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HOME → TECNICHE FOTOGRAFICHE CATEGORIE

• Composizione e arte
Come fotografare l'arco della Via Lattea • Saggi e ispirazione

DI GUEST POSTER | 34 COMMENTI • Tecniche fotografiche


ULTIMO AGGIORNAMENTO IL10 FEBBRAIO 2019 • Tutorial fotografici
• Post produzione

In questo articolo, daremo uno sguardo più da vicino a come fotografare l'arco della Via • Recensioni

Lattea. Ho scritto questa guida dal punto di vista di una persona che ha ampiamente
imparato da solo. Negli ultimi quattro anni ho avuto anche il prezioso aiuto di un collega TUTORIAL FOTOGRAFICI

fotografo notturno. Ho commesso tutti gli errori e poi ho provato molte correzioni
mentre imparavo e lavoravo per ispirare anche gli altri a provarlo. Ammetto di apprezzare
le mie foto notturne quando sembrano scattate di notte, a parte gli scatti al chiaro di
luna che a volte possono trasformare la notte in giorno. NOZIONI DI FOTOGRAFIA DI
BASE SULLA PAESAGGI
FOTOGRAFIA

FOTOGRAFIA MACRO
NATURALISTICA PHOTOGRAPHY

COMPOSIZIONE FOTOGRAFIA IN
E CREATIVITÀ BIANCO E NERO

FOTOGRAFIA PORTRAIT
DEL CIELO PHOTOGRAPHY
NOTTURNO

FOTOGRAFIA DI VIDEO DI
STRADA FOTOGRAFIA

ATTREZZATURA CONSIGLIATA
Contesto e storia
• Le migliori fotocamere DSLR
Sono cresciuto nell'isola del Pacifico di Tarawa nel mezzo dell'Oceano Pacifico negli anni • Le migliori fotocamere mirrorless

'60. Non avevamo inquinamento, non c'erano grandi città. Solo alberi di cocco e cieli neri • Le migliori reflex digitali entry-level
• Le migliori fotocamere per la fotografia di
come l'inchiostro di notte, con la Via Lattea sopra l'oceano. Ero il figlio maggiore, quindi
paesaggi
ho dovuto sedermi con il cronometro e contare per mio padre mentre cercava di
catturare le stelle e la Via Lattea nel film. Purtroppo, non l'ha mai fatto veramente. Solo SUPPORTACI

dopo l'introduzione del digitale ho potuto capire perché: ci sono troppe cose che
possono andare storte su pellicola. Il seguente tutorial è tutto tratto dalla mia esperienza
con una Nikon D600 e Samyang 14mm f / 2.8 . Questa è una fotocamera e un obiettivo
full frame, ma tutte le tecniche seguenti possono essere facilmente convertite in
fotocamere DX e con sensore di ritaglio.

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ARGOMENTI RECENTI

• DSLR decente per la fotografia di paesaggi

• Risoluzione massima del sensore da 24 MP?


• Recensioni di Nikon D5 / D6 mancanti qui

• Digitalizzazione diapositive

• FujiFilm X-T4 per la fotografia di uccelli e fauna

selvatica?
• Serve un nuovo computer per gestire le fotocamere

ad alta risoluzione
• Quale obiettivo Nikon per full frame
• Uso del gel stick sulle fotocamere mirrorless Nikon

Z.

• Alterna tra il pulsante Indietro e il rilascio

dell'otturatore
• Lo schermo LCD della Nikon Z6 si oscura in modalità

di riproduzione

NIKON D600 + 14mm f / 2.8 @ 14mm, ISO 3200, 27 sec, f / 3.5

Impostazioni di base della fotocamera


Below are the basic camera settings I use for photographing the Milky Way bows:

Camera Mode: Manual


White Balance: 4000-4200
ISO: 3200-5000
File Format: 14 bit RAW + JPEG (since some things I want to do don’t use RAW)
Shutter Release: 2 second timer. That way, you are not touching the camera at all,
apart from start of the timer. Alternatively, use a remote
Shutter Speed for Single Shots: 20 seconds
Shutter speed for Bows: 25 seconds (more on this later); the time does not change,
regardless of moonlight or darkness levels
Aperture: f/2.8 on a dark night, or the widest aperture on your lens. In moonlight,
f/4-5.6
Long Exposure Noise Reduction: On
VR / IS: Off, if your lens has it

Another valuable tip is to move the focus from the shutter release to a dedicated button
(such as AF-On). That way, the shutter release only captures the photo and does not re-
focus, so that you don’t end up with a ruined image. Or, switch to manual focus only.

