DIY Arduino

DIY Arduino
http://www.theparsley.com/arduino/diy/
The Complete DIY Arduino

~ Corey Kingsbury - March 2011 www.coreykingsbury.com - my graphic design site www.oxzom.com - customize your own website www.fonebug.com - mobile social networking the right way! Featured on Instructables.com http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Arduino-or-The-DIY-Duino/
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Table of Contents
This tutorial will walk you through: Transferring the circuit pattern Etching the printed circuit board Assembly of components Some power source options Programming the board Resources Visitor comments (34) The header will be info@extendedpaws.com, which is my Paypal account. It took a lot of time and energy putting this page together... If you find this tutorial helpful, please donate to further the cause!
All contents copyright Corey Kingsbury - All rights reserved Any unauthorized reproduction of text or images without expressed written permission is strictly forbidden and may result in legal action.
Introduction
To quote the Arduino website:
"Arduino is an open-source electronics prototyping platform based on flexible, easy-to-use hardware and software. It's intended for artists, designers, hobbyists, and anyone interested in creating interactive objects or environments."
I got one a while ago and life has never been the same. Here is the official website for Arduino: http://www.arduino.cc/ There are a bunch of tutorials that show you how to build your own Arduino on a breadboard, called Hack-duinos or something similar. While these are handy, I prefer to use more solid electronic devices. So I build them with a home-made PCB and solder all the components on there myself. Some may say, "This task seems time Arduino UNO
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consuming and a tad expensive... Why not just kerplunk the 30-some-odd bucks for an REAL Arduino?" Well, some of us enjoy the craziness of making something completely from scratch -and in doing so, learning more about the device you are using. This tutorial will take you through all the steps of making your own printed circuit board(PCB), building an Arduino and loading your own programs onto the board you have built. Just as there are several ways to build your own Arduino, there are likely just as many, if not more, ways to create your own printed circuit board or PCB. This tutorial opens with an in-depth lesson on how to make your own. I've tried several methods of making PCBs, and what follows is a procedure that has worked the best for me. A little background first... People who are new to making their own PCBs often call this method "The Toner-Transfer Method". When searching for how to make your own PCBs on the Net, this is the phrase that will often come up. However, those who have been making these for a while will correctly call it the "Gootee Method" -- and the PCBs themselves are called "Gootee Boards". The reason is this -- the most in-depth documentation on how to etch your own PCB (at least that I know of) has been compiled and tested by Thomas Gootee. See his website: http://fullnet.com/~tomg /gooteepc.htm The PCB you will be making in this tutorial is founded in Gootee's teachings, with a few differences/deviations. A DIY-Duino you will learn to make
Here is a little wheeled project that I made, using a DIY-Duino, that can be controlled with my television remote.
Transferring the Pattern

