ISNTALLATIONS OF ELECTRICAL & LAN CABLES For work on LV electrical equipment or circuits, it is important to ensure that the correct

point of isolation is identified, an appropriate means of isolation is used and the supply cannot inadvertently be reinstated while the work is in progress. Caution notices should also be applied at the point(s) of isolation, and the conductors must be proved to be dead at the point of work before they are touched. A fundamental principle is that the point of isolation should be under the control of the person who is carrying out the work on the isolated conductors. The means of isolation can be an adjacent local isolation device such as a plug and socket, switch-disconnector, circuit breaker, fuse etc, as appropriate, which is under the direct control of the competent person carrying out the work. These devices can be used without further precautions provided there is no foreseeable risk that the supply could be reinstated by others. When there is no such local means of isolation or there is a risk of reinstatement of the supply as above, the circuit or equipment to be worked on should be securely isolated by one of the following methods. 1 Isolation using a main switch or distribution board (DB) switch-disconnector 2 Isolation of individual circuits protected by circuit breakers 3 Isolation of individual circuits 4 Isolation of individual circuits protected by fuse

Formatted: Width: 8.27", Height: 11.69"

Electrical Permits-to-Work to be obtain, putting up lotto tags Suitable & proper signage PROVING DEAD ISOLATED EQUIPMENTS OR CIRCUITS Following isolation of equipment or circuits and before starting work it should be proved that the parts to be worked on and those nearby, are dead. It should never be assumed that equipment is dead because a particular isolation device has been placed in the off position. The procedure for proving dead should be by use of a proprietary test lamp or two pole voltage detector as recommended in HSE Guidance Note GS38, Electrical test equipment for use by electricians. Noncontact voltage indicators (voltage sticks) and multi-meters should not be used. The test instrument should be proved to be working on a known live source or proprietary proving unit before and after use. All phases of the supply and the neutral should be tested and proved dead.

INSTALLATION OF 1HOUR RATED FIRE DOOR

ELEMENT 1 Interpret and comply with legal and industry requirements relating to the installation of hinged fire and smoke doors

PERFORMANCE CRITERIA 1.1 Apply knowledge and understanding of legislative and industry requirements, including relevant state/territory building codes, to fire and smoke door installations and associated work procedures 1.2 Confirm or clarify knowledge and understanding of legislative and industry requirements, including state/territory building codes, where necessary, with relevant persons using technical terminology

1.3 Identify potential & actual breaches of legislative and industry requirements relating to hinged fire and smoke doors and take action according to organizational requirements and OHS policies and procedures 2 Identify work processes and assemble 2.1 Obtain all necessary work permits prior to relevant parts for theinstallation of entering customer premises the hinged fireand smoke door 2.2 Discuss customer requirements with customer prior to proceeding to the installation 2.3 Apply relevant measurement processes to the installationsite and hinged fire and smoke door components 2.4 Identify and assemble components, tools and equipment and materials required for the installation 2.5 Identify and assemble appropriate hardwareitems and door seals required for the installation of a hinged fire and smoke door assembly 3.1 Check wall construction compliance with the required smoke resistance level or fire resistance level 3.2 Prepare, measure and mark fire and smoke door frame 3.3 Securely fix fire and smoke door frame in

3 Install door frame

4 Install door panel, doorhardware and door seals

accordance with the assignment instructions and manufacturers' installationspecifications, including any requirements for back filling in accordance with Australian Standards 4.1 Prepare door panels and necessary hardware items in accordance with assignment instructions and manufacturers'installation specifications 4.2 Prepare, measure and mark fire and smoke door forinstallation into the door frame and for the provision of doorhardware 4.3 Hang door panel correctly in position in accordance with assignment instructions and manufacturers' installationspecifications with particular attention to operational clearances 4.4 Fix door hardware items and door seals in accordance with work instructions and manufacturers' installationspecifications 4.5 Test fire and smoke door for defects and to check for smooth operation according to standard testing proceduresand in accordance with manufacturers' specifications and Australian Standards 4.6 Rectify and report on any impediments to smooth operation according to organisational requirements

5 Tag (mark) and certify fire and smoke door

6 Complete installation

5.1 Tag (mark) and label fire and smoke doors according to the provisions of the relevant Australian Standard andorganisational requirements 5.2 Complete fire and smoke door schedule of evidence of compliance (logbook) according to the relevant Australian Standard and according to organisational and customer requirements 6.1 Ensure customer premises are left in a clean and tidy condition on completion of installation functions 6.2 Complete documentation and distribute according toorganisational and customer requirements

Painting works

1. Keep all equipment clean, in good working condition and stored in its proper place. 2. Wear proper PPE when working including but not limited to the following:
a. Clothing that fully covers the skin. b. Gloves that resist specific paint ingredients. c. Eye/face protection if recommended. (Safety glasses, goggles, hoods or face shields.) d. Properly fitted respirators where required. e. Use protective skin creams when appropriate.