Having done all this, my first shot is to test and make sure that everything is perfect. For
example, are the corners of the shot pinpoints or trails? This is something you will need
to correct out in the dark. Sometimes, a piece of paper with your settings written on it
may be a good idea to use. Especially when beginning astrophotography, the night
environment is perfect for making mistakes that are easy to avoid during the day. A list
of exposure settings and other menu settings is crucial to remember, and, if you forget,
you can easily refer to the paper – you do have a torch! All this becomes second nature
the more you learn and practice.

Un altro buon consiglio è quello di utilizzare l'impostazione "Il mio menu" (se la tua
fotocamera ne ha una) per memorizzare tutte le impostazioni importanti che useresti di
notte. Un'altra opzione è memorizzare queste impostazioni in una modalità fotocamera
dedicata come U1 / U2 o banchi di menu.

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NIKON D600 @ 16mm, ISO 3200, 25 sec, f / 4.0

Focalizzazione
Questa è una delle cose più difficili da fare di notte. C'è un articolo su Photography Life
sulla messa a fuoco notturna , ma tratterò anche un po 'di informazioni qui.

Ti consiglio di usare "live view": trova una stella luminosa, ingrandisci il display LCD e
metti a fuoco manualmente, poiché non c'è messa a fuoco automatica nel buio della
notte. Oppure, il modo pigro che uso è mettere a fuoco le nuvole o qualche altro
oggetto all'infinito durante il giorno. Una volta che è perfetto in live view, fissare l'anello
di messa a fuoco dell'obiettivo in modo che rimanga nella stessa posizione. Il vantaggio
del nastro è che impedisce di spostare accidentalmente la messa a fuoco dell'obiettivo,
rovinando le immagini del cielo notturno. Questo è anche un buon momento per
disattivare l'autofocus.

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Regole e un po 'di matematica
I miei primi due tentativi hanno mostrato molte promesse, quindi ho pensato che avrei
esaminato di più questo aspetto, ma avevo bisogno di più luce, quindi era il caso di
quanto tempo avrei potuto tenere l'otturatore aperto. Internet mi ha mostrato due
regole per il momento ideale: la regola "600" e "regola 500".

Fondamentalmente, dividi questo numero per la tua lunghezza focale, che restituisce il
tempo in secondi che può essere la tua velocità massima dell'otturatore, evitando le
tracce di stelle nell'immagine. Ad esempio, per un obiettivo da 14 mm, si otterrebbe
un'esposizione di 42 secondi quando si utilizza la regola 600 (600 diviso per 14 mm =
42).

Tuttavia, ho scoperto che le stelle si trascinavano continuamente quando si scattava per


così tanto tempo. Le cose andavano meglio con la regola 500, che dice che dovrei stare
bene a 35 secondi. Tuttavia, ho trovato le mie stelle dove non sono puntate sul bordo
dell'inquadratura, e sono tornato al tavolo da disegno per trovare il momento giusto.
Sono passato a 28 secondi, 26 secondi, 25 secondi e infine a 23 secondi, dove non ho
potuto vedere alcun trascinamento. Quindi, con il reverse engineering, ho finito con 333
come la cifra giusta. Come puoi vedere, è lontano da 500 o 600!

Quindi, se applico la "regola del 333", otterrei 23,78 secondi con lo stesso obiettivo da 14
mm. Funziona bene, ma non posso modificare la velocità dell'otturatore interna su una
Nikon su numeri compresi tra 20 e 25, a meno che non utilizzo uno scatto remoto. La
soluzione è solo scegliere l'uno o l'altro; non dovresti vedere troppo trascinamento a 25
secondi, ma puoi scendere a 20 secondi se vuoi essere al sicuro.

Se si dispone di una fotocamera con sensore ritagliata come la Nikon D7100, utilizzare la
matematica seguente: 333 diviso per 1,5 (fattore di ritaglio) = 222, quindi questa diventa
una "regola 222" per fotocamere con sensore ritagliate 1,5x. Quindi, dividi la lunghezza
focale per questo numero per ottenere la giusta velocità dell'otturatore. Ad esempio, per
un obiettivo da 18 mm, 222 diviso per 18 comporterebbe un tempo di esposizione di
12,3 secondi.

Per i fotografi APS-C / DX, il Samyang 10mm f / 2.8 ED AS NCS CS sarebbe la scelta
giusta, equivalente a un obiettivo da 15 mm su fotocamere full frame.

