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Welcome to the VX800 web site
VX800 doing bicyle race duties - here

faq
2 May: Neil vists Brian - here

workshop
16 Apr: Tom B's VX800 doing bicycle race duties - here

Specifications
16 Apr: Steven Smith's new Bandit - here and here

bits and pieces club tools rally reports pictures fiche workshop manual owners manual other links Rallies 2003 other bikes
16 Apr: VX800 as a trike - here 4 Apr: Driven joint description from Ko - here 2 Feb: Largest ever VX800 meeting - here 1 Jan 2005: Owners Manual - here 19 Dec: Fowlers pictures of a Sachs B805 - here 13 Dec: Jim Gallant's new paint job - here 10 Nov: Bob's quads on a VX - here 6 Nov: Brian's VX's #11 and #12 - here 6 Nov: Brians VX's #6 and #7 - here 6 Nov: Trip through Oregon - Snake River - here 6 Nov: Trip through Oregaon - Clearlake - here
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VX800.NET
6 July: RTFM Rally in England - here 7 June: Lisa Kruger's new VX - here 2 June: Steven Smith's pictures from TWO 2004 - here 10 May: Check the Clutch Bracket - here 5 May: Info about bolts - here 4 May: UK Rally pages updated - here 4 May: A younger still VXer - here 1 May: Brian's comuter VX800 - here 25 April: Our youngest VXer, Bobby Fillippini - here 19 Nov: JD_Witney clutch bracket from Ernst - here 15 Nov: Bruce Bacon's VX800 - here 15 Nov: Chris Etz pictures on the OEM rack support - here 28th Oct: VX800 engine laid out - here 28th Oct: More VX pictures - here 28th Oct: Tinbasher handlebar clamp - here 25th Oct: Harold does headbearings - here 25th Oct: VX800 list moved to new ISP 15th Oct: Mid Atlantic rally pictures - here 8 Oct: HaJe's pictures - including movie clips - here 5 Oct: Steve's Dutch rally pictures - here
VX800.NET
1 Oct: Brian's VX800 #1 - here 1 Oct: Brian's VX800 #7 - here 30 Sept: Brian's clock - here 18 Sept: Bob Fillippini's clock - here 16 Sept: Fitting instructions for the vacuum petcock added to the Workshop section - here 13 Sept: Hiroyuki Takeuchi`s bike with the Tinbasher brace using the OEM Allen head screws - here 12 Sept: Jos Humphrey's pictures added - here 11 Sept: Jos on VX800 and OT on VX750 - here 07 Sept: VX800 Specifications add to the left hand side bar - also here 06 Sept: Scott Bogue's bar end mirrors and tractor lights - here 08 Aug: Steve Bell's website added to Member's sites - here 08 Aug: Steven Smith's site added to Member's sites - here 03 July: Andre with son Stejn on 1996 VX800 - here 03 July: Bobbin for TopBox - here 16 June: PD Howard's VX800 - here 15 June: Bob's polished rack - here 15 June: Scott's tales of SRII - here 15 June: and Charlie gives his version - here 11 June: Scott's TWO pictures - here
VX800.NET
11 June: Sandy's VX for Sale - here 30 May: Vintage Bike Show - here 30 May: Spud Run 2 - Pictures here 30 May: Spud Run 2 - story here 20 April: Rally in Yorkshire, UK, 2002 - here 6 April: Bob Voegele at Daytona now with pictures - here 18 March: Mitch's VX800 for sale - here 17 March: Bob Voegele at Daytona - here 9 March: Short MCN (UK) Test from June 1990 - here 4 March: Todd's VX - here 1 March: Brian's VX on lift - here 27 February: Spud run details - here 26 February: Updated the Rallies links 26 February: Henk's Sept 2002 Yorkshire rally pictures - here 26 February: Pamela Anderson modelling Duncan's fork guards here 23 February: Kevin Gaddes VX800 - here 22 February: mm to inch to mm conversion chart - here 22 February: Mike Remboldts Purple Monster with Hannigan Fairing - here 29 January: JF's VX800 - look for OEM sport rack, belly pan, exhaust
VX800.NET
- here and here 11 January: Brian buys a lathe - here 04 January: Extra pictures of TWO from Brian - here 03 January 2003: Dave Martyn's VX - here 29 December: Pictures of other bikes added - here 01 December: Fred H Mid-Atlantic Pictures -here 16 November: Tom's Mid Atlantic pictures - here 15 November: Brian goes on Suzuki Owners Rally - here 15 November: Brian went to a Vintage Fair - here 15 November : Scott Bogue's pictures from the Mid Atlantic Ride here 12 November : 4 Australian VXers - here 11 November : Italy rally details - here 03 November : New links to the Workshop Manual : - here 30 September: Henk's pictures from the Yorkshire rally - here 21 September: Richard made some headlight hangers in stainless steel - here 17 September: Steve Bell's account of the rally in Yorkshire, UK here 28 August: Lyle has fitted Dyna coils with good results - here 27 August: Richard has had problem see how he fixed it - here 23 August: Chris Etz got together info on the tools needed for the
VX800.NET
VX800 - here 18August: Had a ride out to Dover Castle - here 14 August: EU rally, Yorkshire Dales (UK) - here 14 August: A Russian VX er's day out - here 22 July: Ricks made a flyscreen - what do you think? - here and here 15 July: Belgian Rally reports - here 13th July: Chris Etz fixed his rectifier with a Electrex replacement see the story here 23rd Jun: Eu list back 17th Jun: Eu list down until 20th -due to Smartgroups problem 15 Jun: Mike Percilick's Candy - here 5 Jun: Bruce Bacon's Spud Run Report - here 4 Jun: Paul Fox's TWO picture - here 3 Jun: TWO - Scott's report - here 3 Jun: Richard's VX with MK 2 stainless header tank - here and here 3 Jun: Rick S 's Marcus Dairy pics - here 31 May: Bruce's Spud Run in Idaho - here 27 May: Rides round Georgia - here 27 May: Ricks's Vanilla Bean Pictures - here 27 May: Scott's Vanilla Bean Pictures - here 27 May: VX800 For Sale (US) - here
VX800.NET
27 May: TWO - Bill Lawrence's photos - here 27 May: TWO - Jim Jensen's photos - here 23 May: TWO - Now I liked this town :))))))) wont tell you where in the US 23 May: TWO - Jim Harrison here 23 May: TWO - Mountain man here, and his VX800 with 1 weeks luggage, here 23 May: TWO - GT, is he awake? here 23 May: TWO - Steve Bowen here 23 May: TWO - Paul Fox, here , and his wife Julia, here 04 May: Close up of Corbin on VX - click here 04 May: Andre's GL1000 in 1978 - click here 04 May: Belgian VX at an Englishman's house - click here 04 May: 3 Dutch VX800's - click here 04 May: Rally ride in the Vosges, France in 2001 - click here 03 May: Brake maintenance by Chris Etz - click here 29 Apr: Sach Roadster LTD - click here 29 Apr: Sachs Roadster - the VX800 engined classic - here 29 Apr: Link for UK Motorcycle News - here 29 Apr: Link for UK Bikers - here 17 Apr: Instructions for Carb balancing - click here
VX800.NET
15 Apr: Search the EU list archives by keyword - click here 14 Apr: David Martin found a sales brochure for the '93 VX800 - click here 14 Apr: Tinbasher's workaround for worn centrestand pivot - click here 14 Apr: Tinbasher's slave tank setup: click here 14 Apr: Ken Owensby's re build VX800 - click here 14 Apr: Ken Owensby's new Triumph Sprint ST - click here 3 Apr: Rick Schott's VX - just resprayed - click here 1 Apr: Wim and Hanny have a new VX800 - click here 31 Mar: Mitch's gorgeous looking black VX800 - click here 30 Mar: David Martin's trip - the final episode added - click here 30 Mar: Bruce Hastings and Tinbasher: - click here 29 Mar: US shirt and mug site: - click here 29 Mar: Updated details for Bruce's spud run - click here 26 Mar: Greg 1996 VX800 - click here 26 Mar: Mike Weaver does Deals Gap: - click here 26 Mar: Australian Lady buys VX800 - click here 26 Mar: Link to Corbin VX800 page - click here 26 Mar: Review between VX800 and Kawasaki GT550 - click here 26 Mar: Peter's VX800 with Travelcade seat - click here
VX800.NET
25 Mar: VX800 as cop bike - click here 24 Mar: David Martin's trip in Australia - click here 21 Mar: Henk's first ride on the VX in 2000 - click here 16 Mar: Stripping forks - click here 15 Mar: The Purple Idea by Flaviano - click here 15 Mar: Brians VX in the dark - click here 14 Mar: Collected VX800 reviews - click here 13 Mar: GT's VX800 at TWO - click here 12 Mar: Dennis Bigham's VX800 with Buell Blast flyscreen - click here 10 Mar: In memory of Windy, picture from rally in 2000 - click here 09 Mar: Andr's VX800 in Blue and White Pearl - click here 09 Mar: Richard's (Tinbasher) pictures including stainless header tank - click here 09 Mar: Richard's (Tinbasher) site added - click here 08 Mar: Samples of the VX800 mugs - click here 07 Mar: Pictures of Terry Gittoes VX800 - novel features - click here 07 Mar: Tools section updated - click here 07 Mar: Fork tool has arrived - click here 03 Mar: Brian's VX showing gap between headlamp and screen to stop buffeting - click here
VX800.NET
03 Mar: Brian's ride out - click here 28 Feb: Used VX test - click here 25 Feb: Terry Blair Fork Drain modification - click here 23 Feb: Brian is planning to make a new VX from 3 old see here 23 Feb: Photos of Peter's silver VX - gorgeous paintwork!! - click here 18 Feb: Steenokkerzeel Rally details updated - click here 18 Feb: Eric Johnson's VX800 with Air Hawk fairing - click here 18 Feb: Pictures from Brian's family album - 1940's - click here 15 Feb: UK government minister tries to ban bikes - click here 15 Feb: The head bearing toolset - click here Bill Lawrence's VX800 and Rifle fairing click here Sunday 10 Feb: I went up to see Steve Bell to pick up the last parts of Richards VX800 that had been broken. Had a great day out doing about 490 miles round trip. To see the pictures click here
Workshop
Workshop Items (see also the FAQ)

q
bolt information Regulator Chris ETz Brake rebuild chris etz OEM rack supports vacuum petcock fitting instructions Front Suspension Stripping the forks Fitting new Clutch Plates Fairings for the VX Specifications Reviews (Both good and Bad) Torque Charts Service Data Electrical System Headlights Dyno Rolling Road Data Polishing The VX Oil Filters Oil
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Workshop
Oil additives Paint Fitting a BSM exhaust VX 'Driven Joint' Problem BHP Chart with various Carb settings Torque Chart with the same various Carb Settings Terry Blair Fork Drain Plug MM to inch to mm conversion chart
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Bolt Size mm
Bolt Size mm 3 4 5 6 8 10
Pitch mm 0.5 0.7 0.8 1 1.25 1.25
Tapping drill mm 2.65 3.5 4.5 5.3 7.1 8.5
Size across hex 5.5 7 8 10 12 14/17
These sizes apply to the VX800 nuts and bolts
http://vx800.net/workshop/bolt_size_mm.htm7/23/2005 12:11:07 PM
VX Rack Support
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VX Rack Support
VX Rack Support
Under the seat without the braces fitted...
VX Rack Support
....and with the brace about to be put on it's spot.
VX Rack Support
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The VX800 - Forks
Courstesy of Steve Bell

A few weeks after putting the Tempest Fairing on the VX - I noticed that the front forks had a lot more oil on them than is normal. When I bought the bike it was obvious the seals were worn,but now it was very bad. I had already change the fork Oil to 15 weight when I serviced the bike and perhaps that didn't help. I decided to change the seals. Easy.
I refered to the FAQ and also posted a message on the EU mailing list - the replies are below and I followed the advice given. The task was fairly straight forward and without any great problems. I did make my own tool for holding the dampner rod. Its a Spark plug socket made out of mild steel. It fit well into a 24mm socket. 2 long extentions for the socket made splitting the fork easy. Whilst I had the bike in bits I also decided to put ProgressiveSprings in. WOW ! The difference is great. The handling far more positive. Shortly after fitting the new springs I went for run out with Alison,my wife, on pillion. We did open and twisty roads in and around York, North Yorkshire. The VX held its line a lot more and the front forks did not 'bottom out' everytime I hit a small hole in the road. Banking the bike around tight corners was also a lot less nerve racking. Town centre riding was much the same as with stock springs If anyone is thinking about changing the stock springs for Progresives - My advice is do it, and do it now. I got the springs from M&P for 40. Photographs: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. Start here Problem! The Fairing gives poor access to the clamp bolts Wheel removed Support the bike with a diamond Jack and the brake caliper with string Tool to remove Dampening Rod (1) Tool to remove Dampening Rod (2) Tool to help remove Dampening Rod (Paul Fox) Compare stock springs to the longer Progressive Springs Cut the Stock spacers to fit Fork Componants (1) Fork Componants (2) Fork Componants (3) - Service Data All done..bike ready for a test ride
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The VX800 - Forks
Steve Feb 2000
From: "Ulf Bjarke" Via Ben Ros Hi all Vixers, Managing to adjust the valves made my confidense grow, so I was ready for "manhood trial 2, the ultimate challange" namely fork seal replacement. I know this is a favourite topic at this list and it has been penetrated from all angles by previous posters. But this is list is like a soap TV series anyway so here comes another episode... I won't cover all steps because I think there are good instructions posted earlier (in FAQ?), but more highlight the difficult parts. Items needed + normal handtools. 1: Torque wrench, a must for the pro ;-) , helps a lot. 2: Suzuki service manual, also a must. Don't trust non factory ones, the OEM Suzuki is the best by far. 3: Fork oil #10 4: Special tool, se text below 5: New oil seals (2) Special tool: The only special in this operation is to access the large "socket" inside the bottom of the fork. I know there are "clever" ways e.g. using a broom stick, but this didn't work at all in my case. The tool we need is easy manufactured: Go to a h/w store and by a M16 bolt (which will have a 24mm head which fits nicely into the socket) you US guys are going metric, are you not? Also get a approx. 500mm heavy rod of that can be welded to the threaded end of the bolt. Weld these together and make a handle on the other end of the rod. With this tool everything can by dissasembled easy. The next "tricky" part was getting the antifriction metal ring that fits the lower/not moving part of the fork leg back after the dissasembly . If you can get hold of a plastic tube (plumbing or sim) that slides on the fork this is easy but I didn't have access to one. After lubing the ring with fork oil I tapped it gently in place using a large screwdriver/hammer with the oil seal retainer (large steel washer) as a guard. Be gentle and observe the split in the metal ring so it seats symetrically. Now its time for the oil seal, lube it and tap with the large screwdriver/hammer on the outermost part of the seal which is solid. Takes patience and and a lot of checking.
The VX800 - Forks
I have bought 2 new seals but before I put them in..has anyone any advice on the best way to do it ? I also got my local dealer to use his air driven hammer drill to undo the bolts in the bottom of the forks. They are a pain to undo any other way. Took 20 seconds to do both. No charge as I bought the parts off him to do the job. I took the forks back there to have them tightened as well, and gave the mechanic a couple of quid for his help. When I dismantled the front folks on my ZR550 (before the VX, and very similar to the VX as I later discovered) I found that the bolt in the bottom of one folk leg was not fully screwed in, because the copper washer had twisted when it had been assembled. This was either done by a previous owner or it might even have happened in the factory. This had allowed the folk oil on that side to leak out into the wheel bearing. Naturally the handling had suffered, but at least the wheel bearing is well oiled!!! The bike had only 6,300 miles on it and the folk oil seals had already been replaced (badly) by a previous owner. So my tip is when you have reassembled the forks, leave them overnight standing upright on some newspaper to make sure that they do not leak from the bolt in the bottom. The copper washers are the same size as brake hose washers, so any dealers should have some lying around. I also polished the fork legs that the seals move up and down against with very fine wet and dry (1600 grade I think) and lots of water to get rid of any lips where there were stone had caused chips. I don't know what to do about the small dents still left on the forks, hopefully the seals just glide across them. Hope this helps. Tony
I have had the forks apart recently, and I remember no valves but there were these little holes in the centre rod, called the damper. It is the oil squeezing both ways through these holes that create the damping effect. In my forks I have 10 grade oil, and they work fine. Steve has 15 grade oil in his forks and he says they are hard. 40 grade oil would hardly move through the holes, therefore making the forks very stiff. IMHO the original 10 grade oil does the damping job very well. However if the springs are too soft by moving a long way with a small bump, then the answer is progressive springs which also give the effect of damping. The progressive springs are multi-rate springs, soft under low compression (like small ripples in the road), hard under high compression (like braking). There is nothing wrong with 40 grade oil, it will work maybe, but you will increase the chance of blowing the oil seals. If the oil cannot go through the holes quick enough then it will look for somewhere else to go. The only place left is up through the oil seals. As oil gets thicker in cold temperature you might have been looking for 5 grade oil in the cold Norwegian weather.
The VX800 - Forks
Brian UK
Remember to loosen the upper nuts before you take off the legs(don't take them off). It's best to use an air driven wrench to loosen the bolt under the fork. And DON'T use that tool when you fasten it cause it might be to tuff . only use hand power. well after taking out the bottom screw, take off the nut and have the oil in a pan. Remove the spacer, spring and fork leg. Loosen the ring that hold the seal with a small small screwdriver and take away that ring under. If you take a quite screwdriver and use that bench tool (don't know the English name) that spins fast round and have two stones on each side you could make a tool to take off the old seals, just bend it out use a thin wooden pin between the screwdriver and the fork. . Be careful so you don't get marks in the aluminum.. When fitting, first reconnect the leg , and thighten the bottom screw . Have help from a friend and let him drag out the leg when you're thighting the screw. Find a tube that is a Little bit wider then the fork leg and cut it(straight clean cut!) app. 3"(10 cm) . Use that as a sledge to hammer the new ring in its place. sorry bout my English j.troli
VX800 Web Pages - Tempest Fairings
Rickman Tempest Fairing
http://vx800.net/fairings/tempest.htm (1 of 3)7/23/2005 12:11:16 PM
Lower Fixing Bracket (1)
Click on the photographs for full size images.
Head Stock Bracket
Fitting: I bought the Rickman Tempest Fairing from a Breakers yard for 30. There were no brackets at all and the wind screen was broken. The fairing itself was also split in two areas near to the lower fixing mount holes. Brian Squibb supplied me with both an undamaged windscreen and the upper fixing head stock bracket.(cost = postage)(Brian is my Hero !) First job was to repair the fairing. I did this with bridging filler (normal car filler with fiber glass mixed in) and smooth top coat filler. The Fairing was then sent off for a respray. The painter colour matched the fairing to the VX and did a blooming good job. (Cost =50)
I then bought some 25mm x 5mm flat bar stock and made up the bottom bracket. This was done by simply cutting a length of bar stock to stretch from one side of the lower fairing to the other. And a second length of bar stock so it was went for the width of the radiator and 30mm either side. I then bolted the two lengths together and drilled 2 holes in the fairing and fixed the whole lot together with bolts. (I have since changed the bolts in the photograph to 7mm diameter stainless steel button bolts.) (Cost = 1 for the bar stock and 6 for the bolts/washers/lock nuts.) Indicators came from a local motorcycle shop. (Cost 10) Mirrors came from M&P,Cleckheaton. They provide superb visibility, but overhang the end of the handle bars by about 30mm either side. (Cost 30 for the pair). The fairing is mounted using rubber tap washers (cost 10p each). -------------------
I did a 150 mile motorway run on the bike and found that the fairing and bike are stable right up to my 'bottle out' speed of 105 miles per hour. When I hit a line of standing motorway traffic ( due to roadwork's) I found it very easy to nip in and out of the cages with ease. I did have to be aware of the 5cm (2") or so that the mirrors add to the width of the bike though. Wind buffeting all but disappears after 75 miles per hour. A big Big BIG improvement on the naked VX. Vibration is present but not enough to make the mirrors unusable at speed. What I will certainly need to do is take out the stock springs and replace them with Progressives as soon as possible. I did not like the way the VX behaved on a fast, tight bend. I got a most definite 'twitch' when the bike was at about 45. One thing I did like more than anything - The sound of the engine at 5000 revs when travelling along the motorway with my head dipped down below the screen :-)
(Little things please little minds)
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VX800.NET
FAQ Search
VX800 FAQ
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1. Introduction/Meta-info 2. Overview of the VX 3. Variations 4. Specifications 5. Engine 6. Electrical 7. Suspension 8. Chassis 9. Comfort 10. Maintenance Procedures 11. Torque Specifications 12. Other Resources 13. FAQ Changes
EDITOR: Tom Balaban

ID: VX800_FAQ.html, v2.03, 22 March 2001
This document summarizes some common answers to questions about the Suzuki VX800 motorcycle. Originally developed by Paul Fox, editorial responsibility was assumed by Tom Balaban on 1 January 2000. The editor extends the thanks of the entire VX800 community to Paul for the creation of this invaluable resource. Any party interested in assuming the editorial responsibility for this document should contact Tom. The HTML version of the FAQ is available at http://pws. prserv.net/compoundsolutions/VXFAQ/vx800_FAQ. html. The FAQ in TEXT is available at http://pws.prserv.net/ compoundsolutions/VXFAQ/vx800_FAQ.txt. To see a list of changes made to the FAQ, see Section 13.
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Stripping Forks
Stripping Forks
In order to replace the fork seals it is necessary to strip the forks. This is a very straightforward job. I believe this is well within the capabilities of the average home mechanic. Only 1 special tool is required - and this is available through our tool sharing scheme.
This section describes how to strip the forks once they are off the bike. To get to this stage it is only necessary to remove the front wheel and brake caliper before undoing the bolts on the yokes so the forks can be dropped out. This procedure is explained on pages 810 and 8-11 of the workshop manual. So onwards: First step is to remove the front fork cap bolt. I have found it easier throughout the stripping process to hold the BOTTOM leg of the fork in a vice for support.
Forks in vice - note cloth to stop scratches
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Stripping Forks
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE VICE - it will damage the leg. The bolt is a 19mm but I find 20mm fits better on bolts that have been taken off a few times
Taking off the bolt When the bolt is undone, the fork spring will push it off, showing the spacer inside
Spacer appears after undoing bolt Next -->
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Stripping Forks
Stripping Forks - 2
Having undone the fork cap bolt we now need to take the insides of the fork - the spacer, spring seat (like a washer) and the fork spring. Now all these pieces are covered in fork oil so makes sense to take precautions to stop this horrible stuff going everywhere. To catch the drips I put down a cloth on the floor around the bench where the fork is held in the vice. As I pull the bits out I hold a cloth around the fork, wiping them clean as they come out
Wiping spring with cloth to stop oil dripping The next task is to undo the remove the damper rod, but before we do this lets tip out the remainder of the oil left in the fork else it will make a big mess on the floor. So take the fork out of the vice and tip the oil away.
Tip the oil into a can for disposal later
This is what bad fork oil looks like:
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Stripping Forks
Oil is grey and white and smells like a skunk having a bad day <-- Back Next -->
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Your Heading Goes Here
Stripping Forks - 3
So the forks have been emptied of oil, so lets get down to pulling them apart. The top and bottom of fork are held together with a 8mm allen head bolt screwed from the bottom of the leg into the damper rod in the top.
See the bolt in the bottom leg? Put the forks back in the vice and lets undo them. In the bottom leg goes the allen key
Allen key located - tip, a little grease on the end keeps it there without holding it And in the top goes the special tool. Just feel it into the socket in the damper rod, it goes in easily
Locate adaptor in damper <-- Back Next -->

Your Heading Goes Here
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Stripping Forks
Stripping Forks - 4
With the allen key wrench and the special tool in place, give a sharp turn on the special tool while holding the wrench still. Continue turning until the allen bolt comes out. At this point you can expect more oil to come out of the bolt hole. Make sure there is something to catch it!!
Allen bolt - quite short Take the forks out of the vice and tip out the damper rod. There is a spring on it - sometimes this gets left in the fork. If it stays there, tap the fork gently until it drops out.
The damper rod without spring - make sure the spring is out before going further <-- Back Next -->
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Stripping Forks
Stripping Forks - 5
So now we have done the hard bit. All the bits are out of the fork (you can look through it now), the fork bolts are undone. So what is to stop you taking apart well one tiny little clip that holds in the fork seal . So to get this out first take off the dust seal, which is that black thing at the top of the bottom fork. Easy, just use a small screwdriver and out it comes. Don't dig around with the screw driver - you'll damage the leg or the chrome. Just ease it out.
Easing off the dustcap Just the little clip to go now then we can pull it apart. Using the same small screwdriver clear away the dirt and grime that will have accumulated there. There is a little clip that sits in a groove in the leg. there will be two small hoops that stick out. Get the screwdriver in there and pull the clip towards the center, out of the groove. For the second one pull it out and up and the clip will come out. Now we get to the fun part - pulling the forks apart. The fork seal is tight in there - so a good pull is needed. I find the best way (for me) is to hold the leg
Stripping Forks
between my feet and then make several sharp pulls up of the top tube. This moves the fork seal out of the leg, and then you are left holding the two parts.
The end of the top tube I recommend that the Teflon slider is replaced along with the seals. This is easy is remove. Just use the trusty small screwdriver to get underneath and pull it out of the groove
Undoing the Teflon slider That's it folks - all finished! <-- Back
http://vx800.net/workshop/forks/dustcap.jpg
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http://vx800.net/workshop/forks/damperrod.jpg
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VX800 Web Pages - Clutch
Courtesy of Steve Bell Clutch Plates

Life is never easy. When I first bought my VX a year ago I noticed that on the odd occasion, when I opened up the throttle and put the engine under stress, the clutch tended to slip a little. Over the year it got worse and worse. It never got to the point where it was dangerous, just to the point where it was annoying. I decided to change the clutch plates. I bought the clutch plates from M&P for 32. They could not however supply me with new clutch springs despite their magazine saying they could ! This is how I went about it. 1. Soak the new clutch plates in new engine oil for 24 hours. 2. Warm the engine and empty the oil from the engine. Let the engine cool. 3. Remove exhaust pipe on the left hand side. 4. Remove the rear break lever. (This gave me the chance to copper grease the break spindle because it was very dry) 5. Remove engine cover 6. Remove the 8 spring loaded bolts that hold the clutch plates together - noting where the bolts came from. 7. Remove the top pressure plate. 8. Remove the old clutch plates and replace them with the 7 new clutch plates. 9. Re assemble everything . (steps 7-1). Note that a new gasket seal will be needed on the engine cover, unless, like me you use silicon gaskets from a tube. 10. Put new oil in the engine. 11. Adjust the clutch using the clutch adjustment locking bolt beneath the rear right hand (nearside) engine cover plate. I found that unscrewing it until there was no back pressure on the clutch lever then tightening until resistance was found and then locking the bolt in place. 12. Warm the engine up again and leave to run for a while, changing gear whilst the bike was on the centre stand. 13. Test ride !!
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The steps 2 - 12 took me 3 hours of steady work. It was so easy.
The result of the clutch plate change is (1) No clutch slip at all. (2) The clutch engages when the clutch lever is closer to the handle bar. Comparing the new plates to the old showed that the old plates were very worn. The new cluctch plates were about 3mm thicker than the old.
Engine cover removed to show clutch. Note the 8 spring loaded bolts and the silver pressure plate.
Bolts and pressure plates removed showing the old worn plates.
Clutch adjustment is made from the locking bolt on the nearside.
And a photo of the old cluch plates in case you didn't know what they look like. (I didn't !!)
March 2000
UPDATE APRIL 28th 2000

After a 1000 miles the clutch began to slip again ! I bought some new clutch springs (14 from a Suzuki Dealer) and took the bike apart. Inspection of the old springs against the new springs showed that the old springs were 1mm shorter than the new ones. I also found that the retaining bolts that hold the clutch together were not evenly tightened a mistake from the original clutch plate change and the outer clutch plate was slightly uneven in its wear pattern. After putting the new springs in and swopping the paltes around I found the clutch was even better
than when the new plates were put in. The moral of this story is (1) change the springs when changing the clutch plates and (2) make sure the bolts are all at the same torque.
VX800 Web Pages - Fairings
Fairings For the VX
The Pichler Fairing (German) http://www.pichler.de/Pages/startere.htm for the English http://www.pichler.de/Pages/starterd.htm for the German
Rickman Tempest Fairing http://????
Power Bronze Bol Dor (UK) http://www.powerbronze.co.uk
Power Bronze Bol Dor (pic 2) http://www.powerbronze.co. uk
OEM Suzuki Cafe Fairing http://www.suzuki.com
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Power Bronze Endurance fairing http://www.powerbronze. co.uk
TCP Fairing (Spain) http://www.tcpsa.com
Yamaha Diversion 900 Fairing com
www.yamaha.
Powerbronze Voyager Fairing http://www.powerbronze.co. uk
Powerbronze Cobra Fairing http://www.powerbronze.co.uk
National Cycle Plexistar 2 Windscreen www.nationalcycle. com/suzuki
National Cycle Street Shield www.nationalcycle.com/suzuki
The company that makes the fairing is: Schurgers Polyester Address: Bennebroekerweg 214 2142 LD Cruquis Netherlands Telephone: +31 (0) 23 5283367
Powerbronze Light Screen co.uk
htttp://www.powerbronze.
Rifle Screen www.rifle.com
Pantera Laser Fairing (UK) Acrybre Products,Dorset. Tel 01305 787498
Suzuki Bandit Fairing (#1)
Suzuki Bandit Fairing (#2)
If you have a fairing that is not shown here..please send me photographs
VX800 Web Pages - Template
Andr Peeters and his Black VX91 fitted with a Pilcher Fairing
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VX800 Web Pages - Cafe Fairing
The Suzuki OEM Cafe Fairing.
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VX800 Web Pages - Cafe Fairing
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VX800 Web Pages - TCP Fairing
The TCP Fairing

These photographs are of Robert Marcs VX. It is fitted with a TCP Fairing. Click on the photographs for a full scale photograph.
http://vx800.net/fairings/tcp.htm7/23/2005 12:12:08 PM
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http://vx800.net/fairings/diversion.jpg
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VX800 Web Pages - Power Bronze Voyager Fairings
The Power Bronze Voyager Full fairing.

Fitted to Ian "TwoVXes"Johnsons VX (Dec 1999)
I first saw this fairing about 6 years ago, and liked the look of it so much I decided that one day I would have one. According to Powerbronze's blurb, it's standard fitment for the AA, RAC and many high-profile UK courier companies and is a Suzuki-approved accessory for the GSX1100G. Ordering. <RANT> Originally I ordered it from M&P *spit*. However, all they do is relay your order on to Powerbronze - or not, as the case may be (and it was definitely *not*, in my case). About a week after I placed my order for a white one (which I was going to go for to see what the cagers' reactions were :) M&P contacted me because there was a problem with my credit card (bloody house names again!). I therefore assumed that it would be duly despatched as they were charging me. After another week (or was it two?) without any sign of a fairing I thought I'd ring Powerbronze to see if they'd despatched it yet. "Order for a Voyager in white? Through M&P? Sorry mate, no record of it. Anyway, there's a supply problem with white at the moment - wouldn't be able to despatch until after Christmas". Suitably incensed, I rang M&P who said "Oh - we've got a record of your order, but for some reason it hasn't gone through". So I told them to cancel it and credit my card as I was going to order a red one direct from Powerbronze, which I did, and just over 3 weeks later it arrived. Cost a bit more to buy direct (for some reason), but at least I got it :) </RANT> Pricing. Now the nitty-gritty. It ain't cheap. 425ukp if you want to risk buying
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through M&P, or 438ukp direct from Powerbronze (presumably the difference is the UK shipping charge). Colour-matching's 188ukp extra (which is why I went for the plain red), and lockable compartments (which I wish I could have afforded too) 52ukp extra. I rang Powerbronze and spoke to Andy, on +44 1903 783222 to order direct. Their web site is: http://www.powerbronze.co.uk and according to the "E-mail" link you can e-mail them: sales@powerbronze.co.uk for a catalogue or to ask questions, but there's no mention of ordering by e-mail or overseas shipping. Fitting. There's a bit of drilling and stuff to do. They don't drill the lowers because of the huge variation in frame widths (across-the-frame fours, etc.), and I had to make up bracket extensions of about 6" each side because the VX is so narrow. There are a couple of brackets which are attached to the frame downtubes by Jubilee clips, and as the radiator cover is flush with the downtubes I had to cut some plastic away to give a bit of clearance. Other comments. One of the nice things about the fairing is that (as you'll have seen from the pic) you can keep your existing mirrors, and as long as you get the fairing lined up properly they don't foul the screen on full lock. On the downside, I've got a pair of fairing-mounted mirrors that I was going to put on but the angle of the fairing shell meant that there was nowhere near enough adjustment in the mirrors to be able to see anything other than the sides of the road :( Maybe there are fairing mirrors out there with more adjustment... As Brian mentioned, he knows someone who's got a VX with a Voyager on it and who's made up a couple of small panels because the gap between the lowers and the engine lets a draught through (wimp! :) To be honest, I can't say I've noticed it as yet - I rode in rain last Monday, and temperatures down to around freezing for the rest of the week, and I felt comfortable most of the time. But then I do wear a BabyGro (one-piece lined suit :) Thinking about it, I'd assumed that the inferior wet weather protection (compared to the Rickman on my GT750) I mentioned was due to the smaller screen, but maybe it's to do with water coming up through the gaps. A bit of experimentation necessary here, methinks. Hope this has given you all a bit more info on the fairing - I know Steve's convinced! Ian "TwoVXes" Johnson. '92 Red VX800
'90 Blue VX800 Somerset, UK http://www.windfalls.u-net.com
http://vx800.net/fairings/vic1.jpg
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VX800 Web Pages - Jim's CobraFairings
Jims VX
These photographs are of Jim Chens VX. It is fitted with a Powerbronze Cobra Fairing. Click on the photographs for a full scale photograph.
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VX800 Web Pages - Jim's CobraFairings
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VX800 Web Pages - Ben Ros
Ben Ros and his VX

Here are two pictures of my bike with a fairing. One picture with Krauser panniers (I believe K1) and a Givi PointBox. This fairing is manufactured by a small business in Holland which is run by a former Dutch 125cc motorcycle champion: Jos Schurgers. Schurgers Polyester Address: Bennebroekerweg 214 2142 LD Cruquis Netherlands Telephone: +31 (0) 23 5283367 I think the fairing (980S) is still produced but don't know whether it's still available with VX800 mountings. The lower parts can be taken off in about 15 min. which is very nice when it's hot in the summer. A half top remains.
Some words about me and my VX: Way, way back when I became 18 years old :) I got my motorcycle drivers licence (before the car licence). I was mad about bikes. Drove different bikes for some 10 years during my studenthood and after. But after a while, well you know how it is, wanted to raise a family. I can't remember how long since I didn't ride a bike but it must have been about 20 years. The last couple of years I had been thinking of getting another bike again but never came to buying one until last April 1999. Looking for a sporty tourer bike I came across a VX800 in the bike shop close to my work and was immediately interested. What a nice design! I really liked the looks of it. The bike seems to be very consciously designed as a whole. Oh well, that just a matter of personal taste. Took a test-drive which was very strange to me after 20 years. The first bends I took at very slow speed! It felt completely different to what I had expected. But after a few blocks I already got used to it and could try the power. Wow, it pulls!
Still, didn't know anything about the bike. It was a 1990'er with 23000km so I wanted some more background as to reliability an things. Searched the internet and there I came across the homepages of quite a lot of VX owners!. Surprised I emailed to Ko Harthoorn for info on the bike. His reply and some very good reviews I read convinced me to buy it and I certainly didn't regret that since.
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VX800 Web Pages - Ben Ros
Ben
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VX800 Web Pages - Bandit Fairings
Charlie Keefe
VX with Bandit Fairing
The weather protection is fairly good. I am 6' tall. I have raised the bars about 1 1/2" and the wind blast hits me a the nose level. I have added an aftermarket screen by Rifle and that raises the wind from the neck area. The air comes across very clean and has very little buffeting at the helmet. The wind just touches the outside of my shoulders and hand protection is totally absent. The riding position on the VX behind the fairing is almost identical to that of riding the Bandit with the same fairing(except for the addition of the Rifle shield). Julie rarely rides pillion so I dont have a good answer to the question of what the fairing is like for the Pillion. Mounting the fairing basically required fabricating a mount on the down tube holding the steering bearings. I did this with 1 3/4" heavy duty muffler clamps. I then bolted steel angle iron to that and bolted the main fairing bracket to the angle iron. This allowed for minor variations in height as well as forward/aft positioning. I mounted the fairing as rearward as possible so that the gauges turn as a close as possible lock to lock. The sides of the fairing (near the tank) are mounted with small aluminum straps. The bags are Givi 36L So what I now have is a light weight sport touring machine. I had
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VX800 Web Pages - Bandit Fairings
originally desired a ST1100 Honda but I prefer a bike with less mass. I do wish the VX had another 25 hp (really, another 50 would be nice !) but the bike does my 300-600 mile days very well. And the occasional 1000 mile days as well. If you have any more questions, feel free to write.
Charlie......in beautiful North Carolina
A pic of Charlie and Julie. Taken at the TWO during the VX shindig May 1999. She rides a Honda Hawk GT650. What a life !!!
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VX800 Web Pages - Ricks Bike
Ricks Bike - Fitted with a Bandit 1200 Fairing
I've owned my VX for not quite a year. I thought it looked unfinished with the luggage, but without some sort of a fairing. I liked the TCP fairing, but they are not available in the US. Powerbronze has some good looking fairings, but since I'm a cheapskate :) I didn't want to spend what it would cost to get one of the PB fairings. Then I started eyeballing the Bandits and thought they kind of looked similar to the VX lines. I was able to find the Bandit fairing by lurking on the Bandit mail list. I've got about $300.00 total in the conversion. The color was close enough that I'm not going to bother painting. The weather protection isn't that great, but I think it really finishes the appearance of the bike. I'm planning on buying either a Rifle, National Cycle or Zero Gravity windscreen this spring depending which one will fit my needs(wants).
The bags were a Suzuki option. They are actually Krauser K2's, I think. Maybe somebody with more knowledge of the Krauser products would know. The bags are not as large as I would like, they will not hold a helmet, but they work fine for the weekend jaunts around the Ozarks
Rick Greninger Springfield, Mo. USA
Jan 2000
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VX800 Web Pages - Ricks Bike
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VX800 Web Pages - Specifications
The VX800 Specifications Page
TORQUE CHARTS SERVICE DATA DYNO ROLLING ROAD TEST RESULT Carburetor Specifications
The series of symbols on the left stand for the countries and areas on the right.
COUNTRY OR AREA
E-01 E-02 E-03 E-04 E-15 E-16 E17 E21 E22 E24 E25 E28 E33
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General market (Export standard model) England USA (except California) France Finland Norway Switzerland Belgium West Germany Australia Netherlands Canada California (U.S.A.)
E34 E39 E53
Italy Austria Spain
SPECIFICATIONS, DIMENSIONS AND DRY MASS

Overall length 2280 mm (89.8 in)... E15, 16,17,22,25,39 Overall width Overall height Wheel base Ground clearance Seat height Dry mass 805 mm (31.7 in) 1115 mm (43.9 in) E03, 28,33 1085 mm (42.7 in) 565 mm (61.6 in) E03, 33 1555 mm (61.2 in) 145 mm ( 5.7 in) 800 mm (31.5 in) E01, 03,28,33 795 mm (31.3 in) 214kg (4721bs) E33 213kg (470 lbs) 2355 mm (92.7 in) . . E18 2255 mm (88.8 in)..
ENGINE
Type Valve clearance Number of cylinders Bore Four-stroke, water-cooled, OHC, TSCC 450 V-twin 0.08-0.13 mm (0.003 - 0.005 in) 2 83.0 mm (3.268 in)
Stroke Piston displacement Compression ratio Starter system Lubrication system
74A mm (2.929 in) 805cm3 (49.12cu. in) 10,0 :1 Electric starter motor Wet sump
Carburetors
Front Rear Air cleaner MIKUNI 80S36SS, single MIKUNI BSS6SS, single Polyester fiber element Click here for Carburetor specifications
TRANSMISSION
Clutch Transmission Gearshift pattern Primary reduction ratio Wet multi-plate type 5-speed constant mesh 1-down, 4-up Gear ratios Low 1.690(71/42) 2nd 2.285(32/14) 3rd 1.631 (31/19) 4th 1.227 (27/22) Top 1.000(25/25) Secondary reduction ratio 0.851(23/27) - 1.133(17/15x30/30)...E03,33
Final reduction ratio Drive system Shaft drive
1.096(17/15 x 30/31). Others3.090(34/11)
CHASSIS
Front suspension Rear suspension Telescopic, coil spring, oil damped Swingarm, coil spring, gas/oil damped, spring preload 5-way adjustable; rebound damping force 4-way adjustable EO1,03,28,33;compression damping force 4-way adjustable and rebound damping force 4-way adjustable... Front suspension stroke 150 mm (5.9 in) Rear wheel travel 118mm (4,6 in). EO1,03,28,33 .119 mm (4.7 in)... Others Steering angle Caster Trail Turning radius Front brake Rear brake Front tire size Rear tire size 35 (right & left) 59 143 mm (5.63 in)... E01, 03, 28, 33 142 mm (5.59 in) ... Others 3.2m(10.5 ft) Disc Disc 110/80-18 58H, tubeless 150/70B17 69H, tubeless
ELECTRICAL
Electrical System Wiring diagram Ignition type Fully transistorized
Ignition timing
5 B.T.D.C. below 1650 r/min and 30 B.T.D.C. above 3500 r/min... E03, 33 T.D.C.below 1625 r/min and 30 B. T.D.C. above 3500 r/min... E18 5 B.T.D.C. below 1625 r/min and 32 B.T.D.C. above 3750 r/min. .. Others
Spark plug Battery Fuse Headlight Position light Turn signal light Tail/Brake light License plate light Speedometer light Tachometer light Neutral indicator light High beam indicator light Turn signal light indicator light Oil pressure indicator light Coolant temperature check light
NGK DPR8EA-9 or NIPPON DENSO X24EPR-U9 12V (l6Ah)/10HR 25/10/10/10A 12V 60/55W 12V 4W... except E03, 28,33 12V 21W 12V 5/21W 12V 5W 12V 3.4W 12V 1.7W 12V 3.4W 12V 1.7W 12V 3.4W 12V 3.4W 12V 3W
CAPACITIES
Fuel tank, including reserve 18.0 L (4.8/4.0 US/Imp. gal) ... E33 19.0 L (5.0/4.2 US/Imp. gal) ... Others Reserve 4.0 L (1.1/0.9 US/Imp. gal)
Engine oil
oil change with filter change 2,400 ml (2.5/2.1 US/Imp. qt) 2800 ml (3.0/2.5 US/Imp. qt)
overhaul Final gear oil Coolant (including reserve) Front fork oil (each leg)
3300 ml (3.5/2.9 US/Imp. qt) 200 - 220 ml (6.8/7.0 - 7.4/7.7 US/Imp. oz) 1700 ml (1.8/1.5 US/Imp. qt) 388 ml (13.1/13.7 US/Imp .. E01,03,28,33 392 ml (13.2/13.8 US/Imp...) ... Others (If you have Progressive springs, you must have approx. 290 ml)
VX800 Web Pages - Torque
VX800 Specifications
TIGHTENING TORQUE
ENGINE
ITEM Cylinder head cover bolt M6 M8
Cylinder head bolt and nut
N.m
9 - 11
kg-m 0,9 - 1.1

2.1-2.5
lb-ft 6.5 - 8.0 15.0-18.0 25.5-29.0 6.0-8.0 6.5-8.0 58.0-79.5 36.0 - 50.5 18.0-21.5 6.0-8.0 6.0-8.5 10.0 - 11.5 9.5-11.5 6.5-9.5 14.5-17.5 14.5 - 17.5 3.0 - 5.0 6.0-8.5 8.5-13.0 14.5-18.0 14.5-18.0 6.0-8.5 8.5 - 13.0 14.5 - 18.0
21-25 35-40 8-12 9-11 80 - 110 50 - 70

25-30
M10
M8
3.5-4.0 0.8-1.2 0.9-1.1 8.0-11.0 5.0 - 7.0

2.5-3.0
M6
Primary drive gear bolt
Clutch sleeve hub nut

Rocker arm bolt Chain guide bolt
8-12 8-12 14 - 16 13-16 M6 M8 9 - 13 20-24 20 - 24 M6 M8 M10 M14 M16 4-7 8-12 12-18 20-25 20-25 8-12 12 - 18 20 - 25
0.8-12 0.8-12 1.4 - 1.6 1.3-1.6 09 - 1.3 2.0-2,4 2.0 - 2.4 0.4 -0.7 0.8-1.2 12-1.8 2.0-2.5 2.0-2.5 0.8-12
12 - 1.8
Chain tensioner bolt Cam chain sprocket bolt Tappetadjuster lock nut Crankcase bolt
Secondary gear case bolt Oil gallery plug
Oil pipe clamp bolt Magneto cover hole plug T.D.C. Inspection plug
2.0 - 2.5
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Oil drain plug Oil pump bolt Oil relief valve Oil filter union bolt Engine mounting bolt M8, L135 M8, L150 M10, L130 M10, L170 Driveshaft bolt Secondary drive bevel gear shaft nut Magneto rotor bolt Frame mounting bolt
Engine mounting
18-23 9-13 25-30 12-18 37 - 45 37-45 70-88 70-88 60 - 70 80 - 110 140-160 40 - 60 M8 M6 18-28 8-12 49 - 53
1.8-2.3 0.9-1.3 2.5-3.0 12-1.8 3.7 - 4.5 3.7 - 4.5 7.0-8.8 7.0-8.8 6.0 - 7.0 8.0 - 11.0 14.0-16.0 4.0 - 6.0 1.8 - 2.8 0.8-12 4.9 - 5.3
13.0-16.5 6.5-9.5 18.0-21.5 8.5-13.0 50.5 - 63.5 50.5 - 63.5 50.5-63.5 50.5-63.5 43.5 - 50.5 58.0 - 79.5 101.5-115.5 29.0-43.5 13.0-20.0 6.0-8.5 35.5 - 38.5
Con-rod nut
COOLING
N.m
kg-m
Ib-ft
Radiator mounting bolt M10
50-65
5.0-6.5
36.0-47.0
Fan switch Temperature gauge
9-14 10-15
0.9- 1.1
6.5-10.0 7.0-11.0
1.0-1.5
SHAFT DRIVE
N.m
kg-m
lb-ft
Secondary drive bevel gear housing bolt Secondary driven bevel gear housing bolt Final drive bevel gear shaft nut Final drive bevel gear bearing stopper Final driven gear bearing retainer screw Final gear bearing case bolt
18 - 28
1.8 - 2.8
13.0 - 20.0
18 - 28
1.8 - 2.8
13.0 - 20.0
90 - 110 90 - 120 8 - 10
20-26
9.0 - 11.0 9.0 - 12.0 0.8 - 1.0 2.0 - 2.6
65.0 - 79.5 65.0 - 87.0 6.0 - 7.0 14.5 - 19.0
CHASSIS
Steering stem head nut Front fork upper clamp bolt Front fork lower clamp bolt Front axle shaft Front axle pinch bolt Handlebar clamp bolt Handlebar holder mounting nut
N-m
kg-m
50 - 80 18 - 28 18 - 28 36 - 52 18 - 28 18 - 28 20 - 30 5-8 30 - 48 15 - 20 6-9 18 - 28 27 - 43 100-130 22 - 35 18 - 28 20 - 31 30 - 36 22 - 35 8 - 12 15 - 20 60 - 96 35 - 45
lb-ft
5.0 - 8.0 1.8 - 2.8 1.8 - 2.8 3.6 - 5.2 1.8 - 2.8 1.8 - 2.8 2.0 - 3.0 0.5 - 0.8 3.0 - 4.8 1.5 - 2.0 0.6 - 0.9 1.8 - 2.8 2.7 - 4.3 10-13 2.2 - 3.5 1.8 - 2.8 2.0 - 3.1 3.0 - 3.6 2.2 - 3.5 0.8 - 1.2 15 - 2.0 6.0 - 9.6 3.5 - 4.5 36.0 - 58.0 13.0 - 20.0 13.0 - 20.0 26.0- 37.5 13.0 - 20.0 13.0 - 20.0 14.5 - 21.5 3.5 - 6.0 21.5 - 34.5 11.0 - 14.5 4.5 - 6.5 13.0 - 20.0 19.5 - 31.0 72.5 - 94.0 16.0 - 25.5 13.0 - 20.0 14.5 - 22.5 21.5 - 26.0 16.0 - 25.5 6.0 - 8.5 11.0 - 14.5 43.5 - 69.5 25.5 - 32.5
Front brake master cyl. mounting bolt Front brake caliper mounting bolt Brake hose union bolt Air bleeder valve Front and rear disc bolt Front footrest bracket mounting bolt Swingarm pivot nut Rear shock absorber upper/lower Rear brake pedal boss bolt Rear brake caliper mounting bolt Rear brake caliper housing bolt Torque link nut (Front & Rear) Rear brake master cylinder mounting bolt Rear brake rod lock nut Rear axle nut Final bevel gear case joint nut
TIGHTENING TORQUE CHART

For other bolts and nuts not listed above, refer to this chart: Conventional or "4" marked bolt mm N.m 4 5 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 1.0-2.0 2.0-4.0 4.0-7.0 10.0-16.0 22.0-35.0 35.0-55.0 50.0 - 80.0 80.0-130.0 130.0 - 190.0 Kg-m 0.1-02 02-0A OA-0.7
1.0-1.6
"7" marked bolt lb-ft 0.7-l

1.5-3.0
N.m
1.5-3.0
Kg-m
015-0.3
lb-ft 1.0-2.0 2.0-4.5 6.0-&5 13.0-20.0 29.0-43.5 50.5-72.5 79.5 - 115.5 123.0-181.0 144.5 202.5
3.0-6.0 8.0-12.0 1&0-28.0 40.0 - 60.0

70.0-100.0
0.3-0 0.8-12
1.8-2.8
3.0-5.0 7.0-11.5 1 &0 - 25.5

25.5-40.0
2.2 - 3.5 3.5-5.5 5.0-8.0 8.0-13.0 13.0 - 19.0
4.0-6.0
7.0-10.0
36.0 - 58.0 58.0-94.0 94.0 - 137.5
11.0.0 - 160.0 170.0-250.0 200.0 - 280.0
11.0 - 16.0 17.0-25.0 20.0 - 28.0
Conventional bolt : no marks "4" marked bolt : Is marked 4 on the head "7" marked bolt : Is marked 7 on the head
VX800 Web Pages - Service Data
VX800 SERVICE DATA
ITEM Valves and Guides Valve diamater Valve lift Valve clearance -cold Valve guide to valve stem clearance IN EX IN EX IN. & EX IN EX Valve guide I.D. Valve stem O.D. IN. & EX. IN EX Valve stem runout Valve head thickness Valve stem end length Valve seat width Valve spring free length IN. & EX IN. & EX IN. & EX IN. & EX. INNER OUTER Valve spring tension INNER
STANDARD 30 (1.18) 26 (1.02) 8.5 (0.33) 8.5 (0.33) 0.08-0.13 (0.003-0.005) 0.020-0.047 (0.00080.0019) 0.035-0.062 (0.00080.0019) 5.500-5.512 (0.21650.2170) 5.465-5.480 (0.21520.2157) 5.450-5.465 (0.21520.2157)
LIMIT
0.35 (0.014) 0.35 (0.014)
0.05 (0.002) 0.5 (0.02) 4.0 (0.16) 0.9-1.1 (0.035-0.043) 0.03 (0.001) 38.3 (1.51) 40.1 (1.58) 6.51-7.49kg(14.35-16.51 lbs) at length 32.5 mm (1.28 in)
Valve head radial runout IN. & EX.
OUTER
12.09-13.91kg (26.6530.67 lbs) at length 36.0 mm (1.42 in)
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ITEM CAMSHAFT + CYLINDER HEAD Cam height IN EX Camshaft journal oil clearance Camshaft journal holder No.1 Left side I.D.
STANDARD
LIMIT
35.954-35.994(1.41551.4171) 36.919-36.959(1.41551.4171) 0.032-0.066(0.00130.0026) 20.012-20.025
35.660(1.4039) 35.660(1.4039) 0.150
No.2 Right side (0.7879-0.7884) No.1 Right side 25.012-25.025 No.2 Left side Camshaft journal O.D. No.1 Left side No.1 Right side No.2 Left side Camshaft runout Cam chain 20-pitch length Rocker arm I.D Rocker arm shaft O.D Cylinder head distortion Cylinder head cover distortion ITEM CYLINDER + PISTON + PISTON RING Compression pressure 1 300- 1 600 kPa (13-16 kg/cm2) (185-228psi) Compression pressure difference Piston to cylinder clearance
(0.9847-0.9852) 19.959-19.980
No.2 Right side (0.7858-0.7866) 24.959-24.980 (0.9826-0.9835) 0.10 (0.004) 128.9 (5.07) IN. & EX. IN. & EX. 12.000-12.018 (0.4724-0.4731) 11.966-11.984 (0.4711-0.4718) 0.05 (0.002) 0.05 (0.002)
STANDARD
LIMIT
1 300- 1 600 kPa 11 kg/cm2 (156psi) 200 kPa(2 kg/ cm2)(28 psi)
0.045-0.055 (0.00180.0022)
0.120(0.0047)
Cylinder bore Piston diam. Measure at 15 mm (0.6 in) from the skirt end. Cylinder distortion Piston ring free end gap 1st 2nd Piston ring end gap Piston ring groove clearance Piston ring groove width 1st 2nd 1St 2nd 1st Approx Approx
83.000-83.015 (3.2677-3.2683 82.950-82.965 (3.2657-3.2663)
83.085 (3.2711) 82.880 (3.2630) 0.05 (0.002)
10.5 (0.413) 11.8 (0.465) 0.20-0.35(0.008-0.014) 0.20-0.35(0.008-0.014)
8.4 (0.331) 9.4 (0.370) 0.70(0.028) 0.70(0.028) 0.180 (0.007) 0.150 (0.006)
1.01-1.03 (0.0398-0.0406)
2nd Oil Piston ring thickness 1St 2nd Piston pin bore Piston pin O.D.
1.21-1.23 (0.0476-0.0484) 2.51-2.53 (0.0988-0.0996) 0.970-0.990 (0.0382-0.0390) 1.170-1.190 (0.0461-0.0469) 20.002-20.008 (0.7875-0.7877) 19.996-20.000 (0.7827-0.7874) 20.030 (0.7886) 19.980 (0.7866) LIMIT
ITEM
STANDARD
CONROD + CRANKSHAFT
Corod small end I.D. 20.010-20.018 (0.7878-0.7881) Conrod big end side clearance Conrod big end width 0.10-0.20 (0.004-0.010) 21.95-22.00 (0.864 - 0.866) 20.040 (0.7890) 0.30 (0.012)
Crank pin width
22.10-22.15 (0.870-0.872)
Conrod big end oil clearance Crank pin OD.
0.024-0.042 (0.0009-0.0017) 40.982-41.000 (1.6135-1.6142)
0.080 (0.0031)
Crankshaft journal oil clearance Crankshaft journal O.D.
0.020-0.050 (0.0008-0.0020) 47.965-47.980 (1.8884-1.8890)
0.080 (0.0031)
Crankshaft thrust bearing thickness Crankshaft thrust clearance Crankshaft runout ITEM
1.925 - 2.1 75 (0.0758-0.0856) 0.05-0.10 (0.0020-0.0040) 0.05 (0.002) STANDARD LIMIT
OIL PUMP
Oil pump reduction ratio Oil pressure (at 600C,1400F) at 3 000 r/min. at 3 000 r/min. 1.859 (71/42 x 32/29) Above 350 kPa (3.5 kg/cm2, 50 psi) Below 650 kPa (6.5 kg/cm2, 92 psi) CLUTCH Clutch cable play Clutch release screw Drive plate thickness No 1 No 2 Driven plate distortion Clutch spring free length No 1 No 2 24.6 (0.97) 23.3 (0.92) 4 (0.2) - turn back 2.65-2.95 (0.104-0.116) 3.45-3.55 (0.136-0.140) 0.10(0.004)
The specifications here are for information only. No Guarantee is made of the accuracy. Buy the Service manual !
VX800 Web Pages - Dyno
Dyno Results
The below graph shows the result of a Rolling Road Test on Brian Squibb's VX.
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VX800 Web Pages - Dyno
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VX800 Web Pages - Carb Spec
VX800 Carburetor Specifications
England - Belgium - Italy - Canada - Finland - Netherlands - France
Carburetor type
MIKUNI B53655 (No.1)
MIKUNI BD53655 (No.2)
Bore size
36 mm
ID. No.
45C10
Idle r/min.
1100 revs/min.
Float height
27.7mm (1.091 in)
9.11mm (0.3610.04 in)
Main jet (M.J.)
#132.5
#120
Jet Needle
5F108-3rd
5D49-3rd
Needle Jet
P4
Throttle Valve
#115
Pilot Jet
#47.5
#40
By Pass
0.8mm x 2PCS
0.8mm x 3PCS
Pilot outlet
0.8mm
1.0mm
Valve Seat
1.5mm
Starter Jet
#25
#22.5
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Pilot Screw
(pre-set) 1 turns back
(pre set) 1V8 turns back
Pilot Air Jet
N0.1: (#70), No2 (2.0mm)
No1:(#65), N02: (1.2mm)
Throttle Cable Play
0.5 - 1.0mm
Choke able Play
0.5 - 1.0mm
USA (except California)
Carburetor type
MIKUNI B53655 (No.1)
MIKUNI BD53655 (No.2)
Bore size
36 mm
ID. No.
45C10
Idle r/min.
1200 revs/min.
Float height
27.711mm (1.091 in)
9.11mm (0.3610.04 in)
Main jet (M.J.)
#132.5
#120
Jet Needle
5E69 -1st
5D47- 1st
Needle Jet
F-ri
PA
Throttle Valve
#115
#110
Pilot Jet
#H9
#HL1
By Pass
0.8mm x 2PCS
0.8mm x 3PCS
Pilot outlet
0.8mm
1.0mm
Valve Seat
1.5mm
Starter Jet
#25
#22.5
Pilot Screw
(pre-set)
(pre set)
Pilot Air Jet
N0.1: (#65), No2 (2.0mm)
No1:(#65), N02: (1.2mm)
Throttle Cable Play
0.5 - 1.0mm
Do not trust these figures - Buy a manual !
VX800 Web Pages - Electrical Scheme
VX Cabling / Electrical Scheme

Australian VX German VX USA and Canada VX All Other VX's
The above 4 links take you to a 380kb .gif file giving full details of the VX electrical system. It is suggested that you save the .gif file and print it off. This page was brought to you by Harald - March 2000
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VX800 Web Pages - Reviews
VX800 REVIEWS
Cycle World Magazine (USA) Used Bike Guide (UK) Motorcycle Sport (UK) Motor Cycle Rider (UK) What Bike (UK) Motor Cycle International Motor Cycle Mechanics (UK) Minnesota Motorcycle Monthly (USA) Riders Reviews Used Motorcycle Guide (UK) UMG Review
Year of Review 1990 1992 1994 1995 1995 1995 1995 1997 various ?? 1997
Why not write your own review and send it to me to put onto the Web. If you do it by email I will transfer it to html. Please send any photographs you would like putting in the review with the email.
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Cycle World Review 1992
Cycle World Magazine Review
The Suzuki VX800 is probably the most specialized motorcycle on the market today. And its specialty, of course, is not having a speciality.
Doubletalk, you say ? Not at all. Of all the bikes gathered for our 10-wat standard bike roundup, the Suzuki VX is the only new-for-1990 motorcycle that was designed from the ground up specifically to fall into the standard-bike category. The others are either upgraded reincarnations from an earlier time or bikes that have been through the so-called era of specialization.
But the Suzuki VX800 is the most dedicated undedicated bike yet.From the time when the first VX-related memo was passed between department heads at Suzuki, the idea was to make a modern standard. Oh, sure the eight valve V-Twin engine was borrowed from the Suzuki VS750 Intruder Cruiser, but the rest of the bike is absolutely new. The route that the VS engine took to find its way into the new bike is interesting though. First Suzuki gave it a 3mm larger bore to bring the displacement from 747 to 805cc and then came a larger radiator to handle the cooling chores of the larger engine. At some point in the motorcycles development the company changed the crankpin offset from 45 to 75 degrees in hope of creating a smoother running motor. But just as production began American Suzuki Engineers decided that the new offset resulted in less mid-range power as well as a too sanitised exhaust note. One that didn't sound very V-Twin like. Presto, now the US models come with the 45-degree offset while the rest of the world gets the 75-degree staggered crankpins. That crankpin offset might be the culprit behind the fact that the US model's engine does produce some vibration. But the buzzing only get intolerable above 6000 rpm and that's well above the cruising zone for the torquey motor. The big Vee pulls well from low revs and at 60mph its barely turning 4000rpm. The VX's handling feels strange initially, especially to riders accustomed to quick steering sports bikes. The machine is large, with a long wheel base and more rake (31 degrees) than anything this side of Peter Fonda's star-spangled Hog. So, naturally, the VX800 handles deliberately, just as a middle of the road bike should. Likewise the suspension on the VX is exactly what its meant to be: versatile. The twin shock rear end looks like a throwback to the early seventies, but it has adjustable rebound damping and
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Cycle World Review 1992
spring preload, just like the most modern single shockers. The VX has a rare capability to provide a smooth ride on the freeway as well as handling bumpy back roads with grace. At least at the paces that are expected of standard bikes. To many of our testers, this motorcycle's most endearing feature is that its comfortable. The rider has room, lots of it. Bigger riders in particular will appreciate the ample space from the wide seat to the footpegs. Plus the handlebar doesn't force a bent over riding posture, but its still fairly flat, so the rider doesn't catch a lot of wind. And if that's not good enough, Suzuki also offers two accessory fairings to cut down the windblast. Of course a VX with fairing is no longer a standard, right ? Maybe, maybe not. Part of the appeal of standards in general and the VX in particular is that each one can be personalised to suit its rider. After a few years on the road its unlikely that any two Ex.'s will look alike. Perhaps that, more than anything else, is what makes the Suzuki VX800 Special. Its a delightfully well-finished starting point.
Cycle World 1990
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Suzuki VX800- UBG REVIEW
Suzuki VX800
From Issue 48 UMG

Used Motorcycle guide published in the UK in about 1992
I guess it all depends on how attuned you are to the engineering of a particular bike, but the placement of one of the carbs on the VX almost made me throw up. Here was a 800cc OHC vee twin so mildly tuned that it only gave 60 horses. Something a 500cc twin, these days, manages with ease and a power output not beyond the means of race replica 250cc strokers. Here was a watercooled vee with cleverly placed crankpins to minimise vibration whilst keeping the engine relatively compact. A motor with deeply finned barrels and neatly finished engine castings that seemed to go out of its way to impress its functional chic upon the world. And, yet, by some profoundly disturbed logic it was burdened with twin carbs, the rear placed to give an awkward induction path when a singular carb between the pots would've been so natural, so perfect, that all the engineers had to do was take a glance at any Harley to find their way. Had the VX been a Vincent imitator then a surplus of carbs might be forgiven but it was in reality a big softie which could've easily got away with four instead of five gears. Maximum power comes in at 6500rpm, max torque (54ftlb) 1000 revs below that. These figures scream out for a single carb! The VX also has a weight problem. In 1993 a 800cc vee twin, be it both water-cooled and shaft driven, should come in at 350 to 400lbs, the VX has a dry mass of 475lbs. It also has a long wheelbase that makes a mockery of the engines compactness. Its pretty obvious that the motor and the frame were designed in separate departments, the former executed as well as any other vee on the market, the latter merely a sop to brain dead marketing men. The days when the Japanese made weak frames are long gone, the parameters of that art stored in their computers. The VX uses an old fashioned twin loop that despite being bolted together on one
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side (pass the sick bucket) is strong enough to take whatever nastiness the engine can produce. Most of the lower loop could've been thrown away had a more sensible use of the engine as a stressed member been employed. Just sitting on the bike reveals a remarkable softness of suspension. The narrowness of the VX, the lowish seat height and nice hump of a tank between knees feels good. The whole apparition comes crashing down when grabbing hold of the bars. Why on earth produce such a narrow bike only to fit handlebars that would fit in with some fat-cat four. They can at least be easily replaced. The other problem with efficient town riding was the gearbox, a piece of nastiness redolent of some horrible old BMW. Undoubtedly, the directness of the shaft drive interfered with the box, Suzuki have usually managed to produce ultra-slick gear changes and it's difficult to see why such an art should suddenly desert them. After a few days the clunking, when changing in the lower gears under anything other than hard acceleration, faded a bit and might even clear up with more than 4000 miles on the clock. Below 2500rpm there's a bit of rattle from the shaft as it tries to screw up the transmission. It needs a lot of attention in town to ride smoothly, rather like the old Boxer twins, something that can be adapted to after a while. Persistent power flows in from just above tick over, it never comes on cam as such, but gains urgency as the throttle is opened, all the way up to about 7000rpm. Beyond that, harshness and power fall-off make further throttle abuse pointless. 90mph cruising for an unfaired bike was remarkably easy and tolerably comfortable, the motor churning over at under 6000 revs. The exhaust note was a touch harder than relaxing and if I closed my eyes I could almost be on some old British twin. Top speed turned out to be 120mph but the motor felt unhappy and the chassis was something else. Poor suspension was the bane of the VX's life. I've ridden long travel suspension trail bikes that felt tauter in bends but the VX didn't even offer the ability to soak up large pot-holes. On smooth roads it was tolerable up to 90mph. Cornering was way ahead of something like a Harley, but that doesn't mean much. It was, perhaps, better than the old Japanese fours, down merely to the strength inherent in its frame and long wheelbase. The shaft would interfere with quick changes of direction when it wasn't sure how to react to the combination of fierce engine braking and sudden, desperate use of the brakes. Running wide through bends was its most disconcerting habit, the lack of any speed wobbles its best point. As with similarly afflicted BMWs, the solution is merely a matter of decent shocks and some heavyduty springs in the forks. The brakes were the usual laugh. A single rear disc was shoe-horned on to the back wheel, looked ridiculous and worked with none of the finesse of a good SLS drum. One of the ugliest master cylinder's in the world sits above the brake lever. It's unlikely that all the crud allowed past by the
minimal mudguard will let the rear calliper see out a winter. This trendy bit of trash engineering is not unique to the VX by any means. A single front disc proved a bit alarming the one time I had to rapidly lose 90mph. It was merely the excess mass that was at fault, lose a 100lbs and it'd be adequate. As it was, it was tolerable for cut and thrust riding in town and safe enough for most of the time out of town. Unfortunately, its that one time when massive braking force is required that really counts. Wet weather riding wasn't too fear inspiring. The wheels were a neat bit of engineering whilst the Metz tyres were wholly adequate for the performance. I had suspected that the fuel economy would've been appalling, the combination of poor induction path, shaft drive and excessive mass having it hovering around 35mpg. I was pleasantly surprised to find it was doing 50 to 55mpg for most of the time. One mad motorway dash got it down to 45mpg. With a four gallon tank it was possible to do 200 miles between fill-ups, something my backside could just about take. Rather than excusing its poor engineering such economy should suggest that properly designed around 70mpg should be available. As much as I hated most of its engineering, the nature of its vee-twin mill kept breaking through. It was so good that even when smothered by too much weight, hindered by a poor transmission and sent occasionally wild by soft suspension, it flowed along the roads with an eerie snarl and an eagerness of acceleration from its excessive torque that often brought a smile to my world weary face. It seemed to have stolen some of the charm of a well running Harley vee or old British twin but had none of the engineering horrors of the latter. Watercooling ensures that the back cylinder suffers from none of the overheating inherent if the design was air-cooled. It also helps with longevity, as engine clearances can be more exact. Major service intervals are at 8000 miles, although if it's used in town all the time it'd be necessary to change the oil every 1000 rather than 4000 miles, otherwise the oil will emulsify and engine life decrease. Suzuki have long made ultra tough motors and there's no reason to believe the VX will be any less reliable. With its mildly tuned mill it should last even longer. I liked the VX, though not at the four grand new price. For that kind of money much more interesting tackle can be bought. It's the kind of bike that a few years down the line will be sought after for its exemplary engine and have its chassis much modified. As always, it seems, no-one's really bothered to design the VX as a whole bike and the varying conflicts between its characteristics makes for a poor show in 1993. It says a lot for the vee-twin motorcycling experience that, paradoxically, it's jolly good fun to ride!
Motorcycle Sport VX Review
Motorcycle Sport, November 1994

GOOD VIBES
What's a VX800 then? Well, it's a sort of modern retro bike, classic styled, with a hi-tech approach - the sort of thing we should have been riding in the bad old days. Is there such a bike? There is, and it's been around for over four years. To my eye, Suzuki's promotion of the machine has been more low profile than Salman Rushtie. When I arrived to collect it the nice man at Suzuki told me it was 'my kind of bike'. Hmmm... I wasn't convinced. After all, I own a bike with a fairing and I seem to have ridden nothing but bikes with fairings for the last decade-and- a-half. Being practically ripped out of the seat by a gale force airflow over a set of wide bars, at speed, wasn't exactly my idea of motorcycling Nirvana. Still, I'd give it a try. Parked outside the company's HQ at Crawley, in blistering August sunshine, the VX800 looked as if it was 'the right bike at the right time'. In this heat, I was going to enjoy riding the 'little' beast on the open road. My eyes glazed over as memories flooded back. Shades of the summers of my youth, a time when freedom meant a pocketful of spare plugs, a 5oz can of Bardahl, warm breezes through the hair, and flies on gritted teeth. My god, was I really that old? The bike has nicely understated (a euphemism for 'conventional') styling. With an unusually shaped petrol tank merging smoothly with tapered side panels, I realised I was looking at (roll of drums) Son of Katana. But it doesn't take long for the eye to return and stay mesmerised by the lovely big, 800cc short stroke, 45 degrees, V-twin engine. Despite water cooling, Suzuki have left the fins on the cylinders and the big mill really looks the business. That will do nicely... I was ready to rock 'n' roll! Going the direct route home, through London from Crawley, is about 30 miles and traffic is always horrendous. On the other hand, the M25 and M3 route is more than double that distance, but in this weather on that bike, it was no contest. The 'magic roundabout' won hands down. For 65 miles I was as cool as a salad cucumber, but I didn't learn much about the bike. Sure, the engine was everything I had expected, and more. I can't remember the last time I rode with a motor underneath me that didn't vibrate at any revs. And you could pick your cruising speed. If I had been in a hurry, the bike would have comfortably lolloped along at just under the 'ton'. At the legal limit, the engine pulls at 5,000rpm in top gear and red-lines at 8,500rpm. Just the way I like 'em. As part of my normal working routine, I ventured into London's West End a couple of times during the next few days, and found I could zip the VX in and out of traffic like a DR born. The shaft drive is almost unnoticeable and causes little reaction in the suspension when accelerating from standstill. The bike has a 10 feet turning circle and this gives it a good lock when manoeuvring through dual carriageway, traffic snarlups. Despite its 470lb dry weight, it was easy to handle, had a delightful five-speed box and (of course) a super, tractable engine, and we rarely got stuck behind anything. I even caught DRs sneaking surreptitious glances at it, at the traffic lights. Invariably, they were wary of the bike and proved it by not blasting away when the lights changed. Now, that is respect. So far, so good, but the only way to really get to know a bike is to ride it over every known type of road. A trip to destinations north was called for, somewhere in Wales perhaps - say Anglesey. Good idea; I'd stay with friends at Bolton and Abergele
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on Friday and Saturday, and then return on Sunday. That should do the trick. Friday midday, and I'm on the road again. The VX doesn't have luggage carrying facilities except for bungee anchor points. I suppose people like Givi Nonfango and Krauser make panniers and fittings for it, but with the 'box standard' bike you're on your own. In consequence, my old reliable Nonfango hard case is on the 19 litres tank and contains a small camera bag. A brand new Baglux Adventure tail bag sits on the pillion seat and holds everything I need for two nights and a hectic social life! The weather is good, but a little cold, and I'm ready to blast the cobwebs away. The M40 speeds me to Oxford and onto the A40. Traffic is worse that I expect and the VX is confined to traffic hopping. Almost every successive mile enhances my liking for that superb V-twin engine. Power delivery characteristics are amazingly similar to the K100RS (eight-valve) motor. If I want power, I've got it. Anywhere, anytime, in any gear, it's right there under my right hand. There's even a marked degree of engine braking which ensures a relaxed ride and enables me to slot in and out of lines of vehicles without as much as a glimmer of brake light. Eventually, I reach the A417 and head towards Gloucester and Ledbury. This is one of two roads I always look forward to riding. The other - the A49 - will come later and is a blue riband for hard chargers. Traffic doesn't improve and is almost as bad as a bank holiday,but just occasionally I manage to get a run at some of those great bends. When I slightly misjudge the entry speed of a corner and need to scrub off speed, the huge, single disc at the front does its job well. Handling is good, but road holding is a little er... odd. I think this peculiarity is caused by two things. In the first instance, there is no adjustment possible on the front forks, which are definitely set too hard. Isolated bumps cause the front to skip, or lighten, and although it doesn't present a problem it sure as hell rattles your teeth. At the other end, the rear unit which has five preload and four damper adjustments is difficult to assess because of the seat! As strange as that may sound, it's true. The seat is too soft and spongy, so that when the rear wheel hits a bump the impression is that suspension damping is set too soft. Actually, it's the seat that keeps bouncing and not the suspension. It took me two attempts at adjustment before I realised what was happening. Perversely, this doesn't make the seat one of the most comfortable I've ever sat on. It's OK, nothing more, just OK. Unfortunately, it does tend to 'blur' feedback from the rear end. Slow-speed handling was quick, but not quite neutral. A tiny degree of oversteer was noticed on roundabouts and when turning tightly between stationary vehicles. During high-speed cornering the bike understeered a little when the engine wasn't driving the rear wheel hard enough. This wasn't a factor if gear changing was performed so that the VX could be powered through bends at (at least) 4,500rpm. Admittedly this isn't 'normal' riding and anything of a lesser pace proved that it didn't really matter what gear you were in! With oceans of instantly available grunt under the right hand, rapid exits from bends were the big factor that enabled a continuously high average touring speed. When it came to high-speed, straight line steering, the VX (like most modern bikes) was predictable and sure footed. These days, though, that's a characteristic more affected by tyres than any other factor. When you write something like the above, it seems as if the criticism is of a major fault, but it isn't meant to imply that. I don't think a tiny road holding oddity will bother most riders, even if they do notice it. The tyres incidentally, were the well-proven Metzeler Laser (front) and Metronic (rear) which I find a little over-sensitive at slow speed and prone to white lining. Despite their good grip, excellent feedback and predictability in the wet, I would be inclined to try Bridgestone or Dunlop radials in an attempt to improve the VX800's road holding - if it bugged me in the long term. The A49 proved as enjoyable as always. Providing you are on full alert through the rural farming areas of Herefordshire and Shropshire, there are all types of bends and curves to please all types of rider. I rode hard for over 90 miles and although the VX's tubular frame flexed a little here and there, the bike responded magnificently. Any shortcomings when being ridden like this were more down to me than the bike. Ride it properly and it rewards you with supreme enjoyment and a sense of elan that only a good motorcycle can provide. Terrific low-down torque More and more, I was equating the VX with my own KRS. It has the same (apparent) 45 degrees power 'curve' with a lovely soft delivery through bends, and terrific low-down torque out of them. Keep it in the right gear,
when hard charging, turn the power on and the bike will handle anything you can dish out. It would give most middleweight road rockets a run for their money and it would do it safely and with less effort. The wide bars are not restrictive, and when charging hard, almost encourage you to make like Graeme Crosby and hang off the bike! There's no way I do that on a public road ... Saturday morning and the destination was Anglesey. I took the necessary M62/M56 route out of Bolton, switched to the A55 at Helsby and struggled along behind a parade of Middle Lane Owner's Club drivers, as far as St Asaph. Merciful relief when I switched to the (pre-planned) B5381 for a slow 16 miles to Llandudno Junction. A disappointing road, but at least it was empty, though I learned little about the VX that I didn't already know. I crossed the Britannia Bridge from the mainland, simply to look over towards the famous Menai Suspension Bridge, and I wasn't disappointed. It really is a beautiful, aesthetic structure. Almost a quarter mile long and 100 feet high, the bridge was designed in 1881 by Thomas Telford. In those days supporting chains were treated against rust by using linseed oil - not wine, as the White Knight claimed in Lewis Carroll's Through The Looking Glass. However, at the onset of World War II the bridge was strengthened and the wrought iron chains replaced by steel versions. One hundred feet below the bridge, tidal currents of the infamous Menai Strait are among the fiercest in Britain. In the 1870s over 700 vessels were registered to Menai ports, which was one of the most important shipping centres in Britain. Of course, things have changed a bit since then, although larger vessels can still be seen in the Strait. Right next to the bridge, and just over the A5's more modem Britannia Bridge, is the village with the longest name in Britain. What's in a name? Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch (the locals abbreviate it somewhat) was a hoax name coined in the 19th century. Translated from the Welsh, it means St Mary's Church in the hollow of white hazel near a rapid whirlpool and the Church of St Tysilio near the red cave. It may have been intended as a joke, but it drags in the tourists and the town council laugh all the way to the bank! I stopped at the splendid Visitor's Centre, which is a multifaceted complex based around a railway theme, and with all information departments clearly signed with boards resembling early, post-war platform signs. In addition there is a book shop, cafeteria, toilets and a huge woollens department selling quality goods such as Pringle knitwear. This isn't surprising, because I was told the place was owned by that esteemed company until a few years ago, when it was bought (ironically) by Edinburgh Woollen Mills! It was here that I bumped into Ann, from Sutton, on a 250cc Honda, who was heading for Trefor for a week's holiday. A motorcyclist of only two years' experience, Ann already has a trip to the Pyrenees behind her and claims that the bike is the only true love of her life. London to Trefor on a 250 - no problem! Humbling, isn't it? I head for Beaumaris and Pentraeth to pick up the A5025, which will take me (more-or-less) around the coastline of the island. The road varies from slow to fast, with everything in between and the surface is just as variable. Good for riding, the A5025 has little else to commend it. The scenery is non- existent and Anglesey is pretty flat anyway. I depart twice from the road to explore two of the island's most picturesque beaches, Red Wharf Bay and Moelfre Bay. Both are impressive, but in poor light and from the roads on which I approached I find little to photograph. I save my film for the conclusion of the ride, Holyhead and the Holy Island. The famous little island is the terminus of both the A5 trunk road which was toll operated at the time it was completed in Holyhead, and the North Wales railway line from London's Euston station. The bustling nature of the little `capital' town can be largely attributed to its role as a ferry port. Packet boats have set sail for Dublin from as early as the 16th century and still do, though these days they are Super RoRos and Sea-Cat catamarans. Without doubt, Holy Island, in common with all the towns along the Menai Strait, is in the most interesting and picturesque part of Anglesey and this area is well worth a visit. I rode right through the town, past the ferry port and harbour, and out towards Holyhead Mountain. The next hour was spent exploring a couple of short, unclassified roads before pausing in the shadow of the 700 feet mountain in what used to be a huge limestone quarry, but is now a country park managed by the Anglesey Coastal Heritage. The peace and quiet was sublime. I took the opportunity to relax for a while, watch the ferries come and go and observe a motley selection of sea birds wheeling and diving. And I took a few photographs! Returning to London after the overnight stay at Abergele was a monumental drag, and my attempt to make it more interesting by planning a route through the farming area of north Wales was not very successful. Usually, I'm good at
interpreting maps and actually enjoy riding through winding back lanes, but the B5429, A494 and B5104 have very little merit! In general they are too narrow with high hedges, and demand at great deal of respect if safe riding is paramount, which it should be on roads like this! At one stage I was stuck behind a milk tanker for nearly four miles before finally passing it, only to find the driver's mate about five miles further up the road in an identical vehicle. Just not my day! After putting a total of nearly 800 miles on the VX800's odometer, I found fuel consumption practically identical to the bike I was continuously comparing it with - the eight-valve K100RS. Motorway riding at high cruising speeds returned about 4042mpg. Over twisting Welsh roads, with the bike pushed hard, the extremes were 46 to 52mpg. And ridden sensibly, it would be easy to squeeze over 50 miles out of each gallon of the cheapest unleaded. And as for oil, well, I didn't even need to top it up. These days it is difficult to find an out-and-out bad bike. Most motorcycles are good if they fulfil the role a rider asks of them. You name it and the VX can do it. A great town bike, it is also comfortable on the open road where its only restriction is the lack of fairing, though even that is a subjective point. Feel the need to scratch it along country lanes and the big V twin takes the frantic 'four' feeling out of high-speed cornering. The VX800 will do most things and this promotes it to one of the cheapest all- rounders on the road today. However, the two factors which make the bike special are the gorgeous V-twin motor allied to the super civilised shaft drive. So good, I could eat them. Personally, I would like to see a version of the bike with a half, or full, fairing and designer luggage cases. The latter might not be a problem, because I'm certain Krauser or Nonfango could come up with something. The VX has the perfect configuration, and engine characteristics to make it the best middleweight sports-tourer (or tourer) on the market. Mind you, it's not far short of being that already. If you are half way convinced, raid the petty cash, get down to your friendly Suzuki dealer quickly and steal one from him for an insignificant 4,999. VIC BARNES
VX Aritcle from the British Press
Motorcycle Rider - Jan/Feb '95
SUZUKI VX800 - THE NAKED TRUTH

Trevor Jones cocks a leg over the chairmans pride and joy. After years of thrashing up and down the country on a 650 Katana, Steve came to what at first sight may seem to be a curious decision. The VX 800 is a roadster with 803 cc, single overhead cam, 45 vee twin engine. Moreover it is naked; it has no fairing, not even the vestige of a flyscreen, but more of that later. The bike looks modern, and is extremely well finished with a no-nonsense brushed aluminium instrument panel and white faced speedo and tacho. It looked superb in its deep metallic red livery, fairly aggressive and very slim. It is liquid cooled but at a casual glance you would never suspect it. A tall, thin radiator hides behind the twin downpipes that hug the frame tubes. I am told this makes them a pain to keep clean. Suggestions of finning on the massive cylinder barrels are purely cosmetic. This brings us to the engine, which dominates both the looks and performance of the beast. As the manufacturers of God's own motorcycle will tell you, 45 vee twins blow every other configuration into the weeds when it comes to making a bike look how bikes ought to look. This is especially so if you then surround the cylinders with a waterjacket which makes them look even bigger. This is the sort of engine that generally ends up in a 'factory custom'(self contradictory phrase) Harley clone, and indeed Suzuki produce the VS 800 with this engine which is just that. It was perhaps quite brave of them to put it in frame with a passing resemblance to the latest naked Triumphs. It is a shame that having done so they haven't pushed the bike more vigorously because with one or two reservations I think this is a real winner. The first job was to take some pictures and this involved manoeuvring the bike on and off the centre stand. It is nice that it has one, unlike a number of recent models. Centre stands make life so much easier; manufacturers please note! The centre stand on this bike has the pivot well forward of the centre of gravity which makes for stability. This would mean that you would need to be a close relative of Hercules if it wasn't for the fact that Suzuki have cunningly added a long curved lever that you push against with your left foot. This technique caused me no trouble, but at 213 kg (468 lbs) the bike is no lightweight so people less strong may not find it so easy. The bike does also have a side stand and is provided with idiot-proofing in the form of a relay which cuts the engine if you try to put the bike into gear with the stand down. Much better than Kawasaki's gremlin infested system. Once on the centre stand the bike is certainly stable, but the side stand is another matter and I would recommend leaving the thing in gear to stop it rolling forward and falling over. Sitting astride the machine my first thought was "Can this really be an 800cc motorcycle?" It felt more like a 250 or a 400. It is very slim and the centre of gravity is so low that it feels light despite the enormous engine and the best part is that both my feet were flat on the floor.
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Since I am five foot seven with short legs that is a real bonus. The seat height is only 31 inches and the suspension gives an extra inch or two. Take note all those who, Like me, are vertically challenged'. Manoeuvrability, when parking is therefore dead simple. The bike has an electric fuel pump and the fuel should be turned on only when the bike is about to be ridden. Luckily the fuel tap is enormous and just under the seat on the left hand side. Turning to reserve is easy which is just as well because the bike just cuts out with no warning at all.
Starting the engine from cold on choke there were a number of undignified farts and pops but after about 30 seconds the choke, which is conveniently on the handlebars, can be released and the engine settles down into lovely deep but subdued uneven thump. So I pulled in the featherlight clutch, selected first gear with just the hint of a jolt and took off into the Northamptonshire countryside. The gearbox has a very short and positive action and is a joy to use. This is rather ironic really because once under way, most of the time you just don't need it. It means that the riding technique is largely a case of put it in top gear and leave it there. At least two of the five gears are completely unnecessary. The bike will pull away in second or even third. It is quite happy to burble along in top gear at thirty miles an hour with about 2,500rpm on the tacho. As soon as you can go you just open the throttle. The bike surges forward with a rush of power like someone just opened a floodgate. The soft burble then becomes a muted roar which is lost in the wind noise at about fifty. The best bit is that there is no discernible power band. From 2,500rpm through to the red line at 8,OOOrpm the engine pulls like a train all the way. Roll on acceleration from 30 to 110 wasn't measured but it was extremely rapid. It's not as if you get there quicker by using that wonderful gearbox either; believe me, I tried. It goes without saying that this machine encourages a riding style rather different from the average Japanese bike. Because it is pointless to change gear all the time you can concentrate on the best line through the bends, the other traffic, the scenery and anything else you feel like. The chassis geometry is a little curious; with a castor angle of 59 and a long 1,555 mm wheelbase I expected the bike to be very stable in a straight line but to sit up and understeer on corners. Not a bit of it. It may have something to do with the tyre configuration of 18" front and 17" rear. but at low speeds this bike is very lively and oversteers, and at respectable road speeds the handling is a joy; it goes where you point it and you can just think it round corners. Shutting the throttle in mid-bend doesn't phase it a bit. Shaft reaction? If you ride one of these shafties you will have to ask a BMW owner to explain the term to you. The OE Metzeler tyres felt sure footed at all angles of lean and I had no complaints. Steve says they react to cats eyes and don't feel so good in the wet, but these things are sometimes subjective and I had no opportunity to evaluate wet weather performance. In general then the handling of this bike is very good on the scale that puts the GSXR 750 at s*** hot. Initially I had my doubts about the single front disc brake even if it is a pretty massive affair. I needn't have worried; it is good enough to pull stoppies, but is progressive with plenty of feel. A nice touch is the reach adjustment on the lever; pity they didn't do the same on the clutch lever! The rear disc is adequate without being exceptional. Together they match well for safe and controlled braking, although the front can start to fade a little with repeated stops from high speed. Probably not something you would notice if you ride in the style the character of this bike encourages. After a few miles down some of my favourite local twisty bits I really started to enjoy myself. The front suspension is unadjustable but firm. The rear suspension is adjustable for pre-load and damping and is also on the firm side. This helps the bike to stick to the road like a Klingon but does give quite a supple ride, unlike the seat which is large enough for both rider and pillion but after a couple of hours is as comfortable as a plank.
The bike is not prone to engine vibes at any speed and the big well positioned mirrors give an excellent clear view at all times. If the seat was my first major grumble the only other one was that at any speed over eighty the rather 'sit-up' riding position combined with the lack of any wind protection puts a severe strain on the chest and arms. I feel that the looks of the bike might be spoilt by a large screen or fairing but perhaps a small fly screen would deflect the worst of the blast over the riders head. The other cure of course is just to slow down! The bike is at its best rolling along in top gear on twisty up and down country roads. This both enjoyable and relaxing, and the bike covers the ground deceptively rapidly. I was surprised how quickly I returned from Milton Keynes to Northampton, considering that I was only concerned with enjoying the ride and not trying to arrive rapidly. This is definitely a bike that encourages you to just switch into cruising mode, forget any deadlines and just start to have fun. All too soon you find you've arrived. So apart from BMF directors who like to go scratching when not trying to cover hundreds of miles in a weekend complete with wife and camping gear, who would own a bike like this? Well any one who wants a bike that looks good, is going to be easy to maintain, is fun to ride and economical (about 50mpg). Anyone who is considering buying a BMW should definitely test ride one of these; it does everything the Beemer does only it does it better and it costs less (a lot less). So now we come to the $64,000 (or in this case, about 5,000) question. Assuming I had the cash (which I haven't) would I buy one? The answer is a definite maybe. I love the idea and I like the bike but I would really need to try some others in the same price range, especially the Ducati M600 mini version of the delicious looking Monster 900. This is another longitudinal vee twin for around the same price. Anyone out there want me to test one for them?
September 1995 What Bike Review
September 1995 - What Bike? CLOSET HOOLIGAN
Suzuki's VX800 is a big twin with shaft drive, clean styling, excellent build quality and genuine, real-world competence. So why does everyone think it's so boring? Maybe it's time for a re-think, argues Kevin Raymond. For a bike that's been around for so long (since '88, if my increasingly defective memory serves me well) the VX hasn't exactly generated a huge amount of column inches in the specialist press. It hasn't even been slagged off, as such. If it got a test it was always given to the office junior, or written off as being too dull and safe to bother about. More often, though, it's just been quietly ignored. Well, I want to change all that. I want to make up for all those years of indifference by telling you now, straight, that the VX is only as boring as the person riding it. Which tells you more about us motorcycle hacks than we'd probably like you to know. Maybe the VX has a sort of negative force-field around it or, something. A couple of times people made comments I couldnt square with what I saw as perfectly obvious reality. John Westlake, Editor of Ride (see News pages), said, "What, you like it? I thought you hated all that custom stuff." And so I do, but not by any stretch of the imagination could you call the VX a custom. Closer questioning revealed he'd clocked the big, shiny engine and slightly kicked-out front end, and simply not looked any further - that was enough to get it filed in the pigeon-hole marked 'Custom Crap'. The other comment that came up from time to time was, "God, it's ugly." Is it? I keep looking at the pictures, and I think it looks lovely. Maybe I'm getting old or something, but the combination of lots of anodized alloy, just the right amount of chrome, and that deep cherry-red metallic paint is, as they say, a winner. From the rider's seat, too, it looks good. Those white-faced clocks are beautiful, especially lit up after dark (the headlight's good, too). They won't be showing any big numbers, either on the Speedo (120mph is your lot), or the tacho (even the lowly eight-five redline is somewhere you don't need to visit too often), but if there was a clock there too, it would show you don't need huge speed or revs to equal short journey times. What you need is smooth, consistent progress, and that's something the VX is good at. There are two reasons for this. Firstly, any twin is a good bet for the kind of backroad where you're continually rolling off the power and rolling it back on. Secondly, if the engine encourages that kind of style, the chassis demands it. Try and throw it around like a race replica and it'll fight back. The first time you try to brake hard, turn in and power out even harder, you won't get spat off, but you won't enjoy it either - the VX just ain't made that way. Instead, choose a line, knock off a little speed on the
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way in, then maintain that speed all the way to the apex before quickly but gently getting back to full throttle. Anyone who's ever been chased by a copper on an ill-handling BMW will know that's the way to ride fast on the road... The VX is one of those bikes that makes a lot of its tyres. It comes fitted with perfectly respectable Metzelers - state of the art ten years ago and still going strong. Again, they're not made for the kind of instant vertical- to-banked-over transition that modern sportsbikes have inherited from the race track, but they suit the VX's old-fashioned handling to a T. One thing that would be nice would be some more brakes. Ride the VX the way it likes, and the front brake's OK, but it's a bit suspect when it come to emergency stops. There's enough there, I suppose, but it's always nice to have even more... The engine's similar. It's perfectly good as it is, but a better pipe, a Dynojet kit and a bit of headwork could turn it into something special. Except, of course, that as far as I'm aware, nobody makes aftermarket bits for VXs because, as everyone knows, VXs are boring. Well, if boring means effortless pull out of corners in the real world, minimum time in the workshop, and maximum time pulling wheelies anywhere else, then boring's for me, thanks very much. Yes, wheelies. I wouldn't even have thought of trying, except the slightly grabby clutch took me by surprise a couple of times at junctions and away went the front wheel on its own. And that, M'Lud, is my defense...oops, sorry, wrong write-up. Anyway, after that, one wheel was frequently enough. That's one of the advantages of a softlytuned engine - it's not going to take you by surprise, and it tends to do just what it's asked, and no more. Of course, a lot of unlikely bikes can pull wheelies, or be forced to go round corners without misbehaving too badly. The difference with the VX is, it doesn't feel like you're asking it to do anything it doesn't want to. One baking hot Sunday a friend on a tuned Gilera single chased me the 100 miles back from a club race where we'd both been competing. The two bikes were even on top speed, but he had a job keeping up with the VX on the last, twisty, fifty miles or so. When we finally got home, he said, "Well, at least I've got the consolation that it must have been hard work to make that thing go so quick." But it wasn't. After a full day's racing and a long ride home he was absolutely shagged out. For me, courtesy of the VX's no-nonsense manners and comfy seat, the ride home was a chance to unwind and cool down, and I arrived home in a better mood than when I set out. You can't complain at that. What you can complain about is the strangely-raked-out front suspension. I suspect it was intended to make it more stable, but it actually does the reverse. At medium speeds, it's OK, but at close to top speed a slight weave sets in. It's not the usual twin-shock weave, coming from the rear, but just the front tyre contact patch wandering about. It doesn't get serious, but it does give an unpleasantly vague feeling at the bars. The same happens at crawling-through-town speeds. The other main irritation is a too-small fuel tank. Ride the VX with any kind of enthusiasm and you'll be reaching for the big, thick-glove-friendly fuel tap less than 100 miles from your last fill up. Economy isn't as good as it could be either - a worst of 37mpg and a one-off, driving carefully best of 49mpg. But none of these gripes really affected the final verdict. In two weeks and fifteen hundred miles I had a lot of fun on the VX, a few frustrations and a couple of very hairy moments. In between all that I had a lot of very ordinary, average, even (dare I say it?) boring miles simply going about my business. But it was the miles that were boring, not the bike. They'd have been dull on an Exup (and less comfortable). That's the thing about the VX. It's more or less
whatever you want it to be. If you want it to be a boring old slug - old farts' transport with no soul - it'll oblige. Take a more open-minded view, though, and the VX is as much fun as many faster bikes. If it had about twenty per cent more of everything except wheelbase and weight, it could be perfect all-round transport. But I could live with it just as it is. If only it was cheaper.
Kevin Raymond
Motorcycle International published Feb 1995.
Sensible shoes.
Suzuki's VX800 begs the question 'Just who the hell is it made for?' With this in mind, I cocked a leg over the seat of the V-twin roadster and set oft up the road to find out. Although Suzuki market it as a tourer, with no fairing it's not going to suit many people in that role. Hard luggage is available separately, and for flexibility, a tri-point fairing is easy enough to fit for the worst of the weather or longer journeys. However, the VX is really better described as a 'roadster', a ubiquitous term that's sallied forth in response to the surge of popularity for 'naked' bikes (witness the BMW R11OOR, Honda Big One, Triumph Speed Triple, etc). While this bike is no retro, it harks back to the days when bikes looked like bikes and when you could see the beating heart of the machine, the engine itself. The VX is powered by an SOHC, eight-valve, 45 degree V-twin lump that produces 62hp. Which gives the twin a top speed of 120mph. Its characterful beat lopes along at a lazy tempo that's really quite appealing. But don't be misled. It can turn the power on as and when you want it with a rush which while not being in the league of race reps, is deceptively invigorating. At 80mph, the VX gives a smooth ride. It delivers a usable combination of low down torque with power all the way through to high revs with no discernible power band. The VX800 engine (and the custom VS800) is actually the V5750 motor grown up -~3mm wider bore, lighter pistons, crank altered to reduce vibration, and 36mm carbs instead of 34mm. Which increases the power from 55hp at 7500rpm to 62hp at 6500rpm, and peak torque from 44.5ftlb at 5000rpm to 54.3ftlb at 5500rpm. The engine is water-cooled (don't be fooled by the pseudo fins on the barrels), but the tall radiator is tucked neatly between the front downtubes. A good point style wise as with no fairing the radiator is often overlooked and ends up looking an ugly spare part. Painted a tasteful gunmetal grey, the engine's more subtle than the shiny chrome of the factory custom V-twins. And because of the in-line motor the chassis can be kept very narrow which is a bonus for the handling. In fact the bike feels remarkably well balanced and manageable for its 468lb weight. Seat height isn't exactly lofty at thirty-one inches, and the low centre of gravity makes slower handling nicely predictable. At speed the bike just burbles happily along. While on the twisties the minimum of work gets it rolling rapidly round the bends. Although non-adjustable, the telescopic forks give a firm ride, as do the twin shocks, which are adjustable for pre-load only. As the VX is shaft-driven it definitely appeals to my lazy side, and luckily ease of maintenance is backed by a smooth transmission. The absence of any shaft reaction and a slick five-speed gearbox which rarely catches you in the wrong gear, make for trouble-free jaunts. Although the VX only boasts single discs fore and aft, braking is reasonably responsive due to the large 3l0mm disc up front and 250mm item at the rear. So it's not going to cost a fortune in pads either, a minor bonus but one nevertheless. The chromed headlight and brushed aluminium clocks with simple speedo and tacho are pleasantly free from excess. The switchgear is user-friendly as you'd expect from a modern bike, especially the huge fuel reserve dial
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on the left hand side panel. Some may find the black plastic headstock cover rather ugly, but the fluid lines of the 19-litre tank, side panels and tailpiece make up for it. The seat is plush enough without resembling a padded armchair like some tourers and customs, while the riding position is somewhere between tourer and sports bike. The VX is suited to long distances. Comfortably eating up the miles without straining the engine. But in the absence of a fairing your neck muscles may beg to differ. I also found the 'bars a touch low for distance riding; a set slightly higher would achieve a more comfortable sit-up touring position without sacrificing any of the country lane nippiness. With long bar end weights, I felt like I was gripping them too far up, which took some getting used to. Strange also that as this bike's being presented as a stylish machine Suzuki saw fit to stick such ugly 'slice-of-bread' mirrors on - functional they may be, good looking they're not. Pillions may also find the short grabrail a touch cramped. The sidestand is somewhat disconcerting, it leaves the bike standing practically upright, which takes some trusting. Put it this way - I wouldn't like to leave it parked in a strong wind. All the usual gubbins such as helmet locks, toolkit beneath the seat and luggage hooks have been remembered. Although the positioning of the hooks at the rear of the seat means that your luggage or bungees will end up scratching the bodywork. In the two weeks we had the VX, it was used on quite a few jaunts around the country including Derbyshire, North Wales, Teeside and Crawley, as well as the daily 30 mile slog through city traffic to work. It coped with every situation, and while not blowing my mind with excitement, in hindsight it helped make journeys enjoyable. Come rain or shine it's a bike that gets you from A to B with the minimum of fuss. The VX is truly something different to come out of the Japanese stables, which to my mind is a rare occurrence in these days of standardisation. At around five grand give or take, it's not an expensive bike, especially when you consider the decent fuel economy (55mpg), relatively simple engine and shaft drive. Although the VX is not one of those bikes that sets your heart on fire, it tends to sneak in and stake a more permanent place in your affections. It'll also give you something in common with the BMF Chairman, Steve Bergman, too.
Motorcycle International, February 1995. Words by Karen Tait, Photos By Garry Stuart.
The VX800 MotorCycle Mechanics Review
Motorcycle Mechanics - 1996 REAL CHARACTER

