ANX - B

NISHAT MILLS LIMITED

(APPAREL DIVISION)
7-KM Nishat Avenue off 22-KM Ferozepur Road Lahore, Pakistan.

Training

Manual

SEWING MACHINE OPERATORS TRAINING PROGRAM

APPAREL MANUFECTURING Training Institute

Resource Planning, Maximum Utilization of Man, Machinery and Space.

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION).

Index
TOPIC NO. Part 1
1. Background of Project 2. Objectives of Training 3. Target Groups 4. Eligibility & Testing Procedures 5. Infrastructure (Tools & Equipment) 6. Schedule of Training 7. Qualities of A Formally Trained Operator 8. Measurement of Training 05 05 06 06 11 14 17 17

PAGE

Part 2
9. General Instructions or General Practice 10. Safety & Compliance 11. Introduction to Sewing Machine & Its Parts 12. Introduction to Thread & Fabric 13. Introduction to Stitches & Seams 14. Introduction to Garments 15. Introduction Quality & Defects 16. Basic Terminologies Used in Garments INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 19 20 21 30 32 35 36 37 3

Part 3
17. Paper Exercises 18. Sample Operation Break Downs 19. Miscellaneous Reports & Formats 40 48 52

PART 1
INTRODUCTION TO
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 4

THE TRAINING PROJECT

BACKGROUND OF THE TRAINING PROJECT

For the developing world Garment & Clothing sector is major export earner & growth in exports in the garment sector of Pakistan has increased chances of employment. But still it faces some challenges such as increasingly competitive global environment, high population growth, high unemployment rate, large number of unskilled or informally skilled workforce in the country and inadequate labor market information. In consideration of these challenges we are starting a project of Sewing Machine Operators Training to enhance the skill level of garment and sewing industry workers so that this important backbone industry of Pakistan can survive the tough challenges of global competition. The project is targeted at reducing unemployment while simultaneously increasing much needed skilled workforce efficiency for the garment industry.

OBJECTIVES OF TRAINING
The main goal of this training program is to prepare skilled workforce for the garment sector of Pakistan & to provide employment chances & confidence to the workforce so that they can enter in Apparel Field with the level of competencies, well equipped with the job knowledge, techniques & precision in performance. INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 5

To achieve main goal of this training program, we have to make sure that training should meet following objectives, 1. Provision of basic sewing skill knowledge. 2. Education of basic information about sewing operations and machine maintaining techniques. 3. Education of efficiency enhancement methods. 4. Education of quality oriented sewing methods. 5. Production of multi-skilled sewing operators regarding operating different types of sewing machines for different sewing operations. 6. Introducing the garment manufacturing environment culture discipline. 7. Education of health & safety techniques in sewing.

TARGET GROUPS
Following persons will be targeted to be hired as trainee machine operators. Having age between 18 to 30 years on the date of interview. People which have not done any job before will be given priority and unemployed person will be given priority to the employed person. People living near the facility of training or near the industrial area.

ELIGIBILITY & TESTING PROCEDURES

Trainers Qualification Criteria:
The eligibility to apply for trainer is as follows:

At least Intermediate or equivalent

Diploma in Trainer of Sewing Machine Operator

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 6

OR Diploma in Pattern Making, Cutting and Costume Making OR Diploma in Dress Designing & Tailoring At least two years experience in the relevant field. Experience as Trainer will be preferred. Medical Fit Certificate. Eligibility for Trainees:
The eligibility to apply for trainees is as follows: At least 18 years of date on date of application. At least Middle / 8th Standard Pass (Matriculation will be preferred). Medical Fit Certificate

Pre-employment Testing:
It is the People who make an organization successful & it is very important to hire productive people means a right person right first time. Although there are as many answers as there are questions about ways to maximize the productivity of the people, the most cost-effective answer is pre-employment testing. It gives greater chances of hiring more efficient and productive people. If there is not any pre-employment assessment, if you retain the person because you go by warm body is better than nobody theory of keeping the machines busy then that person will continue to cost you. There are some pre-employment tests which we shall conduct before hiring given as below. 1) Dexterity Tests a) Peg Board Test b) Pin/Needle Board c) Ball & Tube Test d) Threading Board Test INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 7

2) Visual Accuracy Tests a) Eye-mind Co-ordination Test b) Color Blindness Test 3) General Aptitude and Literacy Test There are four parts of the test. i) Mathematics ii) Urdu iii) English iv) IQ/Reasoning Test (2 Questions) (2 Questions) (2 Questions) (4 Questions)

DEXTERITY TEST
The word dexterity has several meanings such as skill & grace in physical movement, skill in use of hands & expertness in manual acts, mental skill or adroitness, cleverness etc There are certain tests to judge dexterity of a person, well use some of them suitable for us. .

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION).

