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Beauty and Personal Care in Italy

Euromonitor International June 2011

Beauty and Personal Care

Italy

List of Contents and Tables


Executive Summary ................................................................................................................................................ 1 A Moderately Positive Performance for Beauty and Personal Care ......................................................................... 1 Men and Specific Needs Drive Strong Growth for Many Categories........................................................................ 1 Multinationals Continue To Dominate ...................................................................................................................... 1 Beauty Specialist Retailers, Supermarkets/hypermarkets and Chemists/pharmacies Remain the Most Important Retail Channels ............................................................................................................................... 1 Sales Increases Ahead............................................................................................................................................... 1 Key Trends and Developments .............................................................................................................................. 1 the Product Range Offered by Supermarkets/hypermarkets Broadens ..................................................................... 1 Consumers Lack of Trust in Private Label Products ............................................................................................... 2 Natural Products Versus Man-made Ingredients ...................................................................................................... 2 Demographics An Ageing Population .................................................................................................................... 3 A Competitive Environment Dominated by Multinational Companies...................................................................... 4 Market Data ............................................................................................................................................................ 5 Table 1 Sales of Beauty and Personal Care by Category: Value 2005-2010 .................................. 5 Table 2 Sales of Beauty and Personal Care by Category: % Value Growth 2005-2010 ................. 5 Table 3 Sales of Premium Cosmetics by Category: Value 2005-2010 ........................................... 6 Table 4 Sales of Premium Cosmetics by Category: % Value Growth 2005-2010 .......................... 6 Table 5 Beauty and Personal Care Company Shares by NBO 2006-2010...................................... 6 Table 6 Beauty and Personal Care Company Shares by GBO 2006-2010...................................... 7 Table 7 Beauty and Personal Care Brand Shares by GBN 2007-2010 ........................................... 8 Table 8 Penetration of Private Label by Category 2005-2010 ........................................................ 9 Table 9 Sales of Beauty and Personal Care by Distribution Format: % Analysis 20052010 ................................................................................................................................... 9 Table 10 Sales of Beauty and Personal Care by Category and by Distribution Format: % Analysis 2010 ...............................................................................................................10 Table 11 Forecast Sales of Beauty and Personal Care by Category: Value 2010-2015 ...................11 Table 12 Forecast Sales of Beauty and Personal Care by Category: % Value Growth 2010-2015.........................................................................................................................12 Table 13 Forecast Sales of Premium Cosmetics by Category: Value 2010-2015 ............................12 Table 14 Forecast Sales of Premium Cosmetics by Category: % Value Growth 20102015 ..................................................................................................................................12 Definitions ...............................................................................................................................................................13 Summary 1 Research Sources ..............................................................................................................13

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BEAUTY AND PERSONAL CARE IN ITALY


EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
A Moderately Positive Performance for Beauty and Personal Care
In 2010 beauty and personal care recorded slight growth, although well below the rate seen over the review period. Italian consumers have become much more aware of their spending and this category has been hit more than others by this attitude. Mass cosmetics led the growth; consumers find this category extremely interesting because it offers the best value for money.

Men and Specific Needs Drive Strong Growth for Many Categories
Mens growing interest in caring for their body dictated the growth of many categories, such as mens deodorants and mens bath and shower which respectively grew by 10% and 9%. All the skin whitening categories grew by around 8, while the hair loss treatments category grew by 7%. These categories experienced such strong growth partly because of growing consumer attention but also because the starting base was very low, facilitating a high growth rate.

Multinationals Continue To Dominate


Beauty and personal care in Italy continued to be dominated by multinational manufacturers such as LOral Italiana Saipo SpA, Procter & Gamble Italia SpA, Beiersdorf SpA and Unilever Saipo SpA. Brands by leading international companies were found across product categories and in both mass and premium segments. As a whole, the leading multinationals consolidated their position in 2010. In a highly developed and competitive industry, manufacturers increasingly turned to innovative marketing campaigns and product positioning to drive sales. Product repositioning increasingly took place in categories that were traditionally seen as merely utilitarian, such as depilatories and sun care, with growing emphasis on the beauty aspects and the extra benefits of the products, rather than their purely functional qualities.

Beauty Specialist Retailers, Supermarkets/hypermarkets and Chemists/pharmacies Remain the Most Important Retail Channels
Italian consumers find health and beauty retailers to be the best outlets for purchasing beauty and personal care items, as they consider it extremely important to be informed about the products they are buying and they consider this channel the most effective in terms of professionalism. However supermarkets/hypermarkets, which are very important for categories such as oral care, hair care or bath and shower offer a wide variety of products at a lower price. Other channels are not gaining ground since they do not belong to the Italian shopping tradition.

Sales Increases Ahead


Over the forecast period, it is anticipated that the economy will recover, albeit very gradually. Nonetheless, this is likely to improve consumer confidence, inducing a stronger willingness to spend. As the masstige and premium trend continues to manifest itself, sales are expected to see healthier growth over the forecast period. Consumers using mass brands can be expected to gradually trade up to the stream of more expensive masstige and premium brands, which deliver higher quality.