Italian V-twins fans may scoff, but the Japanese-built VX800 challanges the theory that only European bikes have the monopoly on 'character'. Brian Tarbox liked it, a lot. Pictures by Mike Capps.
Remember the TR1 ? It was a bit odd looking and drank to much, but the samecould be said of many of my friends. Yamaha launched the 981cc V-Twin cruise in 1981 after their market reaearchers reported that an increasing number of touring riders were growing bored with across-the-frame fours. Lesson number one: Don't believe what people tell market researchers. The TR1 wasn't a bad bike but hardly anyone bought it. Since its demise, the only big capacity V-twin roadsters to roll off Japanese assembly lines have been dripped in chrome and custom-clad for saleto weekend rebels who prefer the taste of supermarket cola to 'The Real Thing.' Except for Suzuki's VX800. It crept into the UK showrooms five years ago and is still hanging in there despite sales which would allow an owners club meeting to be held in a telephone box. Like the TR1, its a Japanese interpreation of of a European classic with the emphasis on character rather than performance. The result is a cross between a Ducati Darmah and a R80 BMW with a dash of 1000S Guzzi on the side. The VX is neither fast nor flash but it is undeniably handsome and different enough to stand out from the crowd in any bike park. And, yes, it does have real character, something that makes it one of the most enjoyable bikes on the road at 85mph even it does feel awful at anything much over 100.
Its watercooled engine is a revamped version of one used in the highly acclaimed VS750 Intruder - the shaft frive custom generally accepted to have been the best 'Japanese Harley' of the 80's.
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For its new role in the VX, the motor was bumped up to 805cc. The remainder of its spec remained much the same with overhead cams, four valves per cylinder, twin swirl combustion chambers and a pairing of side and downdraught 36mm Mikunis providing the carburation. The engine also mirrored the appearence of the donor unit with its cyclinders spread-eagle at 45 degrees and deeply finned to mimmic the look of an air cooled classic. Inside,however, the duel crankpins were offset at 75 degrees in a move, combined with the use of lighter pistons to reduce vibration. Its an exercise that has worked so well I find it hard to believe that mechanical balancers are not also in on the act. That's not to say that the V comes even close to the inherent smoothness of a multi-cylinder machine. Blip the throttle as you sit at the traffic lights and you are aware of a slight buzz through the stylish 4.2. gallon tank. Fortunately this never develops into anything more than an unobtrusive background sensation which actually enhances its appeal. As does the exhaust note. One of the pleasures of V-twin ownership is the distinctive tune produced by off-kilter firing cycle. Good news for music lovers is that despite stringent noise controls Suzuki still emits a deep throated bark. In fact it sounds a lot more virile than it is. Maximum power is a modest 63bhp at 6500rpm and with petrol it weighs more than 500 lbs. Those figures obviously don't register very high on the thrillometer, but the VX is in its element bowling along 'A' roads at 85/90mph - the maximum speed sustainable over long distances on any unfaired motorcycle. Thats where its character shines through. The sound and feel of the motor delivers an emotional charge sadly missing in may four cyclinder machines. Getting the VX up to its 115mph top speed is another matter. Even the slightest headwind stops you in your tracks at 100mph. In other words - forget it. Still, the Suzuki is no lumbering slouch and accelerates quite rapidly when revved hard through the gears. There is no powerband to dictate that it must be hammered in this way - piling on the revs in the lower ratios merely makes things happen faster. Power is fed to the rear wheel by a drive shaft smooth enough to be mistaken for a chain 99% of the time but sometimes, just sometimes, the pick up in first is accompanied by a kick in the pants. The shaft also manifests itself in mid-corner when the power is backed off. This makes the bike want to sit up - so don't back off ! I was tempted to run the bike harder through the gears than most owners will find necessary and paid the penalty at the pumps. Tankfull after tankfull of unleaded checked against the milage produced the same result, a not very impressive 43mpg. Although primitive by contemporay standards, the rolling chassis is as good as it needs to be. The frame is a tubular cradle sprung by firmly braced but non adjustable 41mm teles and a pair of shocks with 5 pre-load settings and 4 levels of damping. At 16 stone (whena Bass going to introduce 1 cal Bitter ? ) I found the ride quality a little harsh. Too many road shocks found their way through to my dainty frame and scarred tarmac had bike shuffling its feet like a nervous schoolboy. A high centre of gravity, accentuated by a tall seat height, means that the bike sometimes has to be pulled back after dropping too deep into corners. This takes a little bit of getting used to as you juggle between oversteer and understeer, but is soon mastered once you tune yourself into the machines feel.
Unfortunatley the brakes are not up to an emergency stop crisis. The rear disc is excellant but its front wheel partner needs the help of another rotor alongside it. And while on the subject of improvements, a firmer and more suppoertive seat would be welcome in making high milage journeys less of a pain in the butt. Despite its flaws, the VX is still a very enjoyable motorcycle to ride at a relaxed easy pace that will appear to more mature riders.
SPECIFICATION (UK) ENGINE: Watercooled 45 degree V-twin four stroke with four valves per cylinder and ohc. Bore and stroke 83 X 74.4mm. Capacity 805cc. Compression ratio 10:1. Carburation 36mm side and downdraught Mikunis. Maximum power 63bhp at 6500rpm. TRANSMISSION : Five speed gearbox, wet multiplate clutch, final drive shaft. CHASSIS: Tubular steel cradle frame with tubular steel swingarm. Non adjustable 41mm front forks, twin rear shocks
with adjustable spring pre-load, compression amd rebound damping. Brakes - single 310mm front disc with twin-piston caliper. Five spoke wheels, Tyres : Metzler 110/80x18 front. 150/70x17 rear. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES: Fuel capacity 19 litres (4.18gallons). Dry weight 213kg (470 lbs), wheelbase 1555mm (61.2inches). Seat height 795mm (31,2 inches) PRICE 5599 (+plus 250 on the road charges) Warranty is 2 years unlimited milage.
Suzuki VX800 Review--April 1997
Minnesota Motorcycle Monthly

April 1997
Suzuki VX800
by Victor Wanchena
VX800: Suzuki's Other Sporty V-Twin

"Where have all the standards gone?" This is the question many riders and motor journalists have been asking for the past few years. Manufacturers have forsaken the all-purpose, do everything bikes for machines that focus on particular groups of riders. Most models in the showrooms are geared for all-out performance or for cruiser styling, but there are some riders out there who enjoy a machine that blends both of these characteristics--sort of a modern CB750 that you can ride comfortably for a week at a time and still have power and handling. This was the type of machine many people were asking for in the late 1980s, and Suzuki listened. Suzuki conducted surveys in the U.S. and found that many people wanted what used to be called the Universal Japanese Motorcycle or UJM. Suzuki followed the UJM formula and introduced the VX800 in 1990 for $4,600. Well okay, it was not exactly a UJM, because Suzuki opted to use an enlarged version of the Intruder 750's V-twin engine in place of the UJM's traditional four-cylinder.
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The VX800's motor is bored out to 805cc from an original 750cc. It features a 45 degree angle between the cylinders and chain driven dual overhead cams that work the four valves per cylinder. The fuel is fed by two 36mm carbs, and the exhaust is channeled by a two into two system. The transmission is a five-speed with a wet clutch that features a torque limiter on down shifts to help reduce rear wheel hop. A shaft handles the final drive. The frame is round steel tubing in a double downtube configuration, but it also uses the engine as a stressed member for greater chassis rigidity. To keep the bike narrow the swing arm is mounted on the outside of the frame. The wheelbase is a full sized 61.4 inches with a 31.5 inch seat height, which, while sounding tall, is actually okay for shorter folks due to the narrow width of the bike. The forks are 41mm conventional style and raked at 31 degrees for stability at highway speeds. They lack adjustment provisions. Two shocks suspend the rear with spring preload and rebound dampening adjustments. Front and rear brakes are both single discs with two-piston calipers. The wheels are five spoke cast jobs, and tires? It came stock with Metzler ME33 Lazer front and ME55 Metronic rear. The fuel tank holds 5 gallons total with a one gallon reserve. Enough with the specs. I have owned my VX for two years now, and here is my "seat of the pants" evaluation. I am a very big boy. At 6'8" and 330 pounds, I am bigger than Goliath (for you biblical scholars), and I fit on the VX! The foot pegs are low and far enough forward for the stilts I call legs. The handle bars rise nicely to meet your arms, but still pull you forward enough to fight the wind comfortably at highway speeds. The seat feels so very nice for the first 50 miles of the day, but then it begins to make the old hinder ache something fierce. The first thing I bought for the bike was a saddle from the fine folks at Corbin, and man, did that make the difference. It is wider and firmer than the stock seat, and I am comfortable as far as my fuel will last.
When it comes to handling I'm no Steve McQueen, but I have been known to scrape a footpeg now and again. The forks are beefy enough to handle the extra load I put on them fairly well, but they are still on the soft side of perfect, and the lack of adjustments does not help matters. They do have a tendency to bottom on really hard stops, so a pair of stiffer springs and heavier fork oil would certainly help things. The rear shocks are a different story altogether especially if you crank the dampening up to the highest setting. They do a fine job of soaking up most bumps and keeping the rear end planted in the corners. I have never really had problems with the rear end jacking during corners because of the shaft drive...even if I am silly enough to play with the throttle mid-lean. The brakes are just fine. They're not strong enough to be doing stoppies and impressing the guy in the Pinto wagon next to you, but they're certainly strong enough to keep you out of trouble. They probably would benefit from steel braided lines to firm them up and give them a more linear feel. All of this is nothing without a motor. What a motor! The engineers knew that nothing impresses more than good old fashioned acceleration. Now the VX will not scream off the line, but its lower gearing and its bottom end torque give phenomenal roll on times. It even outruns real big dogs like the VFR750 or the ZX11 from 45 to 70 mph in the top two gears. You do pay the price for this monster bottom end with high engine speeds on the highways, but the motor still feels smooth and is happy despite pulling about 4000 rpm at 60 mph. The beauty of the VX800 is that power comes in the door low where the average rider can get the most use from it. Half way through passing a semi when a second truck carrying jet fuel comes up over the top of the hill you are currently climbing? Don't worry. (Hey, it happened.) Does the VX sound like your kind of machine? Here's the sad part of the story. The VX800 was only built from 1990 to 1993 and had poor sales. It has developed something of a cult bike status like the Hawk 650 or TDM 850. Nonetheless, if you look around you can find them used in the 2000-2500 dollar range. If you are really lucky you may find one still sitting in a dealer's showroom in-between the pop machine and the display of three foot sissy bars left over from the seventies.
M.M.M.
* This review originally appeared in the April 1997 issue of Minnesota Motorcycle Monthly.
VX800 Reviews
The Riders Tales
1991 Suzuki VX800: 1

Standard type, 800cc V-Twin, Water cooled, Shaft Drive Color: Black Price Paid: $2700 U.S. History: I bought the VX in January of 1998 in Orange County, California, and have put 3,400 miles on it in 9 months. The bike had 7,800 miles when purchased and had not been modified. Modifications: Progressive (Brand) fork springs, $45, Metzler ME-Z1 tires, Approx. $220 for both. Opinion: I'd been interested in the VX since I saw one on the showroom floor when they first came out. But, until recently, I'd had no need for another bike. After moving to Ventura, and doing a lot of riding on the mountain roads nearby (especially Highway 33 north of Ojai) my old Yamaha XS1100 Special seemed to be lacking in the handling department. Finally, after reading everything I could find about them, including reviews posted here, I took the plunge. No regrets at all. The VX is a very good do-everything bike. After changing the fork springs and installing radial tires it makes quite a good canyon bike. It won't, of course, keep up with a dedicated sport bike on very tight roads. But, the strong midrange power make this an easy bike to ride fast. Just put it in top gear and ride the fat torque curve. Between 40 and 80 MPH ample power is available. The radial tires made a spectacular improvement in handling. When cornering hard, the tires feel glued to the pavement, and aren't disturbed by surface irregularities. The chassis is quite stiff. This bike has a lot of rake and trail, and so, won't "flik" in the manner of a radical sport bike. It's better suited to the knee-tucked-in, smooth arc style of riding. On straight roads, the slight forward lean is comfortable up to about 70 MPH for an hour or two. For more extended travel time or higher sustained speed, a windshiend would be appropriate, as is the case with most Standard style bikes. I' ve been getting 42-44 miles per gallon in mixed sport/commuting riding, giving a range of about 200 miles. Unlike my old bike the VX displays no drive shaft induced handling aberrations. Cautions: The stock seat is a bit soft for extended trips (2 hours or more). The stock fork springs are way too soft, but easily fixed. Name: Steve Davis (SDSD@west.net)
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VX800 Reviews
1991 Suzuki VX800: 2

Description: (Standard) 805cc Standard, 5 speed transmission, shaft drive Color: Red Pricing: Amount paid: $3350 History: I just purchased this bike three weeks ago. I haven't even ridden it yet! (The weather's been lousy). When I started looking for this bike, I decided to get ahold of the VX800 rider's network. I asked if anyone knew of any VX800's for sale in my area (Massachusetts). Jesse Murphy (who runs the network) gave me the name of a dealer in Maine who still had a new 1991 in stock! I went up to look at it and bought it on the spot. I picked it up two weeks later. My point here is that these things are still out there, brand new. Mine has 175 miles on the clock and still has a twelve month, unlimited mileage Suzuki warranty. Not bad for $3350. Comments about the bike: I did notice that the front end is pretty soft and that even walking the bike, most of the suspension is used up in braking. I think I'll probably change those fork springs over the summer. The day I picked it up, it was damned close to zero and made a three hour trip in the back of an open pickup. When I took it out of the truck, I started it to run some STA-BIL through it. It took some doing to get the thing to start, even with the choke wide open. Modification: Nothing yet. Opinion: At this point, I can't really offer much of an opinion, except for the fact that these bikes offer great value. Consider what a 1991 Nighthawk 750 with 175 miles would have cost and realize that you'd have to step up to an 1100 to get the VX's top gear roll on acceleration. Cautions: Can't say at this point From: Craig Fitzgerald Date: Mon Jan 27 12:13:41 PST 1997
1990 Suzuki VX800 sport-touring:

Suzuki started making this bike in 1989. Description: It is a rather standard street bike with some modern touches. It has a moulded rear light assembly that is somewhat modern. The front is very standard with the exception of some LARGE fork tubes. The 90 model was a beautiful Burgundy. The 92's were Purple (ugh) and the 93's are red. The specs are: 805 cc 45 degree V-twin Water cooled Shaft drive 4 Valves/head Front fork, rear swing arm Good Stock Tires (Metzeler's) Upright riding posture. Pricing: I paid $4000 for mine new (in 1993) with the optional sculpted seat and luggage rack/back rest. 1993 models with no options are starting at $4700. History: I've had the bike for 4 months. I have no complaints. None. Well, one. I would like for the helmet lock to not be under the seat, and for the
VX800 Reviews
seat to be hinged, not lift off. OK, that's two things. She starts and runs reliably every day. She's a little cold blooded, but a good warm up period sorts it all out. The oil is a breeze to change. Like I said, no problems. Modifications: I bought the bike with Suzuki's optional sculpted seat. This is a big improvement over the stock. Not only does it dress up the bike, but is MUCH more comfortable. I also got the optional luggage rack/ back rest combo. This adds a little more style and more utility for the bike. I would like to add a fairing and saddlebags to complete the look. Opinion: I can't rave enough about this bike. Despite it's long wheel base, the VX800 handles far better than you would expect. She's a dream in the twisties. The engine delivers a ton of torque. More torque than I need. Whack open the throttle and you're gone. This bike has tons of low end umph. I also think that it is very stylish. The bike does not suffer from excessive vibration at any speed. You can feel the engine, but instead of a numbing buzz, it is a low throb of power. The exhaust note on the stock pipes is music to my ears. It is quiet enough to please the fussiest of neighbours, but low and rumbly enough to sound good. This is a bike for people who want a sport bike but need a commuter. You get sport bike handling and cruiser comfort. It doesn't get better than this. Cautions: So far, no glaring problems to be concerned about. I will update as needed. Name: Mike Weaver
================================================================== 1992 Suzuki VX800 (Standard) Description: Comfortable and economical standard styled motorcycle. Capable of both city and highway duty. It's equipped with low maintenance features like a drive shaft and electronic (digital) ignitions. Fast where it counts, plenty of low and midrange power. Passing is just a throttle twist away, no downshifting required. (Just as fast Top-gear acceleration, in the 40 to 60mph range, as my friends GSX1100G.) Specifications: (Suzuki's Brochure) Engine - 805cc, four stroke, 8 valve, SOHC, liquid cooled, 45 degree V-twin, twin carburettors, valve adjustment via screw and lock nut. Drive Train - 5 speed transmission, Shaft final drive Tires - Front 110/80-18, Rear 150/70-18 Brakes - Front single disk, Rear single disk Fuel Capacity - 5.3 gal. (19.0 litres) Dry Weight - 470 lbs. (213 kg) Colour - Black with blue metal-flake suspended in the clearcoat (very pretty) Pricing: I purchased a new 1992 model in 1993 for $3,800.00 including the optional sport fairing (Similar in looks to the GS500 fairing). Also as part of the deal, I required that the dealer exchange the wheels/tires with a new 1991 model on the show room floor. Dunlops were on the '92, Metzelers were on
VX800 Reviews
the '91. This exchange was not a result of any known shortcomings of the Dunlops, it was more a desire to have a tire that I have been very pleased with in the past. History: I have owned this bike for almost two years. I consistently receive 47 to 50 MPG when touring. With 2100 miles on the bike it has proven quite dependable. All I have had to do is change is the oil and filter. As noted in the previous review, the non-hinged, must remove to reach the helmet hooks, seat is a nuisance. Overly lean carburettion, limp fork springs and a delayed reaction front brake were the only areas that have needed upgrading. Other changes I have made have been made solely for personal ergonomic/ascetic reasons. See the modifications sections for details. Modifications: CARBURETTION; It used to take 10 minutes or more for this bike to warm up when the ambient temperature was in the 40 to 50 degree (F) range. The dealer would not correct this, citing something about emissions. I then sough out the help of Shawn at DynoJet, (406) 388-4993. DynoJet did not have a kit specific to the VX800, but had one available for the VS800 (Intruder). Shawn provided me with a free sample if I agreed to test it on my VX800. As the motors are the same I saw no harm in trying the kit. It is a straight forward installation which took about 3 hours to complete. (a mechanic could probably do it faster). I don't know if it is any quicker, but the bike has crisp throttle response with no hint of a lean surge. It now warms up enough to ride without using the choke within a couple of blocks at the same temperatures. SUSPENSION; Stopping quickly would cause the front to dive and use up all the available suspension travel. Add in a bumpy road surface and their would not be enough suspension to prevent bottoming. I installed Progressive Suspension, (619) 948-4012, fork springs and 12.5 weight fork oil. Problem cured, not too firm, offers more front end control. Spring installation is easy, you don't have to remove the handlebars and takes about .5 hour. The thing that takes time is changing the fork oil, the VX800 forks have no provision for draining the oil. Yes that's right, you must remove the fork legs. Time consuming. You may want to leave the existing 10 weight oil in. BRAKES; Stopping requires a firm pull and feels spongy too. I installed a Russell Performance Products, (310) 595-7523, brake line based on experience with an other bike. I now have improved stopping power and greater break control. It is a simple installation, however, it requires a brake fluid change. Allow a couple of hours. ASCETIC CHANGES; It looks like Suzuki went to some effort to minimise the appearance of the radiator. So I don't know why they used chrome screws on the radiator cowl. You can exchange these some of the black ones used in other locations on the motorcycle. I found some under the side panels. I also fabricated some "L" shaped brackets to move the turn signals closer to the bike. The reflectors that hang down between the bottom of the seat and top of the rear tire can be easily bent out of view to clean up this area. A little black spray paint can also be used to de-emphasise the passenger peg/muffler
VX800 Reviews
supports. Opinion: Over all I am very pleased with this machine. It's a large motorcycle, with plenty of room to spread out or carry a passenger. Although I am by no means an expert, this is my 9th motorcycle and I would feel confident recommending it anyone looking for a dependable standard, sport touring motorcycle. Cautions: Pretty minor stuff. The VX800's has a small foot on the end of the sidestand, watch out for soft ground or asphalt on hot days. If your doing much all weather touring, I would suggest a different fairing. Suzuki's sport fairing does not offer the protection from wind/rain you might desire. Notes: Fram Filters are stocked and available (in my area at Al's Auto Supply) for several dollars less than the dealer's filter (which wasn't even a Suzuki part). Reference Materials: Here are some magazine articles if you want more information. Cycle World / Feb. 1990 - New for 1990, Suzuki VX800 Cycle World / July. 1990 - Standard Time (compares 10 standards) Motorcyclist / Sept. 1990 - A kinder, gentler Every-V for Everyman. Road Rider / Nov. 1990 - Great All-Around, Easy-To-Live-With Member Of The Family Rider (now called Motorcycle Consumer News) / Aug. 1991 - Project Victor X-Ray Motorcyclist / Sept. 1991 - Colorado Staff Tour (see Holst's sidebar) Road Rider / Nov. 1991 - Project VX, Building A Budget Tourer Cycle World / May 1993 - Super Standards (compares 11standards) Cycle World / Aug. 1993 - Letters, To the VX800's rescue Name: Ron Lotton, Olympia, Washington, USA (Ronl@dis.wa.gov) =====================================================================
1993 Suzuki VX-800 (Standard)

Technical description: The VX-800 was made and sold from 1990 through 1993. It is a basic street bike, powered by Suzuki's outstanding water-cooled, 45-degree 800cc V-twin engine from the VS-800 Intruder (cruiser bike) series. Relatively little maintenance is required due to the use of a shaft drive and electronic ignition. The engine has chain driven, double overhead cams, four valves per cylinder ( 2 intake - 2 exhaust) with lock nut adjusters, and balance shafts. carburettion is via two 38mm Mikunis. The front carburettor a downdraft model, while the rear carburettor is a sidedraft model. The transmission is a five-speed. Shift linkage is a little odd, since the engine was designed for the VS-800 cruiser bike. The shift lever is located normally, but a long rod and joint assembly are required to reach the shift shaft located toward the front of the engine cases. Another oddity is that the rear swingarm/driveshaft is mounted outboard of the frame's rear downtubes. Most standard bikes mount the swingarm inboard of the downtubes. This is another relic of the engine's cruiser origins. Suspension is typical, with twin forks up front and twin rear shock absorbers. My bike has tubeless Dunlop tires, which work well, on magnesium allow wheels. Older models used Metzeler tires.
VX800 Reviews
Description: I believe the bike was marketed with three basic colours: blue, red, and black. Mine is a black one. It has blue metalflake particles in the gelcoat, which is very attractive when viewed at the right angle in sunlight. The bike is rather softly sprung in front and bottoms easily on sharp bumps. On the other hand, the freeway ride is very plush. Most people upgrade the front fork springs to Progressive units. The rear shocks seem to work quite well. The seat is well-shaped, though thinly padded. I don't take many long trips, but those who do often upgrade the seat. Some people complain of a spongy feel to the front brakes and a tendency to be cold-natured. I have experienced neither problem. The climate in Houston is very mild, which may explain the absence of coldnatured problems (although we can and do get infrequent spells of freezing weather). Vibration at any RPM is well controlled by the counter-balancers in the engine. Anyone who has every ridden a Harley 883 Sportster (as I have) can really appreciate the difference. After an hour or so on the road, I have noticed that there must be a high-frequency vibration that gets to my right hand. Nothing that some gloves and/or a rest stop can't fix. The water-cooled engine is a big advantage here in Texas, where temperatures hover between 90 - 95 degrees most of the summer. Fuel mileage is surprisingly good. I get 38 - 40 MPG around town and have consistently seen 52 - 55 MPG on the freeway at sane speeds. Unfortunately, Texas raised the speed limits a while back and freeway speeds are no longer sane (the sign says 70 MPH, so it must mean 80 MPH). Oil consumption is zilch. Because of the temperatures here, I am running Valvoline 20W50 racing oil. Pricing: These bikes are still available, but not in great numbers. I lucked out and found a VX800 pretty soon after I decided I wanted one. Stubbs Suzuki, here in Houston, actually had a brand new 1993 model on their showroom floor last year (I told you they didn't sell well). They wanted $4800, although I felt I could argue them down to about $4200. That's still too much (in my opinion) for a bike that is a 3 year old model as soon as you drive it out the door. Consequently, I kept my eyes open for a clean, used model. I bought my 1993 model from a Houston police officer in July 1995. It had sat up most of the year in his garage and only had 2500 miles. I got it for a very reasonable (I think) $3200. History: Although the bike ran well for awhile after I bought it, the previous year of inactivity took its toll. I soon had to take the bike into the local Suzuki dealer to get the carbs decrudded and the vacuum shutoff valve on the tank replaced. Since then, the bike has run like a champ. I now have about 6,000 miles on it. In my mind, it has two outstanding features. First, it seems to be dead reliable. Second, the engine has an incredible torque curve. Roll-ons in top gear at speeds above 55 MPH are like lighting an afterburner. I am too old (52) to be a real hotrodder, but I have cracked the throttle open when entering a freeway ramp at 60 MPH and found myself doing 90 by the time I was merging (?) with the main lanes. Man, that's impressive (and scary)! Modifications: I haven't really made any substantial modifications. Genuine Suzuki and after-market accessories are well nigh impossible to order because the bike did not sell well. I was able to obtain a Suzuki rack and mini-backrest from a used parts dealer here in Houston. I had a medium sized fairing left over from my 1977 Yamaha RD-400. It isn't supposed to fit the VX-800, but works out quite well. I am probably going to switch to Progressive front fork springs one day, but haven't done it yet. Otherwise, I am a happy camper! Opinion: This is undoubtedly the best bike I have owned. It has few flaws (mainly the soft springs and thin seat). It's hard to believe it was a marketing flop. I can only surmise it came out when everyone either wanted a cruiser bike or a crotch-rocket repli-racer. Standards were apparently out of vogue. The only other bikes I
VX800 Reviews
even thought about buying were (1) BMW's 750cc flat triple - too expensive (2) Yamaha's TDM-850 - also too expensive (3) Honda's 750cc Nighthawk - motor too wide and a greasy chain. My main concern now is, if I ever wear the VX800 out, where do I find something this good to replace it. Fortunately, I feel it will hang together for a long time. Cautions: Other than the previously mentioned soft front end and slightly thin seat, I have no cautions to pass on. John Hutchins (jehutchi@ghgcorp.com)
Used Motorcycle Guide 87
Used MotorCycle Guide

Suzuki VX800
Strange vee-twin gets under the skin
The VX800 looked immaculate despite being nearly three years and 9000 miles old. Garaged during winter, only ridden in the sun by a born-again poseur - an old rhyme but one in this particular case that came without any apparent riddles. Two grand for cash, the newly bankrupt owner demanded. After the shortest of blasts I didn't have the heart to demur. Love at first sight and all that stuff. The beefy, 805cc, watercooled vee-twin engine had its roots in the Intruder customs but didn't seem to suffer any from its lack of sporty specification. Many might think 60 horses from 800cc pretty pathetic but the go-go juices peak at a mere 6500rpm. Backed up by 55ft-lb of torque 1000 revs lower down the range. A five speed gearbox was mated with a shaft drive that was eons ahead of the junk fitted to BMW's, and the like, but not quite the slick shifter found on chain driven Suzukis. Nothing to worry about, though, just a comment on how well this particular manufacturer makes gearboxes in their more sporting models. So this was grunt city. The machine was also very narrow, lacking the top heavy feel of many fours. It was a bike that could be leapt on and quickly become used to its ways. Neutrality in its steering was immediately inspiring and within a quarter of an hour of purchase I was pushing the bike hard through my favourite Wiltshire back lanes. It certainly needed a bit of muscle, but had a similar steady feel to a well set-up Norton Commando. The chassis was burdened with an excess of mass (nearly 500lbs fully tanked up) and a peculiarly long wheelbase. Added up to some effort on the bars but resulted in a very sure-footed feel. It all depends on what you like and what you're used to - those into flighty race replicas would soon be complaining, with both the heavy handling and the lack of top end. Overall performance was no better than a sixties Triumph Bonneville (which weighed a 100lbs less), though the Suzuki had more low end grunt and didn't churn out the vibration, even if I could always feel the mill working through the combustion process. The bike felt best in the 75 to 95mph speed range perfectly suited, that is, to UK road speeds. The front end felt a bit loose above the ton and the engine had a rather plaintive note. 120mph on the clock was possible, probably 110mph in real life. This all sounds reasonable enough, even jolly good fun. Where the engine really lost out was on
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economy. Or lack thereof. The really strange thing was that even the mildest of throttle work didn't really improve its frugality compared to using all the torque and power all the time - 45mpg compared with 40mpg. The four gallon tank capacity barely seemed sufficient for serious riding but was better than the comfort afforded by the seat. The latter began to rub into my thighs after about 80 miles and went rock hard 40 miles later. Ouch! I couldn't blame the riding position for this - bars and pegs were perfectly matched for sensible riding, taking a lot of weight off my backside. The suspension wasn't exactly plush but it took out most of shocks but could rumble over closely spaced mild bumps. Either wear to the foam or plain bad design of the saddle let the side down. Placing a pullover between self and saddle did wonders for my comfort, though the concave shape of the seat meant it was extremely difficult to move around to find a plusher perch. My short of leg pillion had no problems but some six foot babe would doubtless soon be cursing. Unluckily, I don't know any women with legs up to their armpits so never tested this theory but if any female readers want to volunteer... A spate of wet weather had me wondering how the Avons would react (having fallen off on similar tyres before) but with a little attention to the rate of throttle opening the bike rumbled along quite securely. For such a pose vehicle, the mudguarding was surprisingly good - along with the long, narrow radiator, most of the muck was kept off the engine. Twin rear shocks, that never annoyed me, were also to the good with regards to the lack of linkages to wear, tear apart and service. I added gaiters to the forks to keep them in their pristine state as I had no intention of locking the bike away over the winter. The one area where the Suzuki was a bit lacking was in its braking. A disc at each end, 9000 miles of wear had the pads almost down to the metal. I assume they were original. There was a lot of rattling, the odd squeal, and not a lot of braking from 80mph plus speeds. I would've preferred a drum rear brake, the calipers already becoming a little gummed up and not wanting to liberate the pads. WD40 solved that PDQ. A new set of EBC pads all round got rid of all the odd noises. If I'd waited much longer they would have broken through to the metal with the inevitable score marks in the discs. The new pads were much more predictable in the wet but didn't add that much extra retardation from high speeds. Two thousand miles later the front brake went very spongy. Goodridge hose and new brake fluid were added, got rid of the disconnected feel and would make the tyre squeal at low speeds if I put in a full power grip on the lever. High speed retardation was still marginal, especially when going for it in the faster curves. If the forks showed any sign of wear then I would look around for a complete, twin disc front end replacement. I managed to nick the finish on the front wheel whilst playing around with the brake; in no time at all alloy corrosion had spread all over the place. Low quality alloy kept in check by a high tech finish, but it does boggle the mind a little when you think how essential the wheels are and the way the Japanese insist on cost-cutting even when they sell bikes at prime prices. Do alloy wheels suffer from aluminium stress-aging? Don't know, only time will tell!
Some 17,400 miles into the game, the front light blew. I was 50 miles from home at the time, not amused when pilot, main and dip beams went down. I followed a car most of the way back, wasn't stopped by the cops. Turned out to be a loose wire in the headlamp shell. All was well for a couple of weeks until the fuses started to blow, went as quickly as I could put them in. Went to the local dealer who diagnosed a faulty rectifier; told me I'd better get it fixed fast before the ignition was ruined as well. He quoted silly money, I bought a used unit from the breakers for forty notes. For a month or so the problem went away, then I had hassles with the battery draining off overnight. I really wasn't sure how far the bike would take me without cutting out. This was extremely annoying, spoilt the great sense of fun I had when using the Suzuki. It was probably one of the alternator coils burning out, but I began to lose interest in it; didn't clean the bike every week. By the time 20,000 miles were done it was looking slightly sorry for itself and draining the battery within 70 miles. A quick clean up and trawl around the dealers - three grand trade-in on a new 1200 Bandit. The big Suzuki is another world. Splendidly fast and full of torque but I'm not too keen on the handling, although the bike weighs about the same it is much more top heavy in feel. I'll get used to it! The VX's full of character, a bike to keep for a long time...if you can find one without any electrical problems. I may well buy another, newer, example. Charlie Hopkins
umg on-line
UMG - April 97 Review
UMG issue 97 Feb/Mar 2000.
Brilliant white light flooded the garage in which stood the Suzuki VX8OO. Immaculate Conception didn't come into it! That kinda sickle. Sick in its way, a five year old with just 7000 miles on its clock. Looked every inch as if it had just stepped out of the showroom. Even the tyres were new but original fare. Some people. The test ride revealed that it was a bike full of character. A luscious vee-twin of the old school, revelling in torque rather than power and getting most of its kicks over by 6000rpm. A strangely elongated motorcycle, it could usefully have lost six inches off its wheelbase, but it threw a good bit of stability into the mix and the relatively lowly mounted engine, narrow in aspect, meant that it could be controlled without excessive muscle. The deal came down to the price, which was excessive, but with a bit of bargaining and having the notes on me, meant that I ended up paying two grand instead of the three originally demanded. It had been in the papers for couple of months, so desperation was probably setting in. I rode home with the biggest grin you could imagine, finding it hard to believe that so little money could go so far in motorcycle terms. The big rumbling vee was quite invigorating, somewhat at odds with its chassis which was best described as stately in its dynamics. About half a mile from the house reality hit home - hard! At a junction the engine made some odd noises, then spluttered and stalled dead. A big vee-twin doesn't gently come to a halt but crunches fiercely. Made me think the engine had actually seized. Black of heart and dark of spirit. I was well relieved when she spun over fluidly on the starter. It didn't catch for a couple of minutes, when she did it was on the front cylinder first. Discordant and vibratory until the back cylinder finally chimed in. I wound the throttle open to tell her who was boss and things soon settled down again.Made it back home, then she conked out and didn't want to start. At this point it dawned on me that I might've bought a lemon. A spark plug swap didn't do any good. The day after she started first time, and hummed a prayer to mechanical precision. Bloody odd, thought I, but she did a 200 mile round trip without complaint. The next day she conked out at a junction. It was then that I realised the fault only occurred when I swung the bars to the left. Bingo! A loose connector the culprit. Any normal person would've called it quits at this point, and just be happy to have solved the problem. But I had to delve a little deeper. Careful examination of the forks revealed they had been straightened! Immediately, I had visions of them snapping at 90mph and being thrown down the road as cage
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fodder. I had a mechanic look them over and he reckoned it was a good job and shouldn't be a problem... unless I hit some-thing hard, when they might well snap off! Death City. Apart from these downs I actually liked the bike a lot and decided to take a chance on the front end. Many meanderings followed, the VX is a type that's very relaxing and laid back to ride yet rather competent at the same time. It took a bit of getting used to in he bends, the back end had a very direct feel yet it also seemed just a little bit hinged in the middle when the road turned rough. But I could ride through the rear wheel's machinations without anything negative going down. Despite the straightened forks, the front end was very secure and well placed on the road. Comfort was close to excellent as long I kept below 95mph, a speed that suddenly conjured up a serious gale. The bike could actually put 120mph on its clock but comparisons with friends' bikes revealed that this was more like 110mph in harsh reality. Vibes hit the chassis at about 105mph, thrumming through the cycle parts but it was more an annoyance than anything that was likely to break components. I soon came to depend on the Suzuki, absolutely convinced that it was totally bullet proof. This was borne out by one 450 mile-in-a-day-trip, at the end of it the bike ticking over as if it'd just stepped out of the garage rather than hurtling through a gale force storm and almost being tossed off the side of a mountain. The actual level of protection afforded by the VX was minimal, if anything the rain seemed intensified by the machine's ergonomics - or lack thereof - and unless I wore some decent waterproofs I was soaked through. Even with the Barbour suit on, after more than an hour of intense rain would have water seeping through the crotch and chest. The suit was pretty old but had never failed before. Other limits of the machine's practicality were a lack of seat comfort after about 125 miles but squirming around and standing on the pegs sufficed until the fuel ran out (60mpg possible on the open road) and the walk to the kiosk to pay for the fuel revived my limbs. After 450 miles, I was staggering around a bit and could've got top billing in a gay revue. Not that I'd ever want to do such a thing, of course. It took 18000 miles of riding before something went wrong - as might be half expected on a Suzuki, the Electric's. Usually, they just fail but on mine a minor fire spread through the chassis! This was down to some moron replacing the main fuse with a nail! I don't know if the molten mess of a rectifier was original fare or not as it was damaged beyond recognition. Panels, lots of wiring and a scorched engine were included amongst the casualties. Breakers had never heard of it happening like that before so it was probably a combination of the alternator burning out and non-standard components, plus the stupid nail... an expensive nail, as it cost about 150 quid to fix it properly. It didn't bear thinking about, riding around with Electric's that could burn out at any moment, which would have been the case if I bodged it.
The bike then ran nicely until 33,500 miles were on the clock when the engine sounded like it was going to explode. It happened very suddenly, one moment it was bliss on earth - sort of - the next it was hell in a basket full of roses. Or a rolling basket case. I wondered what the f**k had gone down, all my loyalty to the machine going out of the window as the debacle occurred in the middle of the Scottish Highlands - and I mean the middle! The motor didn't actually lock up but it sounded so terminal that I switched the ignition off and pulled over. I looked at the engine hoping for some easy inspiration but it didn't come. Pushing 5OOlbs of heavy metal halfway across Scotland wasn't my idea of a holiday (other than in hell) but I finally found a telephone that worked - I thought it was a mirage; I was that far-gone. To cut an extremely long and expensive story short, the back cylinder had developed a case of disintegrating camshaft lobes. Nasty that. The mechanic accused me of using cheap oil, something I denied vehemently but I must admit I did leave the oil for about 6000 miles on one occasion and the filter for about twice that. Another sortie into the modern hell known as the breakers sorted it out. For long enough to sell! A kind of madness followed. At first, I was elated at deposing of what was threatening to turn into a very troublesome and expensive motorcycle but a couple of hours after doing a celebratory jig I was deep in depression. The bike had actual gotten to me! Deeply! Of course, this realisation coincided with a total scarcity of Suzuki VX8OO's for sale on both the private and trade circuit. I then went through, in an amazingly short period, several Honda Veefour customs. Actually I'm too embarrassed to go into the details (which must be a first for an UMG contributor). The most memorable moment was when I seized one of the abortions at 90mph, a speed, incidentally, that had the monster all over the shop. You really don't want to seize some overweight monster cruiser at silly speeds. Well, there's a kind of cruel irony to it all that will appeal to the more sadistic readers - it's always worth spreading some doom and disaster around the world just for the kicks, baby, especially when it's the world's leading manufacturer of motorcycles that's involved. Anyway the back wheel went into a half-mile long skid before I hit on the clutch, leading to massive heart trauma, a blown back tyre and an off-road intrusion that involved destruction of nearly half an acre of some farmers field and hedgerow. There was so much momentum involved that it's like being atop a charging rhino, or at least how you would imagine it would be to be atop a charging rhino in your worst night-mares. Frightening enough to have me to-totally out of my head on lager later in the night! What was left of the Honda was rolled into the town centre some time later, a match thrown into its petrol tank and the burning sculpture left to confuse the pigs. Which has nothing to do with me claiming for a stolen motorcycle on the insurance, officer.
I don't know why I kept buying these Honda vee-fours, other than that the imports were cheap, but when another VX came up I was in there like a vampire after a virgin coming into heat. Which must be totally wicked, if you think about it. Took a huge loss on the PX but at least I'd bought a three year old with a totally unbelievable 2976 miles on the clock. And I knew enough about the bastards to know that it was a genuine piece of paradise. So there you go, in a rather strange and paradoxical way, VX8OO's are the business.
GA
The VX800 WWW Site - Advice - Headlights
Headlights
From: Glen Farney <glen.farney@snet.net> To: vx800-l@mcf.com Subject: Re: Dem high beams in da trees - warning... long post ! Date: 2/27/00 First, let me say that the headlight should do most of the work. My wife's VX headlight is awesome, Kotto brand I think. I thought it was the stock unit, maybe it's not. If the stock VX headlight isn't doing it's job, I'd replace it. It's not nearly as expensive as you'd think (about the same as driving lights, and the results can be well worth the money. You can get a replacement headlight that fits exactly for about $40-50, still takes the H4 bulb, and works very well. Brands I'd look for include Candlepower, Hella, Cibie, Orsam, Phillips, or Bosch. It's a standard 7" Round headlight. Don't pay more than $50 (bulb included) or I'll help you get good ones for less. Motorcycles are allowed to run headlights cars are not, allowing us to use the European spec lights in most cases. I have put these type headlights on EVERY car and bike I've owned (that would take them) since I discovered them. Some great reading on the subject of lighting is at http://lighting.mbz.org/faq/ and http://www.overlander.com/faq_lamps.html Now, with that said... .driving lights.... and the VX's charging system.... 280 watts at 5,000 rpm. My GS650 and it's 250 watt capacity is good for about 100w of total head/driving light power, but that's about it. The VX is comfortable with the 55/100 or an 80/100 alone, and I'd say you could run either a higher power headlight, or standard and some driving lights. Most driving lights are 50-55w each, some are 35w though. Keep in mind that these lights almost always say "for off road use only" on them, and can be blinding to oncoming traffic at night. The kids here are using them on their little Hondas and Toyotas, and run them on all the time for the looks, and it's annoying as hell. The cops are finally starting to pass out tickets for it. Even though the headlight replacement is the correct answer, driving lights do add to the safety for a motorcycle with both extra light down the road, and extra visibility to others. I think on the VX you could run the stock headlight with a pair of 35w driving lights (60+70=130w total lighting) Or 20w driving lights with a higher output bulb (100 + 40 = 140w of total lighting) but I'd put the extra power into a light that works better for you. I would not go past the 130-140w range, especially if you do a lot of slower in traffic riding (unless you put the lights on a switch for such situations). If you have electric clothing, you need to figure on that too. At lower speeds, the battery could suffer and go dead on you from lack of charging. All sorts of small round driving lights with 50-55w bulbs use the same dicroic bulb (bulb and reflector in one unit) used in household track lighting. The good news here is the track lighting bulbs come in 50w, 35w and 20w varieties, as well as spot and flood light patterns for about $5 each so you can change out the bulb to lower the wattage and change the beam patter that you install on the bike. I found some "micro" driving lights, same story, but come with the 20w bulbs (also track lighting, but are smaller in size). I'm using them for visibility, as they don't do anything impressive about getting light down the road. You can get many many driving lights that require the standard H3 bulb, but most are 55w and up. I did see that a 35w H3 bulb is available, so you could convert them to a lower wattage.
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The VX800 WWW Site - Advice - Headlights
As if you couldn't tell, lighting is a bit of a passion for me, I like to see ! If anyone has an more questions, feel free to ask on or off list. "The ride is the reason, the destination is only the excuse" Glen Farney GS650GLD, VX800M, GS750ED SOC-USA Connecticut State Coordinator ICQ #9867478 AOL "Farnster" Coventry, CT
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VX800 Web Pages - Polishing
DEFINITIONS & TERMS

The following definitions and terms are provided to give a better understanding of products, procedures and techniques. These definitions and terms apply to this subject only as their meanings may be different in other industries.
ABRASIVE POLISHING WHEELS
A cloth buffing wheel already having glue and abrasive emery applied for the use as a sanding or metal removing process, with the use of lubrication
BUFFING
Usually accomplished with the use of cloth wheels and buffing compounds, to remove abrasive polishing lines. Buffing produces anywhere from a semi-mirror finish as a cutting operation, to a high lustre referred to as colouring. Buffing does not remove heavy amounts of metal; only fine polishing lines and/or slight imperfections.
BUFFING COMPOUNDS
A combination of vegetable, mineral and animal fat and/or waxes, with a mixture of minute powder abrasive.
BUFFING WHEELS
Usually constructed of cloth, ranging in texture from muslin, as the softest, to canvas as the heaviest. Buffing wheels are constructed in a wide variety of ways of stitching, cloth count, sewing, ply and treatments.
CLOTH POLISHING WHEELS

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These are constructed in the same manner as buffing wheels, with the addition of each layer of material being glued or cemented together and pressed for a specific period of time, as per manufacturer. Cloth polishing wheels are made for the sole purpose of having glue and abrasive grit (emery) applied for use as an abrasive polishing wheel.
COLOURING OR CLOLOUR BUFFING
A final buffing procedure with a soft buffing wheels/or wheels and a colour buffing compound.
CUTTING ACTION
Refers to either cutting depth or time in which it takes to complete a polishing and/or buffing procedure
EMERY
Loose abrasive grain for application to cloth polishing wheels or certain cloth buffing wheels with the use of glue or cement to be used as a polishing operation.
GLUE (Polishing Wheel Cement)
A special mixture that adheres to hold abrasive emery grain to be used for a polishing (sanding) procedure. Many types are available, each made specifically for a process and/or metal
POLISHING
A metal removal process with the use of abrasives having a flexible working surface. A procedure prior to buffing.
VX800 - Oil Fliters
Engine Oil Filters Overview

[ Recommended Filters | Filters To Avoid ]
Description
This page now contains my *personal* slant on oil filters. It is largely based on the things I discovered in the Oil Filter Study I started several months ago. Since there was concern about the influence of some of the subjective information on that page, it has been removed and put into this page. Again, these are my personal opinions and I am just a concerned automotive enthusiast that is tired of being toyed with by these manufacturers. In reality, I am an Electrical Engineer with no qualifications in the area of filtration analysis. However, I have eyes and some common sense, which has proven to be enough to accomplish what I set out to do.
What Makes A Good Filter?

Engine oil filter have one purpose in life: to filter out the particles that enter the oil so that they don't act as abrasives when the oil recirculates. The filter is a cellulose (paper) or synthetic media that is usually contained in a steel can. The front of the can typically has a threaded center with surrounding holes. Oil enters through the surrounding holes, passes through the filter media, and exits through the threaded center. The filters usually screw right onto the engine block using an o-ring gasket to prevent leakage. Many filters have an anti-drainback valve to prevent dirty oil from backwashing back into the oil pan. They also have a pressure relief or bypass valve that will allow oil to bypass the filter element in the event that it becomes too plugged to pass enough oil. This prevents engine oil starvation and the possibility of destroying the element, allowing pieces of it and the junk it filtered to enter the engine. Also, when the oil is cold and very thick, it will tend to bypass the filter through the pressure relief valve because it cannot pass through the element until it thins out somewhat. If it did not do this, the filter element media would tear open. A good filter has a strong steel can to withstand the high oil pressure (60-80psi when cold), an anti-drainback valve that actually works without creating too much backpressure, a pressure relief valve that doesn't leak, and a strong paper element and cap that can with stand the pressure and flow of oil without falling apart. The element media has to be able to trap small particles, but without restricting the flow too much. Cellulose (paper) media is used on economy filters and works OK. The fibers in the paper acts as a mesh to block particles down to a certain average size, while allowing the oil to pass through. Some manufacturers add other media, such as cotton, to the cellulose to improve its performance. There is synthetic fiber media for the high-end filters that has smaller passages to trap smaller particles, but can pass more fluid through it because it has more of them. There is also media that is a blend of these two. There are also "depth" filters that are usually made of synthetic material that has a passage size gradient to it. In other words, the deeper into the element the oil goes, the smaller the passages get. This way, large particles are trapped in a different spot than small particles, which allows the filter to hold more particles before it "blocks" (becomes too restrictive). All filters have to undergo SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) tests to prove that they meet the engine manufacturer's requirements. The SAE J806 test uses a single-pass test, checking for contaminant holding capacity, size of contaminant particles trapped, and ability to maintain clean oil. As an amendment of the J806 test, the multipass test also looks for filter life in hours, contaminant capacity in grams, and efficiency based on weight. The efficiency of the filter is determined only by weight through gravimetric measurement of the filtered test liquid. Typical numbers for paper filter elements are 85% (single pass) and 80% (multi-pass). A new test, the SAE J1858,
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VX800 - Oil Fliters
provides both particle counting and gravimetric measurement to measure filter capacity and efficiency. Actual counts of contaminant particles by size are obtained every 10 minutes, both upstream (before the filter) and downstream (after the filter), for evaluation. From this data filtration ratio and efficiency for each contaminant particle size can be determined as well as dust capacity and pressure loss as a function of time. Typical numbers for paper element filters are 40% at 10 microns, 60% at 20 microns, 93% at 30 microns, and 97% at 40 microns.
Recommended Filters
Based on the simple criteria above and the information I gathered in the Oil filter Study, I have found some filters that are readily available and are of good quality. I have disassembled many filters and made obervations and measurements on them. Sadly, some of the most common and popular filters don't cut it in my book. Those filters are described in the next section. The filter names are also links to the Oil Filter Study page, which gives the intimate deatils of that filter in the Ford 5.0L V8 version. You will find all the hard data for these filters there. What follows are filters that I recommend in alphabetical order:
AC Delco Duraguard This filter does not appear to be AC Delco's original design, but it is still pretty good. It has one of the highest filter element surface areas with fewer, but very deep pleats. It also has strong, metal end caps with a nitrile rubber diaphram-type anti-drainback valve and steel bypass valve. It is one of the better filters you can get for $3. I have had some feedback about these filters leaking at the seam between the backplate and the can. Often this was in situations where the engine was modified. Also, during a recent oil change, I found that this filter did not have the best anti-drainback valve. It is better than Fram because I have very little valve train noise at startup (I had a lot with Fram). I now have a NAPA Gold filter on it, which gives me no noise at all.
AC Delco Ultraguard Gold This filter appears to be a Champion Labs filter. This is not suprising given that Champion Labs also manufacturers other AC Delco filters for some european vehicles. Will get the hard data soon...
AMSOIL No real information yet. I have cut it open and it looks like a very nice filter. The manufacturer appears to be Baldwin.
Baldwin No information yet. One is being delivered.
Bosch This is yet another Champion Labs filter that is sold at AutoZone.
VX800 - Oil Fliters
Car And Driver This is a Champion Labs filter that is sold at Target.
Deutsch This is a Champion Labs filter that is sold at AutoZone.
Fram Tough Guard Even with all the problems of the other Fram filters, this one is not too bad. It has a heavier filter element with more surface area, a silicone anti-drainback valve, the cheap pressure relief valve, but with a clever integral screen to keep out large particles, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The only other drawback to this filter is that it is capped on each end with cardboard instead of metal. Looking in through the center outlet does not reveal any paper end caps, but they are there.
Hard Driver This is a one of the few oil filters that uses a synthetic filter element. It's has a dual-density layering "depth" filter element. The construction of the filter is what you would expect from a quality filter with steel filter element caps and special epoxy-coated steel mesh retainers to keep the element from flexing. It also has a good flowing, strong steel case and a zinc-coated backplate to prevent pre-installation corrosion. I have disassembled but have not measured this filter. I have not been able to find this filter at any retail stores.
Mobil 1 This filter is made by Champion Labs and uses a synthetic fiber element that can filter out very small particles. It is rated by the manufacturer at just under the Purolator Pure One as far as filtering capability, but is still very much above conventional paper filters. It also has a very strong construction to withstand high pressure spikes during startup. Given the choice between the Purolator Pure One and the Mobil 1 filters, I would choose the Mobil 1 because of the restriction concerns of the Pure One. However, as with all Mobil 1 products, expect to pay 2 - 3 times as much for this filter. I have seen this filter sold at AutoZone and K-mart. Though I have never had problems, I have received feedback from a few people that these filters may leak at the base. It seems that the seal between the backplate and can may burst under high pressure (at startup). These were on Ford engine applications.
Mopar Filters (various) These filters are Frams, Purolators, or Wixes. Mopar does not manufacture it's own filters, nor do they require anything special from these manufacturers. Since they basically paint them a different color, stamp them with a Mopar logo, and double the price, there is no reason to buy them. Sadly, the Mopar Severe Duty 53020311 filter is actually the worst filter of them all. It is a Fram Extra Guard.
VX800 - Oil Fliters
Motorcraft This was a Purolator hybrid. It had the Premium Plus case (anti-drainback valve, gasket, etc), but with a Pure One filter element. This is a cheap way to get a Purolator Pure One. It is sold at many locations including AutoZone, Pep Boys, etc.
NAPA They sell two lines of oil filters: NAPA Silver and NAPA Gold. They are both made by Dana (Wix) and there is no obvious difference between them. They may have different elements, but NAPA does not state that this is true.
PowerFlo This is a Purolator Premium Plus that I have seen at Murray's Auto Supplies.
ProLine This is a Purolator Premium Plus that I have seen at Pep Boys. Pep Boys also sells the Purolator Premium Plus brand, which is pretty dumb.
Purolator Premium Plus The Purolator is a solid design. It seems to have one of the tougher paper filter element of them all and the bypass valve is built right into the cartridge. There are no internal sealing problems with this filter at all. There is an assembly string that is wrapped around the filter element, probably to hold it in place while the glue cures in the end caps. In the ProLine (one of the Purolator clones), the string was wrapped too tightly and had damaged the filter element. All the other Purolator-made filters (8 in all) had no trouble, and even the damaged one would probably have been fine.
Purolator Pure One This is an interesting filter design made by Purolator. Most of the construction of the Pure One is the same as the Purolator Premium Plus. The big difference is the filter element itself. It has a dense paper/fiber filter element that can filter very small particles. The result of this is cleaner oil exiting the element, but more oil restriction. Purolator addressed this by adding more filter material (more and deeper pleats). After seeing one of these filters cut open, I am apprehensive about this filter. It seems to have so many pleats that it is almost a solid chunk of filter element. It seems like it would end up restricting the flow, more than anything. Purolator has plenty of data on the filtration abilities of this filter and I don't doubt it, but they have no flow data. Even so, I don't see any major problems with this filter. It also sports a silicone anti-drainback valve and a PTFE treated nitrile rubber gasket.
STP This is a Champion Labs filter that I have seen at AutoZone and Walmart.
VX800 - Oil Fliters
Wix Another quality oil filter similar in design to the Purolator. It has metal end caps on the filter element, a standard nitrile anti-drainback valve, and a seemingly good flow. They are manufactured by the Dana corperation. These appear to have a depth gradient filter element, which uses cotton fibers to progressively trap smaller particles as they get deeper in the filter. This helps maintain good flow as the filter gets plugged.
Filters To Avoid
The following list of filters have known problems. You will see well-known names here and will probably be disappointed. This is because many of these brands have stopped making their own filters and buy from a common manufacturer.
Fram Extra Guard Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber antidrainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stampedmetal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circuilating through my system. The oil passge to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.
Fram Double Guard Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure releif valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. Dupont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter.
Penzoil This filter is a Fram! It is the exact same design as the Fram Extra Guard filter and it is junk. On the up side, it costs $1 less than the Fram version.
Quaker State This is another Fram Extra Guard that I have seen at K-mart. It used to be a Purolator, but Quaker State is now owned/controlled by Penzoil... This page is maintained by Russell W. Knize and was last updated 09/07/99.
VX800 - Oil Fliters
VX800 - Engine Oil
Engine Oil Choices

[ Viscosity | Choosing | Conventional Oil | Synthetic Oil | Synthetic Blends | Oil Additives ]
Description
OK. Here we go. I decided that I would attempt to enter the relm of engine oil. Great battles have been fought here, and I hope not to start another engine oil holy war. I will attempt to present the facts as straight as possible without interjecting my opinion too much.
Some Thoughts
No matter what type of oil you choose, there are a few universal constants about engine oil. The first is change it regularly! Conventional oil must be changed every 3,000 miles. The fact is that the oil simply breaks down as it ages and loses the ability to lubricate. It also collects contaminants from the combusting air and fuel in the engine. As these contaiminants build up, the oil can become acidic and damage bearing surfaces. Synthetic oil does not breakdown as quickly, but it still aquires contaminants the same way, however it has additives to help battle this. Change it at least every 5,000 - 6,000 miles. Many replace it at 3,000 miles just to be safe. Always change your oil filter when you change your oil. It does little good to replace your oil, only to have a half a quart of old oil sitting in a plugged filter to mix with. It's also a good idea not to mix brands of oil. Stick with a particular brand at least for your current oil change and when adding oil later, keep using the same brand. Always have an extra quart or two readily available. Although you can change brands between changes, I recommend choosing a brand and sticking with it to avoid potential incompatibilities. Always use standard conventional 5W-30 oil when breaking in a new or rebuilt engine. Never use synthetics or additives. The new engine parts depend on the characteristics of conventional oil to properly break in. A certain amount of friction during break-in is mandatory or the new components will fail and you may be greeted with scored bores and/or spun bearings.
Oil Viscosity
The way that oil viscosity is measured is by its weight. In this case, "weight" refers to the thickness of the oil. Any liquid has some viscosity and that viscosity changes depending on its temperature. Usually, viscosity (thickness) decreases as temperature increases. This also is true of engine oil. Engines need a thin oil at startup, so that it can get to the engine components quickly, but it needs a thicker oil when the engine is hot because a thin oil becomes too thin. This is why engine oils are supplied as dual-grade weights. When you see 10W-30 on a quart of oil, it means that it acts like 10 weight oil when it is cold (the "W" means winter, say -10^C), but acts like 30 weight oil when hot (100^C). This is not to say that it is actually thicker when it is hot. Hot 30 weight oil is thinner than cold 10 weight oil. Even so, it still helps provide the benefits of both types of oil depending on its temperature. So 0W-30 oil acts like 0 weight oil when cold, but maintains a 30 weight viscosity when hot. Think of it this way: when your engine is hot, there is basically no difference between 0W-30, 5W-30, and 10W-30 oil. They are all acting like 30 weight oil at this point. It's at cold startup, when almost all engine wear occurs, that the viscosity is different. The 0 weight oil will get to the engine components quicker than the 10 weight oil, but in reality cold 0 weight oil is still thicker than hot 30 weight oil. On the other hand when the engine is cold, there is no difference between 10W-30 and 10W-40 oil. However when the engine is hot, the 10W-40 oil is thicker than the 10W-30.
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VX800 - Engine Oil
This is why single-grade oils are very bad. Straight 30 weight oil is way too thick when cold to properly lubricate the engine. The only way to use single weight oil is to have an oil pan heater to bring the oil up to operating temperature (about 140^F or 60^C) before the engine is ever started. If you simply must use it, this type of oil should only be used in race engines with pan heaters. As far as what oil viscosity is best, it depends who you ask. The fact is that engine oil maintains its viscosity better than ever and synthetics maintain it the best. In my opinion, the best viscosity for all weather is 5W-30. The reason is that both 5W-30 and 10W-30 breakdown at about the same point. Lighter oil can get into places that the heavier oil cannot and will get there more quickly, even when cold, so why go heavier? The only reason would be leaks. If you have oil leaks, a heavy oil will go through them more slowly. That is why you can buy "No-Smoke", which is basically sludge to thicken your oil. If your engine is sealed well, feel free to try Mobil 1's 0W-30 oil. If that "0" really makes you nervous, stick with 5W-30. 10W-30 is uneccessarily thick when cold.
Choosing An Oil
Choosing an oil can be confusing because everyone has an opinion. I have one too and it has changed as the evidense had showed itself in our driveway. Here is a comparison of four cars using various types of oil and oil changing methods. All four were driven in similar condtions by two people (my father and myself) with very similar driving styles. The last one is for an N/A engine, but it makes a point. At 120,000 miles, our 1987 Daytona Turbo I got a new camshaft and followers because the old ones were shot. Also, the bores had a noticable ridge on them from ring wear. This engine got whichever name-brand conventional oil was on sale every 5,000 - 6,000 miles. At 100,000 miles, I had my 1987 Plymouth Sundance Turbo I apart and the cam and bores had some wear on them. The bores had about the same wear as the Daytona, and the cam was worn, but in better shape. This engine got whatever namebrand conventional oil was on sale every 3,000 - 5,000 miles (5W-30 in the summer and 10W-30 in the winter). At 110,000 miles, I had my 1987 Dodge Shadow Turbo I apart and the cam and bores had almost no wear on them at all. There was some coking of the oil in the oil supply line to the turbo. This engine always got Pennzoil conventional oil every 3,000 miles (5W-30). At 104,000 miles, I had my 1987 Shelby CSX Turbo II apart. The bores had NO wear on them at all; I could not see or feel a ridge of any kind and the bearings were in excellent shape. The cam was a roller cam, so it naturally had no wear (not a fair comparison). The inside of the engine was clean and the oil lines were perfectly clear. This engine got 5W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic oil every 3,000 - 5,000 miles. At 240,000 miles (not a typo), my uncle had the head off of his 1985 Pontiac Firebird (2.6L V6). This engine still looked new. The bores and cam were in excellent shape and the engine runs as quiet as a mouse. It got synthetic oil every 3,000 4,000 miles.
Conventional Oil
Also known as "dino-juice", this is the stuff that is in the majority of engines today. There are many brands out there and they tend to vary quite a bit in terms of what is in them, but don't vary much in terms of performance. Like most things, there are many fewer engine oil manufacturers than there are engine oil brands. Many brands, especially generics, buy their oil from common manufacturers. Differences between conventional oils usually lies within the purification process of the base oil and the additives that are included to control it. While some manufacturers process their own base oil (Mobil, Shell,
VX800 - Engine Oil
etc), others buy base oil from these companies and add their own additives. Who buys what from whom appears to be a well-kept secret, because I have had little luck in researching this. Some tests have been done using several different brands and types of oils in vehicles. Measurements were made of engine parts to begin with, then the vehicles were used in a similar way for several months, then taken apart and measured again. In my opinion, these results are inconclusive because the length of time was too short. The amount of wear was found to be the same, but since the tests were only conducted for a few months, the wear found was primarily break-in wear. A similar test lasting several years and tens of thousands of miles is needed to make any real conclusions. So basically, the only advice I can give about conventional oil is to buy a well-known name brand oil. Whatever brand you choose, I highly recommend that you do not mix brands of engine oil. Chances are that nothing will happen, but there is the possibility that the additives of one brand can react with the additives of another. Changing brands between oil changes is probably fine, but don't use a different brand if you have to add oil later. Some brand suggestions (in alphabetical order) that I have used in the past are: Castrol, Havoline, Mobil, Pennzoil, Quaker State, Shell, and Valvoline. One thing to remember is to always use conventional engine oil with no additives (Slick 50, Prolong, etc.) after an engine rebuild. The new engine parts depend on the characteristics of conventional oil to properly break in. A certain amount of friction during break-in is mandatory or the new components will fail and you may be greeted with scored bores and/or spun bearings.
Synthetic Oil
Synthetic oil is also put together the same way as conventional oil. It has a base and additives. The difference is that the base oil is synthesized so that the size of the molecules are ideal for a particular weight and are of consistant size. Conventional oil has many molecule sizes all mixed together with many impurities, but there is an ideal size for the best lubracative properties and viscosity. With a pure base, there are no waxes or impurities that contribute to buildup of "varnish" and "coke" in your engine. A more sophisticated set of additives is added to this ideal base oil. These additives make for an extremely stable engine oil which can maintain its viscosity over a larger temperature range and keeps the base oil molecules from breaking down. The result is an oil that can flow at much lower temperatures, maintain proper viscosity at higher temperatures (thermal breakdown), and remain stable for a much longer period. It will also protect your engine longer at and right after startup because the friction inhibitor additives are activated a lower temperatures than that of conventional oils. Probably the two most popluar brands for synthetic engine oil are Mobil 1 and Castrol Formula SLX (formerly "Syntech"), though other brands are available. Mobil and Castrol synthetic oils are compatible with conventional oils and can be mixed with them. If you are going to blend synthetic with conventional, I highly recommend using the same brand of both oils to ensure compatibility. The only real downside to synthetic oils is the cost. It is typically two or three times the cost of conventional oil for a good synthetic. Another little-known downside is that switching to a synthetic oil on an old engine can result in oil leaks. Why? Because the detergents in the synthetic oils will "clean-up" the varnish and sludge left by conventional oils. If your engine seals are worn, the synthetic will break down the oil varnish that may be maintaining the seal. So it's not that the synthetic oil caused a leak, it just that it revealed worn seals by cleaning the varnish off of them. Many people have switched to synthetic on 100,000+ mile engines with no leaks, so it just depends on how often you changed your oil and the overall conditon of your engine. Conventional oils are sufficient for most engines, but I personally recommend synthetics for turbocharged and other highperformance engines. Oil running through a turbocharger has the undesirable job of removing the extreme heat from the turbo's bearings and shaft. It is not uncommon to see oil coking in the oil supply line to the turbo when conventional oils are used, even when they are changed frequently (though that does help). Synthetic oils will not do this. Also, I have seen many engines that have run only Mobil 1 and are in amazing conditon. The evidense is in our driveway (see top pf page).
VX800 - Engine Oil
Synthetic Oil Blends

Blended oil is an alternative to buying pure synthetic. It combines some synthetic base oil with conventional base oil. Typically it does not include the synthetic oil's advanced additives. The small percentage of synthetic base oil in a blend versus its price does not make it worthwhile, however. If you want to run a blend of oil to save money, I recommend blending the oil yourself. Put one quart of the synthetic oil of your choice and fill the rest with the same brand of conventional oil. Be sure that the synthetic your are using is compatible with conventionals. Check the label on the container. As of this date, Mobil's and Castrol's synthetics are compatible with conventional oils. I recommand staying with one brand to ensure that there are no compatibility problems. Blending oil in this way gives you a higher percentage of synthetic base, plus the advanced additives, for less cost than buying a blended oil. If money is not an issue, then just go with full synthetics.
Oil Additives
In a word: "don't." There is very little that any additional additive can do to engine oil and be compatible with all types. I have read a lot about a couple of them and it has been discussed frequently on the SDML. Also, the price of the more "advanced" additives makes buying pure synthetic oil cheaper than buying convention al oil plus additives. The more popular Slick 50 is a cheap base oil that has little bits of solid Teflon added. The fact is that engine oil needs to get into very tight spaces to lubricate properly, and if heavy engine oils have a hard time, imagine how well solids can get in. Basically they do nothing and end up getting filtered out by the oil filter as the filter becomes dirtier. So for about $25, you get a quart of cheap oil and a bunch of particles that really belong on a non-stick frying pan. Dupont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines, so why are people putting it in there? The latest additive is Prolong. It appears that Prolong is some sort of chlorine-based chemical with buffers to suppress chlorine's corrosive tendencies. Details about this stuff are still sketchy, but it won't be going into my engine until I see real racers using it. If you are a Prolong believer and don't mind spending $30 on it, it doesn't seem to cause problems as far as I know. There are various others, such as Duralube and STP. There has never been any conclusive evidense that any additives have any effect on engine wear at all. Some may even cause damage. Don't listen to the vendor's own tests or those stupid infomercials, because they are simply not true. The "running the engine without oil" test is nonsense. All modern engines require some oil pressure to keep the lash adjusters pumped up. It's simple physics. There is no way that an engine can run quieter with no oil after any kind of treatment (ala Prolong's infomercial). Even if the treatment has some magical properties, the lash adjusters require pressure to keep the valvetrain quiet! The million mile test is also nonsense. These tests leave the engine running constantly. Almost all engine wear occurs when the engine is started, not while it is running at operating temperature.
Stolen from http://minimopar.simplenet.com/oil.html This page is maintained by Russell W. Knize and was last updated 05/06/99.
VX800 - Engine Oil
VX800 - Engine Oil Additives
Engine Oil Filters Overview

[ Recommended Filters | Filters To Avoid ]
Description
This page now contains my *personal* slant on oil filters. It is largely based on the things I discovered in the Oil Filter Study I started several months ago. Since there was concern about the influence of some of the subjective information on that page, it has been removed and put into this page. Again, these are my personal opinions and I am just a concerned automotive enthusiast that is tired of being toyed with by these manufacturers. In reality, I am an Electrical Engineer with no qualifications in the area of filtration analysis. However, I have eyes and some common sense, which has proven to be enough to accomplish what I set out to do.
What Makes A Good Filter?

Engine oil filter have one purpose in life: to filter out the particles that enter the oil so that they don't act as abrasives when the oil recirculates. The filter is a cellulose (paper) or synthetic media that is usually contained in a steel can. The front of the can typically has a threaded center with surrounding holes. Oil enters through the surrounding holes, passes through the filter media, and exits through the threaded center. The filters usually screw right onto the engine block using an oring gasket to prevent leakage. Many filters have an anti-drainback valve to prevent dirty oil from backwashing back into the oil pan. They also have a pressure relief or bypass valve that will allow oil to bypass the filter element in the event that it becomes too plugged to pass enough oil. This prevents engine oil starvation and the possibility of destroying the element, allowing pieces of it and the junk it filtered to enter the engine. Also, when the oil is cold and very thick, it will tend to bypass the filter through the pressure relief valve because it cannot pass through the element until it thins out somewhat. If it did not do this, the filter element media would tear open. A good filter has a strong steel can to withstand the high oil pressure (60-80psi when cold), an anti-drainback valve that actually works without creating too much backpressure, a pressure relief valve that doesn't leak, and a strong paper element and cap that can with stand the pressure and flow of oil without falling apart. The element media has to be able to trap small particles, but without restricting the flow too much. Cellulose (paper) media is used on economy filters and works OK. The fibers in the paper acts as a mesh to block particles down to a certain average size, while allowing the oil to pass through. Some manufacturers add other media, such as cotton, to the cellulose to improve its performance. There is synthetic fiber media for the high-end filters that has smaller passages to trap smaller particles, but can pass more fluid through it because it has more of them. There is also media that is a blend of these two. There are also "depth" filters that are usually made of synthetic material that has a passage size gradient to it. In other words, the deeper into the element the oil goes, the smaller the passages get. This way, large particles are trapped in a different spot than small particles, which allows the filter to hold more particles before it "blocks" (becomes too restrictive). All filters have to undergo SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) tests to prove that they meet the engine manufacturer's requirements. The SAE J806 test uses a single-pass test, checking for contaminant holding capacity,size of contaminant particles trapped, and ability to maintain clean oil. As an amendment of the J806 test, the multi-pass test also looks for filter life in hours, contaminant capacity in grams, and efficiency based on weight. The efficiency of the filter is determined only by weight through gravimetric measurement of the filtered test liquid. Typical numbers for paper filter elements are 85% (single pass) and 80% (multi-pass). A new test, the SAE J1858, provides both particle counting and gravimetric measurement to measure filter capacity and efficiency. Actual counts of contaminant particles by size are obtained every 10 minutes, both upstream (before the filter) and downstream (after the filter), for evaluation. From this data filtration ratio and efficiency for each contaminant particle size can be determined as well as dust capacity and pressure loss as a
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function of time. Typical numbers for paper element filters are 40% at 10 microns, 60% at 20 microns, 93% at 30 microns, and 97% at 40 microns.
Recommended Filters
Based on the simple criteria above and the information I gathered in the Oil filter Study, I have found some filters that are readily available and are of good quality. I have disassembled many filters and made obervations and measurements on them. Sadly, some of the most common and popular filters don't cut it in my book. Those filters are described in the next section. The filter names are also links to the Oil Filter Study page, which gives the intimate deatils of that filter in the Ford 5.0L V8 version. You will find all the hard data for these filters there. What follows are filters that I recommend in alphabetical order:
AC Delco Duraguard This filter does not appear to be AC Delco's original design, but it is still pretty good. It has one of the highest filter element surface areas with fewer, but very deep pleats. It also has strong, metal end caps with a nitrile rubber diaphramtype anti-drainback valve and steel bypass valve. It is one of the better filters you can get for $3. I have had some feedback about these filters leaking at the seam between the backplate and the can. Often this was in situations where the engine was modified. Also, during a recent oil change, I found that this filter did not have the best antidrainback valve. It is better than Fram because I have very little valve train noise at startup (I had a lot with Fram). I now have a NAPA Gold filter on it, which gives me no noise at all.
AC Delco Ultraguard Gold This filter appears to be a Champion Labs filter. This is not suprising given that Champion Labs also manufacturers other AC Delco filters for some european vehicles. Will get the hard data soon...
AMSOIL No real information yet. I have cut it open and it looks like a very nice filter. The manufacturer appears to be Baldwin.
Baldwin No information yet. One is being delivered.
Bosch This is yet another Champion Labs filter that is sold at AutoZone.
Car And Driver This is a Champion Labs filter that is sold at Target.
Deutsch This is a Champion Labs filter that is sold at AutoZone.
Fram Tough Guard Even with all the problems of the other Fram filters, this one is not too bad. It has a heavier filter element with more surface area, a silicone anti-drainback valve, the cheap pressure relief valve, but with a clever integral screen to keep out large particles, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The only other drawback to this filter is that it is capped on each end with cardboard instead of metal. Looking in through the center outlet does not reveal any paper end caps, but they are there.
Hard Driver This is a one of the few oil filters that uses a synthetic filter element. It's has a dual-density layering "depth" filter element. The construction of the filter is what you would expect from a quality filter with steel filter element caps and special epoxycoated steel mesh retainers to keep the element from flexing. It also has a good flowing, strong steel case and a zinc-coated backplate to prevent pre-installation corrosion. I have disassembled but have not measured this filter. I have not been able to find this filter at any retail stores.
Mobil 1 This filter is made by Champion Labs and uses a synthetic fiber element that can filter out very small particles. It is rated by the manufacturer at just under the Purolator Pure One as far as filtering capability, but is still very much above conventional paper filters. It also has a very strong construction to withstand high pressure spikes during start-up. Given the choice between the Purolator Pure One and the Mobil 1 filters, I would choose the Mobil 1 because of the restriction concerns of the Pure One. However, as with all Mobil 1 products, expect to pay 2 - 3 times as much for this filter. I have seen this filter sold at AutoZone and K-mart. Though I have never had problems, I have received feedback from a few people that these filters may leak at the base. It seems that the seal between the backplate and can may burst under high pressure (at startup). These were on Ford engine applications.
Mopar Filters (various) These filters are Frams, Purolators, or Wixes. Mopar does not manufacture it's own filters, nor do they require anything special from these manufacturers. Since they basically paint them a different color, stamp them with a Mopar logo, and double the price, there is no reason to buy them. Sadly, the Mopar Severe Duty 53020311 filter is actually the worst filter of them all. It is a Fram Extra Guard.
Motorcraft This was a Purolator hybrid. It had the Premium Plus case (anti-drainback valve, gasket, etc), but with a Pure One filter element. This is a cheap way to get a Purolator Pure One. It is sold at many locations including AutoZone, Pep Boys, etc.
NAPA
They sell two lines of oil filters: NAPA Silver and NAPA Gold. They are both made by Dana (Wix) and there is no obvious difference between them. They may have different elements, but NAPA does not state that this is true.
PowerFlo This is a Purolator Premium Plus that I have seen at Murray's Auto Supplies.
ProLine This is a Purolator Premium Plus that I have seen at Pep Boys. Pep Boys also sells the Purolator Premium Plus brand, which is pretty dumb.
Purolator Premium Plus The Purolator is a solid design. It seems to have one of the tougher paper filter element of them all and the bypass valve is built right into the cartridge. There are no internal sealing problems with this filter at all. There is an assembly string that is wrapped around the filter element, probably to hold it in place while the glue cures in the end caps. In the ProLine (one of the Purolator clones), the string was wrapped too tightly and had damaged the filter element. All the other Purolatormade filters (8 in all) had no trouble, and even the damaged one would probably have been fine.
Purolator Pure One This is an interesting filter design made by Purolator. Most of the construction of the Pure One is the same as the Purolator Premium Plus. The big difference is the filter element itself. It has a dense paper/fiber filter element that can filter very small particles. The result of this is cleaner oil exiting the element, but more oil restriction. Purolator addressed this by adding more filter material (more and deeper pleats). After seeing one of these filters cut open, I am apprehensive about this filter. It seems to have so many pleats that it is almost a solid chunk of filter element. It seems like it would end up restricting the flow, more than anything. Purolator has plenty of data on the filtration abilities of this filter and I don't doubt it, but they have no flow data. Even so, I don't see any major problems with this filter. It also sports a silicone antidrainback valve and a PTFE treated nitrile rubber gasket.
STP This is a Champion Labs filter that I have seen at AutoZone and Walmart.
Wix Another quality oil filter similar in design to the Purolator. It has metal end caps on the filter element, a standard nitrile anti-drainback valve, and a seemingly good flow. They are manufactured by the Dana corperation. These appear to have a depth gradient filter element, which uses cotton fibers to progressively trap smaller particles as they get deeper in the filter. This helps maintain good flow as the filter gets plugged.
Filters To Avoid
The following list of filters have known problems. You will see well-known names here and will probably be disappointed. This is because many of these brands have stopped making their own filters and buy from a common manufacturer.
Fram Extra Guard Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circuilating through my system. The oil passge to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.
Fram Double Guard Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure releif valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. Dupont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter.
Penzoil This filter is a Fram! It is the exact same design as the Fram Extra Guard filter and it is junk. On the up side, it costs $1 less than the Fram version.
Quaker State This is another Fram Extra Guard that I have seen at K-mart. It used to be a Purolator, but Quaker State is now owned/ controlled by Penzoil... This page is maintained by Russell W. Knize and was last updated 09/07/99.
The Suzuki VX800 - PAINT ADVICE
Painting motorcycles at home
From: Andy <AndyDP@pacbell.net> To: vx800-l@mcf.com Subject: Painting motorcycles at home Date: 2/3/00 8:25:00 AM
I recently re-did one of my bikes at home with spray cans, so here goes. I didn't want to use paints that really require a spray booth and lots of equipment to be safe, at home. Remove all of the original paint, fill the dents with filler let it cure for a few days. Sand until the finish is a perfect as you can make it. Then wash the parts with soap and water, rinse thoroughly. Do not touch the parts with bare hands, clean cloths only. Use sandable red primer, 2 coats and then sand with #400 wet sandpaper in a sanding block. You will see areas that need more filling. Depending on the depth of the problem you can use more sandable primer, spot glazing or more body filler. Repeat until you are happy with the surface. Wash the parts with soap and water. Spray with grey sandable primer and sand the surface. The different colour will make problem areas stand out quickly. Repeat the filling and sanding until it is as perfect as you wish. Wash the parts with soap and water. If the colour you are painting the bike is lighter than the grey primer, then spray 2 coats of sandable white primer and sand. Wash the parts with soap and water. Let it cure for a few days, in a dust free place with nothing touching the surface. Wash the parts with soap and water. Wet down the ground around you to keep dust down. You should mask the edges of the tank with expensive painters masking tape, I used light polyethylene to cover large areas, newspaper can scratch the surface. You are now ready to spray the colour. First do the insides of the panels and the underside of the gas tank. Now position the tank and start spraying. Keep the suggested distance away from the surface while keeping the spray can as perpendicular to the surface as you can. Use overlapping strokes on the paint and remember to start spraying then move onto the part and stop spraying after you are off the edge of your part. The first coat of colour should be quite light. Wait the suggested time. After that apply enough coats so that your colour is deep and even. Later coats can be heavier but remember many light coats will achieve the colour without running, heavy coats run. Let this dry for a couple of hours and peel the masking tape off.
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Let it dry in a dust free place for about a week. Now wet sand with #600 sandpaper. Be very light around creases and edges, you will go through the colour surprisingly easily in these places. You just need to break the gloss on the painted surface. Wash it thoroughly with soap and water. Repeat the procedure you used for colour to apply the clear coat. Many even coats of spray waiting the suggested time between them. When you are finished spraying put the parts in your dust free area for a week to cure. If you want to, stop here, sand the parts with #1500 sandpaper. Wash with soap and water. Polish it with a professional polishing compound, I used 3-M "Finesse It II" available from auto body supply stores (expensive) and a power lambskin buffer. If you want more protection for your hard work and from gasoline, you will need to do a few coats of urethane clear coat. I strongly recommend that you do this. Most urethanes are yellowish, take this into consideration when you are choosing your colour. Or you can find a crystal clear urethane if you search for it, that will not add yellow to your paint job. Sand with #600 wet sandpaper. Wash with soap and water. Apply urethane, light coat first then heavier coats waiting the suggested time between coats. On your final coat, you wish to have a very even wet looking surface. Let this dry for a least anhour before you try to move the parts. Let this cure for at least 48 hours. Sand with #1500 wet sandpaper and then finish polish with "Finesse It II". For paint and primer and urethane try to use products from only one company so you will have no problems with compatibility. Use lacquer paint and clear, and the appropriate primers. Lacquer slightly dissolves the layers beneath it when you spray which helps even the paint out and blend it in as well as giving good adhesion. This makes it quite easy to use. I used "Plasti-kote" brand paint because it was from a store that was nearby and I found the colours that I wanted. A few thoughts; don't hurry, this takes a lot of time if you want it to last. This is for 1 colour of paint let me know if you want to know about multi-colours and pin stripes. You cannot sand metallic paint, it flattens the surface so that it no longer looks metallic; you must sand then apply one more light, perfect coats. There is less dust in the air early in the morning. You will be amazed at the results you will get, I was. Good luck. Andy
Here's some URLs if you are interested: Some pics and colors from a local shop here in Austin http://www.io.com/TeamScream/paint.html Helmets etc http://www.offbeatprod.com/street.htm Text based painting tips (kill the cheesy midi file at top tho) http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/2535/w-painttips.html Plastics painting messsage board http://www.horizonweb.com/wwwboard/Plastics_Finishing/wwwboard.html Some guys paint process (some good info) http://www.warkshop.com/paint1.html
BSM VAMPIRE EXHAUST
BSM Vampire Exhaust in Stainless Steel for the VX and the dB Killer.
Last Sunday my wife and I agreed on a list of stuff I needed to accomplish before her mother got in to town on Wednesday. You know the stuff, get the tools out of the living room, hang the door on the den, and pick up the turkey. Easy enough! Last Monday I came home and saw the much awaited box from BSM waiting to get in from the weather. The box contained exactly what I ordered with no COD or duty/customs expenses. Even the outside of the box listed the contents, BSM Vampire in Stainless Steel for the VX and the dB Killer. The items were securely and protectively packaged. I made a dry run and assembled (without the bolts) the pipe and canister right there in the middle of the living room floor, next to my tools. My wife thought it would never fit, too narrow in the engine compartment. MY concern was the clearance at the center and side stands. Both concerns were unfounded and time would soon tell. I laid the scrap carpet I have down in the garage and put the new pieces/parts down on that, wouldn't want to get it scratched before I heard it. Got some tools (from the living room too) and a beer and set out to advise the list I got my pipe. That done I removed the old pipe. The right side was falling off due to a poorly designed and constructed hanger tab. The left side is too falling apart. Both will be kept in the hopes of finding someone that can put them back together. You never know when some person of authority is going to tell you to make it legal. Apparently is has something to do with proper wording on the pipe, the BSM only says "VAMPIRE". <http://www.bsm-exhausts.com/english/exhaust_en.html>, except on my model, the pipes is on the left of the bike, so the writing is on the other side. Most difficult part of the removal was separating the cross-over, that done the rest was a cinch. All bolts removed with ease and were reusable, if needed. I have Anti-Seize to thank for that. I ordered the optional dB Killer which gets fastened to the business end of the canister. Simply drill a hole in the bottom of the canister extension and the product slips into the canister and gets fastened in with the SS allen head screw, supplied. A real trick solution that BSM claims will NOT make the pipe street legal. BSM also claims a noise reduction of 3-5 dB and a power loss of less than 1%. I've left mine off for now, but will install it for long rides. Installation went without a hitch, amazing because I received NO instructions. They sent me a nice schematic complete with sizes and part #'s, but NO assembly instructions. Though they did mention it should be installed by my dealer or a competent mechanic. Oh well...After removing the old pipes, I cleaned all the tapped holes, bolts and nuts I'd be re-using, each one was then offered a liberal coating of Anti-Seize. I Also removed the springs for the center-stand.I started from the front and worked my way back, both front tubes went on without a hitch, except as someone previously mentioned, the allen head bolt was tough to get to on the left bottom flange. Both were tightened secure enough to allow just a little bit of movement. I reused the OEM gaskets because of someone being short-sighted on either BSM's or my behalf. I think they should have supplied some and they think, ahh, who knows. The old ones are not allowing any air slip by, so I guess it doesn't really matter in the wash... Next I slipped the collector pipe onto the front tubes. I put Anti Seize here as well to attempt to make removal easier, heck, the stuff works everywhere else... It was also mentioned before, that the constriction slits in the collector tube
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BSM VAMPIRE EXHAUST
were unevenly cut, in my case they are pretty much exact, and quite functional. Before assembly, I lined up the parts and marked the maximum depth the front tubes could sink inside the collector tube, I did this to allow me to know how deep they went in before I straightened everything out and tighten it all down. Both tubes slipped in to maximum depth without much of an effort. I left the bolts loose here as well. It was at this point I knew I was going to have fun aligning everything, what - with the front tube on the left hitting the OEM engine guards (add on) and the collector wanting to touch the sidestand bracket and the driver's foot-peg guard. It was the add-on that made this a trip to work with. Removed the protective plastic from the outside of the canister mounting strap and put hi-temp electrical tape on the inside of the mounting strap in a effort to prevent scratching and increase hold. Mounted the canister to the collector pipe with three nut caps. One of which was a great hassle to tighten, but a open end wrench helped out there. Mounted the mounting bracket to the inside of the passenger footrest, where the OEM pipe hung from. Slid the mounting strap over the canister and attached the two. Lined everything up, wedged rags where tolerances were small, and tightened everything, from the front back. Took the rags out, shined up the pipes from my grubby hands and called the wife. Opened the garage door, fired up the bike and heard the most horrid sound ever heard by man. The incessant squealing, shrieking, and whining ever! Shut off the bike and asked my wife to go outside where the manufacturing oils being burned off wouldn't affect her. She hushed and the VX started again... Nice low rumble, throaty and solid. My, I can even here the engine separately from the exhaust. The OEM exhaust sound drowns out the engine sounds. I feel no difference in power with exception of perhaps a boost at the 4.5 to 5 K mark. It's really noticeable. To help you know where it kicks, it's right where the sound turns guttural. At speed the pipe emits a low tone that will wear on me on long straight rides, but I've only made a few of those and the dB Killer will be installed then. It's mucho fun going up and down through the gears and hearing the bike. I now know why HD's rev while going through the gears as well as at stops, it sounds just so cool to make that sound with the flick of the wrist. My MPG will certainly drop. :) I'm not making any changes to the carburetor or air filters. Mine is still OEM-setting. I WILL re-sync the carbs though. Noise, nothing that's pissing off the neighbors, haven't had little kids covering their ears, and I got about 100 miles on the BSM so far. Rode to work on both Tuesday and Wednesday - rainy, foggy, chilly, leaves on the pavement kind of days, but really enjoyed it. Got the door hung Tuesday after I picked up the bird. Had the Thanksgiving turkey fastened to the passenger seat. Can only imagine people in their cars and walking down the street, hearing me coming, seeing the bird, and pointing towards me saying "hey, look at that turkey go." Fit and finish of the pipe was perfect. Got a couple of BSM stickers thrown in too. At this time the only things I would change are the time it takes to get the product, lack of instructions, and BSM answering their email. I WOULD order the product again and DO recommend it. Thanks to John and BSM, CJ Christopher Jorss
BSM VAMPIRE EXHAUST
Mount Vernon, VA - USA CC: BSM
BHP Chart (Carb)
Brake Horse Power - Different Carb settings

supplied by Nigel Fisher ( VX downunder )
http://vx800.net/workshop/charts/chart002.htm7/23/2005 12:13:19 PM
Torque Charts - Carb
Torque Chart - Different Carb configurations

supplied by Nigel Fisher ( VX downunder )
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Torque Charts - Carb
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Terry Blair
Terry Blair's Fork Drain Plugs

Here are a couple of the pics that I shot of the VX fork with drain plugs. When I had the fork tube off the bike to change a fork seal I looked inside and determined that the bottom of inside was even with the section where fork tapers toward axle bolt--in other words at the very bottom of round section of fork tube. Thus using a 10mm head-6mm thread bolt I started the hole's center 5 mm above the top of the taper that slants down to axle. Hope this explanation makes sense to you. It is a very easy job to drill the alloy tube. just be careful to hold drill nice and straight and steady so that you do not make hole bigger than the bit by wandering.
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Terry Blair
http://vx800.net/workshop/forkdrains/forkdrain.htm (2 of 2)7/23/2005 12:13:22 PM
Suzuki VX800 Service Data
Suzuki VX800 Service Data (1992)

Chassis Numbers by Date Color Numbers and Descriptions Brake and Wheel Electrical
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Chassis Numbers / Dates
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http://vx800.net/workshop/Specifications/ColorChart.htm
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Brake and Wheel Specifications
Item
Rear Brake Pedal Height Brake Rotor Thickness Front
Specification
35mm /1.4 inches 5.5 +/- 0.2mm 0.197 +/- 0.008 inches 5.0mm
Limit
---
0.22 inches 0.30mm / 0.012inches
Brake Rotor Turnout
Front/ Rear Front/ Rear Front/ Rear 12.700 - 12.743 mm 0.500 - 0.5017 inches 12.657 - 12.684mm 0.4983 - 0.4993 inches 33.960 - 34.036 mm / 1.3370 - 1.34 inches 27.000 - 27.076 mm / 1.0630 - 1.0660 inches Rear 42.840 - 42.928 mm / 1.6870 - 1.6900 inches 33.884 - 33.934mm / 1.3340 - 1.3360 inches 26.920 - 26.970mm / 1.0598 - 1.0618 inches Rear 42.770 - .42.820 inches / 1.6839 1.6858 inches
Master Cylinder Bore
Master Cylinder Piston
Front Brake Calliper Cylinder Bore
Front Brake Calliper Piston diameter
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Front Wheel rim runout Rear Front Wheel axle runout Rear Front Tyre tread depth Rear
2.0mm / 0.08 inches 2.00mm / 0.08 inches 0.25mm / 0.01 inches 0.25mm / 0.01 inches 1.6mm / 0.06 inches 2.0mm / 0.08 inches
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Electrical
Electrical
Item Specification
5 degrees BTDC, below 1650rpm USA Model Ignition Timing 30 degrees BTDC Above 3500rpm 5 degrees BTDC, below 1625rpm Other Models 30 degrees BTDC Above 3750rpm Firing Order 1-2 Type: NGK DPR8EA-9 Spark Plug Gap: 0.8 - 0.9 mm / 0.031 0.035 inch Over 8mm/0.3 inch at 1 atmosphere Approx 117ohms Signal coil resistance Approx 230 ohms Generator no load voltage (when engine cold) Regulated voltage Starter motor brush length Commutator under cut Starter relay resistance More than 65v ac at 5000rpm More than 75v ac at 5000rpm 13.5 - 15.5 v at 5000rpm Limit 9mm / 0.35 inch Limit 0.2mm / 0.008inch 2 - 6 ohm Other Models USA Model Other Models USA Model
Note
Spark Performance
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Electrical
Type: YB16B-A Battery Capacity: 16 Amp Hr Standard Electrolyte SG: 1.28 at 20c / 68f Headlamp: 10A Ignition/Fan: 10A Fuse Size Signal: 10A Main: 25A
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Misc
Various Bits and Pieces