Detail of these tests is given as below. Peg Board Test This test is performed to measure Hand Dexterity & Arm Dexterity of a person. It is done in three different ways i.e. with right hand only, with left hand only & with both hands and time is noted by IE Officers/Time Study Technicians of this test in each way. Thing 1. Quickness of hands and arms. 2. Concentration & Hands Mind Arm co-ordination 3. Skill comparison between right & left hand. 4. Co-ordination and movement of both hands while doing work using both hands. Pin Board Test: This test is mainly carried out to check the sense of touch of the candidate and fingers expertness of movement. In this test candidate has to pick two or more pins (decided before 2 or 3 or more but fix at a time) from a box without watching and inserts it in the hole in a specified time period. Following are the things which are observed during this test. b). Sense of touch of candidate b). Fingers movement. b). Fingers grip. b). Co-ordination of fingers with mind. Balls & Tube Test This test is performed with Left hand & Right hand and readings for both are taken separately and it is determined through this whether candidate is strong on left or right hand. There are numerous balls placed which needs to be passed through a tube in the given time. More the balls are passed, more the points earned. 1. Quickness does matter more than anything. 2. To achieve the targets during lesser time period by using both hands simultaneously. Threading Board Test INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 9

It is also a king of dexterity test but as it is directly related to our nervous system and eye sight so we can name it visual nervous test. In this exercise we check: 1. Operator's nervousness. 2. Eye and hand coordination 3. Vision (Eye Sight) 4. Concentration

VISUAL ACCURACY TEST

Eye and Mind Co-ordination Test: This test is carried out to check the eye and mind control of candidate. In this test candidate is given a paper on which continuous but random/irregular lines are drawn. Each line is given a number on starting point (e.g 10 have number 1 to 10). Candidate has to write the same number on the end point of same line without pointing the path of line with finger or anything.

Color Blindness Test: In Color Blindness Test, candidate is shown a print (image, digitetc) which is made of multi-colored small shapes (with dots, circles etc). The candidate has to identify the normal look of the image. Please see below the sample image.

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION).

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The normal read this as 45. The majority of those with color vision deficiencies can not read them or read them incorrectly.

INFRASTRUCTURE
ORGANOGRAM MANAGER
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING

DEPUTY MANAGER

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION).

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ASSITANT MANAGER MAINTENANCE (01)

CHIEF TRAINING INSTRUCTOR (02)

ASST. MANAGER INDSUTRIAL ENGINEERING (01)

TECHNICIAN (02)

ELECTRICIAN (02)

TRAINING INSTRUCTOR (06)

INDUSTRIAL
ENGINEERING

OFFICERS (02)

COMPUTER OPERATOR (02)

CLERK (02)

EQUIPMENT & TOOLS

Machinery:
The list of machines required is as follows:

HELPER (02)

Machine Type Quantity

1) Single Needle Lockstitch (Auto) 2) Double Needle Lockstitch (Auto) 3) Double Needle Chainstitch 4) 6 Thread Over-lock (Auto) INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 120 20 06 30 12

5) Waistband Attach Machine 6) Feed Of Arm (Auto) 7) Bar-tack (Auto) 8) Cover Stitch (Auto) 9) Zigzag Stitch Machine 10) Auto Welt 11) Button Hole - Straight (Auto) 12) Button Hole - Eye Let (Auto) 13) Snap Machine 14) Auto Loop Machine 15) Mock Machine 16) Auto Bottom Hem Machine 17) Make Loops 18) Button Attach Machine (Auto)

08 16 16 04 02 03 02 04 04 03 03 04 04 03

Total Number of Machines:

252

Miscellaneous Tools & Equipment:

Following is the list of miscellaneous tools & equipment required for trainees.

Type Quantity
1) Scissors (6) 2) Measuring Tape 3) Clipper/Hand Cutter INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 13 25 50

200 4) Presser Foot (Regular SN-Lockstitch) 5) Presser Foot (1/8 Guide, SN-Lockstitch) 6) Presser Foot (Waistband M/C) 7) Presser Foot (1/8 & 1/16 - Feed of Arm M/C) 8) Presser Foot (Mix for DN-Lockstitch) 9) Presser Foot (Zipper Attach) 10) Needles 248 11) T-Guide 12) Magnetic Guide 13) Pocket Hem Folder 14) Front Pocket Opening (Hang-sewing) Folder 15) Waistband Attach Folder (1-Pc, 2-Pcetc) 16) Fell Seam / Lapped Seam Folder 17) Binding / Piping Folder 18) Bottom Hem Folder 19) Loop Making Folder 20) Steam Iron Electrical 21) Finger Guards 22) Eye-Guards 23) Screw Drivers Small 24) Chairs 25) White Board 26) Press Tables & Marking (4x3.5x4) 27) Cutting Table (8x6x4) 220 02 10 02 05 248 60 50 50 10 05 10 08 10 05 04 04 05 80 40 08 16 20

SCHEDULE OF OPERATORS TRAINING

Day 1: INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 14

a). Orientation about Training Program its background, objectives, scope and Rules & Regulations to be followed. b). Introduction to the Staff & Pre-designed Training Schedule.

