming keepsake to be proud of. 159 pages. Krause Publications, (800) 258-0929, krausebooks com. $24 99. x

*,,

ni

[e,

(. Ir

i.a"cri

rr

O-rit*'',' ) aL.A,aA A

OS"> d|-.4. ' .6t1 'lt A

e*

9}-Minute Out'lfs by Meryl

Super Strfches Knffhng by

Hemingway. Learn everything

Karen

you need to know about knitting with this pocketsized how{o guide. The book begins with "Knitting Basics," where you'll learn how to choose and hold needles and yarn, how to read diagrams, how to

66

SeWnervs JUNE / luLY 2oo8