Kens bobbed tail VX800 Prototype Pictures Virginias Crash vx800 mug VX800 reviews tinbasher makes a handlebar clamp
http://vx800.net/OddsanSods/misc.htm7/23/2005 12:13:27 PM
http://vx800.net/KensMod/kensmod.jpg
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http://vx800.net/KensMod/kensmod.jpg
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Prototypes
Prototype Pictures
don.jpg
earlysktch.jpg
latesktch.jpg
vx8proto.jpg
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http://vx800.net/Prototype/latesktch.jpg
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http://vx800.net/Prototype/vx8proto.jpg
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http://vx800.net/OddsanSods/vx800mug.jpg
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SUZUKI VX800 The Unsung Workhorse
1) KATANA OR VX800 ? So why did I change from a bike which at first glance appears so different to the VX? Besides being a complete fan of T.E.Lawrence, and if a vee twin was good enough for him it certainly is good enough for me, I decided to change the Katana for a bike I perceived would slow my riding down! And until it was run in it did. For some fifteen years I have been riding along the B526 which used to be the A50 Leicester to London road in the days before the M1. It is now a quiet country lane, wide with interesting bends. The Katana succeeded in its journey along this road each day amidst howling exhausts and worn out footpegs. Ask Steve Frost of the Shutlanger Owls how quick a Katana can go on wiggly bits at speeds which feel like 125 even though the speedo only reads 60! Besides being lots of fun the Katana also had a huge fuel range with 50mpg and a 23 litre tank, the seat was comfortable and when not loaded with luggage and the regional secretary (Cherie for those who don't know)could scratch it with the best. trouble was the aggressive looks and very cammy powerband meant I travelled everywhere in a fashion which only makes me wonder how I survived for so long. And as the years pile on my reactions are most defiantly not getting any quicker. The thought of lazily plodding along on a vee twin became very attractive and therefor when Cherie said buy a new bike a went for it. It transpires that Cherie was becoming embarrassed turning up to meetings with MEPs and the like on my decidedly scruffy looking Katana. So how is the VX now? Well now its run in I find at sub three figure speeds it just as quick as the Katana but in a much more relaxed way. I am now playing computer games to speed up my reactions! 2) SUZUKI VX800-After 17,000 Miles of Abuse? As standard, the VX comes fitted with Metzeller tyres. ME33 at the front and ME55 at the back. It seems to grip the road OK though the level of feedback does not inspire confidence. It does not like white lines or road surface imperfections and in the wet it frightens. The steering is vague, the brakes make a disconcerting noise that sounds like you have run out of friction materiel and it runs out of steam around 110 mph. Enter Bridgstone BT35 tyres. These are the new ones with the
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harder compound in the centre. Firm, stable handling and no problems with white lines. Drop the yokes on the fork stanchions about an inch to speed up the steering. Pegs down in the dry and lots of confidence in the wet. Totally different bike! Change the brake pads, no more noise and better brakes. Play with the suspension settings (despite what you may have read in other magazines the VX has adjustable pre-load and damping-is adjustable for rebound and pre-load) no problems with shaft reaction and its going round the corners even better. Now the naughty bit. Take one metal rod, about two feet long and half inch in diameter (no I am not metric yet) place inside exit pipe of exhaust and hit with heavy hammer! Not forgetting to remove metal rod, start engine. Sounds exactly the same! Try out on road-bless me! 120 and still pulling, 125 and think of license before throttling back. And fuel consumption? Slightly better when 'taking it easy' at around 50 mpg dropping to 45mpg if full power and performance used (that means 100 non stop 'up north' on motorway) which is the same as before exhaust mod. The VX is getting better. Chuck off the whacking great lumps of steel pretending to be aluminium footrest guards, chuck off lots of cosmetic plastic which make it impossible to clean behind and it is a totally different bike. Handles nice, reasonable performance and fuel consumption, great fun on back lanes and enough grunt for motorway stuff. Except? No fairing for motorway stuff. Look at prices for small fly screens and see they want fifty odd quid for a bit of clear plastic. Go down to breakers and get a slightly scratched screen off a sports fairing. Attach it to polished aluminium brackets cut out of a Volvo bumper and to bike. Total cost 4. Keeps the wind off the chest just fine at high speed and not heavy enough to raise the weight around the axis of the steering and affect handling. Should you have to do all these mods to a bike? Most bikes do get modified and if it costs little then why not. Others have modified VX800 to make them more 'Touring'- fairings, panniers etc. Nice soft suspension. This one has had the balance shifted to sporting thought the term is relative. So what is the end package? Shaft drive because I either am to busy or too tired to worry about chains. 200 Mile fuel range when being sensible. Handling that is good enough for three figure back lane work. Pads seem to last about 8,000 miles at the front and 17,000 miles so far at the back but-that is with the tick-over wound down to 800 rpm to get more engine braking. Metzeller tyres lasted 4,000 at the back and 6,000 at the front. So far the BT35's look like they will outlast the
Metzellers (because they don't go square). Two problems that can't easily be solved. First is the odd looks which say to you 'where is my fairing?' and second is the seat. When new it will send your bottom to sleep in 50 miles. After a bit of use it improves and 200 miles to coincide with fuel stops is a relief (to your bottom). It is a plank, or at least thinks it is. I have sat on more comfortable fences. It does seem to be getting softer with age and use (or my bottom is getting harder). As the VX is not very common I cannot run of to someone and get an off the shelf replacement. If I think of something I'll let you know! Stephen Bergman.
3) SUZUKI VX800 50,000 miles. So it was 1994 and For value, this is much better value, daft occasionally. think of any other I took the plunge and purchased a new bike. not really a good idea, one year olds are but I told myself we should all do something At least I didnt pay list price. Cant excuses.
I had previously used an assortment of Suzukis, mostly Katanas, and after a few near misses decided to get a different sort of bike and slow down a bit. I had for many years travelled the same B class road to and from work and was amazed how much interesting stuff was over the other side of the hedges. Sitting upright on the VX800 and riding slower suddenly changed my journey. So after many years of charging around on faster bikes and after owning the VX for a year I then fell off a slower one! Not going slow though. So there I was sliding down the road on my stomach watching my pride and joy throw arcs of sparks in its wake. Quickly changing from palms to arms as my leathers wore through I watched the VX hit the roadside verge and plastic fly into the air. Fifty foot later I came to a stop behind the bike and gingerly got up and lifted the VX up to survey the damage. Dented tank, broken plastic seat surround, smashed indicators
and headlamp lens, footrest ripped off and bent gear change. And, exhaust silencer dented and pushed into rear swing arm. Sod it. Leathers trashed, Rukka waterproofs trashed, gloves trashed. Cuts and abrasions to self. I walked around and picked all the bits up then pulled the exhaust off of the suspension. The bike started ok and I kicked it into third and rode it back home. And heres the crunch. My new bike was only insured third, fire and theft! I had been insured ok with various companies in the past, Norwich Union, Eagle Star etc but had been refused insurance for the VX by Eagle Star as they considered it a greater risk than the Katana. I did think that was weird. Other quotes for fully comprehensive were silly so it was third fire and theft. Perhaps Eagle Star did know their onions after all? My cuts and abrasions were sufficient to keep me off work for a while so I got on with sorting the VX out. I had the footrest welded back together, headlamp was replaced by a standard round car jobby from a scrappy (5). Indicators were replaced with aftermarkets and the seat plastic surround repaired using soldering iron and fibreglass resin. Petrol tank filled with Plastic Padding and exhaust filled with a laminate of aluminium foil and Araldite. Exhaust was painted silver and the tank and plastic gloss black. It looked a heap of s**t but was sound, wouldnt deteriorate any more and importantly could continue to get me the forty miles to and from work all year round. Oh, and the clothing was treated to copious amounts of gaffer tape! Thus it stayed for many a year. Then we get to 2000 and I no longer needed the bike for work and entered the ranks of leisure biker. Proper rebuild time! After all, although the VX had no rust and was reliable it had a good 50,000 miles on the clock and was worth next to nothing if it was sold but given a bit of care would continue to serve my purposes very well. The VX had, by this time, been fitted with a rack and panniers dead useful. The broken silencer had given up the ghost and the exhaust system had been cunningly converted to a two into one. This had been achieved easily, as there was a crossover pipe
between the engine and the rear wheel. Cut off the damaged silencer and block the hole up. A long spike banged up the remaining silencer kept the gas flowing and it worked a treat! I had taken a chance on the soft tuned VX having little valve overlap and being tolerant of its exhausts. Got away with it too. Mind you by then the bike looked as doggy as a doggy thing. There was only three non-self inflicted troubles with the bike during its 50,000 miles and all happened after 30,000 miles. First was the bearing seal in the shaft drive giving out and sprinkling the shaft drive oil onto the back of the bike whilst heading north along the M1. Easily fixed in less than an hour. Second was the rear carburettor flooding occasionally cured by a new needle valve and seating. The carb was twisted around in its housing and the parts replaced in situ. Easy enough. Third was clutch slip. Replaced with aftermarket parts. Non of the faults caused complete failure to achieve journeys end so I am rightly pleased with reliability. The rebuild was mostly paint, as although the bike was scruffy it had never been allowed to rust. The principle used being if the paint gives way slap anything on rather than nothing. It did take some time, as you would expect, preparation is the keyword here. However, all the stripping down was easier than normal as practically everything had been off and greased with copperslip quite early in the bikes life. This was as a result of dire warnings from friends within the trade of the quaint Japanese custom of dry construction. The opportunity was taken to do something about the seat. I used to think it was me getting older that caused my arse to go to sleep after a hundred miles or so. It never used to; I could ride 250 300 miles in comfort on earlier bikes. However, talking to young uns found that they suffered the same problem. I now reckon that it must be due to a change of foam by the manufacturers. A friend added some sleeping mat foam to the original and then recovered the seat with black leather. Its not up to what I remember but is better than the previous lack of comfort. The practicality of leather, or not, is tempered by my leisure use and a good quality leather feed and
waterproofed. The exhaust system was still the bodged original. Yes really! This is despite its trip along the road early in its life. It was less one silencer and converted two into one. The remaining silencer was sheathed in copper and the system was painted up but, non-the less, it had not rotted through. This was achieved by the addition of two stoke or engine oil every month to the petrol. Half a pint to the petrol tank full did the trick and it didnt appear to smoke noticeably or dirty the plugs etc. Did the trick though. So it is now treated with a new replacement. Not a Suzuki original. That would be silly. It would cost a fortune, would weigh a ton and it isnt very practical being constructed with the downpipes and silencer as one. It was replaced by a Jama aftermarket system. Separate downpipes and silencers allowing silencers only to be changed. Much lighter than original too. In addition it is stamped up with the appropriate BS No and legal. Doesn't stop it from sounding nice though. It is also being treated to the occasional dose of oil in an attempt to lengthen its silencer life. Other modifications were - to the rear brake. This is the usual Suzuki opposed piston calliper as used on loads of in house bikes. The standard set up is mounted above the swing arm with a torque arm mounted from a lug on the calliper to a welded on bracket on top of the swinging arm almost at the bearing. New, it works fine. Otherwise its main attribute is to seize up double quick and, being opposed pistons it will be one piston only seized and a b*******d to release. So now the lug on the calliper has been removed and the calliper allowed to swing down below the swinging arm. Torque arm is replaced by mounting from one of the calliper mount bolts using a handlebar bracing rod fixed to a new bracket underneath the swinging arm. So now I suppose your wondering what purpose this modification achieves besides lowering the centre of gravity? Well lowering the C of G was not the purpose of the exercise the difference being meaningless on this type of bike. The purpose was to stop the brake from seizing. Ok, so it now hangs even closer to all the road muck. However, the brake pads are fixed in the callipers
by two pins through their top edge normally thus allowing them to hang between the pistons. Now they are fixed at the bottom edge and, in practice, they rattle around when the brake isnt applied and never get clogged up! In addition, the strange water coolant thingy fixed on the right under the petrol tank has been removed. I used to think it was some sort of expansion tank for the coolant but it seems no. It just seems to stop coolant from falling on the floor when overfilled and expanded. So it gone and the vent pipe now travels down the front frame downtube to free air. In the thousands of miles since this conversion the coolant has never needed topping up. And finally the seized rear shocks were replaced with Hagon aftermarket jobbies. These were made up with a slightly heavier spring rate than standard to assist in load carrying. The standard Japanese bee in a tin hooter was thrown over the nearest hedge and replaced with one from a car. Obtained free from a wreck. Its loud and it works. If you want to do this just make sure that if your hooter has two connections you replace it with one with two connections. Seems obvious but a lot of car ones work different. Most bikes supply power to the hooter then your switch earths it. A lot of cars simply supply power via a switch and the hooter is earthed permanent - hence only one connection. The whole package was finished off with a small adjustable screen. Us oldies like our comfort. The performance of the VX has been pretty consistent. The 19 litre fuel tank should give you between 120 and 190 miles before reserve and at least 20 safe miles before you start pushing. In reality there is dead areas in the tank and you can expect around 150 miles with another 10 in reserve unless youre stupid or brave! The tyres are worth careful consideration. As standard the VX comes equipped with a Metzeler ME33, 110/80 x 18, at the front end and a Metzeller ME55, 150/70 x 17 at the back end. In its
life my VX has also used Super Venoms from Avon at 100/90 and 110/90 on the front, Bridgestones BT35 goes very nice at the back. A Bridgestone Exedra 110/70 x 18 was tried at the front and Avon Azaro radials both ends in standard sizes. And here are the tyre championships with points being awarded from one to ten. Front, Metzeller gets three out of ten. Avon Super venom 100/90 gets five out of ten and the 110/90 six out of ten. The Bridgetsones get seven out of ten with the Azaros at least nine out of ten. At the back the Metzeller scares us rigid with two out of ten, Bridgestone comes in at six out of ten and the Azaro flies through at nine out of ten. Funny thing is the Azaros win on all counts, they grip more, they feel better, and they also last longer. The super Venom/Bridgestones are acceptable but the Metzellers are comparably scary. Why Suzuki fitted them as standard is anybodys guess. If they had fitted better tyres perhaps the bike would have got better reviews? Air cleaners are paper disposable and expensive with the rear cylinder cleaner down near the front of the back wheel. Suzuki recommends cleaning them at 4,000 miles and replacement at 7,500 miles. Usually the rear one needs changing and the front one doesn't. So swap them over at 4,000 miles and then again at 8,000 miles replacing them at 12,000 miles to make the filters last longer. Valve clearances are regular screw and Access is limited but with the correct is available quite cheaply, adjustment it seems to need adjusting much. Ive times in 50,000 miles and Im fussy. locknut adjustment. spanner adjuster, which is very easy. Not that had to adjust them three
Oil filter is your usual screw on job located at the front of the engine. You can even get chrome plated ones! Some people have suggested that using only mineral oil will help to reduce clutch slip. In practice, I have found good oil quality is the
key. The least problems I had with clutch slip when the clutch was worn were with synthetic oil. The oil always looks dirty though, even from new. Dunno why. The electronic ignition timing shouldnt need adjusting unless youve been playing with it. The two spark plugs do need replacing on the full service, as they seem to have a hard life. I have tried different brands without any appreciable difference in wear or performance. The only noticeable thing is that Champion plugs have a different hexagon drive size so the standard plug spanner doesnt fit! Not that the plugs are that easy to access. Theres no bodywork in the way there just recessed miles down into the Ali work on the head.
Riding the VX800 is easy and simple. Theres nothing to frighten you, no power bands. Lots of low down torque, easy clutch and brakes and low seat height. The single back and front discs are up to the job though not up to sports bike standards and the suspension is adequate. Standard rear dampers are adjustable for load, compression and rebound damping. But adjust them early in their life as the adjustment knobs soon seize. If your looking for a reliable, if unexciting commuter or tourer, the VX800 should be OK for you. Not that many about and they were never very popular. So dont pay a lot and you wont have to sell it for a lot. Just remember the tyre thing when you test it! Steve Bergman
4) LIVING WITH A VX800 - Stephen Bergman The VX has been around for some time now. Ugly but loved. You do not see many about but it is interesting to note that those who do get them usually hang on to them. Perhaps it is too sensible? In buying a VX I did not make the choice on looks. Suzuki could have made minor changes to improve the appearance but seemed to choose a 'corporate style' which does not sit well with other aspects of the design. However, more on this later.
The VX can return as much as 70 mpg ridden 'sensibly' but in 'normal' use returns around 50 mpg giving a range of 160 miles before reserve with a gallon left. This is just about right for the new VX as the seat becomes unbearable after 150 miles. Fortunately, after time the seat does give and then is much more comfortable. Or has my rear end become harder! As with any modern bike oil consumption is zero. The riding position is good and can be changed given the VX comes with normal handlebars allowing changes to facilitate rider size. Brakes are adequate but will get hot and bothered with repeated high speed use. The fork legs and wheel have no provision for fitting of an extra disc, which is a shame. I am told that the front end from a Kawasaki ZX10 will fit but it would probably only be of benefit if you ride hard all of the time in which case you have got the wrong bike! The VX is well at home on all road types. Handling is good once the standard Metzeller tyres have been replaced with Bridgstone BT35 or Perrelli Dragon GT. In fact the improvement is enormous. This is allied with longer tyre life. I must admit to being surprised at the choice of Metzeller tyres on the VX. I have owned a number of Suzuki's and they all benefitted by NOT having Metzellers. The front suspension is not adjustable but seems to be about right. Twin rear shocks are adjustable for pre-load, compression and rebound damping and are very good. Other than not being invisible the shaft drive is up to the usual Suzuki standard being totally unobtrusive. Doing naughty things like braking late half way round a corner or opening the throttle appears to have no affect. Performance is also better than expected. The vee twin motor turns out a respectable amount of torque through the rev range making lazy gear changes possible and leading to a relaxed riding style. Top whack is around 115 mph but I am told that a minor modification to the exhaust, without noticeable increase in sound levels, will put another 10 mph on this and improve fuel consumption! How about repair costs? In an unplanned experiment, a VX800 was low sided at high speed. What damage occurred? Most importantly the slim engine design meant it never touched the ground. The silencer was scrapped, but is still usable. Some damage to the tail and side panel plastic and the usual broken indicators. The bike was picked up, checked over and ridden
home. The plastic and other items can be repaired locally to 'as new' for around 200. The exhaust is more of a problem given the one piece nature of modern bike exhausts. Fortunately JAMA now make a replacement system for about 200 with the option of stainless steel. Whilst repairs were being carried out I tried out a fairing on the VX to help those long boring motorway journeys. The fairing was from an early, twin shock, GSX750 and was previously fitted to one of my Katana's. It looked good and worked well. Too well, and for the sake of my license has now been removed. Arm and neck ache on the motorway does wonders towards the cleanliness of driving licenses! The surprise was that there was more than adequate slack on the wiring loom to fit the fairing which made me wonder if Suzuki were planning to bring out a faired model in a similar way to the Bandit range. Secondly, upon fitting rigid panniers I find that Suzuki have built in mounting points. Strange. I would say that given a half fairing and optional panniers, Suzuki would have sold more and had competition against the XJ 900 Yamaha, an excellent budget tourer. To conclude, an excellent bike that makes a superb low maintenance all rounder. Do not be put off by the strange tank styling - you can't see it when sat astride so it is no problem. Unless, of course, you worry what others see more than you do!
5) SUZUKI VX800 Steve Bergman
The Unsung Workhorse?
Approach the Suzuki VX800 from behind and the shape of the seat/ tail fairing blending in to the large tank appears swoopy and stylish. Approach from the front and the tank shape looks completely wrong. The bike looks ungainly and you go on to wonder where the fairing is. More of that later. But from either direction your eyes are eventually taken to very imposing engine. Large, silver and a V-twin. First comments are usually, 'Nice engine'. Water cooled over head cam 45 degree Vtwin. At first sight the engine looks air cooled, Fins have been added to the outside of the cylinders over the water jacket making the engine appear larger than otherwise and the radiator
has been carefully tucked away at the front. Enough power and loads of low down torque. The appearance of the engine is only half of it. It delivers too. So what else is there to know about a Suzuki VX800? Well there is the 19 litre fuel tank. Or to put it into perspective between 120 and 190 miles before reserve and at least 20 safe miles before you start pushing. A big difference that reflects how radically the fuel consumption can change with type of use (or abuse). At a steady (yawn) 60 mph you may reach the dizzy heights of 70 mpg whereas at speeds which will lose you your license and make your arms and neck ache, lets say at over 100 mph officer, you may only achieve 35 mpg. Realistic (non-neck ache) everyday use of 80 mph on the motorway and 70 mph on single carriageways will give you 45-55 mpg. All on unleaded of course and via old fashioned off/on/reserve fuel tap. Well that's the fuel sorted out how does the VX deliver the resulting energy. A nice clean shaft drive. I know a chain is supposed to be better but only if you look after it and have you seen the price of replacement chains? Yes, I know that a bike can have better handling with chain drive, but honestly, only really at extreme limits and Suzuki seem not to have that BMW problem. In normal use you wouldn't know there was a shaft drive all those strange reactions which the likes of BMW revel in seem to have left the Suzuki designers alone. Besides who wants to mess about adjusting a chain on a cold, wet February evening after work? Gearbox is fine. It works without effort and just gets on with its job. I can't think of anything to say about it at all which means I don't even remember using it. Just like controls should be - trouble free and allow you to enjoy the journey. What else? Rear suspension is adjustable for spring pre-load, compression and rebound damping. If it isn't working properly then your well overweight, skinny as hell or havn't adjusted it properly. Just remember to take them off and oil or grease the adjusting controls as they are a bit exposed and may seize although this wouldn't be a problem if you had them adjusted to your weight and riding style first! Front end is not adjustable
and you may suffer some dive problems riding fast or two up. This can be partially alleviated by changing the grade of fork oil or using a mixture of grades. Back brake is the usual Suzuki opposed piston job looking different but just the same as fitted to a long line of GS Suzuki across the frame fours. Clean it out regular and it will work fine. Taking the shims out so the pads rattle in the callipers and putting copper slip onto the pins that hold the pads should guarantee they don't seize on you. At the front we feature a twin pot job fitted as standard with the amazing Suzuki singing pads. The front brake works just fine under normal use though it can get hot and bothered under repeated hard application. The brake continues to work but the disc will turn a nice shade of blue which may not match the colour scheme on the rest of the bike. You will find that after market pads work just as well and don't sing the fact to all and sundry that you have just applied your front brake. Again, proper and regular maintenance will stop any problems occurring with the front brake. The tyres are worth careful consideration upon replacement. As standard the VX comes equipped with a Metzeler ME33, 110/80 x 18, at the front end and a Metzeller ME55, 150/70 x 17 at the back end. The ME33/55 have been around for some time now. The expression Jurassic springs to mind. I know they seem to work well on some bikes and I expect Suzuki or Metzeler have done 'Exhaustive Testing'. Yeah, right! You probably will have no idea exactly what is happening beneath you and will become very familiar with all the white lines and road marking on your journeys. Alternatively change the tyres for just about anything else and get an improvement. Super Venom from Avon 100/90 and 110/90 work better than the ME33 at the front which says a lot about ME33 as the Super Venom are the wrong sizes! They are also cheaper. Bridgstone BT35 goes very nice at the back, is cheaper than a ME55 and lasts longer. It also grips the road better! Use a Bridgestone Exedra at the front and you will certainly be a happy chappy. Use of a Bridgestone Exedra 110/70 x 18 at the front will speed up the turning considerably over a 80 or 90 aspect ratio without any high speed straight
line worries. Another alternative for those with a little more disposable income is to fit Pirelli Dragon GT radials. Even better. I think you get the message that you can make vast improvements on the standard handling by experimenting with tyre choice. Air cleaners are separate paper disposable types for each cylinder and the one for the rear cylinder is down near the swinging arm bearing just in front of the back wheel. Suzuki recommend cleaning them at 4,000 miles and replacement at 7,500 miles. When you go to change them at the recommended interval you will find that this rear one does need changing and the front one doesn't. So instead of changing them at the recommended interval clean them and swap them over at 4,000 miles and then again at 8,000 miles replacing them at 12,000 miles to make the filters last longer. Valve clearances are by locknut and screw and seem to stay within tolerance. They should be checked every 4,000 miles and though they can be a bit tricky to get at but it becomes easier with practise. Oil and oil filter are changed at 8,000 miles. One thing that always seems worthwhile these days is to spend a little time each weekend taking the odd component off or undoing the odd nut and bolt and applying copper slip. It will help you to remove the part in later years and also show you that some of the Japanese manufacturers don't like lubricating components upon assembly. If you don't do this you may find, for instance, that the back shocks have rusted themselves to the frame. Whilst your at it undo the block connecters on the wring and put some silicon or something in as they corrode like Billy-O and you will soon end up with a dead bike. All this knowledge will help you to make sure the bike you are buying is a good one or negotiate the price accordingly! So what is the 'more later' with regard to why the VX800 has a tank shape that looks like it ought to have a fairing? If you remove the headlamp from its shell the first thing you
will notice is the unusually long wiring loom. Quite enough in fact to fit an after market fairing without an extension being needed for the loom. Then of course there is the 'corporate image' that Suzuki have with their Bandit range of bikes which also have the plastic bits to fill in the front of the frame. Except the ones that have a fairing! Did Suzuki originally intend to bring out a VX800 with a fairing later? Its a shame they didn't do it in the first place. Re-enforcing the previous statement we find that behind the passenger footrests there is mounting point for pannier frames already drilled and tapped. It would be easy to take the view that Suzuki saw the VX800 as a budget tourer with half fairing and optional panniers. In fact, those that have fitted these from after market suppliers will tell you that this is a role that the VX800 fills very well indeed. It will cruise quite happily at 100 mph two up with a fairing fitted to improve comfort. It is reliable and will go on for high mileage. You could have had a good one here Suzuki but got it wrong enough so no-one knows quite how to categorize it. But never mind. To us who are looking for a bike that performs reasonably, will tour and commute and is reasonable on the pocket to run all this is good news because we can buy one of these bikes for fair money and be very happy chappies! Unless your are wanting the thrills, and spills, of an all out sports bike or the absolute top speed that only comes with power then you are likely to be very happy with your VX800 V-twin Suzuki.
Tinbasher making a stainless handlebar clamp
Tinbasher making a stainless handlebar clamp

These pictures were sent to me from Tinbasher (aka Richard Morgan) so I have put them into 3 pages for all to see.
The words and comments are mine - Richard is too modest a fellow to praise his own work :))
Richard is by trade a metalworker so has skills that us mere amateurs can only dream of, to say nothing of access to some fancy machines (he claims not, but a welding machine, bandsaw and belt sander are not in the average workshop). To continue, Richard managed to acquire a large piece of marine quality stainless steel from which he hast made several interesting accessories for the VX800. We have all seen the radiator overflow tank he made, Ultrabrace, headlamp hangers and the handlebar clamp (the one at TWO in 2003) see here.
So here are some extra pictures showing the handlebar clamp in the various stages of build.
The components The finished clamp The polishing machine For those interested here is a picture of the master himself - been at the Australian wine again ? :))
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New Page 2
Tinbasher Clamp - the bits

Here are the parts that go to make up the Tinbasher clamps - 3 in all plus welding and polishing. Shows how much time, effort and skill is needed. The bar clamp was made by cutting a few strips from the 75mm x 16mm bar in a power saw then tack welding them together on the ends to enable him to drill the hole which he did on the pedestal drill. The top plate was cut to basic shape on a bandsaw then filed by hand. Richard cut the thick bits down a bit on the bandsaw and shaped them on a sanding belt , welded them together and ground off the weld on the belt as well. A bit more hand work than you may have thought and most of it done at lunch time at work , the final smooth finish was done at his home - mostly with emery paper and a small high speed grinder. A real unselfish labour of love for other VX800 owners.
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Just watch in the next page how those ill fitting clamps have been shaped to match the top clamp bar!!
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Tinbasher Handlebar Clamp - the final product

Here we see the clamp welded up - no mean feat with stainless
Now it has been smoothed out ready for the final polishing
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An there we have it
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And on the bike - now he is thinking of cutting it to add a clock!
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Tinbasher's Polishing Machine

Richard bought a simple bench grinder to polish his bits to a mirror finish. Did Richard leave his grinder standard (like I did) - oh no - he has made some really useful extras. I am off to the workshop to copy these modifications - there Richard a compliment at last :)) Here is a standard bench grinder with a wire wheel at one end and a polishing mop at the other. Or is it? What is that funny looking thing near the wire wheel?
Richard has added a flywheel and a homemade nose. The flywheel is needed to help keep the rotational speed constant when pressure is applied to the mop. And then he has added a sandpaper disk to the flywheel to flatten things out on.
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Richard also added a big guard to catch the polish off the mop. I am sent for a bath/shower after polishing, no doubt Richard gets away clean. Another compliment coming Richard when I get the material.
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Tools
Set
EU Headbearing set US Headbearing set
EU Forktool EU Tappet tool
Current Holder
Brian Ferenc Kovac Brian Brian
Suggested use of tools

Holder is responsible for sending them onwards and paying the postage and packing. On sending them the holder will mail me and I will update the site to show the next holder.
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Rally Pictures
Rally Accounts and Pictures 1999

Normandy - Alain's Pictures Normandy - Ian Johnsons Account Normandy -Richards Account Michelle Rally - Richards Account
2000
Ken Rally - Richards Account Ken Rally - Pascals Account Zegge Rally
2001
Vosges Rally - Henks Pictures Vosges Rally - Pascal's Pictures two Georgia Mountains Rally - scotts report Welsh Rally - Richard's Report
2002
TWO - Scott Bogues Report Andreville (Belgium) - all reports Henk's Yorkshire Rally pictures
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Normandy Rally
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www.vx800.org.uk - Zegge Rally (March 2000)
Zegge Rally - March 2000
Ko's driveway
Willem de Boer on the back in the Schoolstraat
Harald, Wim leereveld, Pascal Vervoort's girlfriend Sophie, Veerle Peeters, Andr (on the back, Joppe, Ger Harthoorn, Ko, Ren
Ren and Ben on bike in the Schoolstraat.
Ren is inspected by Harald :).
Ger, Veerle, Harald, Veerle and Andr in Pascal, Brian (on the the Harthoorn's back) in the Schoolstraat kitchen.
Veerle, Joppe, Andr
Pascal (on the back), Pascal's girlfriend
Brian , Wim Leereveld in the Harthoorn's sun lounge
Ko, Brian, Andr (on the back), Ben's left ear :), Wim Leereveld, Henk (on the back)
Ko showing his presents to us :)
The Ladies found the strip show of mild interest.
Ko, Harald, Joppe, Henk, Brian.
Coffee break at the Speelmansplaten
Brian, Andr, Ko standing, Joppe, ?, Caty Warnitz
20. There's a tower Brian drops some from where you have The bikes lined up money - Ko attempts Stop at the Kreekraksluizen also at the sluices (or a nice view at the to catch it before it locks and the are they called locks?) hits the floor. surroundings.
Group at the right: Ren, Henk, Ger (on the back), Willem de Boer.
View from above at the bikes.
Brian's polishing Ren and Ko coming down The Grand Old Duke Ren's windscreen at from the viewpoint. of York .... the Harthoorn's.
Andr, Willem Leereveld, Ger
Harald, Joppe, Brian, Ren, Pascal and Sophie
Henk, Veerle, Joppe, Andr, Pascal and Sophie, Caty enjoying the erwtensoup and worstenbroodjes.
Photographs Robert Marc Makovicka

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www.vx800.org.uk - Zegge Rally (March 2000)
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Scott Bogue
Scott Bogue's Report for TWO 2002

May 11-20 The VX Rally. After a year of planning and anticipation, the big noisy airplane dumped a rotund bearded Englishman into Concourse C at Raleigh, NC on May 11. Brian was identifiable by his riding jacket and boots, but didn't complete the disguise by wearing his helmet as expected. Off to home in the Pontiac, in wonder at the weight of his satchel which was approximately the size of a drugstore and weighed over 700 pounds. It was full of metal goodies and, it turns out, contraband English cheddar that was toothsome indeed when melted over toast. I wondered what he saw as we traveled on I-40 away from Raleigh in afternoon rush hour traffic. He has been to the US before but never before with the intent of riding a motorcycle among swarms of demented SUV pilots who all drive on the wrong side of the road. On arrival about supper time, we got to see what all the weight was about. A marvelous spread of chrome goodies, in the Brian's Bits tradition, to include a set of mirrors, three bar clamp bridges, a pack of chrome nuts, three rear drive plugs, and headlight brackets. A certain amount of back-andforth ensued in an effort to find a common language, then it was toddle off to bed to recover from the week to come. Just before bedtime we got a call from Dan Flowers, the young Englishman we bought Brian's Bike from. He was trying to get in touch with for Doc Steve, who planned to meet Brian the next day at Michael's Bar and Grill in Carrboro, NC for the Sunday bike gathering. We invited Dan to ride up with Doc, or by himself if Doc was busy. Sunday morning early came Charlie and Julie from their chez in Lewisville. Brian hopped onto Brian's Bike and pronounced it good, and in the clear fragrant Spring we rode the 60 country miles down to Michael's. Met some friends and habitus, a bit of a small crowd, then saw Doc Steve and Dan heading our way through the chrome and plastic. Intros all around, then off to the tables and troughs for breakfast. Quinn Miller was there, with his daughter Maggie and her fianc Greg. Nice surprise. Quinn rides a Wing, but is otherwise normal. After a bit of encouragement just before departure time, we got Doc Steve and Dan Flowers to ride with us back toward Greensboro through the country. It was perfect, no traffic, fresh blacktop,
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Scott Bogue
scent of honeysuckle and wild roses overlaid with fresh cut hay. At the planned gas and goodbye stop at I-40, we prevailed upon Doc and Dan to join us for lunch. Trish put together a sumptuous chicken salad, and there came a ring of the bell and there stood Rick and Tree, good friends (VFR; Wing; CB450) who had been invited but had indicated prior commitments. Another pleasant surprise. Monday morning dawned clear, a little warm, and Brian had already suffered a bit from the heat on Sunday. A proper Spring in his isle tops out at 50 degrees, so 80+ was equivalent to Broil with the oven door closed. I rode with him down to the entrance to I-40 at Whitsett, east of Greensboro, gassed up the bikes, then off he went with Union Jack flying and his best wide-eyed stammer fully practiced for the anticipated encounters with the fuzz. I envied him a bit but never worried about the bike, just hoped he wouldn't have to swerve too soon in his conversion to right side of the road and all that. The brain would serve up the wrong swerve, down he would go, all scuffed Cordura and busted motorcycle. He was off to meet Clyde in Richmond, VA for lunch, thence to chez Chen for dinner and snooze. As I found out later, he rode through a strong thunderstorm after lunch. The week went by, a little oddly because the rally had already begun and here I was at work. Snuck in a small ride midweek, just to keep the tush in shape don't'cha know. Doc Steve arrived Thursday night from Fayetteville, and soon after that it was time for bed. Bikes were ready and packed, weather forecast was for Good to Superb, and routes were decided on. Trish wanted to ride her own ride, do some back roads on the way. Doc Steve and I had planned to meet Fowler in Hickory, but he was deep into a volts shortage by way of a failed coil. We met Charlie and Julie in Mocksville and headed for TWO, much disappointed but not as much as Fowler, who wanted to go last year but felt his experience was insufficient. We were intent on making the Pisgah Inn on the Blue Ridge Parkway by lunch time, there to meet the DC and Northeast contingents. It's a tradition, see. A landslide had closed part of the BRP so we had to slog through Asheville and a bit of motorcycle-unfriendly Rt 23 through Enka before getting onto NC151, which eventually becomes quite entertaining as it climbs the mountain's flank in the tradition of such things. Even got to ride that happy confluence of curves and inclines in the complete absence of 4-wheeled
Scott Bogue
stink-bugs, most of which are piloted by decent human beings but who are not welcome when it's time to lean
the bike, apply throttle, and grin. To those who have been blooded on Hwy 180, 151 is much like that.
At the top was the Blue Ridge Parkway, even less trafficked because of the closure and thus pleasant indeed. On arrival at the Inn, there were anonymous motorcycles to be seen but no VX's with smiling friends aboard. We discussed it for a long microsecond, then decided to eat instead of waiting. I hoped Trish was OK, because she was on her own. Just as lunch was winding down, there arrived Jim Chen, Clark Ball, Bill Lawrence, and Tom Baldauf. It appeared that Glen F. had suffered an electrical problem and was in the midst of a repair odyssey. I have long warned Glen that he had a perfectly good VX to ride and that the GS650 was just bad karma, so felt he deserved to be stranded. Just too many cylinders, too many carburetors, and not enough cylinder angle. Perhaps Glen feels that Della's ownership of a VX covers him as well. OK, it does, but tell that to a GS stator. The barrister-led contingent soon left with the NC wobblers and headed off down the BRP, but the NC group soon warmed the tires left 'em behind. It's too beautiful on the BRP to hammer down it without looking around, but the ones who've seen the sights before tend to take advantage and focus on the road. Hope Jim and associates had a pleasant ride, and took time to stop and smell the sights. The NC riders re-entered the real world at US23, headed toward Franklin and the scenic mountain crossing on US64. Left on East Vineyard (old 64, takes you back 40 years) when the mountain faded into flats, down to Lake Chatuge and the Georgia border, then through Hiawassee, Rt 75 to 180, 180 to TWO, yee-haaaaa. No Trish, but I had not expected her. A pretty sight it was, VX's to the horizon in the parking lot and old friends to greet and shake hands with. Brian and Giselle soon arrived, as did the DC group. A pleasant surprise awaited: Hugh Bisco. No Fowler, no way to know if he would shuffle off his mortified coil and find his way but knowing him, it would come to pass. He did arrive about 9:00, cold and less than enamored of a dark, twisty, unfamiliar road that did have one redeeming feature: it got him to TWO.
Scott Bogue
The Cavalcade that pulled in just before dark contained our list owner, Farokh, after a short jaunt from NY. His mount was forgiven him in view of his ownership of a VX. The ride home on Sunday started late as I could make it, partly because it was COLD. We watched VX'rs heading out, some for long distances, and envied 'em all. They were going places we had never been. It was about 60 deg. at departure time, 1:30 pm, and Brian, Fowler, Doc Steve, Trish and I hit the road. The Keefes had decided to take a few extra days and properly celebrate their anniversary, and put in some miles in Tennessee. Over 180, perfect conditions, but in no rush this time. There actually IS a beautiful forest surrounding 180. It was chilly climbing over the mountain on US64, but we pushed on to Waynesville and stoked the boilers at Arby's. Decided to do the BRP again and layered up with all we had brought, but it was a chilly ride. Stopped for coffee and relief about 4:00 in a truck stop sort of place on I-40 near Black Mountain, tacky gifts and all, and a little Dairy Queen at one end. Brian captivated the young lady behind the counter, and she was just one invitation away from jumping on the back and riding off with this suave stranger. She kept asking him to "say something". Back on 40, drone drone buffet buffet. Doc Steve and Fowler never complained, but they were cold the whole time and as daylight faded, they were still two hours from home. We watched Fowler peel off at NC321 on his way to Charlotte, couldn't do anything for him but hoped he'd make it before hypothermia set in. Soon afterward Steve decided to take another route, so we waved 'bye to him but were later mystified to see his blaze orange bike and helmet in the mirrors as we got off the Interstate onto 64 east of Statesville. It was about 8:30 and we knew he had two hours to go, and had to be in surgery at 7:00 the next morning. One last stop for gas about 30 miles from warm and quiet, then pulled into the driveway about 9:40 pm. 330 miles. We thought about all the other riders on the road and hoped they had arrived home safe. A bit of conversation, then it was off to bed.
Scott Bogue
Rally Pictures
Some Other Pictures
Tinbasher ForkBrace Jos Humprey's pictures - includes OT's VX750 Pascal's VX with Tempest Fairing Brian's Bike brian's bike on lift Mike Remboldt Rick and Bruce Rick B Rick B#2 Rick B#3 4 West Coast VXers virginia Loads of Misc Pictures giselle's vx800 Pete's Bike (Aus) Bill Lawrence's VX with riffle fairing peter's Silver vx800 and with Travelcade seat brian's Phoenix Project JJ with VX at the MarMar Terry Gittoes' VX800 Scott Bogue richard (Tinbasher) andr peters' VX800 dennis bigham's vx800 with buell blast flyscreen Brian's vx800 in the dark The 2 VX's of wim and hanny mitch's vx800 Ken Owensby's sprint st Ken owensby's vx800 JF's vx800 in Canada
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Rally Pictures
JF's vx800 in Canada and another Mike Remboldts Purple Monster VX with Hannigan fairing Kevin Gaddes VX800 (Aus)
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New Page 1
Jos Humphrey's Pictures
With OT on his VX750 - the VS750 engine in a VX800 chassis
Again with OT. Note OEM cowling of Jos's black VX800
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The VX800 Phoenix

23 Feb: The Beginning
So here are all the bits (well actually not quite...) that I am going to start building my next VX from. These are the basic bikes - the 2 frames plus Yves VX which has covered some 90,000 miles.
And another view. These are two 'M' s and a 'N' Some side pannels and a seat. Also boxes full of parts already removed. Boxes on new parts - including new radiator, engine covers, cables etc
Yves long suffering VX now needs an engine re-build
A box of parts - including a Rennetec carrier
Box of new parts
Box of good used parts
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New Page 2
Richard 'Tinbasher' VX800

Me and the VX in the back yard
90,000km on the clock and still going strong
How do you like the number plate?
The sun in Australia cooked my header tank so i made a new one. Matt finish 316 stainless steel the sun won't cook this one
Then I made the MK2 version, with the polished front
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Andr Peters VX800
Andr Peeters VX800

Andr's VX800 has been re-painted in a lovely deep blue/white pearl. Between the two colours is gold piping. The overall effect is stunning, these pictures do not do it justice. And not only that - look at the amount of chrome:))
Look for the Laser exhaust and the Corbin seat.
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The Buell Blast fly screen on Dennis Bigham
The Buell Blast fly screen on Dennis Bigham's VX800 - 1
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Mitch
Mitch's VX800
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Mitch
Mitch
Ken Owensby
Ken Owensby's Triumph Sprint ST

March 2002 - Ken sold his Ducati Monster 900 and bought this British Racing Green Triumph
Look carefully at this next picture - the forks and brakes are the same as the ones going on Brian's VX800
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Ken Owensby
Ken Owensby
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Ken Owensby
Ken Owensby's Rebuilt VX800

April 2002
Comes with a Rifle Fairing and BSM exhaust system
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Ken Owensby
Ken Owensby
Ken Owensby
Engine Fiche
Engine
B02_Cylinder head (front) B03_Cylinder head (front) B04_Cylinder head (rear) B05_Cylinder head (rear) B06_Cylinder B07_Crankcase B08_Crankcase B09_Crankcase cover B10_Crankshaft B11_Starter clutch B12_Camshaft - Valves B13_Cam chain Carbs/Oil Pump/Coolant Clutch/Gearbox/Drive Hub Lights/Wiring Harness Frame Forks/Handlebar Rear Shocks/Swinging Arm/Wheel
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Carbs
engine
Carbs/Oil Pump/Coolant
C02_Carburetor (front) C03_Carburetor (front) C04_Carburetor (front) C05_Carburetor (rear) C06_Carburetor (rear) C07_Carburetor (rear) C08_Air cleaner (front) C09_Air cleaner (rear) C10_Muffler C11_Oil pump - fuel pump C12_Water pump C13_Radiator C14_Radiator
Clutch/Gearbox/Drive Hub Lights/Wiring Harness Frame Forks/Handlebar Rear Shocks/Swinging Arm/Wheel
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Clutch
engine Carbs/Oil Pump/Coolant
Clutch/Gearbox/Drive Hub
D02_Clutch D03_Clutch D04_Transmission D05_Transmission D06_Secondary drive gear D07_Gear shifting D08_Gear shifting D09_Propeller shaft - Final drive gear D10_Propeller shaft - Final drive gear Lights/Wiring Harness Frame Forks/Handlebar Rear Shocks/Swinging Arm/Wheel
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Electrics
engine Carbs/Oil Pump/Coolant Clutch/Gearbox/Drive Hub
Lights/Wiring Harness
E02_Starting motor E03_Magneto E04_Battery E05_Electrical E06_Speedo- Tachometer E07_Headlamp model L_M_N E1,E2 E08_Headlamp model L_M_N exc E1,E2 E09_Headlamp model P_R E2,E24 E10_Headlamp model P_R exc E2,E24 E11_Turn signal lamp E12_Rear combination lamp model L_M_N E13_Rear combination lamp model L_M_N E14_Rear combination lamp model P_R E15_Rear combination lamp model P_R E16_Wiring harness Frame Forks/Handlebar Rear Shocks/Swinging Arm/Wheel
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Frame
engine Carbs/Oil Pump/Coolant Clutch/Gearbox/Drive Hub Lights/Wiring Harness
Frame
F02_Frame model L_M_N_P F03_Frame model L_M_N_P F04_Frame model R F05_Stand_Rear Brake F06_Footrest F07_Footrest F08_Fuel tank model L_M_N_P F09_Fuel tank model R F10_Fuel cock F11_Seat F12_Frame cover model L_M F13_Frame cover model L_M F14_Frame cover model N_P F15_Frame cover model N_P F16_Frame cover model R Forks/Handlebar Rear Shocks/Swinging Arm/Wheel
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Forks
engine Carbs/Oil Pump/Coolant Clutch/Gearbox/Drive Hub Lights/Wiring Harness Frame
Forks/Handlebar
G02_Front damper model L_M_N G03_Front damper model L_M_N G04_Front damper model P_R G05_Steering stem G06_Headlamp housing model L_M_N_P G07_Headlamp housing model R G08_Front fender G09_Front wheel G10_Handlebar G11_Right handle switch G12_Left handle switch G13_Front_brake_caliper G14_Front master cylinder model L_M_N G15_Front master cylinder model P_R Rear Shocks/Swinging Arm/Wheel
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RearShocks
engine Carbs/Oil Pump/Coolant Clutch/Gearbox/Drive Hub Lights/Wiring Harness Frame Forks/Handlebar
Rear Shocks/Swinging Arm/Wheel

H02_Rear swinging arm (E1) H03_Rear swinging arm (not E1) H04_Rear swinging arm (not E1) H05_Rear fender - Label H06_Rear fender - Label H07_Rear wheel H08_Rear caliper model L_M_N H09_Rear caliper model P_R H10_Rear master cylinder H11_Cowling(optional) H12_Optional
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VX800 Workshop Manual
VX800 Workshop Manual

Note these are Adobe PDF files and are quite large As a guideline downloading a 1Mb file will take approx for a 56k connection - 8 minutes for a 64k ISDN connection - 5 minutes for a 500k cable/adsl/dsl connection - 20 seconds
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13.
General Information (990k) - here Periodic Maintenance and Tune Up Procedures (2,35Mb) - here Engine (7.7Mb) - here Shaft Drive (1.93Mb) - here Cooling System (1.01Mb) - here Fuel and Lubrication System (1.63Mb) - here Electrical System (1.63Mb) - here Chassis (4.17Mb) - here Servicing Information (2.50Mb) - here Emission Control Information (223Kb) - here VX800-M (1991 Model) (903Kb) - here VX800-N (1992 Model) (1.04Mb) - here VX800-P (1993 Model) (711kb) - here
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FOREWORD
The SUZUKI generation a liquid ignition Combined the VX800 outstanding VX800 motorcycle. cooling system system, and has been developed as a new It is packed including a fully drive with highly a V-2 engine, efficient transistorized mechanism. and advanced design concepts combustion
a new highly
GENERAL INFORMATION PERIODIC MAINTENANCE TUNE-UP PROCEDURES AND
system (TSCC),
a shaft excellent
with precise control provides riding comfort.
and easy handling performance
This service manual for experienced Apprentice spect, adjust, cycles. mechanics, up-to-date repair
has been produced whose job and and service SUZUKI mechanics
primarily is to inmotor-
ENGINE
mechanics
do- ti- yourself
will also find this manual an extremely information at the time of publication.
SHAFT DRIVE
useful repair guide. This manual contains the most The rights are reserved to update or make corrections to this manual at any time.
COOLING SYSTEM FUEL AND LUBRICATION SYSTEM
IMPORTANT
All street-legal SUZUKI of motorcycles with engine to for displacement Environmental tions. 5Occ or greater are subject Pro tee tion Agent y emission regulaset specific standards This manual to properly with levels as well as particular includes inspect all EPA that the Servicing before These regulations requirements. information VX800 It Emission be
1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
exhaust emission output servicing specific and
CHASSIS
required
service on
in accordance Control, thoroughly
regulations. chapter and
is strongly
recommended Periodic reviewed
SERVICING INFORMA T/ON
Carburetion
any type of service work is performed. Further program SION information and concerning the EPA emission emission control EMIS-
EMISSION CONTROL INFORMA T/ON

VX800M ( l-MODEL) 9
regulations
U.S. SUZUKI s PROGRAM
can be found in the U.S. SUZUKI CONTROL
MANUAL/SER-
VICE BULLETIN.
VX800N SUZUKI MOTOR CORPORATION

Mo tort ycle Technical Service Department
( 92~MODEL)
VX8OOP
( 93-MODEL)
0 COPYRIGHTSUZUKI
MOTOR CORPORATION
1990
VIEW OF SUZUKI VX8OOL
LEFT
SIDE
RIGHT
SIDE
CONTENTS
SERIAL NUMBER LOCA T/ON . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..I............................ FUEL, OIL AND
COOL
l_ 1
A NT RECOMMENDA TION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I- 1
BREAK-IN PROCEDURES CYLINDER /DENT/FICA T/ON SPECIAL MATERIALS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . l_ 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I_ 3
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . l_ 4 ..................l7
PRECAUTIONS AND GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS SPECIFICA TIONS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . l_ g
COUNTRY OR AREA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-11
l-l
GENERAL
INFORMATION
SERIAL NUMBER LOCATION

The frame 0 serial number or V.I.N. (Vehicle Identification Number) These is stamped on the steering head pipe. The engine @ is located on the rear side of the crankcase. are required especially for registering the
serial number
numbers
machine and ordering spare parts. -
FUEL, OIL AND COOLANT RECOMMENDATION

FUEL (For U.S.A. model)
1. Use only the F n L. Suzuki unleaded method recommends gasoline of at least 87 pump octane by or 91 that octane or higher rated by the un-
Research method. customers use alcohol-free, (Methyl leaded gasoline whenever possible. 3. Use of blended gasoline containing Butyl Ether) is permitted. 4. Use of blended gasoline/alcohol alcohol fuel may contain 5. If the performance using blended alcohol-free 6. Failure fuel is permitted, provided Gasoline/ that the fuel contains not more than 10% ethanol. up to 5% methanol cosolvents and corrosion inhibitors of the vehicle gasoline/alcohol these guideline MTBE Tertiary
if appropriate while to
are present in it. is unsatisfactory switch
fuel, you should
unleaded gasoline. could possibly void appliwith your fuel supplier to coverage. Check
to follow
cable warranty
make sure that the fuel you intend to use meets the requirements listed above.
FUEL (For Canadian model)

Use only unleaded v method method. gasoline of at least 87 pump octane by the or 91 octane or higher rated by the Research
FUEL (For the other models)

Gasoline used should be graded 85 - 95 octane by the Research method or higher. An unleaded gasoline is recommended.
GENERAL INFORMATION
1-2
ENGINE OIL (For U.S.A. model)

Suzuki MOTOR (American viscosity lowing recommends Petroleum rating chart. is SAE the use of SUZUKI Institute) 1 OW/40. select PERFORMANCE system. 1 OW/40 4 The motor OIL or an oil which is rated SE or SF under the API classification If an SAE according
r
r
MULTIGRADE TEMP. <
-30 -22 -20-10 -4 14 0 32 10 50 20 68 30 66 40 104
oil is not available,
an alternate
to the fol-
ENGINE OIL (For the other models)

Make sure that the engine sification 1 OW/40. an alternate If an SAE 1 OW/40 according oil you use comes its viscosity chart. motor under rating API clasis SAE select of SE or SF and that
oil is not available,
to the following
GEAR OIL (FINAL DRIVE GEAR BOX)

Use SAE motorcycle 90 hypoid gear oil which is rated GL-5 under API classification system. If you operate the where ambient temperature is below 0C (32 F), use SAE 80 hypoid gear oil.
BRAKE FLUID
Specification WARNING: * Since the brake system of this motorcycle do not use or mix different * * is filled with a glycol-based brake fluid by the manufacturer, fluid for refilling types of fluid such as silicone-based and petroleum-based and classification: DOT4
the system, otherwise serious damage will result. Do not use any brake fluid taken from old or used or unsealed containers. Never reuse brake fluid left over from a previous servicing, which has been stored for a long period.
FRONT FORK OIL

Use fork oil #lo.
COOLANT
Use an anti-freeze/coolant compatible with an aluminum radiator, mixed with distrilled water only.
WATER FOR MIXING

Use distrilled water only. Water other than distrilled water can corrode and clog the aluminum radiator.
ANTI-FREEZE/COOLANT
The coolant point. Suzuki available, recommends the use of SUZUKI which GOLDEN with CRUISER an aluminum 1200NA anti-freeze/coolant. If this is not perform as a corrosion and rust inhabit as well as anti-freeze. temperature in your Therefore, the coolant should be used at all times even though the atomospheric area does not go down to freezing
use an equivalent
is compatible
radiator.
LIQUID AMOUNT OF WATER/COOLANT

Solution capacity (total): 1700 ml (I .8/l .5 US/Imp. qt)
For coolant mixture CAUTION: Mixing
information,
refer to cooling system section, page 5-2.
of anti-freeze/coolant mixing
should be limited
to 60%. Mixing temperature
beyond
it would
reduce its efficiency.
If -
the anti-freeze/coolant
ratio is below 50%, rust inhabiting
performance
is greatly reduced. Be sure point.
to mix it above 50% even though the atmospheric
does not go down to the freezing
BREAK-IN PROCEDURES
During manufacture high standard engine to maximum only the best possible materials are used and all machined parts are finished to a very before subjecting the stresses. The future performance and reliability of the engine depends on the care and _ but it is still necessary to allow the moving parts to BREAK-IN
restraint exercise during its early life. The general rules are as follows.
l
Keep to these break-in engine speed limits: (500 miles) : Below 4000 r/min
Initial 800 km Over 1600 km

l
Up to 1600 km (1000 miles) : Below 6000 r/min (1000 miles) : Below 8500 r/min reading of 1600 km (1000 miles) you can subject the motorcycle to full
Upon throttle
reaching an odometer operation.
However, do not exceed 8500 r/min at any time.
CYLINDER IDENTIFICATION
The two cylinders of this engine are identified as No. 1, and No. 2 cylinder, as counted from rear to front (as viewed by the rider on the seat).
GENERAL
INFORMATION
1-4
SPECIAL MATERIALS
The materials listed below are needed for maintenance work on the VX800, and should be kept on hand emery cloth and the for ready use. They supplement such standard materials as cleaning fluids, lubricants,
like. How to use them and where to use them are described in the text of this manual.
r
For U.S.A. model
MATERIAL For other models
T
.
Brakes
PART 2
SUZUKI BRAKE DOT3 & DOT4 99000-23110
FLUID
SUZUKI BRAKE DOT3 & DOT4 99000-23110
FLUID
Coolant
SUZUKI GOLDEN 1200NA 99000-99032-10x
CRUISE
SUZUKI GOLDEN 1200NA 99000-99032-10x
CRUISER
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SUZUKI SUPER 39000-25030 GREASE A SUZUKI SUPER 99000-25010 GREASE A
Brake pedal pivot Footrest pivot Gearshift lever pivot Side-stand pivot and spring hook Center stand pivot and spring hook O-ring of oil jet Secondary bevel gear case oil seal and O-ring Final driven gear oil seal Final driven bevel gear coupling Starter motor armature bearing and dust seal Wheel bearing Speedometer gear box dust seal Steering stem bearing and dust seal Brake pedal boss Final driven gear spline and O-ring Swingarm spacer, bearing and dust seal
2 3 4 4 4 7 8 8 8. 8 8 8
1-5 GENERAL
INFORMATION
MATERlAL PART
For U.S.A. model For other models
PAGE
g g
l
Brakeca iperax e
B-5
SUZUKI 99000-25 SILICONE 100 GREASE SUZUKI SILICONE 99000-25100 GREASE
l l l l l l l l
Valve stem Conrod big end bearing Countershaft and driveshaft Piston pin Crankshaft journal bearing Camshaft journal and cam face Rocker arm and shaft Starter motor housing end bushing
3-30 3-37 3-43 3-56 3-45 3-58 3-60 7-12
SUZUKI MOLY 99000-25140
PASTE
SUZUKI MOLY 99000-25140
PASTE
Oil pressure
switch
3-17
&
$&+y
;~~~~~t
gear case SUZUKI BOND 99104-31140 NO. 1207B SUZUKI BOND 99000-311 IO NO. 1215
Cylinder
head cover
3-60
@$zy
SUZUKI BOND 99104-31160
NO. 1216
SUZUKI BOND 99000-31160
NO. 1216
l l l
Secondary driven bevel gear housing bolt Gearshift and stopper Cam sprocket bolt Final driven gear bearing retainer screw Final driven joint stopper bolt
3-49 3-50 3-58 4-14 8-30
THREAD LOCK 99000-32030
SUPER
1303
SUPER
1303
GENERAL
INFORMATION
1-6
MATERIAL PART For U.S.A. model For other models

l
PAGE mounting guide
Generator screw Generator screw
stator
3-41 3-41 4-19 7-12 8-12
lead wire
l l l
Final gear case securing bolt Starter motor housing screw Front fork damper rod bolt
1342
1342
l l l l
l l l
Oil pipe retainer bolt Gearshift cam stopper bolt Gearshift cam driven gear bolt Gearshift cam guide nut and paw1 lifter screw Oil pump securing bolt Brake pedal boss bolt Front footrest bolt
3-45 3-49 3-50 3-50 3-51 8-25 8-39
THREAD LOCK 1333B 99000-32020
SUPER
THREAD 322 1 99000-32
LOCK 110
SUPER
Crankcase
bearing
retainer
3-18
screw and bolt
SUPER
1303
SUPER
1324
Brake
disc mounting
bolt
8-3 8-30
THREAD 99000-32
LOCK 130
SUPER
1360
THREAD 99000-32
LOCK 130
SUPER
1360
l-7
GENERAL
INFORMATION
THREAD LOCK SUPER 1303 99000-32030
THREAD LOCK SUPER 1305 99000-32 100
PRECAUTIONS AND GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS

Observe the following 0 0 items without fail when servicing, disassembling and reassembling motorcycles.
Do not run engine indoors with little or no ventilation. Be sure to replace packings, gaskets, circlips, O-rings and cotter pins with new ones.
CAUTION: * Never reuse a circlip. * When installing *

0
After
a circlip
has been removed from a shaft, it should be discarded and a new
circlip must be installed. a new circlip, care must be taken not to expand the end gap larger than required to slip seated in its groove and securely fitted. larger diameter and ending with smaller torque. the circlip over the shaft. After installing a circlip, always insure that it is completely Tighten diameter, q
0
cylinder
head and case bolts and nuts, beginning with
from inside to out-side diagonally,
to the specified tightening
Use special tools where specified. Use genuine parts and recommended oils. pay attention to the safety of each other.
cl
When 2 or more persons work together,
After the reassembly, check parts for tightness and operation.
GENERAL INFORMATION
l-8
Treat
gasoline,
which
is extremely
flammable
and
highly
explosive,
with
greatest
care. Never
use
gasoline as cleaning Warning, WARNING CAUTION NOTE Caution ....... .......
solvent. in this manual of the rider point occasionally, or bystanders injury. service procedures or precautions that must be instrucdescribing the following contents. this
and Note are included The personal
safety could
may be involved.
Disregarding
information followed ........... This
result in personal out special
These instructions provides
to avoid damaging special
the machine. to make maintenance easier or important
information
tions clearer.
REPLACEMENT PARTS
When you replace parts, any parts, use only genuine and built SUZUKI SUZUKI reparts placement for SUZUKI CAUTION: Use of replacement to genuine and damage. SUZUKI parts which are not equivalent in quality problems parts can lead to performance or their equivalent. Genuine
are high quality
parts which
are designed
specifically
vehicles.
ASBESTOS INFORMATION Note the following when handling

WARNING asbestos. Operate Preferably LABEL, orany
a supply
part
with
this
part in the partslist which
contains place. if If high
if possible out of doors in a well ventilated use hand tools or low speed tools always an appropriate dust extractor or drilling. closed facility.
equipped,
necessary, with If possible, Dampen Any apply,
speed tools are used, they should dampen before cutting dust and place asbestos
be so equipped. receptacle
Q
d
WARNING CONTAINS ASBESTOS Breath,ng asbestos
dust IS dangerous to health
it in a properly to which
and dispose of it safely. domestic but product the above does not during use should which is likely to release fibres
be replaced
by new one when worn.
@I
L
Cylinder
head breather
cover gasket
NOTE:
1.
Refer to the VX800 Water pump gasket I , details.
parts catalogue for
l-9
GENERAL
INFORMATION
SPECIFICATIONS
DIMENSIONS AND DRY MASS
Overall length .............................. 2280 mm (89.8 in) . . . E15, 16, 17, 22, 25, 39 2355 mm (92.7 in) . . . El8 2255 mm (88.8 in) . . . Others Overall width .............................. Overall height .............................. 805 mm (31.7 in) 1115 mm (43.9 in) . . . E03, 28,33 1085 mm (42.7 in) . . . Others Wheel base ................................. Ground clearance Seat height ........................... 1565 mm (61.6 in) . . . E03,33 1555 mm (61.2 in) . . . Others 145 mm ( 5.7 in) 800 mm (31.5 in) . . . EOI, 03, 28,33 795 mm (31.3 in) . . . Others Dry mass ................................. 214 kg 213 kg (472 Ibs). . . E33 (470 Ibs) . . . Others water-cooled, OHC, TSCC, 45 V-twin in) ................................ -
ENGINE
Type ..................................... Valve clearance ............................. Number of cylinders. Stroke ........................ Bore ..................................... ................................... ......................... .......................... .......................... ........................... ratio Front. Rear Air cleaner Lubrication Starter system Piston displacement Compression Carburetor, Four-stroke, 2 83.0 mm (3.268 74.4 mm (2.929 805 cm3 (49.12 10.0 : 1 MI KUN I BDS36SS, MI KUN I BS36SS, single single in) in) cu. in) 0.08 - 0.13 mm (0.003 - 0.005
................................ ............................. system ..........................
Polyester fiber element Electric starter motor Wet sump
TRANSMISSION
Clutch ................................... .............................. ........................... ratio ...................... ........................... Wet multi-plate 1 -down, 4-up 1.690 (71/42) 2.285 (32/14) 1.631 (31/19) 1.227 (27/22) 1 .OOO (25/25) 0.851 (23/27) 30/30) 30/31) . . . E03,33 . . . Others 1.133 (17/15x type Transmission 5-speed constant mesh
Gearshift pattern Primary reduction Gear ratios, Low
2nd ............................ 3rd ............................ 4th Top Secondary ............................ ........................... ratio ....................
reduction ratio
1.096 (17/15x ........................ 3.090 (34/l 1) Drive system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shaft drive Final reduction
GENERAL
INFORMATION
l-10
CHASSIS
Front suspension . . . . , . . . . . . .. . . . . Rear suspension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Telescopic, coil spring, oil damped . . . . . . . . . . . . . Swingarm, coil spring, gas/oil damped, spring preload 5-way adjustable; rebound damping force 4-way adjustable . . . EOl, 03, 28,33; compression rebound Front suspension Rear wheel travel. Caster.. Trail stroke ...................... ........................... damping force 4-way adjustable and damping force 4-way adjustable . . . Others
150 mm (5.9 in) 118 mm (4.6 in) . . . EOl, 03, 28, 33 119 mm (4.7 in) . . . Others 59 143 mm (5.63 in) . . . EOl, 03, 28, 33 142 mm (5.59 in) . . . Others 35 (right Disc Disc 110/80-18 150/70B17 58H, tubeless 69H, tubeless & left)
..................................
..................................... angle .............................. radius. .............................
Steering Turning Front
3.2 m ( 10.5 ft)
brake ................................ Rear brake. ................................ Front tire size .............................. Rear tire size. ..............................
ELECTRICAL
Ignition Ignition type timing . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fully transistorized . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 B.T.D.C. below 1650 r/min 30 B.T.D.C. above 3500 r/min . . . . . . .. . . . . .. . T.D.C. 30 below 1625 below r/min and . . . El8 and . . . Others X24EPR-U9 B.T.D.C. above 3500 r/min 1625 r/min above 3750 r/min or NIPPON and . . . E03, 33
5 B.T.D.C. 32 B.T.D.C. Sparkplug Battery Headlight Position Turn Tail/Brake ................................ ................................... ................................. light light .............................. ............................ ............................ .......................... .......................... .......................... light indicator light ...................... light ..................... light .................... ................
NGK DPR8EA-9 25/10/10/10A 12V 60/55W 12V4W... 12v 21w 12V 5/21W 12v 5w 12v 3.4w 12v 1.7w
DENS0
12V 57.6 kC (16Ah)/lOHR
Fuse .....................................
except
E03,28,33
signal light
License plate light Speedometer Tachometer Neutral Turn light light
indicator
12v 3.4w 12v 1.7w 12v 3.4w 12v 3.4w
High beam indicator signal light Oil pressure indicator Coolant temperature
check light
. . . . . . , . . . . . . . . 12V 3W
1-11
GENERAL
INFORMATION
CAPACITIES
Fuel tank, including reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18.0 L (4.8j4.0 19.0 L (5.0/4.2 Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Engine oil, oil change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . with filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . overhau I . . . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Final gear oil Coolant . . . . . . . . ,. .. . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . reserve) . . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (including 4.0 L (1.1/0.9 2400 ml (2.5D.l 2800 ml (3.0/2.5 3300 ml (3.5/2.9 US/Imp. US/Imp. US/Imp. US/Imp. US/Imp. US/Imp. gal) . . . E33 gal) . . . Others gal) qt) qt) qt) US/Imp. oz) -
200 - 220 ml (6.8/7.0 388 ml (13.1/13.7 392 ml (13.2/13.8
- 7.4/7.7
1700 ml (1.8/l .5 US/Imp. qt)

US/Imp. US/Imp. oz) . . . E01,03,28,33 oz) . . . Others notice.
Front fork oil (each leg) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
These specifications
are subject to change without
COUNTRY OR AREA
The series of symbols on the left stand for the countries and areas on the right. SYMBOL E-01 E -02 E -03 E-04 E-15 E-16 E-17 E-18 E-21 E-22 E-24 E-25 E-28 E-33 E-34 E-39 E-53 COUNTRY General market (Export England U.S.A. France Finland Norway Sweden Switzerland Belgium West Germany Australia Netherlands Canada California Italy Austria Spain (U.S.A.) (except California) or AR EA
standard model)
--CONTENTS_
~~~_
~~~
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
SCHEDULE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2- 1 CHART . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2- 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2_ 2 ..................23
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE LUBRICATION POINTS
MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP PROCEDURES
BATTERY.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2- 3 AIR CLEANERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2_ 4 VALVE CLEARANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2- 5 SPARK PLUGS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2- 7 ENGINE OIL AND OIL FILTER FUEL LINES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2_ B
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2- 9
CARBURETORS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2_ g COOLING SYSTEM CLUTCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2- 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-10
FINAL GEAR OIL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-11 BRAKES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2_ 72 TIRES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2- 14 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-15
STEERING
FRONT FORKS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2- 15 REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2_ 15 CHASSIS BOLTS AND NUTS . . ..a. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2_15
2-l PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
AND TUNE-UP PROCEDURES
IMPORTANT: accordance NOTE: More frequent servicing may be performed with exceed emission The periodic maintenance Following EPA regulations. and it will
SCHEDULE
intervals and service requirements will ensure that have been established the motorcycle of the motorcycle. however, will in not these instructions
standards
also ensure the reliability on motorcycles
and performance
that are used under severe conditions
it is not necessary for ensuring emission level compliance. The chart below lists the recommended operating intervals for all the required and economy. periodic Mileages service work are expressed necessary to
keep the motorcycle kilometer,
at peak performance convenience.
in terms of
miles and time for your
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE CHART

INTERVALS: THIS INTERVAL SHOULD BE km
1000 600 2 6000 4000 12 12000 7500 24 18000 11000 36 24000 15000 48
JUDGED BY ODOMETER READING OR MONTHS WHICHEVER COMES FIRST.
miles months
Battery
(Specific
gravity
of electrolyte)
Air cleaner elements
Clean every 6000 km (4000 miles) and replace every 12000 km (7500 miles)
Radiator
hoses
Brake fluid Brakes Tires Steering Front forks
Replace every two vears I I I I I I I I I I I I I I

T
1
I I T
1
T
I
I I
T
I T
Rear shock absorbers Chassis bolts and nuts NOTE: R = Replace, T = Tighten,
I = Inspect and adjust, clean, lubricate or replace as necessary
AND TUNE-UP PROCEDURES 2-2
LUBRICATION POINTS
Proper cycle. lubrication is important points for smooth operation below. and long life of each working part of the motorMajor lubrication are indicated
Clutch
lever holder
and clutch
cable
I
I
El Side-stant pivot and spring hook
ElCenter stand pivot and spring hook
q : Oil
ra
Footrest
phot
NOTE: * Before lubricating * each part, clean off any rusty spots and wipe off any grease, oil, dart or grime. Lubricate exposed parts which are subject to rust, with oil or grease.
2-3 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
MAINTENANCE
the Periodic Maintenance

requirements.
This section describes the servicing procedures for each item of
BATTERY
Inspect every 6000 km (4000 miles or 12 months). Remove the seat. Remove the battery battery terminals. Remove the battery from the battery holder. Check the electrolyte water, above the MIN. For checking level and specific gravity. Add distilled level line. to deterMAX.(UPPER) MIN.(LOWER)
I -
and then @
lead wires from the
as necessary, to keep the surface of the electrolyte level line but not above the MAX. specific gravity, use a hydrometer
mine the charged condition. 09900-28403 : Hydrometer (68 F)
Standard specific gravity : 1.28 at 20C An S.G. battery reading of 1.22 needs recharging. (at 20C)
or under means that the from the ma-
Remove the battery
chine and charge it with a battery charger. CAUTION: Never charge a battery while still in the machine as damage
Hydrometer
may result to the battery or regulator/rectifier.

l l
Charge at a maximum To install the battery,
of 1.6 amps. reverse the procedure described above.
CAUTION: When installing 0

l
the battery lead wires, fix the @ lead first and
lead last. Make sure that the breather hose is tightly secured and
undamaged, and is routed as shown in the figure.
AIR CLEANERS
Clean every 6000 km (4000 replace every 12000 miles) and miles).
km (7500
Remove the seat, frame covers and fuel tank. Remove the right and left side frame head covers (Photo A), then remove the right and left air cleaner mounting screws (Photo 9). Disconnect the air cleaner drain hose from the front side air cleaner case (Photo C). Loosen the two clamp screws and disconnect the joint hose from the carburetor, assembly (Photo D). Remove the four screws and pull out the front side air cleaner element (Photo E). then rise up the front side air cleaner
Loosen the four screws and pull out the rear side air cleaner element (Photo F). Carefully use an air hose to blow the dust from the air cleaner elements (Photo G). CAUTION: Always forced apply an air pressure on the outside of the air cleaner If air pressure is applied on the inside, dirt will be thus restricting into the pores of the cleaner element elements.
air flow through the cleaner element.

l
Reinstall the cleaned elements or new ones in reverse order of removal,
CAUTION: If driving under dusty conditions, more frequently. to use the engine elements. ponents ! without clean the air cleaner elements or to use ruptured The surest way to accelerate engine wear is the elements
Make sure that the air cleaners are in good condition
at all times. Life of the engine depends largely on these com-
2-5 PERIODIC
MAINTENANCE
AND TUNE-UP
PROCEDURES
VALVE CLEARANCE
inspect every 6000 km (4000 miles or 12 months). and adjusted and them for servicing. when:
Valve clearance (2) the camshaft Excessive valve
also must be checked is serviced, are disturbed
(1) the valve mechanism
by removing
valve clearance results
results in valve
in valve noise and insufficient damage and reduced power.
clearance
Check and adjust the clearance
to the specification.
Valve clearance (when cold) : IN. & EX. 0.08 - 0.13 mm (0.003 NOTE: * The clearance specification ed when the piston is for COLD state. (TDCI of the * Both intake and exhaust valves must be checked and adjustis at Top Dead Center compression stroke.
l l
- 0.005
in)
Remove the seat and the fuel tank. Remove the following @ Front @Valve @Timing @Spark inspection inspection plugs parts. carburetor and outlet tube caps plug side air cleaner, cover plug
@ Generator
Rotate the generator at TDC the RT
rotor to set the No. 1 engine piston s stroke. (Rotate the rotor until
of the compression
line on the rotor is aligned with the center of hole
on the generator cover.)
To
inspect
the
No.
1 engine s
valve clearance,
insert the
thickness gauge to the clearance between the valve stem end and the adjusting screw on the rocker arms. 09900-20806
l
: Thickness gauge bring it into the
If the clearance is out of the specification, specified range by using the special tool.
09917-10410 CAUTION:
: Valve adjust driver
Both right and left valve clearances should be as closely set as possible.
l
Rotate
the generator
rotor
450
degrees (1-X
turns)
and
align the FT
line on the rotor with the center of hole on
the generator cover. Rotation angle : 450 degrees (l-1/4 : 480 degrees (1 -l/3 turns) . . . for E03,33 models turns) . . . for the other models
l
Inspect
the
No.
2 engine s
valve
clearance
as the same
manner above.
NOTE: Use the thickness gauge from the arrow marks as shown in the illustration.
FRONT
No
Englnr
SPARK PLUGS
Inspect every 6000 km (4000 miles or 12 months) and replace every 12000
l
km (7500
miles or 24 months).
Remove the spark plugs with spark plug wrench. - 0.035 in).
The plug gap should be 0.8 - 0.9 mm (0.031 The gap is correctly
adjusted by using the thickness gauge. using a tool worn or -
When carbon is deposited on the spark plug, remove the carbon with a spark plug cleaning machine or by carefully with burnt, a pointed end. If the electrodes are extremely
replace the plug. Also replace the plug if it has a broken
insulator, damaged thread, etc. 09900-20804 09930-13210 09930-14530 09914-24510 NGK : Thickness gauge : Socket wrench : Universal joint : T-handle or NIPPON DENS0 X24EPR-U9 as listed in
DPR8EA-9
the table below should be used as the standard plug. However the heat range of the plug should requirements to be replaced, When color. remove it is recommended the plugs, be indicated inspect be selected to meet the that ones having a heat Proper heat in of speed, actual road, fuel, etc. If the plugs need plug in the table be selected. the insulators.
range closest to the standard range would
if all insulators were light brown
If they are blackened by carbon, they should be replaced
with hotter type ones. If they are baked white, they should be replaced with colder type ones. Colder type plugs are designed for high heat range and sufficiently cooled to prevent overheating. Recommended spark plug NGK Hotter type Standard Colder plug CAUTION: Confirm the thread size and reach when replacing the plug. If on the screw the reach is too short, carbon will be deposited DPR7EA-9 DPR8EA-9 DPRSEA-9 NIPPON DENS0
_ -= b(
7 (6.031
,L;asp;o,9 mm
- 0.035
in)
X22EPR-U9 X24EPRU9 X27EPRU9
portion of the plug hole and engine damage may result. NOTE: R type spark plug has a resistor located at the center electrode to prevent radio noise.
ENGINE OIL AND OIL FILTER

Replace at initial every 12000 Oil should 1000 km (600 miles or 2 months) and miles or 24 months). while the engine should is hot. Oil filter rewith
km (7500
be changed
placement
l l
at the above intervals
be done together
engine oil change. Place the motorcycle the drain plug 0

l
on the center stand. cap 0. by using the oil filter wrench
Place an oil pan below the engine and drain oil by removing and filler filter @ Remove the oil @I. : Oil filter wrench oil lightly to the gasket of the you new filter
(Special tool 0991540611 Apply Install
engine
before installation. the new filter turning it by hand until wrench. feel that the filter gasket contacts the mounting surface. Then tighten
it 2 turns using the oil filter NOTE: To properly tighten
the filter,
use the special
tool.
Never
tighten the filter by hand. Fit the drain plug 0 oil filler. qt) of oil. securely, and add fresh oil through 2.8 L (3.0/2.5 the
The engine will Use an API viscosity. cap 2).
hold about classification
US/Imp.
of SE or SF oil with
SAE lOW/40 Refit the filler idling Turn speed.
Start up the engine and allow off the engine
it to run for several minutes one minute, window 0. line.
at
and wait about the inspection
then check If the level
the oil level through is below the lower NECESSARY Oil change: Filter change: Engine overhaul: CAUTION: Use SUZUKI
line, add oil to the upper OF ENGINE OIL qt) qt) qt)
AMOUNT
2.4 L (2.5/2.1 2.8 L (3.0/2.5 3.3 L (3.5/2.9
US/Imp. US/Imp. US/Imp.
MOTORCYCLE
GENUINE
OIL
FILTER
only, parts
since the other maker genuine filters and after-market s may differ in thread specifications filtering performance and durability,
(thread diameter and pitch), which could cause engine genuine oil filter is also
After contacting tighten 2 turns. the gasket,
damage or oil leaks. Suzuki automobile not usable for the motorcycles.
FUEL LINES
Inspect at inital 1000 km (600 miles or 2 months) and every 6000 km (4000 replace every 4 years. Inspect the fuel lines for damage and fuel leakage. If any miles or 12 months), then
defects are found, the fuel line must be replaced. Refer to page 9-l 2. VAPOR HOSE . . . . . . . . . California model only
Inspect at inital 1000 km (600 miles or 2 months) and every 6000 km (4000 miles or 12 months), replace every 4 years. then
CARBURETORS
ENGINE IDLING SPEED 1000 km (600 miles or 2 months) and
Inspect at initial
every 6000 km (4000 miles or 12 months).
NOTE: The engine idling speed should be adjusted when the engine is hot.
l l
Connect a tachometer. Start up the engine and set its speed at idle speed 1000 and 1200 r/min by turning throttle stop screw 0. . . . . . . for E-01 and others . . . . . . . . for E-03, 33 . . . . . . for E-18
Engine idle speed : 1100 ? 100 r/min 1200 * 50 r/min 1200 + $O r/min THROTTLE There should the throttle following
l
CABLE cable.
PLAY 1.0 mm (0.02 the throttle 0.04 in) play @ on the Adjust cable play with
be 0.5 -
procedures. @ and turn the adjuster @ in or out
Loosen the lock nut
until the specified play is obtained.

l
Tighten the lock nut @while cable play @ : 0.5 -
holding the adjuster. 1 .O mm (0.02 - 0.04 in)
Throttle
WARNING: After throttle the adjustment is completed, check that handlebar movement does not raise the engine idle speed and that the and automatically.
grip returns smoothly
PERIODIC
MAINTENANCE
AND TUNE-UP
PROCEDURES
2-10
COOLING SYSTEM
Inspect at initial every 12000 1000 km (600 miles or 2 months) and miles or 24 months).
km (7500
Change coolant every 2 years. Replace radiator hoses every 4 years.

l l
Remove the right frame head cover. Remove the radiator cap @ and drain plug 0.
WARNING: Do not open the radiator cap when the engine is hot, as you may be injured by escaping hot liquid or vapor. Coolant contact water. may be harmful with ! the skin, if swallowed flush thoroughly vomitting or if it comes in with plenty of contact with skin or eyes. If coolant gets into the eyes or in If swallowed, induce and call physician
immediately
Flush the radiator with fresh water if necessary. Tighten Pour the the drain specified plug @ securely and remove radiator the air and bleeder plug 8. coolant up to the inlet tighten the air bleeder plug 0. Tightening torque (1.0 Air bleeder plug 1.2 kg-m, 7.0 - 8.5 lb-ft)
Coolant drain plug : 10 - 12 N-m : IO - 12 N.m (1.0 - 1.2 kg-m, 7.0 - 8.5 lb-ft) NOTE: For coolant information,
l l
refer to page 5-2. securely. down the engine, add the
Close the radiator cap 0 After warning
up and cooling
specified coolant up to the radiator inlet. CAUTION: Repeat above procedure several times and make sure that the radiator is filled with coolant up to the inlet hole. Coolant capacity : 1700 ml (1.8/1.5 US/Imp. qt)
CLUTCH
Inspect at initial 1000 km (600 miles or 2 months) and

l
Loosen the lock nut
@ and turn in the adjuster
@all
the
way into the clutch lever holder.
2-11
PERIODIC
MAINTENANCE
AND TUNE-UP
PROCEDURES
Remove the secondary bevel gear case cover. Loosen the lock nut @ and, if required, turn the adjuster @ in place to introduces some play in the clutch lever.
Loosen the lock nut @ and back the adjusting screw @ out two or three rotations. Slowly l/4 turn the adjusting l/2 rotation screw in until From it begins to meet back it out high resistance to turning. this position,
and secure the lock nut 0.
Reset the adjuster
@ to provide a clutch
lever play
of
4 mm (0.16 in), and tighten the lock nut @. Clutch cable play @ : 4 mm (0.16 in)
l
Tighten the lock nut @ to secure the adjuster 0.
FINAL GEAR OIL

Replace at initial 1000 km (600 miles or 2 months) and km (7500 miles or 24 months). on the center stand. and drain plug 0. the filler hole until the oil level
inspect every 12000 Place the motorcycle removing filler cap 0 hypoid
Place an oil pan below the final gear case and drain oil by Refit the drain plug @ and pour the specified oil (SAE #90 gear oil) through reaches the filler hole. Refit the filler cap 0. NECESSARY AMOUNT OF FINAL GEAR OIL : US/Imp. oz)
200 - 220 ml (6.8/7.0
- 7.4/7.7
PERIOOIC
MAINTENANCE
AND TUNE-UP
PROCEDURES
2-12
BRAKES
Inspect system at initial 1000 km (600 miles or 2 months) miles or 12 months).
and every 6000 km (4000
BRAKE Keep
FLUID the
LEVEL upright and place the handlebars
motorcycle
straight. Remove the seat. Check the brake fluid level by observing the upper (Only for rear brake) and lower (Both front and rear brakes) limit lines on the brake fluid reservoirs. When the level is below the lower limit brake fluid that meets the following Specification 99000-23110 WARNING: The brake system of this motorcycle based brake fluid. such as silicone-based reuse brake fluid long periods. WARNING: Brake fluid, immediately if it leaks, will interfere with safe running and discolor painted surfaces. Check the brake hoses is filled with a glycolDo not use or mix different and petroleum-based. types of fluid Never and Classification : SUZUKI BRAKE : DOT4 FLUID DOT3 & DOT4 line, replenish with specification.
Do not use any
brake fluid taken from old, used or unsealed containers.
left over from the last servicing or stored for
and hose joints for cracks and oil leakage before riding. BRAKE grooved PADS of brake pad wear can be checked by observing the line @ marked on the pad. When the wear limit
The extent
exceeds the grooved limit line, replace the pads with new ones. (Refer to pages 8-5 and 8-20.) CAUTION: Replace the brake pad as a set, otherwise will be adversely affected. BRAKE
l
braking performance
PEDAL
HEIGHT rotate the push rod @ to locate 1.6 in) below the top face 40 mm (1.2 -
Loosen the lock nut @and brake pedal 30 of the footrest.
Retighten
the lock nut @ to secure the push rod @ in the
proper position. Brake pedal height @ : 30 - 40 mm (1.2 1.6 in)
2-13
PERIODIC
MAINTENANCE
AND TUNE-UP
PROCEDURES
REAR Adjust
BRAKE
LIGHT
SWITCH
the rear brake light switch, so that the brake light will
come on just before a pressure is felt when the brake pedal is depressed.
AIR
BLEEDING
THE BRAKE of the
FLUID
CIRCUIT by the master is indicated by
Air trapped cylinder of the
in the fluid circuit
acts like a cushion to absorb a developed of air
large proportion brake
pressure
and thus interferes caliper. of the The brake
with the full braking performance presence level/pedal and also by lack of after
sponginess braking
force. Considering
the danger to which such trapped and rider, it is essential that, circuit the brake system to the be purged of air in
air exposes the machine remounting normal the following condition,
the brake and restoring the brake fluid manner:
Fill up the master cylinder inspection window, (for
reservoir to the upper end of the front brake) and UPPER line
(for rear brake). Replace the reservoir cap. Attach a pipe to the caliper bleeder valve, and insert the free end of the pipe into a receptacle. Squeeze and release the brake lever several times in rapid without releasing it. this will reit a quarter of a turn so
succession and squeeze the level fully Loosen the bleeder valve by turning that the brake fluid handlebar flowing The
runs into the receptacle;
move the tension of the brake lever causing it to touch the grip. Then, close the valve, pump and squeeze the lever, and open the valve. Repeat this process until the fluid into the receptacle no longer contains air bubbles. difference between bleeding the front and rear is actuated by a pedal. only
brakes is that the rear master cylinder NOTE: Replenish bleeding fluid the brake fluid
in the reservoir
as necessary
while
the brake system.
Make sure that there is always some
visible in the reservoir.
PERIOOIC MAINTENANCE
Close the bleeder valve, and disconnect front brake) and UPPER
the pipe.
Fill the (for
reservoir to the upper end of the inspection line. (for rear brake)
window
Tightening
torque (0.6 - 0.9 kg-m, 4.5 - 6.5 lb-ft)
Air bleeder valve : 6 - 9 N-m
CAUTION
: reacts chemically with
Handle brake fluid with care: the fluid paint, plastics, rubber materials etc.
TIRES
Inspect at initial 1000 km (600 miles or 2 months) and
TIRE
TREAD the
CONDITION motorcycle with excessively worn tires will and consequently invite a dangerous specifica-
Operating situation. remaining tion.
decrease riding stability depth
It is highly recommended
to replace a tire when the
of tire tread reaches the following
Tire tread depth limit : FRONT REAR
1.6 mm (0.06 in) 2.0 mm (0.08 in)
TIRE
PRESSURE pressure is too high or too low, steering will be maintain
If the tire
adversely affected and tire wear increased. Therefore, the correct tire pressure for good roadability will result. Cold inflation
COLD INFLATION TIRE PRESSURE FRONT REAR
or shorter tire life
tire pressure is as follows.

DUAL psi 33 36 kg/cm2 2.25 2.80 225 280 33 41 RIDING
SOLD RIDING kg/cm 2.25 2.50 kPa 225 250
CAUTION: The standard tire fitted for front specified (METZELER ME55A). (METZELER use a SUZUKI on this motorcycle ME33) The and 150/70 use of tires is 110/80-18 other than 58H those to B17 69H for rear
may cause instability. Genuine Tire.
It is highly recommended
STEERING
Inspect at initial 1000 km (600 miles or 2 months) and miles or 12 months).
every 6000 km (4000
Taper roller type bearings are used on the steering system for better smooth steering handling. turning prevents Steering of smooth should turning be adjusted properly for handlebars and safe running. Overtight and too
of the handlebars
loose steering will cause poor stability. so that straight the front wheel
Check that there is no the motorcycle with the wheel
play in the front fork assembly by supporting is off the ground,
ahead, grasp the lower fork tubes near the axle and If play is found, perform steering bearing adjust-
pull forward.
ment as described in page 8-18 of this manual.
FRONT FORKS
Inspect at initial every 12000 1000 km (600 miles or 2 months) and
km (7500 miles or 24 months). forks for oil leakage, scoring or scratches on of the inner tubes. Replace any defective
Inspect the front the outer surface
parts, if necessary. (Refer to page 8-10.)
REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS

Inspect at initial every 12000 1000 km (600 miles or 2 months) and miles or 24 months).
km (7500
Inspect the rear shock absorber for oil leakage and check that there is no play in the swingarm assembly.
PERIODIC
MAINTENANCE
AND TUNE-UP
PROCEDURES
2-16
CHASSIS BOLTS AND NUTS

Tighten every at initial 6000 km 1000 (4000 km (600 miles miles or 2 months) and
or 12 months). safety parts. They must be retightened when necessary to nuts and
The nuts and bolts listed below are important the specified torque with a torque wrench. bolts on the motorcycle.) Item @ Steering stem head nut @ @ @ @ @ 0 @ Front fork upper clamp bolt Front fork lower clamp bolt Front axle shaft Front axle pinch bolt Handlebar clamp bolt Handlebar holder mounting Front brake master cylinder nut mounting bolt bolt
(Refer to page 2-l 7 for the locations of the following
N-m 50 - 80 18-28 18-28 36 - 52 18-28 18-28 20 - 30 5-8 30 - 48 / 15-20 6-9 18 - 28 bolt 1 27 -43 100 -130 22 - 35 18 - 28 bolt / 20-31 30 - 36 22 - 35 bolt I ( 815-20 60 - 96 35 - 45 12 I I I I I
kg-m 5.0 - 8.0 1.8 - 2.8 1.8 - 2.8 3.6 - 5.2 1.8 - 2.8 1.8 - 2.8 2.0 - 3.0 0.5 - 0.8 3.0 - 4.8 1.5 - 2.0 0.6 - 0.9 1.8 - 2.8 2.7 - 4.3 lo13 I I
lb-ft 36.0 - 58.0 13.0 - 20.0 13.0 - 20.0 26.0 - 37.5 13.0 - 20.0 13.0 - 20.0 14.5 - 21.5 3.5 - 6.0 21.5 - 34.5 11.0 14.5 I
@I Front brake caliper mounting @$ Brake hose union bolt @ @ Air bleeder valve Front and rear disc bolt
4.5 - 6.5 13.0 - 20.0 19.5 - 31.0 72.5 - 94.0 16.0 - 25.5 13.0 20.0 22.5 I I
@I Front footrest
bracket mounting
@I Swingarm pivot nut @ Rear shock absorber upper/lower mounting nut
2.2 - 3.5 1.8 - 2.8 2.0 - 3.1 3.0 - 3.6 2.2 - 3.5 0.8 1.2
@I Rear brake pedal boss bolt @ Rear brake caliper mounting
I I
I
14.5
@I Rear brake caliper housing bolt @ Torque link nut (Front & Rear) mounting
21.5 - 26.0 16.0 25.5 I I
@J$Rear brake master cylinder @ @ @ Rear brake rod lock nut Rear axle nut
6.0 - 8.5 11 .o 14.5
1.5 - 2.0 6.0 - 9.6 3.5 - 4.5
43.5 - 69.5 25.5 - 32.5
Final bevel gear case joint nut
2-17
PERIODIC
MAINTENANCE
AND TUNE-UP
PROCEDURES
CONTENTS
COMPRESSION CHECK .................................................. .3_ 1 .3_ 2 .3_ 3 .3_ 3 .3_ 4 .3_ 5 ...... 3-20 .3_20 .3_24 .3_30 .3_31 .3_32 3-33 .3_34 .3_37 3-39 .3_41 3-4 1 .3_42 .3_42 .3_44 3-57 .3_50 ENGINE COMPONENTS REMOVABLE WITH THE ENGINE IN PLACE .................................................. ENGINE REMOVAL AND REINSTALLATION ....................... ENGINE REMOVAL .................................................. ENGINE REINSTA L LA TION ...................................... ENGINE DISASSEMBL Y .................................................. ENGINE COMPONENTS INSPECTION A ND SERVICING
CYLINDER HEAD COVER ......................................... CYLINDER HEAD ..................................................... CYLINDER .............................................................. PISTON ................................................................. PISTON RING ........................................................ PISTON PIN AND PIN BORE CONROD ....................................
..............................................................
CRANKSHAFT ........................................................ CLUTCH .................................................................. GENERATOR .......................................................... STARTER CLUTCH .................................................. OIL PUMP .............................................................. TRANSMISSION ENGINE REASSEMBLY CAMSHAFT TIMING ..................................................... .................................................. ................................................ ..........................
VALVE ROCKER ARM AND SHAFT
3-I ENGINE
COMPRESSION CHECK
The compression cylinders dealership is often should of a cylinder include is good indicator of its internal condition. service. The decision to overhaul the based on the results compression of a compression test. Periodic maintenance records kept at your
readings for each maintenance
COMPRESSION
Standard 1300 13 1600 kPa
Limit 1100 kPa
(Difference
in cylinders
200 kPa
16 kg/cm
184 - 227 psi
Low compression pressure can indicate any of the following Excessively Worn-down Piston worn piston cylinder wall rings or piston
conditions:
rings stuck in the grooves or otherwise defective cylinder head gasket
Poor seating of valves Ruptured Starter Valve clearance motor out of adjustment cranks too slowly cases: is less than two cylinders 1100 kPa (I 1 kg/cm , 156 psi). 28 psi). is more than 200 kPa (2 kg/cm2,
Overhaul the engine in the following * Compression * Difference in compression pressure
pressure in one of the cylinders pressure between are below
* All compression
1300 kPa (13 kg/cm ,
184 psi) even when they measure more than
1100 kPa (11 kg/cm2,
156 psi).
COMPRESSION NOTE: Before testing
TEST PROCEDURE
the compression
of the engine, make sure
that the cylinder
head bolts and nuts are tightened to speci-
fied torque values. Warm up the engine before testing. Remove all the spark plugs. Fit the compression taking Twist Crank the cylinder. Repeat this procedure 09915-64510 09918-03810 with the other cylinder. gauge the throttle the engine maximum gauge 0 grip full gauge in one of the plug holes, while is tight. the starter, and record of the care that the connection open. as th re compress ion
a few seconds with reading
: Compression : Adaptor
The parts listed for removal and reinstallation instructions.
below
can be removed and reinstalled
without
removing
the engine from
the frame.
Refer
to the page listed in this section
ENGINE See page ...... 3-14 3-3 3-l 2 3-l 3 ....... 7-7 7-7 3-15 3-3 5-7 Starter motor assembly ............ 3-l 2 Gearshift 3-14 Oil pressure switch ................ 3-l 7 Primary Oil sump filter ................... 3-12 Carburetor ...................... 3-3 Oil pump driven Oil filter ........................ 3-12 driven gear Exhaust pipe and muffler ........... 3-3 Clutch 3-3 Radiator ........................ 3-3 Clutch pressure, drive and See page
LEFT
SIDE
ENGINE
CENTER
ENGINE
RIGHT
SIDE See page 3-9 3-9 B
Secondary
bevel gear case cover
cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. .. . . . . . . .. .. .. .. . . . . . . . . .. .. .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . drive gear shaft .. . . . . . . .. .. . . . . . .
Secondary
bevel gear case ...........
Gearshift
lever
...................
Generator
cover
..................
3-10 3-10 3-10 3-11 . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-11
!z d v) 3 z
Generator
rotor
..................
Oil pump drive chain Oil pump assembly
Neutral
indicator
switch
body
Generator
stator
..................
Pick-up
coil
.....................
0 < $ ii s ? 2 m z 4 m z
Secondary
driven
bevel gear .........
Water pump case
.................
Water pump assembly
..............
3-3 ENGINE
ENGINE REMOVAL AND REINSTALLATION

ENGINE REMOVAL
Bafore taking the engine out of the frame, thoroughly explained clean the engine with steps. a suitable cleaner. The procedure of engine removal is sequentially in the following _
1. Remove the oil drain
plug to drain out engine oil. cap. -
2. Remove the frame head cover and radiator 4. Remove the seat. 5. Disconnect CAUTION: the battery 0 and 0
3. Remove the water drain plug to drain out coolant. lead wires from the battery terminals, remove the battery.
Be sure to disconnect the
@ lead wire first.
6. Remove all the frame covers. 7. Turn the fuel cock OFF the fuel hose. mufflers. lead wires. * Starter * Starter motor relay gauge * Cooling * Neutral * Ground fan motor indicator lead lead the following position and remove the fuel tank mounting bolts, remove the fuel tank by disconnecting 9. Disconnect * Generator * Pick-up coil
8. Remove the left and right * Side stand switch
* Water temperature bevel gear case cover. by removing the
* Oil pressure indicator 10. Remove the secondary 11. Remove the clutch 12. Remove fan. 13. Remove the left-footrest. 14. Remove the gearshift lever. 15. Remove the water pump case. 16. Loosen the shaft drive boot clamp. 17. Remove the coolant 18. Disconnect 19. Disconnect 20. Disconnect 21. Disconnect reservoir tank. cables. head. carburetor intake pipe. backward. mounting bolts, remove fuel hose. the rear cylinder hose from clamps. mounting bolts bolts and slide the air cleaner and rear brake master cylinder the front the choke cables and throttle the rear carburetor the breather hose from the radiator release cam assembly. radiator protector, radiator hose clamps and radiator cooling
the fuel pump vacuum and rear carburetor
22. Loosen the front 24. Remove the front 25. Remove 26. Support
23. Remove the rear carburetor
air cleaner
and rear carburetors.
the rear brake pedal mounting the engine with a proper jack.
the brake pedal and master cylinder. 27. Remove the engine mounting CAUTION: When holding damaged. 28. Dismount the engine by pulling slightly forward and to right-side. bolts, nuts, spacer, brackets and right frame down tube securing bolts. a jack, place a wooden piece on a jack or oil pan may be
the engine with
ENGINE
3-4
ENGINE REINSTALLATION
Reinstall the engine in the reverse order of engine removal.
l
Install the brackets, spacer, bolts and nuts properly,
as shown in the following
illustration.
NOTE: The engine mounting nuts are self-locking. Once the nut has been removed, it is no longer of any use. Be sure to use new nuts and tighten them to the specified torque.
3-5 ENGINE
After
remounting cable
the engine,
route wiring
harness, cables for wire (See pages 9-12
and hoses properly routing, through 23.)

l
by referring
to the sections,
routing
and hose routing.
Adjust the following
items to the specification. Page
* * * * * *
Filling coolant Throttle
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2-10 . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2-10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-9 , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2-l qt) of engine oil SAE lOW/40 2
Clutch cable play Idling adjustment
cable play . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-9
Balancing carburetors
Rear brake pedal height Pour 3.3 L (3.5/2.9 Start idle
US/Imp
graded SE or SF into the engine after overhauling

l
engine. engine,
up the engine and allow it run for several minutes at speed. About several minutes after stopping the marks of oil
check that the oil level remains between level inspection window. Change Filter change 2400 ml (2.5/2.1 2800 ml (3.0/2.5 I 3300 ml (3.V2.9
US/Imp US/Imp US/Imp
qt) qt) qt) 1
Overhau I
ENGINE 3-6
ENGINE DISASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Be sure to camshaft, identify piston, each removed part such as intake pipe, conrod etc. as to its location and lay the
parts out in groups so that each will be restored to the original location during assembly.
Remove the valve inspection caps.
Remove the cylinder
head covers.
NOTE: When removing the cylinder head covers, the piston must be at top dead center on the compression stroke.
No. 2 (FRONT)
No. 1 (REAR)
Flatten bolts.
the lock washers and remove the camshaft and sprockets.
sprocket
Remove the camshafts
l l
Remove the front
intake
pipe.
Loosen the water hose clamp screws.
Remove
the water
pipe/water
hose by removing
the water
pipe bolts and loosening
the water hose clamp screw.
l l
Remove the cylinder Remove respective the front cylinders.
head bolts. and rear cylinder heads along with the
ENGINE
3-8
Remove the cylinder
head nuts and bolts.
After insert body.
releasing the ratchet, a screwdriver
push the chain tensioner ratchet and chain
rod and tensioner
between cylinder
Separate the respective
heads and cylinders.
Check the F and R
piston
marks.
Place a clean rag over the cylinder circlips from dropping into pin circlips Drive out with long-nose pliers.
base to prevent Remove drift.
piston
pin
crankcase.
the piston
the piston
pins by using proper
3-9 ENGINE
After
removing
the clutch with
cover
bolts,
remove
the clutch
cover by tapping
a plastic
hammer.
l l
Remove the clutch
spring mounting
bolts diagonally.
Remove the pressure plate.
Remove push rod.
the clutch
push
piece,
thrust
washer,
bearing
and
Remove the clutch
drive and driven
plates.
Remove the clutch
sleeve hub nut by using the special tool.
09920-50710
: Clutch sleeve hub holder
Remove
the
back torque
limiter
(c
along with
the clutch
sleeve hub 0.
ENGINE 3-10
Remove the thrust washer.
Remove the oil pump driven gear circlip. : Snap ring pliers
09900-06107
Remove the primary
driven
gear assembly, oil pump drive
chain and oil pump driven gear.
Remove the thrust washer and spacer.
Remove primary
the drive
primary
drive
gear bolt
while
holding
the
gear with
the special tool
and remove the
primary drive gear. 09930-40113 CAUTION This bolt : has left-hand thread. Turning it counter-clockwise : Rotor holder
it may cause damage.
l l
Remove the cam chain guide and cam chain. Remove the camshaft drive sprocket and thrust washer. -
Remove the oil pump by removing the bolts.
l l
Remove the gearshift shaft 0. Remove the paw1 lifter and cam guide by removing the nuts @ and screws 0.
09900-09003
l
: Impact driver set
Remove the gearshift cam driven gear retaining bolt @.
Remove the gearshift cam driven gear 0.
NOTE: When removing gearshift pawl

@
the gearshift
, pin
cam
driven 0.
gear,
do not
lose
@ and spring
Unhook
the gearshift cam stopper spring 0,
gearshift cam
stopper plate @ and washer 8.
ENGINE 3-12
Remove the oil sump filter cap and oil sump filter.
Remove the oil filter by using the special tool. : Oil filter wrench
09915-40611
Remove the starter motor cover.
Remove the starter motor.
Remove the generator cover.
3-13 ENGINE
Remove the starter driven gear and its idle gear.
Loosen the rotor bolt.
NOTE: When removing the rotor, do not remove the rotor bolt after with loosening the bolt. the rotor remover. The rotor bolt is used in conjunction
Remove the rotor by using the special tool. models) : Rotor remover : Rotor remover
(For U.S.A. 09930-30720 09930-34970
(For the other models)
l l
Remove the key (iJ. Remove the starter driven gear.
Remove the cam chain guide and cam chain.
ENGINE 3-14
Remove the neutral
switch
assembly.
NOTE: Do not lose the neutral switch contact and its spring.
Disconnect
the oil pressure switch
lead wire.
Install gear. Remove
the
universal
joint
into @
the secondary and secondary
driven drive
bevel bevel
the driveshaft
bolt holding
gear shaft nut @ while CAUTION: Driveshaft bolt 0
the universal
joint.
has left-hand thread.
Remove secondary
the secondary
driven
bevel gear housing
bolts
and
bevel gear case bolts.
Remove bearing.
the
secondary
driven
bevel
gear assembly
and
Remove the crankcase
securing
bolts.
Separate
the crankcase tool.
into
2 parts,
right
and left
with
crankcase separating 09920-13120 NOTE: Fit the crankcase
: Crankcase separating tool
separating
tool,
so that
the tool plate
is
parallel half
with the end face of the crankcase. The crankshaft components must remain
and
transmission
in the left crankcase
Remove the gearshift Remove the gearshift Remove secondary the driveshaft reduction
fork shafts and gearshift cam. assembly, gear. countershaft
forks. assembly and
Remove the crankshaft.
ENGINE 3-16
Loosen
the
secondary
drive
bevel gear housing
bolts
and
remove the secondary
drive bevel gear assembly.
TRANSMISSION
DISASSEMBLY
l
Disassemble
the transmission
gears as shown
in the illustration.
Reduction Low driven 4th driven 3rd driven Driveshaft Top driven 2nd driven drive gear
drive gear gear gear gear gear
gear
CountershaftlLow 4th drive 3rd drive (@ Top drive @ 2nd drive gear gear gear gear
LUBRICATION RELATED PARTS

l
Remove the oil pipe and O-rings.
CAUTION: The removed O-ring should be replaced with a new one.
Remove the oil pressure regulator.
Remove the oil pressure switch.
NOTE: When reinstalling BOND the oil pressure switch, apply the SUZUKI 1215 to thread part. NO. 1207B/NO. model) : SUZUKI : SUZUKI BOND BOND NO. 1207B NO. 1215
(For U.S.A. 99104-31140 99000-31110
Check the oil jet fitted on the crankcase for clogging.
NOTE: When installing O-ring. the oil jet, apply the motor oil to the oil jet
ENGINE 3-18
CRANKCASE BEARING OIL AND SEAL

l
Remove the bearing
retainer
screws.
NOTE: When reinstalling SUPER the bearing retainers, apply THREAD LOCK 1303/1324 to bearing retainer bolts or screws.
(For U.S.A. model) 99000-32030 99000-32120

l
: TH READ : THREAD
LOCK SUPER LOCK SUPER
1303 1324
Remove the bearings and oil seal by using the special tools. : Bearing remover : Bearing remover : Sliding shaft
09914-79610 09923-73210 09930-30102
COOLING NOTE:
SYSTEM
RELATED
PARTS
When reinstalling
each cover, check that the O-ring is installed.
ENGINE 3-20
ENGINE COMPONENTS
CYLINDER HEAD COVER
DISASSEMBLY CAUTION: Be sure to identify lay the parts out No. 2 cylinder,
INSPECTION AND SERVICING

L
No. 2
each removed part as to its location, in groups designated Exhaust, Inlet, so that each will
and be
as No. 1 cylinder,
restored to the original location during assembly.
Loosen the rocker arm shafts and pull out the rocker arm shafts. (Refer to page 3-60 for reassembly)
CYLINDER HEAD COVER DISTORTION

After fitting removing sealant (SUZUKI surface of the cylinder BOND NO. 1216) from the with head cover, place the cylinder
head cover on a surface plate and check for distortion a thickness gauge. Check points are shown in Fig.
Service Limit 09900-20803
: 0.05 mm (0.002 : Thickness gauge
in)
If the distortion cover.
exceeds the limit,
replace the cylinder
head
ROCKER ARM SHAFT O.D.

