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Step 6: Prep the parts for SMD mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Step 7: Make a PCB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Step 8: Populate the PCB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Step 9: Paint and Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
2* 150 ohm resistor (all resistors used were standard 1/4 watt radio shack variety) 2* 470k ohm resistor 2* 33k ohm resistor 4* 10k ohm resistor 2* 0.1uf capacitor 2* infrared LED 2* infrared photo-transistors The following came from the original design of the mouse, and you need to see what your mouse would need (though I doubt it would be much different) 2* 330 ohm resistor 1* 1uf capacitor 1* "mouse chip" (mine was marked with house numbers) 1* "mystery cap" (I think its a capacitor the code on it comes up to 24 picofarad, though it also has WS printed on it which is odd) Tools: The usual hacking stuff ... though I used a few power tools at work, you don't have to but its so much faster and easier Soldering iron and usual soldering accessories Wire cutters, needle nose pliers (I have this craftsman set, though mine are older) Flathead screw driver Screw driver or hex wrench to take your VCR head apart (mine used hex head screws) Hammer Hacksaw Bandsaw Hole saw Belt sander (actually the right angle disk sander on the side) Drill and bits Sandpaper and abrasive pads Files Latex gloves PCB Enchant (and in my case a old pickle jar) Digital Calipers (are a huge plus, though a ruler would work) Pencil / Paper Hobby Knife / scalpel / Xacto (and a box cutter / utility knife if you want) Rubbing alcohol Multimeter (and an oscilloscope is nice but not necessary, I use this sub 20$ craftsman meter) A new Sharpie or similar permanent marker with a "fine point"
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
Step 5: Breadboarding
Breadboarding is an important step for a few reasons. Make sure I understand the circuit Figure out the minimum hook requirements of the house branded (and therefore no datasheet) mouse chip And to figure out how the ir part of this is going to function First off the mouse chip is not on the same pin spacing as the breadboard, and the SOIC 8 chip is no where close, so to deal with that I used wirewrap! The larger of the 2 chips I just wirewraped to the legs of the IC, and then to a couple of pin headers, the SOIC chip I had to solder the wirewrap wire to its leads and then wrapped them to another set of pin headers. It took a little extra time but problem solved. Next I hooked up the mouse chip with just an mechanical encoder to see how much stuff I could leave out from the design notes from the mouse, it ended up saving me 2 fairly large (in this amount of space) electrolytic capacitors. Then I hooked up one of the IR LED's and a photo-transistor to see how that all worked and how to optimize the signal as being reflected. I had to black out the clear sides of the photo-transistor, as the IR led was going to be sitting right next to the thing and though it worked before, it was much more responsive with only the top being exposed. On a side tangent, stupid radio shack! on the back of the IR led / photo-transistor it states the max continuous current of the led was 150ma! no way! On their website it states 40ma which is much more in line from other parts with the same spec's, I ended up driving them at 30ma just cause I happen to find 150 ohm resistors first in my parts bin. Next the LM393 is a dual voltage comparator, you give it a reference voltage (in this case 2.5 volts though a resistor divider) and anything above that voltage is a logic high (in this case 5 volts) and anything below it is a logic low (darn near 0 in this case) You need the comparator because the photo-transistor never hits below about 1.4 volts due to reflection of light + ambient light + printer ink does not absorb 100% of the IR light hitting it. It also never goes above about 3.4 volts due to similar issues + the resistor needed on the collector side of it to get the thing working. Also the photo transistor is acting more like an amplifier than a switch. With fairly erratic output that shows up on a scope as a squiggly line at all sorts of voltages between the 2 extremes (so much so I could never get my scope to store an image of it), versus the square signal needed by the mouse chip. Simply put we need something to make the "yes this is on or no this is off" decision and the 393 is specifically built for the task
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
Finally with a working model on the bread board I drew up a "proper" schematic (full size image here) edit: I just noticed on the schematic I labeled the decoupling capacitors as 0.01 uf, it should be 0.1 uf, it is correct on the side list of parts, my bad!
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
Image Notes 1. I thought I was going to use this 1uf capacitor, but it ended up being too large and used one from the mouse
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
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Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 52 comments
skaar says:
Feb 15, 2011. 12:30 PM REPLY it may have been easier to use a protractor than a printer, mask the paper with some blue masking tape, score the paper when cutting the blacks out, and just use some gel ink. there's even space for thick card stock.
skaar says:
looks like a torx... perhaps something else to invest in...