Day 2: a). Lecture Introduction to Sewing Machines and brief detail of function of general machine and their parts. b). Practical General Practice and Sewing Instructions about basics how & where to sit while operating the machine, practice for sewing machine control and eye-hand-foot coordination. Day 3 to 8: a). Lecture Safety and Compliance Rules general knowledge about safety & compliance issues. Needle parts of needle, general types of needle and their usage. Presser Foot its parts, general types and usage. Oiling how to lubricate the machine and its importance. Threading how to thread through machine parts, its sequence, relation of thread tension & stitch quality and right way of bobbin winding. b). Practical Threading practice of threading the machines. General Maintenance how to keep machine cleans, its oiling, petty Paper Exercises 1-7 paper exercises for basic sewing practice and repeated

maintenance tricks practice of these exercises on fabric.

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION).

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Day 9 to 15: a). Lecture Threads introduction, different types of threads. Fabrics general types of fabrics, and needle relationship. Introduction to Measurement & Its Units what is measurement, how to measure, tools & units of measurement (UOM) and importance of measurement in a garment. b). Practical Measurement Practice practice of measurement with measuring tape in inches & centimeters. Specific Machine Control Practice practice machine control on special types of machine such as Double Needle Lock Stitch, Double Needle Chain Stitch, Six Thread Over-lock, Feed of Arm, Waistband Machine, Cover-stitch, Auto Loop Attach, Auto Bottom Hem, Auto Welt, Mock Stitch, Bar-tack, Button-hole, SNAP and Zig-Zag Machine . Basic Sewing Practice attach, edge stitch (1/8, 1/4), single fold hem and double fold hem. Day 16 to 34: a). Lecture: Garment introduction and basic types of garment. Garment Construction operations in basic types of garments. Stitch & Seam basic idea of stitch & seam and difference between them. General types of stitch & seam, ISO classification and ISO numbers for common stitch & seam types. Introduction to Quality, Sewing Defects & Remedies what is quality, importance of quality. what is defect, common types of sewing defects, their causes, educating how to remove defect and advantages of defect free sewing. b). Practical INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 16

 Practice on General Operations back yoke & rise attach (FOA-fell seam), back patch pocket hem & attach, front facing attach, topstitch front pocket opening, panel attach + topstitch, crotch seam, join side seam (safety over-lock), inseam (safety join & fell seam both), topstitch hipline, waistband attach, hem leg opening, bar-tack back pocket & front pocket opening, loop attach to body, main label attach. Day 35 to 42: Complete back section training on Basic 5-Pocket and Chino Pant with time measurement by Industrial Engineering Officers and try to achieve hourly operational target as per standards. Day 43 to 50: Complete front section training on Basic 5-Pocket and Chino Pant with time measurement by Industrial Engineering Officers and try to achieve hourly operational target as per standards. Day 51 to 58: Complete Assembly-1 Section training on Basic 5-Pocket and Chino Pant with time measurement by Industrial Engineering Officers and try to achieve hourly operational target as per standards. Day 59 to 69: Complete Assembly-2 Section training on Basic 5-Pocket and Chino Pant with time measurement by Industrial Engineering Officers and try to achieve hourly operational target as per standards. Day 70 to 75: Complete garment making. a). b). INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). Five garment of basic five pocket. Five garment of chino pant. 17

Day 76: Examination (Written & Viva) Day 77: Visit to a garment factory for complete understanding of factory environment & flow. Day 78: Certificates Awarding Ceremony

QUALITIES OF FORMALLY TRAINED MACHINE OPERATORS

A formally trained sewing operator usually has different qualities as compared to other machine operators which not formally trained. 1. Disciplined & well mannered 2. Quality conscious. 3. Basic knowledge of machine & its mechanism. 4. Knowledge and practice of compliance issues regarding their safety & working environment. 5. Rhythm or continuation in work which causes the same and controlled Quality. 6. Strictly acting upon cleanliness of machine & work place. 7. Knowledge of all Sewing Terminologies. 8. Having Minimum efficiency of 40%. 9. Consistency in performance regarding quality oriented manufacturing.

MEASUREMENT OF TRAINING
a) All the activities of trainees are measurable and we measure them by the following INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 18

tools. b) Date of their entry tests are kept in record. c) There is a test after completely all papers in sewing exercises on the basis of result training instructor allow him to start new exercise are still repeat the same till palling 1st one. And result of all these are kept in record. d) All activities of a trainee are recorded on daily work sheet. e) There is also an exercise progress summary in which we can see progress of any trainee in summarize form. f) Daily production or single cycle graph show his working efficiency in graphic form.