Measure diameter of rocker arm shaft. Standard : 11.966 (0.4711 09900-20205 11.984 - 0.4718 mm in) (0 - 25 mm)
: Micrometer
3-21
ENGINE
ROCKER ARM I.D.

When checking the valve rocker the valve rocker arm, the inside diameter arm and wear of the camshaft of contacting
surface should be checked. Standard : 12.000 (0.4725 09900-20605 12.018 - 0.4731 mm in)
: Dial calipers
CAMSHAFT
The camshafts should be checked for wear and also for runout of cams and journals abnormal The F R these malconditions camshaft if the engine has been noted to produce or to lack output power. Any of could be caused by a worn camshafts. by the embossed-letters, noise or vibration
can be distinguished
F and R, on the camshaft. : Front (No. 2) camshaft : Rear (No. 1) camshaft

FRONT CYLINDER TDC I Exhaust close
I
REAR CYLINDER
BDC
I
Exhaust close
TDC I
BDC
ENGINE
3-22
CAMSHAFT CAM WEAR

Worn-down cams are often the cause of mistimed valve operain reduced output which power. The limit of cam wear Retion resulting height
is specified for both intake and exhaust cams in terms of cam
@,
is to be measured with a micrometer.
place camshafts if found worn down to the limit. Cam height Service Limit 09900-20202 @ Intake cam : 35.660 mm (1.4039 mm (1.4417 in) in) Exhaust cam : 36.620 : Micrometer
(25 - 50 mm)
CAMSHAFT JOURNAL WEAR

Determine not by camshaft whether installed. each journal camshaft is worn down to the limit or oil clearance to read the with the clearance, measuring journal
Use plastigauge
which is specified as follows: Camshaft journal oil clearance Service Limit o Tighten : 0.15 mm (0.006 in)
the cylinder
head cover bolts evenly and diagonally
to the specified torque. Cylinder head cover tightening N.m 21 -25 911 torque kg-m 2.1 - 2.5 0.9 1.1 lb-ft 15.0 18.0
Length 140 mm 235 mm The others 09900-22301 NOTE: To properly gasket cylinder measure must
6.5 - 8.0
: Plastigauge
the oil clearance be removed from
with plastigauge, fitting BOND
all NO.
material
surfaces of
head and cover. Do not apply SUZUKI
1216 until after the oil clearance has been determined. If the camshaft Replace either journal oil clearance measured exceeds the
limit, measure the outside diameter of camshaft. the cylinder head set or the cam shaft if the clearance is incorrect. 09900-20205 : Micrometer (0 - 25 mm)
3-23
ENGINE
CAMSHAFT RUNOUT
Measure the runout the runout 09900-20701 09900-20606 09900-21304 Service Limit with a dial gauge. Replace the camshaft if exceeds the limit. : Magnetic : V-block stand (100 mm) in)
: Dial gauge (1 /lOO mm)
: 0.1 mm (0.004
CAM CHAIN TENSIONER

For driving the camshafts, two cam chain Unlock tensioners the ratchet are used mechais faulty, on the respective ly. cam drive chains. is noted
nism, and move the push rod in place to see if it slides smoothIf any stickiness or ratchet with mechanism a new one. by the embossedreplace the chain tensioner The cam chain tensioner assembly
can be distinguished
letters, F and , on the cam chain tensioners. RI ,I I, F : Front (No. 2) cam chain tensioner R : Rear (No. 1) cam chain tensioner
CAM CHAIN GUIDE

Two kinds of cam chain guide are used on the respective cam / (No. 2) cam chain guide
F
drive chains. I, I, F : Front R
: Rear (No. 1) cam chain guide
CAM CHAIN 20-PITCH LENGTH

Pull the chain tight to remove the 20-pitch any slack, length of then cam using chain. vernier If it
123 192021
calipers,
measure
measures more than limit, Service Limit : 128.9
replace the cam chain.
mm (5.07 in)
ENGINE
3-24
VALVE AND VALVE SPRING DISASSEMBLY

l
Using special the two cotter
tools,
compress
the valve springs
and remove
halves @ from valve stem.
09916-14510 09916-14910 09916-84510
: Valve spring compressor : Valve spring compressor attachment : Tweezers
Remove spring.
the
valve
spring
retainer,
inner
spring
and outer
Pull out the valve from
the other side.
NOTE:
Removal of valves completes parts, carry out ordinary disassembling work. If valve guides have to be removed ing related servicing. (Refer to page 3-30 for reassembly./ for replacement after inspectin valve guide
the steps shown
CYLINDER HEAD DISTORTION

l
Decarbonize
the combustion surface and places
chambers. head for distortion taking largest a clearance reading at replace the gauge, If the
Check the gasketed with a straightedge at several head. reading cylinder
of the cylinder indicated.
thickness
any position
of the straightedge
exceeds the limit,
09900-20803 Service Limit
: Thickness gauge : 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
VALVE FACE WEAR

Visually inspect each valve for wear of its seating face. Replace an abnormally 3 and, worn face. is found to have decreases as the wear of the face advances. if the thickness replace it. any valve with The thickness Measure been reduced Service Limit
the thickness
to the limit,
: 0.5 mm (0.02 in)
VALVE STEM RUNOUT

Support runout the valve with with V blocks, as shown, and check its a dial gauge. if the runout in) exceeds the limit.
The valve must be replaced Service Limit 09900-20701 09900-20606 09900-2
: 0.05 mm (0.002 : Magnetic stand : Dial gauge (l/100
mm)
1304 : V-block
VALVE HEAD RADIAL RUNOUT

Place the dial gauge at right If it measures more than limit, Service Limit 09900-20701 09900-20606 : 0.03 mm (0.001 : Magnetic stand : Dial gauge (I /IO0 mm) angles to the valve head face, and replace the valve. in) measure the valve head radial runout.
09900-2 1304 : V-block
VALVE GUIDE TO VALVE STEM CLEARANCE

Measure pendicular then the clearance in two directions X and , Y specified guide perbelow, be range: to each other, measured whether by rigging up the dial gauge as shown. exceeds the limit, the valve or the to within in) in) should
If the clearance determine replaced
to reduce the clearance IN.
the standard
Service Limit 09900-20701 09900-20606
: 0.35 mm (0.014
EX. : 0.35 mm (0.014 : Magnetic stand : Dial gauge (l/100
mm)
ENGINE 3-26
VALVE STEM WEAR

If the valve stem is worn down to the limit, as measured with a micrometer, limit, then where the clearance is found to be in excess of replace the valve, if the stem is within replacing the valve or guide, the limit indicated
replace the guide, After
be sure to re-check the clearance. 09900-20205 : Micrometer (0 - 25 mm)
Valve stem O.D. Standard IN. : 5.465 - 5.480 mm (0.2152 - 5.465 mm (0.2146 - 0.2157 - 0.2152 in) in) EX. : 5.450
VALVE GUIDE SERVICING

l
Using the valve guide remover
0,
drive the valve guide out
toward intake or exhaust rocker arm side. 0991644910 : Valve guide remover/installer
Re-finish
the
valve
guide
holes in cylinder
head with
10.8 mm reamer and handle. 09916-34580 09916-34541 NOTE: * Discard the removed valve guide subassemblies. * Only oversized valve guide is available. : Valve guide hole reamer : Reamer handle
Lubricate attachment.
each valve guide with
engine oil and drive the
guide into the guide hole using the valve guide installer and
09916-44910 0991644920
: Valve guide remover/installer : Valve guide installer attachment
After with
fitting
all valve guides, re-finish
their
guiding
bores
a 5.5 mm reamer.
Be sure to clean and oil the guide
after reaming. 09916-34550 09916-34541 : Valve guide reamer : Reamer handle
l l
Fit the valve spring lower seats. Lubricate each oil seal with engine oil, and press-fit the oil seal into position with the finger tip.
CAUTION: Do not reuse the oil seal.
VALVE SEAT WIDTH

Coat the valve seat with prussian blue uniformly. and tap the coated seat with manner, contact. The in order to obtain In this operation, dye impression without a clear impression Fit the valve of the seating the valve face in a rotating
use the valve lapper to hold the left on the valve face must be the width of the must be within seat width,
valve head. ring-like continuous the following any break. In addition,
dye ring, which is the visualized specification:
Valve seat width STD. @ : 0.9 1.1 mm (0.035 - 0.043 in)
If either requirement as follows:
is not met, correct the seat by servicing it
ENGINE 3-28
VALVE SEAT SERVICING

The valve seats for both intake and exhaust valves are machined to two different bustion chamber) angles. The seat contact surface is cut 45 surface (closest to the comis cut to 15. model) and the area above the contact
Parts list of valve seat servicing tools (For U.S.A.
N-l 16 (15 x 45 cutter) for both IN. and EX. (45) Valve seat cutter head and for EX. (15) N-212 and Blade (N-635) for IN. 15 Solid pilot Adapter T-handle NOTE: The valve seat contact
l
N-140-5.5 N-503-1 N -503 ,
area must be inspected
after each cut. Seat the pilot
Insert the solid pilot @ with a slight rotation. snugly. Install the 45 cutter, attachment Using the 45 cutter, or two turns. Inspect
and T-handle.
descale and cleanup the seat with one seat width measurement additional seat
the seat by the previous If the seat is pitted
procedure. conditioning CAUTION: Cut only
or burned,
with the 45 cutter is required.
the minimum
amount
necessary from
the seat to
prevent the possibility
of the valve stem becoming too close to
the cam for correct valve clearance adjustment. Parts list of valve seat servicing tools (For the other models) 09916-24420 09916-24910 09916-24480 09916-21110 : Valve seat cutter (N-l 16) : Valve seat cutter (N-212) : Solid pilot (N-140-5.5) : Valve seat cutter set
Contact valve If the contact area is too high on the valve, or use a 15 cutter to lower and area. area too high and too wide on face of
if it is too wide, narrow
the contact
After the
the desired very previous
seat position lightly operations. cut
and width DO finish provide will
is achieved, use
use
the 45 cutter compound seat should polished the final
to clean up any burrs caused by NOT lapping valve is made. The finished
cutting after
the final finish.
have a velvety
smooth which
and not a highly a soft surface for occur during the

Contact of valve If the contact use the contact 45 area. area is too cutter to low or too narrow, raise and widen the area too low on face
or shiny seating
This will
of the valve
first few seconds of engine operation. Clean and assemble the head and valve components. intake and exhaust ports with prevent any leaks occur, inspect Fill the gasoline to check for leaks. If the valve from sealing.
and too narrow
the valve seat and face for burrs or
other things that could WARNING: Always
use extreme caution when handling gasoline.
VALVE STEM END CONDITION

Inspect may the valve stem end face for pitting providing that the and wear. If pitting the valve stem end @ will length not be becomes After or wear of the stem end face are present, be resurfaced, to less than reduced less than installing the totters 4.0 mm (0.15 in).
length If this
4.0 mm (0.15 in), the valve must be replaced. a valve whose stem end has been ground 0.
off as above,
check to ensure that the face @ of the valve stem end is above
I
VALVE SPRING
The often force of the two springs result coil springs keeps the valve seat tight. engine power output, and from their them. reading the valve Weakened mechanism. Check the springs for strength and also the force required by the indicated is exceeded by measuring to compress free length free lengths If the or limit if the replace in reduced
account
for the chattering
noise coming
measured force does not fall within
the range specified,
both inner and outer springs as a set. Valve spring free length limit INNER 38.3 (1.51) Unit: OUTER 40.1 (1.58) mm (in)
ENGINE
3-30
Valve spring tension Spring INNER Standard 6.51 - 7.49 kg/32.5 (14.35 12.09 (26.65 mm in) mm in)
6.51 - 7.49 kg (14.35 - 16.51 Ibs) Q
16.51 lbs/1.28 13.91 kg/36.0
LL
32.5
mm (1.28 in)
OUTER
- 30.67
Ibs/l.42
VALVE AND VALVE SPRING REASSEMBLY

l
Insertthe
valves, with their stems coated with high quality disulfide lubricant (SUZUKI MOLY PASTE) any break.
molybdenum
all around and along the full stem length without CAUTION:
When inserting each valve, take care not to damage the lip of the stem seal. 99000-25140
l
: SUZUKI
MOLY
PASTE the small-pitch portion @
Install
the valve springs with head. portion.
facing cylinder
l
@$ : Large-pitch
Put on the spring retainer and, using the valve spring compressor, press down the spring, fit the two cotter @ to wedge in between halves to the stem end, and release the compressor to allow the cotter seat and stem. Be sure that the rounded lip @ of the cotter fits snugly into the groove @
in the stem end. CAUTION: Be sure to restore each spring, valve and spring retainer to their original positions.
CYLINDER
a straightedge position cylinder. Cylinder of
DISTORTION
with and thickness gauge, taking a clearance reading If the largest reading at any limit, replace the the straightedge exceeds the
Check the gasketed surface of the cylinder for distortion at several places as indicated.
distortion : 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
Service Limit
3-31 ENGINE
CYLINDER
BORE
bore diameter at six places. If any one of and an oversize, or replace the cylinder. which measuremust be might imbalance cylinders exceeds the limit, overhaul the cylinder with is done on any one cylinder the limit, the remaining Otherwise the
Measure the cylinder the measurements replace ments also the piston is beyond rebored Once the reboring
accordingly.
causes excess vibration. Cylinder bore : 83.085 : Cylinder mm (3.2711 gauge set in)
Service Limit 09900-20508
PISTON
DIAMETER
measure the piston outside diameter at in Fig. If the measurement is less than the
Using a micrometer, the place shown
limit, replace the piston. Piston oversize : 0.5, Service Limit 09900-20204 : 82.880 1 .O mm mm (3.2630 in)
(0.6in)
: Micrometer
(75 - 100 mm)
PISTON TO CYLINDER
clearance
CLEARANCE
if the piston to cylinder overhaul the cylinder and piston. limit,
As a result of the above measurement, exceeds the following
and use an oversize piston, or replace both cylinder Service Limit : 0.120 mm (0.0047 in)
PISTON
RING TO GROOVE
CLEARANCE
Using a thickness gauge, measure the side clearances of the 1st and 2nd rings. If any one of the clearances exceeds the limit, replace both piston and piston rings. 09900-20803 : Thickness gauge
ENGINE
3-32
Piston [
ring to groove Piston 1st 2nd ring
clearance Service 0.18 0.15 mm mm Limit (0.007 (0.006 in) in) 1
Piston
ring groove Piston 1 st
width ring 1.01 (0.0398 1.21 (0.0476 2.51 (0.0988 Standard 1.03 mm in)
- 0.0406 1.23 mm
2nd
- 0.0484 2.53 mm
in)
Oil
0.0996
in)
Piston
ring thickness Piston 1st ring 0.970 (0.0382 1.170 (0.0461 Standard 0.990 0.0390 1.190 - 0.0469 mm in) mm in) 1
2nd
PISTON RING FREE END GAP AND END GAP

Before ring installing using vernier piston rings, measure Next, fit the free end gap of each the ring in the gauge. cylinder, calipers.
and measure
each ring end gap using a thickness end gap, replace
If any ring has an excess Piston ring free end gap Piston 1 st 2nd 09900-20101 ring
the ring.
Service R R 8.4 mm
Limit (0.33 (0.37 in) in)
9.4 mm
: Vernier calipers
Piston ring end gap Piston ring 0.70 Service mm Limit (0.028 in)
1st & 2nd 09900-20803 : Thickness gauge
0 Oversize piston ring The following two types of oversize piston rings are used. identification 1st 50 100 numbers. 2nd 50 100
0.5 mm O.S.
They bear the following SIZE 0.5 mm OS. 1 .O mm OS.
0 Oversize oil ring The following optional two types of oversize oil rings are available as identification COLOR NIL Painted Red Painted Yellow
Oil ring spacer
parts. They bear the following SIZE
marks.
1.O mm O.S.
STD 0.5 mm O.S. 1 .O mm O.S.
Oversize side rail Just measure outside diameter to identify the side rail as there is no mark or numbers on it.
Piint
PISTON PIN AND PIN BORE

Using a small bore gauge, measure the piston pin bore inside diameter, outside and using a micrometer, measure the piston pin limit, diameter. If the reading exceeds the following
replace both piston and piston pin. Piston pin bore I.D. Service Limit 09900-20602 0990022403 : 20.030 mm (0.7886 in) mm, 1 mm)
: Dial gauge (l/1000
: Small bore gauge (18 - 35 mm)
Using a micrometer, at three positions. Piston pin O.D. Service Limit 09900-20205 : 19.980
measure the piston pin outside diameter
mm (0.7866
in)
: Micrometer
(0 - 25 mm)
ENGINE 3-34
CONROD SMALL END I.D.

Using a small bore gauge, measure the conrod diameter. Conrod small end I.D. Service Limit If the conrod limit, : 20.040 small mm (0.7890 end inside in) diameter exceeds the above small end inside
mentioned
replace conrod.
I
by using a thickness replace the gauge. or
CONROD BIG END THRUST CLEARANCE

Check If the the conrod clearance thrust exceeds clearance the limit, conrod
crankshaft. Service Limit 09900-20803 : 0.30 mm (0.012 : Thickness gauge Standard in)
09900-20205 09900-20605
: Micrometer
(0 - 25 mm)
: Dial calipers (10 - 34 mm)
CONROD-CRANK PIN BEARING SELECTION

l
Loosen with
the bearing hammer
cap nuts
and tap the
bolt
end lightly
plastic
to remove the bearing cap.
Remove position. Inspect burn bearings.
the
rods and mark surfaces
them
to identify
the cylinder pitting, set of
the bearing
for any sign of fusion, with a specified
or flaws.
If any, replace them
NOTE: Never try to remove or loosen the conrod cap bolts due to their possible loosening in the rod. Once displaced, the bearing cap will not be fitted properly.
3-35 ENGINE
Place plastigauge Tighten
axially
on the crank two-step
pin avoiding torque values.
the oil
hole, at TDC or BDC side as shown.

l
the bearing cap with
NOTE: When fitting the bearing cap to crank pin, be sure to discriminate between its two ends, I.D. code side and the other. I. 0. code always faces in take valve side. Initial tightening Final tightening torque torque : 22 - 28 N-m (2.2 - 2.8 kg-m, 16.0 - 20.0 lb-ft) : 49 - 53 N-m (4.9 - 5.3 kg-m, 35.5 - 38.5 lb-ft) 09900-22301 : Plastigauge
NOTE: Never rotate the crankshaft or conrod when a piece of plastigauge is in the clearance.
Remove plastigauge
the
caps and with
measure part.
the
width
of
compressed should
envelope
scale. This
measurement
be taken at the widest
Crank pin bearing oil clearance Service Limit : 0.080 mm (0.0031 in) select the specified 0, , 1 0,
If oil clearance
exceeds the service limit, table. conrod crank
bearings from the following Check the corresponding 2 or . 3 Check the corresponding ,I, , 2, or . 3
I.D. code number
pin O.D. code number 0, , l
The crank pin O.D. code number are stamped on the left crank web.
2 or 3 which
Bearing selection table Crank pin O.D. code @ 1 Code Conrod I.D. code 0 1 2 3 1 Green Black Brown 2 Black Brown Yellow 3 Brown Yellow Blue
Oil clearance Standard : 0.024 - 0.042 mm (0.0009 - 0.0017 in)
ENGINE 3-36
Conrod
I.D. specification Code 0 I I.D. specification 44.000 - 44.006 1.7325 mm in)
(I .7323 -
Crank pin O.D. specification Code @ I O.D. specification 40.994 (I.6139 40.988 (1.6137 40.982 (1.6135 (25 - 50 mm) - 41 .OOO mm I.6142 in) mm in) mm in)
- 40.994 1.6139
- 40.988 1.6137
09900-20202 CAUTION:
: Micrometer
Bearing should be replaced as a set. Bearing thickness Color (Part No.) Green ( 12 164-45COO-OAO) Black (I 2164-45COO-060) Brown (12164-45COO-OCO) Yellow (I 2164-45COO-ODO) Blue (12164-45COO-OEO) Thickness 1.485 (0.0585 I .488 (0.0586 I .491 (0.0587 I .494 (0.0588 1.497 (0.0589 I .488 mm - 0.0586 in)
I .491 mm - 0.0587 in)
I .494 mm - 0.0588 in)
1.497 mm - 0.0589 in)
I .500 mm - 0.0590 in)
CONROD-CRANK PIN BEARING ASSEMBLY

l
When fitting end.
the bearing to the bearing cap and conrod, be @ first and press in the other
sure to fix the stopper part
Apply
engine oil or SUZUKI
MOLY
PASTE
to the crank
pin and bearing surface. 99000-25140 : SUZUKI MOLY PASTE
When Tighten
mounting
the conrod
on the crankshaft,
make sure
that I.D. code @ of the conrod faces rearward.

l
the conrod fitting
nuts with specified torque after
applying engine oil to the nut thread. Tightening Initial Final

l
torque
: 22 - 28 N-m (2.2 - 2.8 kg-m, 16.0 - 20.0 lb-ft) : 49 - 53 N.m (4.9 - 5.3 kg-m, 35.5 - 38.5 lb-ft) movement for smooth turning.
Check the conrod
CRANKCASE-CRANKSHAFT
l
BEARING SELECTION
journal bearings for
Inspect
the crankshaft
and crankshaft
any damage.
Measure the crankshaft tool.
journal
O.D. @ by using the special
09900-20202 Crankshaft Standard
: Micrometer journal O.D. @
(25 - 50 mm)
: 47.965
- 47.980
mm (1.8884
1.8890
in)
ENGINE
3-38
Measure the crankshaft special tool.
journal
bearing I.D. @ by using the
09900-20508
: Cylinder
gauge set
Crankshaft journal bearing I.D. @ Standard : 48.000 - 48.015 mm (1.8898 1.8904 in)
If each crankshaft
journal
bearing I.D. is not within
the stand-
ard range, replace them with new ones.
Remove
the
crankshaft
bearing
with
taking
care not to
damage the crankcase journal bearing hole. Inspect the journal bearing hole of crankcase for any sign of pitting or flaw. If any, repair it with emery paper. Install the new journal bearings into the crankcases by hydraulic press. bearings with the specified value by
Hone the new journal honing machine. CAUTION :
When honing the new journal bearings, be sure to mate the left and right crankcases. Crankshaft journal bearing I.D. : 48.000 (1.8898 - 48.015 1.8904 mm in)
CRANKSHAFT THRUST CLEARANCE

Install the crankshaft in the right crankcase half after installing the thrust shim on the crankshaft. NOTE: The oil grooved web side. Place the thrust washer, camshaft drive sprocket drive gear on the right end of the crankshaft primary drive gear bolt to the specified torque. and primary and tighten face of thrust shim @ is faced to crankshaft
Use a thickness
gauge to measure the thrust clearance between right crankcase and thrust washer.
3-39 ENGINE
Tightening
torque
: 80 (8.0 -
110 N-m 11 .O kg-m, 58.0 - 79.5 lb-ft)
Crankshaft
thrust clearance - 0.004 in)
Standard : 0.05 - 0.10 mm (0.002 09900-20803 If the thrust thrust clearance the the the : Thickness gauge clearance exceeds the
standard
range,
adjust
the
by the following thrust thrust thrust shim, shim and with
procedures. measure the other its thickness shim if the with thrust above
Remove Change clearance Perform
a micrometer. is incorrect. clearance measurement described
once again. 09900-20205 : Micrometer (0 - 25 mm)
Checking to make sure it is within
standard Unit: mm (in)
Part number
Thrust shim thickness

I
09160-48001 09160-48002 09 160-48003 09 160-48004
1.925 1.950 1.975 2.000
1.950 1.975 2.000 2.025 2.050 2.075 2.100 2.125 2.150 2.175
(0.0758 (0.0768 (0.0778 (0.0787 (0.0797 (0.0807 (0.0817 (0.0827 (0.0837 (0.0847
- 0.0768) 0.0778)
1 I
- 0.0787) - 0.0797) - 0.0807) - 0.0817) - 0.0827) 0.0837)

I
1
I
09 160-48005 09 160-48006 09 160-48007 09 160-48008 09 160-48009 09 160-48010
2.025 2.050 2.075 2.100 2.125 2.150
- 0.0847) - 0.0856)
CLUTCH DRIVE PLATE AND DRIVEN PLATE

Clutch lubricated driven last ated. oil used much plates with longer. in the plates in service oil. are subject Their clutch and remain to little in oily condition action as they both on the the clutch drive quality were and of Because of this condition, wearing way largely
and therefore is oper-
life depends also on the
ENGINE
340
These when
plates found
are expendable: worn to down check
they
are meant
to be replaced limit: gauge and
or distorted thickness
to the respective
use a caliper
and a thickness
surface plate to check distortion. 09900-20101 09900-20803 : Vernier calipers
: Thickness gauge
Unit: I Service Limit No. 1 Thickness No. 2 I Drive plate 1
mm (in) I
Driven plate
Distortion Claw width
15.0 (0.59)
15.0 (0.59)
0.1 (0.004)
CLUTCH SPRING FREE LENGTH

Measure calipers, specified within the and limit. free length of the each coil elastic springs spring if any with a vernier the is not compare Replace strength of each with spring
all the
the limit.
Clutch spring free length Service Limit No. 1 : 24.6 mm (0.97 in) No. 2 : 23.3 mm (0.92 in)
CLUTCH BEARING
Inspect larly clutch push piece bearing for any abnormality, upon removal from the clutch, be replaced. of the clutch depends particucracks, to decide whether
it can be reused or should Smooth engagement much on the condition NOTE: Thrust bearing. washer is located
and disengagement of this bearing.
between
the pressure plate and thrust
341
ENGINE
GENERATOR AND SIGNAL GENERATOR SERVICING

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When
replacing
the generator LOCK 1342
coil or signal generator coil, (99000-32050) to the stator
apply THREAD
set screws and its lead wire guide screws. NOTE: Wipe off oil or grease on screw completely, THREAD LOCK 1342 : and then apply
STARTER CLUTCH SERVICING

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Hold
the rotor
with off-set wrench and remove the starter
clutch securing bolts. 09914-25811 : T type hexagon wrench (6 mm)
When
fitting
the
one way clutch
to the guide,
position
flange side of one way clutch to the rotor side.
Apply securing
THREAD bolts
LOCK
SUPER them
1303/1305 to the specified
to the torque
and tighten
while holding the rotor with off-set wrench. (For U.S.A. 99000-32030 99000-32100 09914-25811 Tightening model) : THREAD : THREAD LOCK SUPER LOCK SUPER 1303 1305
: T type hexagon wrench torque : 23 - 28 N-m (2.3 - 2.8 kg-m, 16.5 - 20.0 lb-ft)
Check the operation driven gear. NOTE:
of starter clutch
by turning
the starter
The gear turns one direction
only.
ENGINE 3-42
OIL PUMP
CAUTION: Do not attempt to disassemble the oil pump assembly. The oil pump is available only as an assembly.
TRANSMISSION
TRANSMISSION GEARS AND RELATED PARTS
3-43 ENGINE
GEAR-SHIFTING FORK CLEARANCE

Using a thickness The clearance gauge, check the shifting fork clearance in forks plays an the groove of its gear. for each of the three shifting important action. If the clearance checked is noted to exceed the limit specified, replace the fork or its gear, or both. 09900-20803 09900-20101 : Thickness gauge : Vernier calipers .role in the smoothness and positiveness of shifting
Shift fork - Groove clearance Standard Service Limit : 0.10 - 0.30 mm (0.004 : 0.50 mm (0.020 in) - 0.012 in)
Shift fork groove width Standard No. 1 : 5.50 - 5.60 mm (0.217 No. 2 : 4.50 - 4.60 mm (0.177 - 0.220 - 0.181 in) in)
Shift fork thickness Standard NO. 1 : 5.30 - 5.40 mm (0.209 No. 2 : 4.30 - 4.40 mm (0.169 - 0.213 - 0.173 in) in)
COUNTERSHAFT AND DRIVESHAFT

REASSEMBLY Assemble the countershaft points: NOTE: Always NOTE: Before installing 99000-25140 CAUTION: Never reuse a circlip. When installing After a circlip has been removed from a shaft, it should be discarded and a new care must be taken not to expand the end gap larger than required to slip seated in its groove and securely fitted. circlip must be installed. a new circlip, the circlip over the shaft. After installing a circlip, always insure that it is completely When installing of the circlip. in figure. a new circlip, pay attention to the direction the gears, coat lightly MOLY PASTE moly paste or engine oil to the driveshaft and countershaft. use new circlips. and driveshaft, in the reverse order of disassembly. Pay attention to following
: SUZUKI
Fit it to the side where the thrust is as shown
4 Sharp edg
ENGINE 3-44
TOP DRIVE
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GEAR
BUSHING the top drive gear bushing, align the bushing oil hole 0.
When installing
oil hole @ with the countershaft
LOW AND
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3RD DRIVEN
GEAR
BUSHINGS
When installing
the low and 3rd driven gear bushings, align
the bushing oil hole @ with the driveshaft oil hole 0.
3RD DRIVEN
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GEAR
LOCK WASHERS driven gear onto the driveshaft, and @I onto the driveshaft,
When install Then, 0.
installing
the 3rd
the lock washer No. 2
turn and fit it into the groove.

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fit the lock washer No. 1 @ in the lock washer No. 2
ENGINE REASSEMBLY
This engine is reassembled by carrying out the steps of disassembly or precautionary in the reverse order, but there are a measures. number of steps which demand special descriptions NOTE: Apply engine oil to each running and sliding part before reassembling.
3-45
ENGINE
Install the thrust shim on the crankshaft.
NOTE: The oil grooved face of thrust shim 0 web side. is faced to crankshaft
Install the crankshaft
into the left crankcase half.
NOTE: Coat lightly moly paste to the crankshaft journal bearings. 99000-25140 CAUTION: Never fit the crankshaft a plastic hammer. It is easy to install the crankshaft
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: SUZUKI
MOLY
PASTE
into the crankcase by striking it with to left crankcase.
Install the secondary drive bevel gear assembly. Tighten the secondary drive bevel gear housing bolts to the specified torque.
WARNING: Never hit the secondary drive bevel gear. Maybe, secondary drive bevel gear circlip will be detached. Tightening torque : 18 - 28 N-m (I .8 - 2.8 kg-m, 13.0 - 20.0 lb-ft) lnstal I the countershaft reduc :tion driven gear. 0 lnstal I the gearshift forks, gearshift fork shafts and gearshift cam.
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assembly,
driveshaft
assembly and
lnstal I a new O-ring 0.
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Install the new O-rings 0. Apply engine oil to the oil pipe end. Tighten applying the oil pipe bolts with TH READ LOCK the specified torque after to SUPER 1322/13338
securing bolts. Tightening torque : 8 12 N-m 1.2 kg-m, 6.0 - 8.5 lb-ft)
(0.8 (For U.S.A. 99000-32020 99000-32110 model) : THREAD : THREAD
1333B 1322
ENGINE 3-46
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Clean the mating surfaces of the left and right crankcases. Fit the dowel pins on the left crankcase. Apply SUZUKI BOND NO. 1215/No. 1207B to the mating surface of the right crankcase.
(For U.S.A. 99104-31140 99000-31110 NOTE:
model) : SUZUKI : SUZUKI BOND BOND NO. 1207B NO. 1215
Use of SUZUKI Make Spread
BOND free
NO. from thinly
1215/NO. moisture,
12078 oil,
is as follows: dust and other and as1215/No.
surfaces
foreign materials. on surfaces to form an even layer, NO. semble the crankcases within few minutes. Take extreme Apply care not to apply any BOND 1207B to the oil hole, oil groove and bearing. to distorted surfaces as it forms a comparatively thick film. Place the gaskets @ as shown in Fig. Fit the engine ground wire to the correct position as shown in Fig. Check that shafts turn smoothly. CAUTION: Use new gasket to prevent oil leakage.
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When
securing
the right and left crankcases, tighten
each all
bolt a little
at a time to equalize
the pressure. Tighten
the securing bolts to the specified torque values. Tightening torque N-m Initial kg-m lb-ft N-m Final kg-m lb-ft 6 mm bolt 8 mm bolt
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Install the oil sump filter. Fit the O-ring to the oil sump filter cap.
CAUTION: Use new O-ring to prevent oil leakage.

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Coat grease to the O-ring and install the oil sump filter cap.
3-47
ENGINE
Connect
the oil
pressure switch
lead wire and install the
neutral switch.
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Install the cam chain and cam chain guide. Tighten the cam chain guide set bolt to the specified torque. torque : 8 - 12 N-m (0.8 - 1.2 kg-m, 6.0 - 8.5 lb-ft) Fit the key in the key slot on the crankshaft.
Tightening
Degrease the crankshaft. dry.
tapered
portion
of the
rotor
and also the
Use nonflammable
cleaning solvent to wipe off
the oily or greasy matter to make these surfaces completely Install the rotor onto the crankshaft, Apply THREAD LOCK SUPER 1303/1305 to the rotor bolt and tighten it to the specified torque.
Tightening torque : 140 - 160 N-m (14.0 - 16.0 kg-m, 101.5 - 115.5 lb-ft) (For U.S.A. model) 99000-32030 : THREAD (For the other models) 99000-32100 : THREAD
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LOCK SUPER 1303 LOCK SUPER 1305
Install the starter driven gear and its idle gear. Fit the dowel pins and attach new gasket. Apply SUZUKI BOND NO. 1207B/NO.
1215 to the groove
of generator lead wire grommet.
(For U.S.A. model) 99104-31140 : SUZUKI BOND NO. 1207B (For the other models) 99000-31110 : SUZUKI BOND NO. 1215
ENGINE 348
Install the generator cover.
NOTE: Fit the new gaskets @ to the correct positions as shown in Fig. CAUTION: Use new gasket to prevent oil leakage.
Mount
the starter
motor
to the crankcase and route the
starter motor lead wire properly. NOTE: Pass the generator lead wire through the crankcase hole before installing the starter motor.
Install the dowel pins. Check the oil jet @ for clogging. Install the secondary driven bevel gear assembly, correct shims and a new O-ring. Apply engine oil to the bearing and gears. NOTE: Be sure to align the bearing pin @ with the bearing pin hole.
Apply
SUZUKI
BOND
NO. 1207B/NO.
1215 to the secon-
dary bevel gear case. CAUTION: Be careful not to block the oil passage 0. (For U.S.A. 99104-31140 99000-31110 Tighten torque. ITEM N.m Tightening torque kg-m lb-ft 1.2 8.5 1.8 13.0 2.0 - 2.4 14.5 17.5 Initial 12 18 Final 20 - 24 model) : SUZUKI : SUZUKI the secondary BOND BOND NO. 12079 NO. 1215
(For other models)
bevel gear case bolts to the specified
3-49 ENGINE
Apply
THREAD
LOCK
SUPER
1303
to the secondary -
driven bevel gear housing bolts.

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Tighten the bolts to the specified torque. : THREAD torque LOCK SUPER 1303
99000-32030 Tightening
: 18 - 28 N-m (1.8 - 2.8 kg-m, 13.0 - 20.0 lb-ft) -
NOTE: The cutaway portion faces down ward.

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@ of secondary driven bevelgear housing
Install shaft. Install gear. Tighten
the washer the universal
onto the secondary drive bevel gear into the secondary driven @ bevel and
joint
the secondary bolt
drive bevel gear shaft nut
driveshaft
@ to the specified torque while holding the
universal joint. Tightening torque 110 N-m (8.0 - 11 .O kg-m, 58.0 - 79.5 lb-ft) Driveshaft bolt : 60 - 70 N.m (6.0 - 7.0 kg-m, 43.5 - 50.5 lb-ft) CAUTION: Driveshaft bolt @ has left-hand thread.
Secondary drive bevel gear nut : 80 -
Install the washer @ on the gearshift cam.
NOTE: When replacing the gearshift cam stopper LOCK SUPER After 13338 /1322 the bolt, tightening 0, apply THREAD cam to the thread of bolt.
make sure that the gearshift
stopper moves properly. (For U.S.A. model) 99000-32020 99000-32110 : THREAD : THREAD LOCK SUPER LOCK SUPER 1333B 1322 (For the other models)
ENGINE 3-5n
Check the neutral position. install the gearshift cam stopper plate gearshift cam pins holes 0,. @ after aligning the @ with the gearshift cam stopper plate
Install
the gearshift 0
pawls
into
the cam driven
gear. The
large shoulder illustration. Apply THREAD
must face to the outside as shown in the LOCK SUPER 1333B/1322 to the
bolt @, nuts @ and screws 8. (For U.S.A. 99000-32020 99000-32110

l
model) : THREAD : THREAD LOCK SUPER LOCK SUPER 1333B 1322
Hook the gearshift cam stopper spring.
Install the gearshift shaft return spring properly.
install the gearshift shaft. Match the center teeth of the gear on the gearshift shaft with the center teeth on the cam driven gear as shown.
NOTE: When replacing quantity the gearshift LOCK arm stopper SUPER 0, apply a small of THREAD 1303 to its threaded
part and tighten it to the specified torque. 99000-32030 : THREAD LOCK SUPER 1303 r ,:L
Tightening torque Gearshift arm stopper : 15 - 23 N-m (1.5 - 2.3 kg-m, 11.0 -
16.5 lb-ft)
3-51 ENGINE
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Install the oil pump to the crankcase. Apply THREAD LOCK SUPER 1333B/1322 to the oil pump securing bolts.
Oil pump bolt Tightening torque :9 13 N-m (0.9 - 1.3 kg-m, 6.5 - 9.5 lb-ft)
(For U.S.A. model) 99000-32020 99000-32110

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: THREAD : THREAD
1333B 1322
Install the thrust washer onto the crankshaft.
NOTE: The chamfer side of thrust washer @ faces crankcase side.
Align the punch mark @ on the crankshaft mark @ on the camshaft drive sprocket.
with the punch
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Install the cam chain and cam chain guide. Tighten the cam chain guide set bolt.
Cam chain guide set bolt Tightening torque : 8 12 N-m (0.8 - 1.2 kg-m, 6.0 - 8.5 lb-ft)
Tighten
the primary drive gear bolt to the specified torque. : Rotor holder torque : 80 - 110 N-m (8.0 - 11 .O kg-m, 58.0 - 79.5 lb-ft)
NOTE: This bolt has left-hand thread.
Install the spacer and washer onto the countershaft.
Apply spacer.
engine
oil to the primary
driven
gear bearing and
Engage the oil pump gear. Install shaft. the primary
drive chain onto the oil pump drive
driven gear assembly onto the counter-
Engage the oil pump drive chain onto the oil pump driven gear and fix the oil pump driven gear with circlip.
09900-06107
: Snap ring pliers
Install the thrust washer onto the countershaft.
NOTE: The groove of thrust washer faces outside.
3-53
ENGINE
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Install the clutch sleeve hub onto the countershaft. Install the back torque limiter (clutch cam No. 2 @ and clutch cam No. 1 @ ) onto the clutch sleeve hub.
NOTE: The chamfer side @ of clutch cam No. 1 faces clutch cam No. 2. -
Tighten
the clutch sleeve hub nut to the specified torque by
using the special tool. Clutch sleeve hub nut Tightening torque : 50 - 70 N-m (5.0 - 7.0 kg-m, 36.0 - 50.5 lb-ft) 09920-50710 : Clutch sleeve hub holder
Install the clutch push rods into the countershaft long push rod touches clutch push piece. Install the clutch
so that the
push piece, bearing and thrust washer in
that order. Apply engine oil to the bearing. Install the wave washer seat 0, plate No. 2 @ (thicker NOTE: Install the clutch drive plate and driven plate one by one into the clutch sleeve hub in the prescribed order, drive plate No. 2 first. wave washer @ and drive plate as shown in the figure.)
@ @ @
Wave washer seat Wave washer Drive plate No. 2
Install
the
pressure
plate
and
tighten
the
clutch
spring
mounting NOTE: Tighten manner, tightness.
bolts.
the clutch tightening
spring mounting
bolts
in the criss-cross
them by degrees until they attain a uniform
Clutch spring mounting Tightening torque : 11 -
bolt 13 N.m 1.3 kg-m, 8.0 - 9.5 lb-ft)
(1.1 l
Set A is used for clutch sleeve hub side. Set B is used for back torque limiter side. A : bolt L: 40 mm (1.6 in) Spring L: 25.85 B : bolt L: mm (1.02 in) (0.95 in) (1.4 in) (0.96 in) (0.95 in) Spacer L: 24.1 mm 35 mm Spring L: 24.5 mm Spacer L: 24.1 mm
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Fit the new clutch cover gasket and dowel pins. Install the clutch cover.
NOTE: Fit the new gaskets @ to thecorrect CAUTION: Use a new gasket to prevent oil leakage. positions as shown in Fig.
Apply
engine
oil
lightly
to the gasket of the new filter it by hand until you feel that
before installation. Install the new filter turning the filter gasket contacts the mounting it 2 turns using the oil filter wrench. 09915-40611 NOTE: To properly tighten the filter, use the special tool. Never tighten the filter by hand. : Oil filter wrench surface. Then tighten
3-55 ENGINE
Install
the front
and rear cam chain tensioners
and chain
guides on each cylinder. Chain tensioner Tightening mounting : 8 (0.8 bolt 12 N-m 1.2 kg-m, 6.0 - 8.5 lb-ft)
torque
Compress body.
the chain
tensioner
spring by releasing ratchet. ratchet and chain tensioner
Insert the special tool between
09918-53810
: Tensioier
locking tool
Fit the dowel cylinder.
pins and new cylinder
head gaskets to each
CAUTION: Use a new gasket to prevent gas leakage.

l
Assemble cylinder
each cylinder
head and cylinder,
and tighten
the
head nuts and bolts to the specified torque. torque 12 N-m 11 N-m (0.8 - 1.2 kg-m, 6.0 - 8.5 lb-ft)
Tightening Cylinder Cylinder
head nuts : 8 head bolts : 9 -
(0.9 - 1.1 kg-m, 6.5 - 8.0 lb-ft)
Install the piston rings in the order of oil ring, 2nd ring and top ring. Top ring and 2nd (middle) ring differ in the shape of the whereas
TOP
ring face, and the face of top ring is chrome-plated than that of the top one.
that of 2nd ring is not. The color of 2nd ring appears darker
2nd
ENGINE 3-56
Top and 2nd (middle) them to the piston.
rings have a letter R marked on the
side. Be sure to bring the marked side to top when fitting
The first member After placing designations,
to go into the ring groove is spacer the two side rails 0.
0. Side
the spacer, fit top and bottom,
are not applied to the spacer
and side rails: you can position each either way.
Position located.
the gaps of the three rings as shown. Before insertcheck that the gaps are so
0
EX
2nd ring Lower side
ing each piston into the cylinder,
1 *Top IN
ring
. spacer
Rub a small quantity piston pin.
of SUZUKI
MOLY
PASTE
onto the
99000-25140
: SUZUKI
MOLY
PASTE base to prevent the piston
Place a clean rag over the cylinder pin circlips from dropping head to exhaust side.
into the crankcase.
When fitting the piston, turn the triangle mark on the piston Fit the piston pin circlips with long-nose pliers. CAUTION: Use new piston pin circlip to prevent circlip failure which will occur with a bent one.
l l
Apply engine oil to the sliding surface of the piston. Fit the dowel pins @ and new gaskets to the crankcase.
CAUTION: Use a new gasket to prevent oil leakage.
3-57 ENGINE
Hold
each piston
ring with
properly
position,
and insert
each piston into the respective cylinders.

l
Tighten the water hose clamp screws.
NOTE: When mounting @ cam drive chain rota ted. There is a holder inserted properly.
l
the cylinders, sprocket
keep the camshaft
drive chains is -
taut. The camshaft drive chain must not be caught between and crankcase when crankshaft
for the bottom
end of the cam chain guide the cam chain guide is
cast in the crankcase.
Be sure that
(Refer to page 3-59.) head bolts diagonally to the specified
Tighten torque.
the cylinder
Cylinder Tightening
head bolts torque : 35 - 40 N-m (3.5 - 4.0 kg-m, 25.5 - 29.0 lb-ft)
CAMSHAFT TIMING
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of No. 1 engine) with the box wrench drive chain on the magneto rotor with the center
Turn the crankshaft and align T line of generator pulled upward. 0
counterclockwise
@ I
cover hole keeping the camshaft
CAUTION: If crankshaft is turned without drawing the camshaft drive chain upward, the chain will be caught between crankcase and cam chain drive sprocket. NOTE: Apply grease on the cam sprocket locating pin and install the pin in to the camshaft. No. 1 (REAR)
l
ENGINE
Engage the chain on the cam sprocket with the locating pin hole @ at the one o clock position.
NOTE: Do not rotate sprocket installing case.

l
the magneto into
rotor
while doing this. When the turn the sprocket. When pay attention
is not positioned the camshaft
correctly,
the cam sprocket,
not to dislodge the locating pin or it may fall into the crankAlign the mark @ on the camshaft so it is parallel with the head.
surface of the cylinder NOTE:
Arrow mark is located to forward.
ENGINE 3-58
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Fit the lock washer so that it is covering the locating pin. Apply THREAD LOCK SUPER 1303 to the bolts and tighten them.
Tightening
torque
: 14 (1.4 -
16 N-m 1.6 kg-m, 10.0 - 11.5 lb-ft) LOCK SUPER 1303 to lock the bolts.
99000-32030
: THREAD
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Bend up the washer tongue positively Remove the cam chain tensioner
locking tools.
Camshaft -
NOTE: Click sound is heard when the cam chain tensioner is released.
Pin
Apply
SUZUKI
MOLY
PASTE to the camshaft journals and
cam faces. 99000-25140 : SUZUKI MOLY PASTE
No. 2 (FRONT)
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ENGINE engage the chain on the cam sprocket with
At this position,
the locating pin hole at the nine half o clock position. NOTE: Do not rotate sprocket installing case.
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the magneto into
rotor
while doing this. When the turn the sprocket. When pay attention
is not positioned the camshaft
correctly,
the cam sprocket,
not to dislodge the locating pin or it may fall into the crank-
Other engine.
procedures
are the same manner
of No.
1 (REAR)
3-59 ENGINE
CAM SHAFT
l
TIMING so that the No. 1 (REAR) engine posiat T.D.C.
Turn the crankshaft tion is positioned
CAMSHAFT Turn
TIMING so that the rear at T.D.C.
the crankshaft
engine is positioned
Engraved
line mark Engraved line mark
FRONT
LA Aligning /
mark on cranksh Iaft
Aligning
ma;k on the drive sprocket
ENGINE 3-60
Apply shafts. After
SUZUKI
MOLY
PASTE
to the rocker
arms and
inserting the shafts, tighten the shafts. torque : 25 - 30 N-m (2.5 - 3.0 kg-m, 18.0 - 21.5 lb-ft)
Tightening
CAUTION: Do not forget the wave washer. Use a new gasket on the rocker leakage. Thoroughly wipe off oil from the mating surfaces of cylinhead side. arm shaft to prevent oil
der head and cover. Fit the two dowel pins to the cylinder Uniformly apply SUZUKI BOND head surface. (For U.S.A. model) 99104-31160 99000-31160 NOTE: Do not apply SUZUKI cap. NOTE: When tightening the cylinder head cover bolts, the piston must be at top dead center on the compression stroke. NOTE: Do not forget the plate @ on No. 1 (rear) cylinder head cover.
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NO. 1216 to the cylinder
: SUZUKI : SUZUKI
BOND BOND
NO. 1216 NO. 1216
BOND
NO.
1216 to the camshaft end
Lightly tighten the cylinder then if everything
head cover bolts diagonally, tighten securely
and a
is satisfactory,
with
torque wrench to the specified torque. Tightening torque 1 .l kg-m, 6.5 - 8.0 lb-ft) 18.0 lb-ft)
6 mm : 9 - 11 N-m (0.9 -
8 mm : 21 - 25 N-m (2.1 - 2.5 kg-m, 15.0 -
3-61
ENGINE
LOCATION
OF CYLINDER
HEAD
BOLT
Front
cylinder
Rear cylinder
L:165
L:155
L:165 L: L:40
L:40
0
c
L: 165
L: 55
L:155
L:i65
L: Length Unit: mm
LOCATION Front cylinder L:20 head cover
OF CYLINDER
HEAD
COVER
BOLT head cover
Rear cylinder
L:235 L:55 %@ L
%@
Before apply thread
installing Bond No. of cylinder
the stud bolt 1216 to the head cover side. to the
: Length
Unit
: mm
%@
Apply thread
Bond No. 1215 of bolt.
ENGINE 3-62
VALVE CLEARANCE
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Check and adjust procedures.)
the valve clearance.
(Refer to page 2-5 for
INTAKE PIPE
CAUTION: When replacing the intake pipe, use a new O-ring to prevent sucking air from the joint.
l
Coat the O-ring with
grease.
VALVE INSPECTION CAP AND CAM TIMING INSPECTION CAP

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Before
installing
the valve
inspection
caps and cam timing grease.
inspection CAUTION:
cap, coat the respective
O-rings with
Replace the respective O-rings with new ones.
CONTENTS
SHAFT DRIVE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4- 1 SECONDARY BEVEL GEARS CONSTRUCTION REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY INSPECTION REASSEMBLY SECONDARY -- - - - 8 - - -- - - - . - - -4- 2 -
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4_ 3
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4- 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4- 4 GEARS SHIM ADJUSTMENT..................44

A -r
RdPKI dCU I . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..A -rYrm,\LmI
TOOTH CONTACT
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4- 6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4- 7
FINAL ASSEMBLY AND REMOUNTING . . . . . . . ...*. . . . . . ..*. . ..4_ 7 REASSEMBLY INFORMATION
FINAL BEVEL GEARS CONSTRUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4_ 6 FINAL GEAR CASE BREATHER CIRCUIT . . .., . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..4_ g AIR AND GEAR OIL FLOW IN FINAL GEAR CASE BREATHER CIRCUIT . . . . . ..*............................... REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY lNSPECTlON REASSEMBLY .,..........................,.... 4_ g 4-10
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-16
FINAL GEAR SHIM ADJUSTMENT
FINAL GEAR BEARING CASE SHIM CLEARANCE.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-16 BACKLASH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-16
TOOTH CONTACT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-16 FINAL ASSEMBL Y A ND REMOUNTING - - -- - . - - -- - - . - - - - - - - -- . 4-19 1 -1 REASSEM_BLY iNFORM_ATiON . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4+7
4-1 SHAFT
DRIVE
SHAFT DRIVE
SHAFT
DRIVE
4-2
SECONDARY BEVEL GEARS CONSTRUCTION

($ @ @ 8 @ 8 8 Bush Secondary Circlip ;;y rln Bolts giy rln ;iynsg (5 kinds) rln @ Oil seal housing @ Oil seal @ @ Bearing retainer Bolts bevel gear set (5 kinds) ;og reduction gear
@ Secondary
Tiahtenina w Item _ @ (iD
toraue
.
N.m 18-28 18-28 1 90 120
kg-m 1 .8 - 2.8 1 .8 - 2.8 1 9.0 12.0
lb-ft 13.0 - 20.0 13.0 - 20.0 165.0 -87.0
1 8
4-3 SHAFT DRIVE
rnF..l\\,A
l3CMUVAL
A .I_ HIYIJ
-ICI A mer..mm Ul3A33tMDLY
.I
SECONDARY
l l
DRIVE
BEVEL
GEAR
Remove the engine. (See page 3-3.) Remove the secondary drive bevel gear assembly. (See page 3-16.) Compress the damper spring with a vice, and remove the
circlip with the special tool. 09900-06107

l
: Snap
ring pliers
Remove the cam dog @ and damper spring 0.
SECONDARY
l
DRIVEN
BEVEL
GEAR
Remove the secondary driven bevel gear assembly. (See page 3-l 5.) Remove the bearing retainer with the special tool.
Remove the oil seal 0,
oil seal housing @ and O-ring 0.
CAUTION: The removed oil seal and O-ring should be replaced with new ones.
INSPECTION
Inspect the removed parts for the following abnormalities. for excessive wear to maintain proper * The drive and driven bevel gears must be inspected thoroughly or damage. It is important that both gears be in good condition tooth contact. * Abnormal noise of bearings * Bearing damage or wear.
SHAFT
DRIVE
4-4
REASSEMBLY
Reassemble the secondary steps: NOTE: Before reassembly, thoroughly _
l
bevel gears in the reverse order of disassembly and also carry out the following
clean all parts in cleaning solvent.
Apply grease to the lip of oil seal and O-ring. model)

.
(For U.S.A.
nnnnn )cn3tl YYUUU-LcJU3U
. JLlNl3rL
CI
,7I
IV,
Cl
IL)CD
PDCACC
Lr\3L
(For the other models) 99000-25010 CAUTION: Always use a new oil seal and O-ring. : SUZUKI SUPER GREASE A
0 Tighten the bearing retainer to the specified torque. Tightening torque : 90 (9.0 09921-21820 120 N-m 12.0 kg-m, 65.0 - 87.0 lb-ft)
: Bearing retainer wrench
SECONDARY GEARS SHIM ADJUSTMENT BACi(ip-eii

l
Install the secondary drive bevel gear assembly and removed shims, and tighten the three bolts @ to the specified torque.
Tightening
torque
: 18 - 28 N-m (1.8 - 2.8 kg-m, 13.0 - 20.0 lb-ft)
4-5 SHAFT
DRIVE
Install the secondary driven bevel gear assembly rnn~~ri .2,11111.#, chime 2nd tinhtnn 0 CII &I.. hnltc IL1 =/ tn thn L LI. II, ll.. C the twn LJ torque.
and recnerifid .yY,U
NOTE: Do not install point. correct.

l
the O-ring on the driven gear housing at this are
O-ring is installed after backlash and tooth contact
Hold
the bearing with
the special tool or secondary
bevel
gear case. 09921-21810 Tightening : Bearing holder torque : 18 - 28 N-m (1.8 - 2.8 kg-m, 13.0 - 20.0 lb-ft)
l
instaii
the backiash
measuring
tooi
on
the
drive
bevei
gear
cam dog, and set-up a dial gauge as shown in the illustration. 09924-34510 I
3econaary
~___~__I_~._.
: Backlash measuring tool (27 - 50 mm) I

gear
~~__.. ,___,.,__L
acwasn
0.05 - 0.32 mm (0.002 - 0.013 in)
I I
Adjust the dial gauge so that it touches the backlash measuring tool arm at the mark; hold the driven bevel gear securely, and turn the drive bevel gear in each direction, total backlash on the dial gauge. If the backlash be changed correct. Refer to the right chart for appropriate changes. is not within specification, should the shims must until and the backlash be re-checked reading the
0.05 (0.002
Backlash
Under 0.05 (0.002 mm in)
Shim adjustment
increase shim thickness Correct Decrease shim thickness
0.32 mm 0.013 in) mm in)
Over
0.32 (0.013
List of shims @ (Refer to page 4-7)
NOTE: When changing the shims, measure the thickness of old shims. Using the thickness of the old shims as a guide, adjust the backlash by referring to the right chart.
Part No. 24945 - 05AOO - OAO

1 24945 24945 e*fi*24945
Shim thickness 0.30 mm

1 0.35 0.40
^ r^
- 05AOO - 05AOO
^_1^^
- OBO
- OCO ^_,.
mm mm
L4Y45
- USHUU - uuu
u.3u mm
0.60 mm
- 05AOO
- OEO
SHAFT DRIVE
4-6
TOOTH
After _1L.z8
CONTACT
hr;nn;nn y,,,y IIII thn l.IIb hs&lrach UU~I.I.JII within lL,,1,, cnar;firat;nn ~~~L,,,lLl,, h\/ uy rhzmninn y y
$23 INCORRECT
(Contact
at tooth
top)
the secondary driven bevel gear shims, it will be necessary to check tooth contact. Remove the drive bevel gear assembly Clean and degrease the secondary apply teeth. Reinstall correct Rotate Remove paste. the secondary drive bevel gear assembly, with shim, onto the secondary the secondary the secondary the tooth driven drive gear housing. in both
( &
from
the crankcase. and
drive bevel gear teeth,
a coating
of machinist s
layout
dye or paste to several
bevel gear several turns
CORRECT
directions. bevel gear from the crankcase, pattern made in the dye or and observe contact
If tooth sembly If tooth

secondarv L___..--_,
contact contact
drive -.--_
is found 3-45). is found

hwel -__-.
to be correct, to be incorrect,
go to the Final
As-
(See page
the shims of the ,

ririwn -..-_.. hpvol . ~PZW W.,_ 3.
near J__. a.nr_l spc.n.n&rv
must be changed, correct. CAUTION backlash tooth :
tooth
contact
should
be re-checked
until
After the tooth contact Refer to the backlash contact
adjustment
has been performed, and readjust
the until when gears

L
must be re-checked, and backlash
because
it may have changed. the specificabevel
check sub-section,
are both within
tions. If you can not maintain the correct tooth contact adjusting should backlash, be replaced. both the drive and driven
Tooth contact Contact at tooth top 0 Contact root 0 at tooth
Shim adjustment Decrease thickness of shims @ or (@ Increase thickness of shims @ or @
List of shim @ Part No. 24945 q--rL4Y45
List of shims @j Shim thickness (

j
Part No. 24935 38AOO - 030 9oJxnn n3c
Shim thickness 0.30 mm nTz,r;-,
- 05AOO - OAO fiFAT\P. nlTn

- USHUU ulsu
0.30 mm
n CIr __ ~_ u.x mm
4-7 SHAFT DRIVE
FINAL ASSEMBLY AND REMOUNTING

l
See pages 3-45, 3-48 and 3-49.
REASSEMBLY INFORMATION
List of shims @ List of shims @

thirCn-
124945-05AOO-OEO
I0.60mm
lk!!ibJ ti
_.I.
24935-38AOO-050 24935-38AOO-060
10.50mm 10.60mm 18-28 N.m
Tightening torque
SHAFT DRIVE
4-8
FINAL BEVEL GEARS CONSTRUCTION

Tightening torque
I ii
1 90-110
/9.0-11.0/65.0-79.5
A u @ @ @ @ @ @ 8
A:, _^Î II SC:al Bolts Final O-ring Bearing Bearing Shims zhims crews (4 kinds) (8 kinds) plate gear bearing case
/CA rn_.~ . u aearlng 0 @ @ @ @ @ 0 @ Oil seal Final O-ring Oil filler Gasket Oil drain Stud
,O retainer piate A @$ Lock washer @ @ @ @ @ plug @ @ Nuts Pilot plate plug Shims Final Bearing Oil seal bearing retainer (5 kinds) bevel gear set stopper (2 kinds) 8 @ @ @ Bearing w @ @
Bearing retainer G-ring Final Circlip drive coupling
Needle bearing gear case
@$ Oil seal Kher SfZing Propeller Propeller shaft shaft coupling
bolts
4-9 SHAFT DRIVE
FINAL GEAR CASE BREATHER CIRCUIT

AIR AND GEAR OIL FLOW IN FINAL GEAR CASE BREATHER CIRCUIT
BREATHER Final through CIRCUIT circuit (passage) consists case. Air/oil mixed of the final gas flows gear bearing routes. gear case breather the following
gear case and final
Final
gear
ca!
Final gear bearing case
AIR PASSAGE When flow

l
the air pressure in the following flows from hole
in the final @
gear case becomes
higher
than
atmospheric 0
pressure,
both 0
air and oil
passages. to chamber hole e. @ and passes through the hole and chamber to the atmos-
Air
phere through OIL PASSAGE When the final
the breather
gear case pressure flow
rises abruptly has traveled 0
or when into hole 0,
the gear case oil level changes during @ goes into chamber
cornering,
the gear oil may sometime ed from the air. through however,
out into the air passage. @, where the oil is separathole E,.
In this case, the gear oil which The air flows The gear oil, port CG: . the hole flows
and chamber
and goes out through and returns
the breather
through
the passage 0
to the gear case from
gear oil return
SHAFT DRIVE 4-10
REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY

FINAL
l
GEAR
CASE pan under the final gear case and remove the
Place an oil
drain plug to drain out gear oil.

l
Remove the rear wheel.
(See page 8-26.)
Remove
the final
gear case from
the swingarm mounting nut.
by removing
the three nuts and shock absorber
PROPELLER
l
SHAFT
Remove the oil seal.
CAUTION: The removed oil seal should be replaced with a new one. Remove propeller the circlip with the special tool and take off the
shaft and spring.
09900-06108
DRIVEN
l
: Snap ring pliers

BEVEL GEAR gear bearing case bolts.
Remove the final
To
remove
the final
gear bearing
case from
the final
gear
case, use two 5 mm screws.
4-11 SHAFT DRIVE
Remove the oil seal from the final gear bearing case with the special tool.
09913-50121 CAUTION:
: Oil seal remover
The removed oil seal should be replaced with a new one. -
Remove
the bearing plate along with the bearing by using
the special tools. 09924-74570 09924-74510 09924-74520 : Final driven gear bearing installer and remover @ : Handle @ : Oil seal installer and remover 0
l l
Remove the final driven bevel gear from the final gear case. Remove the shims which are located at both sides of final driven bevel gear.
DRIVE
l
BEVEL
GEAR
Loosen the bearing retainer with the special tool. : Final drive gear bearing retainer wrench
09924-62410
Remove the drive bevel gear assembly and shims.
SHAFT DRIVE 4-12
Remove the drive bevel gear nut with the special tools and remove the coupling and bearing retainer.
09924-62420 09924-64510 @ Nut @ Washer @ Coupling

l
: 22 mm long socket wrench : Final drive gear coupling holder @ Bearing retainer @ Bearing @ Drive bevel gear the bearing @ from the drive bevel gear with the
Remove
bearing remover. 09941-84510 NOTE: The removed bearing 6) should be replaced with a new one. : Bearing race remover
Remove the oil seal @ and O-ring 0. :
CAUTION ones.
The removed oil seal and O-ring should be replaced with new
Remove the bearing retainer by removing the three screws.
Remove the needle roller bearing and oil seal from the final case with the special tools.
09941-64510 09930-30102 CAUTION ones. :
. Bearing and oil seal remover : Sliding shaft
The removed bearing and oil seal should be replaced with new
4-13 SHAFT DRIVE
Remove
the needle roller
bearing of drive bevel gear side
with the special tools. 09930-30102 09923-73210 CAUTION: The removed bearing should be replaced with a new one. : Sliding shaft : Bearing remover
INSPECTION
Inspect the removed parts for the following abnormalities. for excessive wear to maintain proper * The drive and driven bevel gears must be inspected thoroughly or damage. It is important that both gears be in good condition tooth contact. * Abnormal * noise of bearings Bearing damage or wear
REASSEMBLY
Reassemble the final bevel gears in the reverse order of disassembly, and also carry out the following NOTE: Before reassembly, DRIVE
l
steps:
thoroughly
clean all parts in cleaning
solvent.
BEVEL
GEAR 0 to the drive bevel gear by using the -
install
the bearing
special tool.
l
Install the oil seal @ to the bearing retainer. : Bearing installer
09941-74910
Apply tighten tools.
THREAD it with
LOCK
SUPER
1303
to the nut
and
the specified
torque
by using the special
99000-32030
: THREAD
LOCK SUPER
1303
SHAFT
DRIVE
4-14
09924-62420 09924-64510 Tightening
: 22 mm long socket wrench : Final drive gear coupling holder torque : 90 (9.0 110 N-m 11 .O kg-m, 65.0 - 79.5 lb-ft) nut over into the notch in the drive
Bend the collar of the bevel gear shaft.
FINAL
l
GEAR
CASE AND
BEARING
CASE
Install tools.
the oil seal into the final gear case with the special
09924-74550 09924-74510 NOTE:
: Bearing installer : Handle
The lip of oil seal faces driven bevel gear side.
Install the needle roller bearing into the final gear case with the special tools.
09924-74510 09924-74550 NOTE:
: Handle : Bearing installer
The bearing case has a stamped must face inside.
mark
on its one end, which
Install the bearing retainer. 1303 torque.
Apply THREAD them
LOCK SUPER to the specified
to the screws and tighten
: THREAD torque
LOCK SUPER
1303
: 8 - 10 N-m (0.8 - 1.0 kg-m, 6.0 - 7.0 lb-ft)
Install the needle roller bearing for the final drive bevel into the final gear case with : Bearing installer the special tool.
gear
09913-75820
Install
the removed shims and drive bevel gear assembly to
the final case. NOTE: Do not install the O-ring at this point. backlash and tooth contact are correct. O-ring is installed after
Tighten
the bearing retainer to the specified torque with the -
special tool. 09924-62410 Tightening : Final drive gear bearing retainer wrench torque : 90 (9.0 120 N-m 12.0 kg-m, 65.0 - 87.0 lb-ft)
Install during gear.
the driven disassembly
bevel gear shims,
and
0,
removed
on the needle bearing and driven bevel
After
installing
the bearing plate into the final gear bearing
case, install the bearing with the special tools. 09924-74510 09924-74520 : Handle : Bearing installer
Install
a new oil seal into the final gear bearing case with
the special tools. 09924-74510 09924-74520

l
: Handle : Bearing installer
Apply grease to the lip of oil seal. model) : SUZUKI : SUZUKI SUPER SUPER GREASE GREASE A A
(For U.S.A. 99000-25030 99000-25010
SHAFT DRIVE 4-16
Place the plastigauge
on the final
driven
bevel gear shim.
09900-22302
l
: Plastigauge (Not available in U.S.A.) the bearing case bolts to the specified torque : 20 - 26 N-m (2.0 - 2.6 kg-m, 14.5 19.0 lb-ft) torque.
Tighten
Tightening
NOTE: Do not rotate in place. Do not install the bearing case O-ring at this point. O-ring is installed after backlash and tooth contact are correct. FINAL GEAR SHIM ADJUSTMENT is necessary the final driven bevel gear when plastigauge is
(See pages 4-16 to 4-18).
FINAL GEAR SHIM ADJUSTMENT

FINAL
l
GEAR
BEARING
CASE SHIM and bearing within
CLEARANCE with the compressed the shims
Remove
the final
gear bearing
case and measure the clearthe specification,
ance between plastigauge.
the shims If it is not
must be changed. Final gear bearing case shim clearance : 0.10 mm (0.004 39900-22302 in)
: Plastigauge (Not available in U.S.A.)
List of shims @ (Refer to page 4-21) Part No. 27327-34200 27327-34210 27327-34220 27327-34230 Shim thickness 0.35 mm 0.40 mm 0.50 mm 0.60 mm
BACKLASH
l
Install coupling,
the
backlash
measuring
tool
on the drive
bevel gear
and set-up a dial gauge as shown
09924-34510
: Backlash measuring tool (27 - 50 mm)
Final gear backlash : 0.03 - 0.64 mm (0.001 - 0.025 in)
4-17 SHAFT DRIVE
Adjust the dial gauge so that it touches the backlash measuring tool arm at the mark; hold the final driven bevel gear securely, and turn the final drive bevel gear coupling slightly in each direction, gauge. reading the total backlash on the dial
NOTE: If the backlash is not within specification, adjust the shim thickness as folio ws: final gear bearing case and final gear List of shims @ (Refer to page 4-21) Part No. 27326-34201 27326-34211 27326-3422 27326-3423 27326-34241 27326-3420 27326-34201-I 27326-34201-I I- 140 45 50 1 1 Shim thickness 1.05 mm 1.10 mm 1.20 mm 1.25 mm 1.35 mm 1.40 mm 1.45 mm 1.50 mm
Remove shims from
case, and measure total thickness. In order not to change the clearance between final driven bevel gear and bearing, thickness of shims. If backlash is too large: a) Install a thinner shim pack @$ between final driven bevel of shims @ between final driven bevel gear and final gear case. b) Increase thickness gear and bearing by an amount equal to decrease above. If backlash is too small: a) Install a thicker shim pack @I between final driven bevel of shims @ between final driven gear gear and final gear case. b) Decrease thickness and bearing by an amount equal to increase above. the total thickness of the shims installed after a change is made must equal the original total
List of shims @ (Refer to page 4-21) Part No. 27327-34200 27327-34210 27327-34220 1 EXAMPLE: @Final gear to case shims; 1.35 mm + 1.05 mm = 2.40 mm 27327-34230 1 Shim thickness 0.35 mm 0.40 mm 0.50 mm 0.60 mm 1
@ Final gear to bearing shims; 0.50 mm + 0.40 mm = 0.90 mm Original total measurement Backlash too large: (8 Final gear to case shims; 1.25 mm + 1 .I 0 mm = 2.35 mm @Final gear to bearing shims; 0.60 mm + 0.35 mm = 0.95 mm Total thickness = 3.30 mm = 3.30 mm Backlash too small: @Final @Final gear to case shims; 1.35 mm + 1.10 mm = 2.45 mm gear to bearing shims; 0.50 mm + 0.35 mm = 0.85 mm Total thickness = 3.30 mm
SHAFT DRIVE 4-18
TOOTH After CONTACT backlash adjustment is carried out, the tooth contact
($ INCORRECT (Contact at tooth top)
must be checked. Remove the 9 bolts from the final gear bearing case, and remove the case, using the two 5 mm screws (see page 4-10). Do not misplace the shims. Remove the final driven bevel gear. Clean and de-grease several teeth gear. Coat these teeth ferably of a light color. Re-install positioning Re-install the final driven bevel gear with so that they shims in place, are centered on
@
on the final driven bevel dye or paste, preI
with
machinist s
CORRECT
the coated teeth
the final drive bevel gear. the final gear bearing case and tighten the bolts to the specified torque. Final gear bearing case bolt Tightening torque : 20 - 26 N.m (2.0 - 2.6 kg-m, 14.5 Using a long socket wrench bevel gear coupling nut, several turns in each direction, teeth of the driven bevel gear. Remove the final gear bearing case and final driven bevel gear, and inspect the coated teeth of the driven bevel gear. The contact patch should be as shown at right: If the tooth contact pattern is correct, as shown in Fig. 0, as shown in Fig. 0, go to the Final Assembly sub-section. If the tooth contact pattern is incorrect, a thinner bearing and final gear case. If the tooth contact pattern is incorrect, a thicker bearing and final gear case. If the tooth the contact contact shim pattern must is incorrect be installed, for either reason, and the tooth coating the tooth appropriate pattern as shown in Fig. 0, shim is needed between the final drive bevel gear shim is needed between the final drive bevel gear 19.0 lb-ft) @ INCORRECT (Contact at tooth rootj
and handle on the final drive the final drive bevel gear while loading the final driven
rotate
bevel gear. This will provide a contact pattern on the coated
rechecked
by repeating
procedure above. NOTE: If it is necessary to adjust drive bevel gear bearing the procedure outlined the shim thickness between final to 1 and final gear case, the final gear according until the may Backlash Measurement both 27445 27445 -38AOO -38AOO-050 060 1 1 0.50 mm 0.60mm List of shims 0 (Refer to page 4-21)
backlash may change, and should be re-checked under sub-section. Both adjustments be needed
backlash and tooth contact are correct. CAUTION: Refer to page 4-21.
4-19 SHAFT DRIVE
FINAL ASSEMBLY AND REMOUNTING

After adjusting the backlash, tooth drive contact and clearance the final from between the final the bearing gear case. dye or paste from Hypoid gear oil. gear bearing case and Coat the O-rings with into the final gear to the final retainer. the gear teeth, the teeth with new O-rings bevel gear bearing drive case and the bearing, remove
gear bearing
case and final
bevel gear assembly
Clean off any machinist s and lubricate Install final Install case. grease. the final the drive
bevel gear assembly
Install apply
the final
gear bearing
case to the final LOCK torque.
gear case and to the 9
a small quantity
of THREAD
1342
bolts and tighten 99000-32050 Tightening
them to the specified LOCK 1342
: THREAD torque
: 20 - 26 N-m (2.0 - 2.6 kg-m, 14.5 19.0 lb-ft)
Apply
grease to the final
driven
bevel gear coupling.
(For U.S.A. model) 99000-25030 99000-25010 : SUZUKI : SUZUKI SUPER SUPER GREASE GREASE A A (For the other. models)
Apply propeller
Lithium
Base Molybdenum
grease (NLGI joint coupling.
# 2) to the
shaft splines and universal
SHAFT DRIVE 4-20
l l
Install the spring, propeller
shaft and circlip.
Install the bearing retainer stopper plate 0.
CAUTION: When installing the plate 0, align the lug @ of plate to the bearing retainer stopper groove. NOTE: There are two kinds of plate.
l
Install the new oil seal. Apply SUZUKI BOND NO. 1207B/NO. 1215 to the mating
surface of swingarm and final gear case. (For U.S.A. 99104-31140 99OOD-31110 model) : SUZUKI : SUZUKI BOND BOND NO. 1207B NO. 1215
Tighten
the three nuts @and
shock absorber mounting
nut
@ to the specified torque. Tightening torque @ : 35 - 45 N-m (3.5 - 4.5 kg-m, 25.5 - 32.5 lb-ft) @ : 22 - 35 N.m (2.2 - 3.5 kg-m, 16.0 - 25.5 lb-ft) NOTE: After remounting the final gear case, the following service is necessary. * Fill the final gear case with Hypoid gear oil. Specified capacity : 200 - 220 ml (6.8/7.0 - 7.4/7.7 US/Imp 02)
List of shims 0
Part No.
I ------
Shim thickness --1
127445-38AOO-030
I0.30mm
List of shims @
127326-34231 27326-34241 27326-34201-140 27326-34201-145 27326-34201-150
1 1.25 mm 1.35 mm 1 1.40 mm 1 1.45 mm / 1.50 mm
Tightening
8-10 N.m n0 .l no._Lock Super 1303
Thread
List of shims TA ;
27327-34230
I
I
Shim clearance
I
CAUTION: After the tooth contact backlash tooth Refer to the backlash contact adjustment has been performed, and readjust the until when gears must be re-checked, and backlash because it may have changed. the specificabevel
check sub-section,
are both within
tions. If you can not maintain adjusting should backlash, be replaced.
the correct tooth contact and driveb
both the drivn
CONTENTS ~COOLING SYSTEM COOLING SOLuTjON
_
1
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-
. . . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5- 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5_ 3
RADIATOR AND WATER HOSES THERMOSTAT
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5- 6
WATER PUMP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5- 7 THERMO-S WITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . *5-10 !_NS!=EC?!G_N AND D!SA SSE_MBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5- !O FAN MOTOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . **5- 11 TEMPERATURE SWITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-71
5-l
COOLING
SYSTEM
COOLING SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION
The engine is cooled is a tube-and-fin head dissipation. The thermostat is of wax pellet type, through in the pellet. illustration, the thermostat is in the closed condition, so that water recirculates _ complete with a valve as the means of temperature-dependent The valve is actuated by the temperature-sensitive by coolant set in forced recirculation material, through jackets formed in the cylinder and head, and through the radiator. For the water pump, a high-capacity centrifugal pump is used. The radiator
type made of aluminum
which is characterized
by lightness in weight and good
control
over the flow of coolant
the radiator.
wax contained Referring through condition.

As
to the following
the route comprising
pump, engine, by-pass holes of the thermostat
and radiator in the regulated
the coolant
temperature
rises to 75C
and the thermostat
valve unseats, the normal coolant becomes completely
flow is
established.
At about 90C of coolant temperature,
the thermostat
open and most of
heat is released to the atmosphere through the radiator core.
Reservoir
tank
Thermostat
COOLING SYSTEM 5-2
COOLING SOLUTION
Water 50% 850 ml (1.811.5 850 ml (1.8/l US/imp. pt) pt)
At the time of manufacture, a 50 : 50 solution coolant. protection, This of distilled 50 : 50
the cooling system is filled with water and anti-freeze/summer will F). to temperatures below
.'E E F .= 2
Coolant
.5 US/Imp.
mixture
provide
excellent
heat ( 1C) F)
302,150 284.140 266.130 248.120 230.110 212 i100 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 (kg/cd)
and will protect above -31C this mixing
the cooling system from freezing (-24
at temperatures -31C (-24F),
If the motorcycle
is to be exposed
ratio should be increased up to
55% or 60% according to the Fig. 2. NOTE: The characteristics of different anti-freezes vary. Read the label to know the protection CAUTION: Do not put in more than 60% anti-freeze not mix different brands of anti-freeze. or less than 50%. Do you will have.
Density (%)
Fig. 1 Coolant density-boiling point curve.
IoF) ( c)
32 0 14 1 -10 -4 i -20
E
6
P
-22. -30 -40+ -40 -58. -50
P .: I;
ii
20
40
60
80
loo
Density (%)
Fig. 2 Coolant density-freezing point curve.
5-3 COOLING
SYSTEM
RADIATOR AND WATER HOSES
Radiator Radiator Radiator Radiator Coolant Radiator cap hose inlet hose reservoir overflow hose
Thermo-switch Temperature Cooling fan Fan motor switch
INSPECTION
Before inspect removing the radiator items. system
I
and draining for tightness

the
the cooling
solution,
the following
1.Test the cooling toctor 1c fnlln\n/c.

