Material Minimum Requirements

valid from 01-2007 revised 08-2009

Register
page 1 page 2 page 3 page 4 page 5 page 6 page 7 page 8 page 9
Woven, Circularknit, Flatknit Accessories, Scarfs, Gloves For all compositions

Flatknit

Knitwear, Pullover, Cardigans

CO,CO-Mix

Flatknit

Knitwear, Pullover, Cardigans Jackets, Downjackets, Jackets water resistant / water repellent

Wool Mixtures

Woven

CO,CO-Mix,Man Made Fibre,Man Made Fibre Mix

Woven

Jackets, Trousers, Skirts Jackets, Trousers, Skirts, Accessories

WO, Man Made Fibre, Other Protein Fibre

Woven

Leather

Woven Woven, Circularknit

Jackets, Trousers, Skirts, Tops

Indigo + Sulfur dyed garments

Lining Shirt, Blouses, Tops, Trousers, Dresses,Skirts Sweatshirt, Sweatjacket, Sportswear

For all compositions

Woven

CO, CO-Mix, Silk

page 10 Circularknit page 11 Circularknit

Woven, Circularknit, Flatknit Woven, Circularknit, Flatknit Woven, Circulraknit, Flatknit

CO, CO-Mix

T- Shirts,Blouses

CO, CO-Mix, Regenerated fibres

page 12

Beachwear

For all compositions

page 13 page 14 Leather page 15

All productgroups Shoes Leather

Shoes

For all compositions except leather

valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009

Norm Index
Index 1
1.1 1.2

Test method CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS

weight tolerance g/m determination of thickness

Standard
ISO 3801 ISO 2589 ISO 6330, 5077, 3759 ISO 6330, 5077, 3759 ISO 3175 visual judgement TOM TAILOR method TOM TAILOR method ISO 12945-2 ISO 12945-2 ISO 12945-2 TOM TAILOR method TOM TAILOR method ISO 12947-1/2 DIN EN ISO 13936-2 DIN EN ISO 13934-1 EN ISO 13937-2 DIN 53835-14 Part 11-A : 2008 Part 10-B : 2008 DIN EN 13562 ISO 3376 ISO 3377- part 1 DIN 53331 ISO 5402 ISO 11644 TOM TAILOR washtest ASTM D 1230 DIN EN ISO 17707 DIN EN ISO 17708 DIN EN 13287 Methods DIN EN 12771 material,coated in accordance to DIN EN ISO 13934-1 DIN EN 12785 TOM TAILOR washtest ISO 105 C06 ISO 105 C06,C08,C09 ISO 105 D01 ISO 11643 ISO 105 X12 ISO 105 X12 ISO 11640 ISO 11640 ISO 11640 ISO 105 E04 ISO 105 E04 ISO 11641 ISO 105 E01 ISO 11642

2
2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
shrinkage after washing (total value of shrinkage in warp and weft must never be more than +/- 5% for CK and Fk and +/- 3% for WO) shrinkage after tumbling shrinkage after dry cleaning optic after washing

3
3.1 3.2 3.3 a 3.3 b 3.3 c 3.4 a 3.4 b 3.5 3.6 3.7 a 3.7 b 3.8 3.9 3.10 3.11 3.12 3.13 3.14 3.15 3.16 3.17 3.18 3.19 3.20 3.21 3.22 3.23 3.24 3.25 3.26 3.27

MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

spirality before washing spirality after washing pilling (500 cycles) pilling (1000 cycles) pilling (2000 cycles) fuzzing before washing fuzzing after washing abrasion resistance seam slippage resistance determination of maximum force (strip method) tearing strength permanent tensile (elastic behaviour) Turbidity with Automated NTU Meter Fill Power with Steam Conditioning water column determination of tensile strength and percentage extension (strip method) (leather) determination of tear load - single edge tear (leather) determination of stitch tear resistance (leather) determination of flex resistance by flexometer (leather) test of adhesion of finish (leather) resistance of crinkle, pleats, tackings burning behaviour of clothing determination of flex ressitance for outsoles (shoes) adhesion of sole (shoes) slip resistance (shoes) floormarking of outsoles (shoes) tear strength for outsoles (shoes)

determination of flex resistance upper material (shoes) pull out strength for buckles and straps (shoes)
heel attachment (shoes) appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc.

4
4.0 4.1 a 4.2 a 4.2 b 4.3 a 4.3 b 4.3 c 4.3 d 4.3 e 4.4a 4.4 b 4.4 c 4.5 a 4.5 b

COLOUR FASTNESS FASTNESS COLOUR colour change after washing

to washing to dry cleaning to dry cleaning (leather) rubbing, dry rubbing, wet rubbing, dry (leather) rubbing, wet (leather) rubbing, perspiration (leather) to perspiration, acid to perspiration, alcaline to perspiration (leather) to water to water (leather)

4.6 4.7 4.8 4.9 4.10 4.11 4.12 4.13 4.14

to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test) to artificial saliva (mini kids, up to size 110) to seawater to chlorine water to water spotting (leather) optic after washing (change in shade must be not be less than grade 4, surface must not be different to unwashed sample) phenolic yellowing cf to shoe polish/care product colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc.