3. Keep area clean and access to tools and equipment uncluttered. 4. Be aware of these potential hazards:
a. Rashes, swelling, etc., from short term skin contact. b. Eye irritation; sore throat, cough, runny nose; nausea, fatigue, dizziness, flu-like symptoms from short term inhalation. c. Liver, kidney, lung, digestive system, central nervous system damage from long term or massive exposure. d. Sensitization (skin or respiratory) to any future exposure from long term or massive exposure. e. Fire - avoid using paint in an unventilated area; never expose it to an ignition source such as a spark, lit cigarette or static electricity. f. Explosion, especially if closed container is exposed to high heat. g. Reactivity from mixing with or exposure to other substances, including water.

5. If you or a fellow worker are exposed to a paint hazard:

a. Inhalation - Get to fresh air immediately. Oxygen or artificial respiration may be needed.

b. Skin contact - Wash with soap and water after removing any contaminated clothing. c. Eye contact - flush eyes with warm water for at least fifteen minutes and get medical attention at once.

6. Know where the MSDS book is kept and how to read an MSDS. Check labels of all chemicals and MSDS's for ingredients, hazard, protective procedures and PPE. 7. Use water based paints when possible. 8. Don't mix paints with other substances without approval. 9. Keep paints away from ignition sources and NEVER smoke in areas where paint is used or stored. Post NO SMOKING signs. 10. Keep paint containers closed and tightly sealed when not in use. 11. Don't use paint from a container with missing or illegible label. 12. Use ventilation and protective equipment when scraping or removing old paint to prevent lead exposure. 13. Store paint in fireproof cabinets in areas with moderate temperatures, away from ignition sources and incompatible materials. 14. Wash before eating, drinking, smoking, applying makeup or touching contact lenses. 15. Remove paint from skin according to manufacturers recommendations, NEVER use solvents or thinners. 16. Contain and clean up any spills immediately, according to MSDS and supervisor's instructions. 17. Dispose of empty paint cans and combustible rags promptly in proper receptacles. 18. Dispose of excess paint, thinners and solvents according to proper procedures. 19. Be prepared for an emergency. Fast, proper first aid is critical when someone is overexposed to a paint product. For inhalation related problems, get the person to fresh air right away. If needed

provide oxygen or artificial respiration. For rashes or other skin problems, remove contaminated clothing and wash thoroughly with soap and water. When paint comes in contact with the eyes, flush eyes with warm water for at least 15 minutes and get immediate medical care. 20. Report all accidents to your supervisor immediately.

Installation of lighting,& vent fam

Tools / Equipment Hand tools, ladders / scaffolding, clamp on meter Materials Required Fixtures, , hangers, lamps, chain PPE Hard hat, safety glasses, safety boots Sequence - Complete a site inspection and hazard assessment - Un-crate fixtures and complete a visual inspection for any damage and proper voltage - Determine type of hangers to be used for this application - Install hangers (ensure per standard) - Fasten fixture to hangers - Wire to code - Install covers and lamps - Check circuits where possible

Possible Hazards Shock, fall from ladder / scaffold Precautions Isolations Disposal Normal clean up

Installations of footing formworks There are three stages in formwork operations:

 assembly and erection concrete placement stripping and dismantling. Formwork must always be constructed according to good, safe, and sound carpentry practice. There must be adequate braces and supports reliable bearing surfaces, especially where wood structures are involved adequate ties, bolts, or bracing to prevent movement or bulging. The concrete is to manually mix & poured into the formwork and let to dry. Areas to be barricaded with proper signanges. After curing is complete, formwors are to be remove by using crowbars. It is very important to clear all the formworks from the worksite for the possibility of trip n fall hazards, pinch poins, obstructin,

Mortar Mixes
Grade Mix Properties Durable, low workability (which can be improved with the addition of lime or Applications Used in reinforced brickwork. (Must be used with Exposure Grade bricks in severe marine environments.)