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Transfer Materials
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Copper Board: 12" x 12" You can buy a smaller board, if you want. I buy the 12x12 because I use it for a lot of projects. http://www.parts-express.com /pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=055-140 Photo Paper High-quality photo paper with a glossy finish is the best to use. Clothes Iron Use one you don't mind being ruined. Chances are, it will get funky. Piece of scrap cardboard This will be your makeshift ironing board. Arduino Pattern sheet Click here to download the Pattern file Or right click (Command click for Mac) and save target as. You must use this file to ensure the proper resolution and size of the image. You don't want to print and etch your board and have it be the wrong size. Paper towels To put over your board before ironing. Plastic container To bathe your board in warm water after ironing. Common, household tape For securing the pattern to the copper board Tweezers Not necessary, but can be helpful for peeling off transfer remnants. Fine grain sandpaper To rough up the board and make it able to absorb the pattern better.
12"x12" Copper Board still in the wrapping
Preparing the Copper Board
Cut out the board Protect your eyes. Use your Dremel or a hacksaw and cut out the shape for your board. Give yourself some space around the edges. I usually give myself about a 1/4 inch extra margin mostly, because I often add in risers or spacers when I'm done at each of the corners. Spacers are good to use, because they keep your soldered bits off of the table or ground or any other surface. They protect your board from getting fried if it happens to come to rest upon a metal surface.
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Sand the board Sand the top of the copper with a fine sand paper. This gives it some more surface area for the toner to stick to. Sand the edges too, because sometimes they can be sharp, and you don't want to cut yourself. It's far easier to assemble a board when you don't have bandages on your fingers.
Preparing the Pattern
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If you have access to a laser printer or a laser copier, fantastic. If not, no problem, you'll let Staples or Kinkos or another copy place do that for you. If you HAVE access to a laser printer: Put your photo paper in the printer and be sure that the glossy side is oriented correctly. You need the image to be printed on the glossy side. If possible, set the printer to print out with the maximum quality/toner thickness available. Print the Pattern file. Try not to touch the image area or get anything else on it. Any oils, abrasions or anything else will hamper the transfer. Here is a raw pattern, not trimmed yet. If you DO NOT HAVE access to a laser printer: Print the Pattern file. Try to get the best, darkest quality printout possible. Bring the printout to your local copy store and have them make laser copies of it on high-quality photo paper. Explain to them what you are attempting to do with these copies. Occasionally, there will be someone working there that knows or has heard of what you're doing. Try not to touch the image area or get anything else on it. Any oils, abrasions or anything else will hamper the transfer. Prepare the pattern Cut one of the patterns out. On 3 sides, trim close along the edge of the pattern. On one side, leave a little tab for you to hold on to. Again, you don't want anything to touch the image.
Here is a trimmed pattern with a little tab to hold it by.
The Transfer Procedure
Transfer preparation/things to get ready. Fire up your clothes iron, put it on the hottest setting -- High/Linen. With no steam. We want this sucka HOT! It's good to start your iron heating up while you get the other stuff ready. Be careful not to burn yourself or anything else! Make sure you turn the iron off when you're done!
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Get a plastic container, large enough so the PCB can lay flat. I use a sandwich container, and fill it with hot water. This will bathe your PCB after your transfer the pattern.
Cut out a piece of scrap cardboard for your ironing board. I use pieces of cardboard box, usually just cutting off one of the flaps.
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Place your cut and sanded piece of copper board in the middle of the cardboard with the copper side facing up.
Lay your pattern face down on the copper board. Take a couple pieces of tape and secure the pattern to the copper board.
Place a paper towel over the top of the copper board. This should protect your iron from the gunk that is created when you heat up the paper -but I'm not making any promises. If you don't want to ruin your iron, don't use a good one. You can usually get one cheap at a yard sale or a new one for less than $25.
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Transferring the Image When the iron is heated up, press down FIRMLY on the top of the papertowel, pattern and copper board. Hold it in place for one minute. After a minute, remove the iron. You should be able to make out the edges of the board through the paper towel.
Use the tip of the iron to go over the board bit-by-bit. Take another minute to be sure you apply heat to each part of the board... Go up and down, side to side and left to right. Pay special attention to the edges. In my experience, the edges are where the board/image gets the least amount of heat. Finally, for one more minute, hold the iron on the board again to finish up.
Caution, the board will be very hot! Peel the paper towel off of the top. If some paper towel sticks to the top, it's ok. This will loosen and be easy to remove in the water bath.
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Time for a bath Place the board, face up in the plastic container of warm water and let it bathe for 10 minutes.
After 10 minutes, peel the pattern paper off. In my opinion, the ironing the trickiest part of the entire procedure... If you've done a good job at ironing, the entire paper will peel off and you will be looking at a shiny copper board with the black laser toner transferred onto it. However, this will not likely happen. Do not be discouraged! What will likely happen is one of two things: 1. You peel the paper back and some or all of the paper comes off, but the pattern was not totally transferred either. 2. You peel the paper back and only some of it comes off, leaving behind some paper and a thin plastic.
In case 1: You haven't completely ironed the toner and it hasn't transferred to the board. You are sadly out of luck only for the moment though. You will need to start again. Hey, at least you have the copper cut out, right? And practice makes perfect... the best way to be an expert at something is to be a complete failure at it first. The board on the left isn't totally messed up. In fact, I fixed it with a Sharpie... see below on how this works. But you can see where the toner didn't completely transfer over to the board. On the left corner, the toner is faded that's because it's still stuck to the paper. Now, the board below that one is a total mess. It's one of the first boards I ever tried to make. I'm not sure why I still have it,
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maybe just to show in this tutorial. You can see that it's kind of corroded from sitting around. The main thing to look at is that the toner didn't transfer too well. If this happens to your board, put it back into the water and let it soak overnight. You'll easily be able to peel everything off in the morning. After all the paper is removed, take some lacquer remover, dampen a paper towel with it, and wipe away all the toner. Re-sand the coppe rboard, so that it looks clean and new and start again. Don't sweat it, you'll get it, trust me!
In case 2: You're left with some paper still stuck to the board. You may notice that there is a thin plastic layer that is sticking to the copper. This is what the pattern image was originally transferred on to. You may also notice that there is some "plain" paper that comes off easily. Take your thumbs and rub off what you can of the "plain" paper. Soak the board in the warm water bath for another couple minutes. Return and try to rub off more of the "plain" paper. Eventually you'll be able to get everything off. The photo on the left has only a little of the plastic stuck to it. You can use your fingernails to peel off the plastic, because the transferred toner resists being chipped by your nails fairly well. I also find that using some tweezers to peel off the thin plastic works too. BE CAREFULL though with the tweezers, because it IS possible to chip the pattern with them. Also, you need to get ALL OF THE PAPER AND PLASTIC off of the board for the etching to work thoroughly. Often, I just remove what I can of the "plain" paper and then set the board in the bath for a couple hours. When you return, you'll find that the plastic does not stick so much to the board and you can peel it off easily. Again, you can use tweezers, but use them carefully.
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OK, so you got all of the paper and plastic removed. Double check your board. Make sure all lines connect properly. Go over any nicks with a Sharpie permanent marker. I have one of the thin-line Sharpies for fixing these little nicks. Sharpie ink resists the acid.
If everything looks good, you are now ready to etch your board.
Etching the Board

