INTRODUCTION:

In this article I am going to explain the basic fundamentals of a not-so-hard

shadetree mechanic head conversion on a 4.2L 258ci engine block. As I'm
sure any Jeeper knows, these are the engines that mainly came in the CJs
and early YJs. After several months of research, I came upon some
discoveries about putting a 4.0L head on a 4.2L block. Apparently the block
on a 4.2L and 4.0L are very similar except the 4.2L has a longer stroke and a
few design differences. After I sent several e-mails trying to find out more
information about this conversion, I was informed that this conversion is
possible and can provide a 40HP gain. That's right, 40HP! I was a little
surprised myself. Not only does this conversion add more HP, but I have read
that people have experienced a substantial increase in gas mileage; approx.
17-18%.

I began searching for a 4.0L head and found just what I was looking for at
Koller Dodge (check their website for more details). They provided a
remanufactured head, completely rebuilt and basically new. From here there
are a couple of retro-fit modifications needed to make this work right. Don't
worry, they don't require any difficult procedures or special tools. Below is a
picture of my new 4.0L head upon arrival via UPS.

PARTS LIST:

- 4.0L Head Provided by Koller Dodge

- 4.0L Head Gasket
- 4.0L Exhaust Manifold or Header
- Exhaust Manifold Gasket
- 4.0L Valve Cover
- 4.0L Valve Cover Gasket
- Tubes of QuikSteel Epoxy Putty
- Sand Paper (fine)

REMOVAL OF OLD 4.2L HEAD:

This part was a dream come true. I have wanted to remove the old head and
intake system for as long as I've owned the Jeep. I started by removing the air
cleaner, valve cover, power steering pump, radiator hoses, etc. NOTE: I didn't
remove the Carter carb and intake yet because I had other plans involved with
the intake system. (Check next months issue for more details) Anyway, after
removing the rocker-retaining bolts and removing all of the rocker arms and
rods, I then removed the head bolts. Now the old 4.2L head is ready for
removal. The pictures below show the head removal process.

(Click on images for large view)

INSPECTION AND CLEANING:

After the 4.2L head, intake, and carb was removed, I was really surprised to
see how clean the cylinder walls and pistons were. This engine currently has
98,000 miles on it and appears to be in really good condition. I was afraid that
I would discover some problems upon removing the head like excessive
carbon build-up or scratched cylinder walls. I guess it makes sense since the
engine never burned oil. Well anyway, I cleaned whatever I could while the
head was off. I scraped off the entire surface before installing the new head.

INSTALLATION: PART 1:

The first step is to prepare the head for installation. After you've obtained all
the parts from the parts list, you will need to perform the following task. In
order for the 4.0L head to work on the 4.2L block, I had to fill in a couple of
water jackets in the 4.0L head. They are the small triangular water jackets on
the same side as the intake. These must be filled because on the 4.2L block
these water jackets don't exist. I made a couple of calls and came to the
conclusion that the best way to fill these holes is to use a high temp epoxy
putty. I bought two tubes of QuikSteel. This is a 500 degree max temp super
strength epoxy putty found at most auto parts stores.

Since the holes in the head expand inside it makes it much easier if you use
foam-packing peanuts to fill in the holes. I used one packing peanut for each
hole. This makes applying the epoxy much easier. Don't worry, the foam
peanut will dissolve. After filling in the holes, make sure there aren't any burs
or pieces of epoxy sticking up above the head's surface. I used some fine
sandpaper to ensure the head would match perfectly to the head gasket. It's
very important that the head is completely smooth to ensure no head leaks,
compression loss, or blown head gaskets, etc. Below are some pictures of the
holes filled in.

(Click on images for large view)

BEFORE PLUGGING WATER JACKETS:

AFTER PLUGGING WATER JACKETS:

DIAGRAM 1.3

This diagram shows exactly which holes need to be filled on the new 4.0L
head in order for the conversion to work. NOTE: It's very important that you
plug only the holes that are shown in the diagram. If you accidentally plug
additional holes in the head it could cause your engine to overheat or cause
other problems. See diagram below for details.

