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Parts for sale Our restoration Request a machine Request more info Visit us in Houston Party rentals Free downloads Site map and links Refurbishing Tips RGP content Houston Pin Locator Pinball videos TXPinball FAQ Pinball machine setup Make it Customized! How to play pinball IMPORTANT! Please use due care and precaution while following this pictorial. Use at your own risk. If you do not have any repair or refurbishing experience and/or knowledge, do not work on pinball machine circuit boards, power supply, transformer, connectors or anything inside at all and step away from the machine! Indiana Jones Pinball Machine Fixing, Troubleshooting and Problems. This pictorial is demonstrated on a 1993 Williams Indiana Jones pinball machine. However, many troubleshooting tips covered here are common to all others Bally and Wiliams games. We'll demonstrate how to do stuff, how to get it going reliably and what its most common problems are.

This webpage is for informational purposes only. TXPinball will not be held liable or responsible for any damage that occurs to your pinball machine or any bodily injury or any kind of damage by use or misuse of this technique. If you have no idea what you're doing, step away from the pinball machine! Drop that soldering iron in its holder! Now, onto the pictorial... Guess there are many ways to go about this and many ways to do these things. This is ours.

We will specifically deal here with many issues such as: Problems with the ball through assembly, in general (applies to many games not just Indiana Jones games), not machine specific Problems with game optos in general (applies to ALL games), not machine specific Endless multiball problem, the machine keep spitting balls out all the time Machine is serving 2 balls instead of 1 (Top Through opto switch problem) Path of Adventure mini playfield - If a pinball doesn't drop onto the Path of Adventure but just slides down onto left metal rail and goes down to left slingshot inlane Path of Adventure mini playfield - other problems with Path of Adventure and solutions to them explained in detail Golden Idol ball lock assembly problems and their solutions explained in fine detail. Also, complete dissasembly of the Idol ball lock unit explained in step by step Indiana Jones machine specific Switch Shorting - Shorting switch matrix and problems with stray airballs striking a nearby switch and solution to end it 3-Bank drop down target assembly problems. How it works, what's happenin' and solutions Other smaller problems not covered above. Anything else not mentioned here? Please, email us if you have any other suggestions or comments.
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Problems with the Ball-Through

Indiana Jones is the first machine with new opto switches ball through assembly that Williams designed, instead of the old ones with good, old and reliable leaf and wire switches. Upon the machine release, Williams touted it as "New, Improved, Better Design". It's been anything but that, and plagued with problems to this day. In short, it's been nothing but problems galore. Williams stuck with this "new & improved design" through 5 games Indiana Jones, Star Trek The Next Generation, Demolition Man, Popeye and Judge Dredd until they designed even better and "more improved" ball through assembly and dropped this one like a hot potato. If your machine is exibiting any of these problems: - Continuously lauching balls - Launching 2 balls simultaneously - Not lauching balls at all - Having endless multiball at the beginning of the game till it's powered off - Complaining with message "Pinball Missing, Please Wait..." even if balls are NOT missing Let's go through the design real quick.

Here is the ball through assembly. It has a coil that kicks the ball in play. It has a metal rail the balls are parked in (at an angle so the gravity is forcing the balls to be at their designated spots and lastly, it has 2 small boards, one green (transmitters) and one blue board (receivers) around the metal rails the balls are parked in. Most, (99% of the time), if not all of the problems will be on the green board exclusively.

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On the left, arrow is pointing to the blue board. Each of these boards have 7 optos (6 optos for 6 balls for the game, and 1 opto (named "Top Through" in the switch matrix) that, when the ball is breaking the opto beam, tells the CPU to fire the coil so the ball will be shot up onto the shooter lane. Also note, each board has 1 red LED light. When that light is on, that means the board is getting the voltages needed to operate (the board needs 12 Volts and ground) to operate. As seen in the above picture both boards and their connectors have been hacked previously before they made their way to me, which ic common as well. Weak points in this assembly are, in no particular order: - Connectors - IF red LED is off (no voltages coming to the board), check them first. - Optos themselves - If the opto is dead, the game gets confused and it spits out balls. - Resistors - Big, blue resistors and their solder gets cracked from repeated vibrations. Resoldering it fixes the problem. They will be warm to touch if working correctly. If not, you'll have to replace them. - Board traces - Resistors can get pretty hot and break the traces on the board due to vibrations (balls continuously entering the through and being kicked out of the thorugh). Check for continuity and resolder or use jumpering wires to fix the cracked solder pads problem. Let's move on now and test the whole thing to see if it's working. See below how to do that.