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Etching Materials
Jug of Muriatic Acid You can get this at the hardware store. Container of Laquer Remover This will remove the pattern when you are done etching the board. It is also useful if you make mistakes on transferring your pattern. You can remove the toner and try again. You can get this at the hardware store Container of Hydrogen Peroxide Any Grocery Store (3) Standard kitchen paper towels Use for the ironing, agitating the acid solution, and removing the toner with the lacquer remover (2) Plastic containers (1 for the acid mixture, one to rinse, one to bathe the PCB in hot water) Acid disposal container Size this, depending on how much you're using. See below on disposal. Pair of plastic dishwashing gloves You can often find a better, more durable pair of gloves at the hardware store -- right near the muriatic acid oddly enough. Protection Plastic gloves, breathing and eye protection. (1) 1/4 Cup Measuring Cup Use one that you don't mind being destroyed. Once you use this to measure out the Muriatic Acid, It should only be used for this purpose. NEVER use it to measure food again.
From Left: Lacquer Remover, Muriatic Acid, Hydrogen Peroxide
Plastic Protective Gloves
1/4 cup Measuring Cup
Etching Procedure
First, some precautions Muriatic Acid is very dangerous, both to breathe, and to get on any part of your body. It will also destroy most of what it comes into contact with, metal, clothing. Most important, protect your skin and eyes. I ALWAYS wear goggles and it's not even an option to not use plastic gloves. Put on your eye protection. Put on your protective gloves. Put on your breathing protection. Make sure you are not wearing clothes that you want to keep clean. Chances are they will be ruined. It is best to do the etching outside, in a garage or basement, or in a bathroom. Somewhere where if you spill a little acid, it won't hurt anything. If you can't do your etching outside, do it in a well-ventilated room, and be sure to protect Be careful not to get the muriatic acid on anything. This photo shows what happens when it gets spilled on concrete. It bubbles, burns and
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anything you don't want completely ruined from the acid. Basically the only thing that won't be ruined by the acid is plastic. The containers You will be using 3 containers. One container will hold your etching solution, the second will hold hydrogen peroxide only, and the third will be used to discard your solutions in a safe and proper manner. The hydrogen peroxide container will be used to rinse off your board after it is finished etching. Now, prepare your etching solution The mixture is 1 part Muriatic Acid to 2 parts Hydrogen Peroxide. Use the 1/4 cup measuring cup to portion out one 1/4 cup full of Muriatic Acid and two 1/4 cups full of hydrogen peroxide into one of your plastic containers.
smells pretty nasty -- not to mention looks pretty gross too.
This is the copper board after you have removed all traces of the photo paper. You should have checked it over and made sure that all of the traces are completed, and there are no chips that would make an incomplete circuit. If there are any chips or scratches, fix them with a Sharpie as described above.
Gently place the board into the etching solution.
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You will notice that the etching solution begins to change color. This is the acid reacting to the copper and starting to dissolve it.
Agitate the container gently, so that the etching solution mixes over the submerged board.
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Use a paper towel to wipe the board while it's submerged. This helps along the etching process.
After about 4 minutes, you will notice that the copper will begin to dissolve.
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Continue to wipe areas where there is still copper.
After about 5 minutes, your board should be completely etched. The etching solution will have changed to a green color after reacting with the copper.
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Remove the board and rinse it in the second container, the one that has just hydrogen peroxide. This will dilute the remaining acid. Now, it's not the best thing in the world to do, but we've diluted any solution still clinging to our board and most of the copper that has dissolved into the solution is diluted as well. So... take your board and rinse it under some water.
Here is what you should have. You will notice in this photo that there is still some copper in the top right corner. This should be ok. But if this happens on your board and you want to remove it, just gently sand it off. Be careful not to sand off anything you don't want to!
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The final step is to use lacquer remover to get the toner off. Put some lacquer remover on a paper towel and wipe off the toner. Do your best to get all of the toner off. Your board should look like the one below. Rinse this puppy off once more and get ready to drill the holes for the components.
A Note on the Disposal of Chemicals
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When you are done etching and rinsing, pour both the etching solution and the hydrogen peroxide into your disposal container, toss the paper towels in there as well and seal it up. It is good to use a larger container to discard these materials. I have cats so I use the plastic tub that their litter comes in. If you have cats too and decide to do this, rinse out the tub. The acid will react slightly to the clay remnants in the tub. To dispose of this tub, you can bring it to your local fire station, as they are equipped to dispose of dangerous chemicals. Or you can find out when your garbage company picks up hazardous waste and have them remove it. DO NOT POUR YOUR LEFTOVER SOLUTION DOWN ANY DRAIN OR ON THE GROUND OUTSIDE!
Drilling the Holes