KEY TRENDS AND DEVELOPMENTS


the Product Range Offered by Supermarkets/hypermarkets Broadens
Supermarkets/hypermarkets is becoming a very important channel for beauty and personal care manufacturers. Nevertheless the channel did not grow impressively in terms of volume sold, however the range it offers, from

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hair care to fragrances, widened impressively. Manufacturers chose to dedicate more attention to the channel simply because it offers the greatest scope to boost sales. Current Impact This new strategic shift is increasing the importance of mass products, which grew at a faster pace in value terms than premium products, with a 1% increase and a marginal decline respectively. It is increasingly possible to find a dedicated corner in a supermarket or hypermarket, enabling these outlets to create an environment much closer to a pharmacy or beauty specialist retailer, which Italian consumers still consider the right places to purchase beauty and personal care products. Outlook This trend was initially a consequence of the weak economic conditions, which prompted manufacturers to boost sales through the supermarkets/hypermarkets channel. However, they could go on to dedicate more attention to the channel given that the potential consumer base is very high compared to others, a factor that is crucial as they attempt to boost sales. Future Impact If the supermarkets/hypermarkets channel does gain ground, mass products will increase their importance and unit prices will decline. This would represent an important outlook for the masstige segment, which is becoming very important for the whole category since consumers appreciate this value-for-money option. Premium products could be hit by this new trend and manufacturers could revise their strategies, focusing on a narrow range of products, possibly super premium.

Consumers Lack of Trust in Private Label Products


Over the review period, private label continued to have a negligible presence compared with branded products. Brand familiarity has been a key obstacle to the take-up of private label, as a substantial proportion of Italian consumers has a lack of confidence in the effectiveness and quality of private label, especially for personal care products. Beauty and personal care products fortunes often rely on packaging and innovation; major companies invest heavily in these two growth drivers, while in contrast private label operators do not have sufficient margins to invest in these two areas. Current Impact Private label, which accounted for 2% of sales, performed slightly better in 2010 than in previous years, mainly thanks to the ongoing economic difficulties in the country; the increased availability of references through the grocery channel boosted their sales. Nevertheless the assortment across all categories remains narrow and private label manufacturers tend to invest more in basic products. Outlook Even within other industries such as packaged food or home care, the penetration of private label in Italy is low compared with other Western European countries. Since beauty and personal care overlaps with health-related products, the chance for private label to succeed in this market will remain slim. Moreover, retailers do not appear to show significant willingness to invest in private label and as has been seen within other categories, only when retailers fully commit to entering categories will private label grow. Future Impact With a scenario where private label will continue to have a tiny share in the category remaining likely, unit prices will not drop significantly, as has happened in other categories. On the other hand, important brand operators will continue to pursue strong brand strategies based on advertising, packaging and innovation, the key drivers of growth in the category.

Natural Products Versus Man-made Ingredients

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Similar to trends seen in food and drink, consumers are inclined towards beauty and personal care products based on natural and organic ingredients. Products made with botanical or herbal ingredients, as well as those organically produced, are regarded as particularly beneficial to consumers personal care needs and general wellbeing. The trend towards these natural products is also developing from growing environmental awareness. However, there are still bright areas to be found within personal care ingredients, most notably in ingredients for the skin. In fact, in many areas such as skin care and sun care, Italian consumers are increasingly demanding ingredients that have scientifically-proven benefits alongside sustainable and/or natural credentials. Current Impact Demand for natural and organic beauty and personal care products in Italy continued to grow in 2010, especially among younger consumers. In line with this trend, in 2010 herbalist shops (captured as part of other health and beauty retailers according to Euromonitor International definitions) continued to be an important outlet type for beauty and personal care products. The natural and organic trend had the most impact on baby care, skin care, colour cosmetics and hair care, all categories used daily, indicating how important consumers consider their health to be. Nevertheless, active ingredients continued to outperform many other factors in the beauty and personal care category, thanks largely to ongoing demand for anti-ageing products. In fact, when it comes to nourishers/antiagers, product efficacy is more valued. Outlook Interest in natural or organic products is likely to increase during the forecast period, as Italians become more informed of the perceived benefits of botanical and organically-produced ingredients. Environmental awareness among Italians is expected to become more pronounced, with issues such as continuing drought and global warming receiving strong attention in the country. As a result, for consumers who are increasingly concerned about environmental sustainability, new product launches using natural ingredients will serve as attractive alternatives to products made from conventional ingredients that may be artificial in nature. Future Impact Companies that offer natural or organic beauty and personal care products are likely to perform well over the forecast period, as consumer interest in such product lines continues to grow. Consequently, manufacturers of established brands without prior experience in the natural or organic field will also be expected to include natural or organically-produced ingredients, either in new product launches or reformulations. This will serve to counter the increasing competition from niche organic or natural brands, as well as meet changing consumer needs over the forecast period.

Demographics An Ageing Population


The number of pensioners is rising rapidly as Italian society ages. Pension reforms over the last decade have significantly cut expected future retirement benefits but the transition is slow and may be further delayed in the future. The number of children aged 0-14 has been dropping steadily since 1980. The population of teenagers peaked just a few years later and then began a decline which will continue through to 2020. Similar trends can be observed for all other age groups between 20 and 40. The total share for those aged 40-50 has been growing since 1980 but this group, too, will see a decline during the next decade. Current Impact The increasing number of elderly people is due in part to a rise in life expectancy but also to a declining birth rate. On one hand this phenomenon is determining a sort of state of maturity for the beauty and personal care category since it is not growing and, on the other hand, it is changing the product portfolio of the entire category particularly in skin care with lines such as such as Clarins Gel Buste Superlift (Clarins SA) and in hair care with products such as Elvive Re-Nutrition shampoo (LOral Italiana Saipo SpA). Companies are increasingly making efforts to offer products with some sort of anti-ageing properties. Outlook

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In 2000, Italy had 12.2 million pensioners and by 2020 that figure will be 13.8 million equivalent to 23.4% of total population. The number of pensioners is equal to 33% of the working-age population and that percentage will rise to 36.7% by 2020. The fertility rate has been well below the replacement level (2.1 children per woman) for several decades. The rate will continue to drop and by 2020 it will be slightly less than 1.1 children per woman. With fertility rates stuck at such low levels, a long-term decline in the number of young and middle-aged people is inevitable. Future Impact With the traditional consumer base shrinking, companies are likely to increase segmentation. Beauty and personal care demand will be steady for the forecast period; the most successful products will the ones targeted towards teenagers, men and older people. Teenagers have increased their spending capacity because of the common habit of their parents to give them money periodically. Male consumers represent the segment upon which companies will focus strongly in order to benefit from the growing attention men are giving to their personal grooming.