First step is power the game up, lockdown bar off, glass of, all balls out of the game, go to Diagnostics, go to Tests, go to first test called

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SWITCH EDGES.

In Switch Matrix testing the Top Through Opto switch detail... Procedure on how to test it below.

Put balls manually as shown to the ball through. Watch the switch matrix on your games display. As the ball is passing each opto, it should register with a beep and rapidly shown on the screen: Through 6, Through 5, Through 4, Through 3, Through 2, and it should stop at Through 1. Repeat with the 2nd ball, it should stop at Through 2 and so on, until it gets to Through 6 with the last ball. If that happened with your game, everything is working as it should. To test the "Top Through" switch, manually pull the coil kicker up to break the opto beam, it should register Top Through as well. If it all happens, as described, your ball through assembly is working correctly, so enjoy yor game and good bye... But... I said GOOD BYE! If that's not what's happening, then read on.

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See, this is how this stuff works. It is easy to see if any of the optos is dead or faulty. Get a digital camera, or a video camera with small LCD screen. You cannot see those optos glaring with a naked eye. Well, unless you are Clark Kent, that is. These opto transmitters emit IR (Infra Red) light. Camera LCD screen or a view finder CAN see it, Superman can see it, but your eyes can't. See the arrows above? It means, every single opto transmitter has a corresponding receiver on the other side of the rail. That IR light is shining on it continuously. Once the ball is in place, it breaks that beam, and we get a hit, so the machine knows the ball is there. Kind of like your garage door auto opening, or a TV remote control, it's the same principle. If the opto fails, the beam is broken and the game thinks the ball is there and it kicks it out (although it already kicked the previous ball). So now, we got 2 balls on the playfield. Then, next ball rolls over the faulty opto and the game thinks, Oh, the ball is there again, I better kick it out and so on and so on ad infinitum, and bingo, you are scratching your head with the machine shooting these balls out onto the playfield. Wow, honey, cool! I got all these multiballs all the time withouth lifting a finger... The game software is smart enough to recognize the beam being broken, but it stops right there, it does not recognize that it spat out 2 balls on the playfield. We need to correct that and determine what is faulty. First step is clean the transmitter optos with a Q-Tip and some rubbing alcohol. That should help if they are dirty (but working!) and the dirt is blocking the beam. Retest. If the opto is fried and dead, the only way to fix it is to replace it. And that means desoldering and soldering a new part in, no way around it.

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Here is the wide shot of the whole assembly.

Here we see that all 7 transmitters are working and we should not be having any problems whatsoever. Remember, you cannot see this with naked eye, a camera can see it, but you won't be able to, so you need to test it. Once you pinpointed the faulty opto you will need to replace it. If you do not have proper desoldering/soldering equipment, it could be a little tricky and you run the risk of hacking the boards, like the previous "pinball guru fixer" of this machine as seen on the pictures.

IMPORTANT! If ALL of the optos are not working in your game, that is
entirely different problem than dirt on them. It means they are not getting power to them (12 Volts). First guess would be there is a problem on the power driver board, could be a fuse, could be a bridge rectifier and so on...

Here we see the Top Through opto is working (the one on top of the coil kicker, so the coil will shoot the ball onto the playfield when the beam is broken. If top through opto is faulty, this coil will keep kicking and kicking and kicking until Judgment Day, because it thinks there is a ball in there (broken IR beam).

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Close up of optos in action. They all work and glow fine.

If you cannot see all of them, lean down with your camera and look from the bottom.