There is not much to explain here. Only this: Up until now, you could get by without a Dremel or other rotary tool. It may have been trickier, but do-able. However, I must say, I can't imagine getting past this part with a normal drill. First, I don't think they even sell 1/32" drill bits for normal drills. Second normal drills are just too cumbersome to do this delicate work. One slip and you've ruined your precious PCB. So, do yourself a favor and score a Dremel or rotary tool. They are useful for many more things than just making PCBs!
From left: Your PCB, 1/32" drill bit, the smallest drill adapter for Dremel, chuck, and Dremel.
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Put on your eye protection and carefully drill your holes. Be careful with both the PCB and the drill bit itself. A 1/32" bit is really not much larger than a sewing needle and easy to break. It's a pain to get half way through drilling and snap a bit. Then you either have to go to the hardware store and get another, or order one online. The hardware store near me doesn't even sell individual bits, they're in a package of different sizes. So it's $10 for one bit and five that I already have like three sets of. If you order them online, you can buy them in a small canister of 4. I think I paid $5 for one canister. It's good to have extras, eventually you will break one. Anyhow, carefully drill out the holes for your components. Start by drilling through the copper side. Then turn the PCB over to the plastic side and drill through the holes you've made -- just to be sure you have it going through clean.
Hold your PCB up to the light and check that you've drilled everything. On this board, I've drilled places to add risers in the corners. It's a good idea to have these, so your board isn't sitting on the table and resting on its solder point Pat yourself on your back, you're now ready to assemble the components.
Putting it All Together