A Competitive Environment Dominated by Multinational Companies


The fragmented Italian beauty and personal care category is led by a handful of local subsidiaries of multinationals, including LOral Italiana Saipo SpA, Procter & Gamble Italia SpA, Beiersdorf SpA, Unilever Italia SpA, Henkel SpA and Societ Italo Britannica L Manetti - H Roberts & C SpA, together accounting for a 45% share of retail value sales in 2010. The leading Italian company producing branded products within the top 15, Mirato Nuova SpA, held a value share of just 1% in 2010, in line with its previous years share. The leading multinationals achieved their strong positions decades ago, thanks to economies of scale, which gave them an advantage in terms of product development, and the ability to invest in advertising and promotional support for their products. Multinationals also foster their growth through acquisition; nonetheless the economic scenario is not particularly robust, thus the latest and most interesting event in this regard concerns the acquisition of 50,45% of Bulgari SpA by LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton in March 2011. Current Impact The beauty and personal care category became more consolidated between 2005 and 2010, reflecting a scenario where bigger companies became first movers and led the category thanks to their advertising campaigns, together with routine product innovation. The top advertising spender in 2010 was by some distance LOral Italiana Saipo SpA, which continued to invest strongly to support all its brands, most notably Lancme and LOral Paris. The company also continued to innovate, being among the most active players in terms of new product development, focused especially on dedicated value-added features. Overall, multinationals remained much more competitive compared to local players, using a range of strategies to increase sales, which included acquisitions and entering new distribution channels, in addition to new product launches and marketing programmes. Outlook Existing multinationals are expected to continue to dominate the beauty and personal care category in the coming years, particularly in the mass segment. The barriers to entry for launching new brands remain very high, with new small brands (unless they have celebrity backing or a unique angle) finding it difficult to obtain shelf space. More affluent consumers are expected to increasingly seek out products offering value-added features, which large foreign players have the resources to develop. Future Impact The increasing demand for both high-quality and value-for-money products will be likely to lead to major manufacturers investing in research and development activities as well as supporting their products with more

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specifically targeted advertising and promotional campaigns that appeal directly to Italian consumers. At the same time, acquisition will remain a popular way for companies to gain share, as many will see this approach as easier than creating a new brand in-house. In this scenario specific retailers, such as Bottega Verde, could increase their shares, as Italians perceive their brands to be healthy and more effective. The main threat that companies face is that retailers will either stop carrying their brands or will reduce inventory levels. Retailers are facing economic hardship as well, and are looking for brands that turn over quickly so they can have cash on hand instead of holding excess inventory. As a result, retailers that might have previously welcomed new small brands are now more willing to pull the plug at the first sign of trouble. Retailers have been destocking and are likely to reduce inventory levels in the first half of the forecast period, waiting for a full recovery in the Italian economy.

MARKET DATA
Table 1 EUR million 2005 Baby Care Bath and Shower Colour Cosmetics Deodorants Depilatories Fragrances Hair Care Men's Grooming Oral Care Oral Care excl Power Toothbrushes Skin Care Sun Care Sets/Kits Premium Cosmetics Mass Cosmetics Beauty and Personal Care
Source: Note 1: Note 2:

Sales of Beauty and Personal Care by Category: Value 2005-2010

2006 192.8 1,055.2 895.1 435.3 82.7 984.1 1,265.1 668.5 970.0 910.1 1,844.4 325.2 141.7 2,410.2 4,728.7 8,656.6

2007 197.7 1,064.0 903.5 444.2 85.0 1,029.2 1,266.0 689.3 1,007.5 946.1 1,894.7 348.8 161.3 2,523.0 4,786.3 8,882.9

2008 202.8 1,072.3 927.6 451.9 85.5 1,043.8 1,276.3 695.2 1,028.0 965.9 1,895.3 354.7 164.2 2,545.6 4,843.3 8,986.3

2009 202.2 1,085.1 950.0 468.9 90.2 1,034.4 1,296.0 706.4 1,031.5 968.8 1,855.7 364.8 170.0 2,507.4 4,919.8 9,035.5

2010 201.1 1,103.6 933.4 483.6 89.7 1,038.1 1,318.8 724.3 1,045.5 982.1 1,819.4 360.7 180.2 2,496.3 4,942.7 9,063.4

184.0 1,046.9 878.1 427.6 81.9 953.1 1,284.1 664.7 923.2 863.8 1,771.1 311.5 130.9 2,322.7 4,664.6 8,456.7

Euromonitor International from official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research, store checks, trade interviews, trade sources Premium cosmetic sales are additionally included within baby care, bath and shower, colour cosmetics, deodorants, fragrances, hair care, sets/kits, skin care and sun care. Sum of categories is greater than market size because the four mens toiletries categories are included in mens grooming as well as in bath and shower, deodorants, hair care and skin care.