Per qualsiasi altro sistema di telecamere con un fattore di ritaglio diverso, utilizzare gli
stessi numeri di base come riferimento e tenere in considerazione il fattore di ritaglio. Ad
esempio, per le fotocamere Canon con un fattore di ritaglio di 1,6x e un obiettivo da 18
mm, i numeri sarebbero simili a questo:

333 diviso per 1,6x (fattore di ritaglio) = la "regola 208"


208 diviso per 18 mm = 11,5 secondi

Usa queste impostazioni come inizio, ma prova sempre e controlla il tuo primo scatto per
vedere se è necessario regolare diversamente. Tutte le combinazioni obiettivo /
fotocamera sono diverse, quindi controlla ingrandendo lo scatto sul retro della
fotocamera per vedere tutti i dettagli. Dipende anche dall'area del cielo che fotografi,
poiché le stelle si muovono più rapidamente nel cielo quando sono più vicine
all'equatore celeste (più lontane dalla stella polare per i lettori nell'emisfero
settentrionale). Quindi, tutte queste cifre sono stime, ma dovrebbero portarti sulla strada
giusta.

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NIKON D600 + 14mm f / 2.8 @ 14mm, ISO 3200, 15 sec, f / 2.8

Treppiede e testa per treppiede


Su questo stesso sito c'è un ottimo articolo sulla scelta di un treppiede . Nel tempo,
scoprirai che i migliori treppiedi valgono i soldi, poiché ti serviranno per molti anni a
venire. Considera un solido treppiede un investimento importante, quindi compralo una
volta e acquista quello giusto dall'inizio. Il mio treppiede non ha una colonna centrale,
quindi è stabile come una roccia. E, a 6'3 ″, il mio mirino è all'altezza degli occhi. Uso una
testa a sfera calibrata sul fondo, in modo da poter muovere la testa con movimenti di
gradi corretti per scattare immagini panoramiche.

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di ciascuna gamba, quindi posso vedere facilmente l'angolo del treppiede. L'uso di una
singola livella a bolla non è così preciso, una volta arrivato a cucire un gruppo di 13 scatti
per fare un panorama completo a 360 gradi o 16 scatti di un arco a doppia fila.

ISO 3200, 20/1, f / 2.8

Uso una "staffa a L" sulla fotocamera, quindi passare dall'orientamento verticale a quello
orizzontale è facile come staccare la fotocamera e capovolgerla, con la testa che rimane
invariata. Un altro investimento utile.

NIKON D600 + 14mm f / 2.8 @ 14mm, ISO 4000, 20 sec, f / 3.2

I use the “Virtual Horizon” feature of the camera to level the camera up to the level head
of the tripod, and I always have a little drag on the tripod head so the camera cannot
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move on its own under its own weight. You do not want any mistakes to end up with
hard-to-fix issues once you load up your images on a big screen.

Planning
I use four tools to help plan where I go, when, what direction to shoot, and, most
importantly, what I can expect to see:

Stellarium – this will show you where to find the Milky Way, and it is very easy to use.
Moon Phase Plus – or a similar app to see the state of the moon.
Google Earth – to see the site before you get there (though I always get there early
to look around; things change!)
Night Lights – to see how dark it is where you are planning to take pictures. I live in
Perth, Western Australia, so I am blessed with very black skies and so few cities
around.

Don’t forget to get a good app to check on weather, especially any cloud movements in
the area.

The Early Shots


My own experience started when I purchased a Nikon D600 and a Samyang 14mm f/2.8
AE. My first ever shot was on a moonlit night and the fire we had that day:

NIKON D600 @ 14mm, ISO 1250, 21 sec, f/3.5

I counted in my head as I held the shutter open with a remote and did not even think in
those days to use a proper timer. It is very confusing out in the dark and there is a lot to
remember, so the first few nights where a real trial. My next night out, I chose a very
dark night without a moon:

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NIKON D600 @ 14mm, ISO 1600, 15 sec, f/2.8

Never give up if your shot may not be quite what you wanted – I asked my fellow
photographer to stand still while he stood to the side of his camera and set it. He turned
on his head lamp, adjusted the Nikon D800E and 14-24mm, then moved back to take the
shot. Here is that shot hands, camera, tripod and body as one – out under the stars, the
magic of long exposure.