ISO 105 B02

64 LFGB B 82.10-1
ISO 105 E02 ISO 105 E03 (50mg/l) ISO 15700 visual judgement DIN EN ISO 105-X18

DIN EN ISO 11640

ISO 105 C06

5
5.1 5.2

COLOUR COMMUNICATION
max. total colourdifference light box D65 depends on the shade In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism.

valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009

page 1

Accessories, Scarfs, Gloves

Woven, Circularknit, Flatknit = for all compositions

minumum requirement
+/- 5%

1
1.1

characteristic features CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS

weight tolerance g/m

2
2.1 2.3 2.4

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
shrinkage after washing shrinkage after dry cleaning optic after washing

CK
+/-5 % +/-4 %

max. 10 gr/m FK WO
+/-5 % +/-4 % +/-3 % +/-3 %

has to be in shape after washing 2-3 2-3 2-3 3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4

3
3.3 a 3.3 b 3.3 c

MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

Pilling (500 cycles) Pilling (1000 cycles) Pilling (2000 cycles) carded yarn, felpa brushed outside, mohair, angora, Kashmir, peached outside wool-mix, merino, viscose

after 2000 rubs after 2000 rubs

1-2 2-3 3

1-2 2-3 3

1-2 2-3 3

3.27

silk after 2000 rubs appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine Siemens S 14.47 (WM 14S477)

4
4.0

40C 40C gentle 40C extra gentle 30C 30C gentle 30C extra gentle wool 30C wool cold handwashprogram COLOUR FASTNESS
colour change after washing

60 min 45 min 40 min 60 min 40 min 40 min 35 min 35 min

1200 cycles 800 cycles after 5 times washing with color washing 600 cycles detergent no faults visible, tested item must not 1200 cycles show any visible defects and appearance must 800 cycles be satisfactory 600 cycles 600 cycles 600 cycles

4-5 4 4 3-4

pigment dyed/printed,tinted
4.1

to washing peached fabrics pigment dyed/printed,tinted

3
4 3 2 3-4

4.2 a 4.3 a 4.3 b 4.4 a

to dry cleaning to rubbing, dry to rubbing, wet to perspiration, acid peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed,tinted to perspiration, alcaline peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed,tinted

3
3-4 3 4

4.4 b

4.5 a

to water

peached fabrics pigment dyed/printed,tinted

4.6

3-4 3 4-5 3-4 has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast no faults visible 4

to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test) pigment dyed/printed,tinted to artificial saliva
mini kids, up to size 110

4.7 4.11 4.14

optic after washing colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label

5
5.1 5.2

COLOUR COMMUNICATION garment to garment: max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be To avoid metamerism different materials have to DE 0,5 In case different materials of the same shade are used in be matched under different colour matching

*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5
valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009

page 2

Knitwear, Pullover, Cardigans Flatknit = CO, CO-Mix

minumum requirement
+/- 5%

1
1.1

characteristic features CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS

weight tolerance g/m

2
2.1 2.3

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
shrinkage after washing shrinkage after dry cleaning

max. 10 g/m Flatknit

+/-5 % +/-4 %

3
3.1 3.2 3.3 a 3.3 b 3.3 c

MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

spirality before washing spirality after washing pilling (500 cycles) pilling (1000 cycles) pilling (2000 cycles) appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine Siemens S 14.47 (WM 14S477) 2% 3 %; maximum 3,0 cm 3-4 3-4 3-4

3.27

4
4.0

40C 60 min 40C gentle 45 min 40C extra gentle 40 min 30C 60 min 30C gentle 40 min 30C extra gentle 40 min wool 30C 35 min wool cold handwash35 min program COLOUR FASTNESS
colour change after washing

1200 cycles 800 cycles 600 cycles 1200 cycles 800 cycles 600 cycles 600 cycles 600 cycles

after 5 times washing with color washing detergent no faults visible, tested item must not show any visible defects and appearance must be satisfactory

4-5 4 4 3 4 4 3 3 2 3-4

pigment dyed/printed,tinted
4.1 4.2 a 4.3 a 4.3 b

to washing pigment dyed/printed to dry cleaning to rubbing, dry pigment dyed/printed to rubbing, wet pigment dyed/printed to perspiration, acid

4.4 a

pigment dyed/printed
4.4 b 4.5 a 4.6 4.7 4.11 4.14

to perspiration, alcaline

pigment dyed/printed
to water pigment dyed/printed to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test) pigment dyed/printed to artificial saliva
mini kids, up to size 110

3 3-4 3 4 3 4-5 3-4 has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast no faults visible 4

optic after washing colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label

COLOUR COMMUNICATION

5.1

max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box Verivide D65 and TL 84. No shade variation accepted within one garment. In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism.

