GRIGE DEPARTMENT

RESPONSIBILITIES OF GREIGE DEPARTMENT

Greige fabric purchase of required quality and quality and negotiation with supplier on best rates. Quality inspection of purchased fabric and prepare a summary report. Prepare a stock report accessible to all the departments of the mill. Stock maintenance if arrived and issued fabric for treatment.

PROCESS DESCRIPTION: Inspection of greige fabric against 4 points system in order to check and mend weaving faults.

FOUR POINTS INSPECTION SYSTEM: PENALITY POINT EVALUATION:Defects in both the warp and the weft direction will be assigned pointsusing in the following criteria

1 Points 2 Points 3 Points 4 Points

Defects Defects Defects Defects

to > > >

3inch 3inch 3inch 9inch 6 inch 9 inch

Penality points =

Total points*100*36/ Total length checked*Greige width

The maximum acceptance of the points per 100 meter fabric is 15 points; fabric getting more than 15 points is rejected and returned back to supplier.

PENALITY POINTS GRADING: The following fabric penalty points grading standard are to be used during inspection. No more than 4 penalty points may be assigned for any single defect. No more than 4 penalty points may ne assigned to one linear meter, regardless of the number of defects with in that one meter . Continuous defects shall be assigned 4 points for each meter in which it occurs. Any roll having a running defects through more than three continuous meter shall be rejected regardless of points count. Any roll with a full width defect over six inches in length shall be rejected. Any roll that contains more than four full width defects per one hundred linear meters shall be rejected. No roll shall be accepted that contains a full width defect in the first or last three meters. Fabric width will be checked a minimum of three times during the inspection of a roll (beginning, middle and end of the roll). Roll having a measurement of less than the specific required width shall be graded at 2nd quality. A maximum tolerance of +3% will be allowed for rolls having a measurements greater than the specific required width. A hole of torn is considered to be a major defect and shall be penalized 4 points.

 Following defects will be penalized penalty as per rules. Kinks, knots , slub , contamination, spot, half double pick, cockled yarn, coarse pick, heavy weft bar below 6 inch in length, set mark, rapping, broken pick, pick out mark, holes & float up to inch, creases, streak mark, color stain etc. Following defects are cut table and will rejected. Freaquent kinks, knots, slubs, contamination, spots etc. More than three meters a continuous defect such as dye creases , streak marks, side center side shading, roll to toll shading, narrow or irregular width, abrasion mark uneven dye & finish, reed mark, double end, broken end , wrong draw etc. No roll shall be accepted as first quality that exhibits a noticeable degree of looseness or tightness or ripples, puckers folds or creases in the body of the fabric. SPLICE/JOINT: Maximum one join per 100 meter roll shall be allowed, joints should not be stitched together. Four penalty points will be assigned for each splice/joint. SHADE MATCHING: Four inches full width start end cuttings will be taken from each roll; meter age, linear points roll no. and inspectors name will be written on these start end cutting of each roll. These cutting will be checks and shade wised against approved standard in the D-65 light in the light box. Maximum three shades (A,B,C) will be packed in any color. If shade of the bulk production deviate from the approved standard or shade variation within bulk production is more than 4/5 on grey scale, the shade will be rejected.

FABRIC FAULTS: WEAVING FAULTS: Double ends Short ends Broken ends Loose ends Loose selvage Double picks Miss pick Knots Hanging threads

MECHANICAL FAULTS: Starting marks Rapping marks Mending marks Reed marks Oil stains

YARN FAULTS: Cockled yarn Weft yarn Slubby weft TYPES OF FABRICS

Following types of fabrics is used in Nishat Dyeing & Finishing Unit: 100% cotton Polyester cotton Lycra cotton (usually 98% cotton and 2%lycra/polyester) Polyester cotton lycra (PC Lycra) , 100% Polyester

BLEACHING DEPARTMENT

RESPONSIBILTIES OF BLEACHING DEPARTMENT:

Inspection and unrolling of the fabric. Stitching of the fabric pieces. Use the specific recipes and methods for specific type of fabric.

