TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD, VAPI

Presented by Abhijit Biswas Kamlesh Kumar

About the presentation

Company Profile Overview of the company Normal and Wider width Departments Printing Knitting Processing Yarn dyed Processing Physical Testing

NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

COMPANY PROFILE
 Alok Textiles Ltd.
1986 - Established as a private limited company 1989 Its first polyester texturising plant being set up 1993 - A public limited company

 Aloks Vision To be the world's best-integrated textile solutions enterprise with leadership position across products and markets, exceeding customer & stakeholder expectation Awards and Recognition Gold Trophy for Highest Exports of Bleached / Dyed / Yarn dyed / Printed Fabrics in fabrics Category. Gold Trophy for Highest Exports of Bed Linen / Bed Sheets /Quilts in Made-ups category Silver Trophy for Highest Global Exports Category

OVERVIEW
Vertically Integrated Textile Company on Cotton as well as Polyester stream Turn over of Rs. 4311.17 crores in FY 2009-10 which has increased 44.82% since last year. Export of Rs. 1558.99 crores in FY 2009-10 which has increased by 47.84% since last year. The company exports about 35% of its products to over 70 countries, with major markets being US, Europe, Latin America, Asia and Africa. Two decades of providing wide range of quality textile products

OVERVIEW
 Expanded into weaving, knitting, processing, home textiles garments  Entered the domestic retail segment through a wholly owned subsidiary, Alok Retail India Limited.  A chain of stores named H&A that offer garments and home textiles at attractive price points.

Normal width and Wider width

Width of the fabric ranges from 64-70 inch (normal width) and wider width ranges from 100-200 inch.. The fabric is sourced from silvassa plant. Fabric process flow :
Grey Singeing & Desizing Bleaching Mercirization

Folding

Finishing

Dyeing

Machines
Process Grey Singeing & Desizing Bleaching Mercirization Dyeing CPB CDR Thermosol Stenter Calender Sanforizer Folding NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY Packing Manufacturer Rapsons Copiwala Ostoff Beninger Benninger Benninger Benninger Benninger Monforts Monforts KKA & Kusters Monforts Copiwala Testa No. of machines 5 4 3 2 4 5 4 2 2 4 3 1 12 TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD. 1

Grey Section
The fabrics are available in A, B, C, D which are already graded when received. 2000 steel racks has been provided for storage for upto 29 lakhs fabric rolls. Rolls are opened and sent for further processing of singeing an desizing.
Fabric process flow :

Grey Cloth

Opening

Inspection

Batch

Singeing and Desizing

The fabrics is run perpendicular to the direction of the gas. The operations is performed by 3 machines (Osthoff seinge,Germany) and desizing is attached after singeing. Processing speed =>Light fabrics 120mts/min Heavy fabrics 60 mts/min Chemical used in desizing : Wetting agent :- It increases in absorbancy. Enzymes It removes size applied to the fabrics. Chelating agent It restricts the reaction of any metal ion with any added chemicals. The machines process upto 30000 mts/shift.

Bleaching
The fabric is passed through the washing chambers is passed on to the Injecta chamber. Peroxide bleaching is used instead of hypochlorite because it provides permanent whiteness. It has 7 washing zones Initially three washers 90C, 90C, and 60C and last four washers at 90 C, 90 C, 90 C, and 60 C respectively. Last chamber is meant for neutralization with acetic acid. 16 calendar rolls for drying with pressure of steam as 2 kg Running speed of fabric 80 m/min.

Mercirization
It is the treatment for cotton yarns and fabrics. It improves Lustre Wettability Dimensional stability Better dye uptake Chain mercirization is done in 2 machines and 1 chainless machine used for heavy/weight fabrics. Processing speed => 60-70 mts/min Chemicals used NaoH, Organic Acid, Caustic Soda. The final section comprises a highly- efficiency washing and neutralizing zone consisting of EXTRACTA compartments. Temp is maintained 90-95 C and pH 5-6 for organic acid for neutralization.

NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

Dyeing

Pre-treatment fabric (cotton)

Cold pad batch

Pad Dry Pad Steam

Continuous Dyeing

Colour Development

Pad Steaming (curing)

Washing

Dyed fabric
NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

Dyeing
CPB Dyeing It is only used for only reactive dyes. There are 3 CPB machines from BENNINGER. Dyeing process takes 16 hrs for dyeing at room temperature and operates at 50-60 mts/ min. Chemicals used Fixer chemicals (sodium silicate) Reactive dyes. Soda and Caustic. Production/ Shift 20000- 22000mts

NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

Thermosol Dyeing
It is only used for only disperse, modified vat dye and reactive dyes. It has IR dryer chamber and used for dyeing the polyester part of the fabric. There are 3 IR dryer chamber which increases upto 450 c. Dyeing process takes 16 hrs for dyeing at room temperature and operates at 50-60 mts/ min. Chemicals used Binders Softner Glaubers Salt Acetic Acid.
NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

Pad Dry Pad Steam

It is used for Colour development Reduction clearing in case of blended fabric double bath dyeing. There are 3 BENNINGER pad steam. Dyes which are processed in the pad steam machine are Reactive dyes Vat dyes. Chemicals used for reactive pad steam process are Salt, soda ash and caustic. Chemicals used for vat dye pad steam process caustic hydro.

NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

Finishing
Stenter
7 chambers in stenter. Bowing and heading rollers at the feed end to remove creases. Both pin and clip arrangements are used. Overfeed 5% Fabric speed 50m/min.
CHAMBER NO 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 LIGHT SHADE 110 0C 120 0C 130 0C 140 0C 140 0C 140 0C 140 0C MEDIUM SHADE 110 0C 120 0C 130 0C 140 0C 140 0C 140 0C 140 0C DARK SHADE 110 0C 120 0C 130 0C 140 0C 150 0C 150 0C 150 0C
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

Finishing
Sanforising It is pre shrinking finishing. Rubber belt shrinks the fabric along with it Shrinkage > 5 % Speed 50 m/min Steam heated roller over belt at 110 0C 50 m fabric from in to out After shrinking zone, there is a setting zone to set the shrinkage in fabric. Calendering Fabric speed of 70 m/min Expander rollers are used at feed end 3 roll system with 2 cotton rolls and one steel roll Temperature of calendars roller is 70 0C Pressure 70 N/mm Strength reduces after calendaring It improves the feel and surface appearance of fabric NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

PRINTING
Screen-printing: The most used technology today. Two types exist: Rotary screen printing and flat (bed) screen printing A blade squeezes the printing paste through openings in the screen onto the fabric. Digital textile printing: A process of printing on textiles and garments using specialized or modified inkjet technology. Inkjet printing on fabric is possible with an inkjet printer by using fabric sheets with a removable paper backing and is used for sample preparations.

NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

Process Flow
DEVELOPMENT AND APPROVAL OF SAMPLES (WOVEN OR KNITTED) ROTARY PRINTING POLYMERIZER( for pigment and reactive)

LOOP AGER(for vat dyes)

INSPECTION

PACKAGING

NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

PRINTING
Rotary screen printing is used for the bulk production while flatbed screen printing is used for sample preparation. Screens are prepared in the following steps for the printing to be done through it

ENGRAVING

COATING

CLIMATIZER

ROTARY PRINTING

SCREEN WASHING

CURING AND ENDRING

The mesh of the screens are in the range of 40, 50, 60, 125, 145, 165 units per inch.
NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

Mimaki digital printer

Reggiani rotary printer

NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

Arioli loop ager

The average daily production of each of the screen printers is 70,000 m with the rpm of each rotary screen as 150-200.
NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

Knitting
Knitting Fabric (Silvasa) Grey Section (Batching & Inspection)

PTR + Dyeing

Slitter (open Width)

Folding

Compactor

Stenter

NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

Grey Section
4 Grey opening machine of Hsing Cheng. 2 machines each for open width and double folding. Double folding machines the open width to tubular for better dye pickup. Production 2500 kg/ shift.

NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

Dyeing Section
Grey Opening If Lycra No Stretch Fibre

Heat Set

PTR + Dyeing

Finishing

NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

Dyeing Section
PTR and dyeing is carried out in soft flow machine. It is carried out in rope form. PTR chemicals Wetting agent, NaOH (assisting in impurity removal) H2O2 Bleaching agent with pH at 6. Temp suitable for dyeing Cotton : 80C- 85C Polyester :- 130C - 135C Dwell time for various shadesLight :- 6-6.5 hrs Medium : 7.0- 7.5 hrs Dark : 7-8.5 hrs Extra Dark :- More than 8.5 hrs.

NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

Compactor
Fabric is initially it is stretched width ways on chain. Then fabric moves on to compactor units. It compacts the open width fabric and to get proper width GSM, shrinkage (4.5%). Shrinkage is controlled by overfeeding and stretching. It has a woolen belt and Teflon coated rollers for compaction. One unit is for shrinkage on lower side and second unit for setting on upper side. Running speed is 20 m/min
NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

Stenter
To apply chemical finish on the open width fabrics. To heat set cotton lycra/P/C/Nylon etc. To set the require width of the fabric. To make weft structure. There are 7 Chambers. It is used for width control Running speed - 30 m/min 25-30 % overfeed Temperature of chambers is kept in the range of 150-155 0C 160 cm width increases to 170 cm at 40 % overfeed.

NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

Yarn Dyeing
Yarn dyeing is a process of imparting colour to a greige yarn. The Yarn packages comes in cones form from silvassa unit. The range of yarns are 4S to 2/100S. The two type of dyes are used Vat Dye and Reactive dye. Process Flow flow Winding PTR Finishing
Dyeing

Drying

Rewinding

NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

 WINDING (BEFORE DYEING) o Greige cones packages winding from cones to cheese. o Cheese is perforated in nature. o Cheese is in the form of steel or plastic form. DYEING o Dyeing by Batch Process. o Yarn cheeses placed in the spindles o Placed in respective carriers to the dyeing, soaping and finishing of yarns o Temperature x Light - 60C - 70C for 40 - 60 mins. x Medium - 80C - 90C for 60 80 mins. x Dark - 80C - 110C for 80 90 mins.

AFTER TREATMENT o Chemicals - Hydrogen peroxide, Pervalin RS, Acetic acid and Perfil 210. o This process is carried out at 95C WINDING (AFTER DYEING) o Soft packages winding from dyed cheese to cones. o Checking is done PACKING (PENGUINE) o In cartons - Less quantity of cones o Bulk packing x Packing machine used x Wounds the cones with thin plastic sheet in a circular manner x Cones rotated automatically on a revolving platform for winding
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

Hydro Extractor
To extract water from creels. The centrifugal force acts to extracts water. It revolves at 1400 rev/min.

NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

Creel Dryer
To dry the creels. The electrons will pass through the creel at high frequency at voltage 15000V. There is a electrode plate over the creels which will strike the creel and air pressure will dissipate the electrons. Distilled water is used to create electrons. The use of RF energy oThe H2O molecules become excited during the process and energy is not dissipated throughout the mass and the product thereby causing unnecessary heating.

NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

Physical Testing
Yarn count ( warp reel & beesley balance) Original width Usable width Tpi , epi, ppi Tear strength tester Absorbency test Tensile strength(weft and warp) Pilling Shrinkage

NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

Color Fastness Tests

The following tests are conducted and measured on the grey scale RUBBING FASTNESS( WET AND DRY)(AATCC) WASHING FASTNESS( TOP LOAD (ISO) AND FRONT LOAD ( AATCC) ) COLOR FASTNESS TO WATER (AATCC) Color Fastness to light is also conducted using the ISO Standard test procedures

NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

TENSILE STRENGTH TESTER

CREASE RECOVERY TESTER

ARASION TESTER
NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

 The machines were mostly of the company James H. Heal. The key features of the lab were the softwares
Datacolor that predicted recipes for the different dyeing and other processes using CMC Spectrophotometer and Auto color dispenser for solution making and dispensing

NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

NATIONALINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP : ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.