U10FT403

KNITTED FABRIC STRUCTURE

3 0 0 4 100

Course Objectives: To enable students to, 1. Describe, with appropriate illustrations, the different types of stitches used in the production of knitted fabric and explain the working principles of patterning mechanisms 2. Give an illustrative account of different derivatives of plain jersey structures 3. Provide illustrative structural details of different derivatives of rib and interlock structures 4. Explain, with illustrations, typical structures used in warp knitted fabric 5. Describe different methods of patterning used in weft knitting and explain the principle of sock knitting Unit I 9 Basic Stitches and Pattern Mechanism

Knit stitch, float stitch, tuck stitch, symbolic (graph paper) representation of stitches, diagrammatic representation of stitches; Patterning mechanism: pattern wheel, pattern drum, peg drum machine, punched steel tape, jacquard punched paper roll jacquard, electronic devices for needle selection Unit II 9 Derivatives of Plain Jersey Structures

Derivatives of plain knit: LeCoste, cross tuck, satin, knitted twill, honey comb, popcorn, jersey blister, French terry, thick fleece, ribbed effect, plaiting, seer sucker effect, accordion type of fabrics Unit III 9 Derivatives of Rib and Interlock Structures

Ornamentation of rib structure 2 2 rib structure, half cardigan, full cardigan, derivatives of inter lock structures; eight lock, Ponte-di-Roma, Ottoman rib, Bourrelet, Texi-pique, Pin-Juck, Milano rib, French Pique, Swiss Pique Unit IV 9 Warp Knitted Structures

Representation of warp knit structures - point paper, chain-link notation, single fabrics: chain stitch, tricot lap, extension of 1-and-1 lapping, full tricot, lock knit, reverse lock knit, satin, loop raided fabrics, queens cord, sharkskin, blind lap, open work effects, hexagonal net Unit V 9 Patterning and Socks Knitting

Patterning in weft knitting single jersey patterning with multi-cam tracks plain stitch with single feeder, knit-and-miss stitches two-feeder, three-feeder, four-feeder supply; coloured

patterning in weft knitting two-colour, three-colour patterns; Striped patterns horizontal stripe patterns vertical stripe patterns square patterns; socks knitting socks shaping, yarn passage - fabric construction Total: 45 hours TEXT BOOKS 1. Ajgaonkar D.B, Knitted Technology, Universal Publishing Corporation, Mumbai, 1998 2. Anbumani N., Knitting Fundamentals, Machines, Structures and Developments, New Age International Publishers, New Delhi, 2007 REFERENCES 1. Spencer D.J., Knitting Technology, Woodhead Publishing Limited, England, 3rd Edition, 2001

U10FT404

WOVEN FABRIC STRUCTURE AND DESIGN

3 0 0 4 100

Course Objectives: To enable students to, 1. Explain the elementary features of woven design and explain the construction of different elementary weaves with appropriate diagrams 2. Elucidate the constructional details of various special weaves with necessary drawings 3. Discuss colour theories and discuss, with apt figures, the spot figuring of dobby and jacquard fabrics 4. Illustrate the design details of reversible fabric and warp and weft pile fabrics 5. Explain the weaves of double fabrics Unit I 9 Elementary Weaves

Elements of woven design: Design, draft, peg plan, its types and purpose Construction of elementary weaves: plain, warp rib, weft rib, matte rib; Twill: Derivatives of twill weave, Herringbone twill, rectilinear twill and zigzag twill; Satin, sateen and derivatives; Honeycomb, ordinary and Brighton honeycomb; Crepe weaves, its modifications Unit II 9 Special Weaves

Bedford cords: Plain-faced Bedford cords, twill-faced Bedford cords, wadded Bedford cords Welt and piques: Loose back and fast back welts and piques, wadded welts and piques Mock leno: Perforated mock leno, distorted mock leno Unit III 9 Colour Theory and Extra Figured Design

Colour theory: Light and pigment theory, modification of colour, colour combination, application of colours, colour and weave effects Spot figuring: Basic dobby, jacquard designs; Arrangement of motifs in dobby and jacquard designs; Extra-warp and extra-weft figuring; Extra-warp and extra-weft figuring with two colours Unit IV 9 Reversible and Pile Fabric