Table 2

Sales of Beauty and Personal Care by Category: % Value Growth 2005-2010

% current value growth 2009/10 Baby Care Bath and Shower Colour Cosmetics Deodorants Depilatories Fragrances Hair Care Men's Grooming Oral Care Oral Care excl Power Toothbrushes Skin Care Sun Care Sets/Kits -0.6 1.7 -1.7 3.1 -0.6 0.4 1.8 2.5 1.4 1.4 -2.0 -1.1 6.0 2005-10 CAGR 1.8 1.1 1.2 2.5 1.8 1.7 0.5 1.7 2.5 2.6 0.5 3.0 6.6 2005/10 TOTAL 9.3 5.4 6.3 13.1 9.5 8.9 2.7 9.0 13.2 13.7 2.7 15.8 37.7

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Premium Cosmetics Mass Cosmetics Beauty and Personal Care


Source: Note 1: Note 2:

-0.4 0.5 0.3

1.5 1.2 1.4

7.5 6.0 7.2

Euromonitor International from official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research, store checks, trade interviews, trade sources Premium cosmetic sales are additionally included within baby care, bath and shower, colour cosmetics, deodorants, fragrances, hair care, sets/kits, skin care and sun care. Sum of categories is greater than market size because the four mens toiletries categories are included in mens grooming as well as in bath and shower, deodorants, hair care and skin care.

Table 3 EUR million

Sales of Premium Cosmetics by Category: Value 2005-2010

2005 Premium Baby Care Premium Bath and Shower Premium Colour Cosmetics Premium Deodorants Premium Fragrances Premium Hair Care Premium Skin Care Premium Sun Care Premium Sets/Kits Premium Cosmetics
Source: Note:

2006 6.2 47.3 236.0 37.9 737.0 122.3 979.7 137.8 106.0 2,410.2

2007 6.4 49.2 243.2 37.8 775.9 125.0 1,015.0 148.8 121.6 2,523.0

2008 6.6 46.7 255.0 37.1 782.4 126.9 1,012.6 154.4 123.9 2,545.6

2009 6.6 42.9 257.0 34.7 775.9 128.3 981.0 152.6 128.5 2,507.4

2010 6.7 40.4 250.5 33.9 781.5 129.5 963.3 151.4 139.2 2,496.3

5.8 46.4 229.6 39.8 709.7 122.9 939.1 131.8 97.5 2,322.7

Euromonitor International from official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research, store checks, trade interviews, trade sources Premium cosmetic sales are additionally included within baby care, bath and shower, colour cosmetics, deodorants, fragrances, hair care, sets/kits, skin care and sun care.

Table 4

Sales of Premium Cosmetics by Category: % Value Growth 2005-2010

% current value growth 2009/10 Premium Baby Care Premium Bath and Shower Premium Colour Cosmetics Premium Deodorants Premium Fragrances Premium Hair Care Premium Skin Care Premium Sun Care Premium Sets/Kits Premium Cosmetics
Source: Note:

2005-10 CAGR 2.8 -2.7 1.8 -3.2 1.9 1.0 0.5 2.8 7.4 1.5

2005/10 TOTAL 14.8 -12.9 9.1 -14.9 10.1 5.4 2.6 14.8 42.7 7.5

0.7 -5.8 -2.5 -2.4 0.7 0.9 -1.8 -0.8 8.3 -0.4

Euromonitor International from official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research, store checks, trade interviews, trade sources Premium cosmetic sales are additionally included within baby care, bath and shower, colour cosmetics, deodorants, fragrances, hair care, sets/kits, skin care and sun care.

Table 5 % retail value rsp Company

Beauty and Personal Care Company Shares by NBO 2006-2010

2006 15.5 11.7 6.3 4.9

2007 15.4 12.0 6.4 5.0

2008 15.3 12.1 6.4 5.0

2009 15.4 12.1 6.5 5.6

2010 15.2 12.1 6.3 5.8

L'Oral Italiana Saipo SpA Procter & Gamble Italia SpA Beiersdorf SpA Unilever Italia SpA

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Henkel SpA Societ Italo Britannica L Manetti H Roberts & C SpA Colgate-Palmolive SpA Este Lauder Srl Johnson & Johnson SpA Avon Cosmetics SpA Cosmtique Active Italia SpA Coty Italia SpA Christian Dior SpA, Parfums Shiseido Cosmetici Italia SpA Other Private Label Mirato Nuova SpA Sara Lee/DE Italy SpA Collistar SpA Clarins SA Pierre Fabre Italia SpA Paglieri Profumi SpA Chanel Srl Puig Italia Srl Bottega Verde Srl SmithKline Beecham SpA Conter Srl Micys Co Srl Deborah Group Artsana SpA Parke-Davis SpA Weruska & Joel Srl Stafford-Miller Srl Cosmopolitan Cosmetics SpA Reckitt Benckiser Italia SpA Farmaceutici Dott Ciccarelli SpA Cadey Italiana SpA Wella Italia Labocos SpA Klmata SpA Beaut Prestige International SpA LVMH Italia SpA Others Total
Source:

2.3 2.6

2.3 2.5

2.3 2.5

2.6 2.5

2.7 2.6

2.7 2.5 1.7 1.2 1.7 1.7 1.8 1.6 1.4 1.4 1.6 1.1 1.0 1.0 0.9 1.0 0.9 0.9 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.6 0.6 0.7 0.6 0.7 0.5 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.5 0.4 0.3 21.0 100.0