NIKON D600 + 14mm f/2.8 @ 14mm, ISO 1250, 163/5, f/2.8

The Milky Way Bow


The next step is to be able to make a Milky Way Bow out of your shots. I must confess
here – I had no idea how to go about it. I first took them as horizontals, as it took less
time and easier to stitch. Wrong! It was a harder and a wrong way to take the photos.
You are better off capturing photos in vertical format, as you also get the most number
of stars in the shot and information when it is all stitched together.

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I had my Milky Way Bow shots 3 months before I could get a good program to stitch
them. Most programs would stitch well for day shots, but fail for night shots. I tried a
number of different tools including Adobe Photoshop, Lightroom, Arcsoft Panorama
Maker, Microsoft Ice and Hugin. I had all sorts of problems with them all in their own
ways. For example, compare the two shots below. The first one was stitched in
Photoshop – the ground is flat and you see double stars at the joins, but not the way
you see the stars in the sky.

My second night partner told me try PTGui – it turned out to be the best for
astrophotography. It is not free, but the results speak for themselves:

You have to set control points and you have far more control over the end result. You
can move the whole thing about and use masking tools as well (the best way to get rid
of airplanes).

Setup
When I do a Milky Way Bow or a 360 degree panorama, I take the time to make sure that
the tripod head is level on all three of my extra bubble levels. Then it is a matter of
making sure that the Virtual Horizon in camera is also good. I then start from a set point
on the tripod head with my 14mm lens and move the setup in 30 degree increments for
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each vertical shot before or after the Milky Way Bow. This is where the slight trailing stars
at 25 seconds can be eliminated in the stitching process. I have even done a two-row
stitch of the Milky Way:

Sometimes, you have to be flexible. When I got to the site, what I thought was my 14mm
was in fact my 50mm f/1.8 lens, and my 16-35mm f/4 was also in the bag. I had never
used this lens for astrophotography, but a three-hour drive was a long way to go to get
it. So another tip is to always double check and make sure you have everything in your
bag before you leave! The Nikon 16-35mm f/4G VR shone after I went through the
finished photo set from that lens and luckily, I kept a spare tape on the top of my tripod
leg, just in case.

Summary
I hope that in some way this article has taken the mystique out of night photography for
you. I am just an average Joe, not a pro photographer, so this is the information and the
tips I can share with you based on what I have learned so far. It is my hope that if you
get a chance, you will get the camera out and give it a try. There is nothing like the very
first photo on the back of your camera at night!

When my fellow night shooter asked me why I wanted to do astrophotography, my


answer was “test the brain, patience and the resolve.” It always pays to plan ahead, so
you have some things to work on. If you never plan, you will never go – as simple as that.
Some of the shots from this article are from 4 hour drives out of the metro area, so keep
in mind that you have to plan and you must think well ahead of time. If you follow a few
simple principles pointed out in this article, I am sure you can get some great images at
night!

I would also like to point out that none of these shots have been altered in post-
processing software other than some global edits. I did not enhance the Milky Way in
Photoshop like many others do, because as a former film shooter, I prefer this natural
look. I have printed large metal 1200cm x 750cm pictures for my home, so that I can
remember why I own a camera and enjoy life.

Hope to catch you out under the stars, enjoying the night sky!

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This guest post was contributed by Steve Paxton.
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34 COMMENTS Most Voted

Herb Riddle
April 12, 2018 8:18 am

Congratulations Steve, this is a superb article on the subject of night sky photography. I have
tried to capture a Milky Way Bow a couple of times in the rare days of darkness over here in the
NW of England but never achieved the results that you have here. I can now see, after reading Privacy
realising why my stars all trailed, wrong iso –wrong lens!! The end results were usually a blurred,
tilted and unrecognisable sky. Not researching the terrain beforehand nor the actual moon phase
and placement of the Milky Way did no help. Trying to stitch the photo’s afterwards with
inappropriate programs made things even worse. So – at last a guide by a guy who is just a very
keen enthusiast and writes in a language that I can understand is really welcome.
I have the Nikon D7100 and several lens. Used MS Ice to stitch.
Regards and thanks, Herb

0 Reply

Steve Paxton
Reply to€ April 12, 2018 9:18 am

Herb

Thank you for your comment. I think that if you follow some of the principles here you
will get a head start and you can see just what you can achieve. I wrote this to try and
inspire others like myself who wanted to learn but can not find the simple info or how
to. I do count it a valuable lesson that I taught myself and learn’t the principles the hard
way. As you can see by my results you can, if you stick with it and are willing to give it a
go you will get the results. Its always best to start off with what you have learn to use it,
only get better gear once you get a little more enthusiastic about taking these shots
then think about upgrading. A good solid tripod and head are a must if you want to
even start, calibrations on it for consistent results of movement.