INSTALLATION: PART 2:

After the preparation of the head is complete, you're ready for the installation
of the new 4.0L head. I suggest having a friend help place the new head on
top of the 4.2L block. The head alone weighs 77lbs and when you're trying to
line up the head on the block while also trying to align the head gasket all at
the same time, it would be very difficult as a one man job. I started by placing
the new head gasket on the 4.2L block, then with the help of my friend Nate,
we lowered the head down onto the block. It was surprising how well the head
lines up. It appeared to fit as perfect as the 4.2L head.

(Click on images for large view)

INSTALLATION: PART 3:

After placing the head onto the 4.2L block, it's time to mount it down. It's
recommended that you use new head bolts because of accuracy, but the old
head bolts will still work. For my application, I used the old head bolts. A new
set of cylinder head bolts are $17.00 from Mopar Performance (Part #:
4529204). I was unable to find new head bolts in time for the installation. It's
very important that you torque the head bolts down in order and to the right
torque specifications. I created a little diagram below to view. A similar
diagram can be obtained in a Haynes or Chilton's repair manual. The first
round, you want to torque the head bolts down to 22lbs of pressure. (I
recommend using a quality torque wrench for better accuracy). On the second
round of tightening the head bolts, torque them to 45 lbs of pressure. On the
last round, tighten all the head bolts to 110 lbs of pressure except head bolt
#11, you must torque this bolt to 100 lbs of pressure. NOTE: Before installing
the Number 11 head bolt, put some Loctite 592 sealant on the bolt. All these
torque ratios aren't custom or created for this installation; these are basic
head bolt tightening specs, and can be obtained in your Jeep repair manual
as well. Click on Diagram 1.1 for printable size.

(Click on images for large view)

Diagram 1.1 Torque Sequence

INSTALLATION: PART 4:

The next thing to do is install all the rods and rockers. When doing so, you will
want to set the engine at TDC (Top Dead Center). This means the number
one piston must be at the top of the cylinder. To obtain this, you must move
the harmonic damper until the mark is directly pointed at the 0 position on the
timing settings. After the motor is verified to be at TDC, place the rods into
position as you took them out. After placing all the rods back into position,
mount the rockers back on as you took them off. When bolting the rockers
down, it is very important that you don't under or over tighten them. The
dealership recommended torque specs say to torque them to 19 lbs.

Now that the head is in position and mounted, you can place the valve cover
on. Be sure to use a new cork valve cover gasket. I'm not sure of the torque
specs for the valve cover, but it's specified in your Haynes repair manual.
Check your Haynes or Chilton repair manual for exact specs. Below are some
pictures of my Jeep with its new 4.0L head and valve cover mounted in
position.

(Click on images for large view)

INSTALLATION: PART 5:

Now that the 4.0L head is mounted and ready, you're going to need a 4.0L
header or exhaust manifold. For my application, I had a friend that had a
spare 4.0L header from an 88' Jeep Cherokee lying around. Since my project
is on a budget, I put this header on for now. I highly recommend using a Borla
header. Be aware that the intake manifold and exhaust use a lot of the same
mounting bolts. There is no need to customize anything, except you'll need to
mount the intake manifold and exhaust at the same time. There is also a
specific torque sequence and lb. amount for these bolts as well. I created
another chart to specify these torque sequences. Torque the intake/exhaust
manifold to 23 ft/lbs. (Click on Diagram 1.2 for printable size)

Diagram 1.2 Torque Sequence

INSTALLATION: PART 6:

After completing the installation of the new head, it's recommended that you
use different spark plugs. For my Jeep, I bought Bosch Platinum platinum +4
plugs. They're a little more expensive than most and I'm not sure if they will
even make a difference, but I figured I would give them a try. Torque the
spark plugs to 27 ft/lbs.

INSTALLATION: PART 7:

From here, put your carb back onto the intake manifold including all the
vacuum lines, fuel lines, etc as you took them off. Hopefully you marked all
the hoses and lines so that they can easily be put back in their proper
locations. If not, the vacuum diagrams can be obtained in the Chilton or
Haynes repair manual. Everything should bolt right back into position except
the rear power steering pump mounting bracket. This needed a little
modification, which is pretty self-explanatory upon installation.