L.,LUI -1
IVII.
by using the radiator of about fall 1.2 kg/cm* this lo-
Rommm
.UIIIU
priiatnr ..UlUL..l c-21-1Ull rnnnnrt V-y, and .,ImllrL the _,I%.,
tester for
to
the
filler.
Give
a pressure should
(17 psi, 120 kP a ) and see if the system 10 seconds. interval, If the pressure it means that or part. relieving second system. 2. Test tester, the with found the there
holds this pressure during point in the
is a leaking
In such a case, inspect radiator tester as shown, Make tester for cap for and build sure that held
the entire
system and replace by using the
the leaking component radiator
pressure
in the following
manner:
Fit the cap to the by operating stops at of that build-up
up pressure slowly the pressure
tester. the
1.1 ? 0.15 kg/cm* pressure
(15.6 f 2.1 psi, 110 + 15 kPa) and that, standstill, the cap is capable Replace 10 seconds. the cap if it is
0 Radiator cap tester @ Radiator cap
at least
not to satisfy
either
of these two requirements. I
Radiator cap valve release pressure : 1.1 f 0.15 kg/cm* (15.6 f 2.1 psi, 110 + 15 kPa)
3. Road dirt bent down with 4. Any should water
or trash stuck or dented hose found Any
to the fins must be removed. for this cleaning. by straightening condition
Use Fins them
of compressed
air is recommended can be repaired in a cracked leakage from
the blade of a small screwdriver. or flattened section the connecting
must be replaced. be corrected
by proper
tightening,
REMOVAL
1. Drain the cooling 2. Remove solution by removing the drain plug (j). tank. the radiator hoses, radiator and reservoir
INSTALLATION
The radiator is to be installed After installing in the reverse order of the removal coolant: procedure. the radiator, be sure to add
refer to page 2-10 for refilling
information.
Align the white painted marks.
Cla
Align the white d marks.
Clip Cla& / \\ ,, / Clamp Clip Air bleeder plug rl / \ \ W \ \ _
Clamp
Thermoswitch
i v\._-\
Align the white painted mark on the radiator hose
btting
aIIow*-
Clamp
Tightening ITEM Air bleeder
torq ue N.m plug Thermo-switch IO-12 9-14 kg-m 1 .O0.9-1.4 1.2 lb-ft 7.0-8.5 6.5-10.0
COOLING SYSTEM 5-6
THERMOSTAT
REMOVAL
1. Drain the coolant. 2. Remove the secondary 3. Remove the gearshift 09900-06107 case cover. lever by removing the snap ring.
: Snap ring pliers
4. Disconnect 5. Disassemble be free.
the
radiator
hose and remove assembly.
the water will
pump then
cover assembly. the cover The thermostat
INSPECTION
Inspect Test the thermostat thermostat manner. between flange, as shown in the illustration. contained water by in a beaker, therthe on a
+n
pellet at the
for signs of cracking. bench for control action, in the
the
following Immerse
Pass a string as shown mostat beaker
the thermostat in the is in suspension.
in the water Heat the
illustration.
Note that
the immersed placing
0
D Thermostat @ String
on a stove
and observe
the rising temperature

thn
thermometer, RnzxA t.II\r CIIk,,llI inert I I_ thn tharmnmntnr IIIGL%.I , .aL \rrhan IIGII the bottom ture should level of the pan. This at which the between thermostat 73.5 C LII-Z thnrmnrtcat JL rlrnnc CI1cz1III L u1vp.l which valve begins L
reading,
is the temperato open,
be anywhere
(164.3 F) and 76.5 C
(169.7 F). Thermostat

l
vaive opening temperature the water
: 75.0 + 1.5C to and I

D Stove @ Thermometer
Keep on heating beyond
(167 f 2.7 F) to raise its temperature
90C (194F). the water reaches 90C (194 F), the thermostat
Just when valve should
have lifted
by at least 6.0 mm (0.24 in).
Thermostat
valve lift : Over 6.0 mm at 90C (Over 0.24 in at 194 F)
A thermostat ments replaced.
failing
to satisfy either temperature
of the two lift)
requiremust be
(start-to-open
and valve
WATER PUMP
Radiator Water Water O-ring Pin Impeller Impeller Mechanical Oil seal Bearing E-ring Gasket Thermostat
hose connector cover
pump pump
shaft seal
REMOVAL
1. Refer to page 5-6 for the water pump 2. Remove the water pump cover. 3. Remove the magneto of the impeller rotor. 4. Remov the three screws securing e water pump assembly. cover plug, then set the three openings the generator to the three screws by rotating removal procedures.
5. Set
one of
the
openings rotor.
to
an unused
femaie
screw
by
rotating
the generator
6. Drive out the water pump assembly by threading screw into the female screw.
a removed
INSPECTION AND DISASSEMBLY

WATER Turn the PUMP BEARING impeller and check the bearing play. is noted, If abnormal replace the
noise occurs or any sign of stickiness bearing with a new one.

l
Remove the E-ring.
Pull out the impeller shaft.
@ Bemove the impeiier from the impeiier shaft.
Remove the water pump bearing by using the special tools. : Sliding shaft : Bearing remover
09930-30102 09921-20200 CAUTION:
The removed bearing should be replaced with a new one.
MFCHANICAI m..__ ..,. mm._,._
SFAI .__,
Visually attention
inspect the mechanical seal for damage, with particular given to the sealing face. Replace the mechanical seal of leakage. Also replace the oil seal if seal with care to prevent damage
that shows indications necessary.

l
Gouge out the mechanical to the stuffing box.
5-9 COOLING SYSTEM
Gouge out the oil seal.
CAUTION: The removed mechanical seal or oil seal should be replaced with a new one.
REASSEMBLY
Reassemble of
l
and remount and
the water
pump
in the reverse order to the following
removal Install
disassembly.
Pay attention
points: the bearing using the special tool.
Apply
grease to the oil seal lip before model) : SUZUKI SUPER SijPEFi
installing.
(For U.S.A. 99000-25030
GREASE GREASE
A A -
(For the other models) 99000_250io : siizui(i
Press the oil seal into sleeve etc.
the stuffing
box using a suitable
size
Press the suitable
mechanical
seal
into
the
stuffing
box
using
size sleeve etc.
Replace pump.
O-rings
with
new ones when reassembling
the water
NOTE: Seat ring of the mechanical seal must be assembled with marked face of the ring toward the impeller.
COOLING SYSTEM 5-10
THERMO-SWITCH
The cooling fan, being located behind the radiator, motor motion. is automatically controlled of coolant is low, but it closes at about 105C is secured to the radiator by three bolts. The fan drive This switch remains open when the temperature of rising water temperature to set the fan in (221F) by the thermo-switch.
1
Fuse R R lg. switch Fan motor Thermoswitch R 7 B/W x B I I
Battery
INSPECTION
THERMO-SWITCH
l
Disconnect The
the thermo-switch from the radiator. must
lead wires and remove the for its temperaturevalue of 105C
thermo-switch
l
thermo-switch by testing
be checked
initiated (221F) Connect
closing action
at the specification
it at the bench as shown in the figure.
the switch to a circuit tester and raise the tempera-
ture of the oil in the pan, and read the column thermometer when the switch closes.
OFF ON NOTE:
ON
Approx. Approx.
105C 100C
(221F) (212F)
-+ OFF
Do not forget the O-ring. Tightening torque : 9.0 (0.9 14 N-m 1.4 kg-m, 6.5 - 10.0 lb-ft)
Thermo-switch
CAUTION: -I-..,,,. JpJciblal mm,.. ..hP... t......el,:.... +L... +L...,-.. r...:*..ls I an= . . . . . . . ulrr; Wllcill llclllUllll$j L,ltz L,,ci,111-Jvv,Lw,. cause damage if thermo-switch gets a sharp impact.
I& --.. IL ,,,ay
FAN MOTOR
Test the cooling fan drive motor for load current meter and an ammeter connected The voltmeter running is for making With volts to the motor. more than 5 amperes. If the fan motor with a new one. does not turn, replace the motor assembly sure that the battery with should electric with a voltapplies 12 motor fan not as shown in the illustration.
7 I A-Battery
the motor
at full speed, the ammeter
be indicating
TEMPERATURE SWITCH
REMOVAL
l
Remove the temperature
switch after disconnecting
the lead
wires in the headlight housing.
INSPECTION
The temperature initiated (243F) Connect closing switch must be checked for its temperatureaction at the specification value of 117C
by testing it at the bench as shown in the illustration. the switch to the pocket tester and raise the temperathermometer
ture of the oil in the pan, and read the column when the switch closes. 09900-25002 Temperature OFF ON : Pocket tester switch specification + ON Approx. Approx. 117C 110C
(243 F) (230 F)
-+ OFF
REASSEMBLY
NOTE: Do not forget the O-ring. Tightening Temperature torque switch : 10 15 N-m 11 .O lb-ft) (I .O - 1.5 kg-m, 7.0 CAUTION: Take special care when handling a sharp impact. Fill the specified coolant (See page 2-10). the temperature switch. It may cause damage if temperature switch gets
CONTENTS
FUEL SYSTEM FUEL COCK FUEL PUMP
CARBURETOR
.............................................................
6s 1 6- 2
.6- 3 .6_ 4 .6- 4 .6_ 6 6- 8 - 8 .6_ 9 - 9 .6_fO .6_11 .6_11 .6-Q .6-Q .6_13 .6_13 .6_14 .6_15 .6_17 .6_17 .6_18 ..6_18 .6_19
.................................................................
................................................................ .............................................................. CONSTRUCT/ON ................................
CARBURETOR
SPEC/F/CA T/ONS ..................................................... I.D. NO. LOCA T/ON ................................................... DIAPHRAGM SLOW AND PISTON OPERATION .....................6
SYSTEM
..................................................... SYSTEM...........................6
TRANSIENT MAIN
ENRICHMENT
SYSTEM
........................................................ .................................................. .....................................................
STARTER FLOAT
SYSTEM
SYSTEM
REMOVAL DISASSEMBL NEEDLE FLOAT
.............................................................. Y ........................................................ ................................... ...... .........................
VALVE INSPECTION HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT
REASSEMBLY BALANCING LUBRICATION
AND REMOUNTING CARBURETORS
... ......................... ......................... ......................... ......................... ......................... ........................ ...... .........................
.........
SYSTEM
.......................
O/L PRESSURE.
.............................
OlL FILTER .................................... OIL SUMP FILTER ........................ CHART
LUBRICATION
SYSTEM
6-1 FUEL AND
LUBRICATION
SYSTEM
FUEL SYSTEM
A vacuum operated fuel pump is used to supply fuel from the fuel tank to the carburetor. lower than the carburetor fuel bowl. In addition, conditions The pump is necessary as the fuel cock is mounted across rough terrain. the pump assures
an adequate supply of fuel to the engine under the steepest climbing
as well as while running
No. 2 carburetor
Fuel
Fuel pump
FUEL AND LUBRICATION
SYSTEM 6-2
FUEL COCK
A valve is provided With the valve ON at the top of the fuel cock (normal), lever and can switch over to OFF , ON and RES . the main passage opens. With the valve OFF , both holes close.
ON
position
RES
position
ON
WARNING: Gasoline is very explosive. Gaskets leakage. must Extreme care must be taken. with new ones to prevent fuel be replaced
INSPECTION AND CLEANING

If the fuel flow fuel strainer strainer with is dirty compressed with air. sediment power or rust, fuel will may result. not smoothly and loss in engine Clean the
6-3 FUEL AND
LUBRICATION
SYSTEM
FUEL PUMP
Vacuum vacuum pressure pulsations
is
from
the carburetor
intake
tract are used to operate
the pump diaphragm. the outlet
When to the
applied to the diaphragm,
fuel is drawn from the tank into the diaphragm chamber. As positive s back, pushing the fuel through
is applied,
the spring forces the diaphragm
carburetor. A series of check valves is used in the fuel flow route to allow the fuel to move in only one direction, through the pump body.
Fuel from
fuel
cock
Negat :ive
Fuel to carburetor
Positive
FUEL PUMP INSPECTION

In case of fuel leak at fuel pump or air leak into the fuel line, check the following * * Broken diaphragm of check valve replace the fuel pump assembly with a Loose screws on fuel pump * Malfunction items:
If any defect is found, new one.
FUEL
AND
LUBRICATION
SYSTEM
6-4
CARBURETOR
CARBURETOR CONSTRUCTION
No. 2 (FRO INT) CARBURETOR
( Syncronizing $ @ Throttle @ Throttle valve
cable
@ @ 8 spring @
Main jet Main Pilot jet holder jet plunger screw valve hose top cap valve spring
@ @ @ @
Jet needle Spacer E-ring Washer
stopper
plate
valve shaft return
@$ Starter Balance @$ Coasting
@$ Jet needle @$ Spring @ Piston @$ Needle
Needle
valve
0 @
Fuel hose Carburetor
valve jet
@$ Breather @ Seal ring @$ Piston
6-5 FUEL AND
LUBRICATION
SYSTEM
No.
1 (REAR)
CARBURETOR
@ Fuel hose @ Coasting @ @ @ 0 @ @ @ Drain Float Float Needle Filter Main jet valve stopper screw Needle valve @ Gasket pin valve screw
0 @ @ @ @ 0 $$
Pilot
jet screw valve stop screw valve valve plunger top cap shaft return spring
@ Breather @ Jet needle @ Spacer @ @ @ 0 @ E-ring Jet needle Washer Spring
hose stopper plate
Balance Throttle Throttle Throttle Pilot Starter
@I Throttle
screw
@$ Piston Needle
valve jet
@& Fartburetor
IS on valve spring
FUEL AND LUBRICATION SYSTEM 6-6
SPECIFICATIONS
CARBURETOR
ITEM Carburetor Bore SIX I.D. No. Idle r/min. Float height Main jet Main air jet Jet needle Needle jet Throttle Pilot jet By-pass Pilot outlet Valve seat Starter jet valve (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.1 (N.J.) (Th .V .) (P.J.) (8.P.) (P.0.) W.S.) (G.S.1 (P.S.)
I
CARBURETOR
SPECIFICATION E-02.04. 15,21,25,28,34 MIKUNI BDS36SS (No. 2) c t t in) 9.1 f 1 .O mm (0.36 f 0.04 in) #I20 t 5D49-3rd t c #40 0.8 mm x 3 PCS 1 .O mm t # 22.5 (PRE-SET) l-l/B turns back No.1 : (# 65). No.2: (I .2 mm) t 7 I Carburetor Bore size I.D. No.
SPECIFICATION ITEM type MIKUNI BS36SS (No. 1) 36 mm 45C20 1200 + 50 rlmin. E-33 MIKUNI BDS36SS (No. 2) t t t 9.1 + 1 .O mm (0.36 f 0.04 in) #/f?L?.i t
I
type
MIKUNI BS36SS (No. 1) 36 mm 45coo 1100f100r/min. 27.7fl.Omm I1 -09 20.04 # 132.5 1 .B mm 5FlOB-3rd
Idle rlmin. Float height Main jet Main air jet Jet needle Needle iet Throttle Pilot jet By-pass Pilot outlet Valve seat Starter jet valve (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.1 (N.J.) (Th.V.) (P.J.) (B.P.) (P.0.) (V.S.1 (G.S.) (P.S.) (P.A.J.)
27.7 * 1 .O mm (1.09 f 0.04 in) # 132.5 1.8 mm 5E73-1st
5D47-1
st
P-4 #115 #47.5 0.8 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 mm # 25 (PRE-SET) l-3/8 turns back No.1 : (# 70). No.2: (2.0 mm) 0.5 - 1 .O mm (0.02 - 0.04 in) 0.5 - 1 .O mm (0.02 - 0.04 in)
P-q
#125 #Y 0.8 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 -# 11,111
P-7 _
# 110 #YU 0.8 mm x 3PCS 1 n--11,111 I.
t
cl= L<
# 22.5 (PRE-SET) No. 1: (#65), No. 2: (1.2 mm) t

I
Pilot screw Pilot air jet Throttle
Pilot screw Pilot air jet Tlrr

I II,
(PRE-SE.1 r, I No. 1: (# 65). hln 7. , ,? mm) ,.. &. \L.U ~___( 0.5 - 1 .O mm (0.02 - 0.04 in) 0.5 - 1 .O mm (0.02 - 0.04 in)
1
(P.A.J.)
Throttle
cable play
cable play
Choke cable play t

L
Choke cable play
t
I
CARBURETOR
SPECIFICATION ITEM E-03 Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. Idle r/min. Float height Main jet Main air iet Jet needle Needle jet Throttle Pilot iet By-pass Pilot outlet Valve seat Starter iet valve (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.) (N.J.1 (Th .V .) 1P.J.) (B.P.) (P.0.) (V.S.1 (G.S.) 1200 type MIKUNI BS36SS (No. 36 mm 45ClO + 50 rlmin. in) MIKUNI BDSSBSS (No. 2) t t c 9.1 * 1 .O mm (0.36 * 0.04 in) # ir_ i ? t 5D47-1 p st
CARBURETOR
1)
27.7fl.Omm (1.09 * 0.04 # l3Z i
1.8 mm 5E72-1 st P-7 #I25 #Yi 0.8 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 mm #25
# 110 #YU 0.8 mm x 3 PCS 1.0 mm t #22.5
No. 2: (1.2 mm) Throttle cable play 0.5 - 1 .O mm (0.02 - 0.04 in) 0.5 - 1 .O mm (0.02 - 0.04 inl t t
Choke cable play
6-7 FUEL AND LUBRICATION
SYSTEM
CARBURETOR
SPECIFICATION ITEM Zarburetor Bore size I.D. No. Idle rlmin. Float height Main iet Main air jet Jet needle Needle jet Throttle PIlot jet Bypass Pilot outlet Valve seat Starter jet Pilot screw valve fM.J.1 (M.A.J.) (J.N.) (N.J.) (Th.V.) (P.J.) (B.P.1 (P.0.) (V.S.1 (G.S.) (P.S.) type MIKUNI BS36SS (No. 36 mm 4x40 1100f100r/min. 27.7fl.Omm (I .09 kO.04 in) E-01,16
CARBURETOR
I
Carburetor t t t
SPECIFICATION ITEM
I
U-woe
I
of E-22 MIKUNI BDS36SS (No. 2)
I)
MIKUNI fBDS36SS (No. 2)
type
MIKUNI BS36SS (No.
I)
9.1 + 1 .O mm (0.36 k 0.04 in) # 122.5 t 5D49-3rd t t #40 0.8 mm x 3PCS 1 .O mm t # 22.5 (PRESET) l-l /8 turns back Thrnttle Pilot jet Bypass I Pilot outlet Valve seat Starter jet valve
1 /
ni 135
1.8 mm 5Fl OS-3rd P-4 #I15 rry47.5 0.8 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 mm f 25 (PRESET) l-l /2 turns back
I I
fM.J.1 (M.A.J.) fJ.N.1 (N.J.) fTh.V.l fP.J.1 (B.P.) fP.0.) (V.S.) (G.S.) (P.S.) fP.A.J.1
k 122.5
t
5D49-3rd P-6
I
1 1 I
#I15
t
#40 0.8 mm x 3PCS I 1.0 mm t # 22.5 (PRESET) l-l/16 turns back) No. 1: (# 651, No. 2: (I .2 mm) t t I
j: 47.5
0.8 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 mm ti 25 (PRESET) 1 -l/8 turns back No. 1: (3-f 70). No. 2: (2.0 mm) 0.5 - 1 .O mm (0.02 - 0.04 in) 0.5 - 1 .O mm (0.02 - 0.04 in)
Pilot screw Pilot air jet Throttle
__::::_
CARBURETOR
ITEM 1 Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. 1 Idle rimin. tvpe +Sf=$$;N
cable play
Choke cable play
CARBURETOR
SPECIFICATION ITEM E-17 MIKUNI BS36SS (No. I) 36 mm 45070 1100 * 100 r/min. MIKUNI BDSBBSS (No. 2) t t t 9.1 i- 1 .O mm (0.36 f 0.04 in) # 122.5 t 5D49-3rd P-6 I + 1 I
MIKUNI BS36SS (No. I) 36 mm 45050
MIKUNI BDS36SS (No. 2) t t
Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. Idle rlmin. Float height Main jet Main air jet Jet needle
type
11100~100r/min.
27.7 f 1 .O mm (I .09 * 0.04 in) (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.) (N.J.) fTh.V.) (P.J.) (B.P.) fP.0.) (VS.) (G.S.) (P.S.) (P.A.J.)
I Needle iet I Throttle Pilot jet By pass Pilot outlet Valve seat Starter iet valve
(N.J.) fTh.V.) (P.J.) (B.P.) (P.0.) (VS.) 1G.S.)
/ 1
P-4 #I15 847.5 0.8 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm
I I
+ t
#40 0.8 mm x 3PCS 1.0 mm t #22.5
Needle jet Throttle Pilot iet By-pass Pilot outlet Valve seat Starter iet valve
1 j / /
/
#I35 1.8 mm 5Fl08-3rd P-4 #I15
# 47.5
0.8 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 mm #25 (PRESET) l-3/8 turns back No. 1: (# 70), No. 2: (2.0 mm) 0.5 - 1 .O mm (0.02 - 0.04 in) 0.5 - 1 .O mm (0.02 - 0.04 in)
I /
# 40
0.8 mm x 3PCS 1 .O mm t # 22.5 (PRESET) l-114 turns back No. 1: (# 65). No. 2: (I .2 mm) t t
I 1
j 1
1.5 mm #25
Pilot screw Pilot air jet Throttle cable play 0.5 - 1 .O mm (0.02 - 0.04 in) 0.5 - 1 .O mm (0.02 - 0.04 in) Throttle
t t
cable play
Choke cable play
Choke cable play
FUEL
AND
LUBRICATION
SYSTEM
6-8
I.D. NO. LOCATION

Each carburetor has I.D. Number 0 stamped on the carburetor body according to its specifications.
DIAPHRAGM AND PISTON OPERATION

The carburetor matically orifice Rising is a variable-venturi valve type, whose venturi moves according pressure cross section into area is increased pressure or decreased autoon the down@ through an by the piston @ provided negative @ which valve 0. the spring from @ force, increasing. causing the piston Thus, air velocity optimum valve @ to rise to increase the in the venturi ratio of fuel/air passage is kept mixture. to the negative present chamber
stream side of the venturi
@I. Negative
is admitted
the diaphragm
in the piston
pressure
overcomes
said area and thus prevent relatively constant
the air velocity
for improved
fuel atomization
and for securing
Negative
pressure
SYSTEM
SLOW SYSTEM
This system from (#I pilot float and #2) supplies chamber 0. fuel during engine rich with operation jet 0 with throttle valve @ closed or slight air coming pilot 8. 0. passage to pilot The remainder opened. pilot screw 0. The fuel air jets A part by @ is metered by pilot where it mixes with in through
This mixture, is discharged
fuel, then goes up through pilot
of the mixture
into the main bore out of by-pass ports out into the main bore through outlet
is then metered
screw @ and sprayed
TRANSIENT ENRICHMENT SYSTEM

This transient generate normal proper enrichment joining system is a device which the throttle upper keeps fuel/air mixture suddenly inlet ratio during constant in order not to For _ unstable operation, fuel/air combustion ratio. when grip is returned part of carburetor valve is suddenly The valve constant @ which air passage. by varying the fuel/air mixture ratio by controlhigh speed driving.
of the air from
side to pilot with
air passage obtains pressure generatcloses an
mixture
But if the throttle to a diaphragm. condition
closed, a large negative interlocks
ed on cylinder This
side is applied
the diaphragm
air passage, thus, the pressure flows ing air flow in the pilot circuit.
out to the pilot
is system to keep the combustion
Pilot jet
@q
Fuel/Air s Fuel
mixture
FUEL AND
LUBRICATION
SYSTEM
6-10
MAIN SYSTEM
As throttle Consequently Meanwhile, 0, in which valve @ is opened, in float then engine speed rises, and this increases negative @ is metered through by main jet 0, main air jet between @to pressure in the venturi @. the piston the fuel fuel it mixes with into the venturi valve @ moves upward. chamber and the metered fuel enters needle jet 0, and is fuel the air admitted passes through @, in which form an emulsion. @ and jet needle by the engine. which the emulsified
The emulsified discharged Mixture must flow
the clearance in needle jet 0;
needle jet
it meets main air stream being drawn the clearance position. through ultimately on throttle
proportioning
is accomplished
in large or small, depending
Throttle valve (Q
..&$:~~~~~$& ::::,
.:$$$:.:.:.. . . . . . . .,....:,:.:
:.:,B
..../....:.. ,...,
,:::;::I :.
::?::
,..,
Fing
jet
.-..
--e---_
w-w--
-_ __-
-_ o-
-_ 0
Air Fuel/Air mixture
\
Main
int m
6-11
FUEL AND
LUBRICATION
SYSTEM
STARTER SYSTEM
Pulling Starter up the starter shaft jet @ 0, fuel is drawn into the starter circuit from the float chamber 0. meters this fuel, which then flows into starter rich in fuel content, reaches starter plunger through a passage pipe @ and mixes with the air coming from the float chamber @ . The mixture, @ The and mixes two extending proper mixture bore. again with the air coming of fuel starting with
from main bore. successive mixings mixture for air are such that when the @ into the main is produced
fuel/air
is sprayed out through starter outlet
FLOAT SYSTEM
Floats @ and needle valve @ are associated with the same 0 move up and down, the 0, floats @ are up and 0. As the fuel mechanism, so that, as the floats
needle valve @ too moves likewise. When fuel level is up in float chamber needle valve this condition, @ remains pushed up against valve seat. Under @ go down and needle valve @ unseats itself needle valve @ admits and shuts off fuel altera practically constant fuel level inside the
cr) ( \ /-fj carwretor
no fuel enters the float chamber
level falls, floats In this manner, nately float chamber 0.
to admit fuel into the chamber 0. to maintain
eedle 0
valve
lump
FUEL AND LUBRICATION
SYSTEM 6-12
REMOVAL 0 Refer to page

l
3-3. No. 1 and No. 2 carburetors attached along with the
Remove
the
synchronizing CAUTION:
cable 0
to the carburetors.
Be sure to identify No. 2 carburetor,
each removed parts as to its location, so that each will be restored
and
lay the parts out in groups designated as No. original location during assembly.
1 carburetor, to the
No. 2 (FRONT) @ : Syncronizing cable @ : Syncronizing cable adjuster @$ : Throttle cable (No. 2 carb.) @ : Throttle cable adjuster (No. 2 carb.) 0 : Throttle cable (No. 1 carb.) @ : Throttle cable adjuster (No. 1 carb.) 8 ; TrottIe stop screw crew 0 : Fuel hose
NOTE: Do not turn the throttle CAUTION: Do not turn the screw 0 Once removing a throttle the two carburetors. of the No. 2 carburetor. cable or the synchronizing cable or a carburetor body, it is necessary to balance cable adjusters @I , @ and the synchronizing cable adjuster @I .
DISASSEMBLY
l
Disassemble
the carburetors
as shown
in the illustrations
on pages 6-4 and 5.
6-13
FUEL
AND LUBRICATION
SYSTEM
Check following * Pilot jet * Main jet * Main air jet * Pilot air jet
items for any damage or clogging. * Diaphragm * Gasket * Throttle valve shaft oil seals * Pilot outlet and by-pass holes hole * Fuel hose * Coasting valve jet
* Needle jet air bleeding * Float
* Needle valve mesh and O-ring
* Starter
NEEDLE VALVE INSPECTION

If foreign flow. limits, sticks, worn with matter is caught will between the valve seat and the needle, the gasoline similar continue will occur. flowing and cause it to overthe permissible if the chamber. it together needle Clean with
If the seat and needle are worn trouble will the gasoline chamber as shown compressed not flow
beyond
Conversely, gasoline. replace
into the float
the float available
and float in the air.
parts with
If the needle is chamber
illustration,
seat. Clean
the fuel
passage of the mixing
FLOAT HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT

To check the float float just in contact with height, invert the carburetor body, with the arm kept free, measure the height @ while float arm is
needle valve by using calipers.
Float height
No. 1
27.7 f 1 .O mm (1.09 f 0.04 in) . 9.1 f 1.0 mm (0.36 f 0.04 in)

I
No. 2
REAR CARBURETOR
09900-20102
: Vernier
calipers
FRONT CARBURETOR
Bend the tongue value.
as necessary to bring the height
@ to this
FUEL AND
LUBRICATION
SYSTEM
6-14
REASSEMBLY AND REMOUNTING

Reassemble Pay attention
l
and remount
the carburetors points:
in the reverse order
of disassembly Align
and remounting. to the following @ of the needle jet with the pin @ and
the groove
replace it.
Place the tongue properly.
of diaphragm
to the carburetor
body
When holes.
installing
the
coasting
valve
to the
body,
align
the
Set each throttle meets the foremost
valve
in such a way that @I.
its top end
by-pass
6-15 FUEL AND LUBRICATION SYSTEM
BALANCING CARBURETORS
No. 2 (FRONT)
: Synchronizing cable : Synchronizing cable adjuster : Throttle cable (No. 2 carb.) : Throttle cable adjuster (No. 2 carb.) : Throttle cable (No. 1 carb.) : Throttle cable adjuster (No. 1 carb.) : Throttle stop screw : Screw : Fuel hose
No. 1 (REAR)
CAUTION: Once removing the synchronizing @ , 0 or carburetors, carburetors. IN CASE @: As the first step, calibrate follows: 09913-13121 09913-13140 : Carburetor : Adapter for warminspection @ balancer the carburetor balancer gauge, as OF CHANGING THE SYNCHRONIZING CABLE cable @ or throttle cables it is necessary to balance the two
Start up the engine and run it in idling condition ing up. Stop the warm-up screw @ with gasket. Connect engine. Remove the vacuum for No. 2 carburetor
and install the adapter
one of the four rubber hoses of the balancer gauge stop screw @I.
to this adapter, and start up the engine, and keep it running at idle speed by turning throttle NOTE: The idle speed is different and 7.) among the countries. (See pages 6-6
FUEL
AND LUBRICATION SYSTEM 6-16
Turn
the air screw
@ of the gauge so that the vacuum hose will bring the steel ball line 0. the steel ball Turn stays steady the adapter
act@ in
ing on the tube of that the tube to the center After center nect making the next sure
that
at the
line, disconnect
the hose from
and conhas
hose to the adapter.
air screw to bring
the other
steel ball to the center
line. Now the balancer
been calibrated. Remove Connect the vacuum inspection with balancer screw @ for No. 1 carburegasket. gauge hose to their respec-
tor and install tive adapters.
the adapter
each calibrated
Warm up the engine, Under two screw this condition, level at the center carburetors 0 and turn
and keep it running see if the two line, as they should, if not,
at idle speed. to signify loosen that the stop
steel balls stay equally the lock nut level line by
are in balance:
the synchronizing to bring
adjuster
@I and the throttle
the steel balls to the center at idle speed.
keeping the engine running
IN CASE OF CHANGING As the 1500

l l
THE THROTTLE the carburetor
CABLE balancer
@, 0: gauge at the
first
step, calibrate cable.
r/min,
as the same manners
of the case of changing
synchronizing Temporarily Equalize by turning nuts. NOTE:
remove the No. 1 carburetor. the throttle cables inner length the adjusters @I ,O after
at the connector loosening the lock
Be careful not to twist the throttle Throttle carburetor 6-6 and 7.)
cables 0,
0.
cable adjuster @ can not be turned when the No. 1 is installed to the engine. among the countries. (See pages
The idle speed is different
SYSTEM
Install which turning Under
the No. 1 carburetor is calibrated the throttle this condition, level
and set the carburetor
balancer by
at 1500 r/min. and keep it running grip. see if the two line, cable as they adjuster if not, steel balls stay equally to signify the two loosen the lock nut and @ to adjust the throttle level line. should, at 1500 r/min
Warm up the engine,
at the center carburetors turn valve setting NOTE: When equalizing
are in balance:
the throttle
to bring the steel balls to the center
the throttle
cables inner length,
make sure -
that each throttle cable have enough play. IN CASE OF CHANGING When changing synchronizing carburetor, forming THE CARBURETORS it is necessary to adjust IN CASE to remove the the THE cables. So once removing OF CHANGING
the carburetors, cable and throttle necessary and
it becomes
the cables by perOF CHANGING
above two
steps (i.e. IN CASE CABLE CABLE).
SYNCHRONIZING THE THROTTLE CAUTION :
In this case first adjust the synchronizing
cable.
LUBRICATION SYSTEM
OIL PRESSURE
Check the oil level in the inspection pressure in the following Install Install figure. Warm up the engine as follows: Summer Winter After 10 min. at 2000 r/min. 20 min. at 2000 r/min. warming up operation, increase below: the engine speed to and read the oil pressure gauge. manner: bolt. shown in the 0. Remove the oil pressure inspection the oil pressure adapter the oil pressure window and check the oil
gauge in the position
3000 r/min,
The oil pump pressure is specified OIL PRESSURE SPECIFICATION
Above 350 kPa (3.5 kg/cm*, Below 650 kPa (6.5 kg/cm*, Oil temp. at 60C (140 F)
50 psi) 92 psi) at 3000 r/min
FUEL AND LUBRICATION SYSTEM 6-16
CAUTION: The recommended low-40 motor oil. : Oil pressure gauge : Oil pressure gauge (meter) : Oil pressure gauge adapter engine oil is, API classification SE or SF,
0991574510 09915-77330 09915-74530
NOTE: Engine oil must be warmed up to 60 C 1140 F) when checking the oil pressure. If the oil pressure is lower or higher than the specifications, oil
several causes may be considered. * Low oil pressure is usually leakage from * High tion the result of clogged oil filter, of these items. caused by a engine oil which installais the oil passage way, is usually damaged oil seal, a defec-
tive oil pump or a combination oil pressure of the oil filter too heavy a weight,
a clogged oil passage, improper or a combination of these items.
OIL FILTER
Refer to page 2-8 for installation procedures.
OIL SUMP FILTER

At the same time wash the oil screen sump filter cap. Check to be sure that the strainer is free from any sign of rupture
and wash the strainer
clean periodically. procedures.
Refer to page 3-46 for installation
6-19
FUEL AND
LUBRICATION
SYSTEM
LUBRICATION
SYSTEM
CHART ) EXHAUST ROCKER ARM SHAFT i_-
Epy
INTAKE
Ii
J:
ROCKER ARM
1 CAMSHAFT 1. JOURNAL ) 1
CAMSHAFT
R. JOURNAL
;;;I$ 1
CLUTCH
1_I
1. CRANK JOURNAL f
R. CRANK JOURNAL t
MAIN GALLERY
GEAR AND BEARINGS
/ DRIVESHAFT
rOlL
PANZ
elf7
FUEL
AND
LUBRICATION
SYSTEM
6-20
CONTENTS
CHARGING SYSTEM ................................................. 7- 1 7- 1 7- 3 7- 5 7- 5 7- 6
7- 10
DESCRIPTION ....................................................... INSPECTION ......................................................... IGNITION SYSTEM DESCRIPTION ................................................... .......................................................
INSPECTION ......................................................... STARTER SYSTEM ................................................... DESCRIPTION INSPECTION REASSEMBLY ....................................................... ................................. ......................................................... REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY
7- 10 7- 10 7- 11
7- 12
....................................................... STARTER REU Y INSPECTION .................................. INTERLOCK SYSTEM .................. .......................................................
7- 13 7- 13 7- 13 7- 15 7- 16 7- 16 7-17 7- 18 7-18 7- 18 7- 19 7- 19 7-20 7-20 7-20 7-20 7-2 1 7-2 1 7-2 1 7-2 1 7-22 7-23
SIDE-S7AND/lGNl7lON DESCRIPTION INSPECTION
......................................................... COMBINA T/ON METER .............................................. REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY INSPECTION LAMPS HEXDLIGHT ................................. ........................................................ .........................................................
..................................................................
TAIL/ BRAKE LIGHT ................................................ TURN SIGNAL LIGHT .............................................. SWITCHES ............................................................. RELA Y ................................................................... STARTER RELA Y ................................................... SIDE-S7A ND REU Y ............................................... TURN SIGNAL RELA Y ............................................. BA 7TERY ................................................................ SPECIFICA TIONS .................................................. INITIAL CHARGING ................................................ SERVICING .......................................................... RECHARGING OPERA T/ON BASED ON S. G. READING ...... SERVICE LIFE ........................................................
7-1 ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
CHARGING
DESCRIPTION
The circuit lator/rectifier The AC current
SYSTEM
system is indicated in the figure, is rectified which is composed of an AC generator, into regu-
of the charging generated
unit and battery. from the AC generator by the rectifier and is turned DC current,
then it charges the battery.
AC generator
r -1-1-1-1-----1--1-11
I 1 1 T
Regulator/Rectifier
1 1 T T 7
Ignition switch
I I
TOW
SCR
I-0
-------__----OF REGULATOR r/min
U.S.A.
model
only -_--A
i
voltage of the AC generator the generated is lower current than the adjusted
FUNCTION While voltage directly
the engine
is low and the generated
of regulator, at this time.
the regulator
does not function.
However,
charges the battery
AC generator
r 1-a-1-wmm1111---we--
Regulator/Rectifier
Ignition
switch
A
SCR
r-
I : I
b :: 2
111 i
I
I
I I
i
I
T
/
L 1
_-------(
4J
I
.S.A.
,-------
model only
i J
ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
7-2
When the engine r/min becomes higher, the generated voltage of the AC generator also becomes higher and the voltage between the battery terminals becomes high accordingly. ON, When it reaches the adjusted voltage gate of the I.C. (Integrated Circuit) and it is turned probe and the SCR will be turned ON. Then, the SCR becomes conductive generated from the AC generator gets through a signal will be sent to the SCR (Thyristor)
in the direction
from point
@ to point @I. At this time, the current charging the battery and returns to AC
the SCR without
generator again. At the end of this state, since the AC current generated from AC generator flows to point @ , the reverse current to charge the battery tends to flow to SCR. Then, the circuit of SCR turns to the OFF mode and begins again. Thus these repetitions maintain charging voltage and current to the battery
constant and protect it from overcharging.
Regulator/Rectifier ---------1---1-11--AC generator
Ignition
switch
17
I I
r
I
a---_-----
U.S.A.
model
only
7-3 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
INSPECTION
CHARGING OUTPUT CHECK Remove the seat. Start the engine and keep it running at 5 000 r/min with lighting switch turned ON and dimmer switch turned HI position. Using the pocket tester, measure the DC voltage between the battery terminals, 0 and 0 . or over 15.5V, check the AC and regulator/rectifier.
3egulatorf 3ectifier lg. switch
If the tester reads under 13.5V generator no-load performance NOTE: When making condition. STD charging output 09900-25002 : 13.5 -
this test, be sure that the battery is fully-charged
-_ -_ 15.5V (DC) at 5 000 r/min __

I--
: Pocket tester
0
f
model
AC GENERATOR Disconnect
NO-LOAD
PERFORMANCE
For U.S.A.
Remove the seat and lift the backside of fuel tank. the AC generator lead wire coupler. Start the engine and keep it running at 5 000 r/min. Using the pocket tester, measure the AC voltage between the three lead wires. If the tester reads under the specified voltage, the AC generator is faulty.
r
l
For U.S.A.
model More than 65V (AC) at 5000
1 For the other models
STD no-load performance: r/min (When engine cold.)
For the other models STD no-load performance: r/min (When engine cold.)
For U.S.A. model
More than 75V (AC) at 5000
Y: Yellow
09900-25002
: Pocket tester
AC GENERATOR three lead wires.
CONTINUITY
CHECK between the @ii=+
Using the pocket
tester, check the continuity
Check that there is no continuity ground.
between the lead wires and
Y: Yellow
For the other models
09900-25002 NOTE:
: Pocket tester
When making above test, it is not necessary to remove the AC generator.

Y: Yellow
ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
7-4
REGULATOR/RECTIFIER
l l
Remove the seat and lift the backside of fuel tank. Using the pocket ance between rectifier. If the resistance tester checked (x 1 kn range), measure the resisttable. the lead wires in the following is incorrect,
replace the regulator/
09900-25002
: Pocket tester
Unit:
Approx.
kR
@ Probe of tester to:

Y3
R 3.0 3.0
100
O/B 00 00
B/W m 00
m
m m
Y3 00 00
R O/B B/W Y: Yellow, NOTE: R: Red, O/B:
co 40 3.0 Orange with
00 40 3.0 Black tracer, 40 3.0 B/W: Black with 60 7.5
..
00
White tracer, m : Infinity
As transistors, capacitors, Zener diodes, etc. are used inside this regulator/rectifier, ohmmeter the resistance values will differ when an other than the SUZUKI pocket tester is used.
O/B
V
B/W
Y2
7-5 ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
IGNITION
DESCRIPTION
The fully
SYSTEM
ignition system rotor consists of a signal coil. The induced signal in the signal generator the best ignition timing is signal to the transistor coil which coil secondary is generator, ignitor, ignition coils, and spark
transistorized
plugs. The signal generator The signal generator sent to wave-form from of the turned windings I.G. coil OFF
comprises
tip and pick-up
is mounted arrangement
at the generator circuit, which
and rotor.
and CPU receives this signal and calculates in the ROM. The CPU outputs to the primary the secondary windings current is connected it induces
the signal of ceramic output
vibrator
and data stored thus
circuit
of the ignition on the ignition
and ON accordingly,
and produce
the spark between
spark plug gaps. -
Engine stop switch 70/wlgnitor
Side stand
relay
O/WO\O,BO~o/Y~
Signal generator
0
0
B EI
G
+,
&
r
* form
H /
R CPU
ignition switch
Wavearrangement circuit
b f
+-I
*
Central Processing Unit I
I,,
-B/YiL T Battery (12V
B/W *
To tachometer
:
B fA I
16AH
NOTE: The ignition cut-off circuit is not incorporated in this ignitor unit.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 7-6
INSPECTION
IGNITION
l l
COIL
(Checking with Electra Tester) coils from tester, the frame. coil for sparking Make sure is as indicated. occurs with test each ignition distance
Select
IG.
COIL
Remove the ignition Using the electro performance. If no sparking that the three-needle
The test connection sparking
is at least 8 mm. this much
Porn
or orange color sparking
gap, then it is defective 09900-28106
and must be replaced.
: Electra tester : 8 mm (0.3 in)
STD Spark performance
IGNITION
l
COIL
(Checking with Pocket Tester) pocket tester tester. or an ohmmeter In either may be used, coil case, the ignition
SUZUKI
instead
of the electro
is to be checked ary windings. Exact ohmic
for continuity
in both primary but, will
and second-
readings condition,
are not necessary, their continuity values.
if the windings be noted with
are in sound
these approximate 09900-25002 Ignition Primary Secondary
ohmic
: Pocket tester
coil resistance :@tap0 tap2-6a Tester range: (x 1 a) : & tap - Plug cap 19 - 27 ka Tester range: (x 1 kR)
SIGNAL
l l
GENERATOR
(Checking with Pocket Tester) between lead wires. If the resistance generator is
Remove the seat and left frame cover. Measure the resistance infinity or less than must be replaced. the specification, the signal
09900-25002 (For U.S.A.
: Pocket tester model) Approx. 117 R
Signal coil resistance : (G - BI) Tester range: (For the other models) Signal coil resistance : (G - BI) Approx. 230 n Tester range : (x 100 a) Wire color G BI : Green : Blue
(x 100 a)
CAUTION: When replacing LOCK the generator 1342 coil, apply a small quantity of THREAD to its mounting bolts and lead wire
I 1
~-of~,o~-,n~
guide screws. 99000-32050 : THREAD LOCK 1342
model)
Clamp I (Only for U.S.A.
model)
SPARK
l
PLUG a wire brush and pin. Use the pin to 1
Clean the plug with
remove carbon, taking care not to damage the porcelain.
Check the gap with a thickness gauge. - 0.035 in)
Spark plug gap : 0.8 - 0.9 mm (0.031
Recommended ND: ND: ND: NGK: NGK: NGK: NOTE: R
spark plug . . . . . Standard . . . . . Hot type . . . . . Cold type . . . . . . Standard . . . . . . Hot type . . . . . . Cold type
X24EPR-U9 X22EPR-U9 X27EPR-U9 DPR8EA-9 DPR7EA-9 DPRSEA-9
type spark plug is installed
for some specifications.
R to
type spark plug has a resister located at the ten ter electrode prevent radio noise.
IGNITOR tool).
UNIT
(Checking
with
Digital
lgnitor
Checker) for the ignitor unit using Digital lgnitor Checker (special The either on the machine or off the machine.
This section following 09931-94430
explains
the checking
procedure procedure
With this checker, explains
the ignitor unit can be checked
the checking
on the machine.
: Digital ignitor checker
WIRING
PROCEDURE: I lead wire couplers @ at the ignitor 4 two ignitor
Remove the seat. Disconnect unit.
Prepare the ignitor
checker
lead wire MODE
1 @ which its end
comes supplied with the ignitor checker and connect to the ignitor unit and another end to the checker. Connect the power source leads @ to the battery.
CAUTION: * Be sure that the BLACK 0 terminal * Before connecting both POWER position NOTE: Be sure that the battery CHECK With PROCEDURE: connected, check the ignitor three steps. used is in fully-charged condition. (POWER lead is connected 0 to the battery and RED lead to the button button terminal. switch are in off
the power source leads, make sure that and START not depressed).
all the lead wires properly
unit in the following First Step: Depress MODE POWER charged. NOTE: Only for U.S.A. model lamp
6 button should
then POWER come on, if not,
button. battery
This time, is under-
Be sure to depress M 0 DE 1 button.
7-9 ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
Second Step : Set REVOLUTION dial pointer to .2 position when START in which the checker produces the ignition 200 r/min of engine revolution on. With START two MONITOR primary current pulses simulating switch is turned check that in
MONITOR
IGl IG2 on -010 TACHO 0
switch is turned to ON position,
lamps turn on and off in slow frequency
order of CiJ- @ as illustrated. If these lamps do not turn on and off, the ignitor unit should be replaced.
Third Step: Turn REVOLUTION Dial up gradually (assuming the engine lamps (4 000 lighted. the engine unit must is gradually revved up) and check that the MONITOR as explained lamps properly passes beyond should the graduation show below lo, the ignitor 4
10 : 4 2 .i .2
REVOLUTION
11 13 12 14 :5s 17 18 X 1000 rpm
flash frequency r/min), the
in the second step above increases. continuously
As the dial pointer two
If the lamps go off at the graduation can not perform be replaced.
and therefore
ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
7-10
STARTER
DESCRIPTION
SYSTEM
The starter system is shown relay, clutch switch, starter button pressing the starter start the engine.
in the diagram button,
below:
namely,
the starter motor,
starter relay, side stand De-
engine stop switch,
side stand switch,
IG switch and battery.
(on the right handlebar
switch box) energizes the relay, causing the contact The motor draws about 80 amperes to
points to close which connects the starter motor to the battery.
Engine stop Clutch switch switch
Ignition switch
@ Neutral switch
L
7 c
I !
=: m
Starter relay
Starter button
switch
REMOVAL
l l l
AND
DISASSEMBLY
Remove the water pipe. (See page 3-7.) Remove the starter motor cover. Disconnect motor. the starter motor lead wire and remove the starter (Refer to page 3-l 2.)
Disassemble
the starter
motor
as shown
Apply
SUZUKI
SUPER A.
GREASE
Apply
SlJiUKl
MO LY PASTE.
@ @ @ @ @ @ 0 @
O-ring Housing Armature Washer O-ring Starter (2 pcs) motor case end (Inside)
Brush holder Housing end (Outside)
INSPECTION
CARBON BRUSH
When produce the brushes are worn, torque, this, the motor will be unable to to sufficient with and the engine periodically, calipers, will be difficult them
turn over. they
To prevent
measure replacing
the length when
of the brushes
a vernier
are too short
or chipping. calipers (200 mm) Service Limit in)
09900-20102
: Vernier
Brush
length
9 mm (0.35
COMMUTATOR
If the commutator surface is dirty, with starting # 400 performance or similar fine decreases. mutator Polish the commutator with a clean dry cloth. undercut calipers @ (200 with a vernier calipers. mm) Service Commutator undercut 0.2 mm (0.008 in) Limit
emery paper when it is dirty. After polishing Measure the commutator 09900-20102 : Vernier
it, wipe the com-
ARMATURE placing
COIL tester, check the coil for open and ground segment segments and on any two by and rotor at vari-
Using a pocket
probe pins on each commutator (to test for open), surface. to be open-circuited motor to suddenly tester : x 1Q range
core (to test for ground) ous places commutator the armature. cause
with the brushes
lifted off the replace will
If the coil is found the starter
or grounded fail.
Continuous
use of a defective
armature
09900-25002 Tester knob
: Pocket indication
OIL SEAL Check the seal lip for damage replace it. or oil leakage. If any damage is found,
REASSEMBLY
Reassemble the starter motor ly. Pay attention O-RING CAUTION: Replace the O-rings with new ones to prevent moisture. oil leakage and in the reverse order of disassembpoints: to the following
HOUSING
l
END (Inside)
Apply grease to the lip of oil seal. (Refer to page 7-l 1.) model) : SUZUKI models) : SUZUKI SUPER GREASE A SUPER GREASE A
(For U.S.A. 99000-25030
(For the other 99000-25010
HOUSING
l
END (Outside) a small quantity of SUZUKI MOLY PASTE to the
Apply
armature end. (Refer to page 7-l 1.) 99000-25140

l
: SUZUKI
MOLY
PASTE LOCK 1342 to the
Apply
a small quantity
of THREAD
starter motor housing screws. (Refer to page 7-l 1.) 99000-32050 : THREAD LOCK 1342
STARTER
Disconnect Turn the
RELAY
the
INSPECTION
of starter motor at starter relay
lead wire
which is located battery holder of left side. on the ignition terminals, switch, and inspect the continuity negative, when between the positive squeezing
clutch lever and pushing the starter button. If the starter relay is in sound condition, 09900-25002 Tester knob : Pocket indication tester : x IL? range continuity is found.
* Disconnect
l
the lead wires
from the starter ground if the resistance
relay. is as follows.
Check the coil for open, The coil is in good condition
and ohmic resistance.
09900-25002 Tester knob
: Pocket indication
tester : x IQ range Standard
Starter
relay resistance
2-6s2
SIDE-STAND/IGNITION
DESCRIPTION
This side-stand/ignition down. The system interlock is operated
INTERLOCK SYSTEM
system is to prevent circuit starting provided the motorcycle between with the side-stand and ignition left coil.
by an electric
the battery
Side-stand/ignition Fuse Ignition switch interlock relay
Starter
motor
Clutch
switch
and 33 models)
B/W
ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
7-14
The circuit
consists
of relay,
lamp,
diode and switches and SIDE-STAND situations as follows: DOWN
and decides
to live the ignition
coil depending switches work-
on the position ing mutually. The ignition The current
of the TRANSMISSION
with the neutral and side-stand
coil lives only in two NEUTRAL (ON) flow @ turns ON
1. Transmission:
Side-stand:
(OFF) coil lives even the side-stand is kept down.
the relay and the ignition
This is for warming
up the engine.
SIDE-STAND IGNITION ON SW. RELAY ON
BATTERY
IGNITION
COIL
SIDE-STAND
SW.
SIDE-STAND DOWN POSITION

I
2. Side-stand: The current
UP-RIGHT flow @ turns
ION) ON the relay and the ignition coil lives. The engine can be easily startposition.
ed at any transmission
ON
BATTERY
IGNITION
COIL
SIDE-STAND
INSPECTION
If the interlock component. nent with system one. tester does not operate is found, properly, check each If any abnormality a new replace the compo-
09900-25002
: Pocket
Diode The diode is located behind the ignitor unit. The diode can pass current only in one direction.
l
Check the continuity
between
@ and 0.
If one way conti-
nuity the diode is in good condition.

l
Also check the continuity
between @ and @ as required.
Neutral switch The neutral cover.

l
lead wire coupler
is located behind the left frame
Disconnect between TRAL.
the neutral switch lead and check the continuity BI and ground with the transmission in NEU-
Side-stand
switch
G
ON (UP-right position)
B/W
OFF (Down position)
Side-stand/ignition of the right side.
interlock
relay relay is located battery holder
The side-stand/ignition
interlock
First, check the insulation pocket and 0. If there is no continuity, tester. Then to 0, apply to @ and 0 _I
between 12 volts
and @ terminals between one.
with (Q
to @ and @ terminals,
and check replace
the continuity it with a new
COMBINATION
REMOVAL
l
METER
DISASSEMBLY
meter as follows,
AND
Disassemble
the combination
7-17
ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
INSPECTION
Using the pocket tester, check the continuity between lead wires in the diagram as shown below. If the continuity parts. 09900-25002 : Pocket tester : x l!J range measured is incorrect, replace the respective
Tester knob indication NOTE: When making bination meter.
this test, it is not necessary
to remove
the com-
B/Y:
TACHO
SIGNAL
6?
G/Y: OIL 0
B/W:
WIRE ITEM TURN SIGNAL @ Probe of tester B Gr Y 0 0 0 0 and B/Y to: 0 Probe of tester Lg B/W B/W G/Y BI/B BIG B/W to: B Lg 0 Gr Y El/B: B/W: B/G
COLOR
ILLUMI. HIGH BEAM OIL NEUTRAL TEMP TACHO
: Black : Light green : Orange : Gray

: Yellow Blue with Black with Black White tracer tracer
: Black with Green tracer B/Y : Black with Yellow tracer

G/Y: Green with Yellow tracer
ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
7-18
LAMPS
HEADLIGHT
NOTE: Adjust the headilight, both vertical and horizontal, after reassembling.
TAIL/BRAKE
LIGHT
7-19 ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
TURN
SIGNAL
LIGHT
SWITCHES
Inspect each switch mality is found, diagram.) 09900-25002 Tester knob : Pocket indication tester : x l!J range for continuity with the pocket tester referring to the wiring diagram, If any abnorreplace the respective switch assemblies with new ones. (Refer to the chapter 9 of wiring
OIL PRESSURE
l l
SWITCH
engine is stopped. is running. when engine
Continuity,
when
No continuity,
NOTE: Before inspecting if the engine the oil pressure switch, check oil level is enough.
ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
7-20
RELAY
STARTER RELAY
The starter relay is located on the battery holder of left side. (Refer to page 7-13 for details.)
SIDE-STAND
The side-stand
RELAY
relay is located behind the right frame cover.
(Refer to page 7- 13 for detai Is.)
TURN
SIGNAL
RELAY
I
The turn signal relay is located behind the right frame cover. If the turn signal light does not light, inspect the bulb or repair the circuit connection. If the bulb and circuit connection signal relay may be faulty, checked are correct, the turn replace it with a new one.
NOTE:
Be sure rhar the battery
used is in fully-charged
condition.
BATTERY
SPECIFICATIONS
Type designation Capacity Standard electrolyte S.G.
YBlGB-A 12V, 57.6 kC (16 Ah)/lOHR I 1.28 at 20 C (68 F) to the motorcycle, vent. connect the breather -
In fitting
the battery
hose to the battery
INITIAL
FILLING Remove
CHARGING
ELECTROLYTE the short sealed tube @ before (dilute by weight, cooled filling electrolyte. acid solution MAX. 30C LEV(86OF) with electrolyte of 35.0% (68OF)) be always additional at 20C should Add sulfuric
Fill the battery gravity of 1.28
with acid concentration EL. Electrolyte hour below. Maximum charging after
having a specific
up to indicated below standing
before filling into battery. filling. Charge battery
Leave battery as described
for half an
electrolyte
if necessary.
with current
in the table shown
current
1.6A
CHARGING ber of
TIME by the numthe date of that have elapsed since
The charging time for a new battery is determined months manufacture. CONFIRMATION shown year. Near the end of charging of electrolyte electrolyte to value period, adjust After in the FOR DATE illustration, OF MANUFACTURE by a three-part indicating
Date of manufacture
is indicated each
number 0,
as
month,
date and gravity the WATER.
the specific charging,
specified.
adjust
level to the MAX.
LEVEL with DISTILLED
SERVICING
Visually battery inspect the surface or electrolyte replace of the battery leakage the battery container. with If any signs of cracking If the battery an acidic white away with from the sides of the a new one. with rust or
have occurred, terminals powdery
are found substance,
to be coated
then this can be cleaned
sandpaper.
Check the electrolyte Check S.G. 20C the battery reading. (68OF),
level and add distilled to each is 1.22 ceil s
water, MAX.
as neceslevel. to
DISTILLED WATER
sary to raise the electrolyte If the reading
for proper charge
by taking
an electrolyte
s
or less, as corrected
it means that the battery recharging.
is still in a run-down
condition NOTE: First,
and needs
remove after
the 0
lead
wire. Within 9 30 Within 12 40 Over 12 60
Months
Within 6 20
manufacturing Necessary charging hours
RECHARGING OPERATION S.G. READING

the hydrometer electrolyte 09900-28403
BASED
ON
in of
Hydrometer
To read the S.G. on the hydrometer, float scale bordering surface), on the meniscus as shown
bring the electrolyte (curved-up portion
to eye level and read the graduation in figure.
on the
: Hydrometer
Check termine capacity
the reading
(as corrected
to 20C)
with
chart to dechargof the

u "0 E 1.23 .P 1.18 % s 1.13 .o 'c_ $ 1.08 :: 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 Recharging time (hour) 16 18 1.28
the recharging
time in hour by constant-current (which is tenth battery).
ing at a charging
rate of 1.6 amperes
of the present
Electrolyte
specific
gravity
1.28
at 20C
(68OF)
Be careful ceed 45OC ation. cation. CAUTION: electrolyte
not to permit (113OF), the
the electrolyte as
temperature to
to exoperlet the
1.29 c 1.28 'S 1.27 : 1.26 .o 1.25 z 1.24 $1.23 m 1.22 1.21 "C 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 Temperature "F 32 41 50 59 68 77 86 95 104
at any time, during the recharging operation, Recharge necessary, the battery
Interrupt
cool down.
to the specifi-
Constant-voltage battery.
charging,
otherwise
called quick
charg-
ing, is not recommendable
for it could shorten
the life of the
SERVICE LIFE
Lead oxide is applied will come off gradually of the battery tery cannot for a long time, the pole plates tion). When Replace a battery to the pole plates of the battery during the service. When full of the sediment, If the battery is generated with new which the batof the bottom
case becomes lead sulfate the battery
be used any more.
is not charged (sulfait is apt season),
on the surface a case.
and will deteriorate
the performance one in such using,
is left for a long term without When the motorcycle during at least. (especially
to subject more than recharge WARNING:
to sulfation. 1 month the battery
is not used for
the winter
once a month
* Before charging cell.
a battery, away
remove
the seal cap from each being charged. be sure to
* Keep fire and sparks * When remove removing the 0
from a battery
a battery terminal
from the motorcycle, first.
~~~~~
~~
~~~~~~ CONTENTS
~~
FRONT WHEEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_ REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8_ INSPECTION AND DISASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8_ REASSEMBLY AND REMOUNTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8_ FRONT BRAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_ BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT CALIPER REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY .......+..........8. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8_ CALIPER AND DISC INSPECTION CALIPER REASSEMBLY AND REMOUNTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_ MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY . ..8. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8_ MASTER CYLINDER INSPECTION MASTER CYLINDER REASSEMBLY AND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8s REMOUNTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_ FRONT FORK REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_ DlSASSEMBL Y.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_ INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_ REASSEMBLY AND REMOUNTING STEERING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_ REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_ DISASSEMBL Y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_
IN_CPFf?TlflN .m .V, ---m-m. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .&
1 1 2 3 5 5 6 6 7 8 8 9 10 10 11 12 12 75 15 I6
16
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_ 16 REASSEMBLY AND REMOUNTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8_ 18 STEERING TENSION ADJUSTMENT IGNITION SWITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8-19 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_20 REAR BRAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_20 BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT CALIPER REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBL Y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . B-2 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_22 CALIPER AND DISC INSPECTION n 1 I ,m#-m mr 1 mmr.*m* ,I 1 .I_ mr..m. I.ITI..fi CIHLlrKfl KtH33LIIVlCIL T UIVLJ HtMLJUlV I INU . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8-22 MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY . ..8-23 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_24 MASTER CYLINDER INSPECTION MASTER CYLINDER REASSEMBLY AND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_25 REMOUNTING REAR WHEEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_26 REMOVAL AND DlSASSEMBL Y.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_26 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_28 INSPECTION AND DISASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_29 REASSEMBLY AND REMOUNTING TIRE AND WHEEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8-31 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8-31 TIRE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_33 INSPECTION TIRE MOUNTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_34
RFA , .__, R. _Cl I_CPFN_ClfIN VI_, I,._,_,.
REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_36 INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_38 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_38 REASSEMBLY AND REMOUNTING FINAL INSPECTION AND ADJUSTMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8-39 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_40 REASSEMBLY INFORMATION SUSPENSION SETTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8_4I
A N/3 _..I
S WING ARM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .&36 _.I mn.-s .m .m.m
FRONT WHEEL
G : Apply SUPER GREASE A. Th1360 : Apply THREAD LOCK SUPER 1360. Tightening torque
31
1. Support
the motorcycle
with
the center stand and a jack.
2. Loosen the axle pinch bolt. 09900-00410 : Hexagon wrench set
3. Remove the axle shaft and the front wheel. 09900-l 8710 : 12 mm hexagon socket
CAUTION: Do not operate the brake lever while wheel. dismounting the front
CHASSIS 8-2
INSPECTION AND DISASSEMBLY

SPEEDOMETER Inspect TIRE Refer to page 8-31. GEAR BOX DUST SEAL the lip of dust seal for damage.
WHEEL Inspect in the abnormal
BEARINGS the play of the wheel wheel. Rotate the noise and smooth unusual. bearings rotation. by hand whiie Replace the they are for if inner race by hand to inspect bearing
Plan Play
there is anything
To
remove
the
wheel
bearings,
use the
snecial -r--.-
tog!
in
the
following
procedures: : Bearing remover

I
09941-50110
1) Insert the adaptor into the wheel bearing. II**-.. 111se, )\ :,..-,+:,, .-.:A, l--l, ,,, LI,e: P.,..,,;+, cJIJ S1K 31ve, 1 C.R L, H,K, LllllJ +l-... ...^ rl,.-. Lilt: a ye L.I SC_, +L, cl, II the wedge bar in the slit of the adaptor. 3) Drive out the wheel CAUTION: The removed bearings should be replaced with new ones.
I
bearing
by knocking
the wedge bar.
Using a dial gauge, check the axle shaft for runout it if the runout 09900-20606 09900-20701 09900-21304 exceeds the limit. : Dial gauge (l/100) : Magnetic stand : V-block set (100 mm) in)
and replace
Service limit : 0.25 mm (0.010
WHEEL Make sure that the wheel exceed worn the service limit. or loosen wheel runout checked If bearing as shown replacement does not due to fails to An excessive runout is usually
bearings.
reduce the runout,
replace the wheel. : 2.0 mm (0.08 in)
Service limit (Axial and Radial)
8-3 CHASSIS

Reassemble and remount of removal points: WHEEL
l
the front wheel in the reverse order Pay attention to the following
and disassembly.
--- -_ BEARING
Apply grease to the bearing before installing. model) : SUZUKI : SUZUKI SUPER SUPER GREASE GREASE A A by using the special
(For U.S.A. 99000-25030 99000-25010

l
Install tool.
the wheel
bearings as follows
09924-84510 NOTE:
: Bearing installer set
First instaii the ieft wheei bearing, then instaii the right wheei bearing. The sealed cover on the bearing is positioned outside.
Left
Right
Left
Right
Bearing
installer
Spacer
BRAKE matter. mounting
DISC Apply THREAD LOCK SUPER 1360 to the disc
Make sure that the brake disc is clean and free of any greasy bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. : THREAD torque LOCK SUPER 1360
: 18 - 28 N-m (1.8 - 2.8 kg-m, 13.0 - 20.0 lb-ft)
CHASSIS 84
SPEEDOMETER
l
GEARBOX the speedometer gearbox, apply grease to
Before installing its dust seal lip.
(For U.S.A. 99000-25030 99000-25010
model) : SUZUKI SUPER GREASE GREASE A A
(For the other models) : SUZUK I SUPER
Fit two drive lugs @ into recesses @ of the wheel hub. Set the stopper on the speedometer the front gearbox to lug on
the left front fork. When tightening ometer gearbox axle, make sure that the speedand the speedometer cable is in position
does not bend sharply.
AXLE
l
SHAFT the axle shaft to the specified torque. torque : 36 - 52 N-m (3.6 - 5.2 kg-m, 26.0 - 37.5 lb-ft)
Tighten
Tightening
Tighten the axle pinch bolt to the specified torque. torque : 18 - 28 N.m (1.8 - 2.8 kg-m, 13.0 - 20.0 lb-ft)
Tightening
8-5 CHASSIS
FRONT BRAKE
SG
SG : Apply
SILICONE
GREASE.
BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the brake caliper by removing the mounting bolts.
09900-00410 : Hexagon wrench set
2. Remove the pads. CAUTION: * Do not operate the brake lever while dismounting * Replace the brake pads as a set, otherwise mance will be adversely affected. the pads. braking perfor-
CHASSIS 8-6
CALIPER REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY

1. Disconnect union CAUTION: Never reuse the brake iiuid for long periods. WARNING: Brake fluid, if it leaks, will interfere with safe running and discolor painted surfaces. Check the brake hose and hose joint for cracks and oil leakage. 2. Remove the caliper 3. Remove the pads. mounting bolts and take off the caliper. ieft over from servicing and stored the brake hose from the caliper by removing the bolt and catch the brake fluid in a suitable receptacle.
4. Place a rag over the pistons out and push out the pistons CAUTION:
to prevent
them
from
popping
by using the air gun.
Do not use high pressure air to prevent piston damage.
5. Remove the pistons of the caliper.
0,
dust seals @ and piston
seals @ out
CALIPER AND DISC INSPECTION

CALIPER Inspect damage. PISTON Inspect the piston surface for any scratches or other damage. the caliper bore wall for nicks, scratches or other
8-7 CHASSIS
DISC Using a micrometer, check the disc for wear, its thickness can be checked with disc and wheel in place. The service limits for the thickness of the discs are shown below. 09900-20205 : Micrometer (0 - 25 mm)
Service limit (Front) (Rear)
: 5.0 mm (0.20 in) : 5.5 mm (0.22 in)
With
the disc mounted
on the wheel, check the disc for face --
runout with a dial gauge, as shown. 09900-20606 09900-20701 : Dial gauge (l/100 : Magnetic stand in) mm)
CALIPER REASSEMBLY AND REMOUNTING

Reassemble the caliper in the reverse order of removal to the following points: and disassembly. Pay attention CAUTION : with fresh brake fluid before Never use cleaning solvent or gasoline to wash to the caliper bore and piston to be
* Wash the caliper components reassembly. them. * Apply brake fluid inserted into the bore. CALIPER
l
BOLTS
Tighten each bolt to the specified torque. torque bolt @ : 30 - 48 N-m (3.0 - 4.8 kg-m, 21.5 - 34.5 lb-ft)
Tightening mounting
Front brake caliper
Brake hose union bolt @ : 15 - 20 N.m (1.5 - 2.0 kg-m, 11.0 - 14.5 lb-ft) CAUTION: Bleed air after reassembling the caliper. (Refer to page 2-13). NOTE: Before remounting the caliper. the caliper, push the piston all the way into
CHASSIS 8-8
MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY

1. Remove the front brake light switch lead wires.
2. Place a rag underneath
the union bolt on the master cylinder Remove the union
to catch the spilled drops of brake fluid.
bolt and disconnect the brake hose/master cylinder joint. CAUTION: Immediately and completely wipe off any brake fluid contactThe fluid reacts chemically ing any part of the motorcycle. them severely. 3. Remove the master cylinder 4. Remove the front 5. Drain brake fluid. 6. Remove the dust seal, then remove the circlip by using the assembly. cap and diaphragm.
with paint, plastics and rubber materials, etc. and will damage
brake lever, reservoir
special tool. 09900-06108 : Snap ring pliers
Remove the piston/secondary @ Secondary @ Piston 0 Primary cap spring @ Return cup
cup, primary
cup and spring.
MASTER CYLINDER INSPECTION

l
Inspect damage. Inspect Inspect
the master cylinder the piston
bore for any scratches
or other
l l
surface for any scratches cup, secondary
or other damage. seal for
the primary
cup and dust
wear or damage.
8-9 CHASSIS
MASTER
Reassemble
CYLINDER
REASSEMBLY
AND REMOUNTING
points:
the master cylinder Pay attention
in the reverse order of removal to the following
and disassembly. CAUTION:
Wash the master cylinder before reassembly. wash them. Apply brake fluid
components
with fresh brake fluid
Never use cleaning solvent or gasoline to to the cylinder bore and all the com-
ponent to be inserted into the bore.
When align punched
remounting the master mark
the cylinder
master
cylinder mating
on the surface
handlebar, @ with the upper
holder s
@ on the handlebar
and tighten
clamp bolt first as shown. Tightening torque : 5 - 8 N-m (0.5 - 0.8 kg-m, 3.5 - 6.0 lb-It)
CAUTION: Bleed air after reassembling master cylinder. (Refer to page 2-13).
Master cylinder
Upper clamp bolt
Clearance
CHASSIS 8-l 0
FRONT FORK
G : Apply SUPER GREASE A. Th1342
: Apply THREAD
LOCK 1342.
Tightening torque Item @I N.m 15-30 18 -28 kg-m 1.5-3.0 1.8-2.8 2.5 - 3.5 lb-ft 11.0-21.5 13.0-20.0 18.0 - 25.5
I
, 0
25 - 35
REMOVAL
1. Support the motorcycle with the center stand and a jack. 2. Remove the front wheel. (Refer to page 8-l.) 3. Remove the brake caliper. 09900-00401 CAUTION: Hang the brake caliper from the motorcycle frame by using a string, etc., taking care not to bend the brake hose. 4. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the speedometer : L type hexagon wrench set
and remove the front fender. 5. Remove the fender brace.
8-11 CHASSIS
NOTE: Slightly loosen the front fork cap bolts @ to facilitate later disassembly before loosening the front fork clamp bolts. 6. Loosen the front fork upper and lower clamp bolts. 7. Remove the front forks.
DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove the front fork cap bolt. 2. Remove tube. 3. Turn the fork upside down and stroke it several times to let out fork oil. 4. Hold the fork upside down for a few minutes to drain oil. the spacer, spring seat and spring out of the inner
5. While holding the caliper mounting gon wrench. 09900-0040 09940-34520 09940-34592
portion
by vise and
remove the damper rod with the special tool and the hexa-
1 : L type hexagon wrench set : T-handle : Attachment G
6. Remove the dust seal and the oil seal stopper ring. 7. Pull the inner tube out of the outer tube.
CAUTION: The outer tube and inner tube anti-friction replaced along with the oil seal and dust seal. 8. Remove the damper rod and the rebound inner tube. @ Dust seal @I Oil seal stopper ring 0 0 Oil seal Oil seal retainer metal (Outer tube metal) metal (Inner tube metal) spring out of the metals must be
@ Anti-friction 6? Anti-friction
CHASSIS 8-12
INSPECTION
DAMPER ROD RING Inspect the damper rod ring for wear or damage. INNER AND OUTER TUBE tube sliding
Inspect the inner tube sliding surface and outer surface for any scuffing.
FORK
SPRING the fork spring free length. If it is shorter than the
Measure
service limit, replace it with a new one. Service limit : For E-01,03,28,33 For the other models models 353 mm (13.9 in) 348 mm (13.7 in)

Reassemble and remount removal points: INNER
l
the front fork in the reverse order of Pay attention to the following
and
disassembly.
TUBE
METAL and clean the metal groove
Hold
the inner tube vertically
and install the metal by hand as shown. CAUTION: Use special care to prevent surface of the anti-friction DAMPER
l
damage to the Teflon metal when mounting it.
coated
Replace
ROD BOLT LOCK to the damper rod bolt and tighten it to the speci-
Replace the gasket with a new one. Apply THREAD 1342 fied torque.
: THREAD torque
LOCK 1342
THREAD LOCK 1342
: 25 - 35 N-m (2.5 - 3.5 kg-m, 18.0 - 25.5 lb-ft)
OUTER
l
TUBE the
METAL, metal
OIL SEAL of
AND
DUST SEAL and metal outer
Clean surface.
groove
outer
tube
Install the outer tube metal, oil seal retainer and oil seal. : Front fork oil seal installer
09949-59113 CAUTION:
Use special care to prevent surface of the anti-friction
damage to the Teflon metal when installing it.
coated
8-13 CHASSIS
After
installing
the oil seal, install the oil stopper ring and metal (Outer tube metal)
the dust seal. Anti-friction (1: &Z Oil seal retainer CC Oil seal 0 Oil seal stopper ring @ Dust seal FORK
l
OIL oil whose viscosity rating meet specifications
Use fork below.
Fork oil type Fork oil capacity (each leg) for E-01,03, 28,33 models
Fork oil #lO 388 ml (13.1/13.7 US/Imp. 02)
Fork oil capacity (each leg) for the other models 99000-99044-1OG
l
392 ml (13.2/13.8 FORK OIL #IO US/Imp. oz)
: SUZUKI
Hold the front
fork vertically
and adjust the fork oil level
with the special tool. NOTE: When adjusting oil level, remove the fork springs and compress the inner tube fully. 09943-74111 : Fork oil level gauge
Standard oil level : For E-01,03,28,33 For the other models FORK
l
models
142 mm (5.59 in) 138 mm (5.43 in)
SPRING installing the fork spring, its large pitch end should in bottom. REMOUNTING the front fork @ assembly, height set the upper that of the from
When
position FRONT
l
FORK
When
remounting
surface of the inner tube to steering stem upper bracket. Height 8 :
1 For E-01, 03, 28, 33 models For the other models CLAMP
l
0 mm (0 in) 5.0 mm (0.20 in)
BOLTS the upper and lower clamp bolts to the specified
Tighten torque.
: Hexagon wrench set torque ( 0 & @ ) : 18 - 20 N-m (1.8 - 2.8 kg-m, 13.0 - 20.0 lb-ft)
CHASSIS
8-14
Set the front photograph.
fender
brace in the direction
as shown
in the
NOTE: Before front tightening the fender brace mounting screws, move the fork up and down 4 or 5 times.
8-15 CHASSIS
STEERING
Handlebar (Only damper rubber model)
for U.S.A.
G : Apply Tightening
SUPER torque
GREASE
A.
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect
lead wires in the headlight housing and remove the headlight. 2. Remove the horn. 3. Disconnect the speedometer cable and remove the tachometer and speedometer. 4. Remove the front wheel. (Refer to page 8-l.) 5. Remove the brake hose clamp bolt from the steering lower bracket. 6. Remove the front forks. (Refer to page 8-10.) 7. Remove the handlebar clamp bolts.
CHASSIS 8-18
8. Remove the steering 9. Remove 10. Remove the steering the steering tion switch
stem head nut. stem head by disconnecting stem nut by using the ignitool,
lead wire coupler. the special stem lower bracket.
then remove the steering 09940-14911 NOTE: Hold : Steering
stem nut wrench
the steering stem lower
bracket
by hand to prevent
it
from falling. 11. Disassemble the handlebar holders.
INSPECTION
Inspect the removed Handlebar Handlebar distortion clamp wear parts for the following abnormalities.
Race wear and brinelling Bearing wear or damage Abnormal Distortion noise of bearing of steering stem
DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove the steering 2. Remove tool. 09941-84510 CAUTION: The removed bearing should be replaced with a new one. 3. Drive out the steering stem bearing races, upper and lower, by using the special tools. 09941-54911 09941-74910 : Bearing outer race remover : Steering bearing installer : Bearing remover the steering stem upper bearing. stem lower bearing by using the special

Reassemble of removal points: OUTER
l
and remount and
the steering
stem in the reverse order to the following
disassembly.
Pay attention
RACES races by using the special
Press in the upper and lower outer tool.
09941-34513
: Steering outer race installer
8-17 CHASSIS
BEARING
l
Place a washer on the bearing and press in the lower bearing by using the special tool.
09941-74910
: Steering bearing installer
Apply
grease to the
upper
and lower bearings before
re-
mounting
the steering stem.
(For U.S.A. model) 99000-25030 99000-25010 : SUZUKI : SUZUKI SUPER SUPER GREASE GREASE A A (For the other models)
STEM NUT
l
Tighten the steering stem nut to the specified torque. : Steering stem nut wrench torque : 40 - 50 N-m (4.0 - 5.0 kg-m, 29.0 - 36.0 lb-ft)
Turn the steering stem lower bracket about five or six times to the left and right so that the taper roller bearing will be seated properly.
114 112 turn
Turn back the stem nut by l/4
l/2 turn.
Q, \
-\
NOTE: This adjustment will vary from motorcycle to motorcycle. %
HANDLEBAR
l
HOLDER nuts to the specified
Tighten the handlebar holder mounting torque.
Tightening
torque
: 20 - 30 N-m (2.0 - 3.0 kg-m, 14.5 - 21.5 lb-ft)
CHASSIS 8-18
HANDLEBAR
l
Set the handlebar face of the holder. Secure
to match its punched mark to the mating clamp in such a way that the
the each handlebar &
clearances Tightening
ahead and behind the handlebar are equalized. : 18 - 28 N-m (1.8 - 2.8 kg-m, 13.0 - 20.0 lb-ft)
torque
STEERING TENSION ADJUSTMENT

Check the steering movement By supporting mm (0.8 properly With spring in the following procedure. the motorcycle with the center stand and a it is off the floor by 20 - 30
jack, lift the front wheel until 1.2 in).
Check to make sure that the cables and wire harnesses are routed. wheel in the straight ahead state, hitch the tool) on one handlebar grip end as when the hanscale (special the front
shown in the figure and read the graduation
dlebar starts moving. Do the same on the other grip end. Initial force : 200 - 500 grams 09940-92710
l
: Spring scale force read on the scale when the handlebar is either too heavy or too light, adjust it till it fork upper clamp bolts and steerit.
If the
initial
starts turning
satisfies the specification. 1) First, loosen the front

I
ing stem head nut, and then adjust the steering stem nut by loosening or tightening 2) Tighten torque the and recheck head nut and clamp bolts to the specified the initial force with the spring scale described procedure.
according to the previously Tightening torque @
Stem head nut
: 50 - 80 N-m (5.0 - 8.0 kg-m, 36.0 - 58.0 lb-ft)
Front fork upper clamp bolt @J : 18 - 28 N-m (1.8 - 2.8 kg-m, 13.0 - 20.0 lb-ft) 3) If the initial force is found within the specified range,
adjustment NOTE:
has been completed.
Hold the front fork legs, move them back and forth and make sure that the steering is not loose.
l
Lower the jack.
IGNITION SWITCH
l
To remove the ignition the ignition
switch,
remove the bolt to detach
switch from the steering stem upper bracket by
using a center punch and hummer.
To
install the ignition
switch,
always use the new special
bolt and follow the procedures below: NOTE: The spare ignition bolts, however, parts. switch comes equipped with the special the bolt is also individually available as spare
Using the special bolts, attach steering stem upper with the special tool. bracket
the ignition
switch
on the
in place and run in the bolts
09930-l
1910 : Torx wrench

TORX WRENCH
Continue tightened
turning
the tool until the tool slips from the bolt
head or the bolt head breaks off, then the bolt has become to the proper specification.
r
1
-SLIP
CHASSIS E-20
REAR BRAKE
Tightening
torque
15-20
1 1.5-2.0
111.0-14.51
BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT

1. Remove the dust seal cover. 2. Remove the clips, pins and springs. 3. Remove the pads. CAUTION: * * Do not operate the brake pedal while dismounting Replace the brake pads as a set, otherwise the pads. will be adversely affected. braking performance
CALIPER REMOVAL
1. Remove the union ble receptacle. CAUTION:
AND DISASSEMBLY
bolt and catch the brake fluid in a suita-
Never reuse the brake fluid for long periods.
left over from servicing and stored -
WARNING: Brake fluid, if it leaks, will interfere with safe running and discolor painted surfaces. Check the brake hose and hose joint for cracks and oil leakage. 2. Remove the caliper mounting 3. Remove caliper. NOTE: Slightly loosen the caliper housing bolts @ to facilitate bolts. later disassembly before removing the caliper mounting 4. Remove the pads. 5. Remove halves. 6. Remove the O-ring. NOTE: Once separate the caliper halves, replace the O-ring with a new one. the caliper housing bolts and separate the caliper the torque link bolts. and nut, and take off the
bolt
7. Place a rag over the piston to prevent
it from popping out
and push out the piston by using air gun. CAUTION: Do not use high pressure air to prevent piston damage.
8. Remove caliper.
the dust seal, piston
and piston
seal out of the
CHASSIS 8-22
CALIPER AND DISC INSPECTION

CALIPER PISTON RUBBER DISC .......................... ........................... PARTS .................... ............................. Refer to page 8-6. Refer to page 8-6. Refer to page 8.6. Refer to page 8-7.
CALIPER REASSEMBLY AND REMOUNTING

Reassemble removal points: CAUTION: Wash the caliper components reassembly. them. Apply brake fluid to the caliper bore and piston to be . inserted into the bore. Tighten each bolt to the specified torque. Tightening torque : 30 - 36 N-m (3.0 - 3.6 kg-m, 21.5 - 26.0 lb-ft) Torque link nut @ Rear brake caliper mounting bolt @ : 20 - 31 N-m (2.0 - 3.1 kg-m, 14.5 - 22.5 lb-ft :) Brake hose union bolt @ : 15 - 20 N-m (1.5 - 2.0 kg-m, 11 .O CAUTION: Bleed air after reassembling the caliper. (Refer to page 2-13.) 14.5 lb-ft) : 22 - 35 N-m (2.2 - 3.5 kg-m, 16.0 - 25.5 lb-ft :I with fresh brake fluid before Never use cleaning solvent or gasoline to wash and and remount disassembly. the caliper Pay in the reverse order of to the following attention
Rear brake caliper housing bolt @
MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY 1. Remove the seat.

2. Remove the master cylinder 09900-0040 cover and brake pedal boss bolt. 1 : L type hexagon wrench set
3. Place a rag underneath to catch joint. CAUTION: Immediately spilled
the union bolt on the master cylinder Unscrew the union _
drops of brake fluid.
bolt and disconnect the brake hose from the master cylinder
and completely
wipe off any brake fluid contactThe fluid reacts chemically etc. and will damage
ing any part of the motorcycle. them severely. 4. Remove the master cylinder
with paint, plastics and rubber materials,
mounting
bolts.
5. Disconnect
the reservoir tank hose from the master cylinder
by loosening the clamp screw and catch the brake fluid in a suitable receptacle. 6. Remove the master cylinder assembly.
7. Remove the reservoir tank cap and drain brake fluid from the reservoir tank.
CHASSIS 8-24
8. Remove
the dust seal, then
remove
the circlip
by using the
special tool. 09900-06105 : Snap ring pliers
9. Remove the push rod, piston,
primary
cup and spring.
10. Remove the connector CAUTION:
and O-ring.
The removed O-ring should be replaced with a new one.
MASTER CYLINDER INSPECTION

CYLINDER,
l
PISTON the cylinder
AND
CUP SET for any scratches or other
Inspect damage. Inspect Inspect
bore wall
l l
the piston
surface for any scratches or other damage. part for wear or damage.
the cup set and each rubber
8-25 CHASSIS
MASTER CYLINDER REMOUNTING

Reassemble order ing points: CAUTION: and remount of removal
REASSEMBLY
the master
AND
in the reverse to the follow-
cylinder
and disassembly.
Pay attention
Wash the master cylinder before reassembly. wash them. Apply
components
with fresh brake fluid
Never use cleaning solvent or gasoline to bore and all the internals
brake fluid to the cylinder
to be inserted into the bore.
MASTER
l
CYLINDER
BOLTS
Tighten each bolt to the specified torque. torque @ : 15 - 20 N-m (1.5 - 2.0 kg-m, 11.0 14.5 lb-ft)
Tightening Brake hose union bolt
Master cylinder mounting bolt @ : 5 - 8 N-m (0.5 - 0.8 kg-m, 3.5 - 6.0 lb-ft) BRAKE
l
PEDAL
BASS BOLT surface of the brake pedal boss.
Apply
grease to sliding model) : SUZUKI : SUZUKI
(For U.S.A. 99000-25030 99000-25010

l
SUPER SUPER
GREASE GREASE
A A to the torque
Apply with
THREAD the hexagon model)
LOCK wrench.
SUPER
1333B 1322 / it to the specified
brake pedal boss bolt
and tighten
(For U.S.A. 99000-32020 99000-32110 Tightening
: THREAD : THREAD torque
1333B 1322
1For the other models)
: 18 - 28 N-m (1.8 - 2.8 kg-m, 13.0 - 20.0 lb-ft)
CAUTION: * Bleed air after reassembling master cylinder. 2-l 3.) * Adjust the rear brake light switch and brake pedal height after installation. (Refer to page 2-13.) (Refer to page
CHASSIS 8-26
REAR WHEEL
G : Apply SUPER GREASE A. Th1303 Thl360
: Apply THREAD : Apply THREAD
LOCK SUPER 1303. LOCK SUPER 1360.
Tightening torque
WI
REMOVAL
1. Support
AND DISASSEMBLY
by the center stand.
the motorcycle
2. Remove the rear torque link nut. 3. Remove the axle nut cap and remove the axle nut. 4. Draw out the rear axle shaft and remove the rear wheel. CAUTION: Do not operate caliper. the brake pedal while dismounting the brake
5. Remove the brake disc by removing the mounting 09900-00410 : Hexagon wrench set
bolts.
6. Flatten the lock washers and remove the fitting bolts.
7. Pull off the driven joint.
8. Remove the O-ring CiJ.
9. Take off the dampers by using the special tools. 09921-20210 09930-30102 : Bearing remover : Sliding shaft
CHASSIS 8-28
INSPECTION
TIRE WHEEL .
AND DISASSEMBLY
Play
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . , . . . . . Refer to page 8-31. BEARINGS Rotate the inner race by hand to inspect for Replace the bearing if
Inspect the play of the wheel bearings by hand while they are in the wheel. abnormal there is anything noise and smooth unusual. rotation.
Drive out the wheel bearings by using a proper tool. (Refer to page 8-2.)
CAUTION: The removed bearings should be replaced with new ones.
AXLE
SHAFT
Using a dial gauge, check the axle shaft for runout and replace it if the runout exceeds the limit. 09900-20606 09900-20701 09900-21304 : Dial gauge (l/100) : Magnetic stand : V-block set (100 mm) in)
WHEEL Make sure that the wheel runout exceed the service limit. checked as shown does not An excessive runout is usually due to fails to reduce the runout,
worn or loose wheel bearings and can be reduced by replacing the bearings. If bearing replacement replace the wheel. Service limit (Axial and Radial) : 2.0 mm (0.08 in)
WHEEL or wear.
DAMPER
AND
O-RING
Inspect the wheel dampers and driven joint O-ring for damage

Reassemble and remount removal points: WHEEL
l
the rear wheel in the reverse order of Pay attention to the following
and
disassembly.
BEARING
Apply grease to the bearings before installing. model) : SUZUKI : SUZUKI SUPER GREASE SUPER GREASE A
I
(For U.S.A. 99000-25030 99000-25010
(For the other models) A
Install the wheel bearings by using the special tool. : Bearing installer set
09924-84510 NOTE:
First install the right wheel bearing, then install the left wheel bearing. The sealed cover on the bearing is positioned outside.
Left
IX)
Right
Left
Right
Bear ing installer Spacer
CHASSIS 8-30
WHEEL
l
DAMPER
AND
O-RING
install the dampers.
NOTE: If soap water is applied around easier.

l
the damper,
it makes the job
Apply grease to the O-ring before installing the driven joint.
DRIVEN
l
JOINT THREAD LOCK SUPER 1303 to the driven joint
Apply
stopper bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. 99000-32030 Tightening : THREAD LOCK SUPER 1303
torque : 8 - 12 N-m (0.8 - 1.2 kg-m, 6.0 - 8.5 lb-ft)
BRAKE matter. Apply
DISC
Make sure that the brake disc is clean and free of any greasy THREAD LOCK SUPER 1360 to the disc bolts
and tighten them to the specified torque. 99000-32130 Tightening : THREAD torque LOCK SUPER 1360
: 18 - 28 N-m (1.8 - 2.8 kg-m, 13.0 - 20.0 lb-ft)
FINAL
l
GEAR
SPLINE installing the H : Grease
Apply
grease to the final gear spline before
rear wheel.
(For U.S.A. model) 99000-25030 99000-25010 : SUZUKI : SUZUKI SUPER SUPER GREASE GREASE A A (For the other models)
Tightening
torque (6.0 - 9.6 kg-m, 43.5 - 69.5 lb-ft)
Axle nut : 60 - 96 N-m Rear torque link nut : 22 - 35 N-m (2.2 - 3.5 kg-m, 16.0 - 25.5 lb-ft)
8-31
CHASSIS
TIRE AND WHEEL

TIRE REMOVAL
The most critical For tire removal factor of a tubeless tire is the seal between the wheel rim and the tire bead. Because of this, we recommend using a tire changer which tools are required. is also more efficient than tire levers.
the following
0 @
Tire changer Operation
stand
arm
@ Tire lever @ Center shaft roller
@ Bead pushing @ Rim guide 0 @ OC Bead
roller
breaker
Rim protector ore remover gauge
@ Air pressure $$ Tire lubricant
Remove
the valve core from
the valve stem, and deflate
the
>I
tire completely. NOTE: Mark the tire with chalk to note the position and rotational direction @ of the tire. @ of the valve
Place the center with
shaft 0 0.
to the wheel,
and fix the wheel
the rim holder
Attach
the operation
arm @ to the center
shaft.
Attach mount
the bead breaker the other
@to
the operation
arm, and disover and dis-
> I=k G?
mount the bead from the rim. Turn the wheel bead from the rim.
Install
the rim guide
roller 8. @, and raise the tire bead with the
Install the rim protector tire lever 0.
Set the tire lever against other
the operation
arm, and rotate the to remove the
lever around the rim. Repeat this procedure bead from the rim.
8-33 CHASSIS
INSPECTION
WHEEL Wipe inspect observed, Any Wheel in). off any rubber the wheel replace substance rim. it with or flaws (Axial a new in the or rust from wheel. bead seating area. 2.0 mm (0.08 the wheel, items and is If any one of the following -
A distortion scratches runout
or crack. & Radial) of more than
TIRE Thoroughly inspect the removed tire, and if any one of the following items is observed, do not repair the tire. Replace with a new one. * A puncture or a split whose total length or diameter exceeds 6.0 mm (0.24 in). * A scratch or split at the side wall. * Tread depth less than 1.6 mm (0.06 in) in the front tire and less than 2.0 mm (0.08 in) in the rear tire * Ply separation. * Tread separation. * Tread wear is extraordinarily * Scratches at the bead. * Cord is cut. * * Damage Abnormality from skidding in the inner (flat liner. deformed or distributed around the tire.
spots).
NOTE: When repairing a flat tire, folio w the repair instructions and use only recommended repairing materials.
VALVE Inspect replace scratches.
INSPECTION the valve with after the tire is removed if the seal rubber from the rim, and or a new valve has any splits
Inspect if the
the removed seal rubber
valve
core and replace deformed
with
the new one
is abnormally
or worn.
Seal
CHASSIS 8-34
VALVE Then
INSTALLATION the valve in the rim. hole must be cleaned off. install the valve
Any dust or rust around
CAUTION: When installing the valve, tighten the nut @ by hand as much tighten
Wheel
as possible. distort
Holding
the nut @ under this condition, packing and cause an air leak.
the lock nut 0. the rubber
Do not overtighten
the nut @ as this may
TIRE MOUNTING
l
/I
or neutral soapy liquid to the
Apply
a special tire lubricant
tire bead. CAUTION: Never apply grease, oil or gasoline to the tire bead.
. When arrow
installing
the tire, make certain of wheel
that the directional and align the as shown.

Valve
faces the direction
rotation
balancing
mark of the tire with
the valve
l l
Set the bead pushing Rotate the operation completely. Remove valve the wheel
roller 0. arm around the rim to mount the bead bead first, then the upper bead. and install the
Do the bottom
from the tire changer, stem.
core in the valve
NOTE: Before installing the valve core, inspect the core. -
Bounce easier.
the tire several
times
while
rotating.
This makes inflation
the tire bead expand
outwards,
and thus
makes
NOTE: Before inflating, the valve stem. confirm that the balance mark lines up with
Pump
up the tire with
air.
WARNING: Do not inflate the tire to more than400 burst with sufficient kPa(4.0 kg/cm*. 56 seit. psi). The tire could force to cause
vere injury. Never stand directly over the tire while inflating NOTE: Check tance the rim line between cast on the tire side walls. rim varies,
It must be If the disthis indiI
equidistant
from the wheel rim all the way around. the rim line and wheel and unseat seated.
cates that the bead is not properly the tire completely, the bead
l
If this is so, deflate
the bead for both sides. Coat
with lubricant, tire is properly to the balance
and try again. seated to the wheel rim, adjust Correct the the
After wheel
air-pressure
recommended
pressure.
if necessary.
WARNING: * Do not run a repaired tire more than 50 km/h (30 mph) within 24 hours be completely * Do not exceed after tire repairing, cured. 130 km/h (80 mph) with a repaired tire. since the patch may not
REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS AND SWINGARM

For the ! other a?, bY models For E-01,03,28,33 mcrlolc
: Apply
SUPER torque
GREASE
A.
Tightening
ui
L.L J.3
,16.0
22.5
100-130
1 IO-13
172.5-94.0
REMOVAL
1. Remove the seat and frame covers. 2. Remove the rear wheel. (Refer to page 8-26.) 3. Disconnect the union receptacle. NOTE: Hang the open end of the brake hose to the upper part of the frame by using a string, etc. to stop spilling of brake fluid. CAUTION: Immediately and completely wipe off any brake fluid contactThe fluid reacts chemically ing to any part of the motorcycle. them severely. 4. Remove the right and left rear shock absorbers. the brake hose from the caliper by removing bolt and catch the brake fluid in a suitable
with paint, plastics and rubber materials, etc. and will damage
8-37
CHASSIS
5. Remove
the final gear case along with the propeller
shaft
by removing the three nuts, NOTE: When reinstalling NO. 1207B/NO. the final gear case apply 1215 to the mating SUZUKI BOND rear surface between
swingarm and final gear case. (For U.S.A. 99104-31140 99000-31110 Tightening model) : SUZUKI : SUZUKI torque BOND BOND NO. 1207B NO. 1215 -
: 35 - 45 N.m (3.5 - 4.5 kg-m, 25.5 - 32.5 lb-ft)
6. Remove footrests.
the right and left footrest
guards along with the
7. Loosen the shaft drive boot clamp screw and slide the boot forward. Remove the swingarm pivot cover and take out the universal joint from the swingarm. 8. Remove the right side swingarm pivot cover and remove the swingarm pivot shaft nut.
9. Draw out the swingarm pivot shaft.
10. Remove the rear swingarm from the chassis. 11. Remove the swingarm dust seals and washers, left and right.
CHASSIS 8-38
INSPECTION
SWINGARM the frame, anything PIVOT BEARINGS Inspect the swingarm pivot bearings for wear while they are in Rotate the spacer by hand to inspect for abnormal rotation. Replace the bearings if there is noise and smooth
unusual. Also replace the spacer if necessary.
To remove the bearings:

l l
Remove the right and left spacers and center spacer. Using the special tools, remove the swingarm bearings from the pivoting hole.
09930-30102 09923-74510 CAUTION:
: Sliding shaft : Bearing remover
The removed bearings should be replaced with new ones. DUST SEAL Inspect the dust seals, if they are found to be damaged, replace them with new ones.
REAR
SHOCK
ABSORBER
Inspect the rear shock absorber unit for oil leakage or damage. If there is any defect, replace the unit with a new one.