If that is not possible either, unscrew and take out the transmitter board (3 screws) and take a look that way. While you are at it, check the traces for continuity and check blue resistors carefuly, and look for signs of cracked solder joints and broken pads. Here is an even better way (if you are somewhat technicaly inclined). Testing Ball Through Transmitter Opto board outside of the game

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Suppose you are not able to fix this board while in the game, or you really need it on your bench, or you determined 1 opto transmitter needs replacing, or you want to look at it closer, whatever the reason these things can be tested easily outside of the game. What you need to do it: Digital Camera with LCD screen Outside power supply 2 jumper cables

Here we see an old CD drive. Basicaly, everyone who is messing around electronics around pinball machines on a regular basis could benefit greatly from this in many pinball electronics aplications. Opto boards need only ground and 12 Volts to operate and they don't care where do they get it from, pinball machine or old CD drive. They'll work fine with either. So, if you have an old, junky CD drive, , Microwave oven power supply, Floppy Drive, or a hard drive or your old computer's Power Supply, ANYTHING that has ground, 5 Volts and 12 Volts, you're in business. This is a great way to test and fix your CPU board outside of the game, as described here. In 9.9 out of 10 cases in any of these devices, BLACK wires are ground, RED wires are 5 Volts and YELLOW wires are 12 Volts. Verify with your miltimeter, always. You can use outside power supplies to test many devices in your pinball machines, such as boards, optos, motors for the various playfield devices and so on and so on, highly recommended. All you need to do is strip a bit of insulation, clip your jumper on it and you're in business! Always, and I mean ALWAYS be careful what you are jumpering as you may damage your precious, rare and expensive boards and that's no way to do it. So, don't be a dumbass please, think before you do.

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We hooked it up. You WILL NOT be able to see the optos lit unless you are Clark Kent or Superman. They emit IR (Infra Red) rays and they cannot be seen with a naked eye. But, the camera can and will pick it up! So, look through the LCD screen and you'll see what's up. Here we see that only 3 of 7 optos on this board work - 6 for 6 balls and one for top through (verifying the ball has gone up the shooter lane). The lone Red LED light on this board is on indicating we have good voltages to it (ground and 12 Volts).

Now, we see all 7 of them working fine and giving us a nice, steady glow. What was wrong? Broken traces and big, blue resistors having cracked solder making intermittent contact - the standard culprit in these types of situations.

Now, the arrow is pointing to one particular opto in the middle that
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gave out within minutes. It was a bad opto, jumpers off, desolder it, install new one, solder it in, rejumper the board, power up and it's all good - the replaced one is fine.

Here is another picture with the middle one not working. I should have known, it was an odd looking opto, the others were purpleish and this one was yellow, probably from the old batch, bought a long time ago and unreliable from the beginning.

Here is the board & it's chugging along fine. We left it on overnight to make sure all our soldering, jumpering the traces, doing the resistor pads and so on, held on. It passes the test. Moving on.

Path of Adventure problems

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This is the problem explained: Your Path of Adventure flasher on the right ramp is flashing signaling to get the ball up the ramp. You do it. The ball goes up and stops by the metal bar. The bar goes down and the ball is supposed to roll down onto the mini playfield. Instead, it just rolls off to the left and slides down the metal rails on the left bypassing the Path of Adventure entirely and laughing at you. Look at the above picture carefuly. If that happens to you, look at the arrows. Get the glass off and play the game with your hands. You need a pair of pliers and a pinball to test. You need to bend 2 metal lips the arrows are poiting at OUTWARDS just a little bit giving it more space. Do not go friggin' medieval on them bending them to much, go small, retest and subtly redo it if needed. Test with the ball again until you get it right.