4.0L HEAD CONVERSION FINAL EVALUATION:

The overall conclusion of my 4.0L head conversion was definitely two thumbs
up. The cost was fairly inexpensive compared to the amount of power gained.
Although I've done minor engine repairs and modifications before, I have
never done anything even remotely close to this and, to my surprise, it was
pretty easy. The overall preparation, old head removal, and new head
installation took about 5 - 6 hours. This may vary depending on the tools
used. I can't say exactly my overall results of the power since I'm currently
adding additional engine modifications. (See next months issue for more
details). I can say that from speaking with fellow Jeepers on the Internet that
have performed the same conversion the overall performance increase is
substantial and well worth the time.
 Jeep 258 Performance Upgrades
4.0 L Cylinder Head Conversion on 258
By Tim Weaver
(Web page created, edited and maintained by John (Jaffer) Foutz

4.0L Head on 258 Block

Engine & Photo - John Foutz

The 258 or 4.2L Jeep Engine was designed by American Motors in the late 60’s and
first put into Jeeps and AMC production cars in 1970. The 258 is the same block as the
232 with a crankshaft with a longer stroke. This longer crank is what makes the 258 a
great motor for 4-Wheeling, because it provides low-end torque for rock crawling. But,
sometimes we like to go up hills, pull trailers and pass other cars. The cylinder head on
the 4.0-Liter Jeep engine will provide more horsepower to allow you to do some of
these things. Match the 4.0L Head with the 258 block and now, you have the best of
both.

The problem with the 258 is that it does not breathe really well. Improved Flow that’s
what racers are looking for when they rebuild heads for performance engines. The
difference between the 4.0L head and the 258 Head is the angle of the port. On the 258
Head, the Air/Fuel has to come in and make a 90-degree turn from the port into the
cylinder. The 4.0L Head has a higher port designed with a straighter shot in to the
cylinder from the intake manifold. This improved flow is what provides an engine with
more horsepower. See the diagram below.

258/4.2L Cylinder Head

 4.0L Cylinder Head

This performance upgrade should add about 40 HP more. This is only what I’ve been
told. I don’t know anyone who has put it on a dyno to find out. You should also see an
increase in gas mileage. One person that I E-mailed about a year ago said he went from
13 to 17 MPG. This will pay for it’s self-one day.

4.0L Head Ports

258/4.2L Head Ports

What do you need?

A Complete 4.0L Head
1. Valves
2. Valve Springs
3. Retainers & Locks
4. Rocker Arms and Pivot Assemblies

4.0L Head Gasket

New 1/2 inch Head Bolts
4.0L Exhaust Manifold or 4.0L Header.
4.0L Exhaust Manifold Gasket
4.0L Valve Cover
The 4.0L head has a smaller combustion chamber than the old 4.2L/258 on the left.

Additional Cylinder Head Options:

There are several different options that will supply additional performance.
These will all add a few horses for each one. It depends on how much investment you
want to make in your engine. How much is it worth for 5 - 40 additional horsepower.
Contact your machine shop for the cost of each and how much power will be added.

1. 3 Angle Valve Job

A 3 Angle Valve Job will provide better seating of the valves when closed. This
is highly recommended over a standard valve job, if installing a used 4.0L Head

2. Porting Cylinder Head

Porting a Cylinder Head removes excess metal and restrictions from the
cylinder port. This allows more Air/Fuel to flow into the cylinder. Improved Flow
could add an additional 5-40 HP, but at a price. Porting can be expensive,
because it is labor intensive. The result of porting could be unknown. Lots of
machine shops know how to port a 350 Chevy Head, but may never attempt a 6-
cyl. Watch your Cost to Horsepower Ratio, Is 5 HP worth $500?

3. Deck Head

Decking or Milling of the Cylinder Head will allow for a slight increase in engine
compression, eliminate any slight warping, and ensure the seal between the
block and the head. Highly recommend when installing a used cylinder head.
The head must have less that .003 of an inch run-out.

4. Hi-performance Valve Springs

High performance Valve Springs will allow the valve to close faster on both
intake and exhaust stokes.

5. How much horsepower increase will I see?

This performance upgrade should add about 25-40 HP more. This is only what I’ve
been told. I don’t know anyone who has put it on a dyno to find out. However, everyone
that I have talked said, "It is a noticeable performance gain."