Reassemble and remount the swingarm steps: and rear shock and removal, aband sorbers in the reverse order of disassembly also carry out the following SWINGARM
l
BEARING bearings into the swingarm pivot by using the
Press the
special tool. 09941-34513 : Steering race installer
NOTE: When reinstalling outside. the bearing, stamped mark of bearing is positioned
Apply
grease to the spacers, bearings, washers and dust seals.
(For U.S.A. model) 99000-25030 99000-25010

l
: SUZUKI : SUZUKI
SUPER SUPER
GREASE GREASE
A A
Tighten the swingarm pivot nut to the specified torque. torque : 100 (10 130 N-m 13 kg-m, 72.5 - 94.0 lb-ft)
Tightening
FOOTREST
l
GUARDS LOCK mounting SUPER 1333B/1322 them to the to the bracket bolts and tighten
Apply footrest
THREAD
specified torque. Tightening torque : 27 - 43 N.m (2.7 - 4.3 kg-m, 19.5 - 31.0 lb-h) (For U.S.A. model) 99000-32020 99000-32110 FINAL
l
: THREAD : THREAD GEAR
LOCK SUPER LOCK SUPER CASE NO. 1207B/NO.
1333B 1322
BEVEL
Apply
SUZUKI
BOND
1215 to the mating
surface. (For U.S.A. 99104-31140 99000-31110

l
model) : SUZUKI : SUZUKI BOND BOND NO. 1207B NO. 1215 grease to the joint part of
Apply
Lithium
Base Molybdenum shaft.
universal joint and propeller

l
Install the propeller
shaft and final gear case. nut
Final gear case mounting Tightening torque
: 35 - 45 N-m (3.5 - 4.5 kg-m, 25.5 - 32.5 lb-ft)
FINAL INSPECTION AND ADJUSTMENT

After * installing the rear suspension and rear wheel, the followare required before driving motorcycle. ing adjustments Rear brake * Tire pressure * Shock absorbers
CHASSIS
840
REAR SWINGARM PIVOT
G : Apply SUPER GREASE A. Tightening torque Item N.m kg-m lb-ft 72.5 - 94.0
REAR
SHOCK
ABSORBERS
absorber
(left)
Tightening torque Item

@ & @ 22N-m35
kg-m
2.2 3.5
lb-ft
16.0 - 25.5
NOTE: inner Outer washer OD washer OD : 30.0 mm (1.2 in)
: 24.0 mm (0.95 in)
841
CHASSIS
SUSPENSION SETTING
When should reinstalling be equalized. absorbers are adjustable according to the rider s requirement. Use the following table to the rear shock absorbers, make sure that both spring preload and damping force
Rear shock
adjust the rear shock absorbers. REAR SHOCK ABSORBER models Item Solo riding Dual riding I Spring preload 2 4 I Damping force 1 3 (rebound) I I SETTING TABLE
For E-01, 03, 28,33
For the other
models Damping Item Spring preload Rebound Compression 2 3 and carring and carring load (30 kg, 66 Ibs) load (30 kg, 66 Ibs) 1 1 , 5
I
force
Solo riding Dual riding Solo riding Dual riding
2 3
Rebound
side adjuster
Compression adiuster
side
For
E-01,03,28,
33 models
For the other models
__
~__~
CONTENTS_
__~~
~_~
~~~~
~ ) i (
TROUBLESHOOTING WIRING DIAGRAM
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .g_ 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .g_ g
, ~ 1 (
CABLE, HARNESS AND HOSE ROUTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g-12 SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .g_26 TIGHTENING TORQUE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . *. . .g-29
SERVICE DATA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g-32 _ __~ __~ ~ ~
9-1 SERVICING
INFORMATION
TROUBLESHOOTING
ENGINE
Complaint Engine will not start, or is hart to start. Compression Symptom too low out of adjustment. Adjust. Repair Adjust. worn. Replace. Replace, Consult or rebore. electrical complaints. or replace. and possible causes Remedy
1. Valve clearance 3. Valves mistiming.
2. Worn valve guides or poor seating of valves. 4. Piston rings excessively 5. Worn-down 6. Starter cylinder motor
bores.
cranks too slowly.
Plugs not sparking 1. Fouled spark plugs. ignition coil. cord. unit. Clean. Clean and dry. Replace. Replace. Replace. 2. Wet spark plug. 3. Defective
4. Open or short in high-tension 5. Defective pick-up
coil or ignitor
No fuel reaching the carburtors 1. Clogged hole in the fuel tank cap. 2. Clogged or defective 3. Defective 4. Defective 6. Defective Engine stalls easily. 1. Fouled fuel pump. carburetor pick-up float valve. pipe. coil/igniter. fuel cock. Clean. Clean or replace. Replace. Replace. Clean. Replace. Clean. unit. Replace. Replace. pump relay Replace. Clean. Adjust.
5. Clogged fuel pipe or suction
coil, ignition
spark plugs. pick-up coil or ignitor
2. Defective
3. Clogged fuel pipe. 4. Defective fuel pump/fuel 5. Clogged jets in carburetors. 6. Vave clearance Noisy engine. out of adjustment.
Excessive valve chatter 1. Valve clearance 2. Weakened 3. Camshaft journal too large. valve springs. worn and burnt. Adjust. Replace. Replace. or broken
Noise appears to come from pistons 1. Pistons or cylinders 2. Combustion worn down. fouled with carbon. Replace. Clean. Replace. Replace. chambers
3. Piston pins or piston pin bore worn. 4. Piston rings or ring grooves worn. Noise seems to come from timing 1. Stretched 3. Tension chain. adjuster not working. chain
Replace. Replace. Replace.
2. Worn sprockets.
Noise seems to come from clutch 1. ,I,_.._ __I!___ _z __.._r_.._L_lr __ L..L worn sp~~nes 0~ counrersnarr or r~uo. 2. Worn teeth of clutch 3. Distorted clutch plates.
O^_L_^ naPlace. Replace. Replace. Replace.
plates, driven and drive. clutch push rod bearing
4. Worn/Damaged
SERVICING
INFORMATION
9-2
Complaint _ Noisy engine.
Symptom
and possible causes
I
Replace. Replace. Replace. Adjust.
Remedy
Noise seems to come from crankshaft 1. Rattling 3. Journal 4. Th!U? bearings due to wear. bearing worn and burnt. c!earance too !arge; 2. Big-end bearings worn and burnt.
Noise seems to come from transmission
1. Gears worn or rubbing.

2. 4. Badly worn splines. gears worn or rubbing. bearings. Badly worn 3. Primary
Replace. Replace. Replace. Replace.
Noise seems to come from water pump. 1. Too much play on pump drive chain 2. Worn or damaged 3. Impeller touches drive chain/sprocket. crankcase. Adjust. Replace. Replace. Replace Replace. Replace. Repair. cylinder. Replace. Replace. while others are not. plates. Replace. Replace. Replace. Replace. lever. Adjust. Replace. Replace. Repair or replace. Replace. Repiace. Replace. stopper. Replace. Adjust. Repair or replace. Replace. Adjust. Replace. unit. in carbs. Replace. Adjust. Clean or adjust. Replace. Replace. Adjust. Adjust. Clean or adjust. Replace.
_
Slipping clutch 1. Weakened 3. Distorted clutch springs. pressure plate. plates, driven and drive. clutch 2. Worn or distorted
_
Dragging clutch 1. Leakage of clutch fluid. 2. Worn or damaged 3. Damaged master cylinder/clutch hose. oil seal/clutch
4. Some clutch springs weakened 5. Distorted
pressure plate or clutch gearshift cam. forks.
_
Transmission not shift will , 1. Broken 2. Distorted gearshift
3. Too much play on gearshift 4. Worn gearshift pawl/guide.
_
Transmission will 1. Broken 2. Shift return spring on shift shaft. or sticky. forks. not shift back. shafts are rubbing
3. Distorted Transmission jumps out of gear. i. 2.
or worn gearshift
Worn shifting Distorted
gears on drive shaft or countershaft. forks.
or worn gearshift stopper
3. Weakened Engine idles poorly.
spring on gearshift
1. Valve clearance 3. Defective 5. Defective 6. Defective
out of adjustment.
2. Poor seating of valves. valve guides. ignition pick-up coil. coil or ignitor 4. Spark plug gaps too wide.
7. Float-chamber
fuel level out of adjustment of carburetors. pump relay.
8. Clogged jets or imbalance 9. Engine runs poor!y in highDefective fuel pump/fuel
1. Valve springs weakened. 2. Va!ve tjmjno J not of adiustment. _-,-__ .._.._. --3. Spark plug gaps too narrow. of carburetors. 4. Clogged jets or imbalance 5. Defective ignition coil.
speed range.
9-3 SERVICING
INFORMATION
Complaint
c--:....
cllylllr;
Symptom
c
and possible causes

RaP.13.-CI I upaY.,.
Remedy
_...._
lull>
poorly
in high-
7u:
IO.
nnf.-.r+:..r. ..:.-.L I,_ LII I ;nn;+rrr *h-i+ Izjl~LL,~ I-G-~ P.,.;, fir 1xJ L#III. Float-chamber fuel level too element. resulting in inadequate fuel low.
Adjust. Clean. Clean, and prime.
speed range.
8. Clogged 9. Clogged supply Defective
air cleaner fuel pipe,
to carburetors. fuel pump. oil in the engine. Replace.
Dirty or heavy smoke. 2. Worn 3. Worn 5. Worn piston rings or cylinders. or scuffed. valve guides. walls scored stem seal. valves stems. 1. Too much engine Check window, Replace. Replace. Rebore Replace. Replace. Adjust. Replace. A-1:.. * H SL. , Replace. Repair. Adjust Clean. Adjust. r,a?.n I. UlGcil Retighten Retighten Drain and balance or replace. the cart or replace. or replace. with level inspection out excess oil. exhaust drain
4. Cylinder 6. Defective Engine lacks power.
1. Loss of valve clearance.
2. Weakened valve springs. -:__ _..A _I _Î:.._..-^-& B llrnllly L cJ sur,eIIl. dl I , 3. \,_I.._ *

4. Worn 6. Spark piston rings or cylinders. of valves. 5. Poor seating 7. Clogged 8.
0 1;.
plug gaps incorrect. jets in carburetors.
Float-chamber fuel level out of adjustment. r,r\nn0r( a,, rln=n.,r al0m0n+ q; \.IGcallIz, Gil~jlll~jlll, luyyr; Carburetor much balancing air from engine fuel adjuster pipe. loose. intake
11. Sucking 12. Too 13. 14. Engine overheats.
oil in the engine.
out excess oil.
Defective Defective
pump. coil/igniter unit/ignition crowns. coil.
Replace. Replace. Clean. Add oil circuit. oil. or clean.
pick-up
1. Heavy
carbon
deposit
on piston
2. Not enough 3. Defective
oil in the engine. or clogged
oil pump
Replcae Adjust. Retighten Change.
4. Fuel level too 5. Suck air from 6. Use incorrect 7. Defective
low in float intake engine pipes. oil.
chambers.
or replace. section.
cooling
system.
See radiator
SHAFT
DRIVE
Symptom and possible causes bevel gear and Refill. oil seal) 2. 4. Drive and driven tooth bevel gears damaged contact. or worn. Replace. Adjust. Adjust. Replace. shaft area.
RPnl.PP
Complaint Noisy shaft drive
Remedy
Noise seems to come from secondary final bevel gear assemblies. 1. Oil level too low.
(Check oil jet/replace
i
3. Excessive Improper 5. Damage backlash. to bearings.
Noise seems to come from propeller
1 I_
Drnnallov I pc
chcaf* ~oni~~ovcal , ;nint 511(11L lllrllll L
rlom~nd U ayG.
I p,L U.
Replace. Refill. (Replace oil seal) Replace.
2. Propeller 3. Insufficient
shaft
splines
damaged
or worn. or worn.
lubricant. surface damaged
4. Cam dog contacting
SERVICING
INFORMATION
9-4
Complaint No power transmitted from engine to rear wheel. Secondary bevel gear
Symptom
and possible causes shaft.
1: Broken propeller
2. Broken 3. Broken 1. Damage 2. Damage 3. Loose bearing gear teeth.
or damaged to oil seals. to O-rings.
input/output
cam dog.
and final bevel gear assemblies oil leak.
bolts case.
on secondary
gear case and final
gear
r i1
Remedy
Replace. Replace. Replace. Replace. Replace. Retighten.
=l j
CARBURETOR
Complaint Trouble starting. with
I I
1. Starter 2. Starter 3. Air
Symptom
and possible causes Clean. Clean. between starter body and Check adjust
Remedy
jet is clogged. pipe is clogged. from a joint
1
starter body and gasket.
leaking
carburetor. 4. Air joint. 5. Starter Idling or low-speed trouble 1. Pilot 2. Air joint, 3. Pilot 4. Starter
Mdi~~m. ......_... nr hinh-. . ..=.. 1- Main .
carburetor
for tightness,
and replace and adjust.
leaking
from
carburetor s
joint
or vacuum
gauge
Check
plunger jet, pilot
is not operating air jet are clogged carburetor s
properly. or loose. vacuum gauge
Check Check Check
and adjust. and clean. and adjust.
leaking
from
joint,
or starter. outlet or bypass is clogged. closed. Check Check Check Check properly. Check and clean. and adjust. and clean. and clean. throttle valve for
plunger iet - I-- nr main valve
is not fully
air jet is clogged.
speed trouble.
2. Needle 3. Throttle 4. Filter
jet is clogged. not operating
operation. is clogged. balancing is worn vavle adjuster loose. Check and clean. and balance the carbs
5. Carburetor Overflow and fuel 1~: Needle 2. Spring 3. Float 4. Foreign valve
Retighten Replace. Replace. Check
or damaged. is broken. properly. to needle pipe. unit/ignition coil. valve.
level fluctuations.
in needle matter
is not working
and adjust. float height.
has adhered high or low. air vent coil/igniter
Clean. Adjust Clean. Replace. Replace.
5. Fuel level is too 6. Clogged 7. Defective 8. Defective carburetor fuel
pump.
pick-up
9-5 SERVICING
INFORMATION
RADIATOR
Complaint Engine overheats. Symptom and possible causes Remedy Add coolant. Clean. Replace. Repair or replace. Replace. Clean. circuit. drive chain. Bleed out air. Replace. Replace. position. Replace. Replace. Put on the radiator cover.
1. Not enough cooling water. 2. 4. Radiator Faulty core is clogged with dirt or trashes. thermostat, cooling fan. passage. pump/pump water. stuck in closed position. 3. Erratic
5. Defective
thermo-switch. in the cooling cooling
6. Clogged water 7. Air trapped 8. Defective 9. Use incorrect Engine overcools. 1. Erratic 2. water
thermostat,
stuck in full-open
Defective
thermo-switch. cold weather.
3. Extremely
ELECTRICAL
Complaint No sparking or 1. Defective 2. Defective 3. Defective Spark plugs soon become fouled with carbon. 1. Mixture 2. Symptom ignition and possible causes coil. Replace. Replace. unit. Replace. Adjust Adjust Change. Clean. Replace with Replace. worn. of valve stems in valve guides. Replace. Replace. Replace. Replace with Tune up. unit. Replace. Retighten. Adjust carburetors. cold type plugs. hot type plugs. carburetors. carburetors. Remedy
poor sparking.
spark plugs. pick-up too rich. coil or ignitor
Idling speed set too high. gasoline. in air cleaner.
3. Incorrect 4. Dirty
element
5. Spark plugs too cold. Spark plugs become fouled too soon. 1. Worn piston rings. 2. Pistons or cylinders 3. Excessive clearance 4. Worn stem oil seal. Spark plug electrodes overheat or burn. 1. Spark plugs too hot. pick-up too lean. coil or ignitor
2. The engine overheats. 3. Defective 5. Mixture 4. Spark plugs loose.
Generator not charge.
does
1. Open or short in lead wires, or loose lead connections. 2. Shorted, 3. Shorted grounded or open generator regulator/rectifier. or open-circuited or coils.
Repair or replace or retighten. Replace. Replace. Repair, or retighten.
or panctured
Generator
charge, rate
1. Lead wires tend to get shorted loosely connected 2. Grounded 3. Defective at terminals.
but charging is below the specification.
or open-circuited regulator/rectifier.
stator coils of generator
Replace. Replace. Add distilled water between the level lines.
4. Not enough electrolyte
in the battery.
5. Defective
cell plates in the battery.
Replace the battery.
SERVICING
INFORMATION
9-6
Complaint ~_-__*-_ eeriitr overcharges. I I. 2.
Symptom
and possible causes R,z.nl=r~ I my .. damaged Replace.
Remedy
the .I .I hrrttew , YY.LIl
I-+rr.rr, .b.,..+ r;,n,,;+ III LIIG CILICI 1111~ 111~, >,I, L-LIIL,L ;n +I.%-c\I++P.\,I. Resistor element or defective. in the regulator/rectifier
3.
Regulator/rectifier
poorly
grounded.
Clean and tighten connection.
ground
Unstable charging.
1. Lead wire insulation resulting 2. Generator 3. Defective
frayed
due to vibration,
Repair or replace.
in intermittent internally
shorting. Replace. Replace. Recharge Replace. on commutator

rwitrh I....-...
shorted.
regulator/rectifier. run down. switch contacts. in
Starter
button
1. Battery 2. Defective
or replace.
is not effective.
3. Brushes not seating properly
Repair or replace.
RPnlarP -r- ---
starter motor. 4, nof-r+Tt.a r+Dr+-r rolQxr/c+~r+~r int~rlnrk Y.zlczbLIG JL(1, L-8 ,r,r;ly,aru, &.,I IEIL\1III.
BATTERY -_ _- - --Complaint Sulfation, white acidic subSymptom and possible causes Add distilled Remedy water, if the battery and sulfation has has
1. Not enough electrolyte.
powdery
not been damaged not advanced 2. Battery condition case is cracked. has been left in a run-down for a long time. eiectroiyte (Foreign matter mixed If ** ..suifation the electrolyte, the battery 3. Battery
stance or spots on surfaces of cell plates.
too far, and recharge.
Replace the battery. Replace the battery.
4. Contaminated
has not advanced
too far,
has enteres the battery with the electrolyte.)
and become
try to restore the battery recharging detached
by replacing it fully with S.G. ant
from the motorelectrolyte
cycle and then adjusting Battery runs 1. The charging method is not correct. Check the generator, circuit connections, adjustments operation. 2. Cell plates have lost much of their active material battery as a result of over-charging. condition exists within the of due to excessive accumulation caused by the high electrolyte 3. A short-circuit sediments S.G. 4. Electrolyte S.G. is too low. Recharge the battery electrolyte 5. Contaminated electrolyte. battery 6. Battery is too old. S.G. Replace the battery, charging system. Replace the battery. to obtain
regulator/rectifier and make necessary specified charging
down quickly.
and correct
the
fully and adjust
Replace the electrolyte,
recharge the
and then adjust S.G.
Replace the battery.
9-7 SERVICING
INFORMATION
Complaint Reversed battery polarity.
Symptom The battery way round charged
and possible causes the wrong
Remedy Replace the battery nect the battery and be sure to con-
has been connected
in the system, so that it is being
properly.
in the reverse direction. rate too low or too high. should be to avoid Replace the battery.
Battery. sulfation
Charging
(When not in use, batteries recharged sulfation.) Battery electrolyte
at least once a month
excessive or insuffitoo high or

100 tony In
Keep the electrolyte
up to the prescribed
cient, or its specific gravity too low. TL_ I-_**_-..

I ne uacrery IBTI
level, or adjust the S.G. by consulting the battery maker direction. s D--l___ *I__ l--r*__. :c L--l,.
I_=* ..-.._-_I
unuseu
I__ *__ I___ !_

ror
_..ll_r__i neplace Lilt: aLLery, IT auly s lraIe .
cold climate. Battery discharges 1. Dirty 2. container top and sides. or elecClean. Change the electrolyte the battery maker s by consulting
too rapidly.
Impurities trolyte
in the electrolyte
S.G. is too high.
directions.
CHASSIS
Complaint Handling L__.... neavy. feels too Symptom and possible causes Adjust. ~,,I^,^ rltqJI.lUz. Replace. Adjust. Adjust. Adjust. Repair or replace. tire. Replace. Adjust. Adjust or replace. Remedy
1. Steering stem nut overtightened. 2. \*,-- Î,^ b.-..:-- ^_ ^^^ :.. *--:-Ill lllll tXY,ll&j 1 IdlrC III rrearlllg 3. Distorted steering stem. steering races. 4. Not enough pressure in tires. 5. Overtightened
^+^SUZ III.
Steering
oscillation.
1. Loss of balance between

2. Bent front 3. Bent front 4. fork.
right and left suspensions.
axle or crooked
Loose steering stem bearings. tires or wrong tire pressure.
5. Worn or incorrect Wobbly front wheel. 1. Distorted 2. Worn front 3. Defective 4. wheel.
Replace. Replace. Replace. Retighten. Retighten. Replace. Replace. Refill. Replace. Replace. Remove excess oil. I-- _I~__ Replace. evenly in forks stem and Adjust. tire.
wheel bearings. or incorrect
Loose nut on axle.
5. Loose nuts on rear shock. 6. Worn swingarm Front suspension 1. Weakened bearings.
springs.
too soft.
2. Not enough fork oil. 3. Wrong weight fork oil.
Front
suspension
1. Fork oil too viscous. 2. Too much fork oil. 3. Front 4. axie bent.
too stiff.
Fork tubes not adjusted steering stem head.
Noisy
front
1. Not enough fork oil. 2. Loose nuts on suspension.
Refill. Retighten.
suspension.
SERVICING
INFORMATION
9-8
I
I
Complaint
Wnhhlw , . . VI..,. ,PSP whmal .. . . . . .. 1
I
Symptom nirtnrtOr( YllLVl Lb

whool ..ll.,.,l
and possible causes

rim I1111.
Remedy
2. Worn rear wheel bearings or swingarm bearings. 3. Defective 5. Rear suspension or incorrect tire. Replace. Replace. Retighten. Replace. improperly set. Reset. Replace. set. Adjust. Replace. Replace. bearings. Replace. Retighten. Replace. 4. Worn swingarm bearings.
Loose nuts on rear suspension. spring.
1. Weakened 2.
Rear suspension adjuster
3. Oil leakage of rear shock absorber. Rear suspension 1. Rear suspension adjuster 2. Shock absorber 3. Swingarm bent. 4. Worn swingarm improperly
shaft bent.
1. Loose nut on rear suspension. 2. Worn swingarm bearings.
BRAKES
Complaint Poor braking. _ Symptom and possible causes in the reservoir. Remedy Refill to level mark. Bleed air out. Replace. lever/pedal. system. Adjust. Repair or replace. Replace. Clean disc and pads. Replace. into hydraulic system. surface. Bleed air. Repair surface with Modify Replace. axle. Tighten Replace. in brake fluid. port of master cylinder. Replace brake fluid. Disassemble cylinder. Set correctly. rla?.n cl,, l, II.cILG. UlGiall .Y.nr(I,,hr;,.9+0 Excessive brake lever stroke. 1. Air entered 2. 3. Leakage of brake fluid. Insufficient Improper into hydraulic brake fluid. quality of brake fluid. of connection joints, system. Bleed air. Replenish fluid to specified fluid. torque. ^.._ cup. level; bleed air. Replace with correct Tighten to specified and clean master to specified torque. pad fitting. sandpaper.
1. Not enough brake fluid 2. Air trapped
intake fluid circuit.
3. Pads/shoe worn down. 4. Too much play on brake Insufficient brake power.
1. Leakage of brake fluid from hydraulic

2. Worn pads/shoe. 3. Oil adhesion 4. Worn disc. 5. Air entered
on engaging surface of pads/shoe.
Brake squeaking.
1. Carbon 2. Tilted
adhesion pad.
on pad/shoe
3. Damaged 4.
wheel bearing. axle or rear-wheel
Loose front-wheel Foreign material
5. Worn pads/shoe. 6.
7. Clogged return
1. Insufficient 2. Cracked
tightening
hose.
Replace. 0-eI--_. ^:^&-_ __-I/_ epldue pJ slrl dll,I
9-9 SERVICING
INFORMATION
FOR U.S.A. AND CANADA MODELS
r
r
....... ....... ....... .......
. . . .&aa
oa3>iZGii5
SERVICING
INFORMATION
9-10
FOR W-GERMANY
MODEL
%I
el
!
I
...... ...... ...... ......
g>p>rnSW
~i?i,Z~~ei
. _.
0 R w.. Y BlBr B/G B/R
Black
. Blue
, Orange . .
B BI Br G Gr Lbl Lg
Brown Green . Gray Light blue Light green
Orange Red White Yellow Black with Grown tracer Black with Green tracer Black with Red tracer
B/W B/Y BIIW G/Y O/B OIBI O/G
Black with White tracer Black with Yellow tracer Blue with White tracer Green with Yellow tracer Orange with Black tracer Orange with Blue tracer Orange with Green tracer
O/R O/W O/Y R/W W/B Y/G
Orange with Red tracer with White tracer Orange with Yellow tracer Red with White tracer White with Black tracer Yellow with Green tracer
Throttle hose r cleaner Breather hose hose (front carb.)
Fuel pump
vacuum
hose
Fuel pump
& carburetor
hose
ti Air hose /
Carburetor Y Throttle cable (rear carb.) L Starter cable (rear carb.)
Carburetor
le2
Clamp lhtening _._.~ ~\ \
Air cleaner
Starter
cable
It
Air cleaner drain hose (front) Breather hose
pipe
VIEW
tank water Battery breather diator Clam/p overflow
drain hose hose
hose
Inside Rear brake Regulator/rectifier lead light switch lead
of the
headlight
housing
Clamp
Wiring
harness
& front switch
brake lead
light
switch
lead
hose
rectifier
lead
VIEW
Rear brake light switch
Battery Crankcase C\
------
Starter relay cap
Clamp
Throttle
cable
Clutch Main wiring harness
cable
!rottle
cable
(fr,qnt,carb.)
Throttle cable
Throttle Idle synchronizing cable
cable
Clutch
cable
Apply SUZUKI BOND No. 1207B/No. the groove of grommet.
1215
to
Clamp (Except Glide
/ for U.S.A.
model)
Clamp (Only for U.S.A. model) Oil pressure
I I
switch /
NOTE: (*I Apply a small quantity of THREAD LOCK 1342 to the respective securing screws and bolts.
9-17
SERVICING
INFORMATION
HIGH TENSION
CORD ROUTING
SERVICING INFORMATION
9-18
SPEEDOMETER
CABLE ROUTING
Cable guide
H Cable guide
-Cable
guide
9-19 SERVICING
INFORMATION
FRONT . .._._.
RR4KF I.., .._
HnSF ..VVb
ROUTING
After the brake
touching
SEAT LOCK CABLE ROUTING

-
Front
SERVICING
INFORMATION
9-22
FUEL HOSE ROUTING
Align the white painted marks. \
\.
\ Cla
Clip
,/ ,with the connection of the . radiator inlet pipe. Clamp Clip bleeder plug \ \.
/-_-1
Fitting
allowance
Tightening
torque
~~~
SERVICING
INFORMATION
9-24
CENTER STAND
SPRING
i i
I 8
I : : :
L, f , \
.
I. \
\i
--
NOTE: * Apply SUZIUKI SUPER GREASE A to the side-stand pivot. * Be sure to bring the long arm side of the spring to top when fitting.
SERVICING
INFORMATION
9-26
SPECIAL
TOOLS
19900-0040 1 L type hexagon wrench ;et
09900-00410 Hexagon bit wrench set
09900-06105 Snap ring pliers
(_&z@?
q&
F$$f$
39900-09003 Impact driver set
09900-I 87 10 12 mm Hexagon
wrench
09900-20101 or 09900-20102 Vernier calipers
09900-20202 Micrometer (25 - 50 mm)
09900-20204 Micrometer (75-IOOmm)
0990@2Q2Q6 Micrometer
09900-20602 09900-20508 09900-20605
09900-20606
9-27 SERVICING
INFORMATION
0991574510
09915-74530 I pressure
gauge
09920607 Clutch
10
sleeve hub holder
0992 l-20200 Bearing remover
0992 I-202 10 Bearing remover
09921-21810
09921-21820 Bearing retainer
wrench
SERVICING
INFORMATION
9-28
nnn9n JJL-t-I-rd
-lAE,A
I
n0034-74E3n
IL--,
_.,L
(-po1-7cc
d.JLY-
-rdI
Handle
Oil seal remover
Bearing installer
39924-74570 Final driven gear bearing installer and remover
09924-84510 Bearing installer set
09930-l 1910 Torx wrench
09930-13210 Socket wrench
09930-14530 Universal joint
09930-30102 Sliding shaft
09930-30720 Rotor remover (For U.S.A. model)
09930-34970 Rotor remover
09930-40113 Rotor holder
09931-94430 lgnitor checker (Digital type)
09940-14911 Steering stem nut wrench
\- -. //./^
~/
/
/
09940-34520
T-handle (Front fork disassembler) 09940-34592 Attachment G (Front fork disassembler) 09940-50113 Front fork oil seal installer 09940-927 10 Spring scale 09941-34513 Steering race installer
09941-50110 Bearing remover
09941-54911 Bearing outer race remover
09941.64510 Bearing and oil seal remover
09941-74910 Steering bearing installer
19941-84510 3earing remover
NOTE: When order the special tool, please confirm whether it is available or not.
09943-74111 Fork oil level gauge
9-29
SERVICING
INFORMATION
TIGHTENING
ENGINE I
ITEM Cylinder head cover
TORQUE
N-m bolt M6 M8 921 -25 35 - 40 8n z-
kg-m 11 0.9 1.1 2.5
lb-ft 6.5 - 8.0 15.0 25.5 18.0 -
2.1 -
Cylinder
head bolt
and nut
Ml0 M8 Lfi
IWO
3.5 - 4.0 0.8

0.9
- 29.0
12
1:
1.2
1.:
6.0 - 8.5
6.5 8.0
Primary Clutch Rocker Chain Chain Cam Tappet Crankcase
drive sleeve
gear bolt hub nut
8050 -
110 70
8.0
11 .O 7.0 3.0 1.2 1.2 1.6 1.6 1.3
58.0 36.0 18.0
- 79.5 - 50.5 - 21.5
5.0 2.5 0.8 0.8 -
arm bolt guide bolt bolt bolt nut M6 M8
25 - 30 8814 13912 12 16 16 13
6.0 - 8.5 6.0 - 8.5 10.0 9.5 6.5 14.5 14.5 11.5 11.5
tensioner chain
sprocket lock
1.4 1.3 0.9 -
adjuster bolt
- 9.5 17.5 17.5 5.0
20 - 24 20 - 24
2.0 - 2.4 2.0 0.4 - 2.4 - 0.7 1.2 1.8
Secondary Oil gallery
gear case bolt plug M6 M8 Ml0 Ml4 L,P
4-7 812 12 18
3.0 -
0.8
6.0 - 8.5 8.5 14.5 .*r 13.0 18.0 .nrr
1.2 2.0
20 - 25
- 2.5
M8,
L150
37 - 45 70 - 88 70 88
3.7 - 4.5 7.0 - 8.8 7.0 - 8.8
50.5 50.5 50.5
63.5
MlO,L130 MlO,L170
- 63.5 63.5
9-30
ITEM Driveshaft bolt
N-m 60 - 70 80140 110 160
kg-m 6.0 - 7.0 8.0 14.0 11 .O 16.0
lb-ft 43.5 - 50.5 58.0 - 79.5 101.5 115.5
Secondary drive bevel gear shaft nut Magneto rotor bolt Frame mounting Engine mounting bolt bracket bolt + M8 M6 Con-rod nut
40 - 60 18-28 812
4.0 - 6.0 1.8 - 2.8 0.8 1.2
29.0 - 43.5 13.0 - 20.0 6.0 - 8.5 35.5 - 38.5
49 - 53
4.9 - 5.3
COOLING *
.--_ _ I I tM
Ml0
N.m 50 - 65 9-14
kg-m 5.0 - 6.5 0.9 15 1 .o 1.4 1.5
b-ii 36.0 - 47.0 6.5 7.010.0 11.0
Radiator mounting bolt Fan switch , Temperature gauge
lo-
SHAFT
DRIVE
I T E :v: 18-28 18-28 90 110 1 .8 - 2.8 1.8 - 2.8 9.0 11 .o 1 1 1 I 13.0 - 20.0 13.0 - 20.0 65.0 - 79.5 65.0--87;O 6.0 - 7.0 14.5 19.0 1 I I I
Secondary drive bevel gear housing bolt Secondary driven bevel gear housing bolt Final drive bevel gear shaft nut
Fina! drive beve! OIXI~ hearina stonner a--. ---. ---TV--. ..a
I 1 I I
I
I I
Cm-120 810
9.0-12,O 0.8 1.0
Final driven gear bearing retainer Final gear bearing case bolt
screw
20 - 26
2.0 - 2.6
CHASSIS
ITEM Steering stem head nut Front fork upper clamp bolt Front fork lower clamp bolt Front axle shaft Front axle pinch bolt Handlebar clamp bolt Handlebar holder mounting Front brake master cylinder Front brake caliper mountinq 1 Brake hose union bolt nut mounting bolt bolt -1 I N-m 50-80 18-28 1~6- 28 36 - 52
I
kg-m / 5.0 -8.0
I
lb-ft ~ ~ ) 36.0 - 58.0 13.0 - 20.0 ..~ 13.0 - 20.0 26.0 - 37.5
1.8-2.8 / __------_;~ ~~ 1.8 - 2.8 3.6 - 5.2
14.5 - 21.5
21.5 - 34.5
I
bolt
15-20
1.5 - 2.0
11.0 -
14.5
Front footrest bracket mounting
9-31 SERVICING INFORMATION
ITEM I Rear shock absorber mounting nut upper/lower
N-m I 22 - 35 18-28 boit bolt 20-3i 30 - 36 22 - 35 bolt 81c ,a-20
kg-m 2.2 - 3.5 1.8 - 2.8 2.0 - 3.1 3.0 - 3.6 2.2 - 3.5 0.8 1 c I .3 -
lb-ft 16.0 - 25.5 13.0 - 20.0 14.5 _ 22.5 21.5 - 26.0 16.0 - 25.5 6.0 - 8.5
IIan I I.U I14.3
Rear brake pedal boss bolt _ _.. ~~_ n__- I_-_,._ caliper mounting near uraw _-II Rear brake caliper Torque housing
link nut (Front
& Rear) mounting
Rear brake master cylinder

Rear YI I. I Sk,, hrakn rm-i I v.. lnrk I,. nuttI. I I
12
1.2
2.0
Rear axle nut Final bevel gear case joint nut
60 - 96 35 - 45
6.0 - 9.6 3.5 - 4.5
43.5 - 69.5 25.5 - 32.5
TIGHTENING
TORQUE
CHART
For other bolts and nuts not listed above, refer to this chart:
Bolt Diameter
Conventional or 4 marked bolt

N.m kg-m lb-ft
7 marked bolt
@ (mm) 4 5 6
8 10 12 14 16 18 1
N.m
1.5 - 3.0
kg-m 0.15 - 0.3 0.3 - 0.6

0.8 -
lb-ft 1.o - 2.0 2.0 - 4.5

6.0 - 8.5 13.0 - 20.0 29.0 - 43.5 50.5 - 72.5
1.o - 2.0 2.0 - 4.0 j

j 4.0-7.0 10.0 16.0
0.1 - 0.2 0.2 - 0.4 1 1

0.4 - 0.7 1 .O - 1.6 2.2 - 3.5 3.5 - 5.5
0.7 - 1.5 1.5 - 3.0 1

3.0 - 5.0 7.0 11.5
3.0 - 6.0 1
8.0 - 12.0 18.0 - 28.0 40.0 - 60.0 100.0 160.0 - 250.0 1
1.2
1.8 - 2.8 4.0 - 6.0 7.010.0
22.0 - 35.0 35.0 - 55.0
16.0 - 25.5 25.5 - 40.0
70.0 -
50.0 - 80.0 80.0 - 130.0
5.0 - 8.0 8.0 - 13.0
/ 36.0-
58.0
/ llO.O170.0
11.0 - 16.0 17.0 - 25.0
79.5 - 115.5
123.0 - 181 .O
LUL.3
58.0 - 94.0
I cl . IIonn . 4-nl-l - a
1x0-
,on IJ.
nAn , )-lc a9.v - 131.3
CInnn c)onn . LW. - LO
c)mn - L0.V LU.V *On
. I 144.3
mnnr
Conventional
bolt
4 marked
bolt
7 marked
bolt
9-32
SERVICE DATA
VALVE + GUIDE
ITEM Valve diam. IN. EX. Valve lift IN. EX. Valve clearance (when cold) Valve guide to valve clearance stem IN. & EX IN. EX. Valve Valve guide stem I.D. O.D. IN. & EX. IN. EX. Valve Valve Valve stem runout Ihl II\. & EX. STANDARD (1% (1% (cx3, KF;53, 0.08-0.13 (0.003-0.005) 0.020-0.047 (0.0008-0.0019) 0.035-0.062 IA T\Al I -b--A nn9ni n . L-t, ,. 5.500-5.512 (0.2165-0.2170) 5.465-5.480 (0.2152-0.2157) 5.450-5.465 (0.2146-0.2152) 0.05 (0.002) &?2, 4.0 (0.16)
0,s-?.I
Unit:
mm (in)
LIMIT
0.35 (0.014) 0.35

(0.014)
head thickness stem end length

\nrirlth YlLII
IN. & EX. IN. & EX. IN. & EX. IN. & EX. INNER OUTER
\/.z,l\,n aGal. cn~+ cJlcT Valve Valve
(0.035-0.043) 0.03 (0.001) 38.3 (1.51) 40.1 (1.58) 6.51-7.49 kg (14.3516.51 Ibs) at length 32.5 mm (1.28 12.09-13.91 kg (26.65-30.67 Ibs) at length 36.0 mm (1.42
head radial runout spring free length
Valve
spring tension INNER
in)
OUTER
in) Unit: mm (in)
CAMSHAFT
+ CYLINDER
ITEM
HEAD
I IN. EX. STANDARD 35.954-35.994 (1.4155-1.4171) 36.919-36.959 (1.4535-l .4551)
n n27_n V. ncx .L (0.0013-0.0026)
LIMIT 35.660
(1.4039)
36.620 (1.4417)
n itm V. Id
(0.0059)
ITEM
Camshaft journal holder I.D. No. 1 Left side No.2 Right side No.1 No.2 Camshaft journal O.D. Right side Left side
STANDARD
20.012-20.025 (0.7879-0.7884) 25.012-25.025 (0.9847-0.9852) 1 19.959-19,980 (0.7858-0.7866) 24.959-24.980 (0.9826-0.9835) I I
LIMIT
1No. 1 Left side No.2 Right side No.1 No.2 Right side Left side
Camshaft Cam ch2in Rocker Rocker Cylinder Cylinder
runout
3n .4+-h inmm+h L-plIta,I I Ic;Ily Ll I
0.10 (0.004) 128.9 (5.07) IN. & EX. O.D. IN. & EX. 12.00012.018 (0.4724-0.4731) 11.96611.984 (0.4711-0.4718) 0.05 (0.002) I 0.05 (0.002) Unit: mm (in)
arm I.D. arm shaft
head distortion head cover distortion
CYLINDER + PISTON + PISTON

ITEM
Compression pressure
RING
STANDARD
1 3001 600 kPa
LIMIT
1100 kPa
psi ( 13 - 16 kg/cm2 1 185-228 Compression difference Piston pressure
t11 kg/cm2 1 156 psi 200 kPa 2 kg/cm2 i 28 psi 1 0.120 (0.0047) 83.085 (3.2711) 82.880 (3.2630) 0.05 (0.002)
to cylinder
hnrn _I
clearance
0.045-0.055 (0.0018-0.0022)
013 n1c Q2 nnn vJ.vvv-03. Ia
fT\/lindor _, .I, l,..l
(3.2677-3.2683) Piston diam Measure Cylinder Piston distortion ring free end gap 82.950-82.965 (3.2657-3.2663) at 15 mm (0.6 in) from the skirt end.
1st 2nd
R R
Approx. Approx.
(A.:F3) (d, 4685)
(0%) (OGO, 0.70 (0.028) 0.70 (0.028) 0.180 (0.007) 0.150 (0.006)
Piston
ring end gap
1 st 2nd
0.20-0.35 (0.008-0.014) 0.20-0.35 (0.008-0.014)
Piston
ring
groove
clearance
1 st 2nd
9-34
ITEM Piston ring groove width 1 St 2nd Oil Piston ring thickness 1 st 2nd Piston Piston pin bore pin O.D. I
STANDARD 1 .Ol - 1.03 (0.0398-0.0406) 1.21-1.23 (0.0476-0.0484) 2.51 -2.53 (0.0988-0.0996) 0.970-0.990 (0.0382-0.0390) 1.1701.190 (0.0461-0.0469) 20.002 - 20.008 (0.7875-0.7877) 19.996-20.000 (0.7827-0.7874) 1
LIMIT
20.030 (0.7886) 19.980 (0.7866) Unit: mm (in)
1 I
CONROD
Corod Conrod Conrod
Crank _.U....
+ CRANKSHAFT
STANDARD
I
8
LIMIT 20.040 (0.7890) 0.30 (0.012)
small
end I.D.
20.01 O-20.01 (0.7878-0.7881) 0.10-0.20 (0.004-0.010) 21.95-22.00 (0.864-0.866)

22.?0-22.?5
big end side clearance big end width

nin y... wirith . .._...
(0.870-0.872) Conrod Crank big end oil clearance pin O.D. journal journai thrust thrust runout I oil clearance O.D. bearing clearance I Crankshaft 0.024-0.042 (0.0009-0.0017) 40.982-41 .OOO (1.6135-1.6142) 0.020-0.050 (0.0008-0.0020) --.47.YS5-4/.YwJ
~ 0.080 (0.0031)
Crankshaft Crankshaft Crankshaft thickness Crankshaft
--_
0.080 (0.003 1)
(1.8884-
1.8890)
1.925-2.175 (0.0758-0.0856) 0.05-0.10 (0.0020-0.0040) I I 0.05 (0.002)
3lL PUMP
ITEM Oil pump reduction ratio 40F) Above Below 1.859 350 650 Oil pressure I (at 60C,1 STANDARD (71/42 x 32/29) 50 psi) 92 psi) kPa (3.5 kg/cm*, kPa (6.5 kg/cmn, at 3 000 r/min.
LIMIT
CLUTCH
ITEM Clutch Clutch cable play I release screw
l/4 --l/2
Unit: STANDARD
mm (in) I
LIMIT
turn back 2.65-2.95 (0.104-0.116) 3.45-3.55 (0.136-o. 140) 2.35 (0.093) 3.15 (0.124)
Drive plate thickness
No. 1 No.2
Drive Driven Driven Clutch
plate claw
yyidth
15.816.0 (0.62-0~63) 1.60+0.05 (0.063 + 0.002)
15.0 (0.59) 0.10 (0.004)
plate thickness plate distortion spring free length
No. 1
24.6 (0.97) I Unit: STANDARD
I
TRANSMISSION
ITEM Primary reduction ratio ratio Secondary reduction
No.2
I
1.690 (71/42) (30/30 (30/31 (34/l (32/l (31/19) (27/22) (23/27) 0.10-0.30 (0.004-0.012) 0.10-0.30 (0.004-0.012) 5.50-5.60 (0.217-0.220) 4.50-4.60 (0.177-0.181) 5.30-5.40 (0.209-0.213) 4.30-4.40 (0.169-o. 173) 1) 4) x 17/l x 17/l 5) 5)
23.3 to.921 ratio
mm (in) Except LIMIT
U.S.A. model Other models
1.133 1.096 3.090
Finai reduction Gear ratios
ratio Low 2nd 3rd 4th Top
2.285 1.631 1.227 0.851 No. 1 No.2
1 .OOO (25/25) 0.50 (0.020) 0.50 (0.020)
Shift fork to groove
clearance
Shift
fork groove
width
No. 1 X0.2
Shift fork thickness
No. 1 No.2
9-36
SHAFT
DRIVE
ITEM STANDARD 0.05-0.32 (0.002-0.013) Drive side 0.03-0.064 (0.001-0.025) bevel gear backlash
Unit:
mm (in) I
LIMIT
Secondary
Final bevel gear backlash
CARBURETOR
ITEM Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. Idle r/min. Float height Main jet Main 1 Needle Throttle Pilot jet By-pass
, pi!nt nIltIN VI..V.
SPECIFICATION E-02,04,15,21,25,28,34 MIKUNI BS36SS 36 mm 11002 45coo 100 r/min. (No. 1) MIKUNI BDS36SS + t t 9.1 + 1 .O mm (0.36 + 0.04 in) #120 t
r-l_ e w4Y-3rd
type
(No.21
27.72 1 .O mm (1.09 * 0.04 in) (M.J.) (M.A.J.)

I I .I t IJ.N.1 I
# 132.5
s-r..,._ a 3F 1utr-3rd
air jet iet valve
1.8 mm P-4 #115 #47.5
1 Jet needie
(N.J.1 (Th.V.1 (P.J.) (B.P.)

IP ._.I I I. n
1 1 0.8 1 (PRE-SET) 1 No.1:(#70). I
+ + #40 0.8 mm x 3PCS

i .o mr?-!
mm x 2PCS
0.8 mr!?
1 Valve Starter
seat jet
(V.S.) (G.S.) (P.S.1 (P.A.J.)
1.5 mm #25 1% turns No.2:(2.0 mm in) mm in) back mm) (PRE-SET) 1 No.l:(#65). I I
t #22.5 1 l/s turns No.2:(1.2 t t back mm)
Pilot screw Pilot air iet
Throttle
cable play cable play I
0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04
1 Choke I
I 1 I
_I
I I
CARBURETOR
ITEM Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. Idle r/min. Float height Main jet Main Needle Throttle Pilot jet By-pass Pilot outlet air jet iet valve Jet needle I (M.J.) 1 I.. 1 (ivi.A.J. j j (J.N.) (N.J.1 (Th.V.1 (P.J.) (B.P.) (P.0.) 0.8 1 1200 27.7? (1.09?
i.8
SPECIFICATION E-03 MIKUNI BS36SS 36 mm 45ClO * 50 r/min. 1 .O mm 0.04 in) mm st (No. 1) MIKUNI BDS36SS t t + 9.1 2 1 .O mm (0.36 + 0.04 in) # k?t?.5 + 5D471 st (No.21
type
# i32.5 5E72-1
1
1
P-l
#125 #YS mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 0.8
P-2
#llO #YU mm x 3PCS 1 .O mm
ITEM
Valve Starter seat jet (V.S.) (G.S.) (P.S.) (P.A.J) No.l:(#65), I
SPECIFICATION E-03 1.5 mm

#25 (PRE-SET) No.2:(2.0 mm in) mm in) mm) No.l:(#65), 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04
+
#22.5 (PRE-SET) No.2:(1.2 + + mm)
Pilot screw Pilot air jet Throttle Choke cable play cable play
CARBURETOR
Carburetor Bore size ] . D . hln I . Idle r/min. Float height Main jet Main Needle Throttle Pilot jet By-pass Pilot outlet Valve Starter seat jet air jet jet valve Jet needle (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.) (N.J.) (Th.V.) (P.J.) (B-P.) (P.O.) (V.S.) (G.S.) (P.S.) (P.A.J.) No.l:(#65), 0.8 type MIKUNI BS36SS 36 mm 45cm 1200? 50 r/min. 27.72 1 .O mm (1.09+0.04 in) # 132.5 1.8 mm 5E72-1 P-7 #125 #YS mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 mm #25 (PRE-SET) No.2:(2.0 mm in) mm) No.l:(#65), 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.8 st (No. 1) MIKUNI BDS36SS t c t 9.1 ? 1 .O mm (0.36 + 0.04 in) #iZ!Z5 t 5D47P-Z #I10 #YU mm x 3PCS 1.0 mm + #22.5 (PRE-SET) No.2:(1.2 + + mm) 1 st (No.2)
mm
in)
CARBURETOR
ITEM Carburetor Bore size I.D. No.
Idle r/min. Float height Main jet Main air jet Jet needle (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.)
type
SPECIFICATION E-18 MIKUNI BS36SS (No. 1) MIKUNI 36 mm 45c30

1200 + \\O r/min.
BDS36SS + t
c
(No.21
27.7 + 1 .O mm (1.09kO.04 in) #135 1.8 mm 5F 107-3rd
9.1 + 1 .O mm (0.36 2 0.04 in) #125 t

5l348-3rfi
9-38
ITEM Needle Throttle Pilot jet By-pass Pilot Valve Starter Pilot Pilot outlet seat jet screw air jet cable cable play play jet valve (N.J.1 (Th.V.1 (P.J.) (B.P.) (P.0.) (V.S.1 (G.S.1 (P.S.1 (P.A.J.) (PRE-SET) \No.1:(#55), 0.8 P-4 #115 #45 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 mm #25 2 turns No.2:(1.85 mm in) mm in)
CDEPlClPATInhl VI L,, I_ I l,
E-l 8 P-2 + #40 0.8 mm x 3PCS 1 .O mm + # 22.5 back mm)] I (PRE-SET) No.l:(#65), 1 l/4 turns No.2:(1.2 t + back mm)
Throttle Choke
0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04
:ARBURETOR
ITEM Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. Idle r/min. Float
Main
SPECIFICATION E-01.16 MIKUNI BS36SS 36 mm 45c40 I I 1 lOO* 100 r/min. I I 27.72 1 .O mm (1.09&0.04 in)
ul )lz
type
(No.11
MIKUNI
BDS36SS e + e
(No.21
height
jet
9.12 1.0 mm (0.36 + 0.04 in)

iv=
AIc)c)
\IVI.J.j (M.A.J.) (J.N.1 (N.J.) (Th.V.1 (P.J.) (B.P.)

ID
4P.11
I\
TF
133
ILL.3
Main Needle
air jet iet valve
1.8 mm 5F 108-3rd 1 1 0.8

\
c 5D49-3rd t t #40 0.8 mm x 3PCS 1 . III,,, I A -+ # 22.5 back mm) (PRE-SET) 1 No.1 :(#65), 1 l/s turns No.2:(1.2 t t back mm)
Jet needle Throttle Pilot jet By-pass D:l,* UULICL ^. .&I^* rllui Valve Starter Pilot Pilot seat jet screw air jet cable cable play play
P-4 #115 #47.5 mm x 2PCS C.8 i-i-ii-i-i 1.5 mm #25 (PRE-SET) 1 l/2 turns No.2:(2.0 mm in) mm in)
ir.u.I
I j
(V.S.) (G.S.) (P.S.1 (P.A.J.)
] No.1 :(#70),
Throttle Choke
0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04
CARBURETOR
ITEM Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. Idle r/min. I 1100 type MIKUNI BS36SS 36 mm 45c50 * 100 r/min. I SPECIFICATION E-22,24,39 (No. 1) MIKUNI BDS36SS t + + I (No.21
ITEM Float
rln..:-
SPECIFICATION E-22,24,39 27.7 -+ 1 .O mm (1.09 2 0.04 in)

,h IlV1.J.) F ,, I-n IJL.3 r
height
JCL
:-*
9.1 & 1 .O mm (0.36 2 0.04 in)

I, # 4 er\ ILU
IVldlll
Main Needle
air jet iet valve
(M.A.J.) (J.N.) (N.J.) (Th.V.) (P.J.) (B.P.) (P.0.) W.S.) (G.S.) (P.S.) (P.A.J.) play play (PRE-SET) I 0.8
1.8 mm 5F 108-3rd P-4 #I15 #47.5 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 mm #25 1 l/a turns No.2:(2.0 back mm) No. 1 :( # 70), No. 1 :( #65), 0.8
+ 5D49-3rd + + #40 mm x 3PCS 1 .O mm + #22.5 (PRE-SET) 1 turn No.2:( + + back 1.2 mm)
Jet needle Throttle Pilot jet Bv-pass Pilot Valve Starter Pilot Pilot outlet seat jet screw air jet cable cable
Throttle Choke
0.51 .O mm (0.02-0.04 in) 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 mm in)
CARBURETOR
ITEM Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. Idle r/min. Float Main Main Needle Throttle Pilot Pilot Valve Starter Pilot Pilot iet outlet seat jet screw air jet cable cable play play
D., _c.__ uy-pJdaa
SPECIFICATION U-type of E-22 MIKUNI BDS36SS c + r/min. + 9.1 ? 1 .O mm ,r\cle,r\n1. L ~U.JO I u.u4 in) # 122.5 t 5D49-3rd P-6 t #40.A c-3 -u.0 ~IIITI . x CIiTPP 3rL3
type
MIKUNI
BS36SS 36 mm 45C60
(No. 1)
(No.2)
1 IOO?
100
height jet air jet jet valve (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.) (N.J.) (Th.V.) (P.J.)
(B.P.)
27.7+ 1 .O mm iY.O9*0.04 iTi) #I35 1.8 mm 5F 108-3rd P-4 #I15 #47.5
Jet needle
(P.O.) (V.S.) (G.S.) (P.S.) (P.A.J.) (PRE-SET) No. 1 :( # 70), 1.5 mm #25 1% turns No.2:(2.0 back mm) (PRE-SET) No.1 :(#65),
1 .O mm t #22.5 1
1116
turns
back
No.2:( t +
1.2 mm)
Throttle Choke
0.51 .O mm (0.02-0.04 in) 0.51 .O mm (0.02-0.04 in)
9-40
CARBURETOR
ITEM Carburetor Bore size I.D. Float Main Main Needle Throttle Pilot jet By-pass Pilot Valve Starter Pilot Pilot outlet seat jet screw air iet cable
rrahlo bIcI
SPECIFICATION E-l 7 MIKUNI BS36SS 36 mm 45c70 1100 +- 100 r/min. 9.12 (0.36? I 27.72 1 .O mm (1.09+0.04 in) (M.J.1 (M.A.J.1 (J.N.) (N.J.1 (Th.V.) (P.J.) (B.P.) (P.0.) (V.S.1 (G.S.1 (P.S.) (P.A.J.1 (PRE-SET) 0.8 1 j / 1 #135 1.8 mm 5F 108-3rd P-4 #115 #47.5 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm --$-__~_._~ back mm) 1 (PRE-SET) 1.5 mm #25 1 3/8 turns No. l:( # 701, No.2:(2.0 0.51 .O mm (0.02~0.04 in)
0.5-1.0 Km
tvoe
(No. 1)
MIKUNI
BDS36SS + + t
(No.21
No. height iet air iet iet valve
Idle rimin.
1.0 mm 0.04 in)
# 122.5 t 5D49-3rd
Jet needle
I 0.8
P-6 t #40 mm x 3PCS 1 .O mm t #22.5

11/4
turns
back
I No. I:( #65),
No.2:( t +
1.2 mm)
Throttle
f-hnLo UIII\cI
play
nl~,, pnuy
(0.02~0.04
in)
ELECTRICAL
ITEM Ignition timing SPECIFICATION T.D.C. Below 1 625 rimin. 30 B.T.D.C. Above 3 500 ~ and rimin. I 1
Unit:
mm (in)
NOTE E-l 8 model U.S.A. model Other models
5 B.T.D.C. Below 1 650 rimin. and 30 B.T.D.C. Above 3 500 rimin. 5O B.T.D.C. Below 1 625 rimin. and 32 B.T.D.C. Above 3 750 r!min.
Firing Spark
order plug
i ~~~~~ ~~~~+~~~~~ ~ ~ Type Gap
r ~
1.2 ~~~~~ N.D.: N.G.K.:
DPR8EA-9 X24EPRU9
--I ~~~ m-m_I U.S.A. Other model
0.8-0.9 (0.031 -0.035) bver 8 (0.3) at 1 atm. Approx. 1 17 12 (G -Bli 2 ~~6 12 19927 kl2
Spark Signal Ignition
performance coil coil resistance resistance
_~__~____
models ,m_ 1 + tap--_ tap
Generator no-load (When engine cold)
U.S.A. Other
model models
Regulated Starter
voltage brush length
13.5
~ 15.5 Limit:
V at 5 000 9 (0.35)
rimin. N.D.
motor
ITEM Commutator Starter Battery relay under-cut resistance
STANDARD Limit: 0.2 2-6 (0.008) fi I
NOTE
Fuse size
I Init.\h/
VIII.....
ITEM Headlight Tail/Brake

T,,rn I La,,, cinn~l a,y,,un
SPECIFICATION HI LO 60 55 5121
21
light
linht LJ lL
Speedometer Tachometer Water Turn High temp. signal beam
light liaht indicator indicator indicator liaht liaht / 4 (Execpt indicator light light light
3.4 1.7 x 2PCS 3 3.4 1.7 3.4 3.4 5 E-03,28,33 models) Unit: STANDARD height 35
II 4) 1.. .I
Neutral License Position
indicator light light
Oil oressure
BRAKE + WHEEL
ITEM Rear brake Brake disc pedal
mm
(in)
LIMIT
thickness
Front Rear
5.5kO.2 (0.197 + 0.008) 6.020.2 (0.236? 0.008)
&%, &?2, 0.30 (0.012)
Brake Master Master Brake
disc
runout bore piston cylinder diam. bore
Front Rear Front Rear Front Rear 12.70012.743 (0.5000-0.5017) 12.65712.684 (0.4983-0.4993) 33.960-34.036 (1.33701.3400) Front 27.000-27.076 (1.06301.0660) 42.850-42.926 (1.68701.6900)
cylinder cylinder caliper
Rear
9-42
ITEM Brake caliper piston diam. Front -
STANDARD 33.884-33.934 (1.33401.3360) 26.920-26.970 (1.05981.0618) 42.770-42.820 (1.68391.6858)
NOTE
Rear Wheel rim runout Axial Radial Wheel axle runout Front Rear Tire size depth Front Rear Tire tread Front Rear
K%3, $%3, 0.25 (0.010) 0.25 (0.010) 1 1 O/80-1 8 58H 150/70-B17 69H (01666,
SUSPENSION
Unit:
mm
(in)
I
Front Front fork fork stroke spring free length
STANDARD 150 (5.9)
LIMIT
NOTE
353 (13.9)
E-01,03,28,33 models
I
Front fork oil level 142 (5.59) 138 (5.43) Rear wheel travel 118 (4.64) 119 (4.68) Swingarm pivot shaft runout
348 (13.7)
Other models
E-01,03,28,33 models Other models E-01,03,28,33 models Other models 0.30 (0.012)
TIRE PRESSURE
NORMAL COLD INFLATION TIRE PRESSURE FRONT REAR - ,.-,
nra
RIDING DUAL
kPa
SOLO RIDING I,_ /--_2 ^^: I.rs,