I hope you can get some photos under your belt that you can see it is worth trying and
giving it a go. Planning even in the UK will give you some good results if you use all the
tools to plan. Happy night shooting.

Steve

0 Reply

Chanapa Theeraphongsakul
April 11, 2018 3:49 am

Hi Steve,
First, your photo super awesome and really beautiful. I like the way you said “My own experience
started when I purchased a Nikon D600…………” it makes me feel that everything come from
ordinary thinking and not too hard to get them. I will learn from your technique and try to set
any function till I can get the best one.
Thanks for good sharing. :))

Thailand

0 Reply

Steve Paxton
Reply to€ April 11, 2018 5:11 am

Chanapa

Glad you like my fav photo up front, I thought best to start at the top. In a way I am
glad I did not have the Apps and I had to learn from scratch made me understand
better than not having to think on it. It is worth trying with the help of the info here it
will stand you in good stead and you will be able to adapt it to you camera lens
combination. I had plenty of things go wrong but its very easy these days to make even
a double Row Bow with no auto head but my own and the tripod.

Plan and think things out its all logical once you see it. Many thanks for reading and
going to give it a go why I wrote the article so it was seen as easy as it is if you follow a
few rules. Enjoy the night sky.

Steve

0 Reply
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Timo Wolf
April 10, 2018 1:53 pm

Hello Steve,
Thx for the great article. My motivation has doubled to get out under the night sky. I have some
big plans this year. Planning is key to get things right. You drive 4 hours. I have to hike up my
backyard mountain 4 hours. Spending all that time to realise you forgot something is a let down.
Making the most out of those situations are a treat too ;) Your work is a pleasure to look at. My
goals are not far away. Cheers. Thx again.
Timo Wolf
Bad Hindelang, Germany

0 Reply

Steve Paxton
Reply to€ April 10, 2018 2:21 pm

Timo

I am glad that you have found some inspiration in the article that was my main aim to
share what I have learn’t and that way help others along the same path. If you follow
the few basic principles you will get a result, then after that the sky is the limit. Planning
and preparation is the key things don’t just fall into place. I wish you well and will tell
you that the more times you try the better you will get. Many thanks and all the best.

Steve

0 Reply

Steve Paxton
April 10, 2018 12:29 pm

Joshua

Certainly match all the fun trying to get them in the first place which is half the battle. many
thanks.

Steve

0 Reply

Joshua Boldt
April 10, 2018 12:23 pm

fun photos

0 Reply

Daniel
April 10, 2018 10:33 am

Thanks for the reply Steve, as you say, fingers crossed for some clear skies! The moon looks like
its in full force which might be an issue but far better than clouds!!

I certainly aim to be taking plenty of stuff written down with me, very good tip!

Dan

0 Reply

Steve Paxton
Reply to€ April 10, 2018 12:25 pm

Dan

You can still get some good shots of the stars but they will not be as intense but a very Privacy
help you get use to the camera at night and where every thing is. Try the APP at the first
comment as well wish I had it when I started but at least I learn’t the hard way. Good
Luck.

Steve

0 Reply

jean pierre (pete) guaron


April 10, 2018 6:44 am

I particularly liked the shot with the boulder illuminated with a yellow light, from underneath.
Others are great, for different reasons.

Steve, these photos are obviously taken in Australia – where, if I am allowed to ask? I went on a
night shoot last year, at the Perth Observatory in Bickley Valley (which is not “in” Perth – it’s
deliberately located in a reasonably deep valley, so that contamination of the night sky by lights
from the city is minimised). A four hour drive to find a suitable location would possibly be a turn
off for some people.

I do remember, as a child, lying on my back on our tennis court, with my brothers, staring at the
night sky – but city lights weren’t such an issue in those days, there weren’t as many and they
weren’t anywhere near as bright as the lighting that came along later. And later on, the sky in the
“real” outback – it had a clarity which was awesome! – in the far north of South Australia, in the
Northern Territory, and in western New South Wales and western Queensland.

When I was fumbling with my cams on my first attempt to shoot the night sky last year, I hadn’t
had the benefit of advice from anyone with your experience. I wish I’d seen this article first – but I
did manage to capture some good shots of the Milky Way, including the showpiece of the
southern sky – the Southern Cross – so it was a successful shoot anyway.