ALSO:
- Make sure the game is leveled right (look at the leg levelers on the floor, measure with inclinometer, it should be zero degrees from left to right and 6.5 degrees from top to bottom). If the game is NOT

leveled correctly (if it's tilted too far to the right), this problem will happen.
- Make sure the metal ramp in the back (with Indy on the Rope Bridge plastic in the front) is screwed in correctly. Check the screws that hold the ramp in place. If it's not screwed and fastened in correctly. (It is screwed in to the backboard where the Lost Plastic is or supposed to be installed) with 3 long and sturdy HEX screws, 2 on top and 1 on the bottom). If one on the bottom is missing (sort of hard to get too, as you need to remove the Jackpot ramp), this problem is likely to occur. Any of these suggestions should solve that problem. Moving on.

Indiana Jones machine specific problem! Shorting the Switch Matrix problem

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This is the Path of Adventure Mini Playfield out of the game. The game itself has a sort of a design flaw. The switch circled in question is so close to the playfield, a strong airball off the posts can touch it, knock it down and short 2 of its leads together shorting the switch matrix and giving you bunch of switch errors. We'll show how to fix that permanently.

This is the underside of the Path of Adventure assembly taken out of the game.

This is the switch in question, close-up shot.

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This is another close up shot of it. The problem is when the non banded side of the diode soldered on a lug gets hammered by an airball, bends and touches the ground lug, effectively shorting the switch matrix and confusing the CPU immensely. This problem is most evident when you go into Switch Matrix diagnostics, manualy trigger this switch and have 3 or 4 others register as well. Let's see how to fix it.

Snip the banded side of the diode lug off the switch as shown.

Here it is in a closeup picture when you snip that side off.

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This is the small piece of heat shrink tube. What the hell is that? Well, it's a tube that shrinks when heat is applied to it... Wow, I learn something new just about every day. And the name makes sense too!

Use small heat shrink tube on all 3 lugs covering all the metal. The idea behind the fix is it will act as electrical isolation between the lugs, so even if they do touch sometime in the future they won't be shorting each other and you can resume normal play.

This is the picture of the fix from another perspective.

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Now, solder it back on as shown above. Done.

Here we see what it looks like installed back into the game. Notice how the switch is REALY close to the playfield. This way, if airballs do occur again by bouncing off those yellow rubber posts (and they might, especialy if you rebuilt or have already strong flippers), heat shrink will prevent the short. Moving on onto the intermittent working of Path of Adventure Mini Playfield.

Does your Mini Playfield work sporadically, or moves very fast in one direction and slow in the other, or moves in very slow increments (kinda like stop and go or "stutters"), not working at all, or not tilting to your liking, or just not working right? If you have any of these problems, here is a rundown: Arrow 1 in the picture - This is a 2 Opto board that senses where
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the mini playfield is. 1 Opto is for right movement, other is for the left. Clean them up with Q-Tips and alcohol, they can get dirty. Test them for proper working. Arrow 2 in the picture - This is the metal protrusion from the motor that breaks the opto beam. Works just like any other opto interrupter, no surprises here. Make sure it's not bent and it's clearning the optos dead on in the middle. Arrow 3 in the picture - This is a small HEX screw mounted on the opto interrupter that secures it in place on the motor shaft. Make sure it's not loose but DO NOT overtighten and go medieval on it. Securely tight, but not brutal, there is a fine balance. If this thing has never been taken off and unscrewed ever since the game was made it might be rusted inside and stuck. You might be likely SOL then if you need to replace the motor assembly. Arrow 4 in the picture - This is the metal shaft protruding from behind the playfield mounted on the motor powering the Path of Adventure Opto interrupter is mounted on it. If the motor is making squealing noises or it makes noises regularly between revolutions, one of the gears powering it might be stripped, notched, or chipped. The only solution is to buy a new motor and reinstall it, 70$.

Does your Path of Adventure Mini Playfield stutter (works slow in the game), but it's rock solid when running Path of Adventure diagnostics tests? The problem is with your flipper optos, they are dirty and/or malfunctioning. the reason the game is fine in diagnostics is because you are using 4 buttons inside the coin door to steer it, not flipper buttons like in the real game. Also, flipper opto boards have 2 optos mounted on them. 1 of them is used for flippers and another one is used for entering initials and high scores at the end, playing video modes, or in this case steering Path of Adventure. Here is a simple test. Is your mini playfield stuttering on the right side? Switch the flipper opto boards from left to right side inside the cabinet and try again. Did the problem move to the other side? That is a sure sign your flipper optos need attention.

