MAURITANIA

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Mauritania 2004
Destination: Nouadhibou, Mauritania Date: 19th August to 30th September Expedition Members: Berny Sbe* (Expedition Leader: Keble, 2003), Paul Holland (St. Catherines, 2003), Daniel Richelet. *Contact: berny.sebe@keble.oxon.org In August 19th 2004, the Oxford University Expedition to Mauritania embarked on an expedition to create a visual history and oral record of the worlds largest ships graveyard. The team aimed to document and record this unique human phenomenon before time and politics reduce it to a memory. The wrecks constitute a hazard to shipping in the shallow channels of Nouadhibou harbour, and represent an ecological threat, which is why the European Union has allocated a sum of $2 million to fund a clearance project. The expedition photographed 104 wrecks above water, and identified two-thirds of them. In addition to photographs, we created a silhouette of each ship, in order to standardize the images, and sketched some of them when necessary. To compile the oral history of the ships graveyard, the expedition relied on semi-structured interviews and surveys. We conducted the interviews with influential members of Nouadhibous fishing and shipping communities. Through our conversations with these key informants, we determined that the graveyard is relatively young. Most of these shipwrecks are less than 20 years old and nearly all of the wrecks are fishing vessels (apart from a few units seemingly disposed of by the Mauritanian Navy). The survey portion of the oral history was conducted with the individuals who live on the wrecks. These guards are

hired by the ship owners to protect the valuable equipment still installed on the wrecks. These individuals presented unique opinions regarding the current and future status of the graveyard. Despite undertaking a socially sensitive topic, the expedition achieved its goals. Geographic location The ships graveyard is located in and around the port city of Nouadhibou in the northeast corner of Mauritania (Fig. 1). Nouadhibou, the capital city of the wilaya (province) of Dakhlet Nouadhibou, is situated 20 55 52 N / 17 02 09 E. The city is built on the eastern side of the Cap Blanc peninsula, protected from the swell and the strong waves of the Atlantic by the capes southern tip. Nouadhibous population has grown swiftly (5,000 inhabitants in 1960, 21,900 in 1977,
Figure 1. Location of Nouadhibou.

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17 105,315 in 2000) as a consequence of the export of iron ore and the development of the fishing industry. The majority of the shipwrecks are found along the southern shore, also known as the Bay of Cansado. The remaining wrecks are located to the northeast of the city (Baie du Repos) and extend one mile along the shore. The Expeditions base, which was located at the team member.

PROJECT REPORTS

Institut Mauritanien de Recherches Ocanographiques et des Pches

(IMROP), overlooked the reaches of the Bay of Cansado. southern

Background Berny Sbe and Martin Buckley initiated the Oxford University Expedition to Mauritania. Berny has travelled extensively throughout the Sahara Desert accompanying his parents on their photographic expeditions. Martin travelled to Nouadhibou in 1999 and viewed the graveyard at that time. Together, they recognized the political and environmental implications of the graveyard. Further research determined that several European companies were considering the feasibility of dragging the wrecks together to create an artificial reef or removing them entirely. The European Union had offered the Mauritanian government the funds for this project as part of a global package in exchange for fishing rights in Mauritanian waters. Therefore, the goal of the expedition was to document the shipwrecks before they disappeared. As it seemed urgent to undertake this survey, an expedition project was swiftly designed for submission to the OU Expeditions Council in November 2003. To complete the expedition team, Martin and Berny recruited Paul Holland as the third team member. However, before departure Martin decided to withdraw from the expedition for personal reasons and Berny recruited Daniel Richelet, a lifelong friend of his parents, to replace him. Daniels long-standing interest in both Saharan and maritime questions, as well as his knowledge in design, made him an ideal