M4

1:0:4

a water thickener) Used in reinforced brickwork where the reinforcing is separately protected from corrosion. Structural applications, nonreinforced brickwork, retaining walls, fences and seafront applications. Preferred for faderesistant pigmented mortar. (Must be used with Exposure Grade bricks in marine environments.) Generally used when the properties of the brick are unknown. Used for most building applications, including loadbearing walls.

M4

1:1/2:41/2

Strongest, least permeable

M3

1:1:6

General-purpose mortar

M2

1:2:9

Quite forgiving and with a good balance between strength, flexibility and permeability. Prone to fading, so not suitable for colouring with pigments Weakest of standard composition mortars. Combination of flexibility due to lime and early strength due to cement. Straight lime mortar. Low early strength.

Suitable for internal brickwork, brickwork above a damp-proof course, fireplaces and barbeques.

M1

1:3:12

Should only be used for restoration work to match existing construction, e.g. for heritage masonry. Should only be used for restoration work to match existing construction, e.g. for heritage masonry.

M1

0:1:3

1. Gather all the materials you need to start your project before beginning. When you have mixed the masonry cement and started laying brick, you have to use the mortar up and strike your joints before quitting.

2. 2

Pour a concrete foundation if you do not have an existing slab, brickledge, or footing to work on. This must be level and below the grade of the finished ground so that the brick is all you see when your wall is finished.

3
Layout the wall you are going to work on, and mark openings like doors, windows, and any architectural appertanances you are including in your design. 4 Place brick along the length of your foundation in stacks you can reach easily from your work area.

3. 5
Space "mortar boards" about every six feet along the wall, or on each side. This will allow you to grab mortar with your trowel as you work, and not have to move around too much.

4. 6
Mix your masonry cement, or mortar. This can be done in a wheelbarrow or a mortar box if don't have access to a mortar mixer or cement mixer. Basically, to mix the mortar, a ratio of three parts masonry sand (builders sand, if it is very clean), to one part masonry cement. Add water to the dry materials and mix to a consistancy like pudding. Too dry, and it will be difficult to "set" the brick in the mortar bed, too wet and the brick will sag.

5. 7
Place a few shovels of mortar on each board, splashing the board first with water so the mortar "keeps", or stays wet enough to use.

6. 8
Start at a corner, and using the trowel, scoop up mortar and place a 4 to 6 inch wide band on the footing or slab about 1 inch thick. Set a brick

down in this "bed" of mortar, and tap it down with the handle of your trowel, until it is level, parallel to the line of your wall, and the edge is plumb. Repeat with 6 or 8 brick, using the edge of the trowel to cut away the excess mortar that is shoved out from under the brick as you go.

7. 9
Set another course of brick, starting at the corner, on top of the first course. If you are turning the corner you began at, you will set each course half a brick back from the previous course, so that each course is staggered half a brick. If you are turning the corner where you began, put the first brick in the first course so that it is square, and lay a few brick in this direction also.

8. 10
Keep the height of the brick the same using a spirit or carpenter's level, and keep the end joints (head joints) equal. The standard bed and head joints are 3/8 inch, but this can be adjusted to your preference, up to 3/4 inch or even more.

9. 11
Lay up several courses on each end of the wall you are going to lay first, these are the "leads", then you can attach a piece of builder's line at the top of each brick as you lay up the remaining brick in this wall, keeping them aligned and level.

10.

12

Strike the head and bed joints with a "jointer" or "joint striker" when the mortar has begun to set. The jointer is a piece of tubing whose diameter is the same or slightly larger than your joint spacing, bent in an "S" shape. Hold the tool on one end, and rub it along the mortar joint between your brick with the curved portion of the tool to smooth out the mortar joint.

11.

13

Brush the face of the brick with a "foxtail" brush to wipe away excess mortar and finish smoothing the joint. It takes a lot of practice to be able to tell when the mortar is set properly to strike and brush the joints, but basically,

when it is hard enough to touch with your finger and not leave an impression, it is ready.

12.