6. Do I need to seal off the water ports on the 4.0L Head?

4.0L Head Water Jackets

Both the 4.2L and 4.0L Heads have the water jackets between each of the cylinders.
On the 4.2L head these are round and on the 4.0L these are triangular.

Important!
Check for head overlap and water jacket exposure at the block-to head surface on the
manifold side.
There are twelve triangular shaped water jacket holes all along the manifold side of the
head.
Both Hesco and Clifford Performance welds these areas on their 4.0 head conversion
kits.
Check the head against your block for head overlap and water jacket exposure,
especially around the side indents.
Weld, epoxy, or freeze plug these offending areas for insurance against leaking. Many
have no problems in this area. Others have reported water jacket exposure of as much
as 1/16" on heads that overlap their blocks.

• Welding Method: The jackets are welded closed and the surface is then decked
(machined flat).
• Epoxy Method: Fill the triangular ports with JB Weld (high temp epoxy) after
packing the holes with water soluble packing bubbles/worms. The epoxy can
be smoothed with a large file or the surface decked my machine.
• Freeze Plug method: Machine tapered holes over the triangular ports and insert
•

• 3/4" freeze plugs. Photo by: Mark

Banks

7. Do I have to change the push rods?

 No. You may use the stock push rods from your 258/4.2L Engine.

8. Which Head Gasket do I use 4.0L or 4.2L?

You must use a 4.0L Head Gasket. The Mopar Performance Head Gasket is $13.85.
The Fel-Pro Head Gasket cost me $18.75. The Fel-Pro is a little thinner.
This will provide a slight increase in compression.

9. Do I have to buy a whole head rebuild gasket set just for the Head
Gasket?

No. Both Mopar Performance and Fel-Pro sell just the Head Gasket.

10. The MPI Kit has two alignment holes on the intake manifold.
The manifold does not match on the 4.0L Head?

Mopar MPI Kit on 4.0L Head Alignment Pins

MPI Kit fits both 4.2L Head and 4.0L Head.

The holes in the manifold are for the 4.2L and the notches below the holes are for the
4.0L head. These do not have to be removed.

11. What Spark Plugs do I use?

Champion RC-9YC4 Plugs. Gap at .035". This is one range cooler than standard.

12. Should I use and sealer like Permatex on the Head Gasket?

Do not use any type of sealer on any type of Head Gasket!

13. Should I use and sealer like Permatex on the Manifold Gasket?

I don't know that I would recommend this.

Hesco has recommended using a VERY thin film of Permatex Ultra Copper (in a
tube) to mate
the intake manifold gasket to the head. It has been said that any silicone based
sealants might
cause the oxygen sensor to prematurely fail.

14. Which Engine will I have to change the head bolts and have to tap
out the block?

Generally 1971-1980 and 1988-90 258/4.2L Engines have 1/2 inch Head Bolts. No
changes required.
1981 through 1987 engines have 7/16" Head Bolts. Do not reuse your old head bolts.
I would recommend new head bolts and have a machinist tap the block to ½ inch.
Clifford Performance does sell a kit with spacers which will center 7/16" bolts in the
1/2" holes in the head if you do not want to tap your block.

15. What torque specification should I use on the Head Bolts?

Both the Hayes and Chilton Manuals recommend 85 ft/lbs or all bolts except #11,
which should be torqued at 75 ft/lbs for the 4.2L Head. The 4.2L head uses an
aluminum-coated embossed steel head gasket and does not require the head bolts to
be retighten. The 4.0L Head use a different type of head gasket and has specific torque
sequence.

If you use a torque plate (Clifford rents these) bolted down on your block at the 4.0's
110/100 ft/lbs specs when you bore your block, you may torque your head down to
these tighter specs. Your newly hones cylinders will stretch out-of-round if you torque
to 110/100 ft/lbs. if you do not use a torque plate.

The Mopar Jeep Engines Manual (Speed Secrets & Racing Modifications for Jeep-
Built 4,6, & V8 Engines - 2nd Edition) recommends the follow sequence for torqueing
the 4.0L cylinder head.