garment to garment: DE 0,5 To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL 84, F)

5.2

*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5
valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009

page 3

Knitwear, Pullover, Cardigans

Flatknit = Wool Mixture

minumum requirement
+/- 5%

1
1.1

characteristic features CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS

weight tolerance g/m

max. 10 g/m Flatknit

+/-5 % +/-4 % 2%

2
2.1 2.3

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
shrinkage after washing shrinkage after dry cleaning

3
3.1 3.2 3.3 a 3.3 b 3.3 c

MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

spirality before washing spirality after washing pilling (500 cycles) pilling (1000 cycles) pilling (2000 cycles) open structured yarn Kashmir, Mohair, Angora 3 %; maximum 3,0 cm 2-3 2-3 2-3 1-2 1-2

3.27

appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine Siemens S 14.47 (WM 14S477)

4
4.0

40C 40C gentle 40C extra gentle 30C 30C gentle 30C extra gentle wool 30C wool cold handwash-program COLOUR FASTNESS
colour change after washing

60 min 45 min 40 min 60 min 40 min 40 min 35 min 35 min

1200 cycles after 5 times washing with color washing detergent no 800 cycles faults visible, tested item must not show any visible 600 cycles defects and appearance must be satisfactory 1200 cycles 800 cycles 600 cycles 600 cycles 600 cycles

4-5 4 4 3 4 4

pigment dyed/printed
4.1

to washing pigment dyed/printed to dry cleaning to rubbing, dry pigment dyed/printed to rubbing, wet pigment dyed/printed to perspiration, acid pigment dyed/printed to perspiration, alcaline

4.2 a 4.3 a

3 3 2 3-4 3 3-4 3 4 3 4-5

4.3 b

4.4 a

4.4 b

pigment dyed/printed
4.5 a

to water pigment dyed/printed

4.6

to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test)

pigment dyed/printed
4.7 4.11 4.14

3-4 has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast no faults visible 4

to artificial saliva
mini kids, up to size 110

optic after washing colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label

5
5.1

COLOUR COMMUNICATION
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box Verivide D65 and TL 84. No shade variation accepted within one garment.

garment to garment: DE 0,5 To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL 84, F)

5.2

In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism.

*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be

minimum 4-5

valid from 01-2007 revised 08-2009

page 4

Jackets, Downjackets, Jackets water resistant/water repellent

Woven = CO,COMix,Man Made Fibre,Man Made Fibre

minumum requirement
+/- 5%

1
1.1

characteristic features CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS

weight tolerance g/m

max. 10 gr/m Woven

+/-3 % +/-3 % +/-3 % 1% 2 %; maximum 1,5 cm 3-4 3-4 3-4

2
2.1 2.2 2.3

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
shrinkage after washing shrinkage after tumbling shrinkage after dry cleaning

3
3.1 3.2 3.3 a 3.3 b 3.3 c

MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

spirality before washing spirality after washing pilling (500 cycles) pilling (1000 cycles) pilling (2000 cycles) abrasion resistance seam slippage resistance determination of maximum force (strip method) < 220g/m > 220g/m fitted regular < 220 g/m > 220 g/m

3.5 3.6
3.7 a

10000 cycles= reduction of the weight max 4% 6 daN, fitted: 3 mm; regular: 4 mm seam opening 12 daN, fitted: 3 mm; regular: 4 mm seam opening 22 daN 20 daN 0,8 daN 1,5 daN >300 (NTU <11.0) 425-540 mm

3.7 b

tearing strength

FOR JACKETS WITH DOWNFILLER

3.9 3.10

turbidity test (10g) filling power (30g)

3.11 3.17 3.27

water column

WATER RESISTANT/ WATER REPELLENT JACKETS 1500 mm

has to withstand 5 washes in accordance to carelabel

resistance of crinkle, pleats, tacking

appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine Siemens S 14.47 (WM 14S477)

4
4.0

40C 40C gentle 40C extra gentle 30C 30C gentle 30C extra gentle wool 30C wool cold handwash-program COLOUR FASTNESS
colour change after washing

60 min 45 min 40 min 60 min 40 min 40 min 35 min 35 min

1200 cycles 800 cycles after 5 times washing with color washing detergent no faults 600 cycles visible, tested item must not show any visible defects and 1200 cycles appearance must be satisfactory 800 cycles 600 cycles 600 cycles 600 cycles

4-5 4 4 3-4 3 4 4

pigment dyed/printed
4.1

to washing peached fabric pigment dyed/printed

4.2 a 4.3 a

to dry cleaning to rubbing, dry corduroy,microfibre peached fabric, pigment dyed/printed to rubbing, wet corduroy,microfibre

3-4 3 3 2-3

4.3 b

peached fabric, pigment dyed/printed

4.4 a

2 3-4 3 3-4 3 4 3-4 3 4-5 3-4 has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast no faults visible 4-5 4

to perspiration, acid

peached fabric, pigment dyed/printed to perspiration, alcaline peached fabric, pigment dyed/printed 4.5 a to water
4.4 b

peached fabrics pigment dyed/printed

4.6 4.7

to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test) pigment dyed/printed to artificial saliva (mini kids, up to size 110)

4.11 4.12 4.14

optic after washing phenolic yellowing colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label

COLOUR COMMUNICATION
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box Verivide D65 and TL 84. No shade variation accepted within one garment. In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism.