Field work and research methodology The expedition followed the Participatory Rural Appraisal (PRA) methodology described in the Royal Geographical Societys Expedition Advisory Centres publication, People Oriented Research1. PRA is a holistic and flexible approach designed to achieve a more complete understanding of a community. The approach emphasizes involvement with the community, replacing the rigid research methods of the questionnaire and survey. The methodology allowed the research team to focus on the knowledge of the local community and analyse the specific topic of the ships graveyard. The expedition applied the PRA methodology and attempted to eliminate the disadvantages listed above. The team members were quickly integrated into the local research community, especially as they were accommodated near the Bay of Cansado, in the academic environment of the IMROP: the researchers flat overlooked the southernmost part of the ships graveyard. Another advantage of our expedition team was the diverse backgrounds of each of the individuals involved. With specialists in product and graphic design, modern history and geography, each team member brought his unique perspective to the research. To achieve accuracy in our findings, we depended on each team members unique academic perspective to crosscheck the results of our oral and literary research. We conducted a series of semistructured interviews with key informants in Nouadhibous fishing community. These informants included the directors of the fishing industry, consultants to the Mauritanian government, and academics studying the fishing industry in Mauritania. The second aspect of our oral research required the use of a survey. The survey was conducted with members of the communities that interact with the shipwrecks on a daily basis. These individuals include fishermen and guards

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MAURITANIA living on and around the boats. In addition to the oral record of the ships graveyard, the expedition compiled a visual database of the shipwrecks. To compile this record, Berny Sbe extensively photographed the graveyard in a variety of light. In addition to these photographs, we created silhouettes of each wreck, recording each wreck exactly as it looks above the waterline at low tide (Fig. 2). Our interviewees conducted the final aspect of our visual record. We asked these individuals to record their perspective of the shipwrecks through disposable cameras. The photographic results of this study allowed us to document their personal perspective of the shipwrecks. This expedition was limited by a number of factors, including weather conditions and the sensitive nature of our subject. The expedition encountered wind and haze, two weather obstacles that sometimes hindered our ability to photograph the wrecks. The haze resulted in poor light quality and limited visibility, which restrained our ability to put the wrecks in their wider context (especially Nouadhibou city in the background). The wind led to rough seas, forcing the expedition to shoot most of the photographs from land. The sensitive nature of our subjects led to a reluctance in some of our subjects to discuss freely the origins and future of the graveyard. Results and implications Since the Baie du Lvrier is one of the few protected inlets on the west coast of Africa, the port of Nouadhibou has long had to deal with the threat of shipwrecks. The port itself began to work as a harbour thanks to a shipwreck. According to Philippe Tous2, during the 1920s, a French Navy cruiser, the Chasseloup-Laubat, served as floating landing stage. While this is the first identifiable wreck, during the next half century the number of wrecks in the harbour steadily increased. This evolution led the team to consider that a historical analysis of the phenomenon was compulsory, as it was the only means of
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Figure 2. The ships graveyard of Nouadhibou presents a wide variety of wrecks. The silhouettes represented below feature some of the most characteristic units.

The numbers refer to our own numbering system, which starts from the southernmost wreck of Cansado Bay and ranks each boat according to its geographical situation No. 104 being northernmost. Top: Lateral trawler, No. 10, MAZAGAN, L 36m. Middle: Mauritanian Navy Unit, No. 29, EL VAIZ, registration No. P 362, patrol boat made in Spain by the shipyard Bazn from La Carraca, 139t, L 36,20m, l 5,80m. Originally fitted with a 40 mm anti-aircraft machine gun on the front gun turret and a radar Rayton 1620. Bottom right: Middle-size stern trawler, No. 20, ALMAP IX, L 28m. Bottom left: Small stern trawler: No. 94, MABROUKA, registration No. 5T336, L 15,50m

putting the ships graveyard in relation with the wider context of the development of Nouadhibou, Mauritanias economic capital. Our research revealed that the scale of the graveyard changed dramatically in 1984. As a consequence of the nationalization of Mauritanias fishing industry, inexperienced individuals or small fishing companies purchased fishing vessels. However, these entrepreneurs failed to understand the mechanics and economics of these ships. Some failed to yield a profit, while others were in poor condition. As a result of these poor investments the companies allowed their investments to fall into decay. The vast majority of these shipwrecks are between 25 and 50 year old. Before being purchased by the Mauritanian