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Components & Tools
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(3) Little bits of wire DIP Sockets Solder Tail - 28-Pin 0.3" http://www.sparkfun.com/products/7942 $1.50 ATmega328 with Arduino Bootloader http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9217 $5.50
3 Little Wires, DIP Socket, ATmega 328
Basic LED - Green http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9650 $0.35 Resistor 330 Ohm 1/6th Watt PTH -- 220 Ohm will work fine too if you have one http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8377 $0.25 Resistor 10k Ohm 1/6th Watt PTH http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8374 $0.25 Mini Push Button Switch http://www.sparkfun.com/products/97 $0.35 Green LED, 220 Ohm Resistor, 10K Ohm Resistor, Mini PushButton
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(2) Electrolytic Decoupling Capacitors 10uF/25V http://www.sparkfun.com/products/523 $0.45x2=$0.90 Voltage Regulator - 5V http://www.sparkfun.com/products/107 $1.25
(2) Electrolytic Decoupling Capacitors - 10uF/25V, Voltage Regulator 5V
Crystal 16MHz http://www.sparkfun.com/products/536 $0.95 (2) Capacitor Ceramic 0.1uF http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8375 $0.25x2=$0.50
Crystal 16MHz, (2) Capacitor Ceramic 0.1uF
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(3) Break Away Female Headers These are not really break away. You'll need to cut them. http://www.sparkfun.com/products/115
Break Away Female Headers, Bottom row has been cut
(4) Standoffs I got these at Radio Shack Here's a link for some from Sparkfun
(4) Standoffs
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Solder (left) Flux (center) De-soldering braid (right)-- for errors!
Soldering Iron and a second set of hands helps out in a major way!
Assembly Procedure
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I have drawn up a little diagram of where everything is supposed to go. At the left is a simple diagram of the finished setup, complete with the pin locations. Follow the pictures below to put the board together correctly. In this tutorial, I will hope that you are decent at soldering. It is not my goal here to teach you how to solder. There are a bunch of tutorials an pointers out there on how to solder properly. Here is one of my favorite pages: http://www.ladyada.net/media/common/soldering.pdf
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Here is the naked board. It should be oriented with the copper facing away. You will be soldering the components on the plastic side only, NOT the side with the copper. Put the leads of the components through the board and solder them to the copper. The places where there are squares should be where the ground/negative lead of the component are soldered.
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Start by soldering the DIP Socket for the ATmega328. DO NOT solder in the actual chip. It is always a good idea to use these Sockets, because you can remove your chip if you want to use it in another board or project or whatever. And de-soldering them is a royal pain. Note the area where there is a little oval cut out. This is to let you know how the chip should be oriented. When you finally put your ATmega chip into the socket, you want to place it with the oval facing up. The top left of the chip is the reset. If you don't put the chip in right, nothing will work.
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Add the capacitors and the voltage regulator. Important: The capacitors have a little white bar on one side. This is to let you know where to attach it to the ground. Attach the side with the white bar to where the square pad (ground) is and the other to the power. Do this for both of the capacitors. The voltage regulator needs to be soldered with the back of the "chair"/ the tall metal part facing out. You may need to file a little of the legs off of the voltage regulator, as the leads are often squarish and flat.
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Add the little wires. You have three wires. It doesn't really matter what color they are, as I'm sure you know. Just as long as you know where they are supposed to go. For this circuit, you'll solder wires to span and attach to two grounds and one voltage.
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Add the .1uf ceramic capacitors (2 of them) and the 16nHz crystal. It does not matter how the ceramic capacitors or the crystal are oriented. The crystal is a little wider than we need for this board, so you should bend the leads so that it will fit in snugly at the bottom. You don't want any components dangling.
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Add the resistors. The resistors are 10K Ohm and 220 Ohm. The 10K Ohm resistor is banded brown, black, orange and gold and will provide resistance to the button. The 220 Ohm resistor is banded red, red, brown and gold and will provide resistance to the LED.
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Add the LED and button. The LED will light up and tell us that the board is getting power. The button will allow us to reset the board. Some buttons have 4 leads, we only need two of them, so you can snip the extras off if you have four. Be sure to insert the long leg of the LED into the power, and the short leg into the ground (the square pad).
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Add the female headers. It's not really necessary to have all these headers. Personally, I like to have a voltage and a ground for every usable pin on the chip -- especially next to the analog pins. But, I suppose as long as you have one extra voltage and one extra ground out, you are good.
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Add the power supply. And you're done. There are a couple different ways to connect to a power supply. I'll write a little about that below.
Some Ways to Get Power