5.1

garment to garment: DE 0,5

To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL 84, F)

5.2

*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5

page 5

Jackets, Trousers, Skirts

Woven = WO, Man Made Fibre, Other Protein Fibres

minumum requirement
+/- 5%

1
1.1

characteristic features CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS

weight tolerance g/m

max. 10 gr/m Woven

+/-3 % +/-3 % 1% 2 %; maximum 1,5 cm 3-4 3-4 3-4

2
2.1 2.3

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
shrinkage after washing shrinkage after dry cleaning

3
3.1 3.2 3.3 a 3.3 b 3.3 c

MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

spirality before washing spirality after washing pilling (500 cycles) pilling (1000 cycles) pilling (2000 cycles) Mohair, Angora,Kashmir Merino Silk

after 2000 rubs after 2000 rubs after 2000 rubs

< 220g/m > 220g/m regular fitted < 220 g/m > 220 g/m length width

1-2 2-3 3 6 daN, fitted: 3 mm; regular: 4 mm seam opening 12 daN, fitted: 3 mm; regular: 4 mm seam opening 20 daN 22 daN 0,8 daN 1,5 daN max. 2% max. 5%

3.6 3.7 a

seam slippage resistance determination of maximum force (strip method)

3.7 b

tearing strength
permanent tensile

3.8

3.27

appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine Siemens S 14.47 (WM 14S477)

4
4.0

40C 40C gentle 40C extra gentle 30C 30C gentle 30C extra gentle wool 30C wool cold handwashprogramm COLOUR FASTNESS
colour change after washing

60 min 45 min 40 min 60 min 40 min 40 min 35 min 35 min

1200 cycles 800 cycles after 5 times washing with color washing detergent no 600 cycles faults visible, tested item must not show any visible defects and appearance must be satisfactory 1200 cycles 800 cycles 600 cycles 600 cycles 600 cycles

4-5 4 4 3-4 3 4 4

pigment dyed/printed
4.1

to washing peached fabrics pigment dyed/printed

4.2 a 4.3 a

to dry cleaning rubbing, dry peached fabric,pigment dyed/printed

3 3-4

microfibre

4.3 b

rubbing, wet peached fabric,pigment dyed/printed

microfibre
4.4 a 4.4 b

to perspiration, acid peached fabric,pigment dyed/printed to perspiration, alcaline peached fabric,pigment dyed/printed

2 2-3 3-4 3 3-4 3 4

4.5 a

to water peached fabrics pigment dyed/printed

4.6 4.7 4.11 4.14

to light pigment dyed/printed to artificial saliva

mini kids, up to size 110

3-4 3 4-5 3-4 has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast no faults visible 4

optic after washing colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label

5
5.1

COLOUR COMMUNICATION
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box Verivide D65 and TL 84. No shade variation accepted within one garment. In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism. garment to garment: DE 0,5 To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL 84, F)

5.2

*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5
**requirements for lining see page 6
valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009

page 6

Jackets, Trousers, Skirts, Accessories

Leather

1
1.2

characteristic features CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS

determination of thickness (mm)

minumum requirement
has to meet the requirement +/20% regular: 20 daN fitted: 25 daN 12 N/mm 30 N/mm > 50.000 2,5 N/ 10mm

3
3.12 3.13 3.14 3.15 3.16

MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

determination of tensile strength and percentage extension (strip method) determination of tear load - single edge tear determination of stitch tear resistance determination of flex resistance by flexometer test for adhesion of finish

4
4.1 4.2 b

COLOUR FASTNESS
to washing to dry cleaning (depends on care instruction) 3-4 3-4

4.3 4.3 c 4.3 d 4.3 e 4.3 c 4.3 d 4.3 e 4.3 c 4.3 d 4.3 e 4.4 c 4.5 b 4.6

to rubbing Napaleather finishing rubbing dry = 50 cycles rubbing wet = 20 cycles rubbing perspiration = 20 cycles

optic after testing: leather may not show any damages to the surface
3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3-4 3-4 4 3 Has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast 4-5 Must dry without staining with waterdrops after wetting

rubbing dry = 20 cycles rubbing wet = 10 cycles rubbing perspiration = 10 cycles lamb velour rubbing dry = 20 cycles rubbing wet = 10 cycles rubbing perspiration = 10 cycles to perspiration (for garment without lining) to water to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test) Napa leather finishing napa, aniline, velour, nubuk to artificial saliva
mini kids, up to size 110