New set of Cylinder Head Bolts are $16.75 from Mopar Performance without any
discount. (Part #: 4529204)
NOTE: Never reuse cylinder head bolts.
1. Coat stud bolt #11 with Loctite 592 sealant or equivalent.
2. Tighten all bolts to 22 ft/lbs following sequence.
3. Tighten all bolts to 45 ft/lbs following sequence.
4. Recheck all bolts at 45 ft/lbs following sequence.
5. Tighten all bolts to 110 ft/lbs, except #11 at 100 ft/lbs.

Torque Sequence Front

NOTE: All the manuals recommend using this pattern.

Torque Rocker Arm Assemblies to 19 ft/lbs.

Torque Spark Plugs to 27 ft/lbs
Torque Valve Cover bolts to 70 in/lbs

16. What torque specification should I use on the Intake and

Exhaust Manifold?
Torque the Intake/Exhaust Manifold to 23 ft/lbs.
Torque Sequence Front

Bolts 1, 10 and 11 are Studs with nuts.

Be sure to torque and retorque your exhaust manifold. A leaky exhaust manifold will
cause the problems with O2 and the computer on the MPI Kit and may cause pinging.
You’ll want to retorque your exhaust manifold after about 500 miles of driving.

NOTE: The factory manifold cup washers for a 4.0 are larger that those of a 4.2 setup.
The larger cupped washers may be required in some installations to bridge your new
manifold combination.

17. Can I use my old (4.2L) Intake Manifold?

Yes.

18. Do I have to add the Mopar MPI Kit for this upgrade?

No. You’ll be able to see a performance increase, by upgrading only the cylinder
head and using a carbureted induction system.

19. Can I use my old (4.2L) Valve Cover?

You will need a Valve Cover for 1985 and older 258 model engines. 1986 and above
share the same bolt pattern and gasket with the 4.0L engine. You have the options to
use either one.

20. Can I use my old (4.2L) Exhaust Manifold?

No.

21. What Exhaust Manifold do I use?

Any stock 4.0L Manifold will work from a Jeep Wrangler.

1989-95 Cherokees have a tube type stock header that will also work. They are much
stouter and are less prone to cracking than the Wrangler style.
Cherokee 4.0 head with O2 sensor fitting
If you purchase a used exhaust manifold, inspect carefully. Note: Some exhaust
manifolds do not have place for your 02 sensor. You will have to have the exhaust
manifold modified or have an exhaust pipe that will accept an 02 sensor.

22. My used exhaust manifold is cracked. Can it be fixed?

Yes. The later model manifolds from the Cherokees and Wranglers are stainless
steel and can be welded/reconditioned.

23. Can I install Headers instead of a Stock Manifold?

Yes, Mopar Performance, Borla and Clifford Performance all make headers for the
4.0L engine. You application may vary depending what on the model of your Jeep.

The Borla Header System included the exhaust pipe from the header to the cat and a
place for the 02 sensor. Plus, I didn't want to have a custom exhaust pipe made. Since I
had an 89-YJ, I am took a lead of faith the Borla Header will work from a 91 YJ. I did
have a talk with the Borla people before I ordered one. Savanna Jones $319.95 plus
shipping. Clifford Performance also sells a header for $251.50, but does not include the
pipe. Borla is Stainless Steel and is warranted for a million miles. I thought it was worth
the extra money. The Borla Header (Part #17019) does not fit on my Jeep with an
automatic transmission. I had to fabricate a new bracket for the automatic
transmission linkage and it clearance between header tube #1 and the motor mount is
very small. You will need to get a good quality manifold gasket. The one provided by
Borla does not fit properly with the intake manifold and cannot be used.

24. The MPI intake manifold does not fit properly with the exhaust
manifold?

The webbing on the intake between the 5th and 6th cylinders may need additional
clearance to fit properly over the exhaust manifold. The intake manifold will need to
ground back as much as .75 of an inch for proper clearance.
25. My Jeep’s engine has 135,000 miles can still install a 4.0L Head?

Yes, But I wouldn't recommend doing the MPI or 4.0L Head on a tired engine.

26. Can I install Roller Rocker Arms?

Yes, Mopar Performance and Clifford Performance and Hesco sells Roller Rocker
Arms for a 4.0L Head.