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Creating a Power Supply
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Depending on your preference, you can create a bunch of different power supplies for your board. There are a bunch of wall plugs you can buy, but be careful of its output, because you risk toasting your board. You want a 9V DC 100-500mA power adapter, one with a 2.1mm barrel plug and positive tip. I don't have one, because I use mostly rechargeable 9volt and AAA batteries. Click here for more on wall plugs With this fella, you can solder the red line right into the pad for power and the black to the square pad for ground. Then plug in a 9volt battery and you're good to go.
This is a DC plug that you can solder to your board as well. This allows you to plug and unplug your power supply. Depending on what you're using your board for, this might be a good route for you to take.
This is a different version of a DC plug.
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I like to use these, because they plug in easy to the DC line in above. There are many tutorials on how to wire a DC power jack, if you don't know how to do it.
This is a AAA battery box, that will plug into the power jack.
Make it Work
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Programming With FT232RL
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If you already have an Arduino, you can follow the details on how to use it as an In-System Programmer (ISP) here: http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoISP
However, you will need to modify your board to be able to accept a line from the Arduino's Reset to your boards Reset.
Personally, I like to use the FT232RL USB to Serial. I think it's easier and it's just become habit for me. FT232RL USB to Serial http://www.sparkfun.com/products/718 $14.95 I can't remember if mine came with the male headers, so you might want to get some of those too. You will need: The board you created above Breakout Board for FT232RL USB to Serial A breadboard 4 short wires 4 longer wires An LED-- to test if your upload was a success
The far left photo is a picture of the top of the FT232 and directly left is the bottom. You will need to solder male headers to the board. Be sure to remove any battery or power source from your board before you connect the FT232.
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Set up your FT232 on a breadboard like this. The wire on the top left is TXD and will go to pin 0 (RX) on your board. The wire on the bottom left is RXD and will go to 1 (TX) on your board. The wire on the top right is ground and will be attached to a ground line on your board. The wire on the bottom right is VCC and will be attached to a power line on your board.
Here is basically how the connection looks.
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Here is a close up of how the wires are plugged into your board. The red wire is VCC -- power. The Black wire is ground. The yellow wire is TXD and is connected to pin 0 on your board. The orange wire is RXD and is connected to pin 1 on your board.
Open the Arduino Software. If you do not have the Arduino software, download it here http://arduino.cc/en/Main /Software and follow the instructions for setup. Go to File >> Examples >> Basics >> and open the Blink sketch... Or any other sketch of yours. If you are going to use the Blink Example, plug a LED into pin 13 on your board. The long leg goes to pin13 and the short one goes to ground.
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You need to be sure you are set to the right chip. Otherwise you will get an error when trying to upload your sketch. Go to Tools >> Board >> and click on the chip you have in your board. In this case, we have the ATmega328.
Click the upload button (in yellow in the photo). The program will tell you that its Uploading to I/) Board. Wait for it to say: "Binary sketch size: 1018 bytes (of a 30720 byte maximum)"
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When the software says "Binary sketch size: 1018 bytes (of a 30720 byte maximum)"press the reset button on your board. You only have a couple seconds to do this, otherwise your upload will fail and you will get an error. When the program is sending the sketch over, the RX and TX lights on the FT232 will go all blinkey for a couple seconds. When they stop blinking, you will get a "Done Uploading" message and the LED will begin flashing.
Success! You have successfully created your own PCB, assembled your own DIY-Duino, and programmed the board. Awesome!
Some Good Resources:

The Official Arduino Page http://www.arduino.cc/ Sparkfun Good place to get supplies and learn http://www.sparkfun.com/ Instructables A great website to learn and share your ideas and inventions. http://www.instructables.com/ Ladyada Another great site with a wealth of information and products
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http://www.ladyada.net/ PCB-123 A good program to design patterns for your own boards. Download the FREE program below: http://www.sunstone.com/pcb-resources/downloads/ThankYou.aspx?ID=14 Reverse Engineering a Cheap Arduino Programming Cable http://www.kwartzlab.ca/2010/04/reverse-engineering-cheap-ardu/
Visitor's Comments & Questions