One of the best things about our hobby [??} or profession is the willingness of other
photographers to share their knowledge and experience. There are occasional trolls, but in the
grat scheme of things, they are few and far between. And the rest of the personalia on this and
similar websites are just simply very nice people!

0 Reply

Steve Paxton
Reply to€ April 10, 2018 12:17 pm

Jean
All the shot are from Western Australia half made up of trips out of Perth to the Foot
Hills, the other half are to the real out back 3 and 4 hours drive the further you get out
of the city lights the blacker the sky. The interesting thing is in Perth you can see the
Southern Cross and the Pointers clear but not the stars of the Milky way that they reside
in. Look up “the legend of Emu in Milky Way” its a most interesting read.

I hope the info will give you some where to start and give it a try again and I do agree
all the people here and those who I have met are more than willing to help you learn.
Enjoy the Night Sky.

Steve

0 Reply

Peter Connan
April 10, 2018 5:09 am

Thanks for your thoughtful article Steve. Your panos really look excellent and this is something I
will probably start experimenting with in the future.

Just one question, if I may? I have mostly used the D750 (which is basically the same sensor as
your D600) and have now taken a “backwards step” to the D500 (which suits my other
photography needs better).
While using the D750, I found that I could get slightly better results by keeping the ISO fairly low
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(400-800) and lifting the exposure in post production, typically lifting exposure by 2 or three
Due to the near complete ISO invariance of this sensor, I find that the result is somewhat less
noise in those areas where I have not needed to lift exposure as much, and similar noise in those
that I have.

I have found this technique to become critical with the D500, as this camera has dreadful battery
performance when shooting long exposures at high ISO’s. I typically like to produce both a star
trail and a starscape from a session, and sometimes even a time-lapse movie, but at 4000 ISO
and 30-second exposures, I get between 60 and 70 exposures, whereas at 400 ISO and 30
seconds, I get upwards of 300 exposures.

Have you ever tried this technique, and have you found any problems with it?

0 Reply

Steve Paxton
Reply to€ April 10, 2018 8:18 pm

Peter

I think it should be me asking the question both my Fellow night shooter and I are
looking at getting a D750 for just that reason. On the other hand the link that Aaron put
up front the spread sheet says BOTH our D600 & D800 are ISO invariance but my few
looks at this tend to tell me other wise and why the D750 looks the right way to go. My
next night shoot I will be looking into this big time maybe I don’t need a D750 at all but
this is yet to happen.

You sound just like the two of us as we do very much the same at night as well we both
get a good battery life out of our camera’s and never noticed a drop in performance
apart from our oldest batteries (original). The only battery I have that does not perform
as well is my first and oldest battery, the cold does not help an old battery. I have three
and tend to reserve my old one for day work and the two new ones for night work with
that in mind I have a number written on each battery. Are your batteries old I would
have thought that the newer camera would have been better than that if its not an old
battery.

I am not sure if some one like Aaron has had any experience on this it may be worth
dropping a line and asking the question.

I feel I have only added more questions than answers for you but hope you can get to
the bottom of this and it is only a very old battery that would be easy. I hope you get
the chance to get out and try getting a Bow as you already seem to enjoy the night like
me.

Steve

0 Reply

Aaron D. Priest
Reply to€ April 14, 2018 6:05 am

There are a lot of people that claim that some camera models have a much higher
power consumption at higher ISOs and thus shorter battery life. I’ve never actually
measured this because I often shoot 12+hr timelapses in the cold and I power the
camera from an external power source in an insulated bucket. I also prefer a
vertical grip with a larger battery in it, it balances better with telephoto lenses
during the day. So I personally haven’t noticed any issues with this, but I’ve read it
a lot from others.

The D750 is indeed a tough camera to recommend. The sensor is amazing, but
the build quality is poor. There have been three recalls on the shutter and we’ve
had several rentals at workshops just die on day 2 or 3 with “eRR” on the display
or not power up at all. But I also know some wedding photographers that put
thousands of frames on them every wedding and swear it’s the best camera ever
made. I personally prefer the ergonomics, ports, and buttons of the pro bodies
like the D300, D500, D700, D800, D810, D850, etc. over the D600, D610, or D750. I
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feel the D750 should have been called a D650, simply due to body style. The
I too have been experimenting with shooting at lower ISOs and boosting in post
vs. high ISO in the field. I felt that the D750 and D800 could pull that off, but the
D810 was better to raise ISO and expose to the right if possible. The D850 I’m still
unsure of, it definitely has a boost around ISO 400 where it has a lot of dynamic
range, but the noise level is different vs. doing it in post vs. in camera. Not better
or worse persay, but different. And some scenes seem to look better with one
method vs. the other. This could be due to the RAW processor though, as in
Adobe not having finished tweaking the D850 rendering. I need to experiment
again with Lightroom 7.3 and the new camera profiles to see how this changes
things. Capture One likely has completely different results being a different RAW
processor.