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
pfred2 says:
Dec 21, 2010. 6:23 PM REPLY I noticed you had some etching issues with your project. I have at times myself so I've developed a process that assures better results. Two things I have found that make etching come out a LOT better with Radio Shack Ferric Chloride are: 1. Heat that etchant up! I find somewhere around 100F makes the etchant work the way you think it should. I use a hot water bath around the etch tank. 2. Agitate the etchant with atomized air. I rigged up an aerosol agitator using an old areosol spray head salvaged off a dead spray paint can connected to tubing that I attached to a schrader tire valve plugged into one of those junky little 12 volt tire inflator compressors. This is better than rocking the tank because it introduces oxygen into the tank and aids the etching process. It may sound difficult but really it isn't it is totally worth doing. Of course you have to brighten the copper cladding before you mask it off. But do all of this and you should enjoy perfect etches in about 2 minutes. Which sure beats playing rock the tank for 20+ minutes and getting ragged undercut traces that need sloppy repairs. Try it you'll like it. Pretty (well my PNP mask smeared some I suck at ironing): http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/7408/p1010001cq.jpg Etch tank and compressed air supply (before I switched to the 12V) http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/7184/etch1.jpg Another board: http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/5069/cleanresist1.jpg I got sick and tired of ferric chloride myself now I want to try out muratic acid and hydrogen peroxide. Supposedly it is a self regenerating etchant, as in copper added doesn't saturate the solution. Though I hear dumping some sulfuric acid into ferric chloride can rejuvenate it sometimes. I've never tried it myself. Anyhow I hope you try out my suggestions. It really works!
darthmullet says:
an aquarium pump (<$20) does the trick rather well, too.
pfred2 says:
Jan 29, 2011. 5:10 AM REPLY A fish tank pump is the obvious choice to use for this process but in practice they are usually harder to come by and more expensive when you do. But if you happen to have one lying around use it and post back your results. Dec 26, 2010. 10:25 PM REPLY
osgeld says:
1) I did boil water and let the jar of enchant heat up for about 10 min, though I have no idea of its exact temp 2) I dont have the equipment to do the atomized are, though I did swirl it
I did brighten the clad up with scowering pads of fine grit, and cleaned with alcohol, and it only took about 10 min in a pickle jar swirling it around + keep in mind I did not use a transfer method, the only tiny 2mm spot that had a mishap was where there was a thin coat of marker, overall I think it turned out quite well for a marker
pfred2 says:
Dec 28, 2010. 10:41 PM REPLY I've measured my etchant temperature and the acid seems to begin fuming at around 110F. At that temp it is aggressive enough. Well that is why I left the comment. because I've swirled too and it is for the birds compared to pumping some air into the tank. Getting the equipment isn't hard, you would be better off with a bicycle pump than swirling. But shoot for an actual $6 12V tire inflator I mean splurge! OK I just looked seems like the cheap pumps run about $10 online I'm sure you can find one at a garage sale for a buck. Or ask around most men have 3 in the basement they never use. Theoretically the best material to use to brighten copper clad prior to etch masking is Scotch Brite but I use plain old steel wool (plain as in no soap) myself then wipe with a clean dry soft rag. I suppose sandpaper would be OK too. I consider any etch that takes longer than 5 minutes to be problematic. I've cooked boards in under 2 minutes but I use air. And it isn't about the time it is about detail retention, but time is the simplest measure of etch technique success. I used to do the exact same hand drawing method prior to the advent of personal computers and the widespread availability of free CAD software for PCB design. I wouldn't want to go back today. I use CAD for all my board layouts now, even ones I point to point wire up. http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/9816/tb6560boardb.jpg Etching a board wouldn't have helped much: http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/2833/tb6560ahqacr.png It works well: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgbeyNNBZ68 Even with perfboard: http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/4185/ppbbpic1.jpg Worth doing. http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/567/ppbbr4brdr.png
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
socaldt says:
invest in a dremel? i wonder why those screws won't loosen up for you. i've taken vcr heads apart before. cool idea though.
adrian.robb says:
Mint ! :D
osgeld says:
thanks
pfred2 says:
How come you said you could never find a datasheet for the IC? http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/333277/PIXART/PAW3502.html Years of practice multiplied by massive amounts of dumb luck!
osgeld says:
Dec 26, 2010. 10:27 PM REPLY good question, maybe I was impatient, but I just did not find the datasheet online, thanks for the heads up though, it makes it easier!
jefersonrod says:
Wow man, that's a real nice job, congratulations.
osgeld says:
Thanks!