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CoreyK
Friday, August 12, 2011
@Eddie - My response to Eric Matthews is right asbove his post. You have to make sure you save the file... Not sure why its not working for you. If you right click and select \"Save Target as\", it should work. If you just click the link and open it in your browser, it will not prink correctly. Hope this helps.
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CoreyK
@Eddie - My response to Eric Matthews is right asbove his post. You have to make sure you save the file... Not sure why its not working for you. If you right click and select "Save Target as", it should work. If you just click the link and open it in your browser, it will not prink correctly. Hope this helps.
Eddie
Wednesday, August 10, 2011
Please answer the question about printout size. I print this pattern file after downloading and it doesn't fit page. What size should the final printout be? Eric Matthews asked same thing Monday, May 16, 2011 without response. Thanks Eddie
CoreyK
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
@MoB - Thanks for pointing that out! Yeah, I mirrored my first one as well. Glad you got one put together and assembled and its working.
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MoB
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
For everyone who wants to use the layout of Jens Beck, BE CAREFUL: The layout itself is already mirrored, though the text isnt! This means that if you mirror it again for printout, you will end up with a wrong curcuit! Think of it like you are looking from the top (where the electronics are) through the board. When you directly print the layout it will work but the type will be mirrored. Otherwise the type will be ok but the Atmega wont fit! I really like your design Jens, but because I was so excited I didnt recognize this point. I mirrored the file, etched the board and assambled it, just to find out that all connections are wrong (fliped). Pretty silly not to think about it before I started making it, so it was my fault :) I am now considering to bend the legs of my Atmega to make it fit, though I know its not a good idea... But anyhow, when you print it the right way, I think your curcuit should work properly. @Corey: Thank you very much for this tutorial, its just great! It all works really well and I was able to make a neat PCB (besides the problems discribed above :)) in my first attempt.
CoreyK
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
@Eric Matthews: Did you save the file and then print it? If you just print from the web browser, it won't come out right. You have to actually download the file and print it. Right click and select "save target as" Hope this helps. ~ Corey
Eric Matthews
Monday, May 16, 2011
Corey, Thanks for a wonderful and inspiring tutorial. However, I am having trouble printing the pattern to size. It comes out the wrong size on my HP laserjet 1012. I have been able to approximate the size by choosing landscape mode and then telling the printer driver to pring at 128%, but I'm just approximating. Is there a way to ensure the correct size? I'm printing from IE8. Please tell me there's a better way to print this. Again, You've done a beautiful job on this. Eric Matthews
Sergio Montini
Thursday, May 12, 2011
Amazing! I'm going to follow this tutorial step-by-step and build my own Arduino. Thanks for sharing with the community!
CoreyK
@Mike Herbst - Check the LED. In your picture, the top row is (-) the middle is (+) and the bottom one connects to the chip. Based on how the resistor looks, you might have it set up wrong. The long leg (with resistor) should go into the bottom row, and the short leg shoud go to the top row. Also, if ANY of the solder from the atmega chip's pins touch, it will not work. it's of course ok for (-) to touch (-) and (+) to touch (+). But if the actual pins cross anything, it won't work. The power light will come on, as in your pic, but thats all you'll get. Hope this helps. Let me know. It took me a bunch of attempts before I got my first board to work. Don't get discouraged! Its awesome when it works!
Mike Herbst
Hi, thanks for teh tutorial. I did it, but i can get it to work - i have no idea why it does not work. I gave a aduino bootloader with my programmer on my Arduiono board (2009) and programmed the blink program - works perfect on Arduino board. Then i put the Atmel to the DIYdurino board - but noting happend :-( I have checked connection but no shortens and the pinheader are connected in a right way to the corresponding C pin. the Voltage Regulator works perfekt 5,02V i have no clue whar should i check
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thanks for your help
Cory
Monday, May 2, 2011
totally agree with you. My blog: le credit ou Rachat de Credit sygma
CoreyK
Monday, March 28, 2011
@Jens Bek: Thanks for the pattern. It looks like the component placement should be easy to figure out. Though maybe you could post another photo for others and show how you'd set it up. I'll have to give it a try and see how it works. I also created one without the wires. Working on making a RBB board too. Glad you liked the tutorial! ~ Corey Kingsbury
Jens Bek
Sunday, March 27, 2011
I can see that the system cuts out html-code, so the links to the dosn't exist, but here they are: http://jbek.dk/atmega328 /pattern.rev.printout.jpg http://jbek.dk/atmega328/singleprint.jpg
Jens Bek
A very very usefull tutorial,- thank You!! The only tiny litle thing I disliked, was the jumperwires on the PCB. So I desighted to tuch up the layout a bit. Also the issue brougth up by Tiago about conecting the CA-42 cable, was on my mind. Acording to the site mentioned, the conection should go like this: Gnd N/C Vcc TX RX RST I ended up with this design:
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On the componentside, the Power-On LED are moved to the SW-corner, along with it's resistor. The Reset-button are moved to the edge and it's resitor located just North of the 328's cassing. The two copperlanes on W-side has changced polarity. The board keeps the same messures. I don't have the ability to try out the design at the moment, so please get back to me, if you try it out. It costed me a sixpack of beer to figure this redesign out, and now I will go nurse my hangovers! :-) Related files: Single board printout Full side printout I realy hope you can use the design Best reguards Jensi
theDane
Thursday, March 17, 2011
This is awesome. Thank you very much for putting the time into showing how to do this. Could you make a board that uses a 16mHz crystal resonator? I think it's better, because the ceramic caps are inside. Just a thought, but overall this is an EXTREMELY useful tutorial.
CoreyK
Tuesday, March 15, 2011
I'll email it to you. Do me a favor though, and send me the changes you make, I'd like to see what you do. Especially if you add a motor driver!
Tiago Mitsuo
@CoreyK -- So, I'd like to get the source file, ie "file.123", not the program. I would like to change the layout of your board. Thank you and sorry for the inconvenience.
CoreyK
@Tiago -- here is the link: http://www.sunstone.com/pcb-resources/downloads/ThankYou.aspx?ID=14If you do a search for the program "PCB123" you'll find it.
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Tiago Mitsuo
@CoreyK -- Your board is very good and cheap. At ebay, the cable is very cheap. I think that a motor drive would be very practice. I thought about it for using in mini sumo robot. I haven't found the PCB source file.
CoreyK
@Tiago -- I have seen that, and I want to try to build one. The program I used to design the PCB is called PCB123, there is a link to it in the Resources part of the page. Hmmmm L293? A motor driver? Interesting. It could be done, but I would redesign the board to fit it better.
Tiago Mitsuo
@CoreyK, I would make the project cheaper, so I asked the serial connection. Had you seen this? http://www.kwartzlab.ca /2010/04/reverse-engineering-cheap-ardu/ What program you designed the PCB? Could you send me the source file? I would include a L293D in your PCB. Thank you!
CoreyK
Saturday, March 12, 2011
@Tiago -- I'm not sure if you can connect that. I've only used the FT232 as shown in the tutorial. Many of the other cables require you to use the reset pin, which isn't accessible on my design -- cause it isnt needed by the FT232. You may be able to drill through to the reset pin, (top left) and drill it before the path to the button. But I'm not sure, I've never done this. I hope this helps you!
Tiago Mitsuo
Friday, March 11, 2011
Excellent work! I have a question, can I connect the serial cable (RS232) directly on this board? For example, could I soldering a DB9 female connector in this board? Thank you very much!
CoreyK
@Bruce Allen -- pretty much, yeah. Though I have had some get disolved when I mixed the acid too strong. It seems the regular/thicker Sharpies are better for direct etching, and the smaller Sharpies are good for just touching up the toner.
Bruce Allen
So, does this mean a Sharpie can be used directly for a "resist" pen? So I can just draw some quickey PCB artwork if I don't mind how primitive it will look?
Leif Nygaard Eilertsen