PART 2
COURSE MATERIAL
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 19

& THEORY GUIDE

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR MACHINE OPERATORS

As shown by their name these are those instructions or practices which must be second habit of any machine operator. 1) Your workplace should be kept cleaned. 2) You have to be dressed up and combed neatly. 3) Always use bins. 4) Deep your machine cleaned. 5) Do not bring your personal items towards your work place. 6) Do not write on machine. 7) Do not paste anything on machine bed. 8) Completely clean up your machine at the start end of your work. 9) Do not try to repair any mechanical or electrical fault of machine. 10) Off the power, when you leave the machine even for seconds, or when shut down, you want to change needle, thread or oil. INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 20

11) Check the oil gauge and proper working of oil pump before start work. 12) Place a piece of fabric between the pressure foot and the needle plate at the end of work in the evening to prevent oil stains. 13) Completely wipe off any oil on the pressure foot before starting the machine in the morning. 14) Do not start work without sufficient safety grads such as needle guard, eye guard, pulley cover, wheel cover etc. 15) Always tie up sharp tools with machine. 16) Don't throw oil in the floor. If so clean the floor immediately. 17) Wear mask while especially over lock machine. 18) Don't operate any other machine without permission of supervisor. 19) Don't sit on machine bed. 20) Always come 5 minutes before your shift starts. 21) At shift start complete the remaining bundles before taking new bundle. 22) Neither any bundle should be passed to next operation even without a single piece nor should pieces having incomplete operations be sent with bundle. 23) Don't put any garment or part of garment on the floor.

SAFETY & COMPLIANCE

Garment manufacturing, like other industrial processes, can be hazardous work. Its important for employers and workers to be aware of the hazards associated with garment manufacturing and take precautions to guard against work-related illnesses and injuries. As cutting tools and knitting or sewing needles can pose cut and puncture hazards, workers should be instructed to follow basic safety precautions while working with sharp and cutting instruments. Precautions include: using sharp tools that are in good repair; carrying and storing sharp tools properly; and always cutting away from the eyes and body. Workers need to stay alert when working with sharp objects and make sure needles are properly guarded. INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 21

Chemicals also play a part in garment manufacturing. Dyes, enzymes, solvents, and other chemicals are used to create different fabric finishes and Fluff is also produced when fabric is being cut or sewn on some machines. As a result, chemical particles along with fluff floats in the air we breathe. So, proper ventilation, respiratory protection, and other personal protective equipment are important to protect workers. Because much of garment work involves close viewing of the garment, eye protection is critical. Garment workers can avoid eye injuries by using proper shields on high speed sewing machinery or safety glasses where appropriate. Also, adequate task lighting at individual work stations can prevent eye strain. Some garment manufacturing equipment can be very loud, so proper hearing protection may be necessary. Because a garment factory uses many heated processes, it is important for workers to avoid heat stress by labeling and guarding hot surfaces and drinking plenty of water during their shift. Proper ventilation can help to reduce ambient temperatures and ensure worker comfort. Many tasks in garment manufacturing require repetitive motions . To prevent ergonomic injuries workers should be encouraged to rotate tasks or take frequent, short breaks to stretch and relax muscles. Work stations should allow enough space for the task, have appropriate working height, and provide proper seating. Manufacturing tools and machinery should incorporate ergonomic design principles and should not require an excessive amount of force to operate.

With proper training and instruction, machine guarding, personal protective equipment, and ergonomically designed work systems, garment workers can manufacture products in safe and healthy workplaces.

INTRODUCTION TO SEWING MACHINE AND MACHINE PARTS

Sewing Machine:
The sewing machine is used for sewing purposes. The machine is operated either by the use of foot or through the use of electricity. It requires skills, knowledge, and expertise to operate the sewing machine accurately.

Sewing Machine Parts:

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 22

1. Thread Stand Thread cones/package is placed on thread stand. 2. Thread Guide used to direct thread to avoid thread slippage, also act as balloon breaker. 3. Tension Assembly it is used to adjust thread tension. 4. Tack up Lever this part of the sewing machine moves down to loosen the thread to prepare the formation of the stitch; it will move up in order to remove the slack as the stitch is completed.. 5. Needle it is used to pull thread through the cloth/fabric. 6. Needle Clamp it is mounted on needle clump with screws 7. Needle Bar it gives up & down motion to needle 8. Feed Dog its part of sewing machine that moves fabric under the presser foot 9. Needle Plate needle plate gives needle path down to looper/bobbin to make interlacement 10. Presser Foot function of presser foot is to hold the cloth in place while it is being sewn. 11. Presser Foot Bar Presser foot is mounted on the bottom of this bar and there is screw on top of the bar, pressure of foot can be adjusted through the screw. 12. Finger Guard it is used for safety measures, it stops finger of operator before needle while sewing. 13. Wiper it takes thread end to a side after the thread has been trimmed by auto-trimmer. It is part of machines with auto trimmer only. 14. Bobbin it is a small cylinder that has flanges on both ends. Thread is wound onto it. 15. Bobbin Case Bobbin is inserted in bobbin case before mounting in shuttle. Bobbin case helps in proper unwinding of thread & controls thread tension. 16. Bobbin Winder Bobbin winder, the bobbin winder is a short rod located just beside the balance wheel. This part is used to thread in the bobbin. 17. Shuttle it makes loop of bobbin thread with its hook that permit the needle thread to interlace with bobbin thread for stitch making. 18. Stitch Regulator This part of the sewing machine is responsible for regulating the length of stitches means it controls Stitch Per Inch (SPI). INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 23

19. Back Tack Button pressing this button reverses the direction of stitching. It is used for reinforcing the seam ends. 20. Balance Wheel 21. Power Switch It is for switching the machine to ON or OFF position. 22. Knee Lifter it is used to lift the presser foot with knee 23. Power Plug it is plugged in the power source. 24. Drawer it is under the machine bed & used to put sewing tools in it 25. Control Panel it is the part of digital machines on which there is display screen and some buttons. It is used for machines digital setting.

INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE

Function of needle: Needle helps us to make a hole through the material (fabric). It provides thread for the loop formation.

Parts of Needle:
Following are the main parts of a needle. 1. The shank of the needle 2. The blade of the needle 3. Groove of the needle 4. Scarf of the needle 5. Taper to the needle point 6. The needle eye 7. The needle point

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION).

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Structure of a Needle:

The shank of the needle:Shank is that part of needle which we fix into the machine / needle. The needle shank should fit the bar, needle bar / needle holder precisely skipped stitches and needle breakage are likely to occur when the needle is not properly set in its needle bar or needle clump. Most needles have comp lately round shanks but some types ate made with flat of notched surface to help secure them in precise position and to hold them more securely. The blade of the needle:There must be a proper balance between thickness and strength. Its easily understood that the thicker the needles blade the stronger it is. An excessive by thick needle, however, can cut thread and damage material there ate different types of blades to avoid cutting thread and to meet every sewing need such as slim blade, single step reinforced blade, double step reinforced blade and tapered blade etc. Groove of the needle:The function of the grove in the needle is to guide the thread to the needles eye with the least INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 25

resistance possible. It gives the protection for the thread when it passed through the material. For a variety of purpose it has different shapes, e.g. twin grooves, grooves having round edges, SRG/SGL which is spiral to prevent unraveling of multiple ply threads. Scarf of the needle:We can also call it controller of loops. This helps to create the smooth loop formation and also helps to make smooth movement of the shuttle various threads and condition of sewing can change the size shape and position of thread loops, skipped stitches and other problems with seams can often be prevented by maintaining proper loop formation. Providing a scarf (clearance above the eye) facilitates a thread loop formation which allows the looper or hook point to pick up the thread and form a proper stitch. A variety of scarf designs are available to suit various sewing conditions. Taper to the needle point:Its a key factor contributing to better stitches. Resistance to penetration is greatest when the area around needles eye passes through the sewn material to avoid damaging the material, it is best to distribute the resistance in the area of the taper to the needles point, it also has different shapes. These taper designs are intended to help prevent damaged material, puckering and loose stitches. The needles eye:A whole that any thread can pass through smoothly. During sewing, threads passing through the needles eye is tightened and loosed alternately the optimal condition for the thread is to pass smoothly through the needles eye with the minimum of strain. To achieve this objective, the needle eye must be highly by polished to provide the least friction for the thread especially custom made needles with over sized eyes can be supplied when using a course thread but a thicker needle blade cannot be used. The needles point:A pilot to guide the needle through the material. In sewing to depending on the shape of the point a needle can pass between the waves of the INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 26

material, through knots of waves threads or even through a woven thread itself. To ease passing between woven threads choose round point needles. A round point which is between 70% and 140% of the diameter of the wave is thread will minimize breakage of the sewing materials wave. To penetrate knots and woven threads, use sharp points needle, for leather sewing needle, choose cutting points of various designs. Needle points These are two types of needles according to their tip points. 1. Cutting point needle 2. Cloth point needle Details of both are as follow. 1. Cutting point needle:This type of needle is more suitable for stitching sheet materials with no space in the structure such as sheets; leather etc. in sheet material needle point must cut the sufficient space that the needle blade and the thread can pall through with out making the friction. Types of cutting point needle:There are following type of cutting point needles. a.) Wedge point b.) Cross point c.) Twist point d.) Triangular point e.) Square point 2. Cloth point needle:This type of needle used to stitch the textile fabric which is having the space where the needle can perpetrate / Pass through. In knitted fabric, it consists of yarn with space between them; if the yarn in knitted fabric broke then the knitted structure may be unpicked /unlocked. This yarn breakage may happen due to two reasons:1. By the needle directly strikes in the yarn and damage. INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 27