0 Reply

Peter Connan
Reply to€ April 15, 2018 1:00 am

Sorry I missed your reply Aaron


Nothing beats experience. Working without that is always risky. I have a
suspicion that the D750’s shutter doesn’t like high shutter speeds.

I seem to operate at the ends of the spectrum. 75% of my shutter count is


birds, mostly trying for in flight, and thus running at speeds at or over
1/2000th, and this may be what caused my issues, and I wonder why studio
and wedding togs who never reach these types of speeds aren’t having bad
experiences? But, I don’t have that all-important experience to be confident
in this claim.
Most of the rest of my shots are at very slow shutter speeds, several seconds
being common.

I tend to find it very difficult to spend any of my money on expensive items


that don’t bring a direct improvement to results. I own a good camera, a
couple of stunning lenses, an exceptionally sturdy but also very heavy old
tripod (inherited from my father) and just the minimum for the rest. I
haven’t even made the necessary investment in a much-needed speedlight,
never mind an even more expensive battery grip.

Having sayd that, I would really like to know more about your external
power source. Is it mains-driven, or battery-powered?

0 Reply

Aaron D. Priest
Reply to€ April 15, 2018 9:21 pm

You may be on to something with the D750 shutter speed, I haven’t


researched that! Sounds like a good theory at any rate. ;-)

I have a home-built solution with a DROK 12V to 7.5V step down


converter and Anderson PowerPole connectors so I can use a variety
of 12V sources from a Goal Zero Sherpa 100 and solar panel for hiking
to a big truck battery for 24hr timelapses, and I can mix/match cables
between various devices with an Anderson PowerPole distribution
block to power multiple things at once (dew heater, camera, pan/tilt
head, controller, etc.). A much simpler solution for most people that
doesn’t require making your own cables is Tether Tools Case Relay
system: www.tethertools.com/produ…er-system/ It will cost a bit
more, but so do the tools for crimping your own plugs if you don’t
already own them.

0 Reply

Steve Paxton
Reply to€ April 16, 2018 1:38 am Privacy
I have followed this conversation with a great deal of interest
does not sound good for my new D750 better the devil you
know(D600).

www.flickr.com/photo…ed-public/

As I said at the start your info Aaron is pure gold and some
thing we all can learn from. I do count myself as a beginner I
also will look at your link.

Steve

0 Reply

Peter Connan
Reply to€ April 19, 2018 9:46 pm

Thank you Aaron

I tried my own home-made solution too, but haven’t got it to


work yet…

0 Reply

Steve Paxton
Reply to€ April 10, 2018 9:59 pm

Peter

I found this link i think you should read Re D500 battery.

www.amateurphotographer.co.uk/lates…life-79779

Steve

0 Reply

Peter Connan
Reply to€ April 12, 2018 10:11 am

Thanks for the reply Steve. I am aware of the difference between the newer Li-
Ion-20 and the older Li-Ion-01. I have two of each, but the figures I quoted used
the LI-Ion-20’s exclusively.

Also, I must make it clear that I do get great battery life when shooting shorter
exposures. As an example, when shooting air shows and model aircraft, (typically
shutter speeds between 1/250th and 1/2000, with low to medium ISO’s and very
low usage of the screen but extensive use of both AF and VR on my 500mm f4), I
have acheived over 2000 exposures on a battery a couple of times.

Also, low temperatures are not really an issue for me, as the area I live in (South
Africa) seldom sees temperatures much below freezing. I certainly never operate
in temperatures below -5C.

I have definitely determined that the D500 has much higher battery drain at high
ISO’s and long exposures than previous Nikons, and this has been confirmed by a
friend with the same camera. But let’s park that discussion, as the D500 is
definitely not the best choice as an astro camera, if only due to the paucity of fast,
short glass.

