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Mock Cable Socks on 2 Circular Needles

Mock Cable Socks on 2 Circular Needles

A Free Pattern
By Cindy Greenslade

Materials:
• 16” circular needle in size 2.75mm or 3mm or 3.25mm
• 24” circular needle in size 2.75mm or 3mm or 3.25mm
• Fingering weight yarn apx 325 yards(if this is your 1st sock on 2 circs try using 2
colored yarns. I recommend Patons Kroy or a similar type yarn
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch Markers
*point protectors (use the point protectors on the needles that are not in use)
Abbreviations:
CO: cast on
K: knit
K2tog: knit 2 together
Cst: cable stitch
P: purl
Rep: repeat
rnd(s): round(s)
rs: right side
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sl: slip stitch

Ssk=slip, slip, knit= slip the next 2 st knitwise, one at a time onto working needle, then
knit them together with other needle
st: stitch
sts: stitches
pm: place marker
ws: wrong side
wyib: with yarn in back
wyif: with yarn in front
*Note
cable stitch: knit 2 together, do not remove needle. Insert Right hand needle through 1st
stitch on Left hand needle knitwise and knit it. Then slip both stitches off the needle.
This pattern uses the same amount of stitches for 3 sizes, ladies small, medium and, large.
It is the size of the needle that determines the size of the sock. With the smaller needle
corresponding to the smaller sock and so on. The pattern is a basic pattern and is a
learning pattern for the technique of knitting 2 socks on 2 circular needles.
The heel stitches are the stitches on the 16” needle and the instep stitches are the stitches
on the 24” needle

Casting On:
Using "long tail cast on" cast on 60 stitches onto the 24 inch needle
Slip 30sts purlwise on to the 16 inch needle and ensuring that the stitches face in towards
each other.
Slide the sts on both needles to the opposite end.
Take the tail and thread through a tapestry needle, bring the yarn through 1st stitch on the
opposite needle and then through the 1st stitch on the other needle. The round is now
joined and will be “A”. Now repeat and call this “B”.
The picture below shows all the stitches casted on and separated.
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Knitting the Cuff:

Begin the cuff by knitting from the 16” needle of A (heel stitches) in a K2, P2 rib ending
with K2 . When you have completed these 30sts move you must flip your needle so that
the unknit stitches from sock B will be on the left hand side and the knit stitches of sock
A are on the right hand side with yarn over needles. Knit the 30sts of sock B. Now stitch
the 30sts on the 24” needle of sock B (the instep stitches) beginning with P2 and ending
with P2. Then rib those on needle A. 1 round has been completed. Continue in rib for 1 to
2 inches, width of cuff is your choice.
*Tip: It is beneficial to place a stitch marker after the first knit stitch. I like to use 2
different colour markers and on my pattern I write which color corresponds to which
sock. For example the blue stitch marker is sock A and the white stitch marker is sock B
When your desired cuff width is achieved begin knitting leg on 16” needle sock A .
Knitting the Leg:
The pattern for the sock is as follows:
Rnds 1,2&3:
Needle A heel K30
Needle B heel K30
Needle A instep K10, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K10
Needle B instep K10, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K10
(counts as 1 round)
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Rnd 4:
Needle A heel K30
Needle B heel K30
Needle A instep K10, P2, Cst, P2, Cst, P2, K10
Needle B instep K10, P2, Cst, P2, Cst, P2, K10
Repeat rounds 1 through 4 until leg is desired length.
*note the heel stitches will always be knit
Pattern Chart for instep stitches only(24 inch needles)
k k k k k k k k k p p k k p p k k p p k k k k k k k k k k row1
k k k k k k k k k p p \ \ p p \ \ p p k k k k k k k k k k row4
k k k k k k k k k p p k k p p k k p p k k k k k k k k k k row3
k k k k k k k k k p p k k p p k k p p k k k k k k k k k k row2
k k k k k k k k k p p k k p p k k p p k k k k k k k k k k row1
Chart Abbreviations:
• k=knit
• p=purl
• \\= cable stitch
* because the chart is for the instep stitches only read it from right to left
*cable stitch: knit 2 together, do not remove needle. Insert Right hand needle through 1st
stitch on Left hand needle knitwise and knit it. Then slip both stitches off the needle.
End with right side facing and next round starting on Needle A heel.
If you have to knit a ½ round or a full round to get to start position that is okay.
Heel Flap:
Row 1 (rs): on A sl1st as if to purl, * K1, sl1wyib* rep until last st, K1 now move to B
and repeat
Row 2 (ws): on B sl1st purlwise, P to last st, K1 now move to A and repeat
Work these 2 rows for a total of 22 rows ending with row 2. The heel flap should
measure 2 ¼ “,
2 ½ “, 2 ½ “
*TIP: the heel flap will be worked back and forth on rows of the 2 heel needles (on the
16” needle only). You will work 1 set of stitches on A and then on B. Do not work instep
stitches.
Heel Turn:
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Start with sock A and make the heel turn for each sock separately. That is 1 sock at a
time.
Sock A:
Row 1: Knit 17 sts, Ssk, K1, turn
Row 2: Slip1, P5, P2tog, P1, turn
Row 3: Slip1, knit to 1 stitch before gap, ssk to close the gap, K1, turn
Row 4: Slip1, purl to one stitch before gap, P2tog to close the gap, P1, turn
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all stitches have been worked leaving 18stitches on needle.
Pick up 15 sts down the left hand side of the needle (14 sts down side and 1 in the
corner).
Finish with yarn hanging from the sock in the middle of the 16 inch needles of sock A
and B
Repeat the above for sock B
*Ssk=slip, slip, knit= slip the next 2 st knitwise, one at a time onto working needle, then
knit them together with other needle.Here is a link that includes a video
KnittingHelp.com
Pick up Stitches for Gusset:
Knit across the 30 instep stitches on the 24” needle for sock B and sock A maintain
pattern.
Pick up 1 stitch in corner and 14 stitches along side of sock A for a total of 15 stitches.
Knit the heel and other gusset stitches on sock A. Now pick up 1 corner stitch on sock B
and 14 stitches along side of sock B, knit remaining heel and gusset stitches.
The gusset stitches have now all been picked up.
Gusset Decreases:
Knit across all instep stitches continuing in established instep pattern.
Row 1: (on 16” needle Sock A) Knit to last 3sts, K2tog, K1
Repeat on Sock B
Row 2: (on 24” needle sock B) knit across
Repeat on sock A
Rnd 1: (on 16” needle sock A) K1, ssk, knit to end of sock A.
Repeat for sock B
Rnd 2: (on 24” needle sock B) knit
Repeat on sock A
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Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until there are 30 stitches per sock on the 16” needle and on the
24” needle for a total of 60 stitches per sock.

The Sole:
Work the stitches on the 16” needle (now called the “Sole” stitches) in knit and follow
the pattern for the instep stitches on the 24” needle until the sock is at the base of the big
toe when tried on. Or the sock measures from the back of the heel for small 6 ½ “, for
medium 7”, for large 7 ½ “. This should be about 1 ½ “ less than the length of the foot of
the wearer.

The Toe:
Knit 1 more round of sock A and B to beginning of sole stitches. That is the stitches on
the 16” needle. Starting with sock A on the 1” needle begin rnd 1
Rnd1: sole and instep: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches of sock A, K2tog, K1.
Repeat for sock B
Rnd2: knit across both needles for each sock.

Repeat these 2 rounds until there are 8 stitches left per sock on each needle. That is a total
of 16 stitches per sock. Cut yarn leaving a 10 to 12 inch tail. Graft the toes using the
Kitchener stitch.

Copyright C. Greenslade 2008