Backed fabrics: Warp and weft back, reversible and non-reversible; Warp pile: Fast wire pile, terry weaves, terry stripe, terry check; Weft pile: plain back, twill-back velveteen, lashed-pile corduroy, weft plush

Unit V 9

Double Cloth

Double cloth: Classification, self-stitched, face-to-back, back-to-face, combination face-to-back and back-to-face stitched double cloth; Centre-warp and weft-stitched double cloth Wadded double cloth: Weft and warp wadded double cloth Total: 45 hours TEXT BOOKS 1. Grosicki, Z., Watson's Textile Design and Colour: Elementary Weaves and Figured Fabrics, London: Butterworth and Co., 1975 2. Grosicki, Z., Watson's Advanced Textile Design: Compound Woven Structures, London: Butterworth and Co., 1977 3. Gokarneshan N., Fabric Structure and Design, New Age International (P) Limited, 2009 REFERENCES 1. H. Nisbet, Grammar of Textile Design, Taraporewala and Sons Co. Pvt. Ltd., 1994 2. W.S. Murphy, Textile Weaving and Design, Abhishek Publications, 2000

U10FT405

GARMENT PRODUCTION MACHINERY AND EQUIPMENT

3 0 0 4 100

Course Objectives: To enable students to, 1. Discuss various types of fabric packages encountered in fabric spreading and explain the various methods in use for spreading. 2. Describe the types and functions of various fabric cutting machines 3. Explain the various types of needles, sewing threads, seams and stitches 4. Discuss the properties of different seams and stitches and the basic parts of sewing machines 5. Explain the functions and working principles of different sewing machines Unit I Spreading 9 Types of fabric packages; types of fabrics: one way, two way fabrics; their effect on spreading; methods of fabric spreading; spreading equipment; computerized spreaders; marker making; marker efficiency; factors affecting marker efficiency; marker duplicating methods; computer aided marker making Unit II 9 Cutting Machines

Introduction to cutting machines; types and functions of cutting machines; straight knife, round knife, band knife cutting machines; notches, drills, die cutting machines; computerized cutting machines; maintenance of cutting machines; common defects in cutting and their remedies Unit III 9 Parts of Sewing Machine

Types of needles, parts of needles and their function, needle size, sewing thread, properties of sewing threads, ticket number, fabric sewability; Basic parts of a sewing machine: needle, bobbin case/bobbin hook, loopers, loop spreader, threading fingers, throat plate, tongue chaining plates, take up devices, tensioners, feed dog, presser foot, folders and attachments Unit IV 9 Sewing Machine Settings

Classification of sewing machines; basic SNLS machine: parts and their functions, adjustments, stand height, pedal, needle bar, presser foot, feed dog, differential feed ratio, reverse feed, stitch length selection, feed timing, needle and bobbin thread tension, stitch cycle timing diagram; Maintenance of SNLS machine; Common defects and remedies

Unit V 9

Specialised Sewing Machines

Special purpose sewing machines: Feed-off-the-arm, button-hole sewing, button-sewing, bar tack, blind stitch machines, over-lock machine, double-needle lock stitch machine, elastic-band attaching machine, multi-needle chain stitch machine, single-needle machine with under-bed trimmer; Automation in sewing machines: automatic pocket sewing machine; Unit production system; Computerised sewing machines Total: 45 hours

TEXTBOOKS 1. Harold Carr and Barbara Latham, The Technology of Clothing Manufacture, Om Book Service, 1994 2. Laing R.M., Webster J, Stitches and Seams, The Textile Institute, Manchester, UK, 1998 REFERENCES 1. Shaeffer Claire, Sewing for the Apparel Industry, Prentice Hall, New Jersey, 2001 2. Singer Sewing Reference Library, Sewing Lingerie, Cy DeCosse Incorporated, Minnesota, 1991 3. Jacob Solinger, Apparel Manufacturing Handbook, Reinhold Publications, 1998

