T he Commons Wednesday, July 27, 2011 C1

ChRI s T oPhe R
e mI L Y CoUT A nT
The World on My Plate
LIFe & WoRK
Wednesday, July 27, 2011 page C1
s e CT I on C
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J
uly is the very defini-
tion of high summer,
that time of year when
the green is just at its
lush peak, the veeries are in
full song, and life is wonder-
ful. We have had lots of very
hot weather and lots of rain.
Tomatoes are happy. Beans are
ecstatic. Garlic is in heaven.
I love garlic. In years long
past I grew it, but now my gar-
den patch is small, my ambi-
tions lean more toward the
kitchen, and my home is near
Lilac Ridge Farm, where garlic
is gorgeous and abundant. In
July, garlic becomes my obses-
sion and my delight.
Garlic is a species of the on-
ion genus, allium. Other com-
mon edible alliums are shallots,
leeks, and chives.
Many gorgeous ornamental
alliums can be grown in peren-
nial gardens. Both edible and
ornamental alliums grow from
bulbs that produce scapes, or
flower stems.
In the case of ornamentals,
these scapes are the most im-
portant part. In the case of gar-
lic, the scapes [The Commons,
May 18] dont count as much
as the bulb and actually must
be cut off for the bulb the
bulb that we call garlic to
thrive.
There are two main types of
garlic: hard-neck and soft-neck.
And yes, thats the differ-
ence: hard-neck garlic does
have a hard neck. Its bulb is
characterized by individual
cloves growing around this
rather hard center stalk. Hard-
neck garlic is the variety that
produces those exquisitely sen-
sual scapes that are still avail-
able at the farmers market.
Soft-neck garlic produces a
scape that droops and a bulb
with larger cloves on the out-
side and smaller, irregularly
shaped ones closer to the mid-
dle. Soft-neck garlic in the one
that is braided into long chains.
Elephant garlic is not true
garlic, but closer to the leek
species. I also think it has al-
most no garlic flavor and a
texture that more closely re-
sembles mashed potatoes.
The entire Allium genus has
more than 400 varieties but
within the edible garlic vari-
ety there are five main types
of hard-neck and three of soft-
neck. Within those types, more
than 600 sub-varieties grow all
over the world.
The garlic I buy this time of
year at Lilac Ridge is not yet
cured, or dried. it is the fully
grown version of the green gar-
lic one finds at the market in
May.
Garlic can actually be har-
vested three times: in its scal-
lion-like youth in the spring, in
its adolescent scape stage, and
starting in mid-July as a grown-
up fully formed bulb.
Amanda Thurber grows
hard-neck garlic, and one buys
it with the entire stem still at-
tached, unlike the lopped-off
heads you find at the store. The
neck of hard-neck garlic is very
hard indeed, and I urge you to
be careful when cutting it off!
Once you have the bulb free,
you need to separate the cloves.
I usually trim off a thin slice
on the root end, which exposes
the cloves nicely. The dry, pa-
pery covering that we peel from
dried garlic is sturdier and
more uniform in young bulbs.
First, I break down the bulb
into individual cloves. I take
a small knife and make a slice
through the covering, then
peel it off in strips with my fin-
gers until the beautiful, moist,
and flavorful clove is fully
undressed.
If I wish to age and store the
garlic, I merely brush off the
most obvious dirt and hang
each stalk, bulbs not touching
one another, in a dark, warm
attic that has good circulation.
After three or four weeks,
the stalk and the bulb should
be dry and the outer cover-
ing hardened into a protective
coat. I then cut off the stalk
with sturdy garden pruners and
store the bulbs in the cellar,
where it is dark and cool.
HOW TO uSE this gorgeous
stuff? We all have a bulb or two
of garlic in the kitchen, and we
mince it up with some onions
at the start of most dishes. This
is a centuries-old use of garlic,
and a good one at that.
But I believe that garlic is too
delicious an object to be rele-
gated to the chorus.
Here are three classic, totally
fabulous recipes that highlight
garlic as the star of the kitchen,
a role it fully deserves. Some of
these you may already know,
or at least recognize, but I urge
you to try them all. They will
make you another of garlics
adoring fans.
Aioli is nothing more than
homemade mayonnaise with
garlic. If you have never made
your own mayonnaise, here
is the reason to do it, and it is
easy.
This stuff is one of the most
delicious and versatile sauces
you will find; it is as great on
grilled fish, chicken, and veg-
etables as it is in sandwiches or
potato salads.
Find a medium bowl that
will fit snugly inside a larger
pot lined with a dish towel, so
you can whisk like crazy and
the bowl will remain stable.
To make 1 cup, measure 2
teaspoons of lemon juice and 1
egg yolk into the medium bowl.
Take 1 large clove of garlic
and mince it well, then smash
it into a paste. Sprinkle a bit of
salt on the minced pieces and
mash them with the flat side of
a chefs knife, or use a mortar
and pestle if you have one.
Add the garlic to the bowl.