I believe that the 4.2L Rocker Arms will work on the 4.0L Head. 258. /4.2L and 304-V8
Share the same Rocker Arms and Hardware.
Roller Tips Rockers are available for the 304 at less cost than Mopar Performance
4.0L Roller Rockers.

27. How do I do this?

The following manuals have instructions for the removal 4.2L and installation of the
4.0L Head:
All Jeep Service Manuals
Chilton's
Hayes
Mopar Jeep Engines – 2nd Edition

Basic Procedure for 4.2L Cylinder Head

Removal
Before you start, clean up your engine compartment. Go to your local auto parts store,
Wal-Mart or K-Mart and pick up a can or two, maybe three, of Engine
Cleaner/Degreaser. Check the Instructions on the can. Spray the entire engine
compartment. Take your Jeep to the local self-serve car wash and remove as much dirt
and grease as possible. It’s much more fun to work on a clean engine.

Be careful not to spray water directly on your distributor. If you spray it directly, it may
be hard to start, when you’re finished. You may have to dry it out with a rag, if it gets
too wet and won’t start.

NOTE: These instructions are based on the Mopar Jeep Engine Manual – 2nd Edition
and my experience installing a 4.0L Head and a Mopar MPI Kit on my 1989 Wrangler
258 with an automatic transmission. Your removal and installation may vary depending
on the model of your Jeep. However, the basic steps should still be the same.

1. Remove the negative battery cable.

2. Drain coolant. You may want to save clean coolant and reuse.
3. Disconnect the heater hoses from thermostat housing.
4. Remove the Air Cleaner.
5. Remove crossover fuel line that goes from the Fuel Pump to the Carburetor.
This will be discarded with the installation of an MPI Kit.
6. Identify and Tag All Vacuum Hoses. Then Remove Vacuum Hoses. On the
newer 258’s, there are some vacuum switches for emissions control. If you are
not installing an MPI Kit, you’ll need to save these switches. If you are installing
the MPI Kit, these will be removed and discarded with the Valve Cover.
7. Remove PCV Hoses and PCV Valve from Valve Cover.
8. Disconnect the Vacuum Hose from the Distributor. Be sure to tag this hose, if
your are going to reinstall your carburetor.
9. Remove Valve Cover Bolts.
 10. Remove Valve Cover. Be careful; use a putty knife or razor blade to break the
seal of the silicone rubber gasket.
11. Remove cap screws, bridge and pivot assemblies, and rocker arms from
cylinder head. This will allow you access to each of the push rod.
12. Remove each push rod. You can re-use your stock push rods for this upgrade
and return them to their original locations. You will need to get a box and use it
as a stand to hold your push rods. Poke a push rod size hole the bottom of the
box. Number the holes 1 to 12 on the bottom of the box. Remove each push rod
from front (1) to back (12). And place them in the numbered hole on the box.
13. Disconnect the power steering pump bracket. Do not remove hoses. Set the
pump aside and out of the way.
14. Disconnect the EGR Vacuum pipe from the intake manifold.
15. Remover the nuts that hold the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold and
remove the pipe. You may have use WD-40 to loosen these. These simple little
nuts can be a pain sometimes.
16. Loosen the Intake and Exhaust Manifold bolts.
17. Remove all bolts that hold Intake Manifold.
18. If you are installing the MPI Kit. Check your instructions on the removal of
Intake Manifold.
19. If your are going to re-install the 258 intake and carburetor. Be careful to set
aside the intake manifold, so that you can get to the exhaust manifold.
20. Remove the exhaust manifold.
21. If you have an air conditioner, you will need to loosen the A/C and alternator
belts. Then, remove the A/C compressor and brackets and set aside. Do not
remove any A/C hoses.
22. Disconnect the spark plug wires and remove the spark plugs.
23. Remove the wire from the Temperature Sending Unit, located at the back of the
head.
24. Remove the negative battery/ground cable located at the back of the head.
25. Remove ignition coil and bracket.
26. Remove cylinder head bolts.
27. Loosen them in the same pattern as the torque sequence.
28. Remove cylinder head bolts.
29. Remove the cylinder head and gasket.