Napa, Aniline, Velour, Nubuk

4.7

4.10

to water spotting

5
5.1

COLOUR COMMUNICATION
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under garment e.g. chest to sleeve: light box Verivide D65 and TL 84. DE 0,8 No shade variation accepted within one garment. In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism. To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL 84, F)

5.2

*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5
valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009

page 7

Jackets, Trousers, Skirts, Tops

Woven = Indigo + Sulfur dyed garments

minumum requirement
+/- 5% max. 10 gr/m

1
1.1

characteristic features CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS

weight tolerance g/m

2
2.1

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
shrinkage after washing

Woven
+/-3 % 2% 3 %; maximum 1,5 cm maximum 3,0 cm 20.000 Touren FOR JEANS WITH HEAVY TREATMENTS

3
3.1 3.2 3.5 3.7 a 3.7 b

MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

spirality before washing spirality after washing abrasion resistance determination of maximum force (strip method)

fitted regular

3.5 3.8 3.17 3.27

< 220 g/m > 220 g/m FOR CORDUROY / VELVET GARMENTS trousers,shirts, dresses abrasion resistance 10000 cycles= reduction of the weight max 4% enzyme stone washed trousers 10000 cycles= reduction of the weight max 8% length permanent tensile max. 2% width max. 5% resistance of crinkle, pleats, tacking has to withstand 5 washes in accordance to carelabel appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine

tearing strength

22 daN 20 daN 0,8 daN 1,5 daN

4
4.0 4.1 4.3 a 4.3 b 4.4 a 4.4 b 4.5 a 4.6

40C 40C gentle 40C extra gentle 30C 30C gentle 30C extra gentle wool 30C wool cold handwashprogram COLOUR FASTNESS

60 min 45 min 40 min 60 min 40 min 40 min 35 min 35 min

1200 cycles 800 cycles 600 cycles after 5 times washing with color washing detergent no faults visible, tested item must not show any visible 1200 cycles defects and appearance must be satisfactory 800 cycles 600 cycles 600 cycles 600 cycles
4-5 4 4 4 3 2 3-4 3 3-4 3 4 3 4-5 3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4

colour change after washing

pigment dyed/printed,tinted
to washing to rubbing, dry rinse wash,tinted,pigment dyed/printed to rubbing, wet to perspiration, acid rinse wash,tinted,pigment dyed/printed to perspiration, alcaline rinse wash,tinted,pigment dyed/printed to water rinse wash,tinted,pigment dyed/printed to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test) acid wash peached fabrics enzyme wash stone wash bleached treatment

sandblasted pigment dyed/printed tinted

4.7 4.11 4.14

3-4 3-4 3-4 has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast no faults visible 4

to artificial saliva mini kids, up to size 110 optic after washing colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label

5
5.1

COLOUR COMMUNICATION
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box Verivide D65 and TL 84. No shade variation accepted within one garment. garment to garment: DE 0,5

5.2

To avoid metamerism different materials have to be In case different materials of the same shade are used in one matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL garment it is necessary to determine metamerism. 84, F) *for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5

valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009

page 8

Lining

Woven, Circularknit = for all compositions

minumum requirement
+/- 5% max. 10 gr/m

1
1.1

characteristic features CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS

weight tolerance g/m

2
2.1 2.3

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
shrinkage after washing shrinkage after dry cleaning

Woven
+/-3 % +/-3 % 1% 2% maximum 1,5 cm 3-4 3-4 3-4 < 220 g/m > 220g/m

Circularknit
+/-5 % +/-4 % 2% 3% maximum 3,0 cm 2-3 2-3 2-3

3
3.1 3.2 3.3 a 3.3 b 3.3 c 3.6

MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

spirality before washing spirality after washing pilling (500 cycles) pilling (1000 cycles) pilling (2000 cycles) seam slippage resistance determination of maximum force (strip method) fitted regular 22 daN 18 daN 0,8 daN 1,5 daN max. 2% max. 5%

6 daN, fitted: 3 mm; regular: 4 mm seam opening 12 daN, fitted: 3 mm; regular: 4 mm seam opening

3.7

3.7 b 3.8 3.27

< 220 g/m > 220 g/m length permanent tensile width appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine Siemens S 14.47 (WM 14S477)

tearing strength

40C 40C gentle 40C extra gentle 30C 30C gentle 30C extra gentle wool 30C wool cold handwashprogram COLOUR FASTNESS
colour change after washing

60 min 45 min 40 min 60 min 40 min 40 min 35 min 35 min

1200 cycles 800 cycles after 5 times washing no faults visible, 600 cycles tested item must not show any visible defects and 1200 cycles appearance must be satisfactory 800 cycles 600 cycles 600 cycles 600 cycles

4
4.0

4-5 4 4 3-4 4 4 3 3 2 3-4

pigment dyed/printed
4.1 4.2 a 4.3 a 4.3 b

to washing

pigment dyed/printed
to dry cleaning rubbing, dry

pigment dyed/printed
rubbing, wet

pigment dyed/printed
4.4 a

to perspiration, acid pigment dyed/printed

4.4 b

to perspiration, alcaline pigment dyed/printed

3-4 3 4 3 4-5 has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast no faults visible 4

4.5 a

to water pigment dyed/printed

4.6 4.7

to light to artificial saliva

mini kids, up to size 110

4.11 4.14

optic after washing colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label

5
5.1

COLOUR COMMUNICATION
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box Verivide D65 and TL 84. No shade variation accepted within one garment. garment to garment: DE 0,5

5.2

In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism.