Whisk this mixture until well
combined. Pour cup of neu-
tral high-quality oil like grape-
seed or safflower and cup of
high-quality extra-virgin olive
oil into a glass measure with a
pourer.
Secure the bowl and begin
whisking, drizzling a few drops
of oil at a time into the mix-
ture until it begins to get thick
and emulsifies. Continue add-
ing the oil, whisking vigorously
until everything is smooth, yel-
low, and like mayonnaise! Add
salt to taste.
Individual garlic custards
may sound strange at first, but
they are actually delicate, in
part because the garlic is sim-
mered in the milk until all
its harshness has been trans-
formed into sweetness. Its the
same principle as steeping a va-
nilla bean when making dessert
custard.
Young garlic is by its nature
sweeter and works perfectly in
this recipe. These cloves are
delicious eaten at room tem-
perature, so you can make
them in the morning and serve
them with a grilled steak that
evening.
Preheat the oven to 325 de-
gees F, butter four 4-ounce
ramekins, and place them in a
baking dish. Add all the peeled
Garlic
The
LOVE
of
Make the versatile
allium the star of the
kitchen this summer
JAY ERICkSOn/CREATIvE COMMOnS (BY) LICEnSE
A braid of soft-neck Vermont garlic.
nOAHSuSSMAn/CREATIvE COMMOnS (BY) LICEnSE
A basket of Vermont hard-neck garlic. n see gArlic, PAGE C4
C2 T he Commons Wednesday, July 27, 2011 C2 LIFe & WoRK T he Commons Wednesday, July 27, 2011
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2011 Henry Hook
Last issues solution
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2011 Emily Cox and Henry Rathvon
C4 T he Commons Wednesday, July 27, 2011 C4 LIFe & WoRK T he Commons Wednesday, July 27, 2011
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cloves from one head of gar-
lic to cup of whole milk and
cup of heavy cream in a me-
dium-heavy saucepan. Add
a bay leaf and a sprig of fresh
thyme.
Bring to a simmer over me-
dium heat and cook slowly,
lowering the heat and covering
the pan, until the garlic is com-
pletely soft, 20 to 30 minutes.
Pure this mixture in the bowl
of a food processor.
In a medium bowl, whisk 2
large eggs and 3 egg yolks with
a dash of salt.
Strain the garlic mixture
through a sieve directly into the
eggs, and whisk to mix well.
Divide this mixture evenly
among the ramekins and add
enough very hot water to the
baking dish to reach halfway up
the sides of the ramekins.
Bake for about 25 to 30 min-
utes, until the custards are set
but still a bit jiggly.
Remove the ramekins from
the water, and cool on a rack.
When ready to serve, run a
sharp knife around the edges of
each ramekin and boldly invert
onto a plate.
The custard is creamy and
rich, filled with the subtle yet
pervasive flavor of garlic and
a tiny hint of thyme. If you
are lucky enough to get your
hands on some local chante-
relle mushrooms this time of
year, saute them in a few table-
spoons of butter, spoon them
over the custard, and dust with
minced parsley. You will have
created one the the great meals
of July.
This last recipe for garlic
soup is from Richard Olneys
The French Menu Cookbook.
Olney was a difficult, eccentric,
wonderful man from Iowa who
ended up living in France for
decades, wandering his prop-
erty in worn espadrilles and tat-
tered shorts, wine glass ever in
hand, creating some of the best
food in the world.
Olneys garlic soup is a clas-
sic and should be made by ev-
eryone at least once before they
join him in heavens kitchen.
This recipe will serve 4 to 6
people.
Bring a quart of water to a
boil and add 1 bay leaf, 3 sage
leaves, 1 spring of thyme, and
10 to 15 peeled and crudely
crushed garlic cloves. Cook,
covered, at a gentle boil for 40
minutes.
Strain this liquid into an-
other saucepan and discard the
herbs but push as much of the
garlic as possible through the
sieve into the liquid. Set aside.
In a medium bowl, combine
1 whole egg and 2 egg yolks,
1 ounces of grated high-qual-
ity Parmesan cheese and some
freshly ground pepper. Beat
with a whisk until creamy.
Slowly pour in cup ex-
tra-virgin olive oil while con-
tinually whisking, then add a
ladleful of the reserved gar-
lic water, also while whisking.
Pour this egg-and-cheese mix-
ture into the remaining liq-
uid in the saucepan and whisk
over low to medium heat un-
til slightly thickened just
enough to no longer be watery.
Ladle the result into soup
bowls that have pieces of bro-
ken-up day-old bread in the
bottom. It is truly incredible.
I recommend eating this
soup outdoors on the deck or,
better yet, at a long wooden
table underneath some shady
trees. A soft summer breeze, of
course, the sounds of birds, the
company of old friends, and
lots of ros would provide the
perfect accompaniment.
With each delectable spoon-
ful, think of how lucky we are
to live here in a garden paradise
of green where garlic grows to
make this soup.
Dont forget your espadrilles.
n garlic FROM SECTIOn FROnT
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s
top and smell the garlic! Thats all
you have to do.
William Shatner