Cleaning and Inspection of Engine Block

1. Remove any and all gasket material and cement from block surfaces and water
and oil passages.
2. Remove any carbon deposits from the combustion chambers and top of the
pistons. Carburetor Cleaner works well.
3. Use a straight edge and feeler gauge to check the flatness of the block-mating
surface.

NOTE Before you install the 4.0L Head you may want to set it on the
block and finger tighten a couple of head bolts. Check for water jacket
exposure, then install intake and exhaust manifold to check alignments
and clearances.
I installed a Borla Header on my Jeep and had to fabricate a new bracket
for the automatic transmission linkage.
Also with the 4.0 YJ Borla header, those who have power steering will
have to modify the power steering pump bracket.
See http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/PSPump.htm for this
modification.
Installation of the 4.0L Cylinder Head on 258/4.2L Block
We will assume you have a 4.0L Cylinder Head prepared and ready for installation with
the following items:

1. 4.0L Cylinder Head (New or Reconditioned)

2. New 4.0L Cylinder Head Gasket
3. New 4.0L Exhaust Manifold Gasket
4. New Cylinder Head Bolts.
5. 4.0L Exhaust Manifold or Header (New or Reconditioned)
6. Loctite 592 sealant or equivalent

1. This is a tip I got out of the Jeep Engine book: Do not install the coolant
temperature sending unit until coolant is installed. This will allow you to bleed
out any trapped air from the engine.
2. Coat each of the cylinder walls with clean engine oil.
3. Place the Head Gasket on top of the engine block. Be sure that you have it on
properly with all holes lined up. The Fel-Pro gasket has the word top written on
it. Double Check, it will work backwards.
4. Install the cylinder head. Use a head bolt to properly align.
5. Insert Head Bolts and finger tighten.
6. Coat stud bolt #11 with Loctite 592 sealant or equivalent.
7. Tighten all bolts to 22 ft/lbs following sequence.
8. Tighten all bolts to 45 ft/lbs following sequence.
9. Recheck all bolts at 45 ft/lbs following sequence.
10. Tighten all bolts to 110 ft/lbs, except #11 at 100 ft/lbs.

Torque Sequence Front

1. If you are installing a Borla Header with an Automatic Transmission you may
need to fabricate a new shifter linkage bracket. Install this bracket before
installing header.
2. Reconnect the negative battery/ground cable located at the back of the head.
3. Reinstall the ignition coil and bracket. You may skip this step, if you are
installing the MPI Kit. The ignition coil is mounted on the fuel pump cover.
4. Install the spark plugs. Torque Spark Plugs to 27 ft/lbs.
5. Connect the Spark Plugs Wires.
6. Reinstall Air Conditioner Compressor brackets. If removed.
7. Install exhaust manifold gasket.
8. Install exhaust manifold/header.
9. Install intake manifold. MPI's use an additional intake port gasket.
10. Torque manifold bolt to 23 ft/lbs. Do not over tighten!
 Torque Sequence Front

Bolts 1, 10 and 11 are Studs with nuts.

1. Install alternator bracket bolt on the head and adjust belt.

2. Install the power steering bracket and pump adjust belt. If using a header you
may have to rework or fabricate a new power steering bracket.
3. Reinstall push rod in order that they were removed. Check that they are seated
properly in the lifter.
4. Install rocker arms and pivot assemblies. Finger tighten and check.
5. Torque cap screws to 19 ft/lbs.
6. Install valve cover.
7. Torque valve cover bolts to 70 in/lbs.
8. If you are installing the Mopar MPI Kit, you want to refer to their instructions for
installation of the rest of the kit.
9. Connect all coolant hoses.
10. Fill Radiator with coolant.
11. Check all Hose coolant hoses for leaks.
12. Install the Temperature sending using and connect the wire.
13. If reinstalling the Carburetor, reconnect all vacuum hoses and wires.
14. If reinstalling the Carburetor, reconnect the fuel pipe.
15. If reinstalling the Carburetor, install air cleaner.
16. Change the Engine Oil and Filter before starting your engine. This can be done
at anytime during installation.
17. Start the engine with radiator cap off and inspect for leaks. Add coolant as
required.