U10FT406

CHEMICAL PROCESSING OF TEXTILES AND GARMENTS

3 0 0 3 100

Course Objectives: To enable students to, 1. Explain the various grey preparatory processes for cotton textiles and essential features of the machinery used 2. Discuss the properties and application of common textile dyes to cotton and polyester and their blends and explain the working principles of dyeing machinery prevalent in industry 3. Give an account of the different methods and styles of printing of textile fabric and garments 4. Describe the commonly used aesthetic and functional finishes in textiles 5. Explain the principles involved in dye-house effluent treatment and state eco-friendly ways of achieving it UNIT- I 10 Grey Preparation

Singeing: Purpose and process, principles of plate, roller and gas singeing machines their relative merits and demerits, the precautions in singeing, yarn singeing Desizing: Purpose and process, rot steeping, acid desizing and enzyme desizing, their relative advantages and disadvantages Scouring: Purpose and process, batch, semi-continuous and continuous methods of scouring Bleaching of cotton goods with sodium hypochlorite, hydrogen peroxide and sodium chlorite, half bleach, full bleach and optical brighteners Mercerisation: objects and principle of mercerisation: yarn mercerisation, fabric mercerisation: outline of pad-less chainless fabric mercerisation Principles of working of machines used in grey preparation, two-bowl and three-bowl padding mangles; jigger, winch, J-box, open-width washing

UNIT- II 11

Dyeing

Fundamentals: Classification of colorants, difference between dye and pigment, common terms used in textile colouration, different kinds of dye-fibre bonds for common fibres Direct dyes: Properties and classification, dyeing of cotton with direct dyes Reactive dyes: Properties and classification, basic chemical reactions between reactive dye and cellulose, dyeing of cotton with M, H, HE, ME and VS reactive dyes Vat dyes: Properties and classification, basic chemical reactions in vat dyeing, dyeing of cotton with vat dyes Disperse dyes: properties and classification, dyeing of polyester with disperse dyes by batch and continuous methods, polyester/cellulosic blends dyeing by batch and continuous methods

Colour fastness: Outline of test methods for colour fastness of dyed goods to washing, rubbing and light Principle of computer-aided colour matching Dyeing equipment: Principles of working of machines mentioned in Unit I, jet-dyeing machine, soft-overflow jet dyeing machine, hank-yarn and package-yarn dyeing machines, garment dyeing machines

UNIT-III 8

Printing

Methods of printing: Principles of block printing, roller printing, flat-bed and rotary-screen printing, and transfer printing techniques Styles of printing: Principles of direct, discharge and resist styles of printing; principles of batik printing, kalamkari printing and flock printing; printing with reactive dyes Printing with pigments; study of chest and rotary screen printing machines for knitted goods

UNIT-IV 8

Finishing

Classification of textile finishes Mechanical finishes: calendering, swissing, chasing, friction-calendering, felt calendaring, Schreiner calendaring and embossing, mechanical shrinking (Sanforising), Compacting of knitted fabric Outline of functional and aesthetic finishes: wrinkle-free finishing of cotton fabric (resin finishing), UV-protective finish, antimicrobial finish, flame-retardant finish, water-repellent finish, soil release finish UNIT V 8 Process House Effluent and its Treatment

Nature of effluents in chemical processing, effect of waste water discharge on the environment, Government standards for textile chemical process effluent discharges Treatment of dye house effluent: the constraints, the operations in an ETP and methods for removal of colour in dye house effluent Toxic chemicals and pollutants in textile chemical processing, azo dyes and major banned amines, guidelines for eco-friendly processing Total: hours TEXTBOOK/S 45