2. By the needle entering a knitted loop which is not large enough to accommodate it. Therefore the knitted fabric require the needle point which will slightly defect the yarn and enter the space the tip of needle is basin ball shape and the needle is referred to as "Ball Point Needle" The width of the needle eye is 5% thicker than that blade of needle. The needle opens a large hole to reduce friction between the blade and fabric. Preventing heat generation and needle burning this feature employed for most industrial sewing & needles. Double stepped needle blades: Double stepped blade needles reinforce the needle. Reduce lower surface friction. Double stopped blade shape reduces the needle breakage. This kind of needle reduces bending and wobbling. Reduce the lower needle part heat.

Surface Finishing of Needle

A needle should make extremely smooth contact with the material. The surface treatment of the needle is a key factor to reduce its penetration resistance and friction. Different surface treatments are provided depending on the types of the material.

Types of Surface Finishing:

Nickel Plating:Nickel plating is performed to smoothen the surface of needles and the are only use for home sewing machines. Chrome Plating:Two coating have been applied to the surface of the needle which help to reduce the heat from abrasion the surface layer is fluorocarbon surface of needles and they are only use for home sewing machines. INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 28

ASU: Most suitable for reducing needle heat when sewing delicate and fine fabrics. PSU: Compounds plating and surface treatment enables the needle to maintain long lasting anti adhesion properties suitable for delicate and fine materials. Performed same as nickel plating smooth the surface. Reduce the friction between the needle & the fabric. It also prevents increase in needle heat. The surface of chromo plated needle is hard, and it is effective against burning and friction Most industrial sewing machines needles are finished with chromo plating. This surface treatment has been developed for special fabrics. This finished has very much low friction. Due to this finish increase in needle heat hardly ever occurs. Sometime special fabric metal with the needle heat, this finish prevents the fabric for melting. Titanium Casting: Used for the extraordinary stitching. Ideally suited for the most demanding sewing applications. Tests have shown that titanium coated needles are approximately twice as hard as, and about five times as resistance to wear as conventional chromo-plated needles. Super/ Cool Sew Finishing:-

Problems Caused By Needle

A. Stitch Skipping:1. Needle Size 2. Needle Eye Size 3. Shape of Scarf 4. Damaged Needle INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 29

5. Contact between Needle & Gauge Parts B. Needle Breakage:1. It may happen because of: 2. Needle Size 3. Damage Needle 4. Needle Eye Size 5. Fabric Weight 6. Contact between Needle & Gauge Parts C. Thread Breakage:1. Needle Size 2. Damage Needle 3. Needle Eye Size 4. Fabric Weight 5. Contact between Needle & Gauge Parts D. Yarn Severance:1. Needle Size 2. Needle Point Shape 3. Damage Needle Point 4. Needle Heat E. Puckering:1. Needle Size 2. Needle Point Shape 3. Fabric Type

Preventive Measures:1. Silicon Oil (for thread lubrication) INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 30

2. Needle Cooler 3. Sewing Machine Speed 4. Change of Fabric or thread 5. Needle Type

Sewing Synthetic Fabric and Needle Temperature:Synthetic fabric is also a problem because is has low heat resistance. When needle has reaches the melting temperature of fabric the fabric begins to fuse which cause stitch skipping and yarn severance. Needle Temperature:Needle heat rises increasingly after the start of sewing and reaches a maximum temperature in 5 to 6 seconds. Temperature Distribution of a Needle:Each area of needle has its own temperature during sewing, Such as the point of needle, the needle eye and shank. The area around the eye of a needle has the highest temperature. The difference in temperature is due to needle size. The largest the diameter of the needle hole is, the higher heat rises. The needle size employed should be as small as possible. Causes of Yarn Severance in Sewing Fabrics 1. Needle Tip Shape: The sharper a needle tip, it is more likely that the needle will serve the individual yarns shen the needles goes into the fabric. To prevent this try a ball - point needle that spreads the fabric fiber and eliminate severing of the individual yarns this will reduce yarn severance. 2. Needle Point Shape: A lot of force may be required on the yarn by the shape of the needle point, when the needle is sewing special fabrics, This will cause yarn severance. INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 31

3. Needle Size: Needle size should be implementing as per the requirements of fabric wrong needle size a main cause of yarn severance. 4. Yarn Severance Due to Needle Heat:If the needle heat exceeds the melting temperature of special fabric, the yarn will be melted and damaged, causing yarn severance to solve this problem, needle heat preventing measure are needed. The Relationship Between Thread & Needles: If the needle size does not match the sewing thread being used, it will cause: Stitch Skipping Thread Breaking Defective finished stitches Select the correct needle as per requirement of the fabric.