PURPOSE OF BLEACHING:
The purpose of bleaching is as follow: 1. Surface smoothness (Control The Pilling) 2. Impurities remove 3. Whiteness (Natural Color Remove) 4. Absorbency 5. Luster/Shine 6. Shrinkage Control 7. Strength Improve

IN BLEACHING Dept. DIFFERENT M/C USE:

Unrolled M/C Singing /Desizing M/C Bleaching (L.Box) Mercerizing M/C Emerizing M/C Curing M/C Raising/ Sharing M/C

UNROLLED M/C:
First of all the fabric is in roll form so we unrolled it and stitch over lock M/C.

SINGE/ DESIZING M/C:

If a fabric is to have a smooth finish, singeing is one of the first essential preparatory processes. Practically all cotton fabrics except those that are to be napped are singed. Spun rayon fabrics are also frequently signed. But wool and silk fiber ends would cling to themselves and man made fiber ends would melt resulting in balls on the surface of the fabrics. Singeing burns off lint and threads as well as all fluf and fiber ends, leaving an even surface before the fabric passes through other finishing processes. As the grey goods pass through the open gas flames of two infrared platens at over 100 yards (90m) per minute, hair, fuzz, and lint are singed simultaneously from both faces of the fabric. Singeing produces a smooth fabric surface prerequisite to flawless dyeing and eliminates the problem of pilling in the spun rayon fabric. In weaving we use the chemical was starch on the ends fiber so in desizing we desize for that chemical and fabric goes to rotation. Its about 8 to 10 hrs required in the rotation.

BLEACHING:
If cloth is be finished white, all natural color must be removed by bleaching All bleaching processes reduce the strength of the fiber. If durability is more important than appearance, the consumer should select grey goods rather than bleached material. Bleaching is the process of removing colored impurities from the fabric. The grey fabric is generally pale in color, for reducingits paleness it is bleached with hydrogen peroxide (H2O2).

SCOURING:
Scouring is the main part of bleaching process. It is usedin removing fats and oils from the fabric. Scouring is similar to the soap washing. Different chemicals are used for this purpose. If these oil and fats remain on the fabric, they cause problems in dyeing and printing.

MERCIRIZING:
In mercerizing process fabrics are specified for : Smoothness Absorbency Shine Shrinkage control

Mercerizing is an important preparatory for cotton fabric. It is also used in the finished of linen. Mercerizing causes the fall, twisted, ribbon like cotton fiber to swell into a round shape and to contract length. Sometimes mercerizing is done in low concentration solely to improve the dye pickup.

CHEMICAL USED FOR SCOURING & MRCIRIZING:

Scouring agents, low foam scouring agents, wetting agents, low foam wetting agents, sequestering agents, mercerising agents, peroxide stabilisers, peroxide killers, neutralizers.

EMERISING(SANDING):
In order to obtain suede like or flees surface, fabric may be given a emerizing by passing them through a series of emery, covered rollers. The process produces a soft. However, it is subject to pilling.

CURING:
In curing just for dark shade in the temperature 190 to 210 and speed 2.5m.min but lycra is not for this temperature. Contamination, jute etc are burned in this temp.

RAISING/SHARING:
A fabric may be given a fuzzy or hairy surface by any one of several methods that abrades the cloth and pulls fibes ends to the surface.

DYING DEPARTMENT
RESPONSIBLITIES OF DYING DEPARTMENT: To give color to the fabric. Choosing the best fit dye stuff and dyeing methods for the specific fabric type. Providing the exact dyed color of fabric to customer. Maintaining the efficiency of machine throughout the one lot process.