VadimS says:
This is sweet, I built one similar a couple years ago, but it was ps/2 so it's stuck in a box somewheres. :)
osgeld says:
thanks, and maybe you should convert it =)
VadimS says:
Nov 26, 2010. 1:55 PM REPLY My new mouse actually has something similar. Logitech g500. There is a button just behind the scroll wheel to go from clicking to free wheel. Works nicely on 100+ page PDFs. Not as much mass but with a good flick it'll spin for 10+ seconds. For similar ideas this is where I got the info before: http://tinylittlelife.org/?p=122
ifreecarve says:
I'm flattered that someone remembers my work ! (tinylittlelife.org is me).
This hack looks way nicer than what I put together... I just used the mouse electronics and hardware directly, so the result was really a mess of wires and awkward structure. At the time, I was sad that a lot of people didn't go out and make their own scroll wheels out of VCR heads... but seeing this project makes me appreciate the quality vs the quantity. Nice job!
osgeld says:
Dec 9, 2010. 8:01 PM REPLY yes I did see yours while looking around, and almost integrated the buttons as well, though I have to admit yours is one of the nicest looking ones of the bunch
bossier330 says:
This is amazing. I'm definitely making one over break.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
Dec 6, 2010. 10:42 AM REPLY I don't have the knowledge to do it, but I wonder if this idea could be taken a step further to allow for up/down on the axis. This would make it into a device similar to the Griffin Powermate.
osgeld says:
Dec 7, 2010. 10:28 AM REPLY maybe, I have never seen a powermate up close to know all of what it does, though it seems to do a bunch of it with keyboard mappings (if im not mistaken) , which would not be that difficult to replicate using a microcontroller
jrcgarry says:
Dec 4, 2010. 11:36 AM REPLY Rather than using a printed optical pattern, you may find that a modern optical mouse is able to detect the motion of the stainless steel surface directly. I had a similar problem to solve many years ago: detect motion of a stainless steel shaft *in vacuum* with a minimum of changes to the shaft. A modern optical mouse, out of the box, a light sanding of the steel, and the job was done. I can send details if needed.
osgeld says:
using the optical sensor though would have output XY data and not wheel data
jrcgarry says:
Correct - but all optical mice I've used generate quadrature datastreams http://www.teleic.com/PDF/OM02-Spec040210.pdf ... just like a pair of encoders on a scroll wheel. You need to find the pins (X1,X2; Y1,Y2 in the above). Then, find how the IR wheel encoders are piped into a PS2/USB controller of some sort. Snip the wheel encoders' tracks, and wire in the X or Y lines from the optics chip.
osgeld says:
Dec 4, 2010. 1:01 PM REPLY see that's the issue with most brand spankin new mouses, its all packaged in to 1 chip, that was the case with this one there was only the one chip I actually looked at 4 mouses, my GE optical, my Microsoft optical and some crap keytronix or something at work were all like that, and all were bought within the last year or so my ~5 year old dynex had 2 chips in it, but it is a 5 button mouse and the controller chip was a dip 20 and I could not visualize how to get that joker inside the vcr head
osgeld says:
and yes please do post it up, I like seeing other peoples work :)
throbscottle says:
Nov 29, 2010. 4:35 AM REPLY Those "odd star shaped screws" - they look like Torx! Number of vcr's I pulled to bits over the years and haven't got a single part of any of them - wish I had then I could make this. Cool project.
osgeld says:
Nov 29, 2010. 9:23 PM REPLY they do look like that though I have a limited supply of funny screwdrivers, and as per most of my projects you really don't have to treat things with kid gloves If I did it might not have a couple pits on the top metal (which were caused by a bench vice while banging these things out to saw off0 , but I would probably would still be working on it right now, and 1000X more devastated when I got a scratch on it It just goes with "mostly hand made" I guess
throbscottle says:
Nov 29, 2010. 4:48 AM REPLY You can get things way smaller with standard resistors if you cut the leads right off, clean the paint of the end caps and solder the end caps. I built a transmitter in a wrist watch case this way in nineteen eighty something....
osgeld says:
Nov 29, 2010. 9:17 PM REPLY that is a excellent idea, I would say I was too lazy to sand .. but I spend 3 hours sanding down that super tough polyester resin lol It just never occured to me, and that would make great SMD resistors in a pinch though thanks to eyeballing angles I did not have much trouble stuffing them all in there, the weirdest solder joint is on one of the led's where "not the greatest" planning left a odd 3d s-bend in one of the cathodes but hey I dont think it was too bad for eyeball being the only funky bend :)
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
Nov 28, 2010. 2:13 AM REPLY Actually, those loops on the inside are not for spinning the head, they convey data. the motor would have originally been on the bottom. (standard brushless type, 12 coils, like an out-runner.)