NEEDLE CHART
Sr. # NEEDLE SYSTEM 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 DP X 5 DP X 5 DC X 27 TV X 5 UY X128 GASDP X 5 DV X 43 MR-5 EB X 755TYPE/NO 130/21 120/19 120/19 130/21 130/21 120/19 120/19 130/21 120/19 M/C TYPE S/N , D/N S/N , D/N OVER LOCK WAISTBAND ATTACH FEED OF ARM BARTACK COVERSTITCH / LOOP MAKE BOTTOM HEM EYE LET (BUTTON HOLE)

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INTRODUCTION TO FABRIC
Fabric is sheet made by interlacement or weaving of warp & weft yarns together. There are mainly two classifications of fabrics 1). Woven Fabrics Woven Fabrics: Woven fabric is made of strands of warp going in one direction and strands of weft going vertically to the warp and weaving in and out of the warp yarns. The resulting fabric has little stretch to it. There are different types of woven fabric most common are plain fabric, twill, denimetc 2). Knitted Fabrics

Knitted Fabrics: Knitted fabric is made of a single strand of yarn with row upon row of loops pulled through loops. The resulting fabric is stretchy. Knitting uses more yarn than weaving of similar dimensions. There are different types of knitted fabrics such as jersey fabric, rib, fleeceect.

INTRODUCTION TO THREAD
It's the fine, string-like material that people use when they sew fabrics together. Thread is used to keep fabrics together.

Types of Thread:
There are different types of thread according to its construction. Following is the brief detail of thread. 1) Spun Thread All spun threads are made up from staple fibers that are spun into single yarn and then plied to make a sewing thread. 2) Monofilament Thread INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 33

It is synthetic filament extruded to a specific diameter. It is clear from its name that it
consists of single strand only. Generally it is made of nylon and is called invisible thread also. 3) Continuous Filament Thread It is made of twisted single filaments which are again slightly twisted together and heat set make thread. 4) Core Spun Thread It consists of a continuous filament core of polyester covered with fibers of cotton or polyester. Then two or more of these composite yarns are twisted together to form thread. So, it gives strength of a continuous filament thread with the sewing performance of spun thread. 5) Textured Thread It is made of parallel continuous filaments of yarn which create softness and bulk. Textured filaments are then twisted slightly & heat set. These threads provide excellent coverage of seams & rolled edges that is why mostly used in loopers of a serging or overlock machine.

INTRODUCTION TO SEAMS AND STITCHES

Stitch:
One complete movement of a threaded needle through a fabric or material such as to leave behind it, a single loop or portion of thread.

Classification of Stitches
1. Chain Stitch (100) 2. Hand Stitch (200) 3. Lock Stitch (300) 4. Multi Needle Chain Stitch (400) 5. Over Lock (500) INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 34

6. Cover Stitch (600) Advantages of Lock Stitches 1. The lock stitch thread has more strength than the other threads. 2. The appearance of both side seams is same. 3. This stitch type is more reliable to form all types of shapes. 4. This stitch is more secure as compare to other stitches. Disadvantages of Lock Stitches 1. In machines of lock stitch the bobbin is used to provide lower thread but the bobbin contains a limited length of thread which is to be changed always. 2. This stitch type is more difficult to remove. The multi needle stitching with close space is not possible because we require more space for bobbins. This stitch type cannot be used for high stretch ability fabric due to lock stitch thread. Over lock Stitch:This stitch type has general characteristics of loop form. At least one or two of them pass around the edge of the fabric. This prevents the fraying edges of the fabric; this class has a high elasticity. Trimming knife of the edge ensure the neat ness prior to sewing.

Types of Seam
Seam is a mean to join two or more parts of garment together. Definition:Under the British standard 3870 Part II the definition of seam is "Seam is the application of stitches to one or more thickness of the material" The seam type and seam allowances are determined by the use of the following factors: Type of the Fabric:Type of Garments:Thick, thin, fraying etc. (Denim, Jeorjet, Fabric for pocket Lining) a. Tight fitting garments e.g. Loungers, etc. b. Loose fitting garments e.g. shirts, skirts, blouses etc. INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 35

Classification of Seam
Different seams can be divided under different classes: i. ii. iii. iv. v. vi. vii. viii. Class-I Plain Seam / French Seam Class-II Welt Seam / Machine Felt Seam Class-III Bound Seam Class-IV Channel Seam Class-V Ornamental Seam Class-VI Edge Neating Seam Class-VII Edge Stitched Seam Class-VIII End Closed Seam