To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL 84, F)

*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5
valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009

page 9

Shirt,Blouses,Tops, Trousers,Dresses,Sk irts

Woven = CO, CO-Mix, Silk, Linen

minumum requirement
+/- 5%

1
1.1

characteristic features CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS

weight tolerance g/m

max. 10 gr/m Woven

+/-3 % +/-3 % 1% 2% maximum 1,5 cm 3-4 3-4 3-4 3

2
2.1 2.3

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
shrinkage after washing shrinkage after dry cleaning

3
3.1 3.2 3.3 a 3.3 b 3.3 c 3.6

MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

spirality before washing spirality after washing pilling (500 cycles) pilling (1000 cycles) pilling (2000 cycles) silk seam slippage resistance determination of maximum force (strip method) after 2000 rubs < 220g/m > 220 g/m regular fitted < 220 g/m > 220 g/m length width FOR LINEN GARMENTS

6 daN, fitted: 3 mm; regular: 4 mm seam opening 12 daN, fitted: 3 mm; regular: 4 mm seam opening 18 daN 22 daN 0,8 daN 1,5 daN max. 2% max. 5% max. 2% max. 10%

3.7 a

3.7 b

tearing strength
permanent tensile

3.8

3.8

permanent tensile

length width

3.17 3.27

resistance of crinkle, pleats, tacking has to withstand 5 washes in accordance to carelabel appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine Siemens S 14.47 (WM 14S477)

40C 40C gentle 40C extra gentle 30C 30C gentle 30C extra gentle wool 30C wool cold handwashprogram COLOUR FASTNESS

60 min 45 min 40 min 60 min 40 min 40 min 35 min 35 min

1200 cycles 800 cycles after 5 times washing no faults visible, tested item must not show any 600 cycles visible defects and appearance must be satisfactory 1200 cycles 800 cycles 600 cycles 600 cycles 600 cycles
4-5 4 4 3-4 3 4 4

4
4.0 4.1

colour change after washing pigment dyed/printed to washing

peached fabrics
batik/dip dyed, silk,pigment dyed/printed
4.2 a 4.3 a

to dry cleaning rubbing, dry silk

peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed

4.3 b

rubbing, wet

silk peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed

3-4 3 3 2-3 2

4.4 a

to perspiration, acid peached fabrics,silk,pigment dyed/printed

3-4 3 3-4 3 4 3-4 3 4-5 3-4 has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast 4-5 no faults visible 4

4.4 b

to perspiration, alcaline peached fabrics,silk,pigment dyed/printed

4.5 a

to water peached fabrics pigment dyed/printed,batik/dip dyed,silk to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test) pigment dyed/printed to artificial saliva
mini kids, up to size 110 phenolic yellowing

4.6 4.7 4.12 4.11 4.14

optic after washing colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label

5
5.1

COLOUR COMMUNICATION
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box Verivide D65 and TL 84. No shade variation accepted within one garment. In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism.

garment to garment: DE 0,5 To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL 84, F)

5.2

*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5

valid from 01-2007-revised 08-2009

page 10

Sweatshirt, Sweatjacket, Sportswear

Circularknit = CO, CO-Mix

minumum requirement
+/- 5%

1
1.1

characteristic features CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS

weight tolerance g/m

2
2.1

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
shrinkage after washing

max. 10 gr/m Circularknit

+/-5 % 2%

3
3.1 3.2 3.3 a 3.3 b 3.3 c

MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

spirality before washing spirality after washing pilling (500 cycles) pilling (1000 cycles) pilling (2000 cycles) FOR FELPA BRUSHED fuzzing before washing fuzzing after washing appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine Siemens S 14.47 (WM 14S477) 3 % max. 3,0 cm 2-3 2-3 2-3 2 1

3.4 a 3.4 b 3.27

40C 40C gentle 40C extra gentle 30C 30C gentle 30C extra gentle wool 30C 4
4.0

60 min 1200 cycles 45 min 800 cycles 40 min 600 cycles 60 min 1200 cycles 40 min 800 cycles 40 min 600 cycles 35 min 600 cycles 35 min 600 cycles

after 5 times washing with color washing detergent no faults visible, tested item must not show any visible defects and appearance must be satisfactory

wool cold handwash-program COLOUR FASTNESS

colour change after washing

4-5 pigment dyed/printed 4 4 peached fabrics batik&dip dyed,pigment dyed/printed 3-4 3 4 peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed 3 3 peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed 2 3-4 peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed 3 3-4 3 4 3-4 3 4-5 3-4 has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast

4.1

to washing

4.3 a

rubbing, dry rubbing, wet to perspiration, acid to perspiration, alcaline peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed to water peached fabrics batik & dip dyed,pigment dyed/printed

4.3 b

4.4 a

4.4 b

4.5 a

4.6 4.7

to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test) pigment dyed/printed, heavy gmt washed to artificial saliva
mini kids, up to size 110

4.11 4.14

optic after washing colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label

no faults visible 4

5
5.1

COLOUR COMMUNICATION
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box Verivide D65 and TL 84. No shade variation accepted within one garment. In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism. garment to garment: DE 0,5 To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL 84, F)

5.2

*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5

valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009

page 11

T- Shirts, Blouses

Circularknit = CO, CO-Mix, regenerated

minumum requirement
+/- 5%

1
1.1

characteristic features CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS

weight tolerance g/m

2
2.1 2.3

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
shrinkage after washing shrinkage after dry cleaning

max. 10 gr/m Circularknit

+/-5 % +/-4 %

3
3.1 3.2 3.3 a 3.3 b 3.3 c 3.27

MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

spirality before washing spirality after washing pilling (500 cycles) pilling (1000 cycles) pilling (2000 cycles) up to 120 g/m > 120g/m up to 120 g/m > 120g/m up to 120 g/m > 120g/m up to 120 g/m >120g/m up to 120 g/m > 120g/m 3% 2% 5%, max. 4cm 3%, max. 3cm 2 2-3 2 2-3 2 2-3

appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine Siemens S 14.47 (WM 14S477)

4
4.0 4.1

40C 40C gentle 40C extra gentle 30C 30C gentle 30C extra gentle wool 30C wool cold handwash-program COLOUR FASTNESS
colour change after washing

60 min 45 min 40 min 60 min 40 min 40 min 35 min 35 min

1200 cycles after 5 times washing with color washing 800 cycles detergent no faults visible, 600 cycles tested item must not show any visible defects and appearance must be 1200 cycles satisfactory 800 cycles 600 cycles 600 cycles 600 cycles
4-5 4 4 3-4 3 4 3 3 2 3-4 3 3-4 3 4 3-4 3 4-5 3-4 has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast

pigment dyed/printed to washing peached fabrics batik & dip dyed,pigment dyed/printed
4.3 a 4.3 b

rubbing, dry

peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed

rubbing, wet peached fabrics,pigment dyed/printed
4.4 a

to perspiration, acid peached fabrics,batik & dip dyed, pigment dyed/printed to perspiration, alcaline peached fabrics,batik & dip dyed, pigment dyed/printed to water peached fabrics batik & dip dyed,pigment dyed/printed to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test) pigment dyed/printed,heavy gmt washed to artificial saliva
mini kids, up to size 110

4.4 b

4.5 a

4.6 4.7

4.11 4.14

optic after washing colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label

no faults visible 4

5
5.1

COLOUR COMMUNICATION
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box Verivide D65 and TL 84. No shade variation accepted within one garment. In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism. garment to garment: DE 0,5 To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL 84, F)

5.2

*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5

valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009

page 12

Beachwear

Woven, Circularknit = for all compositions

minumum requirement
+/- 5% max. 10 gr/m

1
1.1

characteristic features CONSTRUCTION CHARACTERISTICS

weight tolerance g/m

2
2.1

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
shrinkage after washing

Woven
+/-3 % 1% 2 % maximum 1,5 cm 3-4 3-4 3-4 < 220g/m > 220g/m

Circularknit
+/-5 % 2% 3 % maximum 3,0 cm 2-3 2-3 2-3

3
3.1 3.2

MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

spirality before washing

spirality after washing pilling (500 cycles) 3.3 b pilling (1000 cycles) 3.3 c pilling (2000 cycles)
3.3 a 3.6 3.7 3.27

seam slippage resistance determination of maximum force (strip method)

6 daN, fitted: 3 mm; regular: 4 mm seam opening 12 daN, fitted: 3 mm; regular: 4 mm seam opening 18 daN 22 daN

regular fitted appearance after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label with below mentioned parameters which based on washing machine Siemens S 14.47 (WM 14S477)

40C 40C gentle 40C extra gentle 30C 30C gentle 30C extra gentle wool 30C 4
4.0

60 min 1200 cycles 45 min 800 cycles after 5 times washing with color washing detergent no 40 min 600 cycles faults visible, tested item must not show any visible defects and appearance must be satisfactory 60 min 1200 cycles 40 min 800 cycles 40 min 35 min 35 min 600 cycles 600 cycles 600 cycles
4-5 pigment dyed/printed 4 4 peached fabrics pigment dyed/printed 3-4 3 4 pigment dyed/printed 3 3 peached fabrics pigment dyed/printed 2 2 3-4 3-4 4 peached fabrics 3-4 3 5 has to meet requirements, the colour has to be fast 4

wool cold handwash-program COLOUR FASTNESS

colour change after washing to washing

4.1

4.3 a

rubbing, dry rubbing, wet

4.3 b

4.4 a 4.4 b 4.5 a

to perspiration, acid to perspiration, alcaline to water pigment dyed/printed to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test) to artificial saliva
mini kids, up to size 110