If it had not been for three shutter failures in less than 70 000 actuations I would
still be happily shooting the D750, but as it was I just couldn’t trust it anymore.
Also an average repair period of 8 weeks didn’t help much. For this reason, I
personally would not recommend the D750 for anybody who shoots a lot. Apart
from that, it is a brilliant all-rounder, but I would probably rather look at a
second-hand D810 or even better a D810A.
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DavidB
Reply to€ April 21, 2018 10:18 pm

Peter Connan wrote:


“…While using the D750, I found that I could get slightly better results by keeping the ISO
fairly low (400-800) and lifting the exposure in post production, typically lifting exposure by
2 or three stops…”

I agree. I have done this type of testing on my D750 several times. I shot dark sky
images using the same aperature (e.g., f/2.8) and the same shutter speed (e.g., 15
seconds) and a range of of ISO settings from ISO 200 up to ISO 6400. I found that ISO
settings of 400 or 800 seemed to give the best results after boosting the exposure in
Lightroom. ISO 200 was too dark for this test (would have needed wider aperture or
longer exposure). Noise would increase noticeably with ISO 3200 to 6400 but these did
not need an exposure boost in post processing.

Aaron D. Priest wrote:


“…The D750 is indeed a tough camera to recommend. The sensor is amazing, but…”
I think the D750 is a great night sky camera but wish it had the body/control layout of
the D700/D8xx series of cameras. I especially miss having a viewfinder shutter.
Nowadays I have to drape a dark cloth over the eyepiece for long exposures. But given
the price difference between the D750 and the D810/850 and the quality of the night
shots I’m pretty happy with the D750.

0 Reply

Steve Paxton
Reply to€ April 24, 2018 3:03 am

David

Your comment has made my year it was not looking very good from the above
comments. my main reason for the D750 was its night ability as a person who is
very happy out in the dark. I think the pixel size, weight and pricing are way in
favour than the D810/850 and above all else the way I shoot as well. I do admit to
having a piece of black leather in the ND filter holder to put on top of the view
finder when the ND filter is used.

Many thanks for restoring my faith..

0 Reply

Daniel
April 10, 2018 4:24 am

Thanks for this article, as you have stated it’s designed to help us newbies and for that I reckon
spot-on. Am off to dark Scotland later this month so hoping to capture some decent skies. Any
thoughts on using trackers to get longer exposures?

Cheers, Dan

0 Reply

Steve Paxton
Reply to€ April 10, 2018 4:48 am

Dan I myself have not got a tracker but I have had my camera put on one result was
stunning with my 50mm F1.8 @ F2.8 part of the Milky way.

www.flickr.com/photo…ed-public/

It is something that I have thought of very seriously but for the moment I am enjoying
the freedom of being just a tripod and Camera. Plan well the time you go, so you can
prepare for the trip where is the Milky Way, Moon and what Scenery you wish to add as
interest. Have a sheet of info with you its confusing out in the dark, buttons, menus and
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setting. Go positive with the right info and above you can see what you can get, I
My friend has tried in Scotland a few times been beaten by clouds I hope it works for
you. This closest place I see in the UK to the Black of Western Australia. All the very best.

Steve

0 Reply

jean pierre (pete) guaron


Reply to€ April 10, 2018 7:29 am

Next time you want a long drive, to take these shots, try somewhere off the
“Track”, near the Devil’s Marbles, in the Northern Territory. You won’t find a sky in
WA as black as that!

0 Reply

Daniel
Reply to€ April 10, 2018 10:32 am

Thanks for the reply Steve, as you say, fingers crossed for some clear skies! The
moon looks like its in full force which might be an issue but far better than
clouds!!

I certainly aim to be taking plenty of stuff written down with me, very good tip!

Dan

0 Reply

Shaun
April 10, 2018 3:54 am

Fantastic article and well written Steve,

Anche un manichino come te può capire il concetto. Mettere la testa intorno alla matematica è e
sarà sempre un problema, ma quello che hai scritto posso seguirlo e persino portarne una copia
con me la prossima occasione che ho di uscirne.

Shaun :-)

0 rispondere

Shaun
Rispondi a€ 10 aprile 2018 4:03

scuse per l'errore di battitura. Yelf = me stesso

0 rispondere

Steve Paxton
Rispondi a€ 10 aprile 2018 04:29

Grazie Shaun, volevo farlo nel modo più semplice possibile e cercare di ispirare
gli altri a fare un tentativo, con un po 'delle giuste informazioni e tecnica. Goditi il
tempo libero nel nero della notte e continua a farlo più ci provi più impari da
solo.

0 rispondere

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