2.4 2.3 1.8 1.3 1.7 1.7 1.8 1.6 1.4 1.4 1.6 1.1 1.0 1.0 0.9 1.0 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.6 0.6 0.7 0.6 0.6 0.5 0.6 0.6 0.5 0.5 0.4 0.3 20.7 100.0

2.3 2.3 1.9 1.4 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.6 1.4 1.4 1.7 1.1 1.0 1.0 0.9 1.0 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.6 0.6 0.5 0.6 0.6 0.5 0.5 0.4 0.3 20.6 100.0

2.4 2.3 1.9 1.7 1.8 1.7 1.7 1.6 1.4 1.3 1.3 1.1 1.0 1.0 1.0 0.9 0.9 0.9 1.0 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.5 0.5 0.4 0.3 19.4 100.0

2.4 2.3 1.9 1.9 1.8 1.7 1.7 1.6 1.5 1.3 1.2 1.1 1.0 1.0 1.0 0.9 0.9 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.4 0.3 19.3 100.0

Euromonitor International from official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research, store checks, trade interviews, trade sources

Table 6 % retail value rsp Company

Beauty and Personal Care Company Shares by GBO 2006-2010

2006 17.3 12.5 6.4 5.3 3.7 2.3 2.7 2.4

2007 17.2 12.8 6.5 5.3 3.6 2.3 2.4 2.4

2008 18.0 12.8 6.5 5.4 3.6 2.3 2.3 2.4

2009 18.1 12.7 6.7 5.8 3.7 2.6 2.4 2.4

2010 17.9 12.8 6.4 5.9 3.8 2.7 2.4 2.3

L'Oral Groupe Procter & Gamble Co, The Beiersdorf AG Unilever Group Bolton Group, The Henkel AG & Co KGaA Colgate-Palmolive Co LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton

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Este Lauder Cos Inc Johnson & Johnson Inc Coty Inc Shiseido Co Ltd Avon Products Inc GlaxoSmithKline Plc Sara Lee Corp Mirato Nuova SpA Clarins SA Paglieri SpA Pierre Fabre SA, Laboratoires Chanel SA Puig SL Bottega Verde Srl Micys Co Srl Deborah Group Artsana, Gruppo Weruska & Joel Srl Energizer Holdings Inc Reckitt Benckiser Plc Farmaceutici Dott Ciccarelli SpA Cadey Italiana SpA Klmata SpA Conter Srl Societ Cosmetici SpA Spotless Group SAS Omega Pharma NV Yves Rocher SA Elizabeth Arden Inc IT Holding Istituto Ganassini SpA Amway Corp Private Label Others Total
Source:

2.5 1.9 2.1 2.0 1.2 1.6 1.4 1.5 1.2 1.0 1.0 1.0 0.9 0.8 0.8 0.6 0.7 0.5 0.5 0.6 0.6 0.5 0.5 0.4 0.4 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.2 0.2 2.1 17.6 100.0

2.3 2.0 2.1 2.0 1.3 1.7 1.4 1.5 1.2 1.0 1.0 1.0 0.9 0.8 0.8 0.6 0.7 0.6 0.5 0.6 0.6 0.5 0.5 0.4 0.4 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.2 0.2 2.1 17.2 100.0

2.3 2.1 2.1 1.9 1.4 1.8 1.5 1.4 1.2 1.0 1.0 1.0 0.9 0.8 0.8 0.7 0.7 0.6 0.5 0.6 0.6 0.5 0.5 0.4 0.4 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.2 0.2 2.2 16.4 100.0

2.3 2.1 2.1 2.0 1.7 1.8 1.5 1.4 1.2 1.0 1.0 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.8 0.8 0.7 0.7 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.5 0.5 0.4 0.4 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.2 0.2 0.2 2.2 14.1 100.0

2.3 2.1 2.1 2.0 1.9 1.7 1.4 1.4 1.2 1.0 1.0 0.9 0.9 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.7 0.7 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.4 0.4 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.2 0.2 0.2 2.3 14.1 100.0

Euromonitor International from official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research, store checks, trade interviews, trade sources

Table 7 % retail value rsp Brand Dove Mentadent Pantene L'Oral Paris Neutro Roberts

Beauty and Personal Care Brand Shares by GBN 2007-2010

Company Unilever Italia SpA Unilever Italia SpA Procter & Gamble Italia SpA L'Oral Italiana Saipo SpA Societ Italo Britannica L Manetti H Roberts & C SpA Shiseido Cosmetici Italia SpA L'Oral Italiana Saipo SpA Beiersdorf SpA Procter & Gamble Italia SpA Cosmtique Active Italia SpA L'Oral Italiana Saipo SpA

2007 2.0 1.8 1.7 1.8 1.6

2008 2.1 1.9 1.7 1.8 1.5

2009 2.3 1.9 1.7 1.8 1.6

2010 2.4 2.0 1.7 1.7 1.6

Shiseido Other Private Label Garnier Fructis Nivea Visage AZ Vichy L'Oral DermoExpertise

1.6 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.2 1.1 1.1

1.6 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.2 1.1 1.1

1.6 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.2 1.1 1.1

1.6 1.5 1.4 1.3 1.2 1.2 1.1

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Max Factor Gillette Mach3 Elvive Rimmel Collistar Braun Oral-B Infasil Clarins Kukident Maybelline Clinique Colgate Lancme Este Lauder Neutromed Bottega Verde Nivea Sun Nivea Body Synergie Deborah Felce Azzurra L'Oral Studio Line AVON Color Pupa L'Oral Excellence Antica Erboristeria Palmolive Helena Rubinstein Others Total
Source:

Procter & Gamble Italia SpA Procter & Gamble Italia SpA L'Oral Italiana Saipo SpA Coty Italia SpA Collistar SpA Procter & Gamble Italia SpA Procter & Gamble Italia SpA Clarins SA Procter & Gamble Italia SpA L'Oral Italiana Saipo SpA Este Lauder Srl Colgate-Palmolive SpA L'Oral Italiana Saipo SpA Este Lauder Srl Henkel SpA Bottega Verde Srl Beiersdorf SpA Beiersdorf SpA L'Oral Italiana Saipo SpA Deborah Group Paglieri Profumi SpA L'Oral Italiana Saipo SpA Avon Cosmetics SpA Micys Co Srl L'Oral Italiana Saipo SpA Henkel SpA Colgate-Palmolive SpA L'Oral Italiana Saipo SpA

1.2 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 0.9 1.0 1.0 0.9 0.9 1.0 1.0 0.9 0.8 0.7 0.9 0.8 1.0 0.9 0.8 0.7 0.7 0.5 0.7 0.6 0.7 0.7 0.7 58.0 100.0

1.2 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 0.9 1.0 1.0 0.9 0.9 1.0 0.9 0.9 0.8 0.7 0.9 0.7 0.9 0.8 0.8 0.7 0.7 0.5 0.7 0.6 0.7 0.7 0.7 58.1 100.0

1.1 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 0.9 1.0 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.8 0.8 0.9 0.8 0.9 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.7 0.6 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 57.6 100.0

1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 57.4 100.0

Euromonitor International from official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research, store checks, trade interviews, trade sources

Table 8 % retail value rsp

Penetration of Private Label by Category 2005-2010

2005 Beauty and Personal Care Bath and Shower Deodorants Hair Care Men's Grooming Oral Care Skin Care Mass Cosmetics
Source:

2006 2.1 10.0 2.6 1.6 0.5 4.0 0.3 3.0

2007 2.1 10.1 2.7 1.6 0.6 4.0 0.3 3.0

2008 2.2 10.3 2.9 1.7 0.6 4.0 0.3 3.1

2009 2.2 10.5 3.1 1.6 0.6 4.2 0.4 3.1

2010 2.3 10.7 3.0 1.6 0.6 4.3 0.4 3.2

2.1 9.9 2.5 1.6 0.4 4.1 0.3 2.9

Euromonitor International from official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research, store checks, trade interviews, trade sources

Table 9 % retail value rsp

Sales of Beauty and Personal Care by Distribution Format: % Analysis 2005-2010

2005 Store-Based Retailing Grocery Retailers Discounters 95.3 35.9 3.1

2006 95.0 35.0 3.1

2007 95.0 34.3 3.1

2008 94.9 34.2 3.2

2009 94.8 34.4 3.3

2010 94.7 34.6 3.2

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Small Grocery Retailers Convenience Stores Forecourt Retailers Independent Small Grocers Supermarkets/Hypermarkets Other Grocery Retailers Non-Grocery Retailers Health and Beauty Retailers Beauty Specialist Retailers Chemists/Pharmacies Parapharmacies/Drugstores Other Health and Beauty Retailers Mixed Retailers Department Stores Mass Merchandisers Variety Stores Warehouse Clubs Outdoor Markets Other Non-Grocery Retailers Non-Store Retailing Direct Selling Homeshopping Internet Retailing Vending Total
Source:

3.5 0.4 0.0 3.1 29.2 0.0 59.4 52.5 25.7 15.1 3.8 8.0 5.2 1.7 0.0 3.5 0.0 1.0 0.6 4.7 3.7 0.8 0.2 0.0 100.0

3.4 0.4 0.0 2.9 28.5 0.0 60.0 53.5 26.0 15.2 3.9 8.5 5.0 1.7 0.0 3.3 0.0 1.0 0.6 5.0 3.9 0.8 0.2 0.0 100.0

3.2 0.5 0.0 2.8 28.0 0.0 60.7 54.5 26.4 15.3 3.9 8.9 4.7 1.6 0.0 3.1 0.0 1.0 0.6 5.0 3.9 0.7 0.3 0.0 100.0

3.0 0.4 0.0 2.6 27.9 0.0 60.7 54.7 26.2 15.4 4.0 9.1 4.5 1.5 0.0 3.0 0.0 0.9 0.5 5.1 4.0 0.6 0.4 0.0 100.0

3.0 0.4 0.0 2.6 28.1 0.0 60.4 54.5 25.9 15.5 4.0 9.1 4.4 1.5 0.0 2.9 0.0 1.0 0.5 5.2 4.1 0.6 0.5 0.0 100.0

3.0 0.4 0.0 2.6 28.4 0.0 60.1 54.3 25.7 15.5 4.1 9.1 4.3 1.5 0.0 2.8 0.0 1.0 0.5 5.3 4.1 0.6 0.6 0.0 100.0

Euromonitor International from official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research, store checks, trade interviews, trade sources

Table 10

Sales of Beauty and Personal Care by Category and by Distribution Format: % Analysis 2010