14

Continue laying the brick until you are level with the leads you laid up, then begin at the ends or corners laying either in another direction, or straight up with another lead.

PRECAUTIONS

Mortar mix should be cleaned off skin if you come in contact with it. It contains lime, a caustic chemical which can cause burns with prolonged exposure. Do not breathe dust when mixing or handling dry ingredients. Wear safety glasses. Use the proper tools and techniques when cutting brick.
Area to be barricade with in 2m of the wall whereas sufficient bracing to be install to avoid wall from collapsing.

OXY CUTTING OF STEEL PLATES

1. Understand what the oxygen/acetylene torch actually does. The initial combustion of the acetylene gas heats the steel to a molten state, then, by adding a pressurized stream of oxygen, the steel is ignited and burned away through the kerf of your cut. This is why this process is called burning steel, and steel and carbon steel are the only materials it is used to cut. Aluminum, stainless steel, and other metals and alloys can not be cut with a cutting torch.

2. 2
Get the proper tools for the job. Besides the torch assembly, described in detail throughout the steps, you should have the following:

Fire extinguisher. For most uses, a compressed air and water extinguisher will work, but if oil, plastics, or other combustible materials are around, an "ABC" extinguisher is recommended. Marking and measuring tools. These will help you lay out your cut correctly, and can include a soapstone marker, a square, and a rule. Safety equipment, including a set of cutting goggles and heavy leather gloves. Proper clothing is a must. Do not wear loose fitting clothes, clothes made from flammable synthetic materials, or clothing with frayed or torn edges that may ignite more easily than tightly woven clean hemmed garments. This also means no loose pockets of cuffed pants or shirts that would allow slag to catch and burn through. Fire retardant clothing is recommended but if not available wear well fitting cotton clothes. Nylon and most other common synthetic clothes with rapidly burn if caught on fire! Sturdy leather soled work boots are recommended, since rubber soled shoes will allow hot slag to burn through pretty quickly. Laced boots are preferable, since slag can drop into the top of pull on types like engineer's boots and cowboy boots. A striker, for correctly igniting the torch. Using matches or a cigarette lighter is very dangerous, a striker is made especially for igniting torches, and reduces the risk of serious injuries.

o o

3. 3
Set up your work in a safe environment. Working on bare earth or a concrete slab is highly recommended, since sparks are going to fly many feet from the cutting location. Dry material like paper, sawdust, cardboard, and dried plant foliage or grass can be ignited from 15 feet or further. Do not allow the flame to contact concrete especially fresh concrete as it will spall and send small bits of concrete flying.

4. 4
Place the stock you are going to cut on supports at a comfortable working height. A steel table is ideal, since you can brace yourself to steady the torch while heating and burning it. Never use a surface that is flammable or has flammable materials spilled on it. Also, beware of material that has metallic oxide coatings, such as lead paint, chromate primers, and zinc plating, since inhaling the fumes from these can have a toxic effect on the torch operator.

5. 5
Mark your cuts with a soapstone marker, allowing for grinding if a precise fit is required. You may use a permanent marker if a soapstone is not available, but the mark will tend to disappear just ahead of the torch flame. For very precise cuts, you may find a specialized jig will give better results, but that is not within the scope of this article.

6. 6
.

Hook up the gauges to the appropriate tanks. Typically oxygen tanks and hoses are green, and acetylene hoses are red, and they are pair together with the ends separated to attach to their respective tanks. The acetylene hose will have reversed threads, and the fitting will be a male type, to prevent accidental switching of these two hoses/gauges. Tighten them with the correct size wrench, since the fittings are made of brass, and can easily be damaged.

7. 7
Make sure the acetylene regulator is turned off by backing the Tee handle out a few turns, then turn the gas valve on top of the tank on. Turning it "one turn of the wrist". This is for safety reasons. Follow the following points to make sure the gas is regulated to the correct pressure. Never allow acetylene gas pressure to exceed 15 PSI, at higher pressures, acetylene becomes unstable, and may ignite spontaneously or explode.

After turning on the main acetylene tank valve, open the regulator valve by turning the tee handle clockwise. This should be done very slowly, while watching the low pressure gauge. Open only until the pressure indicated is between 5 and 8 PSI. Open the gas valve on the cutting torch handle until you hear gas escaping to vent the atmosphere from the acetylene hose, then observe the low pressure gauge to see if the pressure remains steady during flow, to assure you have this regulator set correctly. Close the acetylene valve on the torch, and continue to the next step, to attach and adjust the oxygen regulator.