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You will find them inside the cabinet, opposite side of the flipper buttons you are pressing. You'll have to remove the glass, empty the balls, raise the playfield, secure it and then you will get to them.

Here is a rundown on how flippers work: Arrow 1 - This is the flipper button you press with your fingers when playing, seen inside the cabinet, opposite side. Arrows 2 - This is the plastic fliper opto interrupter. Flipper button when pressed pushes it out, breaking the opto beam and the flipper flips. Arrow 3 - This is the flipper opto board Arrow 4 - This is the opto1 and below it is opto 2. You might get lucky and the opto transmiter is just dirty and dirt is blocking the light beam. Clean it up with Q Top and alcohol and try again. If it's fine, good, if not, you will need to test the opto in the Switch Matrix Switch Edges test to determine which one of them is faulty. Then, you need to replace it.

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Well, here you go then, you got yourself a bulletproof switch covered up and it will withstand the airballs, even if switch legs get bent, they won't touch each other confusing and shorting the switch matrix and you fixed al this other stuff. Life is good, man. End of Path of Adventure problems.

Idol Assembly problems


If you have problems with the Idol, that means you have a Mayan curse. What did you expect, dude? Those ruins are thousands of years old and you got an ancient curse on them! Well, actualy, it's the optos again. In rare cases it's the motor, as well (not often, but it COULD happen).

Here are some tools to use if you need to take the Idol asembly out of the game. I am not entirely sure what these things are called, "Nut HEX drivers", curved HEX drivers, whatever they are. If you have trouble finding them, they should be in any hardware store, Home Depot, etc...

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Here is Golden Idol with a freaky eyes design (one face has both eyes open, one has 1 open and one closed, like the Idol is winking at you, oh that good, ole Idol...), and the last one has them both closed, like he's taking a nap. Speaking about naps, I'll be back in an hour or so...

Okay, I'm back. If your Indiana Jones pinball is experiencing problems with the Idol, locking the balls and releasing them, as well as taking the whole thing apart for troubleshooting and cleaning, this pictorial is exactly what you need.

Detail. The paddle ball release mechanism in the foreground.

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Fitting the ball to be locked. Note the opto pair of switches on the sides.

Follow the arrow to take off the Golden Idol. It's a little tricky.

Stick your HEX wrench in there and carefully try to move it left and right.

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The space is tight.

This particular space and angle illustrates why it's difficult to get to this particular spot. It's tightly spaced, crammed with stuff, tiny and visually obstructed by almost everything around it.

Let's see what to do next. Let's take off the ball release paddle device.

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Go under the playfield, get working on the hex screws.

Almost there.

Now, the paddle is out. If you are still having a problem with taking the Idol off, go ahead and revisit. You'll have less awkwardness and a bit more space to work with. I usualy take the Idol off when I refurbish this title so I can repaint it with more gold accepted colors, as a mod. To see what that looks like, click here.

Explaining Golden Idol locking procedure Step-By-Step

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Here is exactly what's going on. if any of these steps fail, (mainly switches, mainly optos), you will have problems and the machines won't work correctly. Here is exactly how machine works, senses the ball and does its business, so you can compare it to yours and hopefuly discover problems that need to be addressed. Step 1 - You knock down 3 drop targets (E-N-T in ADVENTURE) and shoot the ball into Lock balls scoop. The ball goes down into this hole. Step 2 - Due to gravity (and machine being at 6.5 degrees slope, our pinball arrives at the arrow numer 2. It is read by an opto switch there. Step 3 - Pinball travels down towards the Idol upkicker following arrow 3 Step 4 - It is read by an Opto here, it passes the opto. Arrives at the scoop. Step 5 - Opto mounted on top of vertical upkicker coil receives the ball. Opto beam closes. Step 6 - Coil senses the ball has landed (opto is closed now) and CPU instructs the coil to fire. When that happens, coil kicks the ball up and the ball appears on the playfield, right behind the Golden Idol.