19 industry, many of these wrecks were under Spanish flags. The graveyard is an inevitable result of the shipbuilding industry. Many of these ships were built for the industry in first world countries. After ten years of service, they were sold to fishing companies in developing nations. These companies then sold them to fledgling fishing ventures, like the Mauritanian fishing industry. The historical approach shows the economic realities that led to the expansion of the ships graveyard. During our discussions with local fishermen and shipowners, it was confirmed that the shipwrecks represent a hazard to the port. Harbour authorities and executives in maritime industry expect a clear improvement following the removal of the wrecks. Although no timetable has been set for this clearance, the members of the maritime community expect it to improve navigation and have a profound impact on the ability of cargo ship to dock. The sociological aspect of our research revealed an interesting discrepancy between Nouadhibous inhabitants and the individuals who live on the ships. The residents of the city pay little heed to the wrecks. We observed children swimming and playing around them. However, the guards generally believe that they should be removed. A number of them stated that the wrecks were an eyesore and should be removed. We also had a series of interviews with top officials of Nouadhibou harbour authorities and other local fishing associations. It appeared from our conversations that a definitive report was being compiled in order to prepare the official application to tender regarding the clearance programme, due to start at the beginning of 2005. Although our interviewees declined to show us the draft of the report, they mentioned that floating wrecks would be towed away by a tugboat, while sunken vessels, lying on the shallows would be removed using grapnels and tow ropes. The wrecks are to be disposed of in the middle of the Baie du Lvrier, where the sea is deep enough to avoid any

PROJECT REPORTS Japanese, Chinese, Russian, and collision with regular boats, and where trawling is forbidden. It is hoped that the skeletons will create a new habitat that will aid fish reproduction. The photographic record allowed us to document the state of most of the wrecks or abandoned boats. Most of the unguarded units had been literally plundered, while guarded boats retained some material (radars and radios) on board, and their portholes were still intact. Although we were unable to quantitatively study the environmental impact of these shipwrecks, it is clear that they are polluting the bay. The engines and machinery leak oil into the water, creating slicks in areas that are sheltered from the wind and water flow. However, these wrecks are not the only environmental threat to the waters near Nouadhibou. Bacterial pollution due to poor treatment of sewage seems a more pressing issue. Achievements The 104 emerged wrecks of Nouadhibou have been inventoried, photographed and sketched. Positions have been recorded on a large-scale map (1:5,000). A typology has been established, distinguishing between stern and lateral trawlers, former military units from the Mauritanian Navy, and other types of boat. 22 submerged wrecks could not be investigated for safety reasons. The visual record of the graveyard that we compiled represents the first visual record of the worlds largest ships graveyard. An overall history of the graveyard from its origins has been established. Its accuracy could be improved in the future with further research at the archives of the Ministre de la Pche, in Nouakchott, should other researchers be interested in the subject. The report will deliver the first outline in English of the history of Nouadhibou, created from scratch in 1909. To compile this history, we

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MAURITANIA gained access to previously unpublished archives (private archives of the SIGP). A sociological study of the wrecks guards has been successfully undertaken: profile, wages, other activities, and their perception of the graveyard have been recorded. The report will include the first sociological study of the Nouadhibou ships guards ever made. The final expedition report will be a valuable source of information for future researchers interested in Nouadhibous relationship with the sea and its fishing industry. A research link between the Oxford University Expedition Club and IMROP was established. This connection should facilitate future research. Our sponsors and supporters We would like to thank all the people who assisted the expedition. Without their support, this valuable research would have been impossible: Oxford University Expedition Council; The Trapnell Fund for Environmental Field Research in Africa; The Royal Geographic Society (with IBG) for its approval; Dr. Richard Washington; Professor Raoul Caruba; Mr Bertrand Sciboz, Director of CERES; Mr. Mohammed Vall; Mr. Diop Mika Samba and the rest of the IMROP team in Nouadhibou; Mr. Hamada Bakar, Director of the Centre Culturel Maaouya; our friends and families. Detailed logistics The Oxford University Expedition to Mauritania departed the United Kingdom in early August. The team had initially considered flying to Nouadhibou via Nouakchott, and renting a car locally in order to be self-reliant (although a cheap option, using taxis, was never considered a viable option as it was time-consuming and would have significantly reduced the teams efficiency). However, Berny Sbes parents provided a cheaper alternative: they kindly offered to lend to the expedition their
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20 Toyota Land Cruiser Amazon station wagon, specially fitted for desert expeditions. Driving it down to and back from Nouadhibou cost roughly the price of two airplane tickets Marseilles-Nouadhibou (far cheaper than from London), but it saved a considerable amount of money in car rental and accommodation, and gave the expedition a level of autonomy it could not have obtained otherwise. The expedition was thus able to safely bring the necessary photographic material (two Hasselblad medium-format cameras and five lenses, two Minolta 24 x 36 mm cameras and four lenses, a Canon Powershot G5 digital camera, one tripod), two laptops, two GPS receivers and a compass, relevant literature on Mauritania, lifejackets, spotlights, and many other pieces of equipment that helped the team carry out the survey as efficiently as possible. We also brought a significant amount of food from Spain, in order not to impinge on the local community resources. Any future expedition that could have access to a reliable and sufficiently equipped 4WD, and would comprise at least one experienced desert-driver, should seriously consider the option we adopted, as it is obviously more convenient, time-saving and likely to be cheaper. The car being in England when the expedition was due to depart, Berny Sbe drove it down to the South of France. A brief stopover was made in Vidauban, Provence, where the car was outfitted with an extra fuel tank, water containers and storage equipment. Additionally, the cars engine was checked and proper maintenance was conducted. The photography and electronic equipment were securely loaded into the vehicle. Paul Holland joined Berny Sbe and the expedition departed for Mauritania. After a brief stop in Spain to secure food and water supplies, the expedition drove to Algeciras and crossed the Straits of Gibraltar. The drive from northern Morocco, through Western Sahara to the border of Mauritania lasted four days. The total distance between Oxford and Nouadhibou is 5,200 km.