8. 8
Turn the oxygen regulator pressure off or down by backing the regulator gauge up a few turns, then proceed with the following steps to adjust the oxygen pressure.

o o

Open the main oxygen tank valve all the way. The valve is a double seated valve and if not opened all the way the oxygen will leak out around the valve stem o-ring because of the high cylinder pressure or 2200 psi. Open the regulator valve slowly, watching the low pressure gauge as you do so, until the pressure reads between 25 and 40 PSI. Open the oxygen valve on the torch to allow the atmosphere to vent out of the hose. Note that there are two valves on the oxygen side of the cutting torch assembly. The valve near the hose connections will control the flow of oxygen to the mixing chamber for the combustion, or heating operation of the torch as well as the oxygen jet side, so no oxygen should vent from the torch tip until either the cutting lever is depressed or the valve further up the torch is opened. To begin with, open this first valve several turns, to insure sufficient oxygen is available for both functions. Next, open the forward valve slightly until the hose is purged, about 3 to 5 seconds for a 25 foot hose. Close the forward valve.

9. 9
Put your gloves and goggles on before lighting the torch. Check your work area one more time for combustible materials, and you should be ready to go.

10.

10

Prepare to light the torch. Open the acetylene valve again, allowing the oxygen remaining in the mixing chamber to purge for a few seconds, then shut the valve until you can barely here gas escaping. Holding the striker in front of the torch tip, with the tip facing inside the striker (or toward the ignition source, for electronic strikers), squeeze the handle. A small yellow flame should appear at the tip when the sparks from the striker ignite the acetylene.

11.

11

Adjust the acetylene valve until you have a yellow flame about 10 inches long. Make sure the flame begins at the torch tip, if too much acetylene is supplied the flame will jump, or be blown away from the tip.

12.

12

Turn the forward oxygen valve on slowly. The flame color will turn from yellow to light blue as sufficient oxygen is supplied to complete combust the acetylene. Increase the oxygen until the inner blue flame begins to shrink back toward the tip. This flame doesn't appear in the photos provided since the camera's discretion on this bright light source failed to distinguish it from the outer flame.

13.
.

13

Open the oxygen valve more to increase the flame size until the inner flame is about the length of the thickness of the steel you are intending to cut. For 3/8 inch cold-rolled plate, or mild, steel, a 1/2 inch inner flame is about right. If you here a blowing noise, or the blue flame seems erratic and feathery, there is probably too much oxygen at the flame, reduce it until the flame is stable, and the inner flame is a clean, cone shape.

14.

14

Bring the tip of the inner flame to the surface of the steel you are going to cut. You will need to heat the steel with this flame until a molten pool of metal forms and luminesces at this location. For 1/4 inch plate steel at room temperature, this should take about 45 seconds, it will take longer for heavier material, or material at low temperatures. Keep the tip of the flame steady, and about 3/8 of an inch from the metal's surface to concentrate the heat in one location.

15.

15

Push the cutting valve handle down slowly to release the oxygen jet which ignites the molten steel. If a violent reaction instantly starts, the steel has ignited, and you can gradually increase pressure until the jet is cutting completely through the metal. If no reaction occurs, the metal is not hot enough to ignite, so you can let the oxygen handle release and allow the flame to heat the metal more.

16.

16

Begin moving the torch tip slowly along the line of your cut when the jet is cutting through the steel. You should observe that almost all of the sparks and molten slag are being blown out the back or bottom of your cut. If this flow of superheated material slows or backs up, slow your forward speed or stop and let the metal heat more. It is better to cut too slowly than to try to cut to fast.

17.

17

Continue cutting until you have parted the metal, or finished the cut. Make sure the slag and any drops of heated metal do not get underfoot. Even sturdy boot soles will burn through if you find yourself standing on a large piece.

18.

18

Cool the workpiece with plenty of water, or allow to cool if you are in no hurry. Be aware that dipping a superheated piece of steel into a bucket or stream of cold water will create and instantaneous cloud of very hot steam.

This is only for mild steel as this will affect quench and temper type steels if cooled in water.

19.

19

Chip the slag from the cut, or grind the cut smooth if a more precise fit is desired.