THERMO SOL: Thermo sol machine is used for dying in which different process occure: Dry process, Dyeing Pad, drying, curing

TYPES OF DYEING : 1. VAT DYEING 2. REACTIVE DYEING

3. PIGMENT DYEING 4. DISPERSE DYEING VAT DYEING: Dye Class Dye Molecule Large Fix In Yarn

PROCESS ROUTE:

Pad, Dry, Develop Note : only for light shades, due to high cost

PAD STEAM: Wet Process Developing , dyeing Vat Developing Reactive chemical padding REACTIVE DYE: Dye Class React With Yarn PROCESS ROUTE: 1- Pad, Dry Cure 2- React With Yarn

DYE CLASSES: 1. VAT 2. Reactive 3. Pigment 4. Disperse 5. Sulphur 6. Indigo 7. Direct Dyes Dyes Dyes Dyes Dyes Dyes Dyes (Cotton) (Cotton) (P/C) (P) (Cotton) (Cotton) (Cotton)

PROCESS ROUTE: 1- VAT: Pad, Dry, Develope 2- Reactive: Pad, dry, cure Pad, dry, chemical pad 3- Pigment: Pad, dry, cure 4- Disperse: 210 temperature because poly. Pad, cure. 5- Sulpher: Pad steam Note: Indigo & Direct dye class is not use for here in NML.

YARN DYEING: Skein (Hank) dyeing: Package dyeing Warp beam dyeing Space dyeing Piece dyeing Union dyeing Cross dyeing Beck dyeing Jig dyeing Jig dyeing Pad dyeing Beam dyeing Jet dyeing

FINISHING DEPARTMENT
RESPONSIBILITIES OF FINISHING DEPARTMENT: Assuring optimum final fabric quality. Ensuring absolute reproducibility of fabric qualities and full control on quality checks. Offering exact finish type as per customer requirement Fulfilling the demand for scotch protection,

TYPES OF FINISHING: There are two types of finishing: 1- Mechanical Finish: Mechanical finish means giving some certain feelings to fabric using machines (mechanical methods). Like entioned below; Flat Peach Raising Calendaring 2- Chemical Finish: Chemical finish means giving extra and different look and different touch feeling to fabric by applying chemicals on it. Like mentioned below; Soft finish Extra soft finish

 Teflon finish Wrinkle finish Stiff finish Fire repellent Water repellent Sugar finish Soil release Hybrid finish

FINISHING: In the finishing department the further or more production process on the fabric is to be finish. So here control of these things: Skew and bowing control Width control Chemical application Stretching.

That in the Stenter AND in Sanforizing M/C Control wrap shrinkage.

First the fabric stitched with the leading cloth and with new fabric, leading cloth is use to keep the machine in running condition. Then fabric is dipped in the chemical trough where chemical or color is applied over it, color is only applied in the case of topping. Then fabric passed through the padders to squeeze the extra chemical or color from fabric and then fabric enters in the MAHLO section which controls the skewness and bow of fabric. Next the fabric enters in the chain section which stretches the fabric for the width adjustments and to remove creases. The chained fabric passed through the dyeing chamber with hot air and later on fabric is passed through the chamber where cooling fans and cooling drums are used to bring back the normal temperature of fabric. Next the fabric is rolled on batcher or stored on trolley. Now the fabric enters in the second machine where first ir passes through steamer then water shower to make it wet, so that its warp shrinkage did not be controlled. Then fabric is dried in such a way that its shrinkage did not be disturbed. Finally fabric passes through palmer section where it is passed and makes its temperature moderate and at the end it is store on trally or on fans.

FOLDING DEPARTMENT
RESPONSIBILITIES OF FOLDING DEPARTMENT: 100% fabric inspection. Rolling and folding the fabric n paper tubes. Prevent the faulty fabric did not reach to the customer. Shade matching of each roll cuttings of one lot. Assigning the grade points to each roll on bases of color variation

FOLDING: Fabric grading through proper inspection. Fading (A,B,C) / shading. The purpose of shading is separation of the tone / categorize. All faults are identify during inspection properly. During packing all identification shipping mark, contract, quality, color, quantity, meter age, weight, and width are attached on the roll. So customer can easily identify your fabric.