% retail value rsp BC Store-Based Retailing Grocery Retailers Discounters Small Grocery Retailers Convenience Stores Forecourt Retailers Independent Small Grocers Supermarkets/Hypermarkets Other Grocery Retailers Non-Grocery Retailers Health and Beauty Retailers Beauty Specialist Retailers Chemists/Pharmacies Parapharmacies/Drugstores Other Health and Beauty Retailers Mixed Retailers Department Stores Mass Merchandisers Variety Stores Warehouse Clubs Outdoor Markets Other Non-Grocery Retailers 96.7 41.8 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 41.8 0.0 54.9 52.5 5.2 37.9 2.0 7.4 2.3 0.8 0.0 1.6 0.0 0.0 0.0 BS 90.7 56.2 7.3 3.5 0.6 0.0 2.9 45.4 0.0 34.4 25.6 8.3 10.1 3.7 3.5 7.0 2.6 0.0 4.4 0.0 1.9 0.0 CC 89.0 18.0 0.0 2.7 0.6 0.0 2.1 15.3 0.0 71.0 68.2 50.0 3.5 0.0 14.7 2.9 1.2 0.0 1.7 0.0 0.0 0.0 D 95.5 46.2 5.0 4.2 0.2 0.0 4.0 37.0 0.0 49.3 37.3 22.1 11.7 3.5 0.0 8.8 2.7 0.0 6.1 0.0 3.2 0.0 DP 96.7 80.1 6.8 10.3 0.8 0.0 9.5 63.1 0.0 16.7 13.2 5.9 4.0 3.3 0.0 3.4 1.1 0.0 2.3 0.0 0.0 0.0 F 93.2 4.5 0.1 0.2 0.2 0.0 0.0 4.1 0.0 88.7 84.8 70.5 0.3 7.3 6.8 0.5 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 3.4

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Non-Store Retailing Direct Selling Homeshopping Internet Retailing Vending Total

3.3 1.8 1.3 0.2 0.0 100.0 HC

9.3 7.0 1.0 1.3 0.0 100.0 MG 97.5 61.2 4.3 4.9 0.1 0.0 4.8 52.0 0.0 36.3 28.3 19.2 5.0 1.6 2.4 5.8 2.1 0.0 3.7 0.0 2.3 0.0 2.5 1.6 0.5 0.3 0.0 100.0

11.0 10.1 0.4 0.4 0.0 100.0 OC 99.6 51.1 3.2 5.8 0.7 0.0 5.1 42.2 0.0 48.4 47.2 1.8 41.2 4.2 0.0 0.4 0.2 0.0 0.2 0.0 0.0 0.8 0.4 0.2 0.0 0.3 0.0 100.0

4.5 3.0 1.1 0.4 0.0 100.0 SC 94.2 21.9 3.3 0.5 0.3 0.0 0.2 18.1 0.0 72.2 66.0 23.2 21.5 3.9 17.4 6.2 1.8 0.0 4.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 5.8 4.8 0.8 0.3 0.0 100.0

3.3 3.1 0.0 0.1 0.0 100.0 SU 98.0 26.3 1.7 1.8 0.6 0.0 1.2 22.8 0.0 71.7 68.1 21.9 28.8 4.7 12.7 3.4 1.0 0.0 2.3 0.0 0.3 0.0 2.0 1.7 0.0 0.3 0.0 100.0

6.8 5.0 0.0 1.8 0.0 100.0 SK 94.6 5.4 0.5 1.2 0.5 0.0 0.7 3.7 0.0 89.3 87.5 83.5 0.5 0.0 3.5 1.8 0.5 0.0 1.3 0.0 0.0 0.0 5.4 4.4 0.5 0.5 0.0 100.0

Store-Based Retailing Grocery Retailers Discounters Small Grocery Retailers Convenience Stores Forecourt Retailers Independent Small Grocers Supermarkets/Hypermarkets Other Grocery Retailers Non-Grocery Retailers Health and Beauty Retailers Beauty Specialist Retailers Chemists/Pharmacies Parapharmacies/Drugstores Other Health and Beauty Retailers Mixed Retailers Department Stores Mass Merchandisers Variety Stores Warehouse Clubs Outdoor Markets Other Non-Grocery Retailers Non-Store Retailing Direct Selling Homeshopping Internet Retailing Vending Total
Source: Key:

96.7 40.7 4.6 5.3 0.6 0.0 4.7 30.9 0.0 56.0 47.7 11.7 14.2 7.2 14.6 5.4 1.7 0.0 3.7 0.0 2.9 0.0 3.2 1.8 1.1 0.4 0.0 100.0

Euromonitor International from official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research, store checks, trade interviews, trade sources BC = baby care; BS = bath and shower; CC = colour cosmetics; D = deodorants; DP = depilatories; F = fragrances; HC = hair care; MG = mens grooming; OC = oral care; SC = skin care; SU = sun care; SK = sets/kits

Table 11 EUR million

Forecast Sales of Beauty and Personal Care by Category: Value 2010-2015

2010 Baby Care Bath and Shower Colour Cosmetics Deodorants Depilatories Fragrances Hair Care Men's Grooming Oral Care Oral Care excl Power Toothbrushes Skin Care 201.1 1,103.6 933.4 483.6 89.7 1,038.1 1,318.8 724.3 1,045.5 982.1 1,819.4

2011 199.5 1,106.8 916.7 491.7 88.1 1,029.2 1,320.5 735.7 1,044.5 981.3 1,787.2

2012 200.3 1,111.7 904.9 498.7 88.1 1,018.5 1,316.7 748.9 1,045.8 982.9 1,770.9

2013 200.7 1,117.2 904.5 507.0 88.3 1,002.7 1,303.1 762.9 1,045.2 982.4 1,769.8

2014 200.9 1,113.1 902.0 513.0 89.2 988.6 1,295.6 780.0 1,040.5 977.9 1,774.4

2015 200.7 1,134.6 904.4 519.6 89.0 980.4 1,286.0 800.1 1,037.7 975.3 1,778.5

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Sun Care Sets/Kits Premium Cosmetics Mass Cosmetics Beauty and Personal Care
Source: Note 1: Note 2:

360.7 180.2 2,496.3 4,942.7 9,063.4

361.4 189.8 2,477.8 4,925.0 9,022.7

361.8 200.9 2,465.3 4,919.2 9,003.9

367.7 213.7 2,457.8 4,928.5 9,002.4

367.7 228.0 2,455.3 4,928.1 8,993.6

371.8 241.2 2,461.2 4,956.0 9,023.2

Euromonitor International from trade associations, trade press, company research, trade interviews, trade sources Premium cosmetic sales are additionally included within baby care, bath and shower, deodorants, colour cosmetics, hair care, fragrances, skin care and sun care Sum of categories is greater than market size because the four mens toiletries categories are included in mens grooming as well as in bath and shower, deodorants, hair care and skin care.

Table 12

Forecast Sales of Beauty and Personal Care by Category: % Value Growth 2010-2015

% constant value growth 2010-15 CAGR Baby Care Bath and Shower Colour Cosmetics Deodorants Depilatories Fragrances Hair Care Men's Grooming Oral Care Oral Care excl Power Toothbrushes Skin Care Sun Care Sets/Kits Premium Cosmetics Mass Cosmetics Beauty and Personal Care
Source: Note 1: Note 2:

2010/15 TOTAL -0.2 2.8 -3.1 7.4 -0.7 -5.6 -2.5 10.5 -0.7 -0.7 -2.2 3.1 33.8 -1.4 0.3 -0.4

0.0 0.6 -0.6 1.4 -0.1 -1.1 -0.5 2.0 -0.1 -0.1 -0.5 0.6 6.0 -0.3 0.1 -0.1

Euromonitor International from trade associations, trade press, company research, trade interviews, trade sources Premium cosmetic sales are additionally included within baby care, bath and shower, deodorants, colour cosmetics, hair care, fragrances, skin care and sun care Sum of categories is greater than market size because the four mens toiletries categories are included in mens grooming as well as in bath and shower, deodorants, hair care and skin care.

Table 13 EUR million

Forecast Sales of Premium Cosmetics by Category: Value 2010-2015

2010 Premium Baby Care Premium Bath and Shower Premium Colour Cosmetics Premium Deodorants Premium Fragrances Premium Hair Care Premium Skin Care Premium Sun Care Premium Sets/Kits Premium Cosmetics
Source: Note:

2011 6.7 40.6 246.2 32.0 775.5 129.3 946.9 152.8 147.8 2,477.8

2012 6.8 41.0 242.8 32.9 767.6 129.5 935.0 152.2 157.4 2,465.3

2013 6.7 41.5 242.3 34.0 755.1 126.5 931.0 152.0 168.7 2,457.8

2014 6.8 41.3 241.1 34.9 743.2 125.2 932.3 149.8 180.6 2,455.3

2015 6.9 43.7 242.0 34.3 738.2 124.2 929.8 150.0 192.1 2,461.2

6.7 40.4 250.5 33.9 781.5 129.5 963.3 151.4 139.2 2,496.3

Euromonitor International from trade associations, trade press, company research, trade interviews, trade sources Premium cosmetic sales are additionally included within baby care, bath and shower, colour cosmetics, deodorants, fragrances, hair care, sets/kits, skin care and sun care.

Table 14

Forecast Sales of Premium Cosmetics by Category: % Value Growth 2010-2015

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% constant value growth 2010-15 CAGR Premium Baby Care Premium Bath and Shower Premium Colour Cosmetics Premium Deodorants Premium Fragrances Premium Hair Care Premium Skin Care Premium Sun Care Premium Sets/Kits Premium Cosmetics
Source: Note:

2010/15 TOTAL 2.8 8.3 -3.4 1.3 -5.5 -4.0 -3.5 -0.9 38.0 -1.4

0.6 1.6 -0.7 0.3 -1.1 -0.8 -0.7 -0.2 6.7 -0.3

Euromonitor International from trade associations, trade press, company research, trade interviews, trade sources Premium cosmetic sales are additionally included within baby care, bath and shower, colour cosmetics, deodorants, fragrances, hair care, sets/kits, skin care and sun care.

DEFINITIONS
This report analyses the market for Beauty and Personal Care in Italy. For the purposes of the study, the market has been defined as follows: Baby care Bath and shower Colour cosmetics Deodorants Depilatories Fragrances Hair care Mens grooming Oral care Skin care Sun care Sets/kits

Sources used during research include the following:


Summary 1 Research Sources Unione Industriali Como Unipro Trade Press AL AL Prodotti in dettaglio Alleanza Salute Allure Beauty Business News Beauty Experience Business People

Trade Associations

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Cosmade.com Cosmetique News Donna Moderna ECM Editoriale Largo Consumo European Cosmetic Markets Farma Mese Financial Times Forbes GDO Week Happi Magazine IAP Igiene & Bellezza Igine e Bellezza Imagine Imagine Dossier International Cosmetique News Io e il mio bambino Italia Oggi La Stampa Laboratorio di Marketing Largo Consumo Mark up Marketpress Mass market Mercati & Imprese Mercato Italia Non Food Pambianco News Partnership Prodotti & Mercati Soap Perfumery & Cosmetics Uni Credit Banca Mobiliare
Source: Euromonitor International

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