I love what you have put together. I am looking into Arduino as part of my hexacopter project and your tutorial made me realize what can be done using prototyping.
IuriiO
Thursday, March 10, 2011
Amazing! Thanks for this, I've been looking for it for a long time :)
FrankRizzo
yes, awesome!
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DIY Arduino
Bean_or_beaR
Dude, this is totally awesome. I've been looking for a place that had all of this on one page. I'm soooooo making one of these. thank you thank you!
CoreyK
@ZikZak - here is how to burn the bootloader: http://arduino.cc/en/Hacking/Bootloader?from=Main.Bootloader I usually just buy them with the bootloader on it, so I've never tried it... hope this helps.
ZikZak
GREAT ! Could you write a How-To about a DIY to install the bootloader on an empty atmega ?
Paul
Wednesday, March 2, 2011
Thanks!
Jojo
Wednesday, March 2, 2011
cool!
All contents copyright Corey Kingsbury - All rights reserved Any unauthorized reproduction of text or images without expressed written permission is strictly forbidden and may result in legal action.
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DIY Arduino

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Transferring the Pattern

12"x12" Copper Board still in the wrapping

Preparing the Copper Board

Preparing the Pattern

Here is a trimmed pattern with a little tab to hold it by.

The Transfer Procedure

Etching the Board

From Left: Lacquer Remover, Muriatic Acid, Hydrogen Peroxide

Plastic Protective Gloves

1/4 cup Measuring Cup

smells pretty nasty -- not to mention looks pretty gross too.

Gently place the board into the etching solution.

Continue to wipe areas where there is still copper.

A Note on the Disposal of Chemicals

Drilling the Holes

Putting it All Together

Components & Tools

3 Little Wires, DIP Socket, ATmega 328

(2) Electrolytic Decoupling Capacitors - 10uF/25V, Voltage Regulator 5V

Crystal 16MHz, (2) Capacitor Ceramic 0.1uF

Break Away Female Headers, Bottom row has been cut

Solder (left) Flux (center) De-soldering braid (right)-- for errors!

Some Ways to Get Power

Creating a Power Supply

This is a different version of a DC plug.

Programming With FT232RL

Here is basically how the connection looks.

Some Good Resources:

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thanks for your help

totally agree with you. My blog: le credit ou Rachat de Credit sygma

Leif Nygaard Eilertsen

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