Class- I Plain Seam / French Seam Plain Seam:This is the seam most commonly used for all types of fabric and garments attaching two parts components together e.g. it is either lock stitch, over lock, flat lock, chain stitch etc. French Seam:French seam is a self neating seam sheer than arrow seam produces clean finish. Because of these French seam is tighter and more secure than the plain seam. It is used in under seam, shoulder seam (In blouses made with thin fabric). It is also used to stitch garment parts which require neat finish such as collar, flap, cuff etc. Class-II Welt Seam / Machine Felt Seam Welt seam:Seam in this class is produced with the minimal of two components. Topstitch seam gives a decorative effect to the garment. Commonly those used for straight seam e.g. blazers, coats, men's wear etc. Felt Seam:It is formed of two needle machine and a folder to make the felt seam. This is commonly used INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 36

in long seams of garments to provide a strong seam e.g. in denim jeans side seam, inseam, back rise etc. Class-III Bound Seam Bound seam is usually made up with two components of base material and a strip of a fabric known as binding, Binding has to be in non-fray material. (Because it avoid the fraying edges before attach in the base material). To make binder attach in this seam we can use the folder on sewing. This type of seam is commonly used for under garments such as, vest brief T- Shirts and trousers etc. Class-IV Channel Seam:Channel seam consist of 3 components, two of basic material and one of under layer. In this case, the edge of the base material is turned to wrong side to form a seam allowance. This seam is used to make garments with contrast color for decorative purpose e.g. ladies skirts, blouse, jackets, etc. Class-V Ornamental Seam:Seam in this class are produced with minimum of one component. The sequence of stitches was applied in the plain surface of the fabric. This is also used for decorative purposes. Class-VI Edge Neating Seam:Seam in this class consist of where fabric edges are neat by means of stitches as well as folded edges. The simplest is the fabric edges neat in with the over lock. This type of seams used in dresses, blouses, skirts, shirts, etc. Class- VII Edge Stitches Seam:This constructs / consists with minimum of two components which is limited to one side and other two sides. This type of seam is commonly found in night dresses and under garments.

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Class-VIII End Closed Seam:This seam is produced by folding a stripe material in length with seam allowances. This seam is used for belt, loops and hanging loops of the garments.

INTRODUCTION TO GARMENTS
GARMENT:
The word garment means to article of outer clothing or covering. There is another term Apparel which means clothing or dress that covers or envelopes. Generally both are taken in same meanings.

Common Parts of Garments:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Front Panels Back Panels Yokes Back Pockets Watch Pocket, Pen Pocket, Coin Pocket, 5th Pocket Waistband Belt Loops Care Label Size Label

10. Care & Size Label 11. Shade & Line Label 12. Pocket Bag 13. Flag Label 14. Leather Label 15. Price Ticket 16. Zipper 17. Stud 18. Rivets 19. Welt Pocket 20. Knee Pocket 21. Pouch Pocket 22. Tool Pocket 23. Flap

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Construction of Garment
Please See Sample Break Down for Construction of Garments in PART-3

QUALITY & SEWING DEFECT

Quality:
Definition: Quality means conformance to the customer requirement. Or To meet the customer requirements. To achieve the quality should be the foremost preference for operators. Its a more productive approach. Always work keeping in mind do right first time

Defect:
Defect is the nonconformance from the customers requirement. Or Frailty or shortcoming in a product resulting from a departure from its design specifications during production. Always focus on defect free production as defect is an absolute loss and sometimes defect can cause real damage to the organization and employees. Disadvantages: Defect simply means the non-productive. Some defects are repairable and time is lost in rework. Some defects are irreparable the complete piece is lost. Creating more defects increases the cost of quality and cost of manufacturing both. If any customer find the defect this harms organizations and employees repute.

BASIC TERMINOLOGIES USED

IN
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1. Quality 2. Sewing Machines 3. Machine Oil 4. Tread 5. Thread Cutter 6. Scissors 7. Fabrics 8. Garments 9. First Aid Box 10. Fire Extinguisher 11. Stitch 12. Seam 13. Stitching 14. Sewing Units 15. Thread Cone 16. Dust Bin 17. Twill 18. Denim 19. Notches 20. Damage 21. Re-cut 22. Shading 23. S.P.I 24. S.M.V 25. Scale 26. Measuring Tape 27. Un-pick 28. Alteration 29. Reject & Rejection 30. Puckering INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT NISHAT MILLS LIMITED (APPAREL DIVISION). 40

31. Off-Shade 32. Easing inn 33. Face side 34. Fusing 35. Grain 36. Pile 37. Pleat 38. Cut # 39. Bundle # 40. Seam Allowance 41. Balance Cards 42. Trimming

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PART 3
FORMATS & SAMPLE DOCUMENTS
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PAPER EXERCISES

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SAMPLE OPERATION BREAK DOWNS

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MISCELLANEOUS REPORTS & FORMATS

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