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A wrecked ship on the coast of Mauritania.

PROJECT REPORTS

Interuniversitaures avec la Mauritanie, very

kindly supported our endeavour and facilitated us various contacts in Mauritania. Appropriate authorisations from the Banc dArguin National Park were obtained shortly after our arrival. The logistical and institutional support provided by the IMROP proved instrumental. Any future expedition to Mauritania should seek the partnership of local institutions, as we did, for the mutual benefit of both the local academic community and the Expedition. A good command of the French language is also highly advisable in order to communicate more easily and to gain access to scholarly sources, most of which are only available in French.

During the drive, the expedition encountered police checkpoints. These stations were located in Western Sahara, which is currently administered by the Moroccan government. In order to save time, the expedition prepared information sheets for each participant and handed these to officers at the checkpoints. These sheets included the vital information found on the passports. By preparing these sheets, the expedition saved a substantial amount of time. Future expeditions following this route are strongly encouraged to prepare these information sheets before departure. Daniel arrived in Nouadhibou by air. He flew from Marseille to Nouadhibou, via Algiers and Nouakchott and arrived in Mauritania a few days after Berny and Paul. Before departure, Berny Sbe had been authorised to photograph in the area of Dakhlet Nouadhibou by the Mauritanian Ministry for Communication and Relations with the Parliament. Prof. Caruba (University of Nice-Sophia Antipolis), Chairman of the Institut des Relations

References
1. Kapila, S. and Lyon, F. (1994, 2000) Expedition Field Techniques: People Oriented Research Royal Geographical Society, London. 2. Technical Counselor and Fishing Engineer with IMROP Mmoire sur la Cration dune Station de Pche Port-Etienne (Paris, 1931). Bureau ETASCO, Stratgie de Dveloppement de

la Ville, Phase du Diagnostic, Commune de Nouadhibou (Nouakchott, June 2000). A. Gruvel, Les Pcheries dAfrique Occidentale
(Paris, 1910). A. Gruvel, LIndustrie des Pches sur la Cte Occidentale dAfrique (Paris, 1910). H.O.B. Ould Hamady, J. Y. Weigel, La pche en Mauritanie : une reconqute difficile, Afrique Contemporaine (No. 187, July-Sept. 1998), pp. 77-97. P. Poutignat, J. Streiff-Fnart, Nouveaux territories urbains et recompositions identitaires en Mauritanie, Les Mots de la Ville Africaine, C.

Sminaire international 4-6 dcembre 1997. Rivet, Plan dUrgence Environnementale Contre les Incidents de Pollution Marine
Inejih, Ctes XXme

(Unpublished CNROP report, 1990). P. Tous, M. Diop, M.A. Dia & Cheikh A. Port-tienne et les Pcheries des Mauritaniennes dans la Premire Moiti du Sicle, Actes du Symposium International, (Senegal), 24-28 juin 2002.

Dakar

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