KYILIII
RIDING
psi
I__ _-_2 KLJ/Llll
225 250
2.25 2.50
33 36
225 280
2.25 2.80
33 41
FUEL + OIL + COOLANT

ITEM Fuel type SPECIFICATION Use only unleaded gasoline of at least 87 pump octane (y) or 91 octane or higher rated by the research method. Gasoline containing MTBE (Methyl Tertiary Butyi Etherj, iess than iO% ethanoi, or less than 5% methanol with appropriate cosolvents and corrosion inhibitor is permissible. Use only unleaded pump octane ( 9 or hinhnr r~+nA h\, lllyl1b1 IcaLtY uy gasoline of at least 87 method) or 91 octane
+ha LIlc. Rncnc,veh I lc7Jczcllbll h/la+hnrl IYIGL,,.
Gasoline used should be graded 85-95 octane or higher. An unleaded gasoline is recommended. Fuel tank including reserve (4.8/4.0 (5.0/4.2 reserve (I. 110.9 Engine Engine oil type oil capacity SAE 18.0 L US/Imp 19.0 L US/Imp 4.0 L US/imp gal gal) gal)
I f
NOTE
U.S.A.model
Canada
model
Other
models
California model only Other models
1 OW/40.
API SE or SF
Overhaui Front fork oil type Front fork oil capacity (each leg)
(3.5/2.9
3 300 mi US/Imp
qtj E-01,03,28,33 models Other models
Fork oil # 10 388 ml (13.1113.7 US/Imp 02)
392 ml II q _,I r) n I ,.?,I___ __\ \ I 3.a I J.U ua/lrnp 0~1 Final bevel gear oil type with Final bevel gear oil capacity Brake fluid type Coolant capacity SAE 90 hypoid gear oil GL-5 under API classification ml US/Imp oz)
200-220 (6.8/7.0-7.4/7.7 DOT4
1 700 ml (1.8/1.5 US/Imp
qtj
THERMOSTAT
Thermostat temperature Thermostat Radiator pressure valve
+ RADIATOR
opening lift release ON OFF
+ FAN
STANDARD 75.02 Over 1.5OC (167+2.7OF) inj at 90C (194OFj LIMIT
ITEM
valve
6 mm (0.24
cap valve
1.1 + 0.15 kg/cm2 (15.6k2.1 psi, 1102 15 kPa) Approx. Approx. 105O C (22lOFj
Electric fan thermoswitch operating temperature
1 OOOC (212OFj
r~ ~
1 EMISSION
CONTENTS
~~~
~~~
~~
~~~
CONTROL CARBURETOR COMPONENTS
..-..---.lO-
EVAPORATIVE EMISSION
CONTROL SYSTEM . - - -- -a. -. . - -- -a- . lo- 2 ..........................................
i ~~ ~
CANISTER HOSE ROUTING
~~ ~ ~~~
10-l EMISSION
CONTROL INFORMATION
EMISSION
VX800
properly. There these These are several components three These carburetors
CONTROL CARBURETOR COMPONENTS

are equipped with precision, manufactured require special mixture control components carburetors for emission level control. adjustments to function and other precision
motorcycles
carburetor
mixture MAIN these
control
components tolerances
in each carburetor than standard
assembly.
Three
(3) of jets. -
are machined jets -
to much three
closer
machined
carburetor
(3) particular
JET, NEEDLE JET, PILOT JET (3) jets a different necessary, shown design below. jets becomes
must not be replaced of letter and number
by Stanare used.
dard jets. type
To aid in identifying
If replacement
of these close tolerance jets marked
be sure to replace them with the same
close tolerance
as in the examples manufacture. the jet needle recommends and durability.
The jet needle replacement replacement
is also of special becomes necessary Suzuki performance Used Jet
Only one clip position may only be replaced Suzuki that Genuine
is provided with
on the jet needle. performing possible whenever
If
an equivalent
component.
Parts be utilized
for the best possible Conventional on Standard Components Emission Used Type Figures
Tolerance
1234567890
Il?3Lt567HYl3
VX800 are as follows.
Figures Tolerance
On Close
jet Components
The carburetor
specification
for the emission-controlled
(California
model)
No.1:
P-7
No.
1:5E72=lst No.l:#45
! PRE-SET
The pilot screw screw with, improper
is pre-set
by the factory or resetting
utilizing
specialized
testing
and adjusting adjustment. components tamper
procedures. Adjusting,
The pilot interferring affect If perrepairs,
is not adustable performance dealer should
as the idle circuit and cause restore
is sealed
after factory
replacement,
of any of the carburetor to exceed servicing technical
may adversely level limits.
carburetor the Suzuki contact
the motorycle
the exhaust requirements condition information
emission
sons, who are unaware the distributors
of these special carburetor the carburetors representative for further
with the carburetors
to their original
or if unable to effect and assistance.
EMISSION CONTROL INFORMATION
10-2
EVAPORATIVE
(Only for California
EMISSION
model)
CONTROL
separator
SYSTEM
Fuel-vapor
drain
hose
Front
carburetor
Rear carburetor
Roll-over /
valve
Purge hose
+ + + ----
HC VAPOR FUEL FRESH VACUUM AIR
Canister/
10-3 EMISSION CONTROL INFORMATION
CANISTER
HOSE
ROUTING
(Only for California
model)
CONTENTS
SPECIFICATIONS SERVICE CABLE, DATA. HARNESS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17AND HOSE ROUTING. 7 3
. . . . . . . 11-15
II-IVXEOOM ('91-MODEL)
SPECIFICATIONS
Overall length .............................. 2280 mm (89.8 in). 2265 mm .............................. .. E15,16,17,22,25,39 El8 Others E03,28,33 Others E03,33 Others EOl, 03,28,33 Others Others OHC, TSCC, 45 V-twin in) 2355 mm (92.7 in) ... 2255 mm (88.8 in) ... Overall width 805 mm (31.7 in) 1115 mm (43.9 in) ... 1085 mm (42.7 in) ... Wheelbase ................................. Ground clearance Seat height ................................ Dry mass ................................. ........................... 1565 mm (61.6 in) ... 1555 mm (61.2 in) ... 145 mm ( 5.7 in) 800 mm (31.5 in) ... 795 mm (31.3 in) ... 214 kg 213 kg (4721bs). (470 Ibs) ... Overall height .............................. ........ ..E03,3 3
.. E33
ENGINE
Type ..................................... Valve clearance ............................. Number of cylinders Bore ..................................... Stroke Piston displacement Compression Carburetor, Air cleaner Lubrication ratio Front. ......................... Four-stroke, 2 83.0 mm (3.268 74.4 mm (2.929 805 cm3 (49.12 10.0 : 1 Ml KUNI Ml KUNI BDS36SS, BS36SS, single single in) in) cu. in) water-cooled, 0.08 - 0.13 mm (0.003 - 0.005
................................... ......................... .......................... .......................... ...........................
Rear ................................
Non woven fabric element Electric starter motor Wet sump
Starter system
.............................
system ..........................
TRANSMISSION
................................... .............................. Transmission Clutch Gearshift pattern Primary reduction Gear ratios, Low ........................... ratio ...................... ........................... Wet multi-plate type 5-speed constant mesh 1-down, ~-UP 1.690 (71/42) 2.285 (32/14) 1.631 (31/19) 1.227 (27/22) 1 .OOO (25/25) 0.851 (23/27) x 30/30) 30/31) 1) ... ... E03,33 Others 1.133 (17/15 1.096 (17/15x Final reduction ratio Drive system ............................... ........................ 3.090 (34/l Shaft drive
2nd ............................ 3rd ............................ 4th ............................ Top Secondary ........................... ratio .................... reduction
VXBOOM ( 91-MODEL) 11-2
CHASSIS
Front suspension ........................... ............................ Telescopic, Swingarm, rebound coil spring, oil damped coil spring, gas/oil damped, 5-way adjustable; force 4-way adjustable ... compression rebound stroke ...................... Rear wheel travel. ........................... Front suspension Caster .................................... Trail ..................................... damping damping EOl, 03, 28, 33; and Others ... force 4-way adjustable damping Rear suspension
spring preload
force 4-way adjustable EOl, 03, 28, 33 Others 28,
150 mm (5.9 in) 118 mm (4.6 in) ... 119 mm (4.7 in) ... 59 143 mm (5.63 in) ... EOl, E03,33 129 mm ... 142 mm (5.59 in) ... Others 35 (right Disc Disc 110/80-18 150/70-l 150/70B-17 58H, tubeless 7 69H, 69H, tubeless tubeless ... ... E03,28,33 Others & left)
angle .............................. radius. ............................. ...............................
3.2 m (10.5 ft)
brake.
Rear brake. ................................ Front tire size .............................. Rear tire size. ..............................
ELECTRICAL
Ignition Ignition type timing .............................. ............................. Fully transistorized below below above below 1650 r/min 1625 3500 r/min. r/min and ... ... and ... Others X24EPR-U9 E03, 33 and E-l 8 above 3500 r/min 5 B.T.D.C. 30 B.T.D.C. 5 B.T.D.C. 35 B.T.D.C. 5 B.T.D.C. 32 B.T.D.C. Sparkplug Battery Headlight Position Turn Tail/Brake ................................ ................................... ................................. light light .............................. ............................ ............................ .......................... ..................... ...................... light ................... light light check ................ light light ............ ........... ............... light light indicator light indicator light light
1625 r/min
above 3750 r/min or NIPPON
NGK DPR8EA-9 25/10/10/10A 12V 60/55W 12V 4W ... 12V 21W 12V 5/21W 12V 5W 12V 12V 12V 12V 12V 12V 12V 12V 3.4W 1.7W 3.4W 1.7W 3.4W 3.4W 3W 1.7W
DENS0
12V 57.6 kC (lGAh)/lOHR
Fuse .....................................
except
E03,28,33
signal light
License plate light Speedometer Tachometer Neutral High Turn Oil beam signal pressure indicator
indicator
Coolant
temperature
Speedometer Tachometer
...................... .......................
12V 3.4W (x2pcs.l
11-3 VXBOOM ( 91-MODEL)
SERVICE DATA
VALVE + GUIDE
Unit: mm (in)
Valve
spring tension
12.09-13.91
CAMSHAFT
Cam height
+ CYLINDER
ITEM
HEAD
STANDARD IN. EX. 35.954-35.994 (1.4155-1.4171) 36.919-36.959 (I .45351.4551) 0.032-0.066 (0.0013-0.0026)
Unit:
mm (in)
LIMIT 35.660 (I .4039) 36.620 (I .4417) 0.150 (0.0059)
Camshaft
journal
oil clearance
VXBOOM ( 9%MODEL) 11-4
ITEM Camshaft journal holder I.D. No.1 No.2 Left side Right side
STANDARD 20.012-20.025 (0.7879-0.7884) 25.012-25.025 (0.9847-0.9852) 19.95919.980 (0.7858-0.7866) 24.959-24.980 (0.9826-0.9835)
LIMIT
No. 1 Right side No.2 Left side Camshaft journal O.D. No. 1 Left side No.2 Right side No.1 No.2 Camshaft Cam chain Rocker Rocker Cylinder Cylinder runout 20-pitch length Right side Left side
0.10 (0.004) 128.9 (5.07) IN. & EX. O.D. IN. & EX. 12.00012.018 (0.4724-0.4731) 11.966-11.984 (0.4711-0.4718) 0.05 (0.002) 0.05 (0.002)
arm I.D. arm shaft
CYLINDER
Compression
+ PISTON + PISTON
ITEM pressure
RING
STANDARD 1 300-I 600 kPa
Unit:
mm (in)
LIMIT 1100 kPa
t 13-16 185-228 kg/cm2 j psi Compression difference Piston Cylinder Piston pressure
i 1 1 kg/cm* i 156 psi 200 kPa 2 kg/cm2 ! 28 psi 1
to cylinder bore diam.
clearance
0.045-0.055 (0.0018-0.0022) 83.000-83.015 (3.2677-3.2683) 82.950-82.965 (3.2657-3.2663) Measure at 15 mm (0.6 in) from the skirt end.
0.120 (0.0047) 83.085 (3.271 1) 82.880 (3.2630) 0.05 (0.002)
Cylinder Piston
distortion ring free end gap
1st 2nd
R R 1 st
Approx. Approx.
$.:153, &>i5r
CO%, co93for 0.70 (0.028) 0.70 (0.028) 0.180 (0.007) 0.150 (0.006)
Piston
ring end gap
0.20-0.35 (0.008-0.014) 0.20-0.35 (0.008-0.014)~
2nd Piston ring groove clearance
1 st 2nd
11-5 VX8OOM ( 91-MODEL)
ITEM Piston ring groove width 1 st 2nd Oil Piston ring thickness
STANDARD 1.01-1.03 (0.0398-0.0406) 1.21-1.23 (0.0476-0.0484) 2.51-2.53 (0.0988-0.0996) 0.970-0.990 (0.0382-0.0390) 1.1701.190 (0.0461-0.0469) 20.002-20.008 (0.7875-0.7877) 19.996-20.000 (0.7827-0.7874)
LIMIT
1 st 2nd
Piston Piston
pin bore pin O.D.
20.030 (0.7886) 19.980 (0.7866) Unit: mm (in)
CONROD + CRANKSHAFT
ITEM Corod Conrod Conrod Crank Conrod Crank small end I.D. big end side clearance big end width pin width big end oil clearance pin O.D. journal journal thrust thrust runout oil clearance O.D. bearing clearance STANDARD 20.010-20.018 (0.7878-0.7881) 0.10-0.20 (0.004-0.010) 21.95-22.00 (0.864-0.866) 22.10-22.15 (0.870-0.872) 0.024-0.042 (0.0009-0.0017) 40.982-41 .OOO (1.6135-1.6142) 0.020-0.050 (0.0008-0.0020) 47.965-47.980 (I .88841.8890) 1.925-2.175 (0.0758-0.0856) 0.05-0.10 (0.0020-0.0040)
LIMIT 20.040 (0.7890) 0.30 (0.012)
0.080 (0.003 I)
Crankshaft Crankshaft Crankshaft thickness Crankshaft Crankshaft
0.080 (0.0031)
0.05 (0.002)
OIL PUMP
ITEM Oil pump reduction ratio Above Below 1.859 350 650 Oil pressure (at 60C,1400F) STANDARD (71/42 x 32/29) 50 psi) 92 psi) kPa (3.5 kg/cm*, kPa (6.5 kg/cm*, at 3 000 r/min. LIMIT
VXBOOM 91-MODEL) (
1 l-9
CLUTCH
ITEM
Clutch Clutch Drive cable release plate play (042, screw l/4 No. 1 No.2 Drive Driven Driven Clutch plate plate plate spring claw width
--l/2
Unit:
mm
(in)
STANDARD
LIMIT
turn
back 2.35 (0.093) 140) 3.15 (0.124) 15.0 (0.59)
thickness
2.65-2.95 (0.104-0.116) 3.45-3.55 (0.136-o. 15.8-16.0 (0.62-0.63) 1.60 + 0.05 (0.063 + 0.002)
thickness distortion free length
0.10 (0.004) No. 1 No.2 24.6 (0.97) 23.3 (0.92) Unit: mm (in) Except ratio
TRANSMISSION
STANDARD
Secondary reduction ratio
LIMIT
No.2
4.30-4.40 (0.169-o.
173)
SHAFT
DRIVE
ITEM STANDARD gear backlash 0.05-0.32 (0.002-0.013) Drive side 0.03-0.064 (0.001-0.025) bevel
Unit:
mm (in)
LIMIT -
Secondary Final bevel
gear backlash
CARBURETOR
CARBURETOR
ITEM Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. Idle r/min. Float Main Main Needle Throttle Pilot Pilot iet outlet By-pass height jet air iet jet valve (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.1 (N.J.) (Th.V.1 (P.J.1 iB.P., 1 0.8 1 I tvpe .. MIKUNI BS36SS 36 mm 45ClO 1200 + 50 r/min. 27.72 1 .O mm (1.09 2 0.04 in) # 132.5 1 .B mm 5E72-1 P-7 #125 #YS mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 0.8 st I I SPECIFICATION E-03 (No. 1) 1 MIKUNI BDS36SS + + + 9.1 + 1 .O mm (0.36 + 0.04 in) # I&?. 5 + 5D47P-2 #llO #YU mm x 3PCS 1.0 mm 1 st I (No.21 I I
Jet needle
(P.0.)
VXEOOM ( 91-MODEL) 11-8
ITEM Valve Starter seat jet (V.S.) (G.S.) (P.S.) (P.A.J) No. I:( # 65), 1.5 mm #25 (PRE-SET) No.2:(2.0 mm in)
SPECIFICATION E-03 + #22.5 (PRE-SET) mm) No. I:( # 65), No.2:(1.2 t + I mm)
Pilot screw Pilot air jet Throttle cable play cable play
0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04
Choke
0.51 .O mm (0.02-0.04 in)
ZARBURETOR
ITEM Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. Idle r/min. Float height Main jet Main Needle Throttle Pilot jet By-pass Pilot outlet Valve Starter seat jet air jet jet valve Jet needle (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.) (N.J.) (Th.V.) (P.J.) (B.P.) (P.O.) (V.S.) (G.S.) (P.S.) (P.A.J.) No.l:(#65), 0.8 type MIKUNI BS36SS 36 mm 45C20 1200 + 50 r/min. 27.72 1 .O mm (I .09 2 0.04 in) # 13fY!?s 1.8 mm 5E72-1 P-7 #125 #Y5 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 mm #25 (PRE-SET) No.2:(2.0 mm in) I mm) No.l:(#65), 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 I 0.8 st 9.15 (0.36? SPECIFICATION E-33 (No. I) MIKUNI BDS36SS + t + 1.0 mm 0.04 in) (No.2)
#/ZZS + 5D47#I10 #YU mm x 3PCS 1.0 mm + #22.5 (PRE-SET) No.2:(1.2 c + mm) 1st
P-L?
0.51 .O mm (0.02-0.04 in)
CARBURETOR
ITEM Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. Idle r/min. Float height Main jet Main air iet Jet needle (M.J.) (M.A.J.) fJ.N.) 1 type MIKUNI BS36SS 36 mm 45c30 12002 ljoo r/min. 1 SPECIFICATION E-18 (No. I) MIKUNI BDS36SS + t + 9.1 * 1 .O mm (0.36 + 0.04 in) #125 + 5D48-3rd (No.2)
27.7+ 1 .O mm (I .09 + 0.04 in) #I35 1.8 mm 5F 107-3rd
11-9 VX8OOM( 91-MODEL)
ITEM Needle jet

Throttle Pilot jet By-pass Pilot outlet Valve Starter seat jet valve (N.J.) (Th.V.1 (P.J.) (8.P.) (P.0.) (V.S.) (G.S.) (P.S.) (P.A.J.) (PRE-SET) INo.l:(#55). 0.8 P-4 #I15 #45 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 mm #25 2 turns No.2:(1.85 mm in) mm in)
SPECIFICATION E-18
P-2 + #40 0.8 mm x 3PCS 1 .O mm + #22.5 back mm)1 (PRE-SET) No.l:(#65). 1 l/4 turns No.2:(1.2 + c back mm)
Pilot screw I Pilot air iet Throttle Choke cable play cable play
0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04
CARBURETOR
ITEM
I
SPECIFICATION
F-01 -_.
Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. Idle r/min. Float height Main jet Main Needle Throttle Pilot jet Bv-pass Pilot outlet Valve Starter seat jet air iet jet Jet needle
tvpe I
MIKUNI
BS36SS 36 mm
(No. 1)
1 I
MIKUNI
BDS36SS + + +
(No.2)
45c40 1 1002 100
r/min.
27.7? 1 .O mm (I -09 2 0.04 in) (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.1 (N.J.) (Th.V.1 (P.J.) (B.P.1 (P.0.) W.S.) (G.S.) (P.S.) (P.A.J.) (PRE-SET) 0.8 1 #I35 1.8 mm 5F 108-3rd P-4 #II5 #47.5 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 mm #25 I /2 turns mm in) I back mm)
9.1 2 1 .O mm (0.36 + 0.04 in) # 122.5 + 5D49-3rd + + #40 0.8 mm x 3PCS 1.0 mm + #22.5 (PRE-SET) No. I:( # 65), 1% turns No.2:(1.2 + + back mm)
valve
No. I:( # 701, No.2:(2.0 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 I
0.51 .O mm (0.02-0.04 in)
CARBURETOR
ITEM
Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. 1 lOO+ Idle r/min. type MIKUNI BS36SS 36 mm 45c50 100 r/min.
SPECIFICATION
E-l 5,22,24,39 (No. 1) MIKUNI BDS36SS + + + (No.21
VXIOOM ( 91-MODEL) 11-10
Throttle Pilot jet By-pass
valve
(Th.V.1 (P.J.) (B.P.) (P.O.) (V.S.) (G.S.) (P.S.) (P.A.J.) (PRE-SET) No.l:(#70), 0.8
#115 #47.5 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 mm #25 1% turns No.2:(2.0 mm in) mm in) I back mm) No.l:(#65), 0.8
+ #40 mm x 3PCS 1 .O mm c #22.5 (PRE-SET) 1 turn back No.2:(1.2 + + mm)
Pilot outlet Valve Starter seat jet
Pilot screw Pilot air jet Throttle cable play cable play
0.5-1.0 10.02-0.04
Choke
0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04
CARBURETOR
ITEM Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. Idle r/min. Float height Main jet Main Needle Throttle Pilot jet By-pass Pilot outlet Valve Starter seat jet air jet jet valve Jet needle (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.) (N.J.) (Th.V.1 (P.J.) (B.P.) (P.0.) (V.S.) (G.S.) (P.S.) (P.A.J.) (PRE-SET) No. I:( # 70). 0.8 1100 type MIKUNI BS36SS 36 mm 45C60 * 100 r/min. 27.72 1 .O mm (I .09 * 0.04 in) #I35 1.8 mm 5F 108-3rd P-4 #I15 #47.5 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 mm #25 1 l/s turns No.2:(2.0 back mm) (PRE-SET) No. I:( #65), 0.8 SPECIFICATION U-type (No. I) of E-22 MIKUNI BDS36SS + + t 9.1 2 1 .O mm (0.36 + 0.04 in) # 122.5 + 5D49-3rd P-6 + #40 mm x 3PCS 1.0 mm + #22.5 1
i/16
(No.21
Pilot screw Pilot air iet Throttle Choke cable play cable play
turns
back mm)
No.2:(1.2 c +
0.51 .O mm (0.02-0.04 in) 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 mm in)
CARBURETOR
ITEM Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. 1 lOO+ Idle r/min. Float height Main jet Main Needle Throttle Pilot jet By-pass Pilot outlet Valve Starter seat jet air jet jet valve Jet needle (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.) (N.J.) (Th.V.) (P.J.) (B.P.) (P.O.) (V.S.) (G.S.) (P.S.) (P.A.J.) (PRE-SET) NO. 1 :( # 70), 0.8 type MIKUNI BS36SS 36 mm 45c70 100 r/min. 27.7+ 1 .O mm (1.09 Ifr 0.04 in) #135 1.8 mm 5F 108-3rd P-4 #115 #47.5 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 mm #25 1% turns No.2:(2.0 mm in) back mm) (PRE-SET) No. 1 :( # 65), 0.8 SPECIFICATION E-l 7 (No. 1) MIKUNI BDS36SS + + t 9.1 * 1 .O mm (0.36 + 0.04 in) # 122.5 + 5D49-3rd P-6 + #40 mm x 3PCS 1.0 mm + #22.5 1% turns back No.2:( 1.2 mm) + + (No.2)
0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04
0.5-l .O mm (0.02-0.04 in)
ELECTRICAL
Unit:
mm (in)
More
than
75 V (AC)
at 5 000
r/min.
Other
models
VXIOOM ( 91-MODEL) 11-12
ITEM . _-._.
STANDARD
Limit: 0.2 2-6 Type designation Capacity Standard electrolyte S.G. (0.008) !J YBI 6B-A 12V57.6kC 1.28 (lGAh)/lOHR (68OF)
NOTE
Commutator Starter Battery
under-cut
relay resistance
at 20C 10 A 10 A 10 A 25 A
Fuse size
Headlight Ignition/Fan Signal Main
WATTAGE
ITEM Headlight
Tail/Brake light
Unit:W
HI
LO
SPECIFICATION 60
55 5121 21 3.4 1.7 x 2PCS
Turn signal light Speedometer light Tachometer Water temp. light indicator light light light light 4 (Execpt
3 3.4 1.7 3.4 3.4 5 E-03,28,33 models) Unit: mm (in)
Turn signal indicator High beam indicator Neutral License Position indicator light liaht light Oil pressure indicator
BRAKE + WHEEL
ITEM
Rear brake pedal height ( 13.54, Brake disc thickness Front Rear Brake disc runout Master Master cylinder cylinder bore piston diam. bore Front Front Rear Front Rear Front Rear Brake caliper cylinder 12.70012.743 (0.5000-0.5017) 12.65712.684 (0.4983-0.4993) 33.960-34.036 (I .33701.3400) 27.000-27.076 (I .06301.0660) 42.850-42.926 (1.68701.6900) 5.520.2 (0.197 * 0.008) 6.02 0.2 (0.236 + 0.008)
STANDARD
LIMIT
&52, 0.30 (0.012)
Rear
11-13 VXIOOM ( 91-MODEL)
ITEM
STANDARD
NOTE
Tire tread depth
SUSPENSION
ITEM Front fork stroke Front fork spring free length STANDARD 150 (5.9) 353 (13.9) 348 (13.7) Front fork oil level 142 (5.59) 138 (5.43) Rear wheel travel 118 (4.64) 119 (4.68) Swingarm pivot shaft runout 0.30 (0.012) LIMIT
Unit:
mm (in)
NOTE .-- _-
E-01,03,28,33 models Other models E-01,03,28,33 models Other models E-01,03,28,33 models Other models
TIRE PRESSURE
Ii
VXBOOM ( 91-MODEL) 11-14

ITEM Iuel type SPECIFICATION Use only unleaded gasoline of at least 87 or 91 octane or pump octane ( 9) higher rated by the research method. Gasoline containing MTBE (Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether), less than 10% ethanol, or less than 5% methanol with appropriate cosolvents and corrosion inhibitor is permissible. Use only unleaded gasoline of at least 87 method) or 91 octane pump octane ( 9 or higher rated by the Research Method. Gasoline used should be graded 85-95 ocAn unleaded gasoline is tane or higher. recommended. Fuel tank including reserve (4.8/4.0 (5.0/4.2 reserve (1.1/0.9 Engine oil type Engine oil capacity SAE Change Filter change Overhaul Front fork oil type Front fork oil capacity (each leg) 18.0 L US/Imp 19.0 L US/Imp 4.0 L US/Imp gal gal) gal) NOTE
U.S.A.model
Canada
model
Other
models
lOW/40,
API SE or SF 2 400 ml (2.5/2.1 US/Imp 2 800 ml (3.0/2.5 US/Imp 3 300 ml (3.5/2.9 US/Imp qt) qt) qt) E-01,03,28,33 models Other models
Fork oil # 10 388 ml (13.1 /I3.7 US/Imp (13.2/l 392 ml 3.8 US/Imp 02) oz)
Final bevel gear oil type with Final bevel gear oil capacity Brake fluid type Coolant capacity
SAE 90 hypoid gear oil GL-5 under API classification ml US/Imp oz)
200-220 (6.8/7.0-7.4/7.7 DOT4
1 700 ml (I .8/l .5 US/Imp
qt)
THERMOSTAT
Thermostat temperature Thermostat Radiator pressure
+ RADIATOR
+ FAN
STANDARD 75.0+ Over 1.5OC (167+2.7OF) in) at 90C (194OF) kPa) LIMIT
ITEM valve valve
6 mm (0.24
cap valve
1.1 + 0.15 kg/cm2 (15.622.1 psi, 110?15 Approx. Approx. 1O56 100C C (22lOF) (212OF)
Only for E-18 model Throttle Carburetor Clamp \ / I/ \ cable (front carb.) Mark (white paint) Air vent hose (front carb.) Air cleaner hose Breather hose / barancer hose Air vent \ hose
(rear carb.)
Fuel inlet hose
Fuel pump
vacuum
hose
81 carburetor
hose
Carburetor
clanc\z
..
Air cleaner
p,
Carburetor
clamp
Air cleaner
hose clamp
clamp .I,,. -;pe
Clamp the drain tube under the water drain plug.
OUTLET
Air cleaner
drain hose (rear)
L
Pass the fuel hose inside lead wires.
Radiator
overflow
hose
)JH-
ararrer
motor,
maynero ana neurrar and oil switch lead wires
CONTENTS
SPECIFICA SERVICE CABLE, WIRING AIR TIONS DATA.. HARNESS DIAGRAM.. SYSTEM.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72AND HOSE ROUTING.. 7 4
. . . . . . 12-16
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72-17 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12-18
SUPPLY
12-1VX8OON ('92-MODEL)
SPECIFICATIONS
Overall length . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2280 mm (89.8 in) . . . E15, 16, 17, 22, 25, 39 2355 mm (92.7 in) . . . El8 2265 mm . . . , . . . . . . E03,33 2255 mm (88.8 in) . . . Others Overall width Overall height ............................. ............................. 805 mm (31.7 in) 1115 mm (43.9 in) . . . E03, 28, 33 1085 mm (42.7 in) . . . Others Wheelbase................................. Ground clearance ........................... 1565 mm (61.6 in) . . . E03, 33 1555 mm (61.2 in) . . . Others 145 mm ( 5.7 in) 800 mm (31.5 in) . . . EOl, 03, 28,33 795 mm (31.3 in) . . . Others Dry mass ................................. 214 kg 213 kg (472 Ibs). . . E33 (470 Ibs) . . . Others water-cooled, OHC, TSCC, 45 V-twin - 0.005 in) Seat height ................................
ENGINE
Type ..................................... ............................ of cylinders. ........................ Four-stroke, 2 83.0 mm (3.268 74.4 mm (2.929 805 cm3 10.0 : 1 Ml KUNI BDS36SS, fabric single single element Ml KUN I BS36SS, Non woven Electric Wet sump starter motor in) in) Valve clearance Number Bore Stroke 0.08 - 0.13 mm (0.003
..................................... ................................... ......................... .......................... ........................... ........................... ratio Front Rear
Piston displacement Compression Carburetor, Air cleaner Starter Lubrication
(49.12 cu. in)
................................ ............................. system ..........................
system
TRANSMISSION
Clutch Gearshift Primary ................................... .............................. pattern ........................... ratio ...................... Low 3rd 4th Top Secondary reduction ratio ........................... ............................ ............................ ........................... ratio .................... Wet multi-plate 5-speed constant 1 -down, 2.285 4-up 1.690 (71/42) (32/14) 1.631 (31/19) 1.227 (27/22) 1 .OOO (25/25) 0.851 (23/27) x 30/30) 30/31) 1) . . . E03,33 . . . Others 1.133 (17/15 1.096 (17/15x Final reduction Drive system.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.090 (34/l . . . . . Shaft drive type mesh Transmission
reduction
Gear ratios,
2nd ............................
VXBOON
( 92-MODEL)
12-2
CHASSIS
Front suspension ........................... ............................ Telescopic, Swingarm, rebound coil spring, coil spring, damping oil damped gas/oil damped, Rear suspension
spring preload
5-way adjustable; force 4-way adjustable ... E01,03,28,33 force 4-way adjustable EOl, 03, 28, 33 force 4-way adjustable ... and Others
compression rebound Front stroke ...................... Rear wheel travel. ........................... suspension
damping
damping
150 mm (5.9 in) 118 mm (4.6 in) ... 59 143 mm (5.63 in) ... EOl, E03,33 129 mm ... 142 mm (5.59 in) ... Others 35 (right Disc Disc 110/80-18 150/70-l 150/70 58H, tubeless 7 69H, B17 69H, tubeless tubeless ... ... E03,28,33 Others & left) 28, 119 mm (4.7 in) . . , Others
Caster.. .................................. Trail .....................................
angle .............................. radius. ............................. ...............................
3.2 m (10.5 ft)
brake.
Rear brake. ................................ Front tire size .............................. Rear tire size. ..............................
ELECTRICAL
Ignition Ignition type timing .............................. ............................. Fully transistorized below below above below 1650 r/min 1625 3500 r/min. r/min and ... E03, 33 and ... E-l 8 and ... Others X24EPR-U9 above 3500 r/min 5 B.T.D.C. 30 B.T.D.C. 5 B.T.D.C. 35 B.T.D.C. 5 B.T.D.C. 32 B.T.D.C. Spark plug Battery ................................... ................................. NGK
1625 r/min
above 3750 r/min or NIPPON
DPR8EA-9
DENS0
12V 57.6 kC (lGAh)/lOHR 25/1O/lO/lOA 12V 60/55W 12V 4W ... except 12V 21W 12V 5/21W 12V 5W 12V 12V 12V 12V 12V 12V 12V 12V 3.4W 1.7W 3.4W 1.7W 3.4W 3.4W 3W 1.7W (x2pcs.) E03,28,33
Fuse ..................................... ................................. Headlight Position Turn Tail/Brake light light .............................. ............................ ............................ .......................... ..................... ...................... light ................... light ................ light ............ light ............... check light ........... light light indicator light indicator light light signal light
License plate light Speedometer Tachometer Neutral High Turn Oil beam signal pressure indicator
indicator
Coolant
temperature
Speedometer Tachometer
...................... .......................
12V 3.4W
12-3 VXBOON ( 92-MODEL)
CAPACITIES
Fuel tank, including reserve. . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18.0 L (4.8/4.0 19.0 L (5.0/4.2 4.0 L (1.1/0.9 2400 ml (2.5/2.1 2800 ml (3.0/2.5 3300 ml (3.5/2.9 US/Imp. US/Imp. US/Imp. US/Imp. US/Imp. US/Imp. gal) . . gal) gal) qt) qt) qt) US/Imp. oz) _ qt) oz) . . oz) . . E01,03,28,33 Others notice. _ E33 . Others
Reserve ..........
Engine oil, oil change with Final gear oil Coolant Front filter .............. reserve) .... overhaul (including ........ change .........
.. . . . . . . . . . .
200 - 220 ml (6.8/7.0 388 ml (13.1/13.7 392 ml (13.2/13.8
- 7.4/7.7
1700 ml (1.8/l.5 US/Imp. US/Imp. US/Imp.
fork oil (each leg) ......
These specifications
are subject
to change without
VXIOON ( 92-MODEL) 12-4
SERVICE DATA
VALVE + GUIDE
ITEM
Valve diam. IN. EX. Valve lift IN. EX. Valve clearance (when cold) Valve guide clearance to valve stem IN. & EX IN. EX. Valve Valve guide stem I.D. O.D. IN. & EX. IN. EX. Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve stem runout IN. & EX. IN. & EX. IN. & EX. IN. & EX. runout IN. & EX. INNER OUTER Valve spring tension INNER 6.51-7.49 kg (14.35-16.51 Ibs) at length 32.5 mm (1.28 12.09-13.91 (26.65-30.67 at lenath 36.0 mm kg Ibs) (I .42 0.9-1.1 (0.035-0.043) 0.03 (0.001) 38.3 (I.511 40.1 (I .58) Unit: mm (in)
STANDARD
LIMIT
Kz3,
0.08-0.13
(0.003-0.005) 0.020-0.047 (0.0008-0.0019) 0.035-0.062 (0.0014-0.0024) 5.500-5.512 (0.2165-0.2170) 5.465-5.480 (0.2152-0.2157) 5.4505.465 (0.2146-0.2152) 0.05 (0.002) KFb52, 4.0 (0.16) 0.35 (0.014) 0.35 (0.014)
head thickness stem end length
seat width head spring radial
free length
in)
OUTER
in) Unit: mm (in)
CAMSHAFT
Cam height
+ CYLINDER
ITEM
HEAD
STANDARD 35.954-35.994 (1.4155-1.4171)
36.919-36.959 (1.4535-1.4551) 0.032-0.066 (0.0013-0.0026)
IN.
EX.
LIMIT 35.660
(I .4039) 36.620 (I .4417) 0.150 (0.0059)
Camshaft
journal
oil clearance
12-5 VXIOON ( 92-MODEL)
ITEM Camshaft journal holder I.D. No. 1 Left side No.2 Right side No.1 No.2 Camshaft journal O.D. Right side Left side
STANDARD 20.01220.025 (0.7879-0.7884) 25.012-25.025 (0.9847-0.9852) 19.95919.980 (0.7858-0.7866) 24.959-24.980 (0.9826-0.9835)
LIMIT
No. 1 Left side No.2 Right side No.1 No.2 Right side Left side
Camshaft Cam chain Rocker Rocker Cylinder Cylinder
runout 20-pitch length 12.00012.018 (0.4724-0.4731) 11.96611.984 (0.471 l-0.471 8)
0.10 (0.004) 128.9 (5.07) IN. & EX. O.D. IN. & EX.
arm I.D. arm shaft
0.05 (0.002) 0.05 (0.002)

ITEM Compression pressure I
RING
STANDARD 1 300-l 600 kPa I
Unit:
mm (in)
LIMIT 1100 kPa
psi i 13-16 185-228 kg/cm* i Compression difference Piston Cylinder Piston pressure
i 11 kg/cm* 1 156 psi 200 kPa 2 kg/cm2 ! 28 psi 1 0.120 (0.0047) 83.085 (3.2711) 82.880 (3.2630) 0.05 (0.002)
to cylinder bore diam.
clearance
0.045-0.055 (0.0018-0.0022) 83.000-83.015 (3.2677-3.2683) 82.950-82.965 (3.2657-3.2663) Measure at 15 mm (0.6 in) from the skirt end.
Cylinder Piston
distortion ring free end gap
1st 2nd
R R
Approx. Approx.
(do4153, (d.ki5,
CO%) (O?ZO, 0.70 (0.0281 0.70 (0.028) 0.180 (0.007) 0.150 (0.006)
Piston
ring end gap
1 st 2nd
0.20-0.35 (0.008-0.014) 0.20-0.35 (0.008-0.014)
Piston
ring groove
clearance
1 st 2nd
VX8OON
( 82-MODEL) 12-8
Piston
ITEM ring groove
STANDARD width 1 St 2nd Oil 1.01-1.03 (0.0398-0.0406) 1.21-1.23 (0.0476-0.0484) 2.51 -2.53 (0.0988-0.0996) 0.970-0.990 (0.0382-0.0390) 1.170-1.190 (0.0461-0.0469) 20.002 - 20.008 (0.7875-0.7877) 19.996-20.000 (0.7827-0.7874)
LIMIT
Piston
ring thickness
1 st 2nd
Piston Piston
pin bore pin O.D.
20.030 (0.7886) 19.980 (0.7866) Unit: mm (in)
CONROD + CRANKSHAFT
ITEM . -... Corod Conrod Conrod Crank Conrod Crank small end I.D. STANDARD 20.010-20.018 (0.7878-0.7881) 0.10-0.20 (0.004-0.010) 21.95-22.00 (0.864-0.866) 22.1 O-22.15 (0.870-0.872) 0.024-0.042 (0.0009-0.0017) 40.982-41 .OOO (1.6135-1.6142) oil clearance O.D. bearing clearance 0.020-0.050 (0.0008-0.0020) 47.965-47.980 (1.88841.8890) 1.925-2.175 (0.0758-0.0856) 0.05-0.10 (0.0020-0.0040)
LIMIT -_._.. . 20.040 (0.7890) 0.30 (0.012)
big end side clearance big end width pin width big end oil clearance pin O.D. journal journal thrust thrust runout
0.080 (0.0031)
0.080 (0.0031)
0.05 (0.002)
OIL PUMP
ITEM Oil pump reduction ratio 14OOF) Above Below 1.859 350 650 Oil pressure (at 60C, STANDARD (71/42 x 32/29) 50 psi) 92 psi) kPa (3.5 kg/cm*, kPa (6.5 kg/cm*, at 3 000 r/min. LIMIT
CLUTCH
ITEM Clutch Clutch Drive cable release plate play (042, screw
1/4-- /z
Unit: STANDARD
mm
(in) -
LIMIT
turn
back 2.35 (0.093) 3.15 (0.124) 15.0 (0.59)
thickness
No. 1 No.2
2.65-2.95 (0.104-0.1 3.45-3.55 (0.136-0.140) 15.8-16.0 (0.62-0.63) 1.60 + 0.05 (0.063 + 0.002)
16)
Drive Driven Driven Clutch
plate plate plate
claw
width
thickness distortion free length
0.10 (0.004) No. 1 No.2 24.6 (0.97) 23.3 (0.92) Unit: STANDARD mm (in) Except LIMIT ratio
spring
TRANSMISSION
ITEM
VXEOON ( 92-MODEL) 12-E
SHAFT
DRIVE
ITEM STANDARD gear backlash 0.05-0.32 (0.002-0.013) Drive side 0.03-0.064 (0.001-0.025) bevel
Unit:
mm (in)
LIMIT
gear backlash
CARBURETOR
ITEM Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. Idle r/min. Float Main Main Needle Throttle Pilot jet By-pass Pilot Valve Starter Pilot Pilot outlet seat jet screw air iet cable cable play I Choke play I heiaht jet air iet jet valve (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.) (N.J.) (Th.V.) (P.J.) (B.P.) (P.0.) (V.S.1 (G.S.1 (P.S.) (P.A.J.) (PRE-SET) No.l:(#70), 0.8 1 1 lOOf. tvpe MIKUNI SPECIFICATION E-02,04,16,21,25,28,34 BS36SS 36 mm 45coo 100 r/min. 27.7* 1 .O mm (1.09 + 0.04 in) # 132.5 1.8 mm 5F 108-3rd P-4 #115 #47.5 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 mm #25 1% turns No.2:(2.0 mm in) mm in) back mm) I + I (PRE-SET) No.l:(#65), 0.8 I (No. 1) / MIKUNI BDS36SS + t + 9.1 + 1 .O mm (0.36?0.04 in) #120 t 5D49-3rd + e #40 mm x 3PCS 1.0 mm + # 22.5 1% turns No.2:(1.2 + back mm) (No.21
Jet needle
Throttle
0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04
CARBURETOR
12-9 VXBOON ( 92-MOOEL)
ITEM Valve Starter Pilot Pilot seat jet screw air jet cable cable play play (V.S.) (G.S.) (P.S.) (P.A.J) No. 1 :( #65), 1.5 mm #25 (PRE-SET) No.2:(2.0 mm in) mm in)
SPECIFICATION E-03 + #22.5 (PRE-SET) mm) No. 1 :( # 651, No.2:(1.2 + e mm)
Throttle Choke
0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04
CARBURETOR
ITEM Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. idle rlmin. Float Main Main Needle Throttle Pilot jet Bv-Da% Pilot Valve Starter Pilot Pilot outlet seat jet screw air iet cable cable play play height jet air jet jet valve (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.) (N.J.) (Th.V.1 (P.J.) (B.P.) (P.0.) (V.S.) (G.S.) (P.S.) (P.A.J.) 1 No.l:(#65). I 0.8 1200 type MIKUNI BS36SS 36 mm 45C20 + 50 r/min. 27.7+ 1 .O mm (1.09+0.04 in) # 132.5 1.8 mm 5E72-1 P-7 #125 # YS mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm I 1.5 mm #25 (PRE-SET) No.2:(2.0 mm in) mm in) mm) 1 No.l:(#65). 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.8 st SPECIFICATION E-33 (No. 1) 1 MIKUNI BDS36SS + t c 9.1 t 1 .O mm (0.36 + 0.04 in) # 1r?!z.s t 5D47P-l? #llO #YU mm x 3PCS 1 .O mm e #22.5 (PRE-SET) No.2:(1.2 + c mm) 1 st (No.21
Jet needle
Throttle Choke
CARBURETOR
ITEM Carburetor Bore size t I.D. No. Idle r/min. Float Main Main height jet air jet (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.) type MIKUNI BS36SS 36 mm 45c30 1200 + go r/min. 1 SPECIFICATION E-18 (No. 1) MIKUNI BDS36SS + + + 9.lkl.O mm (0.36 * 0.04 in) #125 c 5D48-3rd (No.21
27.72 1 .O mm (1.09 2 0.04 in) #135 1.8 mm 5F 107-3rd
Jet needle
VXBOON ( 92.MODEL) 12-10
ITEM Needle Throttle Pilot jet By-pass Pilot Valve Starter Pilot outlet seat jet valve (N.J.) (Th.V.) (P.J.) (B.P.) (P.0.) (V.S.) (G.S.1 (P.S.) (P.A.J.) play play [ (PRE-SET) No.l:(#55), 1 j 0.8 P-4 #115 #45 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 mm #25 2 turns No.2:(1.85 mm in) mm in)
SPECIFICATION E-18 P-2 + #40 0.8 mm x 3PCS 1 .O mm t #22.5 back mm) [ (PRE-SET) No.l:(#65),
111'4turns
,iet Pilot screw air jet cable cable
back mm)
No.2:(1.2 t t
Throttle Choke
0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04
CARBURETOR
ITEM Carburetor Bore size 1 I.D. Float Main 1 Main Needle 1 Throttle 1 Pilot jet By-pass Pilot Valve I Starter Pilot Pilot outlet seat iet screw air jet cable cable play
I
SPECIFICATION E-O 1 MIKUNI I llOO+ BS36SS 36 mm 45c40 100 rimin. 27.7+ 1 .O mm (1.09 + 0.04 in) (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.) (N.J.) (Th.V.1 (P.J.) (B.P.) (P.0.) (V.S.1 (G.S.1 (P.S.) (P.A.J.) 1 1 (PRE-SET) / 1 0.8 1 #135 1.8 mm 5F 108-3rd P-4 #115 #47.5 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm I back mm) 1 (PRE-SET) No. 1:(#65), 1.5 mm #25 1% turns mm in) mm in) No. l:( # 701, No.2:(2.0 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.8 I (No. 1) MIKUNI BDS36SS + e + 9.1& 1.0 mm (0.36+0.04 in) # 122.5 + 5D49-3rd + t #40 mm x 3PCS 1 .O mm e #22.5 1% turns No.2:(1.2 + + back mm) (No.21
type
No. height iet air jet iet valve
Idle rlmin.
Jet needle
Throttle Choke
play
CARBURETOR
ITEM Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. Idle r/min. 1 lOO+ type MIKUNI BS36SS 36 mm 45c50 100 r/min. SPECIFICATION E-l 5,22,24,39 (No. 1) MIKUNI BDS36SS + t + (No.21
12-11 VXBOON ( 92-MODEL)
ITEM Float Main Main Needle Throttle Pilot Pilot Valve Starter Pilot Pilot iet outlet seat jet screw air jet cable cable play play By-pass height jet air jet jet valve (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.) (N.J.) (Th.V.1 (P.J.) (B.P.) (P.0.) (V.S.) (G.S.) (P.S.) (P.A.J.) (PRE-SET) No.1:(#70), 0.8 27.7? 1 .O mm (1.09 + 0.04 in) # 132.5 1.8 mm 5F 108-3rd P-4 #115 #47.5 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 mm #25 1 r/8 turns No.2:(2.0 mm in) mm in)
SPECIFICATION E-l 5,22,24,39 9.1 t 1 .O mm (0.36 2 0.04 in) #120 e 5D49-3rd + + #40 0.8 mm x 3PCS 1 .O mm + #22.5 back mm) (PRE-SET) No.l:(#65), 1 turn No.2:(1.2 + + back mm)
Jet needle
Throttle Choke
0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04
CARBURETOR
ITEM
SPECIFICATION
VXBOON ( 92-MODEL) 12-12
CARBURETOR
ELECTRICAL
ITEM Ignition timing SPECIFICATION 5O B.T.D.C. Below 1 650 r/min. and 30 B.T.D.C. Above 3 500 r/min. 5O B.T.D.C. Below 1 625 r/min. and 32O B.T.D.C. Above 3 750 r/min. Firing Spark order plug Type 1.2 N.G.K.: DPR8EA-9 ND: X24EPR-U9
Unit:
mm
(in)
NOTE U.S.A. model Other models
I
Spark Signal Ignition performance coil coil resistance resistance
Gap
I
I
0.8-0.9 (0.031-0.035) 8 (0.3) 230 at 1 atm. 1 17 fl (G-BI) s2 (G -BI) 2-6 19-27 Q kfJ r/min. r/min.
I U.S.A. Other @ tap-@ Plu cap+ a taD . U.S.A. Other model models model models tap
Over
Approx. Approx. Primary Secondary

I
Generator no-load voltage (When engine cold)
More
than than
65V
(AC)
at 5 000 at 5 000
I
Regulated Starter voltage brush lenath 1 motor
More
75 V (AC)
13.5-15.5 Limit:
V at 5 000 9 (0.35)
r/min. I N.D
12-13 VXBOON ( 92-MOOEL)
ITEM Commutator Starter Battery relay under-cut resistance Type designation Capacity Standard electrolvte S.G. Headliaht Ignition/Fan Signal Main
STANDARD Limit: 0.2 2-6 (0.008) f-I YB16B-A 12V57.6kC 1.28

I
NOTE -
(lGAh)/lOHR (68OF)
I
at 20C 10 A 10 A 10 A 25 A
Fuse size
WATTAGE
Unit:W
BRAKE + WHEEL
ITEM Rear brake pedal height (13.54, Brake disc thickness Front Rear Brake Master Master Brake disc runout bore piston cylinder diam. bore Front Front Rear cylinder cylinder caliper Front Rear Front Rear 12.70012.743 (0.5000-0.5017) 12.65712.684 (0.4983-0.4993) 33.960-34.036 (1.33701.3400) 27.000-27.076 I1.06301.0660) 42.850-42.926 (1.68701.6900) 5.520.2 (0.197 + 0.008) 6.0+ 0.2 (0.236 + 0.008) STANDARD
Unit:
mm (in)
LIMIT
K?;oo, (CZ2, 0.30 (0.012)
Rear
VXBOON ( 92~AflOOEL)12-14
ITFM
STANDARD
LIMIT
(1.6839-
1.6858)
Tire
size
SUSPENSION
ITEM Front Front fork fork stroke spring free length STANDARD 150 (5.9) 353 (13.9) 348 (13.7) Front fork oil level 142 (5.59) 138 (5.43) Rear wheel travel 118 (4.64) 119 (4.68) Swingarm pivot shaft runout 0.30 (0.012) LIMIT
Unit:
mm (in)
NOTE
TIRE PRESSURE
NORMAL COLD INFLATION TIRE PRESSURE FRONT REAR SOLO kPa 225 250 RIDING psi 33 36 kg/cm2 2.25 2.50 RIDING DUAL kPa 225 280 RIDING psi 33 41 2.25 2.80 kg/cm2
12-15 VXIOON ( 92.MODEL)

ITEM Fuel type SPECIFICATION Use only unleaded gasoline of at least 87 pump octane (v-1 or 91 octane or higher rated by the research method. Gasoline containing MTBE (Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether), less than 10% ethanol, or less than 5% methanol with appropriate cosolvents and corrosion inhibitor is permissible. Use only unleaded gasoline of at least 87 method) or 91 octane pump octane ( y or hiaher rated bv the Research Method. Gasoline used should tane or higher. An recommended. Fuel tank including reserve (4.8/4.0 (5.014.2 reserve (1.110.9 Engine Engine oil type oil capacity SAE Change Filter change be graded 85-95 ocunleaded gasoline is NOTE
U.S.A.model
Canada
model
Other
models
18.0 L US/Imp 19.0 L US/Imp 4.0 L US/Imp
gal gal) gall
lOWi40,
API SE or SF 2 400 ml (2.5/2.1 US/Imp 2 800 ml (3.0/2.5 US/Imp 3 300 ml (3.5/2.9 US/Imp qt) qt) qt) !-01,03,28,33, models Other models
Overhaul Front fork oil type
Fork oil 388 (13.1/13.7 (I 3.2/I
# IO ml US/Imp 02) oz)
Front fork oil capacity (each leg)
392 ml 3.8 US/Imp
Final Final Brake
bevel bevel fluid
gear oil type with gear oil capacity type
200-220 (6.8/7.0-7.4/7.7 DOT4
Coolant
capacity
I 700 ml (1.811.5 US/Imp
qt)
THERMOSTAT
Thermostat temperature Thermostat Radiator pressure valve valve
+ RADIATOR
+ FAN
STANDARD 75.02 Over 6 mm 1.5OC (0.24 (167+2.7OF) in) at 90C (194OF) kPa) ___ LIMIT
ITEM
cap valve
I. I + 0. I5 kg/cm* (15.6k2.1 psi, IlO+ I5 . Approx. Approx. 105O IOOC
C (221OF) (212OF)
ose (front carb.) nt hose (rear carb.) Fuel inlet hose r cleaner Breather hose hose
Fuel pump vacuum
hose
p & carburetor
hose
Fuel cock vacuum hose Only for E-18 Carburetor balancer h Starter ,Arr <qeClamp tightening position Carburetor cleaner hose clamp Dosltlon K \A7 rottle cable (rear carb.) cable .I. hose
Air bleeder plug
Air
le cable (rear carb.) rter cable (rear carb.) Air cleaner 1 PI___
VIEW
vacuum hose
VIEW
tank water Battery breather Align the white painted marks on the throttle cable and its adjuster diator overflow
drain hose hose hose
Starter motor, generator, neutral switch and oil pressure switch leads.
Frame
VIEW
12-17 VXEOON ( 92-MODEL)
WIRING
DIAGRAM
MODEL
FOR AUSTRALIA
....... ....... .......

..-2....
3>3>mZW
mmmC3000
....... ....... ....... ....... . ~IGWCC

ou3>iitiisii5
Air supply reed valve IO N.m (1 .O kg-m, 7.0 lb-ft) 7 N.m (0.7 kg-m, 5.0 lb-ft) A
Vacuum
hose
\ To rear carbure tor Ai; supply reed valve ,,, \
To front cylinder
10 N.m (1 .O kg-m, 7.0 lb-ft)
--I
.,,,,:::r
............
.I&1
13-1 VXIOOP ( 93-MODEL)
SERVICE DATA
VALVE + GUIDE
Unit: mm (in) _
(0.0014-0.0024) Valve Valve guide I.D. IN. & EX. IN. EX. Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve stem runout IN. & EX. IN. & EX. IN. & EX. IN. & EX. IN. & EX. INNER OUTER Valve spring tension INNER 6.51-7.49 kg (14.35-16.51 Ibs) at length 32.5 mm (I .28 12.09-13.91 kg (26.65-30.67 Ibs) at length 36.0 mm (I .42 0.9-1.1 (0.035-0.043) 5.500-5.512 (0.2165-0.2170) 5.465-5.480 (0.2152-0.2157) 5.4505.465 (0.2146-0.2152)
(0.014)
stem O.D.
0.05 (0.002) Kr%2,
head thickness stem end length seat width head radial runout spring free length
kY6)
0.03 (0.001) 38.3 (1.51) 40.1 (I .58)
in)
OUTER
in) Unit: mm (in)
CAMSHAFT
Cam height
+ CYLINDER
ITEM
HEAD
STANDARD
IN. EX. 35.954-35.994 (I .41551.4171) 36.919-36.959 (1.4535-1.4551) 0.032-0.066 (0.0013-0.0026)
LIMIT
35.660 (I .4039) 36.620 (I .4417) 0.150 (0.0059)
Camshaft
journal
oil clearance
VXflOOP ( 93-MODEL) 13-2
ITEM Camshaft journal holder I.D. No. 1 Left side No.2 Right side No.1 No.2 Camshaft journal O.D. Right side Left side
STANDARD 20.012-20.025 (0.7879-0.7884) 25.012-25.025 (0.9847-0.9852) 19.95919.980 (0.7858-0.7866) 24.959-24.980 (0.9826-0.9835)
LIMIT
No. 1 Left side No.2 Right side No.1 No.2 Right side Left side
Camshaft Cam chain
runout 20-pitch length 12.00012.018 (0.4724-0.4731) 11.96611.984 (0.4711-0.4718)
0.10 (0.004) 128.9 (5.07) IN. & EX. O.D. IN. & EX.
Rocker Rocker Cylinder Cylinder
arm I.D. arm shaft head head
distortion cover distortion
0.05 (0.002) 0.05 (0.002)

ITFM . . -._.
RING
STANDARD 1 300-l 600 kPa
Unit:
mm
(in)
LIMIT 1100 kPa
i Zompression
pressure
t 13-16 185-228 kg/cm* i psi Compression difference Piston 7 _ Cylinder Piston _ Cylinder Piston to cylinder bore diam. Measure distortion ring free end gap clearance 0.045-0.055 (0.0018-0.0022) 83.000-83.015 (3.2677-3.2683) 82.950-82.965 (3.2657-3.2663) at 15 mm (0.6 in) from the skirt end. pressure
( 11 kg/cm2 1 156 psi 200 kPa
( 2 28 psi 1 kg/cm2 0.120 (0.0047) 83.085 (3.2711) 82.880 (3.2630) 0.05 (0.002) 1st 2nd R R 1 St 2nd Approx. Approx. (ip4153, (i.kE5, (0%) (09340, 0.70 (0.028) 0.70 (0.028) 0.180 (0.007) 0.150 (0.006)
Piston
ring end gap
0.20-0.35 (0.008-0.014) 0.20-0.35 (0.008-0.014)
Piston
ring groove
clearance
1 st 2nd
13-3 VXIOOP ( 93-MODEL)
ITEM Piston ring groove width 1 st 2nd Oil Piston ring thickness
STANDARD 1.01-1.03 (0.0398-0.0406) 1.21-1.23 (0.0476-0.0484) 2.51-2.53 (0.0988-0.0996) 0.970-0.990 (0.0382-0.0390) 1.1701.190 (0.0461-0.0469) 20.002-20.008 (0.7875-0.7877) 19.996-20.000 (0.7827-0.7874)
LIMIT
1 st 2nd
Piston Piston
pin bore pin O.D.
20.030 (0.7886) 19.980 IO. 7Fl66l Unit: mm (in)
CONROD + CRANKSHAFT
ITEM Corod Conrod Conrod Crank Conrod Crank small end I.D. STANDARD 20.010-20.018 (0.7878-0.7881) 0.10-0.20 (0.004-0.010) 21.95-22.00 (0.864-0.866) 22.10-22.15 (0.870-0.872) 0.024-0.042 (0.0009-0.0017) 40.982-41 .OOO (1.6135-1.6142) oil clearance O.D. bearing clearance 0.020-0.050 (0.0008-0.0020) 47.965-47.980 (1.88841.8890) 1.925-2.175 (0.0758-0.0856) 0.05-0.10 (0.0020-0.0040)
LIMIT 20.040 (0.7890) 0.30 (0.012)
big end side clearance big end width pin width big end oil clearance pin O.D. journal journal thrust thrust runout
(0.0031)
0.080 (0.003 1)
0.05 (0.002)
OIL PUMP
ITEM Oil pump reduction ratio Above Below 1.859 350 650 Oil pressure (at 60C,1400F) STANDARD (71142 x 32129) 50 psi) 92 psi) kPa (3.5 kg/cm*, kPa (6.5 kg/cm*, at 3 000 rimin LIMIT
VX8OOP 93-MODEL) 13-4 (
CLUTCH
ITEM
Clutch Clutch Drive cable release play (042, screw l/4 ---1/z turn back No.1 No.2 Drive Driven Driven Clutch plate claw width 2.65-2.95 (0.104-O. 3.45-3.55 (0.136-o. 15.816.0 (0.62-0.63) I.602 0.05 (0.063 2 0.002)
Unit:
mm (in)
STANDARD
LIMIT
plate thickness
1 16) 140)
2.35 (0.093) 3.15 (0.124) 15.0 (0.59)
plate thickness plate distortion spring free length
0.10 (0.004) No. 1 No.2 24.6 (0.97) 23.3 (0.92) Unit: mm (in) Except ratio
TRANSMISSION
ITEM
Primary reduction ratio ratio U.S.A. model Other models Final reduction Gear ratios ratio Low 2nd 3rd 4th Too Shift fork to groove clearance No. 1 r~No.2 Shift fork groove width No. 1 No.2 Shift fork thickness No. 1 No.2 Secondary reduction
STANDARD
1.690 1.133 1.096 3.090 2.285 1.631 1.227 0.851 (71/42) (30/30 (30/31 (34/l (32/l (31/l (27/22) (23/27) 0.10-0.30 (0.004-0.012) 1) 4) 9) x 17/15) x 17/15)
LIMIT
1 .OOO (25/25)
0.10-0.30 (0.004-0.012) 5.50-5.60 (0.217-0.220) 4.50-4.60 (0.177-0.181) 5.305.40 (0.209-0.213) 4.30-4.40 (0.169-o. 173)
0.50 (0.020)
13-5VXEOOP 93-MODEL) (
SHAFT
DRIVE
ITEM STANDARD
0.05-0.32 (0.002-0.013) Drive side 0.03-0.064 (0.001 -0.025) bevel gear backlash gear backlash
Unit:
mm (in)
LIMIT
CARBURETOR
ITEM
Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. Idle r/min. Float height Main jet Main Needle Throttle Pilot jet By-pass Pilot outlet Valve Starter seat jet air jet iet valve Jet needle (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.) (N.J.) (Th.V.) (P.J.) (B.P.) (P.O.) (V.S.) (G.S.) (P.S.) (P.A.J.) (PRE-SET) No.l:(#70), 0.8 type I MIKUNI BS36SS 36 mm 45coo 1100 + 100 27.72 r/min.
SPECIFICATION E-02,04,21,25,28,34
(No. I) 1 I MIKUNI BDS36SS + + + 9.1 + 1 .O mm (No.2)
(I .09 2 0.04
# 132.5 1.8 mm
1 .O mm in)
(0.36 + 0.04 in)

#I20 + 5D49-3rd
5F 108-3rd
P-4
#I15 #47.5 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 mm #25 1% turns No.2:(2.0 mm in) mm in) back mm) (PRE-SET) No.l:(#65), 0.8
t
+ #40 mm x 3PCS 1.0 mm t #22.5 1% turns No.2:(1.2 + e back mm)
0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.5-1.0
(0.02-0.04
CARBURETOR
ITEM
Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. Idle r/min. Float height Main jet I Main Needle Throttle
1
SPECIFICATION E-03
MIKUNI BS36SS 36 mm
4FJClc-I .--. -
type
(No. I)
MIKUNI
BDS36SS +
e
(No.2)
1200 2 50 r/min. 27.72 1 .O mm (I .09+0.04 in) # 132.5 1.8 mm 5E72-1st P-? 1 1 0.8 #I25 # 45 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 0.8
t 9.1 ? 1 .O mm (0.36 2 0.04 in) # IEF.!i t 5D47- 1 st P-J #I10 #Y/7 .mm x 3PCS 1.0 mm -1
(M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.) (N.J.) (Th.V.) (P.J.) (B.P.) (P.O.)
1 1
air jet iet valve
Jet needle
I Pilot jet By-pass Pilot outlet
VX8OOP 93-MODEL) 13-6 (
ITEM Valve seat

Starter jet Pilot screw Pilot air jet Throttle _ Choke cable play cable play
SPECIFICATION E-03 (V.S.)

(G.S.) (P.S.) (P.A.J)
1.5 mm
#25 (PRE-SET) No. 1 :( # 651, No.2:(2.0 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 mm in) mm in) mm)
+ #22.5 (PRE-SET) No. I:( # 651, No.2:(1.2 t +
mm)
CARBURETOR
ITEM
Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. Idle r/min. Float height Main jet Main Needle Throttle Pilot jet By-pass Pilot outlet Valve Starter seat jet air jet jet valve Jet needle (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.) (N.J.) (Th.V.1 (P.J.) (B.P.) (P.0.) (V.S.) (G.S.) (P.S.) (P.A.J.) play No.l:(#65), 0.8 type MIKUNI BS36SS 36 mm 45C20 12002 50 r/min. 27.7 2 1 .O mm (1.09+0.04 in) # 13lz.s 1.8 mm 5E72- 1 st P-7 #125 # Y.5 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 mm #25 (PRE-SET) No.2:(2.0 mm in) mm in) mm) No.l:(#65), 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.8
SPECIFICATION E-33
(No. 1) MIKUNI BDS36SS + + + 9.1 2 1 .O mm (0.36 + 0.04 in) # IZZ.5 t 5D47P-Z #llO #YU mm x 3PCS 1.0 mm t ~$22.5 (PRE-SET) No.2:(1.2 t t mm) 1 st (No.21
Pilot screw Pilot air jet Throttle Choke cable
cable play
CARBURETOR
ITEM
Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. Idle r/min. Float height Main jet Main air jet Jet needle (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.1 type MIKUNI BS36SS 36 mm 45c30 1200+ 100 5. r/min.
SPECIFICATION E-18
(No. 1) MIKUNI BDS36SS + t + 9.1 * 1 .O mm (0.36 2 0.04 in) #125 t 5D48-3rd (No.21
27.72 1 .O mm (1.09?0.04 in) #135 1.8 mm 5F 107-3rd
13-7 VX8OOP
( 93-MOOEL)
ITEM
Needle Throttle Pilot jet By-pass Pilot outlet Valve Starter seat jet jet valve (N.J.) (Th.V.) (P.J.) (B.P.) (P.0.) (V.S.) (G.S.) (P.S.) (P.A.J.) (PRE-SET) No.1:(#55), 1 0.8 1 P-4 #I15 #45 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 mm #25 2 turns No.2:(1.85 mm in) mm in)
SPECIFICATION
E-18 I 0.8 P-2 t #40 mm x 3PCS 1.0 + ~~22.5 back mm) (PRE-SET) No.l:(#65). 1 l/4 turns No.2:(1.2 + + back mm) mm
Pilot screw Pilot air iet Throttle Choke cable play cable play
0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04
CARBURETOR
ITEM
Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. Idle r/min. Float height Main Main Needle Throttle Pilot jet By-pass Pilot outlet Valve Starter seat iet iet air jet jet valve (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.) (N.J.) (Th.V.1 (P.J.) (B.P.) (P.O.) (V.S.) (G.S.1 (P.S.) (P.A.J.) (PRE-SET) 0.8 type MIKUNI BS36SS 36 mm 45c40 1 lOO+ 100 r/min. 27.7+ 1 .O mm (I .09 + 0.04 in) #135 1.8 mm 5F 108-3rd P-4 #I15 #47.5 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 mm #25 1 l/2 turns mm in) mm in) back mm) (PRE-SET) No. I:( #65), No. 1 :( # 701, No.2:(2.0 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.8
SPECIFICATION E-01
(No. 1) [ MIKUNI BDS36SS c + + 9.1 ? 1 .O mm (0.36 + 0.04 in) # 122.5 + 5D49-3rd t t #40 mm x 3PCS 1 .O mm t #22.5 1% turns No.2:(1.2 t + back mm) (No.21
Jet needle
CARBURETOR
ITEM
Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. 1100 Idle r/min. type MIKUNI BS36SS 36 mm 45c50 If: 100 r/min.
SPECIFICATION E-22,24
(No.11 MIKUNI BDS36SS t + + (No.21
VX8OOP 93-MOOEL) 13-8 (
ITEM
Float height Main Main iet air jet jet valve (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.) (N.J.) (Th.V.) (P.J.) (B.P.) (P.O.) (V.S.) (G.S.) (P.S.) (P.A.J.) (PRE-SET) No.1:(#70), 0.8 1 1 27.72 1 .O nim (1.09 + 0.04 in) # 132.5 1.8 mm 5F 108-3rd P-4 #I15 #47.5 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 mm #25 1 l/s turns No.2:(2.0
SPECIFICATION E-22,24
(0.36
9.1 2 1 ^ ^_. .O mm I ._ -2 O.U4 In) # 120 + 5D49-3rd t t #40
Jet needle Needle Throttle Pilot jet By-pass Pilot outlet Valve Starter seat jet
0.8
mm x 3PCS 1.0 mm + #22.5
back mm)
(PRE-SET) No.l:(#65),
1 turn back No.2:(1.2 + t mm)
0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04
mm in) mm in)
CARBURETOR
ITEM
Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. Idle r/min. Float height Main jet Main air iet jet valve Jet needle Needle Throttle Pilot jet By-pass Pilot outlet Valve Starter seat jet (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.) (N.J.) fTh.V.) (P.J.) (B.P.) (P.O.) t (V.S.) (G.S.) (P.S.) (P.A.J.) (PRE-SET) No. 1 :( # 70), I 0.8 1.8 mm 5F108-3rd P-4 #I15 #47.5 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm I I back mm) (PRE-SET) No.1 :(#65), 1.5 mm #25 1 l/a turns No.2 :(2.0 5D49-3rd P-6 t #40 8 mm x 3PCS 1 .O mm + # 22.5 1
1116
SPECIFICATION
U-tvoe MIKUNI BS36SS 36 mm 45C60 1 1002 100 r/min. 27.7 2 1 .O mm (1.09kO.04 in) (No. 1 i of E-22 MIKUNI BDS36SS t t t 9.1 + 1.0 mm (0.36 t 0.04 in) # 122.5 (No.2)
type
turns
back mm)
No.2:(1.2 t t
0.51 .O mm (0.02-0.04 in) 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 mm in)
13-9 VX8OOP ( 93-MODEL)
CARBURETOR
ITEM Carburetor Bore size I.D. No. Idle r/min. Float Main Main Needle Throttle Pilot iet By-pass Pilot outlet Valve Starter seat jet height jet air jet jet valve (M.J.) (M.A.J.) (J.N.1 (N.J.) (Th.V.1 (P.J.) (B.P.) (P.0.) (V.S.) (G.S.) (P.S.) (P.A.J.) (PRE-SET) No.1:(#70), 1 0.8 / 1 1002 type MIKUNI BS36SS 36 mm 45c70 100 r/min. SPECIFICATION E-17 (No. I) MIKUNI BDS36SS + + t 9.1 2 1 .O mm (0.36 + 0.04 in) # 122.5 + 5D49-3rd P-6 t #40 0.8 mm x 3PCS 1.0 mm + #22.5 back mm) (PRE-SET) No.l:(#65), 1 l/4 turns No.2:(1.2 + + back mm) (No.21 _
27.72 1 .O mm (1.09 2 0.04 in) #I35 1.8 mm 5F 108-3rd P-4 #I15 #47.5 mm x 2PCS 0.8 mm 1.5 mm #25 13/s turns No.2:(2.0 mm in) mm in)
Jet needle
0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04
ELECTRICAL
ITEM Ignition timing SPECIFICATION 5 B.T.D.C. Below 1 650 r/min. and Above 3 500 r/min. 30 B.T.D.C. 5 B.T.D.C. Below 1 625 r/min. and Above 3 750 r/min. 32 B.T.D.C. Firing Spark order plug Type Gap Spark Signal Ignition performance coil coil resistance resistance Primary Secondary Generator no-load voltage (When engine cold) ~ Regulated Starter voltage brush length motor More More than than 65V Over 1.2 N.G.K.: DPR8EA-9 ND: X24EPBlJ9 0.8-0.9 (0.031-0.035) 8 (0.31 at 1 atm. 117 230 1;2(G-BI) fi (G-BI) 2-6 19-27 (AC) 9 kR r/min. r/min. Approx. Approx. 1
Unit:
mm (in)
NOTE U.S.A. model Other models
U.S.A. Other @ tap-Q
model models tap
Plu cap+ tap a U.S.A. Other model models
at 5 000
75 V (AC) at 5 000 15.5 V at 5 000 9 (0.35)
13.5-
r/min. N.D.
Limit:
VXIOOP ( 93-MODEL) 13-10
ITEM Commutator Starter Battery relay under-cut resistance Type designation Capacity Standard electrolyte S.G. Fuse size / Headliaht lanition/Fan Signal Main
STANDARD Limit: 0.2 2-6 (0.008) Q YB16B-A 12V57.6kC 1.28 (lGAh)/lOHR (68OF)
NOTE
at 20C 10 A
10A 10 A 25 A
WATTAGE
ITEM Headlight Tail/Brake Turn signal Speedometer Tachometer Water Turn High temp. signal beam light light light light indicator indicator indicator light liaht 1 4 (Execpt indicator light light light HI LO SPECIFICATION 60 55 5121 21 3.4 1.7 x 2PCS 3 3.4 1.7 3.4 3.4 5 E-03,28,33 models) Unit: I height ( 13.54, Brake disc thickness Front Rear Brake Master Master Brake disc runout bore piston cylinder diam. bore Front Front Rear cylinder cylinder caliper Front Rear Front Rear 12.70012.743 (0.5000-0.5017) 12.65712.684 (0.4983-0.4993) 33.960-34.036 (1.33701.3400) 27.000-27.076 (1.06301.0660) 42.850-42.926 (1.68701.6900) 5.5kO.2 (0.197 2 0.008) 6.02 0.2 (0.236 2 0.008) STANDARD I
Unit:W
Neutral License Position
indicator light light
Oil oressure
BRAKE
WHEEL
ITEM pedal
mm
(in)
LIMIT
Rear brake
5.5 (0.22) 0.30 (0.012)
Rear
13-11 VX8OOP ( 93-MODEL)
SUSPENSION
ITEM Front fork stroke Front fork spring free length STANDARD 150 (5.9) 353 (13.9) 348 (13.7) Front fork oil level 142 (5.59) 138 (5.43) Rear wheel travel 118 (4.64) 119 (4.68) Swingarm pivot shaft runout 0.30 (0.012) LIMIT
Unit:
mm (in)
NOTE
TIRE PRESSURE
NORMAL COLD INFLATION TIRE PRESSURE FRONT REAR SOLO kPa 225 250 RIDING psi 33 36 kg/cm2 2.25 2.50 RIDING DUAL kPa 225 280 RIDING psi 33 41 kg/cm2 2.25 2.80
VX8OOP ( 93-MODEL) 13-12

ITEM Fuel type SPECIFICATION Use only unleaded gasoline of at least 87 or 91 octane or pump octane (q) higher rated by the research method. Gasoline containing MTBE (Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether), less than 10% ethanol, or less than 5% methanol with appropriate cosolvents and corrosion inhibitor is permissible. Use only unleaded gasoline of at least 87 method) or 91 octane pump octane ( 9 or higher rated by the Research Method. Gasoline used should be graded 85-95 octane or higher. An unleaded gasoline is recommended. Fuel tank including reserve (4.8/4.0 (5.0/4.2 reserve (I. l/O.9 Engine oil type Engine oil capacity SAE Change 18.0 L US/Imp 19.0 L US/Imp 4.0 L US/Imp gal gal) gal) NOTE
U.S.A.model
Canada
model
Other
models
lOW/40,
API SE or SF 2 400 ml (2.5/2.1 US/Imp qt)
Front fork oil type Front fork oil capacity (each leg)
Fork oil # 10 388 (13.1/13.7 (I 3.2/l ml US/Imp 02) oz) E-01,03,28,33 models Other models
392 ml 3.8 US/Imp
Final bevel
gear oil type with
Final bevel gear oil capacity Brake fluid type Coolant capacity
200-220 (6.8/7.0-7.4/7.7 DOT4
1 700 ml (1.8/1.5 US/Imp
qt)
THERMOSTAT
+ RADIATOR
+ FAN
STANDARD 75.0* Over 1.5OC (167+2.7OF) in) at 90C (194OF) I LIMIT
I Thermostat
temperature Thermostat Radiator pressure
ITEM valve valve
6 mm (0.24
cap valve
1.1 2 0.15 kg/cm2 (15.622.1 psi, 1 IO? 15 kPa) Approx. Approx. 105 100C C (22lOF) (212OF)
Electric fan thermoswitch operating temoerature
http
TWO winterizing the bike motorcycle news (uk) Search the eu archives
http://vx800.net/Links.htm7/23/2005 12:21:29 PM
US
US - Rally at TWO - May 16th - 18th Email Scott Bogue US - Spud run, Boise Idaho May 24-26 Italian Rally - 10-13 July 2003
http://vx800.net/Rallies2002.html7/23/2005 12:21:30 PM
Pictures of some other bikes
Pictures of some other bikes
1957 Panther 100 1926 Indian (thanks to Fowler) 1948 Indian Chief (thanks to Fowler) 1937 Crocker (thanks to Fowler)
http://vx800.net/OtherBikes/pictures_of_some_other_bikes.htm7/23/2005 12:21:31 PM
1957 Panther 100
1957 Panther 100

Chassis
Wheelbase 56 inches/1422mm Seat Height - 31 inches/787mm Brakes - 7inch single leading shoe front, 8 inch rear 6volt electrics
Engine
Ohv single cylinder four-stroke Capacity - 598cc Compression ratio - 6.5:1 Power Output: 23hp at 5500rpm 4 speed gearbox, right side change
Top speed 75mph/120kph Fuel consumption - 75mpg
http://vx800.net/OtherBikes/Panther/1957_panther_100.htm7/23/2005 12:21:32 PM
http://vx800.net/OtherBikes/Panther/Panther.jpg
http://vx800.net/OtherBikes/Panther/Panther.jpg7/23/2005 12:21:34 PM
1926 Indian
1926 Indian
http://vx800.net/OtherBikes/Indian/1926_indian.htm7/23/2005 12:21:35 PM
http://vx800.net/OtherBikes/Indian/1926_Indian.jpg
http://vx800.net/OtherBikes/Indian/1926_Indian.jpg7/23/2005 12:21:37 PM
1948 Indian Chief
1948 Indian Chief
http://vx800.net/OtherBikes/Indian/1948_indian_chief.htm7/23/2005 12:21:38 PM
http://vx800.net/OtherBikes/Indian/1948_Indian_Chief.jpg
http://vx800.net/OtherBikes/Indian/1948_Indian_Chief.jpg7/23/2005 12:21:40 PM
1937 Crocker
1937 Crocker
http://vx800.net/OtherBikes/crocker/1937_crocker.htm7/23/2005 12:21:41 PM
http://vx800.net/OtherBikes/crocker/1937_Crocker.jpg
http://vx800.net/OtherBikes/crocker/1937_Crocker.jpg7/23/2005 12:21:44 PM
http://vx800.net/TomB/tom.jpg
http://vx800.net/TomB/tom.jpg7/23/2005 12:21:45 PM
Neil visits Brian
Neil visits Brian
Neil visited me for a quick tech session. Here is his VX800 which he has customised.
1. Baglux tank cover www.baglux.co.uk and tank bag 2. Small Givi bags 3. Custom rack (he had it made from a old rack) that has the plate for a Givi Top box 4. BSM pipes and muffler
http://vx800.net/neil/neil.htm (1 of 2)7/23/2005 12:21:47 PM
Neil visits Brian
http://vx800.net/neil/neil.htm (2 of 2)7/23/2005 12:21:47 PM
http://vx800.net/stevensmith/bandit1.jpg
http://vx800.net/stevensmith/bandit1.jpg7/23/2005 12:21:49 PM
http://vx800.net/stevensmith/bandit2.jpg
http://vx800.net/stevensmith/bandit2.jpg7/23/2005 12:21:50 PM
http://vx800.net/Trike/trike.jpg
http://vx800.net/Trike/trike.jpg7/23/2005 12:21:51 PM
Sachs B805
Sachs B805
Fowler took these pictures whilst he was in Austria.
Have a look around and see how close it is to a VX800. The obvious difference is that the rear hub looks like it is off an Intruder 800 - hence the spoked wheel and drum brake.
Also compare it with the prototype for the styling -
http://vx800.net/sachs/sachs_b805.htm (1 of 2)7/23/2005 12:21:54 PM
Sachs B805
The B805 is a more stylish version on the standard Sachs 800 Roadster
http://vx800.net/sachs/sachs_b805.htm (2 of 2)7/23/2005 12:21:54 PM
http://vx800.net/sachs/Sachs%20B805-1.JPG
http://vx800.net/sachs/Sachs%20B805-1.JPG7/23/2005 12:21:56 PM
Bob
Bob's quads on his VX800
Bobby, Rebekah, Sydney & Amanda
http://vx800.net/BobFillippini/bob.htm7/23/2005 12:22:08 PM
Brian's New VX's - 6 November 2004
On 5th November I rented a trailer to go and pickup my VX's #11 and #12 Click on the pictures for full size image
http://vx800.net/brian/newvx/new_vxs_6november.htm (1 of 2)7/23/2005 12:22:09 PM
Brian's New VX's - 6 November 2004
http://vx800.net/brian/newvx/new_vxs_6november.htm (2 of 2)7/23/2005 12:22:09 PM
http://vx800.net/brian/newvx/fromfrontJPG.jpg
http://vx800.net/brian/newvx/fromfrontJPG.jpg7/23/2005 12:22:12 PM
http://vx800.net/brian/newvx/front%20top.JPG
http://vx800.net/brian/newvx/front%20top.JPG7/23/2005 12:22:14 PM
http://vx800.net/brian/newvx/ontrailer2.JPG
http://vx800.net/brian/newvx/ontrailer2.JPG7/23/2005 12:22:16 PM
http://vx800.net/brian/newvx/ontrailer.JPG
http://vx800.net/brian/newvx/ontrailer.JPG7/23/2005 12:22:18 PM
VX800
VX800's #6, #7
I was offered a deal not to be missed by Andre (from Belgium) on two VX800's. Both these bikes need some care and attention, but what the heck:))
Andre had dismantled one VX and partly dismantled the other. However we managed to cram them both in my minibus.
http://vx800.net/brian/GettingAndresvxs/GettingVXs.htm7/23/2005 12:22:19 PM
http://vx800.net/brian/GettingAndresvxs/bus1.JPG
http://vx800.net/brian/GettingAndresvxs/bus1.JPG7/23/2005 12:22:20 PM
Oregon Trip - Snake River
Last day of my trip round Oregon - on the way home now. Having had an unsuccessful try at the viewpoint at Hell's Canyon (due to rain on the mountain top) we descended into warmer weather and stopped at this rest point alongside the Snake River reservoir. This was just before we crossed from Oregon into Idaho and home to the RRR
Here are Rick and Bruce relaxing - the water was calm the silence deafening. Yet another magnificent memory from a memorable journey.
Just as we were leaving we spotted a couple leaving. You can tell they are travelling light:)) Also a picture of 'my' VX800
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/snake%20river/snakeRiver.htm (1 of 2)7/23/2005 12:22:25 PM
Just feast your eyes on the view - you will need to maximise these to get the full benefit
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/snake%20river/snakeRiver.htm (2 of 2)7/23/2005 12:22:25 PM
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/snake%20river/bruce.JPG
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/snake%20river/bruce.JPG7/23/2005 12:22:27 PM
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/snake%20river/bruce2.JPG
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/snake%20river/bruce2.JPG7/23/2005 12:22:29 PM
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/snake%20river/rick.JPG
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/snake%20river/rick.JPG7/23/2005 12:22:32 PM
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/snake%20river/rick_bruce.JPG
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/snake%20river/rick_bruce.JPG7/23/2005 12:22:35 PM
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/snake%20river/rig.JPG
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/snake%20river/rig.JPG7/23/2005 12:22:38 PM
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/snake%20river/brianbike.JPG
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/snake%20river/brianbike.JPG7/23/2005 12:22:40 PM
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/snake%20river/view1.JPG
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/snake%20river/view1.JPG7/23/2005 12:22:42 PM
Here we are parked up
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/clearlake/clearlake.htm (1 of 3)7/23/2005 12:22:51 PM
While we were there the wildlife showed itself. We saw an osprey (below) , also blue jays, swallows, eagles etc
Just feast your eyes on the view - you will need to maximise these to get the full benefit
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/clearlake/bruce.JPG
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/clearlake/bruce.JPG7/23/2005 12:22:53 PM
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/clearlake/rick.JPG
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/clearlake/rick.JPG7/23/2005 12:22:55 PM
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/clearlake/rick2.JPG
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/clearlake/rick2.JPG7/23/2005 12:22:57 PM
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/clearlake/bikes.JPG
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/clearlake/bikes.JPG7/23/2005 12:22:59 PM
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/clearlake/brianbike.JPG
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/clearlake/brianbike.JPG7/23/2005 12:23:01 PM
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/clearlake/osprey.JPG
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/clearlake/osprey.JPG7/23/2005 12:23:03 PM
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/clearlake/ducks.JPG
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/clearlake/ducks.JPG7/23/2005 12:23:04 PM
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/clearlake/view1.JPG
http://vx800.net/sr3/oregontrip/clearlake/view1.JPG7/23/2005 12:23:06 PM
http://vx800.net/vx80021.jpg
http://vx800.net/vx80021.jpg7/23/2005 12:23:17 PM
http://vx800.net/jacobkruger/vx800-2.jpg
http://vx800.net/jacobkruger/vx800-2.jpg7/23/2005 12:23:18 PM
TWO 2004
Steven Smith's Pictures from TWO 2004 Page 1 of 11
#1 Clark Ball's & Jim Chen's VX with Trish's legs modeling these 2 fine machines
http://vx800.net/two2004/StevenSmith/two2004.htm (1 of 4)7/23/2005 12:23:20 PM
TWO 2004
#2 Jim Chen's Stock'Ass-Sore' Seat & John Deplanque's FJR 1300
TWO 2004
#3 Jim Chen, Trish Bogue, & Clark Ball
#4 Clark Ball & Fowler Hegler
TWO 2004
#5 Terry Burns, Fowler Hegler, Scott & Trish Bogue, Clark Ball and John Deplanque
Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
Steven Smith
#6 Trish, Clark, John, & Jim
http://vx800.net/two2004/StevenSmith/two2004-2.htm (1 of 4)7/23/2005 12:23:21 PM
Steven Smith
#7 Terry, Fowler, Scott & Trish, Clark John, & Jim
Steven Smith
#8 Terry & Most of Scott by Terry's purty VX800
#9 Front of TWO
Steven Smith
#10 (in front)Della Farney, Steven Smith, Jim Chen, (back) Chris Etzbach, Fowler Hegler, Mike & Maria Stefanson
Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
Steven Smith
#11 Steven Smith, Jim Chen, Clark Ball, Terry Burns & Scott Bogue's Hair
Steven Smith
#12 Rick Schott, Scott, John, Steven, Jim, Clark
Steven Smith
#13 Glen Farney, Terry Burns's good side & Clark Ball caught doing something
#14 Kinda funny how it says {Do Not Bend} but came out of the box bent
Steven Smith
#15 Another clear shot of the not to be bent envelope
Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
Steven Smith
#16 Five VX's & an FJR{L to R} Terry B., John D.,Jim C., GT, Clark B., Steven S.
Steven Smith
#17 Chris's 1200 Bandit, Rick's RF900, & Terry's VX800
Steven Smith
#18 Glen Farney's VX800 & Della Farney's GS500
#19 More Bikes
Steven Smith
#20 Doc Steve and his illegal racebike
Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Steven Smith
#21 Racebike in a full speed turn between the white lines
Steven Smith
#22 Scene from the road at TWO early
Steven Smith
#23 Early Sat. morning and the war stories are starting
#24 John D. and his FJR1300
Steven Smith
#25 Clark B. GT, & Mike Beckman by Mike's VX800
Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
Steven Smith
#26 Fowler by his VX800 mumbling something about quit yer yappin and ride!
Steven Smith
#27 Deborah Beckman and her 883 Sportster, well it was a V-Twin:)
Steven Smith
#28 Its too bright out to be standin talkin
#29 Bike's in the shelter
Steven Smith
#30 Steve Bowen's CBR600, Christopher Harkins's VX800, & Mike Beckman's VX800
Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
Steven Smith
#31 Goodie table for Raffle and Auction
Steven Smith
#32 Goodie Table,, the other end
Steven Smith
#33 Mike & Maria Stefanson, Scott, & Rick S.
#34 [From Bottom Center,Clockwise]Mike & Susan Heathman,Deborah Beckman,Dan Flowers & Vicky,Steve Bowen,Terry Burns,John Deplanque & Mike Beckman
Steven Smith
#35 Guess who's B-Day
Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
Steven Smith
#36 Trish makin smoke
Steven Smith
#37 She says she is 29, doesn't look a day over 25 to me
Steven Smith
#38 Let the Auction begin
#39 The auction has everyone captivated and on the edge of their seats
Steven Smith
#40 Glen is another of the lucky winners
Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
Steven Smith
#41 Steven Smith's VX & Terry Burns's VX
Steven Smith
#42 Joey Peterson's low mileage VX800
Steven Smith
#43 Joey's VX & GT's VX
#44 Doc Steve's CBR600, Christopher Harkin's VX, Mike Beckman's VX, & Terry Burns lookin at that other V-Twin!! LOL
Steven Smith
#45 Terry, Mike, & Christopher
Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
Steven Smith
#46 Scenic view from the porch of the trailer ~VX800 Lodging Hall
Steven Smith
#47 Tent Grounds,, Listen to what the sign says
#48 Inside the Main Eating, Gathering Lodge
Steven Smith
#49 Upstairs Living room
#50 Upstairs Kitchen
Steven Smith
Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
Steven Smith
#51 Deck area at the main Lodge
Steven Smith
#52 Poor Bastard missed the bridge
#53 One of several bikes put around the grounds as landmarks
Steven Smith
#54 Another landmark at the edge of a tent camping area
#55 The VX800 Lodging Hall
Steven Smith
#56 Monday moring and the last 3 left to leave Scott, Steve S., & Fowler
Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
New Page 1
Clutch Bracket Failure
On two VX's we have had failure of the bracket at the clutch end of the cable
The bracket is a C shape, held onto the clutch actuator arm by a rivet. In my case one side of the arm has broken
http://vx800.net/workshop/Cclutchbracket.htm (1 of 4)7/23/2005 12:23:42 PM
New Page 1
Front view - looks OK, but feel behind and you can feel the rough edge where it has broken
New Page 1
Back view
New Page 1
Side view clearly shows the break
If this had carried on then the remaining connection would have work hardened from the repeated pulling on of the clutch and eventually snapped off as it did on the other VX800
http://vx800.net/jack_aged2.jpg
http://vx800.net/jack_aged2.jpg7/23/2005 12:23:43 PM
http://vx800.net/briancomuter.jpg
http://vx800.net/briancomuter.jpg7/23/2005 12:23:45 PM
http://vx800.net/Bobby%20IV.jpg
http://vx800.net/Bobby%20IV.jpg7/23/2005 12:23:46 PM
http://vx800.net/photos3/JD_WITNEY_CLUTCH_BRACKET.JPG
http://vx800.net/photos3/JD_WITNEY_CLUTCH_BRACKET.JPG7/23/2005 12:23:47 PM
http://vx800.net/photos3/bruce.jpg
http://vx800.net/photos3/bruce.jpg7/23/2005 12:23:49 PM
http://vx800.net/photos3/2.jpg
http://vx800.net/photos3/2.jpg (1 of 2)7/23/2005 12:23:51 PM
http://vx800.net/photos3/2.jpg
http://vx800.net/photos3/2.jpg (2 of 2)7/23/2005 12:23:51 PM
http://vx800.net/brian/brian_squibb.jpg
http://vx800.net/brian/brian_squibb.jpg7/23/2005 12:23:52 PM
Brian
Brian's VX#7
http://vx800.net/brian/vx7/vx7.htm (1 of 2)7/23/2005 12:23:54 PM
Brian
http://vx800.net/brian/vx7/vx7.htm (2 of 2)7/23/2005 12:23:54 PM
http://vx800.net/brian/clock/vx800_clock.JPG
http://vx800.net/brian/clock/vx800_clock.JPG7/23/2005 12:23:55 PM
http://vx800.net/photos/BobFillippini/mvc-627x_jpg.JPG
http://vx800.net/photos/BobFillippini/mvc-627x_jpg.JPG7/23/2005 12:23:57 PM
Scott Bogue
Scott Bogue's Bar End Mirrors and Tractor Lights
http://vx800.net/Scott/scott_bogue.htm (1 of 2)7/23/2005 12:24:00 PM
Scott Bogue
http://vx800.net/Scott/scott_bogue.htm (2 of 2)7/23/2005 12:24:00 PM
http://vx800.net/andrenstejn.JPG
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Making a Bobbin for a cargo net

I want to attach a cargo net to the top of my Givi Top box so that when I am riding on a long journey I slip my waterproof trousers under it. This means that if it rains I can quickly get them out without getting the rest of the contents wet, and likewise when it stops raining I can take them off and put them underneath the cargo net, so they dry in the open air rather than on my clothes in the box. Also I fill my topbox to the point where the lid doesn't shut, so the cargo net will allow me to overfill the box and hold the lid down. The problem is that the topbox has smooth sides with nowhere to hook the net onto. I want it particularly on the box itself then if I take the box off then the net and contents come with me. If I attach the net to the rack then I have to take the net off and carry the contents separately - not easy when carrying a helmet as well. So I felt the best approach would be to make bobbins that are attached to the box using 6mm bolts. As I haven't seen any being sold anywhere, I thought I would make them.
Step 1 - Get the right size bar of metal.
I have used a half inch bar of aluminium which I will face down to 12mm
http://vx800.net/lathe/bobbin/bobbin.htm (1 of 9)7/23/2005 12:24:04 PM
I used aluminium for the prototype but will switch to stainless for the production version So the first task is to face off the end in the lathe so it is parallel and square
Then turn off about 1/2mm so it is round
Now I am ready to make the groove for the cargo net hook. So I use the same 45degree tool to make the groove
Now all that is left is drilling the hole for the bolt - 6.3mm to allow clearance for the bolt, and also lets it spin if need be
and cutting it off the bar
In order to allow the head of the allen bolt to be flush it is necessary to counterbore - luckily I have the correct drill for that. The 'nose' of the drill goes down the 6.3mm bolt hole that we previously drilled. This ensures the head of the bolt is centred correctly
And there - all done
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New Page 1
Sandy's VX800 For Sale
1993 black vx800 for sale in Asheville NC. I am the original owner-bought new in 1995. Excellent condition, garaged and covered 1993 Suzuki vx800 black--41,000 miles Added items: Race Tech front fork springs Race Tech Gold valve cartridge emulators Rifle Sport Fairing and hand flares Givi wing rack & mounting kit with extra bracket Givi E360 Hard Luggage Fiamm Dual Horns Throttlemeister throttle lock Givi top case wired for electrics (clothing or charger) Wired for chatterbox communicators-radio/PTT/audio brookstone clock also for sale separately for this bike: Fork boots available not installed Corbin leather seat available Sandy phone # 828 299 3504 or e-mail me directly 2otterbikers@charter.net
$2800 with all the extras
$2200 without
http://vx800.net/sandy/sandy.htm (1 of 2)7/23/2005 12:24:08 PM
New Page 1
http://vx800.net/sandy/sandy.htm (2 of 2)7/23/2005 12:24:08 PM
Daytona 2003
Daytona 2003
Thought I would share with y'all my experience from last week.
Pictures A couple of weeks ago, my co-worker left a post-it on my desk which said "Bob, CR is looking for a couple of people to help him in the pit at Daytona. He was wondering if you would be interested. Here's his cell number." Well, that night I cleared it with my wife Diane (who said "What, are you kidding? You have to go!") and gave him a call. After introductions, I let him know that I was a pretty slow wrench...but was very interested in this once-in-a-lifetime experience. Well, I drove down to his home in Charlotte on Tuesday (3/4/03), and me, him, and his girlfriend Jen drove down to Jacksonville that evening. We met up with his father and his friend Marty, who both had transported the race bikes down to the Daytona track a few days prior. CR's full name is C.R. Gittere, and this past year he earned plate #81. He mostly races in the SE U.S.A., mostly with WERA. I think you can find out more info about him at www.quickcritter.com but I have not been there yet. Anyway, he planned to run both the Superstock and the Superbike race at Daytona. He runs the Suzuki GSXR's, and apparently had picked up the GSXR-1000 about a month prior to this when he decided to give it a go. So, on Wednesday we went down to the track and I got my introduction to his 750 and his new 1000 during the practices that day. We had to swap out the rear mono twice on the 1000 until it was close enough to dial the rest of the way in. He also tried to dyno the bike this day but the guys at the dyno blistered his rear tire. I was amazed at how hard the track was on tires. We were measuring tire temps and pressures on each set of tires, looking for the combination that gave us the best performance and life. Thursday morning we put new tread on both bikes for morning practices, and Thursday afternoon was qualifications. I had always thought that qualifications were held with just "you" running around the track, but it is just the same as a practice session with everyone trying to achieve their
http://vx800.net/daytona_2003.htm (1 of 3)7/23/2005 12:24:08 PM
Daytona 2003
quickest lap time during the 1 hour session. (They had two sessions, one for even numbered bikes, then one for odd numbered bikes). Anyway, he must have caught some nice drafting during this session because he qualified with a 1:56.0??. (To qualify, you must run a speed within 12% of the fastest bike on the track). Marty and I toasted a couple of beers to this achievement....We were in the Show! Friday morning started out the same. We were getting good at changing tires and safety wiring at this point. Partway through the morning practice session he came in and I installed another new rear tire. He went back out onto the track and I waited, waited, and never saw him come back around. I was getting really concerned when I finally saw him walking back through the hot pit area and he just said "get the 750 ready". He finished the practice session on that and I never said a word to him until the session was over and we were walking back to the garage. He had a slow speed low side on the new tire. When we got back to the garage, Marty had already fixed the shifter and the brake lever, and was working on the steering damper. Since we could not find one of the bolts for that, we concluded that was probably the true cause of the get-off. The worst damage was damage to the borrowed plastic lowers and pan. After the Friday morning practice runs, and most of the even number qualification session...it started raining. We were bummed, but the 1000 was fixed...and we found out we were in starting position 39....FIRST WAVE! We spent Friday afternoon finishing assembly on a extra-capacity fuel tank, complete with vent tube. I am not sure of the exact fill time, but with one of those nascar plunge style quick fill tanks we were able to put in 5+ gallons in 4.??seconds. Friday evening we went downtown. This was the only evening that we went downtown since we were driving back and forth to Jacksonville (Jen's Parent's) house every night. On the way down I spied the Boot Hill Saloon. And when we parked about 3 blocks from there I decided that I was going back for a beer and a tee-shirt. Well, it took me 45 minutes to walk back over there. Wow, very very crowded sidewalks. Saturday we slept in till 7:30, ate breakfast, and got to the track around 11:00...I guess. There was no practice sessions for us since the Supercross, etc were being run today. Me and Marty did some sight seeing at the track, having our pictures taken with the Ducati girls, watching Carmichael win #4, etc. Then we went back to the garage and installed a quick change rear axle
Daytona 2003
system on the 1000. Sunday morning we got there early, put on new tires again, pulled off the extra-capacity fuel tank because we decided that tires would be our limiting factor and we might as well not haul around extra fuel, ran some practice laps, and were ready for the race. As you probably know, it started raining about 10 minutes before the race...and never stopped. Monday morning we arrived and went through the routine again. The race was to begin at 11:00 am and the skys were clear. At 10:45 CR decided to change from a 41 tooth sprocket to a 40 because the winds were swinging around and blowing from a different direction than they had all week long. We pulled the rear wheel, changed the sprocket, tightened the chain...which meant moving the quick change axle assembly, and re-trueing the rear wheel. During the National Anthem I took off my cap and was still busy putting safety wire through the tiny bolts on the rear assembly. (I was worried about this, but my Nascar friend later assured me that you just continue working, and this is not a show of disrespect). He ended up 25th. He might have done a little better but he almost lost it coming off the infield and up onto the inclined track and his "tip-over" ignition cut-out switch tripped and he lost 3 or 4 positions while trying to reset it. It took me and Marty about 27 seconds to change the rear tire. An eternity compared to the factory guys, but a once-in-a-lifetime experience for us.
VX800 for Sale
VX800 for Sale

March 2003
Mitch has decided sell his VX800, and, as he has asked me to go gently on him, I can only say he is only selling the VX to pay for psychiatrist's bills. This is his description of the beautiful VX he is savagely discarding for just a few bucks :)) Now is your chance for a sorted VX800 before he changes his mind.
Interested? mail him here - TheBigJabrowski
I am located in Kalamazoo Michigan which is in the southwest portion of the state, about 2 1/2 hours northeast of chicago. 93 Black VX800 16,600 miles Brand New BT-020 with 250 miles on them. Progressive front springs last fall. Jota adjustable bars. aftermarket short teardrop mirrors. Brand new OEM air filters 150 miles on them. OEM bikini fairing. Brand new battery with 100 miles on it. Mobile 1 synthetic changed every 750 - 1000 miles. Short stalk turn signals on back. Half tank bra - not shown in pictures. New brake pads about 1500 miles on them.
http://vx800.net/mitch/vx800_for_sale.htm (1 of 3)7/23/2005 12:24:10 PM
VX800 for Sale
New speedo cable last summer. Bike has never been down. No dents, bodywork is in excellent shape. I also have 2 new oil filters to go with it.
VX800 for Sale
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Motor Cycle News June 1990
Motor Cycle News (UK) June 1990
Short Test of VX800
http://vx800.net/mcn/june1990/motor_cycle_news_june_1990.htm7/23/2005 12:24:18 PM
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Kevin Gaddes VX800
I live in live in Sydney Australia.
The bike is a back 90 with 86000km, stainless brake lines and pipes, a SuperTrapp can, Koni rear shocks and I am told Progressive fork springs. I have also designed and built an alarm - you can see the LED on the ducktail. Interested folks can email me about that. - Kevin Gaddes
http://vx800.net/KevinGaddes/kevin.html7/23/2005 12:24:25 PM
Mike Remboldt's VX800 with Hannigan Fairing

The Purple Monster
http://vx800.net/Hannigan/hannigan.html7/23/2005 12:24:30 PM
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Brian
Brian's 1950's Sphere Lathe (clone of Atlas aka Sears Craftsman)

Acknowledgments to Tony Griffiths for the historical background
The Atlas lathe

The very first 10-inch (10.25" x 24.5") Atlas lathe (illustrated at the bottom of this page) was introduced during 1934; the machine was considerably more robust than the two-year old Series -9 it replaced, especially in the area of the headstock where a completely redesigned casting resulted in a much stiffer structure. A conventional backgear assembly was bolted to the back of the headstock and the spindle-speed range, with a two-step pulley on the motor and countershaft, a very useful 28 to 2072 r.p.m. In general appearance the rest of the machine did not differ greatly from the original model and a further two years passed before the next revision, in 1936, addressed many of the machine's remaining weaknesses this model being almost the final evolutionary form of the machine (apart from the power cross feed Model 10-F introduced a year later) and was to continued in production largely unchanged until the late 1950s when it was replaced by a heavily-redesigned 12-inch version. The 1936 lathe was enormously improved in almost every area: the feet were greatly extended to help stiffen the bed, the saddle was given tapered arms and the compound slide redesigned on more robust lines and fitted with zeroing micrometer dials. The headstock was further stiffened and the tailstock, strengthened and redesigned so as to "reach" further over the carriage, was provided with a "dip oiler" (often holding white lead) to lubricate the back centre. The changewheel cover, now in cast aluminum (or plastic for some markets) was held fast by a spring-loaded catch and some versions, especially those intended for use in educational and training establishments, were available with complete guarding of the drive belts. The swing of the lathe was 101/4" and between centres capacities of 18", 24" , 30" and 36" were all available. 16 spindle speeds were provided, from approximately 28 to 2072 rpm, depending on the motor used. The spindle was bored through 25/32", held a 3 Morse taper centre and was provided with a useful 60 hole, plunger-locked indexing device; the tailstock was No. 2 Morse. The backgear assembly was bolted to the back of the headstock, so allowing the machine to be offered without this facility in simpler "utility" versions at a lower price. Two designs of countershaft were offered, both with grease-cup lubricated Hyatt roller bearings held within simple but ingenious-designed self-aligning housings: the "Horizontal" bolted to the bench at the back of the lathe (and made the whole assembly rather deep front to back) and the "Vertical" that was attached to the back of the bed and headstock and made a much more compact and portable unit.
Picture of 1936 Lathe - here
http://vx800.net/lathe/lathe.htm (1 of 3)7/23/2005 12:24:38 PM
Brian
The copies
Novel use was made of new materials and some models, especially those either manufactured or assembled in England under the "Sphere", "Halifax" and "Acorntools" labels had significant parts made from an early form of black plastic - whilst on all models the gearwheels, handwheels, pulleys, clasp nuts and other small parts were made from "Zamak", a combination of aluminum, magnesium, copper and zinc that was pressure injected into hardened-steel dies. Interestingly, the English versions, Sphere and Halifax, did not just sport different badges but had either the "maker's" name cast into the bed foot together with the claim "British made" (Sphere) or considerable mechanical differences (Halifax) showing that they must either have been specially constructed by Atlas or copied or manufactured under licence in England. The Halifax in particular incorporated several significant changes: a screwcutting gearbox of the post-1958 type - but fitted to the earlier 10F-type lathe, tumble reverse (like the USA Craftsman model) instead of the leadscrew "reversing gearbox", plastic pulleys and a wider cross slide. The Sphere also had the wider cross slide and used plastic not only for the matching headstock and countershaft pulleys but also for the changewheel and headstock covers and even, on some models, for the leadscrew reversing gearbox casing; unlike the Atlas it had only one bolt holding down the tailstock end of the bed, rather on the lines of the Raglan Little John, with which it shares the clasp nuts and a few other minor apron parts - Raglan obviously saving themselves the cost of expensive new dies by adopting the readily-available and inexpensive American components. The Sphere, like the Halifax was still very recognizably an Atlas design, but with several interesting changes to the specification and materials used in the construction: the cross slide was wider and on some of the changewheel-equipped models the casing of the leadscrew reversing gearbox was made in a hard black plastic, a material also used for the gearcase and headstock covers as well as the double-step pulley on the countershaft and the two matching 4-step pulleys on countershaft and headstock.
My Lathe
Brian
My lathe has 24.5" between centres Picture of the headstock This shows the non-stock screwcutting gearbox and the tumble reverse. The clutch is operated by the lever on the end of the top pulleyshaft. The clutch is made from a motorcycle brake!! The the brake is on the lathe turns, to stop it the brake is released. I can see other uses for using brakes as a clutch - like worn out disk rotors and old calipers:)) View from the tailstock Also visible is the vertical table which goes on the powered compound slide Looking along the bed Big bucket of spares and extras
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TWO2002
TWO2002
Tom's B12
Squids at Deals Gap
Deals Gap
View top of Mt Mitchell My VX800 for the Trip Highest point on the Parkway
Skert
Susan Galpin
http://vx800.net/two2002/TWO2002.html7/23/2005 12:24:45 PM
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Fred H - Mid Atlantic Ride 2002
Two VX's and an ST1100
Scott examining something or other, while Rick, Giselle and Bill look on.
We stopped for lunch where we saw a few bikes in the parking lot.By the time lunch was over, there were no cages, because more motorcyclists riding in the mountains of West Virginia helped to take over the restaurant. Left to right: Rick, Tom, Fred, Mark.
Getting ready to ride.
Mark obviously very proud. I was drawn to taking this photo because of Mark's ingenuity in eclectic packing. Nike bike! (They all are!)
Rick, Bill, Scott, Trish and Mark debating which ride they'll each join on this glorious fall Saturday.
Tom contemplating something serious
Look at these posers!!
Four Suzuki VX800s and an R1150R by a cabin in the woods
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Suzuki Owners Club Outing to Dover Castle 2002
Suzuki Owners Club Outing to Dover Castle 2002

Starting from Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch Railway Cafe - also 3 SUKBOGGER bikes here (B12's) At Dover Castle
http://vx800.net/Dover2002/suzuki_owners_club_outing_to_dov.htm7/23/2005 12:25:19 PM
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Brian goes to an old steam rally Detling 2002
Brian goes to an old steam rally

Detling 2002
An old Scott two stroke Westlake engine in a Norton Featherbed Frame This is a typical British Cafe Racer from the 60's/70's Another Steam Car Miniature Steam Lorry My son Toby on a vintage Ferris wheel Miniature model Traction Engine Real Traction Engine
Steam Car Model Traction Engine Ride'm Cowboy
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Main Heading Goes Here Subheading Goes Here
Mid Atlantic Ride 2002

Pictures from Scott Bogue
1- Packed and ready to go 4- I coulda had a VX 7-On top of Spruce Knob 10-Yet another from Seneca Rocks 2-Maw and Paw's Restaurant 5-Tom Balaban backs 3-at the cabin. 6-Yocum's Everything Place 9-The view from Seneca Rocks
8-Lunch stop in Davis
11-Made it to the top
http://vx800.net/MidAtlan02/MidAtlantic02.htm7/23/2005 12:25:34 PM
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Dyna Coils
Dyna Coils
A mod that I have done on my wife's VX with excellent results (I'll be doing my own next). I added Dyna coils, part # DC3-1. The result was an increase of between 300 to 400 RPM at idle due to better combustion, instant starting and improved fuel economy. No more fouled plugs. I have not increased the spark plug gap yet but, that is supposed to result in further improvement. Coils cost approx. $115.00 from Dyna (poss. cheaper from a mail order house). You will need to replace the stock plug wires (too short) but you can use standard 7mm suppression wire. The Dyna coils are larger both in diameter and length. They will mount in the stock position but the mounting bolt holes don't line up. I used one of the stock mounting bolts and secured the other end to the frame with wire ties. You also need to lengthen the primary coil wires and use the supplied connectors. This is not a difficult mod and as I said we are very pleased with the result. Lyle
http://vx800.net/workshop/electrics/dyna_coils.htm7/23/2005 12:25:48 PM
Drive Hub Wear
Drive Hub Wear
Contributed by Richard
I removed the rear wheel to-day with the intention of taking in to replace the tyre , once the wheel was off I noticed a lot of rusty powder in side , the driven gear (page 8-27 in the book ) has been rubbing on the drive shaft casing . I took the wheel in to the shop where I get my tyres from and showed him the wear and he pointed out what is a known fault at the bike shops , the small plates that hold the drive gear in place were worn out and was allowing the drive gear to come forward and rub . as luck would have it he had a VX in for the same repair only in worse condition that mine , it had worn the oil seal for the drive shaft so much that oil had started coming out ( didn't some one in smartgroups have oil coming out of the same place ) and his drive gear was totally worn out both gears at 70,000k`s , I have repaired mine by removing the gear and rotating it one hole and making new locking plates out of chromeolly (I think it is spelt like that ) All the bolts were fitted with threadlock and were a bugger to get out ( I broke one ) to close to the side for a socket and a bad angle for the spanner , all the bolts looked as though the head was bent to one side so I fitted Allen bolts 6mm 20mm long and lock wired them , I have taken a few pics for you both to look at
http://vx800.net/workshop/drivehub/drive_hub_wear.htm (1 of 4)7/23/2005 12:25:51 PM
Drive Hub Wear
Drive Hub Wear
With new locking plates
Drive Hub Wear
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New Page 2
Andreville July 2002
Richards Story here
Steve Bell's pictures here
Rene and Ursula's pictures here
Ko's page - including 3 movies or the rally! here
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Mike Percilick's "Candy"

15,000 Miles Pichler Fairing, Progressive Springs, Jardine Exhausts, Candy Apple Paint, Corbin Seat Shimmed Needles. The rest is still Stock .............................for now. The best thing that happened to her was laying her down at a slow speed. The insurance covered the damage and that's what paid for the improvements.
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Spud Run
Spud Run - 2002 - Part 1

As I sit down to try to capture the events of the last week and a half, I'm almost overwhelmed by the camaraderie and friendships that have begun and been rekindled. VXers are a unique and wonderful group of people and our first Spud Run has been so special that words will hardly describe the great times we've had. For me, the adventures started a week before the Spud Run began. Rick B., Duncan and Mike R. made arrangements to meet me on Saturday the 18th in Philomath (say fill-O-muth) OR for the Antique Motorcycle Swap Meet and Show and ride back to Idaho starting Monday. I left the Rockin' Rottie on Friday morning on the SV650 (first long distance trip on the bike), with an overnighter planned in Bend OR. As I looked at the cloud of dust in my rear view mirror heading up the driveway, I wondered what the next week and next 1000+/- miles would have in store for us. The ride was uneventful thankfully, transitioning from a colorful spring high desert of southern Idaho and eastern Oregon, to sparse evergreens, then cool, pine shrouded foggy mountain passes of western Oregon. I met Rick at the Galaxy Motel in Philomath, just out of Corvallis on Saturday morning...it had been about nine months since I'd seen our resident List Curmudgeon, and it was really a treat and catch up over a hot cup of coffee or three. Rick and I walked the 4 mile one-way trip to the fairgrounds to watch the set up for the event that was scheduled for Sunday. Old bikes of every denomination started slowly filing in the fair grounds after the riders enjoyed a rally ride around the area. The Ariel Square 4 parked in the shade first caught our eyes, a closer inspection proved that the restoration was apparently flawless....a truly beautiful testament to motorcycle technology of the mid twentieth century. Boxes of old bike parts here, old rusting Honda chassis and motor parts there...it was just as a bike swap meet and show should be. We'd left a note for Duncan who was to meet us at the fairgrounds, but there was no sign of him as we walked the four miles back to the Galaxy Motel. When we arrived an hour later, we read Duncan's note indicating that he had indeed tried to find us, but apparently was one step behind us at the fairgrounds. He was getting comfortable riding Elaine (that's Mike's 90 VX, folks!) and would catch up with us later. That evening while Rick and I were outside enjoying a smoke, Duncan pulled into our parking area, with the Vampire exhaust putt, putt, putting....big smiles and back pats ensued...it had been well over a year since I'd first met Duncan, even before his monumental east to west coast initiation ride on his black VX. As always, Duncan was full of jokes and just plain-old fun to be around. So we were wondering what was Mike up to...well, he was trying to wrap up loose ends with real work and some final maintenance with his new-to-him purple VX...and we'd see him on Sunday. That evening Rick, Duncan and I rode to the top of Mary's Peak, a 50 mile round trip from Philomath. Today the peak was in the clouds, and we were unable to see Mt. St Helens, Hood,
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Spud Run
Ranier and countless other dormant volcanoes normally visible. We didn't stick around very long...the skies were threatening to pour upon us, and the temps were a bit cooler than comfortable. By the time we reached Philomath, the clouds DID open up and we and the streets were slick with fresh mid-May Oregon rain. It was good to get back to the hotel and shake off the riding gear. That evening the three of us walked to Philomath's finest Mexican restaurant and enjoyed our first good meal and Duncan waitress-flirtation; many more would ensue. Duncan was staying at Mike's house in Eugene and headed back south to meet up with Mike. Rick and I had warned each other about our reported (by our spouses of course) snoring habits, so as we said goodnight we found another use for those motorcycle ear plugs...ahhh, the things we do for a good night's sleep. The next morning we grabbed a quick muffin and decided to head to the REAL show, the antique bikes on display. Not up for another 8 mile walk and with skies again threatening, we jumped aboard the SV for a ride to the fairgrounds. Rick was an excellent pillion, holding on descretely while we ripped the SV up the highway to the fairgrounds. The indoor show was fantastic, with the center stage being a host of beautifully restored Triumphs. Again, we were treated to breathtaking restored and original bikes from all eras and countries (ever see a mint wankle-powered '76 Hercules?)...Duncan and Mike were to meet us there, but after three hours or so with no sign of them, we rode off for lunch and back to the Galaxy to wait for them. Again, Duncan showed up, and again he was alone. Mike just needed to do a couple more things to the bike (spline lube, carb balance, valve adjustment!) and we would see him later that evening. The skies were yet again threatening and before long, a slow steady drizzle wetted everything that was not under cover. By this time we were wondering if our ride east to Idaho would be completely in the rain. We'd seen the sun only once or twice the whole time, and the clouds were always dark grey and ready to unleash. Sure glad I brought that new rain suit. It was now after dark on Sunday night...we were planning to head east via some great routes that Mike and Rick had planned out. Still no sign of Mike. Please...no bike problems Mike! A little while later, we hear the familiar rumble of a stock VX exhaust. Mike made it! It was pouring down rain now, and I was REALLY glad that I'd brought the rain suit. It was great to see Mike again, the last time being when he visited the Triple R (Rockin' Rottie Ranch) in October on Elaine. Funny, the last time I saw Mike he was riding in the rain too. A trend maybe?
Spud Run
==> Next
We all got a good night
Spud Run 2002 - Part 2

We all got a good night's sleep after pouring over the maps. The final route was planned out and the four of us were really ready to get on the road. It seems like I'd just closed my eyes when the alarm went off.....yes, I could hear it through the ear plugs! Lucky for us the rain was NOT pouring down, and we were ready to get geared up and on the road. Uh oh....Duncan reports that Elaine's back tire has a whopping 8 pounds of pressure. Gear off, and time to inspect the tire. We lifted Elaine on to her centerstand and rotated the tire....what's this innocent piece of gravel doing here? The innocent piece of gravel was actually a very sharp and sinister piece of gravel and had punctured clear through. Before my trip out, I had purchased a tire repair kit from my local Suzuki dealer. This kit used a neoprene phillips screw as a plug, and why not try it out? I handed the kit to Mike and Duncan who both mumbled something under their breath about finally screwing Elaine. I didn't catch all of it. After the screw job we tested the patch, and it was no joy. Little bubbles under the spit. So off to the convenience store to attempt to find a local bike dealer open on a Monday. Yea right. What bike shop is open on a Monday? In Corvallis, OR? The minutes ticked, and believe it or not, Duncan was able to find a local Honda dealer open and ready to help us - but he had no tires in stock that would fit the old girl, so he'd have to plug the tire. The NEW rear tire with less than 1500 miles on it. Doesn't it always go that way? Two+ hours later we rode away...but not before we ordered a new rear tire from Chaparral to meet us at the Rockin' Rottie for replacement on Friday. Skies were again dark and foreboding, but we were finally on our way, with a warning from the dealer NOT to exceed 55mph for the first day and 75mph for the rest of the tire's natural life. Oh boy, mother nature sure has a way of keeping you honest, doesn't she? Undaunted by this minor setback, eastward the four of us headed, at a blistering 55 miles per hour....with increasingly dark skies in our view. After a short stop, were now ready to head east on Highway 20, just out of Sweet Home, OR ready to climb the grade to Cascadia. The blackest, most foreboding skies of the trip were directly ahead of us. Time to don the rain suits and suck it up. Sure glad I brought one for the trip. Our most experienced rider Rick took the lead, as we ascended into the mouth of the dragon. First a little rain, then...what's this? A bit of hail? The bit of hail turned into a LOT of hail and heavy rain, followed by a flash of lightning and an immediate BOOM! Close. Another! And another! The hail was actually starting to hurt through the rain and riding suits and I was glad that I had earplugs; the hail was actually
echoing in the helmet! Visibility is now down to about 20 feet, and even less with the fogging of our glasses and face shields! Frantic attempts to wipe the shield proved useless as the fog, hail and rain almost completely obliterated the view. I could barely make out Rick's tail light and tried to follow in the trail his red VX was now leaving in the accumulating hail. The two single headlights in my rear view mirror proved that Duncan and Mike were still hangin' in there. What's this I feel? Now how could my crotch be getting wet through this one piece rain suit? Oh, and it IS cold! The rain and hail are now penetrating through the velcro and zipper in the rainsuit AND the little vinyl mittens on my gloves.....and I am starting to get cold as we continue up the hill, wiping our visors, dropping our glasses on the bottoms of our noses and just trying to stay in motion. The gloves are completely drenched. My crotch is soaked. Damn. By the time we crested the summit, the precipitation had nearly stopped and we all pulled over to the rest area to review the last twenty minutes. It was confirmed that we ALL suffered from the wet crotch syndrome, some worse than others...right Rick? The soaked gloves were now useless in the 40 degree temps and I was glad that I'd packed my summer gloves. They were light, but at least they were dry. We were really lucky that the rain was light as we descended from the summit down to Sisters, OR with a final destination of the night being Prineville, OR. We stopped in Sisters for lunch and a drying out period. After taking off our riding suits, either all four of us wet our pants through the lightning and hail storm, or none of our rain gear held out. I prefer to hope for the latter. How nice it was to warm up for a little while while Duncan told jokes to the cute waitresses. That Duncan. Although we had only travelled 120 miles, I decided to fill up the SV to see what kind of mileage it got through the storm. Two point one gallons. Not bad. We continued to our destination for the night with heavy cloud cover and always threatening skies. By the time we made it to Prineville, the rain was starting up again, but was fairly light and we were eager to gas up and dry out our clothes and gear for the next morning's ride..... We were up early Tuesday morning....(well three of us, anyway) and Mike, Rick and I discussed our plans for the day. Clouds still covered the sky, but they did not appear to carry much precip....a little while later, Duncan emerged and we geared up for the next ride. We didn't have a firm final destination for the day, but knew we'd be well into eastern OR by sunset. Mike had planned out some great routes and we were ready to rock. We headed east on SR26 and had breakfast in Mitchell, OR. From there on is a blur, because Mike led us through some of the most beautiful scenic country and winding roads any of us had ever witnessed. The roads were nearly devoid of traffic, dry, fast (well, except for poor Duncan) and the scenery was so spectacular it was hard to keep eyes on the road. We did and ended up in La Grande, OR for the evening. The
hotel had a hot tub and it was wonderful to get that core temp back up to normal. Mike, Duncan and I saw the new Star Wars Clone War movie, and after the movie Rick joined us for dinner at Denny's. Civilization. Ahhh... On Wednesday morning I decided that I was going to slab it home in I84 and get home before Kathy left on her own Miata rally in British Columbia. The guys decided to head north through Enterprise, Wallowa Lake, through Hell's Canyon, Idaho and spend the night in Cambridge, ID. Sure was nice to get home to Kathy and prepare the Rockin' Rottie for Spud Run I. <== Back ==> Next
In the few days since I

In the few days since I'd left, there were a few changes at the ol' homestead. The native grasses, wildflowers and weeds had all gotten a little taller, and by following the loud buzzing sound, I found that a large swarm of honey bees had found ITSELF a brand new home...under the cedar siding on the north side of OUR house! Well they seem friendly enough so they can attend the Spud Run from a most unique vantage point. Besides, there's no time to call a beekeeper, the guys were due in on Thursday afternoon. Had a great night's sleep, home in my own bed with my own pillow (funny how great your OWN pillow feels) with my own wife, and bid Kathy a safe farewell for her Miata trip. She was on her way to Seattle to pick up her daughter for their own rally and adventure in Kalowma, British Columbia. Over 130 cars at that rally. Sure glad I only have to plan the logistics for 5 people! Kathy mentioned that Kim Cardin had called, cancelling because of the freak snow in the Sierra's. Hope you can make it next time, Kim. Checking the email, I get a note from Andy mentioning that work and life stuff got in the way, and he won't be able to make it. Ditto, Andy. The remaining Runner, Eric, had not checked in, and at last communication was going to super-slab it from Seattle to the Ranch in one day....570 miles on Friday. That after just returning from a vacation in Italy. Whew. You da man, Eric. After putzing around the house for a few hours, the phone rings and its Mike at the Mail House, about 2.5 miles down the dirt road, adjacent to Hwy 21. I'd asked Mike to give me a call because, although Mike had been here last October, the roads to the Triple R are tricky and I didn't want them to get lost. Mike's voice sounds a little shaky as he explains that he had tried to find to the house with Duncan and Rick in tow, but had gotten lost. "Better get here in a hurry, Bruce, the guys aren't too happy with me..." I jumped on the Yamaha 400 quad and got down to the bottom as fast as I could. There the three of them are, with Duncan looking especially beat. The Curmudgeonly One, always the one to count the miles, announces "Nine point one miles, he let us follow him through these lousy roads for NINE POINT ONE MILES!!!! LOL! Thankfully, there were no drops, only a couple of close calls, and they followed me for an additional 2.5 miles of crappy roads to the Rockin' Rottie. No worries Mike, its a mistake often made. Rick said that he planned that he'd go down those 2.5 miles on his red VX only one more time. OK, Rick is the designated caretaker of the ranch for the next few days. LET THE FUN BEGIN! Man, did they look tired! We unloaded the bikes and gear and set up sleeping arrangements. Of course our three dogs are ready to greet our visitors and our newest, nine month old Ozzie (named after the Oz man himself) was going at hyper-speed, sticking his nose in places it didn't belong (he got to know the guys in a hurry!). Marta and Murphy, our Rott and Rott/Lab mix were their well-mannered and gentle selves,
In the few days since I
waiting for a re-introduction to Mike and Rick and an introduction to Duncan. We got situated, bikes cleaned off, sleeping arrangements decided, and the guys described their ride from La Grande to their rest point for the night, Cambridge, ID. They took a wrong turn or two and had an 31 mile off road adventure of their own. We'll leave that description for one of them.....but there was no rain and Hell's canyon on the Idaho/ Oregon border was its usual spectacular self. We decided to jump in the 4Runner and catch a late dinner in Idaho City. Got home late Thursday night and still no word from Eric. Hmmm... Friday morning we decided to take a short tour of Boise, and hit the Idaho Historical Museum. Lots of cool old stuff and stories about how white man had massacred and ripped off the natives of their land, discriminated against the Chinese labourers of the late 19th century and interned the Japanese Americans during the big one. OK, there were some cool things too, like early logging equipment, a recreated barroom from the 1800's and such. Hard to forget what happened to those poor folks, though. OK, back home and still no word from Eric. Its getting late in the day, and we _need_ to take a little hike. Rick, Mike and I walked down the property to the cliffs above Highway 21, while Duncan took a nap. _Just_ as the three of us peer over the edge of the cliffs to see the highway below, a familiar v-twin sound rumbles from the road, and the rider has luggage! Could it be? I run up the hill and into the house only to hear the last ring of the phone before the answering service catches it. Has to be. So I jumped back on the quad and back down to the mail room. There, standing next to the black 90 VX is another friend that I'd never met before. "Eric, good to finally meet you!" He'd left in the morning and gone straight through, Seattle to Boise, only stopping for gas and...ahem.... discharging....570 miles. Impressive, Eric, impressive. Even after riding almost 600 miles, Eric was lucid and we had some fine descriptions of our various recent adventures. We sat on the deck taking in the views and talked about the rides we had planned for the next couple of days. Saturday, we take a flat land ride to the Birds of Prey area in the Snake River canyon, about 35 miles south, in the heart of the southern Idaho desert. Sunday is the BIG ONE...heading north on Highway 21 to Stanley, in the heart of the amazing Sawtooth Range in central Idaho. But first we must watch....Speed Channel! Superbike races....motocross....yeah. Love that satellite TV. We had a late dinner of BBQ chicken and potato salad and were ready for our first ride. <== Back ==> Next
Saturday morning

Saturday morning. Bagels and peanut butter for breakfast. Yum. Rick, the designated caretaker, cook and bottlewasher has plans while we're in Snake country. He'd asked if there was anything he could do, so he was assigned the task of applying weed killler to about 1/4 acre of weeds surrounding the immediate vicinity of the house. And BBQ a roast, half a salmon and entertain Ozzie and the Girls. Whatta guy that Mr. B. Mike, Duncan, Eric and I ride 21 south to I84 and made it down to the Birds of Prey area in no time. Unlike our previous shivering rides, Idaho is warm and sunny. Hot even. We traverse a gravel road of probably two miles or so, sucked up more dust than we'd planned to and finally get to the viewing area. We walk about an eighth mile down to the canyon overlook and take off our gear. The canyon is clear and the rock strata layers of the canyon are amazing to behold. The Snake River is aptly named as it takes many bends and twists below us. We see a couple falcons flitting about, but no sign of the big ones - the bald and golden eagles. Enjoying the warm sun for a change, we take a few pictures and cajole another tourist into taking a group shot. Thank you anonymous person, whoever you are. We head back home, and Mike splits off to meet up with an old Idaho buddy. The three of us are back to the Ranch in no time, meeting up with our friend, the CO. Not only has Rick applied Round up to the weeds, he's even pulled a few around the concrete driveway. And dinner will be ready in no time. Whatta guy. Before and after dinner I lead the guys up individually to the top of our mountain, about 1500 feet above our 3400' level. The quads are well suited for the trip to the top, with me on the Yammy 400 and the guys each taking a turn on the Honda 250. And I get to take the trip three times. Fun, fun, fun. The last trip, after dinner, Duncan and I do the 6 mile loop making it home by the light of a full Idaho moon. Shweet. Unshweet was the fight that Marta and Murph got into while we were gone. Rick, Eric and Mike attempted to pull the two 120 lb dogs apart, and Murph took the biggest hits, with gashes across her nose. Bitchfight in the truest sense. Ok, a couple of scars and nobody else got hurt. Could have been a lot worse. OK, so what about tomorrow's run? I originally planned on doing a U-turn on 21 at Stanley, which works out to about 220 miles. But Eric and Duncan want to do the loop: Take 21 to Stanley, 75 through Sun Valley all the way to 20, across the high desert on highway 20 to I84, and back home. Works out to around 350 miles. Aggressive guys, these. And Eric just got off a 570 mile ride. Who am I to argue? And as a good host, I must accompany them. Sunday morning - all but Rick gear up for the trip. Mike decides to follow us us to Idaho City for an outdoor breakfast and follows us up to Lowman,
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Saturday morning
Idaho through some of the most aggressive, tight and well maintained roads you will ever find. I set up a quick pace and Eric and Mike drop behind...but there's Duncan, right there with me - straddling Elaine, big 'ol legs hangin' out and grinning right through the smoked face shield on his silver helmet. The switchbacks feel like 270 degrees... perfectly cambered and surfaced. Yea, baby YEA! Our bikes are set up almost the same, with WP shocks on the rear, Progressive springs and Superbraces on the front. He's got 10 weight oil, I have 15. They turn good :-) When we got to Lowman, after some high fives and a quick pic-shoot Mike turned around to enjoy those twisties from the other direction (even better). Lucky guy....we still have 250 miles to go.... through the middle of central Idaho's snow-covered Sawtooth range on Highway 75......Galena Summit at over 8000 feet and back down the mountains to the wild-flower covered high desert of southern Idaho. Lucky us, lets GO! Eric, Duncan and I head north, through the burned remains of the incredible 1989 Lowman Fire (started by over 350 direct lightning strikes over the space of two weeks) past the fire zone and up in elevation. After 45 minutes or so of long sweepers and vast stretches of perfect road paralleling the beginning of the Sawtooth Range, we stop for a few photos and warm up. The temperature has decreased markedly, and little spots of rain occasionally hit the visors. A quick snack of mixed nuts (appropriate) and fruit juice (not appropriate! :-) we motor into Stanley and fill the VXes up for the ride south on Hwy 75 that will commense immediately. OK, here we go. We take a right on 75 - straight roads, mild sweepers and snow-covered craggy mountains to the left and right of us. Occasionally the highway passes through vast lakes of multi-colored wild flowers and cattails, but those Sawteeth are all around us, all the while. Small streams and rivers to either side of us and we go past the turnoff to Redfish Lake - spectacular, but no time for stopping, we gotta make some time here.....The CO will have dinner ready and we can't be late! We finally pass across the headwaters of the mighty Salmon River....just a large stream right now, but downstream a ways is one of Idaho's finest raging wilderness rivers. Up we climb towards Galena Summit....but time for a few more photos about 500 feet above the Salmon River Valley. Those VXes sure look nice with those snow-covered mountains behind them! .. <== Back ==> Next
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Duncan takes off first this time

Duncan takes off first this time, followed by Eric and we make good time up toward the summit. Its getting chilly again. As we climb over the summit, Duncan is up, over and GONE. Elaine is taking him for a magic carpet ride that he won't soon forget! I lose sight of Duncan and Eric, preferring to take this one in a little slower, appreciating the scenery I had not seen in over 5 years. Beautiful. The road flattens out eventually and I catch sight of Duncan and Eric. A quick twist of the throttle and the VX and I catch up faster than I wrote this sentence. We are heading towards Ketchum, one of central Idaho's more yuppified towns, with nearby Hailey and Sun Valley vying closely in the contest. As we near town, the absolutely immense log structures that some people call home litter the highway on the left and the right. These people have way too much money. We decide to catch a bite to eat in Ketchum and as we pull into town we see many, many touristas walking along the sidewalks clad in shorts and a few halter tops. Down Duncan. Easy big fella. We spot a nice enough looking restaraunt with roof top dining and decide to give that one a try. Wading through the tourists, some look at us like we've just stepped off a UFO walking along, dressed in our riding gear. Get used to it folks. We sidle into said restaraunt and the snooty waitress says that we have about 15 minutes to wait....no problem we can get a coke at the bar. Eric and I sit down on a couple of barstools and get the "why are you wearing a bug covered black riding suit in this place" look from an old yuppy broad sitting behind me at a table. Sorry mom, its just the way it is. About half an hour passes and Duncan checks with the cooks to find out how long it will REALLY take. Another 45 minutes? Sorry, can't upset the CO by being late for dinner. Lets move. So back down 75 and we head through Hailey, Belleview and to the intersection of 75 and Highway 20. Highway 20 is straight, unbelievable boring and the wind's a startin' to blow. A headwind. Right in our faces. Carry on. So west we head on 20....remembering Duncan's back tire, we mosey along at a GPS indicated 70mph. An SUV passes the three of us at maybe 85 miles a hour and I can barely stand it. Well that's OK, nothing like having a three ton SUV serving as bear bait on a long stretch of road in Idaho. He gets way ahead of us and I decide to catch up with him. What the hell. I roll on the throttle of the mighty VX and pass through the century mark in no time. With a head wind. Within about 20 seconds I've caught up with the SUV....smiling at how he's saved me from a radar ticket. Thanks guy. I back off a bit and Duncan and Eric are with me in no time. We finally get to Fairfield and my bladder's just about to bust. Yeowwwie. Duncan and Eric head into the little diner for a quick bite, and I hobble straight for the men's room in the gas station. Reach for the handle and the door's locked. ERRR.....a second later, a lady walks out of the
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ladies room...I look left and right...and I'm in and the door's locked. Ahhhhh.....a neglected bladder is not gender specific, folks. There are few pleasures in life such as this. With great relief I grab a Snickers off the shelf and pay the nice lady. I walk back to the diner and Eric's waiting by the bikes..he'd grabbed a quick snack and Duncan was ordering and devouring a chicken sandwich. A couple of folks walk up to their own bikes - he on a Road Queen and she on a big and low Yamacruiser. We get to talking and they are from Belleview, on their way back home from an overnighter in Boise. Nice folks - this is her first long trip on the big black Yammy. She takes off first in full toot, misses a shift at high RPM (thank God for rev limiters) and the two blast off to the east. She's embarassed for a second or two. OK, gotta move..C'mon Duncan, quit flirting with the cuties and lets MOVE! We head west through the Idaho Camas high desert, resplendent with vast fields of wild flowers and still standing water from the recent snow runoff and begin our descent to the town of Mountain Home and the real sage-brush covered, jack rabbit jumpin', coyote chasin' desert of southern Idaho. Boring. But some call it home. Mountain Home happens about half an hour later and we stop at a gas station for more relief and another candy bar. People are gassing up their motorhomes, ATV's, boats, toys. Eric wonders how people afford so many toys here in the Idaho desert. Eric and I talk over Air Force days - I was first introduced to Idaho when stationed at Mountain Home Air force base, 29 years earlier. Fixin Avionics gear on the old swing wing F111. Fell in love with the desert way back then. Eric describes his stint with the Air Force - he enlisted the year before I. Both of us were in the AF during Nam. Different reasons, tho. I had a low draft number and would rather not personally kill people I didn't know, so I enlisted. Eric enlisted because he was patriotic...good man that Eric. OK, gotta move. Where's Duncan? Duncan? Well Duncan's got his riding suit off and is talking to about the fourth person on his cell phone. Ahh, to be within cell service again. Cool. Duncan we gotta move. Get dressed. Mr. B and Mike have finished their spline lube tech session by now and they are waiting for us. With huge rainstorms slowly crossing the desert to south of us, we are headed west on I84. Speed limit 75, I crank up the old maroon girl up to a GPS indicated 75 and Duncan and Eric drop back. They don't seem to want to catch up, so I drop down to 65 or so and let them catch up. Seems like 70 is about right and we tackle the headwinds back to Boise with those huge storms to the left of us. South. Looks like we'll stay dry this time. Thirty five miles later we are back at the beginning of highway 21 ready to head north. The odo is registering about 325 miles by this time and we are ready to get back to the ranch. Twenty-five miles later we are at our familiar Rush Creek road exit, and ten dusty and bumpy minutes later we are home. Where's dinner, oh Curmudgeonly One? Rick
and Mike report that they'd had an excellent tech session and the new purple baby is lubed and ready to head back to Eugene. The "Scummies" are on the grill in no time and we're ready to eat. Scummies you ask? Yes, Scummies are an ancient Blunden recipe consisting of a patty of lean hamburger meat surrounding a slice of cheese and sliced onions....patted flat and grilled on a hot BBQ, if the cheese leaks out, its called a leaker. Ooh Rick, five out of six are leakers. Been awhile? Oh yea, we like scummies. Mr. B continues to delight us with his cooking prowess. And we have a new tradition for the Spud Run. Most excellent. Sunday night now, and the Run's just about over. We're staying up later than we should - watching speed channel m/c racing and marveling in Duncan's ability to immediately find THE satellite TV channel with the least clothed women. Uncanny. How do you do it man? Winding down now and unfortunately its time for bed. This morning the dogs woke me up at their usual time...about 6:00 AM. Toss them their kibble filled chow buckets and I make coffee before I nudge the Runners out of their last sleep this year at the Rockin' Rottie. I nudge them because with earplugs saving their ears from numerous sources of snores, they cannot hear the wake-up bugle. Love them earplugs, I may start using them regularly at night. Coffee's ready and its time to load up the VXes and Runners to head home. A few bagles later and the guys are loaded up and lined up for the final photo session. Eric pushes his starter button and instead of the ERRRR-VROOM, we hear a feeble click, click. OK, unleash everything on Eric's black beauty and we find a battery that is in dire need of some water. We fill the cells back up and jumper her off the porta 12 volt unit. ERRR-VROOM, score one for the porta unit. Eric, don't turn it off til you get home! Duncan, with his leashed-up tire heads out first. They decided to try to get a few more miles outta the plugged tire. And Duncan, with his usual (or unusual) humor has duct taped the word "FLYIN" across the back of his spare tire. I snap a picture as he heads up the road in a cloud of dust. Fare well my friend. Eric takes off second, the VX torquing its way up the road. Damn, I missed the picture. Mike heads up after Eric and with a flash, he's headed back to Eugene. Got that one. Rick hasn't suited up yet. We talk for a few minutes more and enjoy one last smoke together as he suits up for his hot ride back to California. In minutes, he's gone too and I get the picture of him heading up the driveway. Missed the wave though. Darn. Except for a slight breeze, the buzzing of several thousand bees and three panting dogs, Silence. Well, almost silence. Time to get the garbages emptied and recyclables sorted. I sigh a big sigh, look at the dogs and ask them...."well didja have a good time?" They reply with their doggie smiles and pant expectantly. I sure did.
Let's do this again next year. Helluva week, helluva Memorial Day weekend and some hella memories. Yea, VXers are some pretty darned cool people. <== Back
Bruce
Bruce's pictures from the 2002 Spud Run
Mike Remboldt (OR), Eric Mamroth (WA), Rick Blunden (CA), and Duncan Badine (CA), taken from the SW corner of our property. That's highway 21 in the background
http://vx800.net/Rallies/BruceSpud02/bruce.htm (1 of 2)7/23/2005 12:26:13 PM
Bruce
Mike, Duncan, Bruce (ID) and Eric with a backdrop of the Snake River canyon in southern Idaho
http://vx800.net/Rallies/BruceSpud02/bruce.htm (2 of 2)7/23/2005 12:26:13 PM
SEAN CAVANAUGH
SEAN CAVANAUGH'S VX800 For Sale

Details - Apply here
Three views attached - left side (showing soft baggage included), right side, and close up of the scraped up muffler from a bonehead low side spill.
http://vx800.net/ForSale/sean_cavanaugh.htm (1 of 4)7/23/2005 12:26:16 PM
SEAN CAVANAUGH
SEAN CAVANAUGH
SEAN CAVANAUGH
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Carburetor Balancing for the VX800 (and other things carb-related)