Here we are on the right side by the coil and its opto.

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Detail of the previous opto in the Lock chain. Ball needs to be sensed every step of the way, so the CPU knows at any given moment where the ball is. As our sense of smell, vision, hearing etc... is used by us to effectively exist and sense and do things, so are the switches in the game being equivalent to this. They give the game brain (CPU) information needed. Switches are eyes and ears of the machine.

While we are here... If this coil constantly fires over and over and over upon powering up the game and it just won't shut up, 99% of the case, its opto transmitter is faulty or dirty. Clean it or replace it to fix things around here.

Back to our pinball travel. So, now after the ball has been kicked up, it appears on the top and is visible. It then passes this last opto and is effectively inside the Idol. This last opto signals CPU to crank the
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motor up. How does the machine keep count how many balls have been locked? It uses (SURPRISE!) 3 more optos mounted underneath. We'll show them a bit later and in a technical video below these pictures.

When all 3 pinballs are locked, these same optos tell that to CPU and we are kicked into multiball. CPU plays the Opening animation with a rolling boulder chasing Indy and the Idol releases al 3 balls by dumping them towards the flippers. This yellow plastic gate (this breaks often by the way, but replacements are available) kicks down and the balls are released 1 by 1.

The last switch in chain telling the CPU how many balls are released. See, if THIS switch is broken, the Idol will spin and spin and spin "releasing" the balls from the Idol although there may be nothing there anymore. So, it's all connected, man, and everyting needs to be addressed. That's what good diagnostics and refurbishing is all about. Many times people that own machines but don't know how to fix them will email me or call and say - Dude, my machine is possesed! Seriously! It's gone mad! It keeps doing this and that over and over and over... It's not possesed, it's doing what it's designed to do, the cure to all those "demons" is fixing switches and the game will be healthy.

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Your Idol motor is not working? Check these 2 wires first, they often fall off. If not, follow them to a small motor driver board. Check this board and check its TIP transistor with a multimeter. If out of specs, replace it, solder in a new one and retest.

Your Idol is failing the IDOL TEST in diagnostics? Giving you IDOL BAD. CHK IDOL problem? Not a problem. Take the whole thing out (NOTE: Scroll up to see how to remove the top part of the Idol first. Dive in and start taking it off.

I believe there is 4 screws to take off, then slide it out. This will expose 3 optos underneath. Number of optos is 3, counting 3 balls - get it, now that's how the machine knows how many balls are locked.

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One more screw to go and the Idol assembly should be out.

Remember, to get the Idol out you need to remove the Top Golden part first.

O=Here is the stupid thing out of the game.

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And finaly we are getting to the meat and potatoes.

Here are the 3 optos counting the balls. The assembly is filthy, so clean up everything, then test, retest, make sure everything works fine, put back together, screw it back in and enjoy your game.

One more screw to go and the Idol assembly should be out. Now, go down and watch the videos and read the video caption, and you should be up and running in no time with all kinds of stuff.

Technical

videos

demonstrating

problems

and
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solutions! Technical Video 1 - Here we see how the Idol actualy works. It has 3 optos underneath and a small circular plastic with wedges in it breaking the opto beams as it moves and then counting the balls (software does that). Ball 1 locked, ball 2 locked, ball 3 locked, release all 3 and start multiball.
If any of these 3 optos is not working, the Idol will be confused and the game will flag it as bad and it will not pass the "Idol test". Here we show it in Switch edges test. Notice if we break the beam with Q Tip when it's not supposed to be broken, the game immediately whines and complains how the Idol lock is bad and it has an error, yada, yada, yada. So, what you need to do to fix this problem is this: cleaning the optos with Q-Tip and alcohol is your first step. Then, if that fails, take the digital camera and look at the optos and make sure all 3 are glowing. If one of them is dead, you will have to replace it to restore order to the Idol assembly and bring peace to the galaxy. (Requires Apple QuickTime)

