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Selamat Datang di Indonesia

Having visited Indonesia's premier tourist island, Bali, a few years ago, bikini's, sarongs, frozen cocktails, and dollar massages on the beach were all I knew of this mighty archipelago. That was, until I arrived in Jakarta. Conservatism and tradition greeted me at the gate. "Prayer Room" postings more plentiful then, "Baggage" and "Toilet", signs, afternoon prayers replaced redundant security warnings on the overhead intercom, and in the customs line, dozens of devout Muslims murmured quiet prayers to themselves while awaiting entry. No wonder Indonesia claims the largest Muslim following on the planet - accounting for more then 88% of its population, some 235 million people. Another 'wake up call' to the predominant Muslim population, occurred every morning. Rising up through Jakarta's polluted air and reaching the 29th floor of my high-rise accommodation, the 5 a.m. prayer calls were impossible to tune out. Blared over loud speakers by the nearby mosques, song-like prayers reached out to every corner of Jakarta, reminding Muslims to awake and pray. More tolerant then their Middle East contingents, Muslim women in Indonesia have the choice to wear the jilbab (scarf covering the head and neck) and in big cities, like Jakarta, women can even wear revealing clothing, if they so choose. This freedom of attire, however, is only employed by a minority. Still over half of Jakartan women choose to wear the jilbab and almost all wear conservative clothing. Hmmm...guess I should have left the tanks and skirts at home. Religion was not the only big surprise awaiting me in Jakarta. The other was truly ground breaking. My first earthquake! An overhead light fixture swaying to and fro initiated the 'shaky' suspicions but it wasn't until loose objects in the room began rattling, that the activity was confirmed seismic. To my Jakarta hosts, the quake was nothing more then a slap on the wrist. No need for evacuation or alarm. After all, it was only a 5point something. "Only?" Still 5 points closer to anything this rookie quaker had ever experienced. Id like to see them in a tornado. Surely they would be just as wide-eyed and petrified as I was.

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Besides the Muslim traditions and occasional ground tremor, a final Indonesian surprise was tourism (or lack there of). It's always been my understanding that tourists take pictures of local attractions, not the other way around. But here in Jakarta, the few cultural sights I did visit, instead dubbed me the tourist attraction. Repeatedly cornered by Indonesias amateur paparazzi, I was cast into the limelight. Posing with families, grandmothers and even holding the occasional baby.

Another tourist attraction, Simon - a pale skinned, curly haired Irish men - and I, decided to capitalize on the unexpected attention. Step right up folks. Get your very own, Photo with a Bule! ('Bule' meaning, white tourist) 2,000 Rupiah (.20cents) per shot. People not only found our marketing technique comical, they considered it that much more of a photo-worthy spectacle, doubling our fan base in seconds. 1 hour later we emerged from the hive vowing to never make a joke around these people again. About the only aspect of Jakarta that didn't surprise me, was the city structure itself. A massive, modern-age city, with a life pulse all its own. Accommodating everyone from the poor street vendor selling chicken satay for 5,000 Rupiah (.50 USD) to the BMW driving business contracting real estate deals for 500 million Rupiah. Dominated by skyscrapers, gigantic five-story malls, and posh night clubs, Central Jakarta is comparable to any other big Western city. Well, with the exception of anti-terrorism baggage checks at almost every public entry point, non-existent traffic laws and extremely limited alcoholic drink choices. You see here a night out will often begin with a pre-drink of fruit juice and end with a night cap of green tea. Did I mention most Muslims do not drink. These are just a few of my initial observations and perceptions of Jakarta. If you would like to read more about my time in Jakarta, please click on the following blog entitled: "Couch Surfing in the City".

For more of "Reggie's Backpacking Chronicles" please visit her website: http://www.backpackerswanted.com

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