Carburetor Balancing for the VX800 (and other things carb-related) As promised a couple months ago, I decided to balance the carbs on the VX with mercury sticks. Here is the ordeal in all its gory detail; hopefully someone will gain some knowledge that is useful here. (I amended this file in March, 2000 to add some very useful and quite a bit more informative and accurate information pertaining to carb balancing. The information was provided by Steve G. aka Big Steve from the VX800 mailing list. Much thanks to you Steve for taking the time to send me the info and give your permission to use it in this document. Youll see Steves notes inserted in this document where they apply to the current process. Thanks again Steve!) This will actually walk through more than a balance. I pulled the front and rear air filters and replaced them, and cleaned the carb sliders first. All of this followed an oil and filter change as well. Here are the notes from my maintenance log: 29,700 miles (01 January 2000) Changed oil (Castrol 20w50) Oil filter (stock Suzuki) Air filters (front and rear with stock Suzuki) Replaced spark plugs with regular DPR8EA-9s (NGK) front and rear Cleaned front and rear carb sliders with carb spray, cleaned needles Tried to replace stock nylon needle spacer with 2-#4 washers on each per FAQ but the rear carb 1 of 2 screws in slider would not unscrew (though I rounded the Philips head on the brass screw while trying. Abandoned the idea for now. Adjusted idle mix pilot screws to optimal Balanced front and rear carbs with mercury sticks Rear was lower at idle, adjusted, but was then higher at 2000 rpm, I split the difference out to balanced at 1500-1800 rpm. Replaced lower engine mount bolt and nut (bolt had sheared and lost the nut) with stock Suzuki parts. Noticed a stress crack on right passenger footpeg mount bracket, ordered a new stock Suzuki part to replace it. After the carb balance, here are some notes I made in my logs later on. 30,000 miles Rear cylinder backfired after tank fill and then stopped firing (over a 4-day period) Rear plug was fouled, replaced with NGK DPR7EA-9 hotter plug in rear, still running DPR8EA-9 in front and both now seem fine. Noticed rear tire seems to lose pressure down to 20-25 psi over the course of a week or so, front tire has no similar pressure loss. Will look into replacing rear and maybe front for spring/summer 2000 30,060 miles (13 January 2000) Rear plug seems fine, no fouling, will leave it for now with hotter rear and regular front plugs also replaced footpeg bracket per previous entry. Ok with that covered to give you a synopsis of what I did, here is the procedure I followed up to and including the carb balance with pictures to help. (sorry for the picture quality on some, I need to be farther away with my camera since its fixed focal lengthfound out after the photos were developedI used PhotoShop to enhance some of them to be useful here and fixed the upside-down picture in the carb balancing section of the VX service manual...youll
http://vx800.net/workshop/carbbalancing/vx800carb_bal.htm (1 of 14)7/23/2005 12:26:29 PM
see in the picture)
Here we go: First I replaced filters and cleaned the carbs after the oil change and plug replacement. You have to remove the seat, sides (disconnect brakelight), and tank (remove the fuel line from the petcock and the petcock vacuum hoseI labeled them with a pen just for grins, ball-point works well on the rubber) to get at all the stuff including the rear and front airboxes. Heres the VX with the tank. Seat, and sides off:
Next I pulled the rear air box. As you look at it there are 4 screws to remove the filter like this: (its the square assembly that holds the actual filter, on the side of the airbox; I left the snorkel part of the filter assembly out of the drawing on purpose)
I noted the lower left screw was longer than the others. Then I pulled the rear filter assembly, and disconnected the airbox to clean it and get to the rear carb intake. The rear
carb connection is hard to get off after loosening the hose clamp, I pushed some of the rubber mount into the airbox to make room to get it off the carb, this made it easier, and just pushed it out again later when reassembling. The top air hose comes off easy after the hose clamp is loosened and theres a bolt on the bottom of the airbox that you remove from the right hand side of the bike. This filter was dirty! (I also cleaned the inside of the airbox with carb spray):
See the four screw holes for my drawing above? I set the rear airbox off to the side, leaving its lower air hose attached:
Left view and view from right side
Another View I replaced the rear filter and airbox, then pulled the front on per the service manual, it was much easier to do, beware there are little spacer collars on both sides of the bolt that holds the front airbox to the frame, dont lose them! And put them back when you reinstall the front filter assembly and bolt it to the frame. (sorry, no picture on that part) Next, after the new filters were installed, I pulled the carb sliders and proceeded to clean them and made my attempt at the #4 washer as a spacer for the needle per the FAQ. Be very careful on the carbs, there is a rubber diaphragm and a spring that comes out of the slider throat assembly when you remove the cover. See the service manual for the exploded view, or look at my scans on the next page:
Here are the front and rear carb exploded views: (rear on left and front on right)
The diagonal line on the rear carb diagram (coming up from the spring) points to the screw at the top of the slider assembly (there are actually two little screws on mine though the diagram only shows one here) that I could not get to turn. Its brass, and even with a lot of pressure I could only loosen one of the two, and the hard one got the Philips head stripped trying. Its also about 4 or 5 inches down inside that slider tube, so its hard to get at or Id think of tapping the screw and replacing it. I checked and the slider assembly is over $100(US) so dont torque it too hard and break the thing if you try this! Mine wasnt damaged except that I stripped the head and the carb works fine just beware this happened to me. (The picture was too blurry to include here)
Heres a nice blurry picture of the clean rear carb throat that the slider and needle go into though!
Be sure to seat the rubber diaphragms back properly in their seating groove per the service manual when you reassemble. It can get tricky with the rubber, spring, and cover to get them all to fit right the first time, especially if you are like me and have no garage and ended up having to do it by flashlight because it got dark outside (not this time, but I did last time I cleaned them). Carb Balancing (what youve been waiting for!) Prep and tools: Mercury sticks, I got mine at the Suzuki dealer, about $50(US), they are the Motion Pro ones Throttle lock (my bike had one when I bought it which I removed but comes in handy for this and long trips I would guess) Your trusty sockets! A T valve adapter for the vacuum port that comes off the rear carb to the petcock. I got them in the HELP! Auto parts section at Auto Zone (a T-adapter) and used the remaining clear plastic hose I had from replacing the overflow hose on my battery, its the same size as that one. The hose I think is also vinyl, same as comes with the mercury sticks. Small needle nose pliers or the appropriate small box end wrench to fit the cable loosening nut labeled as A in the service manual section on balancing carbs (see below) (wrench sizes from Steve G.) [5) The wrench sizes are 8mm and 10mm. The 10mm wrench could be modified to make access to the locknuts easier. The head needs to at least as thin as the locknut, and it helps to make the wrench shaft narrow behind the head to get more turning clearance to the frame. I did this with a cheap tool kit wrench and a bench grinder. Also note that the locknut only needs to be snug, which helps prevent your adjustment from changing while tightening.] (see wrench.jpg at bottom) I also did all this with the seat off but the tank on and hooked up to the fuel lines normally (hence the need for the Tadapter for vacuum to the rear carb mercury port and to keep the fuel petcock open with the engine running) I prepped also by loosening the vacuum hose to the rear carb that hooks to the petcock, it was on pretty tight from not being removed very often and being dry. I also removed the coolant overflow box (that little silvery plastic box on the right side below the tank, to get to the front carb vacuum port, your mercury sticks come with a 5mm adapter for the screw port to hook the front carb
vacuum line to) You can remove the overflow box without removing the tank by lifting the tank a bit to get to the bolt that hold it, I used a folded up rag and a long wrench to pry the tank up against the frame without damaging it to get enough room to remove the bolt with my other hand.
***Note from Steve G.!!!*** [2) I've always done the procedure with the fuel tank in place, because throttle cable position & routing will affect synchronization. (Test this the next time you are balancing your carbs. Raise the throttle to 2000 r.p.m. and then move a throttle cable for the rear carb sideways an inch. See how much the column of mercury moves?) I usually leave the rear mounting bolts loose, so I can raise and lower the tank if needed.] Test your throttle lock first to make sure it holds properly and that you can turn it down quickly if you accidentally rev it (DONT, you will suck mercury into the engine if you rev quickly or too far ~ 3500-3900 rpm) Do all this before hooking up the sticks and calibrating the two you will use of the 4 mercury ports. Also set your idle mix pilot screws now, and then get all your stuff together to give the engine time to cool down a bit. During the balancing process I shut it off and took breaks to cool it off (it gets hot adjusting the balance cable nut when that fan comes on and blows on your arm). Use a fan if you are lucky and have a garage. Another tip from Steve G.! [4) Use a box fan turned on high and placed in front of the front wheel (and to the side a bit), because balance is to be done on a warmed up engine. Warmed up means at least 10 minutes of running (from a cold engine.) The fan also minimizes "yellowing" of the pipes.] Ok now for some pics to explain all of this:
Left to right: mercury sticks, the T-adapter I made, and the throttle lock installed oddly on the right handlebar (odd because I clamped it onto the mirror stalk to secure it just for this use)
Heres the prep and hookup stuff:
left to right: the coolant overflow and my rag/wrench prybar, overflow off and pointing to the front carbs vacuum port screw you remove and replace with the adapter that comes with the mercury sticks for this.
Here are better pics from the service manual: (note I fixed the upside-down pic in the service manual on one of these scans)
left to right: from service manual, front carb vacuum port screw (#1) and screw replaced with the hose adapter (#2) (same thing Im pointing at in my picture, just not as blurry), and the carb balance cable nut (labeled a on cable A near the front carb) looking at it from a left side of bike viewpoint. Here are larger views: (from service manual)
Heres the balance adjust nut picture to go with the one from the manual (a of cable A)
Its the brass-looking thing way up in there and pic at right shows the hose hookup to the mercury stick And a second hose hanging on the right near the spark plug there to calibrate the second stick. Ok, though the pictures dont show it, I calibrated the mercury sticks per the instructions by doing it all off the front carb vacuum port adapter (BEFORE I hooked up the T-adapter rig to the rear carb vacuum port) Basically, you hook the line up to one of the 4 tubes on the stick from the front carb, idle the engine and mark the level, then shut off, hook the front carb to the second of 4 tubes (youll use this tube for the rear momentarily) and idle it again. If the little restrictors you had to jam down into the top of the tubes per the instructions have about the same holes in them, you should idle the front carb at the same mark level on both sticks, if not mark the second (I used electrical tapeand mine were perfectly even) and thats your even balance point even though they wont look level. Remember thats only if yours didnt calibrate exactly the same like mine did. ***Note(s) from Steve G.!!!*** [1) There's no need to calibrate mercury manometers. The size of the hole in the jet is of no consequence. The jet
exists to dampen pulses and make the column of mercury stable enough to give a consistent reading. The calibration part of the procedure is for the Suzuki vacuum gauge only. It consists of steel balls in glass tubes, and since there is no inherent "sealing" of the system, the calibration procedure is needed.] [3) Attach the #1 vacuum hose to the rear carb (it is the #1 carb; it has the idle speed screw!) When balancing the carbs, it is easiest to think in terms of adjusting the #2 (front) carb to the #1 carb (because, in fact, that's what you're doing)] (I'd heed Steve's advice here regarding hookups, I did it the non-logical way. Steve's makes more sense according to the service manual and how the carbs are numbered.) Time to hook the front carb back to stick #1 and use your T-adapter and hook stick #2 to the rear carb and start your balancing act! Here are more pics:
I hung the mercury sticks off the left bars. (note I tied the clutch lever down later not in this picture - to be able to idle with the centerstand and sidestand both down) I circled my calibration mark for front idle on stick #1 (electrical tape) in red. The mercury reservoir cap is in black at the bottom of the photo.
Here is the hookup for the T-adapter:
Left to right: the T-adapter, and close-up hooked to the rear carb vacuum port, black hose goes to the petcock.
Now we are ready to balance the carbs! (Ill put Steve G.s notes here first) [6) I suggest that Suzuki's recommended balancing speeds be used. When the engine speed is held at 2000 r.p.m., this is at the point where both throttle cables are definitely opening the throttle plates under tension, and at the point where the idle circuit transitions to the needle/jet circuit. Smooth running here is important for good low speed driveability, and smooth steady cruise. In general, an accurate carb synch has no real effect on performance above about 1/3 throttle. 7) In the normal course of balancing the carbs, I warm up the engine (this is to ensure that the idle speed remains stable.) Balance the front carb's idle to be the same as the rear by turning the cable that comes from the rear carb. Adjust idle speed. Lightly "blip" the throttle a couple of times to seat cables/throttle plates. Readjust as necessary. Adjust idle speed. Then raise engine speed to 2000 (by opening throttle by hand, don't use a throttle tensioner!), check synch. If it's OK, you're done. If it needs adjustment, release the throttle, adjust the cable on the front carb that goes to the front,"blip" the throttle a couple of times, raise the speed & check, repeat as needed. It usually shouldn't be necessary to re-adjust idle speed after adjusting the "2000 r.p.m." balance (unless you've just installed removed carbs, or replaced the cables, or had previously been confused by the procedure.) At a normal service the synch should take no more than 3 to 5 minutes after the engine is warmed up. 8) Turning the cables out (away from the carb) brings the height of the mercury down. 9) Other Notes: When checking the 2000 r.p.m. synch, bring up the engine speed slowly. You may have noticed that while doing this, the carbs may "go out of synch" but stabilize when you hold them open at 2000 r.p.m. This is where they should be balanced. Don't bother looking for a "happy medium" between 3500 r.p.m. and idle. The pilot screws should be adjusted after the carbs are balanced, and absolutely when the engine is hot. If idle balance changes, re-adjust. It is not recommended to change the idle speed without the synchronization gauges attached, because the idle synch will probably change. This is why it is important to do these carb adjustments at engine operating temperature, and leave them alone until the next service.] Heres Steve G.s wrench diagram if you want to make your own
The procedure is to set (or balance) at 1500 rpm, adjusting the cable as needed to balance the carbs out. This usually raises the idle on the bike so you need to also occasionally adjust the idle speed screw at the rear carb (the big screw you turn by hand) to get it back down a bit. Then set your rpms at 3000 and balance the carbs again by adjusting the balance cable A by turning the adjusting nut a. (Note there is a lock nut you need to loosen first to be able to adjust the nut, read your service manual, it covers it well!) This is where you will use your needle-nose pliers or the proper small box end wrench. Not much big fits in that space (since I did mine with the tank on) but if you do yours with an auxiliary fuel source and the tank off, access would be much better. It can get hot while adjusting this so be careful! You are very near the pipe at its connection into the cylinder and its very hot, dont burn yourself! You may want to check mixture settings as well, they may need adjusting afterward. Heres my notes: Starting out, rear carb was 3 of mercury lower than the front carb at idle Synched them at cable by adjusting the nut Idle increased to about 2300 rpm Adjusted idle down to 1250 rpm (dont forget here when adjusting, especially above idle speed to turn the throttle down - since its locked before you adjust the idle!) Once idle was adjusted, front and rear were again out of balance (rear was higher than front this time) Readjusted to balance, idle was too low now (850 rpm or so), adjusted idle back up Synched again at 3000 rpm but mine would even up at 3000 rpm with adjusting, and be out of synch when I brought the throttle back down again (Note: the mercury stick manual states that if you cant balance the carbs so they are close at idle AND at 3000 rpm, then you have other issues with carburation either vacuum, seal, or other things affecting what you are trying to do, I expected it since my bike has had rear carb issues and has 30,000 miles on it, yours most likely will balance out just fine!) Since mine was not going to balance out, I split the difference and got them to balance pretty well at around 2000 rpm and they stayed close back down to idle. I had to play around a LOT adjusting the balance nut, then the idle screw, and had to stop 4 or 5 times to let the bike cool off. DONT forget when you have it right to tighten the lock nut on the balancing nut and cable!!! You dont want to lose all your hard work! Please dont give up if it looks difficult, it reads harder than it is in this how-to document its really not hard at all to do! Trust me! Thats it! Afterwards I reconnected the petcock vacuum hose to the rear carb, and removed the front vacuum port hose adapter and replaced the screw where it was and remounted the coolant overflow box once again using my rag and wrench prybar method. I did notice a difference in performance, youll probably notice a greater one if your carbs were really out of balance. I think the difference shows in the performance you get at 4000 7000 rpms with acceleration, it seemed that way to me. You may notice other improvements.
I must say that now that Ive done this, I would readily do it again, its really easy to do and would really only eat up part of an afternoon (2-3 hours tops) to do. Ill end with a couple pics I took earlier of my VX, good luck to you and ride safe! Craig
(pics below)
Richard
Richard's slave petrol tank set up

Here are a few blurry pics of my slave tank and vacuum gauges set up on a old stand that was once used in a hospital having the slave tank saves you the trouble of leaving the main tank on the bike while you sync the carbies
http://vx800.net/workshop/carbbalancing/slavetank.htm7/23/2005 12:26:31 PM
http://vx800.net/OddsanSods/davidmartin/oz_tales1.html
Tales From the Road

Day 1 | Day 2 | Day3 | Next Page >>
Going Down, Looking For A Way Up This journey began with one of those ominous phone calls from the boss, A moment of your time on the eighth floor, if I may, David. Cant be good!! Out the door with a few months salary in my kick, in shock and wondering what comes next. Ive been down this road before when the previous company I worked for went belly up, leaving their employees without the final months wages, let alone any redundancy package or other entitlements. So to look on the bright side, at least this time there is no real urgency in finding another job as I have some money in the bank. On the other hand it is not a good time of year for job hunting, the market is generally somewhat depressed and I am in completely the wrong frame of mind to be marketing myself to potential employers. The decision was made that I had been paid out three weeks annual leave, so I would at least have a holiday before I thrust myself into the task at hand. My eldest daughter Samantha, wise beyond her years, suggested Why dont you go to Melbourne and see Uncle Phil? And so the seed was planted. It didnt take long to sprout and bloom into enthusiasm. The book says Sydney to Melbourne via the Hume Highway 890 km. Not that I intend to go anywhere near the Hume. Its one of those interstate conveyer belts for cars, where you get on at one end and emerge dazed and confused ten or twelve hours later, at the other end. Stopping only for fuel, food and pistops. Certainly, very fast but also very tedious. That wasnt the idea. More like one of those wonderful, meandering journeys of discovery in your own country. That is what was required. That spot on the map looks interesting, or I wonder where that road goes. Hmmm, this is going to be fun!! After a few quick registrations with the head hunters, discussions with some very helpful public servants, who guided me through the maze of hoops, through which I was required to jump to officially register as unemployed and a bit of retail therapy I was ready to turn my attention to the trusty VX and its preparation. A new front tyre was a must, so an Avon Azarro II to match the rear was the first step. And whilst I was at the front end I installed the Sigma BC 800 trip computer. Should come in handy. During a recent attempt at shimming the clutch to stop it slipping, I discovered the previous attempts of some Neanderthal had stretched the mild steel bolts in the clutch pack and elongated the holes in the spacers. Despite careful reassembly I managed to snap one of the bolts, Bugger! Thankfully John has the spare VX motor sitting on the bench, so a few minutes saw the entire clutch pack swapped. This was only a stopgap measure to keep me on the road until new parts could be obtained. New clutch friction plates, springs, bolts and spacers were soon installed and I shimmed the springs with small washers, to give it that extra bite! New spark plugs, fresh oil in engine and diff, check the cooling system and flush the hydraulic systems with fresh fluids. Clean the air filters, install the rack for the gear sack, synchronise the carburettors. Have I forgotten anything?? I think Im ready, today is Saturday and I plan to leave Monday. A quick two hundred km shake down ride Sunday, to be sure. Packed and ready to go. I cant sleep, the excitement is getting to me!
http://vx800.net/OddsanSods/davidmartin/oz_tales1.html (1 of 8)7/23/2005 12:26:35 PM
Day 1. Monday Morning, 5:00 AM.
No, this is a Rosella, not a corked Sparrow!
Awoke at sparrows fart and promptly told the sparrow to stick a cork in it, and rolled over for another hours shut eye. The weather is overcast and warm, despite the early hour. Its going to be a hot one. No full leathers today. By the time I was dressed, the bike loaded and fuelled and I was on the road its 7:00AM. Just in time for the start of the morning traffic. I live in the north of the city and heading south to the outskirts is about 45 km and can take a couple of hours. Oh well, no hurry. Once I am south of the city the traffic is mostly heading in the opposite direction, so no real problem. 45 minutes to the Sydney Harbour Bridge, and plain sailing from there. I lived in Wollongong, south of Sydney about ten years ago, so I figured that a sentimental visit to the old house was in order. My final stop in Sydney was at Engadine, McDonalds for breakfast. The clouds are looking threatening so I don the wet weather gear as I am leaving. The skies open up as I leave the metropolitan area, and I wonder if it is an omen. The sign says, Melbourne 1,027 KM. Well see about that! I avoid the Freeway and stick to the Old Princes Highway. Briefly consider the road through the Royal National Park, but I figure it is a bit too early to be detouring and that is close enough to home to do any time. The city of Wollongong is situated on a narrow coastal plain, backed by a spectacular escarpment of steep cliffs, which provide some wonderful views over the region. I stopped at the aptly named Sublime Point for a photo opportunity and encountered some lovely Eastern Rosellas a common species of native parrot. The rain is gone and the temperature is still rising. Still overcast though. Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image
398 Northcliffe Drive, Lake Heights was the scene of some major trauma and upheaval in my life. This is the home in which we lived when I came to the long overdue conclusion that my marriage was unworkable, that our hostility towards each other was doing great harm to our children and that it was up to me to do something about it. As I pull up outside that familiar abode, despite the new paint, huge Kentia Palms and now well-tended gardens, I cannot avoid a feeling of dread. This place holds some bad memories for me but as I look out over the placid, mirror like waters of Lake Illawarra, I remember how terrible life had been during that time and the subsequent two-year custody battle for our two daughters, and it helps puts my current unemployment into perspective. This is only a minor inconvenience and may even be a financial bonus if I can find work quickly enough. Only two hours from home and already a more positive outlook. Motorcycling is wonderful therapy. The Southern Highland town of Robertson is a pretty place and Moss Vale makes a good place for a break. This is where I encounter a strange synchronicity. I had been thinking that I should christen my
trusty steed (a la Mike and Elaine on the US list) but couldnt decide on a suitable name. Just prior to leaving, I came across a singer from Benin in West Africa, Angelique Kidjo. As a parting gift from my former work colleagues, I was given a voucher for a CD store that happened to stock her Best of album. The caf at which I had tea in Moss Vale was run by a lovely African women. Also from Benin and also named Angelique! I could spend hours listening to her wonderful speaking voice. Benin was a French colony and here accent is like warm, aural honey. We chatted for about forty five minutes and of course she knew of her famous namesake. She was absolutely delighted at my suggestion that I name my bike after both of them, so Angelique it is. The temperature has now reached 30 degrees C and still climbing. Looks like a nasty storm building in the west. I check the map and realise that the dreaded Hume is just up the road and start to look for alternatives. The tourist route through the quaint village of Exeter is a good road but the village itself seemed deserted. Just out of Exeter the road crosses the railway and from then on runs parallel to it. This gives an odd imbalance to small places like Bundanoon and Wingello because the entire village is on one side of the road, the railway line on the other, and virgin bush beyond that. Just out of Wingello, the road deviates from the railway and plunges into a forest of ghost gums, their smooth and twisted silver grey trunks seeming to glow in the eerie green light of the gathering tempest. The trees dark foliage appearing to blend into the clouds, until a fork of lightning in the distance redefined the boundary between earth and sky. I decide to use the Hume for a bit to put some distance between myself and the heart of that storm. Goulburn for lunch and fuel with 260 km on the trip meter. Premium unleaded fuel not available so I have to settle for regular. Temperature has now climbed to 35 degrees and the wind has picked up considerably from the west. Canberra, the nations capitol, is the planned overnight stop and the Federal Highway which leads there runs over a virtually treeless mountain plain along the edge of Lake George. I spend the next hour and a half leaning right at a ten degree angle into the wind. Gusts of wind grabbed my left leg and wrenched it out at a ninety degree angle, threatening groin strain! The buffeting to my helmet was causing neck pain. So, I folded down the pillion pegs, dropped my feet back, rested my chest on the tank bag put my head down behind the little screen and went for it. I estimated 120km/h cross winds and this was later confirmed by the nightly news bulletins. Sydney, and particularly my area had been hit hard by 170km/h winds leaving 100,000 homes without power and trees down everywhere. Id only caught the fringe of the storm and avoided the rain until I was in sight of the Canberra Visitors Centre where I sat out the rain over coffee, and the search for a suitable, budget hotel. Checked in, and unloaded the bike. Then I made a quick phone call to organise to meet up with Phil and Cheryl in Palmerston a northern suburb. These are two fellow members of the VX800 Appreciation Society that I contacted via the European Mailing list. I havent had the pleasure of meeting them yet but I know we share a common interest. Phil and Cheryl kindly offer to have some strange lone biker come to their home, and subject their two delightful children to the trauma of being cuddled by complete strangers. Jackson, an auburn haired beauty, stole my heart immediately, (I have always had a thing for red heads) and young Thomas was intrigued by this interloper. The VX actually belongs to Cheryl but has been used by Phil, whilst his modified/customised Guzzi Le Mans was off the road. Then there is the Triumph T100 and a couple of Suzuki Titan 500 club racers in the back shed. Cheryl had recently had an encounter with a cager trying to stuff her car up the right hand muffler. Needless to say, it didnt fit! Cheryl went, down wrenching her wrist in the process, and the header was bent and muffler scuffed. First time she had been on the bike for months. I hope the wrist is healing and the parts hunt is successful.
Thanks, for the cuppa and the hospitality guys, it is much appreciated. If ever I can return the favour, let me know. End of day one. According to the BC800, 372.51 km in 4:30:53 at an average speed of 82.28 km/h. Maximum of 158 km/h (Oops). Day 2. Canberra is a strange place, so Im going to have a look around and see if I can get a handle on it. It is an entirely planned city, following the decision to build the nations capitol rather than award the honour to either Melbourne or Sydney. So they built a new city in the middle of a sheep paddock, pretty much half way between the two , as the crow flies. As you come in from the north there does not appear to be any commercial activity other than a few scattered motels. No billboards or other advertising signage, and the naming signs on buildings could only be described as discreet. My impression was that Northbourne Avenue holds nothing but anonymous, government buildings trying to keep a low profile. Every couple of kilometres are signs pointing to shopping precincts in the suburbs. The road layout is full of Circuits and Crescents, so you spend a lot of time going around in circles. Kind of appropriate for a city of politicians, diplomats and public servants, come to think about it. Very nice on a bike as there arent too many straight roads, and getting lost is what this trip is about. Believe me, getting lost in Canberra is not at all difficult but kind of fun when youre not in a hurry. At least it has cooled down, maximum around 20 degrees C. First stop on the sightseeing tour is a cruise around the embassy district in the suburbs of Yarralumla and Deakin. There are some interesting architectural blends on some buildings, particularly from the Asian and Middle Eastern countries. Then I spent a few hours checking out Questacon, the science and technology Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image museum. All of the exhibits are very hands on, and would be a great educational outing for kids. Good fun! A quick lap around the new Parliament House, then over Lake Burley-Griffin, (there is a bridge, I didnt do the Evel Knievel bit) and up a great road to Black Mountain.
Perched on the summit is a large telecommunications tower, with viewing platforms and restaurants/cafes. So I paid my three bucks and rode the lift to 870 metres above sea level. Spectacular views over Canberra to the east and the mountains of the Great Divide to the Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image west and south-west. As I sat eating lunch, I watched as a heavy rainstorm came in from the mountains. Looks like Im going to get wet again. Oh, well should get a few more hours in with a dry bum. Took what I hope will be some good photos, and then headed back down the mountain. About two kilometres down, as I exited a lovely right-hander, I spotted an echidna on the other side of the rode. Ive never seen one in the wild before, so I eased past him chucked a quick U-turn and killed the bike. By the time I got the camera out he was across the road and scrambling up the embankment. I crept up the middle of the road, camera in hand, approaching the point where he had disappeared. I quietly approached the embankment, keeping low, and peered over a twisted banksia log. At the same time the echidna poked his head up, and we were eyeball to eyeball about half a metre apart. I dont know who got the biggest shock. I startled and slipped on the embankment, he turned and burrowed under a nearby clump of grass with his bum sticking out. I stood there with the camera trained on his backside, hoping he would stick his head up but he was more patient than I. After getting a few strange looks from passing motorists, I left him alone. Stay off the road, little fella. I headed back down to the city and with rain about to hit I stopped illegally in the middle of Anzac Parade for some shots of the VX, the Australian War Memorial in the background in one direction and Old and New Parliament Houses in the other. I had planned to revisit the War Memorial but it is nearly 4pm and I dont have time to do it justice. It will have to wait until next visit. Based on current average time between trips to Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Canberra, Ill be back when Im about seventy years old. The rain hit with a vengeance, and then disappeared just as suddenly. Checked out the Australian-American Memorial, the National Carillion and Blundells Cottage in pissing down rain. Then it was gone. Checked out the newly opened Australian National Museum, which looks like a giants playground from the outside. Strange building. Did the loop on the Majura Road past the airport and came back into town from the north. Back to the Motel and Clancys for dinner. Clancys surprised me. I thought it was a restaurant but turned out to be part of an Australiana theme park, on a very small scale. Clancys was the typical colonial tavern, and out the back were reproductions of other types of buildings, some of them quite grand. In typical Australian fashion, the tavern turned out to be the only economically viable part of the whole venture!
In the centre was a pond that used to house a Swan ride, where the punters would be dragged around by cables, sitting in overgrown fibreglass swans. (just like their colonial forebears in years gone by?) The swans were piled up on one side, looking rather forlorn, but a family of ducks were making good use of the pond. The parents diving under, bums in the air legs back pedalling for balance, whilst the little ones disappear completely, only to pop up again a few metres away. A pair of grey wading birds, were nesting in a tree on the opposite shore. I sat eating my meal, (sweet chilli chicken with mango salad, YUM!) absorbing the serenity and realised how relaxed I was after just two days away. More to the point, what came into focus was how tightly wound the coils had been. At that moment, the peace was shattered by that scourge of modern society, the mobile phone. An ill-mannered businessman had exited the tavern to make a call and was 5 meters away from my right ear, having a conversation at full volume. I turned, glared and snarled at him and he scurried away, tail between his legs, talking in lowered tones. Chalk one up for peace and quiet! Just as the silence returned I caught a movement in the corner of my eye. A magnificent peacock strutted into view, all wonderful shades of turquoise and royal blue. He shared a loaf of garlic bread with me, even eating from my hand, and at one stage hopped up on the bench across the table and eyeballed, me something horrible. His last piece of bread he shook violently and a large bit flew off. In swooped a couple of sparrows which sat on the fence. The peacock scurried off the bench, stood over the bread and displayed his attributes very proudly. The fan-tail was over 2 metres across and he held it up for several minutes whilst strutting back and forth. Great floorshow in this place! Ive decided that I quite like Canberra, but it would take a while to learn your way around. End of day two. According to the BC800, 122.55 km in 2:14 at an average speed of 63.3 km/h. Maximum: Not worth mentioning. Trip distance: 495.06 Day 3. Fuelled up in southern Canberra suburb, after taking twenty minutes to find a fuel station. Bloody Canberra!! Headed down the Cooma-Monaro highway and into the mountains. Not as good as it sounds, as I have already done most of the climbing but I still manage to max out at an elevation of 1100m. Yeah, I know thats not much by international standards, but you cannot do much better in Australia, without going up nearby Mt Kosciuszko. Stopped at Michelago to thaw out, and add more clothes as it has dropped below 10 degrees. Fast open roads are adding to the wind chill factor. The roadhouse was run by a bloke from Avalon, which is 15 km or so up the Peninsular from where I live. Turns out we have some common acquaintances.
Quick blast into Cooma, gateway to the snowfields, and stop for a pistop (two cups of coffee in Michelago ;-) ) A quick detour to Jindabyne to check out my mothers hometown. Well actually, her hometown is now under Lake Jindabyne, created during the construction of the Snowy Mountains Hydro-Electric Scheme during the 50s and 60s. In 1966, old Jindabyne was flooded, but in times of extreme drought parts of buildings or their foundations can be seen. Turn onto secondary roads, through Beloka to Dalgety. From there, its 26 km sealed and 28km dirt road back to rejoin the highway just south of Ando. The dirt was fun but obviously extra caution was required and I was quite happy when things went black again. Down through Bibbenluke to Bombala for lunch. There seems to be a very active motorcycle community in this region, judging by the Bombala Motorcycle Association premises very prominent position on the main street. Looks like rain, again. Outside of town we get into plantation timber country, with imported pine trees looking very out of place. Misty rain is falling in patches, but nothing much. The road tightens up as it skirts the boundary of Coopacambra National Park. Crossed the New South Wales Victorian border but not before a photo, of course! At the border the road becomes the Cann River Highway, and Im cursing the weather. This is a great road with lovely constant radius turns, well cambered with a smooth surface. Would have been much more fun in the dry, but still managed 100-110 km/h on the exit of most corners sign posted at 60 70 km/h. Not that quick going in though, discretion being the better part of valour. Arrive at Cann River at about 4:00 pm and look for a hot shower and a bed for the night. Dinner on day three was in the Bistro at the Cann River Hotel. I wont comment on the meal, (Mum always said, If you cant say something nice, say nothing), but this is a classic example of an Aussie country pub. Inside were saloon doors and a staircase, that had been salvaged from a shipwreck on the nearby rugged coast in the mid nineteenth century. This is timber country and there are some great historical photos of some pretty tough old coves hanging in the dining room. After dinner, not wishing to return to an empty motel room, I moved to the Public Bar and put my name up for a game of pool. There were maybe half a dozen locals and a couple of blow-ins, like myself.
A game of pool was in progress between a local and a young city fella. Things were not going well for the local. There is a tradition, where if you are beaten in a game of pool without sinking a ball, that is with all seven of your balls on the table, you must drop your trousers around your ankles and do a lap of the table. I should mention that in 30 years of playing pool, I have never been present when somebody has actually done this. It is more of a joke than anything, in polite society anyway. The local was soundly beaten by a very skilful opponent, and with much hoorah, dropped all three layers of clothing from below his waist, and commenced his lap of dishonour. As he rounded the corner of the table, facing the door to the street, in walked a mixed foursome of middle-aged Asian tourists. At almost this moment, with the tourists looking stunned, comes a laconic voice from behind the bar, Hey Neville, how come youve only got six balls on the table? Neville had sunk the first ball of the game and forgotten about it. The tourists went across the road and had dinner at the roadhouse, with the truckies. A much better class of clientele over there, apparently. Ah, you meet some characters. I then proceeded to beat the bloke who had flogged Neville and then couldn't get another opponent all night. End of day three. According to the BC800, 316.47 km in 3:14:43 at an average speed of 97.53 km/ h!!(Quick Day) Maximum: 147 km/h Trip distance: 811km and still 450km from Melbourne!
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Tales From the Road

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Going Down, Looking For A Way Up, (continued) Day 4. Before leaving Sydney, I had tried unsuccessfully to find Point Hicks on the map. This is the first point of land on the East Coast of Australia sighted by James Cook, in 1770. The story had sparked my imagination when I was a kid, as Hicks was the member of the crew who actually spotted land. I thought it was pretty cool, that somebody could be immortalised in such a way, just for having good eyes. And besides Cook did not really know what he would find, the "Great South Land" had been rumoured but never confirmed. They half expected to find a chain of islands, rather than a continent. Imagine how they felt turning north, and finding 2,500 miles of unbroken East Coast ahead. As I pulled into Cann River, I spotted the sign, "Point Hicks 45km". You beauty. My enthusiasm was only slightly diminished when I found out that it was 45km of dirt road, each way. At least the wet will keep the dust down. I checked with a couple of locals and was warned that the track is slippery when wet and is worse in the last section after the turn-off to Tamboon Inlet. Also to be wary of hoons in four-wheel drives who haven't seen another vehicle for 15 km, and think they own the bush. The road turns to a fine gravel a few km out of town. Surface is good and the VX very stable. Short blasts up to 100km/h, the posted limit, are possible, but not for long. Managed to back it in to one corner and power slide out but the surface wasn't up to such nonsense for long. Keeping a very close eye on the surface, I hit a 30m patch of darker coloured soil, still at reasonable pace. Only to discover that it was a fine red clay mud, imprinted with tread patterns of preceding vehicles. This caused a "tram line" effect with very little traction. A lesson learned, I'll keep an eye out for that stuff. The fully laden VX handled the going pretty well, the rear suspension coping better than the Beautiful Australian bush all around, so front over the laterally rutted apexes I stopped to take in the sounds and of corners, caused by water run off. smells as I cross the boundary into It was like riding over a washboard. Croajingalong National Park. Thumbnail of image The track continued to deteriorate Surrounded by massive eucalypts, I pose until the pot holes became the VX for a photo and have a breather. unavoidable. We just plowed on Half way there! through but I was happy when we reached the camping area and a nice but nondescript beach.
The temp had climbed, at least inside my leathers, and the sign said 2.5km to the lighthouse. Strip off a couple of layers and set off on foot. Interesting yellow wild flowers are interspersed with some sort of royal blue Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image berry.Very pretty but getting hotter as I trudge along. Passed a tunnel through dense scrub formed by overhanging foliage with a very well defined path inside. Obviously, it was a highway for the local fauna. A large hole in the embankment, 1.5 metres across, was probably a wombat den but they weren't answering their door when I knocked. Further up the track I spotted a black-faced Wallaby but he hopped away as I approached. I reached the lighthouse and headed out onto the headland where there are cairns erected to commemorate the sighting of land by Zachary Hicks in 1770. A very pretty cottage and other out buildings were built for the light keepers but with automation this cottage is now leased to holiday makers. I'll have to keep that in mind. Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Beautiful spot, but the weather can be savage on Bass Strait. As testament to this, another 500 metres around the coast is one of the many shipwrecks in the area. The "Saros" was a freighter that ran aground in 1937, directly under the lighthouse. The crew was rescued but the ship was unsalvageable. A huge storm a few years later broke up the wreck, sinking most of it, but moving the bow section further down the coast. It lies high and dry, rusting away, the rocks around it stained red, like dried blood. The three kilometre walk back to the bike and 45 clicks on the bike saw me back at Cann River for a well earned lunch break. Rain is threatening in the West. Guess which direction I'm heading? Managed to stay dry until Bellbird Creek, but then it was solid rain until Lakes Entrance. Fast, open twisties meant that 120 - 130 km/h cruising speeds were possible, even in the wet. Lovely views from high points around Lakes Entrance, with the lake separated from the sea by a narrow spit of land. A nice place but not looking its best under leaden skies. Another forty odd clicks to Bairnsdale, and I'm looking for a bed for the night. It was a big morning!! Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image
End of day four. According to the BC800, 265.12km in 3:42:20 at an average speed of 71.55 km/h Maximum: 147 km/h Trip distance: 1,076 km Day 5 Awoke to more rain and cool temperatures. Time for another detour. I checked out the map last night, and found a nice squiggly line heading north into the Victorian Alps, to a little village called Dargo. Within minutes of turning off the highway the road started to twist and climb into the steep heavily timbered mountains. Beautiful country with steep hillsides and deep, very green valleys. Mist shrouded the tallest peaks and stretches forested with plantation pine looked almost European. Just half an hour ago I was on the Australian Coast. Amazing transformation. The road was tight, twisty and slick, a "Misty Mountain Hop". Horse manure everywhere, and just to make it interesting, football
sized boulders dislodged in the rain, littered the road. After moving four or five to the side of the road, I gave up and continued cautiously. Some of the corners are sign posted with advisory signs but most are not. What's more, there appears to be no logic in the placement of signs. One very tight lefthander bore no warning, yet was followed by a 30km/h sign on the next, more open corner. The road curved Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image around the Wangaratta River at a set of rapids and I shut the bike down in order to absorb the atmosphere and have a rest. More spectacular country, and a cuppa in Dargo. A quaint place with hitching rails for horses outside the pub. It's cold, and I welcome the open fire in the General Store. This is bizarre, this is meant to be the second week of summer and I'm freezing. One of the locals must have been headed into town, as the remaining boulders had been cleared from the road on the way south. Turned off at The Fingerboards, (don't ask me!) and on to an arrow straight road. The boredom was only broken when a rabbit darted from the left side of the road and ran BETWEEN my wheels when I was doing about 120km/h. Now, that's one very lucky bunny. Must be all those rabbits feet. The road rejoined the highway 25 km from Stratford on the Avon River. Where else would it be, eh? Lunch at a local caf was followed by my 15 minutes of fame. A bunch of local school kids, six to ten years old, were off to the library, and surrounded the bike and I, much to the consternation of their teacher. She relaxed when this black leather clad biker smiled and offered her a wildflower that I had picked at Dargo earlier. The kids erupted, their teacher blushed and it was smiles all round from then on. Sorry, Cathy, if I caused any lasting embarrassment. The kids wanted to know where I was from, where I was going and all about my travels and the bike. A happy memory indeed. Cruised to Sale, an Air Force town and decided to stick to the coast road. Fast open and dull until Yarram where things got a little more interesting. I stopped for photos at a lookout just west of Foster. Not very high but very interesting, with views over Snake Island to the south-east and south over Corner Inlet to Wilsons Promontory, the southern most point of the Australian mainland. Start looking for a bed for the night and for the first time have trouble finding one. No room at the Inn, 'twould seem. I must be getting close to the city. Finally find a place to lay my head in Leongatha, and call it quits for the day. End of day five. According to the BC800, 383.82 km in 4:30:02 at an average speed of 85.3km/h Maximum: 154 km/h Trip distance : 1,460km
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Tales From the Road

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Going Down, Looking For A Way Up, (continued) Days 6 - 11. Melbourne Civilization is upon me. After a great hot shower, pizza for dinner in front of the cable TV and a good nights sleep, I was much more presentable for the brief journey to my brothers place. As it turns out I was only 131 km from his driveway but even that was too far last night. After a short sojourn through increasing urban development, I pulled in to Phill and Susannahs home in Mitcham, a north-eastern suburb of Australias second largest city. The welcome was warm, if a little bleary eyed. Sorry to get you out of bed, bro. 1,591 km after leaving home, nearly double the distance down the Hume conveyor belt!! Pretty good effort! We spent the weekend catching up, talking each others ears off, and I realised that it had been 25 years since the three of us had the opportunity to do this. Living in different places, we had seen each other over the years, of course, but always with other family members present to divide our time. The discussions ranged across all manner of topics, as they do, and it is amazing how similar our points of view are, on so many things. Nature or Nurture???? On the Sunday, Phill and I took a drive into the inner city suburb of Fitzroy, to visit my sister Cathy, or Sister Shekinah as she has been known for over a quarter of a century. She finished her BA at university, did her teacher traning, Diploma of Education, and then promptly devoted her life to the Missionaries of Charity, the order of nuns founded by Mother Therese of Calcutta. My sister and her Sisters have worked with the poorest of the poor in Calcutta and Manila, the Aborigines in Bourke in outback New South Wales and Katherine in the Northern Territory. The Sisters that I have met over the years, all radiate a sense of peace and contentment, despite, or perhaps partly because of, their complete lack of material possessions. They own nothing, but survive on "The Grace of God". It was great to catch up with my little, big sister, the Sister! She and her Sisters were busy preparing for the inaugural visit from the new Number One Sister, and her deputy. The Fitzroy house had heard over the MC grapevine that Number One was a pussycat, but watch out for Number Two! Ain't it always the way. After another day of talking the leg of an iron pot and drinking enough tea to ensure the success of the Sri Lankan economy for decades to come, I paid an evening visit to Virginia and Willem and their children Stephanie and Scott in Mooroolbark. I hadn't actually met Virginia, we had only spoken on the phone, but a warm and friendly welcome awaited me. We chatted over the bikes in the carport for a while before adjourning to their home for the obligatory cuppa and some very nice scones. I didn't have the opportunity to meet young Scott, he was hibernating in his room. Must be a teenager or something. Virginias bike still bore the scars of her recent tumble but the bits were coming together. We chatted for a couple of hours, and I bid a fond farewell to these kindred spirits. You meet the nicest people on a VX! Next day, I had an afternoon looking around Old Melbourne Town. It was meant to be the full day but Caught the train in and was impressed with the road and transport system in Melbourne. Wandered around the centre of town, and was struck by the difference in early buildings that had
survived the developers lusts. In Sydney, sandstone was the predominant building material used for public buildings. The architecture was functional Edwardian, whereas Melbourne, settled later by free settlers rather than as a penal colony, is more Victorian with many ornate frivolities. Bluestone, quarried locally as well as being brought in as ballast in ships, was used extensively. These two factors give a sombre, Melbournites might prefer dignified, atmosphere, after the honey warm glow of Old Sydney Town. I managed to arrive at the Queen Victoria Markets just as all the stalls were packing up for the day. Bought myself a silver and white enamel ring as a keepsake and then checked out Elizabeth Street. This is the motorcycle precinct, with lots of bike shops and associated businesses. Didn't see a VX800 in my wanderings though. One thing I will say for Melbourne, it's great to see bikes parked on the footpath, legally. Pedestrians seem to be accepting of sharing the space, and with all of the roadside "furniture" and trees it is easy for bikers to slot in without blocking access. Should be more of it I reckon. Jumped on a tram to Port Melbourne, to check out Torrini Leathers. (http:// www.torrinileathers.com.au) Picked up a quality pair of leather jeans, fairly lightweight but good for the bike in summer, only AUD$185. Three-quarter lined and a classic jean cut. Very nice! Lusted after a full-length Aussie "Dryzabone" style overcoat in bike quality leather but retrained myself. It is summer after all. At under $500 it was nearly half the price of one of similar quality but different style that I spotted in Elizabeth Street. When winter comes, and providing I am employed, there is always the Internet. Today is to be my last day in Melbourne and there is still a lot I wanted to do. Not least of which was to catch up with Peter Wilson, another VXer in Mount Waverly. Dropped in to be met by his lovely wife, Lorraine, who told me that Peter had been called to the family business, just down the road. The plan was for me to meet up with him there. Lorraine and I got chatting, as you do, only to be interrupted by a phone call. It was Peter, who had seen me ride past, and was starting to get concerned. No worries, mate. Just chattin' up your missus! Finally dragged myself away from her copious charms, and met up with Peter. We talked of bikes and roads and all manner of things. Peter then made me the worst cup of tea in the history of mankind, which was nothing, if not memorable. Like a polite guest, I drank the foul tasting liquid, and tried to stop my lips from puckering! Ever tried Chinese green tea with milk and sugar. Not good! Sorry, Peter but you knew it was coming. ;-) Next time I am going to make sure you've got your glasses with you! Despite the cuppa, I didn't have enough time with these wonderful people, but there are things to do and places to go. To thank my brother and sister-in-law for their hospitality I offered to take them out to dinner on my last night in town. Being the bohemian hermits that they are, they insisted on take away Chinese food. With the meal I grabbed three fortune cookies. Phill ended up with "Confuscious say 'Man with nose in air, easy to hook'" (?), Susannah with, "Your feet will touch the soil of many lands", and mine " Great Success Awaits You". Here's hoping! End of Melbourne visit. According to the BC800, 93.06 km in 1:49:20 at an average speed of 51.08 km/h Maximum: 98 km/h Trip distance : 1,661 km
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Tales From the Road

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Going Down, Looking For A Way Up, (continued) Day 12. By the time the bike was packed, warmed up and farewells bid to my gracious hosts, it's 11:00 am. Feeling a bit melancholy, I headed south intending to check out the bayside suburbs of Melbourne on my way down the Mornington Peninsular. Bugger that idea, bloody suburbia is much the same anywhere. Get me out of this city, quick! The M1 motorway came to my rescue until Dandenong, and soon "Angelique" and I had settled into our usual relaxed open road rhythm. The melancholy had passed, replaced by a grin. Stuck to the secondary roads through Skye, Tyabb, Moorooduc and finally hit Port Phillip Bay at Safety beach.Looking north I expected to be able to see the city skyline in the distance but even on this clear day, it was out of view. So that was Melbourne, different but just another city. ROSEBUD. That was how it was printed on the map. Perhaps they where keen to avoid any confusion with the whispering Orson Wells? The place itself is nothing to shout about. Onwards over narrow roads hugging the bay, through the pretty coastal village of Rye, and on to lovely Sorrento for lunch. A bit touristy in places but some lovely old buildings have survived and most of the new ones have been designed to blend with the older styles. An Aussie songstress, Tina Arena, had a hit with a song called "Sorrento Moon" and, although the moon was nowhere to be seen, I can understand how this place could inspire a person to burst into song. Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image
After lunch and a good look around, I loaded Angelique and myself on the 2:00pm Ferry from Sorrento to Queenscliff on the opposite side of the Bay. The crossing was calm and peaceful but you could see the breakers at "The Rip", at the opening to the sea. Even with today's ships and navigational aids, it is a tricky crossing for shipping entering the bay. Thankfully we stay inside where it is like a lake. Forty minutes later, having entered through the stern, we are regurgitated from the belly of the ship in Queenscliff, via the bow. Left to Lonsdale and onto Torquay, a real surfer town, with Bells Beach just down the road. Stopped to check it out but the surf wasn't up. Pass through the arch over the road and it's official, The Great Ocean Road!! In my excitement I missed that photo opportunity. Oh well. Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image
Once the road actually joins the coast at Anglesea, it gets very interesting with green rolling hills all the way down to a stunning coastline. Temps around 15 Celsius, with light cloud. Roadsigns proclaiming, "Winding Roads next 27km". Very little traffic, except for the occasional day tripping
two-wheeled local and tourist . Motorcycle heaven! Road surface was generally good but two stretches of roadwork in progress, a few kilometres long, were covered in deep gravel that felt like riding on two flat tyres. Definitely not fun. Stopped at Lorne for a late cuppa, steeling myself for the section ahead to Apollo Bay. I had been told by many, that this section of the road was the best of the best. I have to agree, as the road hugs the coast and follows its contours, rising and falling over the headlands. My eternal thanks to the returned "Diggers" from WW1, for their efforts in making it possible by carving the road from the stone. I wonder if they realised at the time, that they would be providing pleasure for generations to come. Pulled into find a bed at Apollo Bay, checked in and went for a walk along the beach just across the road. A flock of about fifty grey and pink Galahs enjoyed a raucous feast on the lawns in the lengthening shadows. A great day for all, I reckon. Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image
End of day twelve. According to the BC800, 240.33km in 3:13:36 at an average speed of 74.45 km/h Maximum: 131 km/h Trip distance : 1,901 km
Day 13 Awoke to clearing rain, and headed away from the coast a little, relishing the fact that the weather looked to be clearing at last. Into the Otway National Park, over some nice roads, still slick with moisture due to the shade of the overhanging foliage. Mud, debris and leaf litter made for a cautious trip. A slip or two and I was just cursing the conditions when "Angelique" reminded me of a little thing called fuel. I was out of the touring routine following my Melbourne stay, and had completely forgotten to fill up. I switched to reserve, relaxed the right wrist even more, crossed my fingers and kept going. Through the little spot on the map called Glenaire, no fuel available and 15km from the next township. The bike was starting to miss fire after a long right hander, into the next left and it cleaned up again. Fuel was so low, the fuel tap was high and dry on right handers! With luck, Lavers Hill came into view just up the road and we coasted into the Mobil for an overdue drink. 18.54 litres went into the tank, with the bike on the side stand! Too close with a 19 litre tank including reserve! Out of the National Park the road had cleared of debris, and headed back to the coast. Passed through several small hamlets, and the coastline has changed from rolling hills to the water line to dramatic cliffs with the road high above the ocean. The first of the Twelve Apostles, dramatic limestone formations weathered from the rugged coastline by the relentless wind and waves came into sight. In fact there are only eight of them still standing. Another feature, now misnamed, was a double arch formation called "London Bridge", which collapsed in 1990, stranding sightseers. Viewing platforms are provided at various points along the road and the Visitors Centre provides good pathways under the road leading to a spectacular outlook from the boardwalks built on the edge of the precipice. Like many of Mother Natures works, photos don't do this scene justice. Awe inspiring. Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image
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I walk back to the bike feeling even more insignificant than usual, and head down the road to Loch Ard Gorge, the site of the 1878 wreck of the "Loch Ard", which claimed 52 lives. A rest and cuppa at Port Campbell, a small crayfishing village situated on a spectacular, long, narrow inlet lined with cliffs. I wouldn't want to stand on that beach when a southerly swell was running. The beach is deeper than it is wide, it must get pounded severely. This is as far as we go, from here we are heading for home. We turn north-east, the next coast we see will be New South Wales, home. The further from the ocean , the dryer the country looks and the hotter it gets. Emerald green, irrigated, and cultivated crops standing out in stark contrast to the hay coloured pastures. A green fringe surrounds the lakes in the Camperdown district. The road passes between Lake Gnarpurt and Lake Corangamite over rolling country. Fast open corners, good road surface and no traffic. Buzzing along at a constant 120km/h, the bike feels great, and I give her an affectionate pat on the rear quarter. She purrs in response. We have truly bonded on this trip. Cross the Hamilton Highway and stick to the secondary roads for the last 60kms into Ballarat for lunch. Ballarat was one of the main areas of the 1850's gold rush and the scene of probably the closest thing to a Civil War we have ever had in this country. In 1854, the Eureka Stockade uprising was a dispute over the exorbitant miners license fees imposed by the Government of the day. With the oath, "We swear by the Southern Cross to stand truly by each other, and fight to defend our rights and liberties", they stood against the troopers, in a makeshift stockade beneath the Eureka Flag. The battle itself was over in about half an hour, but has attained legendary status as a defining moment in the development of the egalitarian "Australian Character". The licence fees were subsequently lowered and the leader of the uprising, Peter Lalor, went on to become "Speaker of the House" in the Victorian State Parliament. I was moved, more than I expected to be, by the exhibit at the site of the Stockade. Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image
Back on the road, through Daylesford and on to Castlemaine, a town I know as a Hot Rod and Street Machine haven. Didn't see much evidence of it, but it was only a fleeting visit. Push on to Bendigo, another gold mining boom town, and find somewhere to lay my head for the night. This is the last "must go to" places on my travels, as it is the home of another of those VX friends that I haven't met yet, Bryan Lewis. I give Bryan a call, and he is in the middle of meal preparation. Without a moments hesitation he suggests a meal with his family at a local Mexican Restaurant. He picks me up at the motel, and we share a great meal with his lovely wife, Julie and a bundle of "sugar and spice and all things nice", their delightful nine-year old daughter, Catrin. After a brief protest on my part over his insistence on paying for the meal it's back to their home for coffee, a delightful 1890's cottage, with bull-nosed verandahs and cast iron lacework, which has been sympathetically modernised and
extended. A trip out to the shed, to have a look at Bryans collection of toys, revealed an eclectic bunch. A very tidy, VX800 shared the space with an immaculate little Suzuki T125 two-stroke twin, with high rise pipes and registered on historic club plates. There was a couple of French made mopeds that had seen better days, and a weird seventies moped with a motor that pivoted with the torque reaction to provide drive and alloy mag style wheels. To Bryan, Julie and Catrin, many thanks for the hospitality and warmth of the welcome. Allow me to return the favour some time. Bryan delivers me back to my motel and we arrange to get together for a ride in the morning. Looking forward to it. End of day thirteen. According to the BC800, 407.35km in 4:28:39 at an average speed of 90.89 km/h Maximum: 172 km/h!!! (Big OOPS) Trip distance : 2,309 km
Day 14 Bryan called around, and after giving Angelique an overdue oil top up, we set off on a guided tour of Bendigo and surrounds. Old gold money is everywhere but you can see a real social strata revealed in the various old houses. From the grand and opulent homes of those that struck it rich, through to the slightly more humble dwellings of shopkeepers and businessmen who made their money without breaking their backs underground. Still surviving were several small timber shacks, rusted tin roofs, surrounded by overgrown weeds, the homes of battlers who never found that elusive big nugget. In over a century between 1851 and 1954, 595 million grams of gold Thumbnail of image were pulled from the earth around Bendigo, making it one of the richest gold fields in the world. Like Ballarat, the old public buildings are big, bold and designed to impress. The rather ostentatious RSL club is built on the site of an old mine. The Shamrock Hotel a grand shrine to the great god, alcohol. Bryan leads the way to the site of the workings of a clever digger. The reef of gold that produced the 1850s rush was pushed upwards by subterranean forces. The strata of gold bearing quartz had been thrust towards the surface forming the hills of the district. On top of one of the highest points of land, some lateral thinking Austrian, had carved a cutting out of the top of the hill. Made his fortune and still worked on the surface, using an early version of open cut mining. The cutting still exists and has a concrete pathway through it. You can see the layers in the rock jutting up at wild angles where they had been pushed upward by the awesome forces that formed our planet. It served to make the tool marks of man in the rock look paltry by comparison. Through the cutting, we climbed an old mine head, moved slightly from over its now filled in shaft, which serves as a lookout. Even after the passage of so much time, the evidence of mans impact on the land is everywhere The lust for gold resulting in patches of lunar landscape scattered through the whole area. You can trace the reef of gold by the mullock heaps on the outskirts and the mine heads running in a line right through the middle of the town. The rush could be back on, albeit on a much smaller scale. Modern, angled mining techniques and equipment allow deeper penetration into Mother Natures vault, extracting even more riches from the rainbow shaped reef of gold. The Gold Mines Hotel, opposite this site, is a lovely old
building with original cast iron lacework on the verandahs and some interesting stone walls and out buildings. Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image
Back on the bikes, and we head out of town to the southeast over roads that Bryan uses to and from work each day. Nice commute, I must admit. It's getting hotter as we buzz along through open pastures, and then plunge into the relative cool of the eucalypts shading the road. My guide gestures excitedly and accelerates, as the road rises, veers left and falls into a sweet, positive camber left hand sweeper. Bryans favourite corner, apparently. Everybody should have at least one of those. On through large fields being planted with grapes for wine production. In a few years there will be an even bigger flood of cheap Aussie wines on the market. We pause on the last hill for 100km, overlooking yet more young grapevines and take in the scene. Stretching out before us the flat, dry plains, criss-crossed by mostly dead straight tree lined roads, punctuated by patches of green crops, looked like an abstract mosaic. You almost had the feeling you could make out some hidden picture, if only you could get above it and get the right perspective. A bit like life, it Thumbnail of image seems. Motorcycle touring and "fillossofee", hand in glove, as it always was, and hopefully will be. We continue on our loop, until we meet up with the Midland Highway to the northeast of town, were I farewell my newfound friend. He heads for home, as do I. His is just a little closer, that's all. Thanks mate, it was fun! Onto that dreaded flat plain, with its dull straight roads and eye fatigue is becoming an issue in the rising temperature. I had the visor off the helmet for the nightly "debugging" and had stuffed up when refitting it. Hot, dry air was leaking through on both sides, and I was struggling to keep my eyes open. Attempted to fix it at Stanhope over a cuppa, but back on the road the leak was still there. Finally solved the problem at lunch in Benalla, by putting the parts with the "L", on the left and the ones with the "R", on the right. Bloody thing, should have come with an instructional video. The secondary roads are still dull, so I opt for a blast down the Hume Highway for a while, into the border town of Wodonga. Still dull but faster. One thing I'll say for the state of Victoria, if you dont like the landscape, just go an hour or two up the road and it will have changed dramatically. A varied little place for sure. I skirt the border to New South Wales using the Murray River Highway, twisting along
the shores of Lake Hume, a waterway that seems to go on and on. A great, fast open road with one very memorable corner signposted at 80km/h. Over a rise and a clear view of the corner awaits. Lefthand through 180 degrees around an inlet in the lake at 120km/h on the way in, 140k+ on the way out, tingling from head to foot. Pulled over on the following straight and let that one sink in. A quick u-turn proved that right-handers are as much fun as left, and another u-turn, just to make sure. Oh, and get me heading in the right direction again. Better than sex, you can do it again and again without having to recover for a few minutes in between. Well, that's how I remember sex, anyway. Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image
It's bloody hot, 35+ C, and I detour to the Tallangatta Lookout for some photos and cooling off. The town of Tallangatta is another "New" town, Old Tallangatta being flooded when the Hume Weir was built. I roll into town, a quiet place being off the highway, and look for a room for the night. The decision is not hard. There are only two pubs in town, the Victoria Hotel with a prominent sign out front, "Motorcycle Groups Welcome". No prizes for guessing where I spent the night. End of day fourteen. According to the BC800, 413.46km in 4:05:05 at an average speed of 101.22 km/h Maximum: 160 km/h Trip distance : 2,722 km
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Tales From the Road

<< Previous Page | Day 15 | Day 16 | Day 17 | Trip Statistics
Going Down, Looking For A Way Up, (continued) Days 15. Another fairly late start, due to a few too many Wild Turkeys in the Public Bar of the Vic hotel last night. Managed to be beaten by all the local ladies on the pool table. Who says the Age of Chivalry is dead. Made a good friend in the form of Spider, a 4 month old Staffordshire Bull Terrior owned by Brian and Di the publicans. A cute little bundle of energy who is destined to become a town character, with all of the locals paying him all the attention a young dog could want, and then some. It's hot and getting hotter but I decide to stick with full leathers without much underneath. I'm heading back into the mountains and, hopefully, cooler temps. It was another ten kilometres out of town before Lake Hume finally petered out. A narrow bit of man made water way with the road following the shoreline for over 50 kilometres. Through Koetong and into some lovely twisty bits, between Shelley and Berringama. The Murray Valley highway finishes at Corryong, and it is second rate secondary roads to a very nondescript border crossing, a two lane bridge over the Murray River. New South Wales, State of Confusion. Almost immediately the road starts to climb, heading into the heavily forested hills of the Kosciuszko National Park. I once worked with a Polish lady who was quite surprised to see the name of a famous Polish General assigned to the highest peak in Australia and the National Park surrounding it. Mind you, she was also horrified at the way it was pronounced in 'Strine, Cossie-Osco. No point in having your name immortalised, if nobody says it properly. In these politically correct times, there is an effort to re-educate people into pronouncing it Mount Ko-shoo-sco but to many Aussies, it will always be Mount Cossi-Osco. I am told that we do better with the Strzelecki Ranges in Victoria, named for the Polish explorer who is responsible for Mt. Cossie-Osco, sorry Ko-shoo-sco. Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image
Into the mountains with thick bush to the roadside, no sign-posting on the corners and through the little hamlet of Khancoban. The road twisted and turned, rising to the tops of steep hillsides and falling into the next valley. The only hint as to what lay ahead, the posted speed limits varying between 60 and 80 km/h. Downhill into what looked like an eighty km/h left hand sweeper with very positive camber. Halfway in, I realised I was way too fast, as the corner tightened and tightened and tightened. Running wide, trying to wash off speed and tipped in even further. Back a gear to third, the road because of the slope of the hill, went negative camber at the apex of the corner. At this point something started to scrape, the side-stand, I think. It was scraping for what seemed an eternity, the bike starting to point back onto the right side of the road and I thought I had gotten away with my lapse in concentration. The light at the end of the tunnel was soon snuffed out by a small and insignificant bump that happened to be in the path of my sparking side-stand. On impact, the back wheel was picked up ever so slightly, but at this angle of lean and with such a bad camber, it stepped to the right about half a
metre. When the tyre found terra firma again, the bike stood up and did its best to flick me into the scenery, high-side. Thankfully my left leg caught on the Gear Sack which occupied the pillion position. Miraculously, I found my arse back in the saddle but by the time the bike was under any sort of control we were headed for the dirt on the wrong side of the road. As soon as the front wheel hit the 10 centimetres of leaf litter over fine sand, it surrendered any grip. We dumped hard on my left knee, a roll and a tumble, Angelique sliding to a rest with both wheels on the very edge of a steep gully at the roadside. Cursing my stupidity, I unloaded the bike and stripped off the upper layer of leathers. Finding pieces of red reflector plastic, I thought that the tail light had smashed, but there were white pieces as well. Looking back up the road I found their source. I had taken out a roadside marker pole, thankfully made of alloy, with red and white reflectors. There was no way to stand the bike up, where it lay. The tyres had nothing but air under them. It was that close to disappearing into the landscape. As I struggled to drag my steed away from the hole that had tried to swallow it, a shiny red 4WD, all high-polished wheels and velour interior, pulled up. You know the sort, the furthest off-road they venture is the owners driveway in suburbia. Anyway, Mr. Rugged-four-wheeler, stops, looks at me, and drives on. Perhaps he didn't like the look of me. I don't recall ever being considered threatening, except perhaps, by very small children. Even they soon work out that I am "all blow, no go." By this stage there was something solid under the tyres and I felt confident that I could stand the bike up without dumping it the other way into the gully. I had managed to determine that the mirror and clutch assembly had rotated on the bars and were still intact. I had loosened them prior to my departure from Sydney, and the strategy paid off. My main concern now was the state of the gear lever but it was well and truly buried and I couldn't get a look at it. The weight of the bike was not a problem, the complete lack of traction was. With an effort I could get the bike almost up on the tyre, when it would slip sideways, back towards the gully. I tried from the back, from the front and from the middle with the same result. Cursing selfish pricks in red four wheel drives, I still couldn't get a decent look at the gear lever and fuel was leaking from the filler cap. Restoring some of my faith in human nature, my very own Good Samaritan, came to my rescue. A Subaru Forrester pulled into view, and without a moments hesitation, the driver pulled over, asked if I was OK and offered assistance. Between us we had my trusty steed righted in a flash, and after jiggling to find neutral, she fired hesitantly to life. A quick damage assessment was then undertaken. The belly pan, previously attached at four points, now hung loose from just one, in tatters. The ugly little fairing screen had the lower left corner smashed but had mostly protected the instruments. The metal plate at the top of the speedo was bent up slightly and the left handle bar was bent up and back slightly, but had missed the tank. The little indicators were OK, I doubt the standard items would have survived as well. The luggage was dirty but still in one piece. The gear linkage was bent upwards just behind the forward rose joint and the gear lever looked like a pretzel, bent 180 degrees backwards with the rubber gone. Directly above the bend in the linkage was a two-pronged wound in the bottom edge of the tank, which corresponded exactly with the profile of the alloy road marker. Slight scratches in the paint on the generator cover and plastic body-work but not very deep. The very narrow exhaust and wide load meant no damage to the muffler at all. Just cleaned 3000kms worth of dirt off the outside of it. All things considered, a very soft landing. I had the tools with me to get the gear lever into some semblance of its proper shape, at least functional again. Thank god for steel. If it had been allow it would have snapped and I'd be stranded. I didn't want to attempt to straighten the linkage with the bend right on the threaded section, in case it broke. After ensuring that I was still mobile and a lift was
not required, my rescuer bid me good luck, farewell and was gone. Motivated by acute embarrassment, I rushed to reload the bike and get geared up again. I walked back over the corner just to see what had caught me out and to see how stupid I had been. Even at walking pace I could see the radical change in radius and camber. A group of three bikes, relative locals judging by the lack of luggage, came up the hill in the opposite direction and took the corner very sedately. On the road again and the gear change was difficult with the bent linkage and lever. Kept going from first to neutral, needing another bite to make it to second. The extra effort required soon revealed an injury to the outside of my left ankle and every up-shift was a new experience in pain. The odd handlebar angle soon produced a twinge in the left shoulder. My left knee throbbed and Thumbnail of image my lower back ached. Not a happy traveler. Being more comfortable in the saddle than out, I stopped for some photos without dismounting. Limped, literally, into the ski resort of Thredbo for lunch. I soon realised that my goal of being back in Sydney tomorrow night for my daughters sixteenth birthday is probably lying, torn to shreds, on a tricky left hander between Khancoban and Geehi. I had wanted to make it to the coast today but somehow I doubt it, now. On through mums hometown of Jindabyne and the town of Berridale and look for a bed in Cooma. Still fairly early, but I am hot and sore and pissed off with myself. After a long, hot, hot shower, I am feeling a bit better. Just improving the shape of the gear lever in the motel car park when in roll a husband and wife. He mounted on a Duke ST4 she on a little Yamaha SZR600 Super-single. Both immaculate in their shiny red paint, making Angelique look very scruffy, by comparison. Discussions revealed that apart from the Great Ocean Road, we had basically covered the same route over the same timeframe. How they managed to keep their bikes so clean, on tour, through all the weather had dished up, is beyond me. Steve and Lizzie were also from Sydney and planned the same route home. Knowing, from past experience, that my aches and pains were going to be worse in the morning, I took some industrial strength pain-killers and tried to get some sleep. End of day fifteen. According to the BC800, 294.69km in 3:28:26 at an average speed of 84.81 km/h Maximum: 138 km/h Trip distance: 3,017 km
Day 16 Awoke, barely able to walk, due mainly to the ankle injury and hobbled around to get the bike packed. Finally, on the road about 10am. Gee, and I thought gear changes were painful yesterday, that was nothin'. Once up and running on the open road things weren't too bad. I'd even managed to adjust to the bent handlebars and was getting uncomfortably into the groove. Clear blue skies, with high, fluffy white clouds and perfect temps for riding. Through the specks on the map that are Rock Flat and Coonerong and on through the little hamlet of Nimmitabel. Not long after this, the plantation pine trees replaced the open, alpine plains and the road twisted and turned around the hillsides. A whiff of what I
thought was white smoke swirled through the tree tops. Having witnessed quite a few good, old Aussie bush fires in my time, I am quite used to the smell of eucalyptus trees burning. Thinking I was in for a new olfactory treat with burning pine, I rode on, breathing deeply. Puzzling, nothing but clean air. After rising a little, the road began to fall, tumbling and turning it's way down Brown Mountain. Then I realised that it wasn't smoke it was cloud. Shortly after overtaking a mini-van we plunged into a white wall and the temperature dropped about fifteen degrees. This decrease in visibility was in direct proportion with the increase in complexity of the road. It wasn't raining, just 100% humidity, the roads slick with moisture. My visor turned opaque, flipped that up and immediately the sunglasses went the same impenetrable white. Slid those down my nose and endured the cold blast of air into my eyes. With tears streaming down my face I felt my way down the mountain, a mini-van glued to my tail-light. If I went off the road he was coming too! Unable to see much more than ten metres ahead at one point, I was relying entirely on the advisory signs to tell me where the road was going. Then visibility deteriorated even further. I could just make out 25km/h on that sign, but buggered if I could tell which way the arrow was pointing! Scary stuff. After what seemed like an eternity, I emerged from the blinding Thumbnail of image mist and immediately pulled over to collect my thoughts and change my underwear. Now I know why they call it Brown Mountain! Down onto the coastal plain, through the aptly named Numbugga (It was cold) and without dismounting, took a photo of the mountain disappearing into the clouds. Overcast and cool now, compared to the high country. Still quite a way from the coast but we've now rejoined the Princes Highway, the home stretch. The south coast of NSW has always been one of my favourite areas, less commercially developed than the coast north of Sydney, and very pretty country.
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Besides, I've never been one to chase the sun. I like the chill in the air. It is all looking very dry on the undulating plains though, greener on the wooded hills Thumbnail of image and mountains. Just as I approach Nangugda Lake, Angelique reaches a milestone, 100,000 kilometres roll up on the odometer. Stop for photos of all those zeros and the surrounding scene.
Off the bike the left ankle is really bothering me and it is time for lunch. I find a Pharmacy in Narooma and buy an elastic ankle support. It helps but even after a decent rest, I doubt that I will be pushing onto Sydney today. Back in the saddle and a brief 80km blast to Batemans Bay for fuel. Whilst I am stopped Steve and Lizzie on the ST2 and SZR660 rumble past, tooting and Thumbnail of image waving. Interesting vista off the coast with five small, uninhabited islands standing sentinal over the entrance to the bay. My eldest brother is in the process of building a home here, probably for retirement. I can see the attraction. The roads meander, vaguely northwards in there well surfaced manner. I just wish I was in a better frame of mind and body to enjoy them. Around Ulladulla I start to waiver, only about three hours from home, but that is too far today. Besides, it would put me in Sydney just in time for the evening peak hour, and I can't imagine that stopstart traffic would be good for me, right now. I press on through Nowra, and finally call it quits at Berry. I check into a room at the Great Southern Hotel, one external wall adorned with a variety of car hubcaps. Classy place! Unload the bike and my room has various trunks Thumbnail of image and other antique paraphenalia as decorations. Including an antique wheelchair! They must have known I was coming. Berry is a pretty place with some lovely old builings but even here, over 160kms from the outskirts of the "Big Smoke", you can see the difference in the character of the towns. Trendy galleries and al fresco cafes catereing to the city-based day tripper appear to be everywhere. This isn't rural Austraia, any more. Kind of inevitable I suppose but sad, none the less. I give my younger daughter a call and explain that I won't be home in time to celebrate her 16th birthday, today. She is OK with dinner out tommorrow night and we have a good old chat. Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image
End of day sixteen. According to the BC800, 329.25km in 4:20:23 at an average speed of 91.30 km/h Maximum: 155 km/h Trip distance : 3,413 km
Day 17 Awoke, after a good nights sleep, and lo and behold I could walk again! Still a little uncomfortable but a huge improvement over the night before. It turned out to be a very wise decision to rest over night. Just packing the bike, when Steve and Lizzie rumble past again. Seems I wasn't the only one who had a short day yesterday. Hurried to catch them and we shared the next 100km of bitumen, including some lovely, fast twisties that follow the coast just outside of Kiama. We bid our farwells and went our seperate ways just south of Wollongong. This part of the world is very familiar to me and I have a very strong sense that this wonderful adventure is drawing to a close. Stopped for a late breakfast at
Woonona to let the morning traffic subside and then made the last, brief open road blast towards the outskirts of the city. Sydney only has a population of 4 million people but we like our quarter acre building blocks. So Sydney is a sprawling, urban blight on the landscape that stretches as far as the eye can see. It is a green city with lots of open space and trees everywhere but it still feels constrictive after the wide-open spaces and big skies of the last few weeks. I have timed it perfectly and the run through the southern suburbs is a breeze. Before I know it I am faced with the choice of harbour crossings. Tunnel or Bridge? No contest. I peel out of the Domain Tunnel and head for the Cahill Expressway and the great, corkscrew left-hander that sweeps you through 270 degrees, up onto the approaches to the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Under that massive steel arch, that has symbolised my home town for 70 years, past the massive granite pylons on the north side, and the reality settles in. I am home. Feeling meloncholy, exhausted, exhilerated and satisfied. Oh, and more than a little bit sore. Over the Spit Bridge, and nearly there. Angelique coughs and splutters at Manly Vale, just a few kms from home. Switch to reserve and fill up with fuel at the Garage at the end of my street. The same place I bought fuel the first morning of the trip. Very neat for fuel economy calculations! I pull into my driveway just as the trip computer ticks over to 3,600 km total distance. Ah, I do like symmetry. The Damage Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image Thumbnail of image
End of day seventeen. According to the BC800, 186.88km in 2:38:42 at an average speed of 70.66 km/h Maximum: 145 km/h Trip distance : 3,600 km
Trip Statistics Time In The Saddle 42 hours 16 min 6 seconds 13 days riding 17 days away Max. 4 hours 30 minutes 53 seconds Min. 1 hour 49 minutes 20 seconds (Melbourne) 3,545.9 kilometres - Odometer Max. 396.25 kilometres Min. 122.55 kilometres (Canberra) Max. 101.22 kilometres/hour Min. 51.08 kilometres/hour (Melbourne) Max. 172 kilometres/hour Min. 98 kilometres/hour (Melbourne)
Daily Hours Total Trip Distance
Average 3 hours 32 minutes 3,600 kilometres - BC 800
Average Daily Distance 276.92 kilometres Daily Average Speed 81.20 kilometres/hour
Daily Maximum Speed Average. 140 kilometres/hour
Fuel Usage
Total 224.99 litres - 14 refills
Average per fill 16.07 litres Max. fill 19.34 litres Min. fill 13.43 litres Average per fill $14.23 Max. fill $17.00 Min. fill $11.40 Max. 95.9 cents/litre Min 84.9 cents/litre Approximately 2.25 litres engine oil
Fuel Cost (AUD)
Total $199.15 Average for trip 89.6 cents/ litre
Fuel Prices
6.25 litres / 100 kilometres Fuel / Oil Consumption 45.20 miles per gallon (Imperial)
Pretty bloody good for a motor with 100,000 km on it, fully loaded and not hanging around
<< Previous Page | Day 15 | Day 16 | Day 17 |Trip Statistics
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VX800 Web Pages - Henks Page
Henk's first ride Date: 5th March 2000

First I've put the registration papers on my name. The insurance is valid since Tuesday. So nothing stands in my way to ride - I thought. Except for the weather. It was terrible today. We had 1035 hPa on the barometer. In summer this means sunshine and in winter frost. Today we had it both within 30 minutes. Sunshine and snow. And not just once. So I decided to stay in my garage together with my VX800. So she wouldn't be so lonely and cold. :-}) While being there I decided to inspect my VX. She looks very well. I doubt a bit about the brakes. Her blocks may be worn but I'm not sure. I've looked in the manual but it's difficult for me to see. I raised her mirrors with 2 vibrations dampers as I found the mirrors a bit low during the test ride. It works very well. I don't see my arms any more. A word of warning to you all. The thread of her mirrors were quite rusted. I took a lot of penetrating oil and care to loosening the nuts. After cleaning it thoroughly from rust I greased it well. Especially the nuts on the handlebar were very rusted as water runs in easily. Put a lot of grease there! Oil also the joint on the back of the mirrors and repeat it regularly. Don't forget the two nuts close the mirrors. Grease them! I did also on my 1980 GSX750 and never had any problem with adjusting the mirrors anymore. I greased the 2 joints of the gear axel as Brian suggested some days ago. (Sorry I forgot the correct words) I mounted the Plexstar 2 windscreen. It was a bit of a puzzle as the bike is new to me. But it's ok now. It's lower than my 1980 GSX750 but so is the handlebar. Now the worst problem. I tried to start the engine. The starter motor turns happily but the engine won't start. I had the gear in it's idle position (I hope the correct word). I tried to measure the sidestand switch but I couldn't follow the wiring. The engine switch on the right handlebar might also be the problem. I had this on my 1980 GSX750 but then the starter relays didn't work and thus the starter motor wouldn't run. But on the VX it turns without any problem. So I'm puzzled now. I will read the service manual tomorrow and check it all.
HELP!
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I finally got my bike running. It appeared to be dirty sparkplugs. I assume during maintenance the bike was started several times but did not run very long. The sparkplugs were covered with carbon. Together with the wet petrol no spark was possible. After I cleaned the sparkplugs the engine started quickly. The plugs look new to me. No wear was detectable just dirt. At 13h15 I put on my gear and went for a ride. After 7 km I got cold hands so I returned home to get my winter gloves. My legs also became cold. I think it's because of the fact that my legs are in free airflow on the VX800. Normally my legs were protected by the wide 1980 GSX750 engine and also got the heat of it. The VX is water-cooled , I should call it liquid cooled, so it doesn't dissipate much heat and the engine is narrow that doesn't help much either. Or perhaps it was just cold today. Approx one hour later I put on my rain trousers. That made a difference. My legs did warm up. I made a tour around our national park "the Veluwe". First I went east to Apeldoorn then turned north. I saw the sky getting dark so I went west. Drove along all kind of small roads. I started to get used to the VX800. My speed went up. The curves started to enjoy me. It had been snowing during the night so all roads were covered with mud and salt. The sun made all snow melt. Except for the small roads between the trees. The roads were still wet of melted snow. I had to stay careful not to wreck the VX on my first ride. Going West I turned on the highway. The speed went up to 120km/h. I was driving between cars. I wanted to test the VX so I opened the throttle wide. From 120 to 160km/h was several seconds. The cars seemed to stand still. The vx really pulls. I don't understand that though I have only 60HP in stead of 80 Hp on my 1980 GSX750 it performs better than my old bike. I know the torque is better but the power is less and yet it performs better. I can't help getting amazed by this all. I only stayed 5 to 10 minutes on the highway and went off again. I prefer the small roads better. I went to Nijkerk were my eldest daughter and her friend live. I showed them my , now dirty, bike. Then I went on to Amersfoort further east to my mother in law to show her my bike. After that I went back home over a lot of small roads getting more and more used to the bike. Coming home I filled the gas tank up. It was 9.34 litres for 151 km's which equals approx 6 litres per 100 kilometres . Not bad. But I kept the speed low. I noticed several things. - The position on the bike is leaning forwards. Which is ok for naked riding. But I mounted a Plexstar 2 windscreen and thus the wind does not push you up. I was hanging on my hands and shoulders. My thumbs started aching probably from the pressure. I felt my shoulders also a bit later on. I need to mount a higher handlebar to sit more upright. - The engine does not protect you from the wind and does not warm your legs and feet. A fairing to keep the wind (and rain) from your legs and feet are also very useful. - My wife thought she had more space to sit on and for her feet. But unfortunately the footrests were mine and not hers. She has less space for here legs as the footrests are a bit higher than on the 1980 GSX750. The exhaust pipes are swept up a bit. On my 1980 GSX750 they stay flat giving more length for the legs. - The 2 cylinder engine vibrates a bit more than a 4 cylinder. But it is not much noticeable on the handlebar and doesn't bother me. For the rest not noticeable at all. - The strength needed for the the clutch and front brake are more than my 1980 GSX750. I have to get used to it. Most likely the front brake can be adjusted better and perhaps the clutch too.
Henk 95 VX800, Red.

From: Henk Warnitz To: eu_vx800 group
New Page 2
"The Purple Idea"

Posted on the EU list by Flaviano, 14 March 2002
In December I've had a bad crash, I wrote you about. After that, 3 months of silence from me. But I've read the list messages every day, eaten up with envy thinking of all of you riding your beautiful VX and, in the same time, loving all of you for your talking about such a topic. The mechanic told me which was the total cost to change all damaged parts (also those with very little damages) with new ones: about euro 5.100. Just the double of the bike value. By changing just some parts and repairing some others, the cost could cut down to euro 2.500. Just the price I paid to buy the bike one year before. All my friends told me it would be madness to repair the bike, it would be like buying the same bike twice. With the same money, or a bit more, I could buy a newer machine (mine is '93). It meant to buy another kind of bike, 'cause here in Italy there are a few VX, I have been looking for mine a long time. Well, I was very sad. I knew they were right. I went to the workshop to say the mechanic non to repair. And I saw her, right there in a corner, partly disassembled, but still showing her beauty. No logical nor economic reasons to have her repaired. Requiescat In Pacem. Well, you know? I did it. I said the shop man I wanted her repaired. From that moment on, I was feeling no more sad. Definitively crazy for all my friends, of course, but happy! Yesterday I went to the shop, the bike was ready. Just like a child at the Christmas night, I looked at her just half an hour before riding, never sated with her beauty. Oh, mates, she was MY bike ! I think you can understand what I
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New Page 2
mean indeed. That leads to some questions: are we, VX owners, normal people? Who we are, actually? What does join us together? In fact, we are very different from each other: we are from North and South Europe, from West and East US, from Australia, Philippines and on and on. Different cultures, different ways of life. Women and men, entrepreneurs and unemployeds, extroverts and timids. Some of us could disassemble an engine with closed eyes, others (me...) consider every engine start just like a incomprehensible miracle. Some has seen maybe all the world, others has never been abroad. Should I keep on? Nevertheless, there is something that makes all of us someway similar. The VX, of course. But why did we choose just THAT bike, among thousand? Which is that secret reason that makes different people to be similar? I would like to know from you your own answer. Maybe the reason is the same, maybe not. As far as I am concerned, the riding and the bike herself are an aesthetic (and often ecstatic) experience. It's something that satisfies my wish of harmony. It's a mental matter, before that a physical question. That's why I call my bike "The Purple Idea" (well, the color is actually Bordeaux, but I like the sound of that name). Riding THAT bike is just like reading a very good book, or listening to my favorite music, something you can recall closing your eyes and resting for a while. That's about me. But, again, who we are?
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http://vx800.net/photos/windy.jpg
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Sample Mugs
Sample Mugs
I went down to my local print shop and had these mugs made up as samples to show what they might look like. Have a look and send me you comments - click here First we have the two with the different logos: The 'Brush' font logo
The 'Script' font logo
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Sample Mugs
and the picture (courtesy of Jim Jensen)
Sample Mugs
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Suzuki Owners Club
Suzuki Owners Club, Kent Section
Ride on Sunday, March 03 2002
I woke up on Sunday morning and the sun was shining. This was my first ride out after the aborted ride back in February. The weather was cold, but the wind had dropped for what seems to be the first time since the summer. So on with the gear and off to the filling station to fill up - the Bandit 1200 took 12litres to fill. Enough for about 160 miles. First stop is to the Oakdene Cafe to see if anyone else is coming from our area
A very nice GSXR1000 was there but alas, no other SOC members. So at 9.45 I departed for the south coast and breakfast at Hythe. The difficulty with riding at this time of year is that the sun is still low in the sky and I had to ride 46 miles straight into it. 45 minutes later I arrived in Hythe at the Light Railway Restaurant (at the beginning of the railway ) . Soon after I arrived everyone else turned up. There were 8 bikes and 10 people.
Everyone was ready for breakfast, so we got down to it
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Suzuki Owners Club
Ready for off
Paul took us up over the North Downs and down past the shop where I get my chroming done and then across ( Romney Marsh ). The roads here are bumpy and ridged but fun to go across at about 40-50mph. Unfortunately the road still had patches of damp, and so caution was wise. Not many lambs about - a legacy from the foot and mouth disease last year where the rams were not able to be moved around. We turn up at Dungeness Powerstation only to find that the visitor centre is closed.
No problem - we go onto the Railway Cafe which is the end of the line of the railway that started at our Breakfast stop. As we were having our coffee the steam train arrived making only marginally more smoke than Paul Devall's GT750 :))
Having finished our coffee we dutifully signed the ride register and departed home.
Suzuki Owners Club
And then back home. I managed to get onto my favourite route home for a 60-70mph blast through the lanes around Tenterden, Hawhusrst, Paddock Wood before arriving home after covering a total of 130 miles for the day. Ready for lunch too:)) What a wonderful ride to start the year. Thank you Paul for arranging it.
http://vx800.net/photos/Brian/ride03mar/mr03001.jpg
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Eric Johnson's VX800

With National Cycles AirHawk fairing
From the seat
From the front
Left Side
Front view
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The Squibb Family Album The Old Folks
The Squibb Family Album

The Old Folks
Grandad on his Triumph, c1948 at Blandford Camp, Dorset Dad on his Army Issue 250 sidevalve BSA. He wasn't that keen on it.
Mum on the new BSA 650 they bought after their wedding in 1949. A sidecar was added a year later so that the young Brian could go too
After WWII Dad was posted to Hamburg where he competed in many trials. He 'borrowed' the bikes from the Army - he thinks this is a Matchless.
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The Squibb Family Album The Old Folks
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Electrex Regulator Alternate Mounting
Etz's Electrex Regulator/Rectifier Mounting During the Mid-Atlantic ride of Fall 2000, my regulator/rectifier met an untimely demise. When I eventually realized in West Virginia that that funky smell I noticed from time to time was actually the smell of battery acid cooking out, I topped off with distilled water. This helped for long enough to get home. But not before my headlight blew though. A fellow lister had contacted Electrex to assist in fixing his own charging system. Through a series of problems and miscommunications with Electrex, he ended up with 2 regulators. A deal was made, and I got the spare. I hear that Electrex makes a fine regulator.....some say superior to OEM. The biggest complaint is that the Electrex unit for the VX800 does not have the same exact cabling as OEM. All the wires are there; they're just not long enough. The VX800 has an unusual regulator spot, just ahead of the rear wheel, inches from the pavement, and perilously close to the super hot exhaust crossover pipe. You need a lot of cabling to get from all the way down there to the wire junctions under the gas tank holddown. The cabling on the Electrex unit is quite short. One of the 2 sets of cables is about 3" and the other is about 7". My stock OEM regulator has cabling that is much longer at 18" from the regulator body to about the middle of the connector plugs. That would mean that I'd need an extension cable of at least 15 or so inches, preferably a bit more for 'wiggle room'. Also, the Electrex connectors do not mate perfectly with the bike's wiring harness. The two halves of the plug fit together cleanly and snugly. It's just that the little locking tabs are on opposite sides so the cable connection could conceivably pull apart. To get around these 2 issues, you can ask Electrex for an extension cable. I called to inquire and they didn't seem to know by now that the VX800 has different cabling requirements. They asked me exactly how long it should be, and how the connectors should be oriented, so they could make up a custom cable for me. I was pressed for time since I was installing the regulator just days before a week-long ride to the TWO rally. Here's what I did instead. I started looking around for a place to (temporarily) mount the regulator, at least for the duration of the trip. Under the seat maybe? Zip-tied to a frame rail? Well, I noticed a nice threaded hole on the left side frame just ahead of the shock absorber. I think the hole is actually there for the Suzuki optional center stand assist lift handle. For me the hole was just sitting there empty. With a trip to the hardware store for a bolt, and some creative wire rearranging, the wires were all able to reach.
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Here it is bolted in place. I seem to think it was an M7 bolt, but it's hard to remember. I think it's M7 because I wanted an allen head cap screw and found that nobody has M7 allen head bolts, but regular hex head bolts were available. For allens, It's either M6 or M8. Oh well. I wanted allen head because as you can see, the bolt head is very close to the first cooling fin. There's not enough room to put a socket on it. So I used an open end wrench instead. update: Jim Chen says "FYI - Believe it or not, the correct bolt IS 8mm. At least that's listed in the official Suzuki microfiche. I found that because of the paint on the body, the 8mm is a very tight fit. So tight that a bolt without the proper specs for hardness and strength will sheer off with too much torque, despite being the right size (don't ask me how I know!). If you use an allen head cap screw at 8mm (like the one holding on the passenger side foot peg brackets), it will work. You just need to be careful - either that or you can remove some of the paint with a tap. 7mm will workl, but will not be as snug. I believe you can get away with 7mm because the paint is that thick." Thanks Jim.
Note how the locking tabs on the white connector are no locked into anything. I briefly considered wrapping the plugs with electrical tape, or using zip-ties, but I decided that the plugs were snug enough and would not come apart on their own. So far, no problems. I was also concerned that maybe the spot under the side cover would not provide enough cooling airflow, but the Electrex guy said it would be fine. He said that heat dissipation is not an issue as long as you have a small air
space around it and that it is not mounted directly on hot engine parts. It also occurred to me that the regulator on my ZX6/ZZR600 lives under a side panel without any worries. The spot under the cover has a healthy amount of airspace around it and actually quite a bit of airflow due to turbulence. No worries about the heat distorting the side panel. Sometimes I take a glove off and reach down and feel the regulator to see how hot it gets. It doesn't get too hot to touch, but I wouldn't want to hold it for long. Here's how it looks with the side panels installed. The regulator peeks out a bit, but you pretty much have to crouch down to see it.
When I suspected my reg of failing, I pulled it out and did the bench tests exactly like in the manual. I wrote out the results of all the tests in a grid format, just like in the manual. The results were all screwed up, so I decided the reg must certainly be fried. When I got the replacement, I did the same bench tests. The results were all over the place and made no sense relative to what I was expecting from the service manual. I'm thinking 'great, this one is fried too'. Not knowing what else to do, I installed it anyway and all has worked fine from then on. I guess that the manual's test values only apply to OEM reg/rec and not the Electrex ones. Either that or the table of test values is some sort of cruel hoax. I'd like to try the tests one day with a properly working OEM reg/rec; preferably a new one. update: Paul Fox posted a message that explained that ohmmeters display resistance measurements based on the voltage the meter itself puts out. Different meters put out different voltages, and thus will display different resistance values. The test values in the service manual are based on a Suzuki tester part#09900-25002 (approx US $125), which I sincerely doubt anyone owns. If you use your own meter, you may get different values.
I've heard that the 2 slots on the Electrex reg/rec just slightly don't line up with the stock mounting screw holes in the frame. You may have to widen them a bit or make do with only one screw holding it in. I could be wrong though, since I didn't actually do this. (Mike in Bama confirmed that this is the case) Don't miss Fred Morris's VX800 regulator / rectifier story at http://www.inwa.net/~m3047/rect-reg/rect-reg.html
VX800 Brakes Rebuild Home
VX 800 Brake Caliper Rebuilds Warning: Brake fluid is extremely nasty to painted surfaces. Please be ultra-careful to not get any on your bike or other parts. Keep clean rags and maybe some soapy water handy for quick cleanup. While re-filling the fluid reservoirs, cover your tank, gauges, and other vulnerable parts. As you work, it will be unavoidable to get brake fluid on the caliper's painted surface. Remove the source by wiping out the inside as soon as possible, and then just be diligent in keeping your hands clean and wiping off any remaining fluid that comes out.
Got brakes that look like this? Do they drag, or leak fluid?
Maybe you need to rebuild that caliper!
Brake system failures often occur linked to corrosion inside the calipers, or dirt and brake dust accumulating at the outer edge of the brake pistons. This can be fixed by taking your calipers apart and cleaning or replacing any parts that need it. I suppose if you are having problems with your brakes dragging, you could probably get away with just a good cleaning inside and out, and not actually replacing any parts. But if your brakes are leaking from the piston area, then you will be in for a more thorough rebuild. Your first line of defense it to change your brake fluid regularly. DOT3 and 4 brake fluid will absorb
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moisture during it's lifetime. That moisture will come into contact with the metal parts in your brakes and in time will cause all sorts of corrosion related problems. I bought VX800 brake rebuild kits from http://www.ronayersmotorsports.com. Their order line is 1.800.888.3084. The price as of in November 2001 was $27.64 for the front kit and $53.15 for the rear kit, plus shipping.
front caliper rebuild kit - part#59100-01830 rear caliper rebuild kit - part#69100-45870 UPDATE: I re-ran the part numbers at RonAyers.com in November 2003 and found that the part number for the front has been superceded by 59100-01831. Even better, the price is now reduced to only $19.92. The rear part number still works, but it's price is now $38.51 There is a slim chance that I got the boxes mixed up before taking the picture. So if you plan on ordering a kit for just one caliper, double-check the part# first!
According to the order guy, the sealing rings are available individually, priced at a very reasonable $2 to $3 each. However he did say that the pistons and at least one of the dust seals were not available separately from the kit. Here's some of the stuff you'll need to do the job:
q q q q q q q q q q q q q q
q q q q q
New seals and/or pistons, o-ring, dust boots. Clean DOT4 brake fluid from a closed container LOTS of clean rags and paper towels. Pans to hold the parts Plastic baggies and zip ties or twist ties Newspapers to protect the work surface Socket wrenches and combination wrenches: 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, & 14mm Allen wrenches: 8mm Needle nose pliers Vinyl hose to drain brake fluid. A jar or pan to catch the drained brake fluid Compressed air (optional but highly recommended) Dental pick or other suitable tool (ie tiny jeweler's screwdriver) Cleaning and polishing tools (toothbrush, fine wire wheel, super-fine steel wool, high grit emory cloth, etc...) High-temp silicone grease suitable for brake systems New brake fitting crush washers (10mm or 3/8") A new cotter pin for the rear brake torque bar Torque wrench(s) with the appropriate ranges of measurement A tool to prime the hydraulic system might be helpful
These pages are meant to be read in order. For example, some of the stuff needed for doing a front caliper is discussed in the rear caliper pages. If you are planning on doing the front only, and skip ahead, you'll miss some important stuff. After reading this whole series of pages, don't miss the links on the last page to some other brake rebuilding pages. Enough with the parts and tools, on to the bike!
Brake rebuild main page Rear caliper removal Front caliper removal Rear caliper disassembly and repair Front caliper disassembly and repair Installation and testing
VX "driven joint" problem
The VX "driven joint" problem In April of 2000, I realized that the rear drive splines on the VX were in serious trouble. The wear problem in the VX rear end is caused either by grit and corrosion in the pin/bushing assembly, or by uneven wear on the ring splines, either of which causes the driven joint to ride further and further to the left, i.e. away from the wheel, and toward the drive assembly. The driven joint is held to the wheel by retainer plates that ride in a groove around its outer edge. This lets it rotate slightly as the rubber bushings holding the mating tubes compress slightly under load. The constant motion of the retainer plates relative to the groove, along with pressure pushing the driven joint to the left, causes wear both on the side of the groove and on the plate itself. Once this wear starts, the splines on the joint and drive assembly will wear in such a way as to make the problem worse -- force against the tapered splines will force the driven joint sideways, away from the wheel. When the wear gets bad enough (about a millimeter, maybe two, total) the outer casting nubs on the driven joint (the back side of where the pins mount) will start making contact with a protrusion on the inside of the drive casing on the bike. This is metal to metal contact. (You can see scrapes from this contact in picture 3, below.) The good news is that since there are only three retainer plates, and the driven joint can be inserted in 6 different orientations, you can wear it out twice before having to replace it. :-) You'll want to replace the retainer plates though (and probably the locking plates that hold them on as well). This is all clearly a bad design, and not an expected wear item -- my bike only has 40,000 miles on it, and the shop manual doesn't mention even inspecting these parts. The solution is to ensure that the pins and bushings are clean enough, and lubed, to minimize sideways pressure on the driven joint. I'm not sure you can do much more than that. As for the wear on my splines -- I'm a little worried that lining everything up again, with new retainer plates, and a fresh area on the joint's groove, will cause fast wear on the "high" spots of the spline teeth. I'll be opening it up soon to check on this, and to relube.
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1)
2)
3)
4)
5)
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7) As a further final chapter on this problem in early June of 2001, I took some more pictures when I actually got around to replacing the rear drive completely. The bike is over a year older, with another 10 or 12,000 miles on it.
11)
[Big]
12)
[Big]
14)
[Big] And as a comparison, here are pictures of the replacement. It came from a donor bike that was being parted out by a salvage yard in Ohio. I was told it had less that 10,000 miles on it.
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[Big]
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[Big]
All images Copyright 2000 by Paul Fox

Non-commercial reproduction permitted.
Replacing the VX800 Rectifier-Regulator

(c) 2001, 2003 by Fred Morris, Seattle WA. All rights reserved. Contact me at: 206.297.6344 or by email at: m3047@inwa.net
VX800 content at this site: A damned Fine Pony / A Road Trip to Darrington / Fork Gaiters / Replacing the Rectifier-Regulator other motorcycle content at this site: VME Vashon 2000
All information in this document is believed to be correct, and is presented primarily for educational purposes; it is not intended to be a service manual. Use of the information is at your own risk; if you are unsure of any of the concepts discussed here or are unwilling to assume that risk, contact qualified service personnel.
What is a "Rectifier-Regulator"?
On any modern vehicle, there are parts which consume electricity; that electricity has to come from somewhere, which is the charging circuitry. In the old days they used to used magnetos for ignition (still found on lawn tools) and before that make-or-break (too hard to explain. i've seen it on one of Dave LeClercq's old old donkey engines, basically there isn't a spark plug, there's a switch inside the cylinder head where the spark plug would be.. when it opens it makes a spark). A Rectifier-Regulator is a standard part of the electrical charging circuitry on most recent (whatever that means) motorcycles. It differs from the usual automotive charging circuit primarily by its use of a shunt regulator, which "soaks up" excess electricity instead of preventing its formation in the first place.
The alternator
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THE ALTERNATOR consists of two electrical coils. The stationary

(yellow) one is used as an electromagnet, and is called the field coil. The rotating (blue) one is the one that gives us power. It does this because when you move a coil inside of a magnetic field, it induces an electrical current. Because the coil rotates in a magnetic field, the current flips back and forth, which is called alternating current.
The typical automotive charging system
THE AUTOMOTIVE CHARGING CIRCUIT uses a regulator which controls the output of the alternator by
varying the strength of the magnetic field in which the stator coil rotates. The rectifier is often part of the alternator assembly. The regulator is typically a separate small box. Regulators can be mechanical (another electromagnet pulls apart the contacts which send electricity to the field coil when the system is fully charged) or solid state; the ignition switch typically takes the regulator out of the circuit since the sensing circuitry draws a small amount of power and would eventually drain the battery down.
The typical motorcycle charging system
THE MOTORCYCLE CHARGING CIRCUIT uses a shunt regulator. The magnetic field in the alternator is
generated by means of permanent magnets. The rectifier and regulator are usually combined into the same assembly. The shunt regulator works by bleeding off the electricity from the fully-charged circuit. This means that when the battery is fully charged, the shunt regulator makes a lot of heat! That's why motorcycle rectifierregulators have cooling fins.
What can go wrong with it?

These things do just fail from time to time. However, before going to the time and bother and expense of replacing one, it is prudent to consider if there are contributory factors. You should conduct a postmorten
electrical system check and verify that all components are in good working order. You should perform some basic postmortem checks on the RR itself, and attempt to determine what has failed, internally. The diagnostics required to do that are beyond the scope of this document. I recommend you check out Electrex USA, both for their troubleshooting guide and also as a source of replacement parts (when I had to replace mine, it was late on a Friday; nobody answered the phone to check pricing or availability, so I started calling dealers and one of them actually had one in stock so I bought it even though I probably paid more than I needed to).
Total failure
"It's dead, Jim!" -- famous line uttered several times by McCoy in the original Star Trek television show Total failure does not usually mean that every part inside the unit died at the same time. All of the parts share a common ground or hot connection; if the unit tests out totally dead, then this internal "bus" connection probably failed. This is typically due to either a manufacturing defect or else excessive heating and cooling. A failed connection can cause any of the observed failure modes, so keep that in mind: just because the device doesn't test out totally dead, doesn't mean that it wasn't defective or simply overheated one too many times.
Failed diodes
If this happened, your battery probably stopped holding a charge, the lights got dim, and you had to park it. The circuit diagram above is simplified, and shows a half-wave rectifier; in practice, full-wave rectifiers are typically used. In such cases, if a single diode fails you get half of the charging output from the RR. If the diodes (rectifier) tests out bad but the regulator (zener) tests out good, be on the lookout for a short or bad connection to the alternator stator coils. A sloppy connection can cause some serious voltage spikes, which can destroy diodes. Check also for a bad battery connection; thankfully, the integrated shunt regulator should provide some protection against this (unlike the automotive circuit), but again it could cause some serious overvoltages. A shorted battery could cause the diodes to draw too much current and burn out as well. A reversed battery could burn out the diodes.
Failed shunt regulator (zener)

If this happened, your headlight probably got really bright... until it burned out. Your battery probably boiled dry, too. If the zener (regulator) burned out, check your battery connections! Also, make sure that all of your running lights are working; remember, the regulator bleeds off excess power, and generates a lot of heat doing so. If all of the lights aren't working, that's more heat for the regulator to get rid of. Also, you didn't jump-start your bike from a car with the motor running, did you? Bad idea!
Battery and other problems
There is anecdotal evidence that a bad battery can stress the RR. As noted, if your running lights aren't working, that makes the shunt regulator work harder.
Replacing that sucker

So, now we get to what this page is all about! To replace the RR, you will have to take your VX apart. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Remove the grab handle behind the seat. Remove the side bodywork. Remove the gas tank. Test your electrical system. Remove and replace the RR. Put it all back together.
Removing the Grab Handle

Easy peasy! It's held on by the two allen head screws.
Removing the Bodywork

The side bodywork comes off pretty easily. First, remember to disconnect the taillight. Then, remove the two screws (one on each side). Finally, pull gently to release the press-fit nubs (two on each side).
Removing the Gas Tank

To remove the gas tank, you first need to remove the two screws at the rear (see gas tank mounts in photo in previous section). Now, you need to lift up carefully, so you can disconnect the hoses which connect to the tank. There are two hoses going to the fuelcock, and two vent hoses. If you have a bike with the California carbon (emissions) cannister, these hoses are not interchangeable! The Aurora Suzuki Home for Clowns in Seattle Washington got this wrong three times in a row.. and botched the incidental repairs on times 3 & 4.. lying sacks of garbage... do not take your bike to these fools! Once you get the hoses disconnected, you can pull backwards slightly on the tank to release it from the bracket at the front, pictured in the first two photos below (that blue thing in the second photo is a screwdriver holding up the tank).
Testing the Electrical System

You should perform some checks to verify that the RR is indeed the problem, and that it is the only problem. The types of tests and the specific steps to follow are beyond the scope of this document. The Electrex USA web site previously cited has a generic troubleshooting guide which can be downloaded. You will need a voltmeter and some jumper wires to perform the checks. Note the close proximity of the wires and the fuel hoses in the pictures in this section and the previous one. Furthermore, be aware that an alternator in an open circuit can generate sufficiently high pulse voltages to cause sparking and a fire, as well as posing at least a slight risk of electrocution. If you've got one, having a fire extinguisher at hand is probably a prudent precaution.
Removing And Replacing the RR

Removing and replacing the RR is the most difficult part of the entire operation. The thing is mounted on a metal plate in behind the engine and underneath the exhaust crossover pipe. If you have a California carbon cannister, it will be directly in the way. Loosening the exhaust system will gain you a slight amount of additional clearance. The wiring harness snakes over the right side of the bike. The RR itself is held on by two phillips head screws.
Putting it all Back Together

Be sure your fuel tank hoses and electrical connections are good, and avoid pinching anything.
The Extra Orange Wire

As you can see below, the replacement RR has one less wire (the orange one) than the original! What does this orange wire do? Turns out it is a sense wire. So, what's in the RR is not just a large honkin' zener diode, but an actual shunt circuit. The sense wire connects (more) directly to the battery, and doesn't carry any appreciable current; therefore it theoretically gives a better reading of the voltage at the battery. If your electrical connections are sound, this supposedly doesn't matter.
Other Rectifier-Regulator Stories

Etz
Etz used the Electrex regulator.
rev. by: Fred Morris rev. date: 10-Nov-2003

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Steve Feb 2000

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Forks in vice - note cloth to stop scratches

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Tip the oil into a can for disposal later

This is what bad fork oil looks like:

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