4.6 4.7 4.8

to seawater

4.9 4.11 4.14

to chlorine water optic after washing colour change after washing for all kind of prints, embroideries, studs, sequins etc. in accordance to care label

4 no faults visible 4

5
5.1

COLOUR COMMUNICATION
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box Verivide D65 and TL 84. No shade variation accepted within one garment. garment to garment: DE 0,5

5.2

To avoid metamerism different materials have to be In case different materials of the same shade are used in one matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL garment it is necessary to determine metamerism. 84, F)

*for contrast coloured article the colour fastness concerning bleeding has to be minimum 4-5

valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009

page 13

all productgroups

Woven, Circularknit, Flatknit

minumum requirement

3
3.18

characteristic features MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

burning behaviour of clothing All fabrics which do NOT meet these two (point a+b) caracteristics has to be tested by ASTM D 1230: a) fabrics with a smooth (not roughened) surface/face side with a mass (weight per m) of more than 88 grams, regardless of the type of fibres it is made of. b) All fabrics (both smooth and roughened face side and regardless of the weight per m) if entirely made of one of the following fibres or combination of these fibres: acrylic, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester and wool.

at 1 second of flame contact time, the flame spread over 127mm may not be shorter than 4 seconds.

valid from 01-2007 - revised 08-2009

page 14
3
3.12 3.13 3.14 3.15 3.16 3.22 3.24

Shoes

Leather

MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

determination of tensile strength and percentage determination of tear load - single edge tear determination of stitch tear resistance determination of flex resistance by flexometer test for adhesion of finish floor marking of outsole determination of flex resistance upper material upper material:

split velour: 150 N light leather: 80N upper material: 25N/mm lining: 15N/mm min. 50 N

dry 50.000 cycles wet 10.000 cycles

2,5 N/ 10mm 4

coated leather: patent leather:

150.000 cycles up to micro cracks 20.000 cycles up to micro cracks

150 N >500N 4

3.25 3.26 3.27

pull out strength for buckles and straps heel attachment floor marking of outsole

4
4.3 4.3 f 4.3 g

COLOUR FASTNESS
to rubbing upper leather

optic after testing: leather may not show any damages to the surface
4 3 3 2-3 3-4 3-4

rubbing dry = 100 cycles rubbing wet = 50 cycles leather lining rubbing dry = 100 cycles 4.3 f 4.3 g rubbing wet = 50 cycles 4.4 c to perspiration leather lining pH 8 = 20 4.5 b to water

4.6 4.10 4.13

to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test) to water spotting to shoe polish/care product

3-4 4-5 Must dry without staining with waterdrops after wetting Only for smooth leather. No damage of the surface

rubbing= 10 cycles 5
5.1

COLOUR COMMUNICATION
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To be checked under light box Verivide D65 and TL 84. In case different materials of the same shade are used in one garment it is necessary to determine metamerism. No visible shade variation accepted within pairs (shoe to shoe) To avoid metamerism different materials have to be matched under different colour matching lamps (D65, TL 84, F)

5.2

valid from 01-2009 - revised 08-2009

page 15

Shoes

All other components

minumum requirement for heel lining: marginal change after 51.200 cycles, no formation of holes marginal change after 12.800 cycles, no formation of holes < 10 mm
shoes: cap > 300N bale > 200 N pump: cap >200 N bale > 100 angle acceptance N dry: >/= 15 4 >3,0 N/mm synthetic material, 150.000 cycles up to artifical leather: micro cracks rubber boot

characteristic features MECHANICAL AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

3.5

abrasion resistance

dry for heel lining: wet

3.19

determination of flex resistance for outsoles

30.000 cycles
3.20 3.21 3.22 3.23 3.24

upper sole adhesion slip resistance floor marking of outsole tear strength for outsole at bootleg determination of flex resistance upper material

125.000 cycles up to micro cracks

> 150N > 500N

3.25 3.26

4
4.3 4.3 a 4.3 b 4.4 c 4.5 b 4.6

pull out strength for buckles and straps heel attachment COLOUR FASTNESS to rubbing textile lining rubbing dry =100 cycles
rubbing wet = 50 cycles to perspiration to water to light (Xenon arc fading lamp test)

4 2-3 3-4 3-4 3-4

5
5.1

COLOUR COMMUNICATION
max. total colour difference depends on the shade. To No visible shade variation accepted within pairs be checked under light box Verivide D65 and TL (shoe to shoe) 84. Nocase different materials of within one garment. used In shade variation accepted the same shade are To avoid metamerism different materials have in one garment it is necessary to determine to be matched under different colour matching metamerism. lamps (D65, TL 84, F)

5.2

valid from 01-2009 - revised 08-2009