Technical Video 2 - Testing the Ball Through Assembly by dumping pinballs in and watching what's happenin' in Switch Edges mode then looking at the screen. They all have to work. If they don't, well you're SOL... Just joking. Scroll up to Ball Through fixing section. (Requires Apple QuickTime) Technical Video 3 - Testing the playfield switches manualy in Switch Edges test. Making sure they all work properly. Also, use a pinball when testing them (to simulate real game as close as possible). (Requires Apple QuickTime)

Opto board revisited. Hey, I had a few more of these pictures, so I gotta kill them (use them somewhere). Another hacked opto board here.

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Opto board, cracked resistors, resoldering will solve many problems to this board and ball through. Moving on.

Other

smaller

problems

not

covered

above

Problems with 3-Bank Opto drop target assembly

To test drop down target 3 Bank assembly make sure they are in raised position (3 targets just before locking ball chute. Go to TESTS in Diagnostics.

Then, go to TESTS submenu called Switch Edges, the first one.

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Manualy flick the targets and see if they register in switch matrix. If they do, fine. If not, raise the playfield and look underneath.

Look underneath the playfield. Targets assembly has 3 optos on them. Clean with Q Tip and alcohol and retest them. Do they work now? If not, read on.

Also check, springs (fallen off?) and it is quite common for gunk and dirt to build up around targets (Look for signs like, is the target slow to drop down?). In that case a dissasembly and good cleaning is warranted.

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That's about it. Also, check the connector and wires the arrows are pointing to as well as solder on the male connector soldered on the board for cracks.

More other problems...

Umm, my playfield glass is really dusty. - Yeah, just like that


above, how did you know! Well, get some Windex and paper towels and clean it up on both sides you lazy bastard. That'll fix your "problem".

A couple (or one particular bulb) of light bulbs are not working First, check the bulb itself, it's a light bulb, they burn over time. If not

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the bulb, check the bulb holder. If not the bulb holder, check the connectors. If not the connectors, check the wiring, one wire may have fallen off. If not the wires, check the soldering on connectors, like above, they tend to crack over time, then resolder if needed. If not the cracked solder, then check the bulb row driving transistor with a multimeter in the backbox. If not the driving transistor, check the bulb diode. If not the diode, it's further upstream on the power driver board (chip driving the transistors). You need a Logic Probe for that. So, all about light bulb problems you EVER need to know in ife is covered right above int hat one long sentence.

Clean Mode Start shot always rattles out, never makes it to the saucer - Fairly common problem on this game. Some tweaking and
experimentation is needed. Things to look into: the red saucer the ball lands into might be chiped/cracked and needs replacing (4$ part). Or, try bending the metal deflector piece carefully closer to the playfield. Scenario/Problem 2 - When you make a clean shot straight into the saucer and the ball just bounces out immediately. Try this - use a small piece of weather stripping tape/foam and put it under the metal deflector. That should soften the impact and solve your problem. If not... Cut another small piece of striping tape/foam and put in on the left metal rail immediately to the left of the scoop where the arrow is pointing. Again, experiment with any of these.

My Path of Adventure when titled to the right in play touches and grinds on Biplane ramp. - this is a mechanical problem and
needs just a little adjustment. Path of Adventure is supposed to tilt to the right and have just "a hair" of space between itself and the ramp. You need to bend the spacer a little bit, adjust and experiment. One side of the spacer is screwed onto the first I-N-D-Y lane guide as shown.

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The other side is screwed onto the ramp by a HEX screw. There is some room there to work with and move the rampa little bit to the right giving the mini playfield more space.

Technical Video 1 - Here is the video showing the gap between Path of Adventure and the Biplane ramp and what is going on.. (Requires Apple QuickTime)

If you have any questions, please email us and we'll try to help you. Remember to do all these steps safely and frequently check and recheck your work. Get out of here now and play some pinball... TXPinball.com Back 2 top of page Back 2 Refurbishing tips
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