1. Koushik C. V. and Antao Irwin Josico, Chemical Processing of Textiles Grey Preparation and Dyeing NCUTE Publication, New Delhi, 2004 (Units 1, 2 and 5) 2. Shenai V. A., Technology of Finishing Sevak Publications, Mumbai, 1995, Nitra, Pollution Control in Textile 3. D G Dugg and S Sinclair, Giles's Laboratory Course in Dyeing, Woodhead Publishing Limited (Fourth edition) December 1989 REFERENCES 1. Shenai V. A., Technology of Textile Processing Vol. III, IV, V, VII and VIII, Sevak Publications, Mumbai, 1995 2. Palmer John W., Textile Processing and Finishing Aids: Recent Advances, Mahajan Book Distributors, 1996 3. Ronald James W., Printing and Dyeing of Fabrics and Plastics, Mahajan Book Distributors, 1996 4. Dr. C. N. Sivaramakrishnsn, A compilation of 10 papers, Colorage 5. L. W. C Wiles, Textile Printing (Merrow Monographs. Textile Technology Series)

SEMESTER IV-PRACTICAL COURSES

U10FT407

GARMENTING COMPONENTS LABORATORY

0 0 3 2 100

Course Objectives: To enable students to, 1. Construct different types of seams, seam finishes, darts, tucks and pleats to acceptable quality levels 2. Stitch different types of plackets to acceptable quality levels 3. Construct different neckline finishes such as bias binding, facing and collars to acceptable quality levels 4. Stitch various types of pockets to acceptable quality levels 5. Construct different types of sleeves to acceptable quality levels

List of Experiments (An average of 2 lab sessions per experiment) 1. Preparing samples of basic seams, seam finishes, darts, tucks and pleats 2. Preparing samples of plackets placket, 3. Preparing samples of necklines 4. Preparing samples of collars 5. Preparing samples of pockets 6. Preparing samples of Sleeves Continuous bound placket, 2 piece placket, tailors fly opening and zipper Bias facing, bias binding and shaped facing Peter Pan collar, shirt collar, shawl collar, sailor collar Patch, bound and front hip pocket Plain, puff, raglan kimono, bell sleeve

Total: 45 hours

U10FT408

CHEMICAL PROCESSING OF TEXTILES LABORATORY

0 0 3 2 100

Course Objectives: To enable students to, 1. 2. 3. 4. Perform lab-scale scouring, bleaching, dyeing and printing of given textile materials Assess the colour fastness of dyed textiles to washing and rubbing Determine the shrinkage of woven fabric Describe processes for dyeing using lab-scale machinery and for computer colour matching

List of Experiments 1. Scouring of cotton using alkali-boiling method 2. Scouring of cotton using enzymes 3. Bleaching of cotton using sodium hypochlorite and hydrogen peroxide 4. Dyeing of cotton with direct dyes 5. Dyeing of cotton with M, H brand reactive dyes 6. Dyeing of cotton with HE and ME/VS brand reactive dyes 7. Dyeing of cotton with vat dyes 8. Dyeing of silk, wool or nylon fabric with acid dyes 9. Determination of colour fastness to washing and rubbing 10. Determination of shrinkage for woven fabrics 11. Direct printing of cotton 12. Discharge and resist styles of printing on cotton

Demonstration classes 13. Dyeing of cotton fabric with pigments using padding method and the dyeing of cotton fabric with vat dyes by the pad-jig method 14. Dyeing of polyester using a lab-scale HTHP machine and dyeing of knitted fabric in a lab-model winch machine 15. Computer-aided colour matching Total: 45 hours

U10FT409

TEXTILE CAD AND FABRIC STRUCTURE LABORATORY

0 0 3 2 100

Course Objectives: To enable students to, 1. 2. 3. 4. Analyse common woven fabrics and develop the related design, draft and peg plan Determine the cloth particulars for given fabrics Utilise effectively the different tools in textile CAD software Create/Develop different textile design and prepare their 2D simulations

LIST OF EXPERIMENTS Analysis of woven designs: 1. Woven Designs: Plain, twill, satin- huck-a-back, mock-leno, honey comb 2. Dobby and jacquard cloth analysis 3. Extra warp and extra weft figuring 4. Warp backed and Weft backed fabrics and terry towels Study and practise of 5. Different tools used in textile CAD software Development of 6. Dobby Design and preparation of its 2D simulation 7. Jacquard Design and preparation of its 2D simulation 8. Print Design and preparation of its 2D simulation 9. Dobby design with different weaves 10. Jacquard design and preparation of a punched card for the design TOTAL: 45 hours