osgeld says:
on this one there was no motor attached, nor belts or anything on this security model it only had 1 head for read 1 for write with 4 loops read write ??? and common maybe I dunno I am not a motor expert
handylaboratory says:
Nov 28, 2010. 5:27 PM REPLY Regarding the pixelated output of the encoder wheel program, why not just specify a much larger internal radius and width of band, then use GIMP to shrink the resulting image. This should remove the offending noise around the edges.
osgeld says:
Nov 28, 2010. 9:41 PM REPLY cause I don't have a printer that doesn't suck at home, and while I thought of doing something similar to get it AA, in the end it just seemed simpler to outline what I had already printed, rather than fiddle fart with the measurements again, email it to myself, print it at work (which you see are not the worlds greatest printers, but still better than my 1 good sale away from being recycled inkjet) yadda yadda etc
rusty0101 says:
Nov 28, 2010. 2:23 PM REPLY An alternative to a drop of solder to cover gaps in traces after etching, you may be able to find a silver pen at Radio Shack that lays down silver in a paint to fill in the gap. You may even find it in coper rather than silver. It's not a surface you can solder onto very well, but to bridge a gap it won't leave a bead of solder on top of your board. Like the Instructable overall. I edit just enough video and audio that I'm seriously thinking about making one of these. Thank you!
osgeld says:
Nov 28, 2010. 4:19 PM REPLY Yea I was lucky my local (40 min drive round trip) radio shack had the ir parts and a bottle of enchant lol, but that is a good tip and as small as this gap was the resistance of such stuff would not be a big deal (on top of the comparator) Thanks and good luck if you give it a go!
alanstarkie says:
Looks like the job for final cut pro - I might have a go with this. An editing jog wheel made from a tape head - I like it!
osgeld says:
Thanks and good luck
the.texas.trucker says:
I'm very lost as to what this is supposed to be or what it's for. ... :(
osgeld says:
Nov 26, 2010. 12:12 PM REPLY Its just like the wheel on your mouse, its good for quickly spinning through large documents and the like, also people who do a bunch of audio video editing like them as you can just spin your way though large compilations Like I said its not for everyone, there is not too much middle ground on these things, its either an awesome addition to your computer, or you don't get it ... based on what random forum threads I have read
gregnjny says:
Nov 28, 2010. 10:11 AM REPLY Thanks for explaining - I really couldn't figure it out either. Not everyone is initiated, especially coming to the big grab bag that Instructables is. I'm not a big video editor, but as tech writer who does deal with large documents, I could see this! As for other applications - how fine is the angular position readout on these, I wonder? Making a position sensor out of it could be useful - although, of course, that is really already what it is. :P
osgeld says:
Nov 28, 2010. 10:36 AM REPLY depends on your encoder disk and the size of your optical sensor, on this one I am using 16 spots over the entire wheel, it could easily go to 32 with radio shack parts
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/
j_l_larson says:
Nov 27, 2010. 10:03 AM REPLY Ooh, I love those VCR head things. I have one too that I couldn't decide what to do with. They have beautiful smooth spinning action and once set spinning will just go and go. Wonderful little piece of engineering goodness.
osgeld says:
Nov 27, 2010. 12:58 PM REPLY yes they have nice machining and excellent bearings, of course the typical RMP they run at they really need to, and the mass of them helps with the weak motor drive in them, as in this one its just a couple coils inducting (and I imagine some controller magic)
zack247 says:
really cool! and i just so happen to have a write head from an old camera too...
zack247 says:
but im not sure if i get it, does it use the optical part of the mouse or the scroll wheel part to scroll?
osgeld says:
it uses the scroll wheel part, I replaced the mechanical rotary encoder for a reflective optical one the mouse camera is against the pcb and cant see anything
zack247 says:
ok. i get it now. thanks. this will work with a ps/2 one too, right?
osgeld says:
Nov 27, 2010. 9:40 AM REPLY yea it should work with any mouse with a wheel, just keep in mind some chips inside the mouse are larger than others IE I have a cheap dynex brand that I was going to use, but it has 5 buttons, and a 20 pin dip chip inside of it
http://www.instructables.com/id/Spinner-Jog-Wheel-Inside-of-a-VCR-Head/