NO performance modifications . . just some stock engine servicing suggestions.

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Service Manual
Troubleshooting Flow Chart Guide.

TOOL SUGGESTIONS

HOME DEPOT . . Husky #532135 45-Piece Stubby Set, $13, includes 4, 4.5, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14,
15, 17mm (oil drain plug) 6-point sockets. If not in the tool section, look for a display near the checkout
counters.

CHECKER SHUCKS KRAGEN . . Alltrade #836332 8-Piece Metric Wrench Set, $10, includes 6, 7 (carb main
jet), 8, 9 (valve lash adjusters), 10, 12, 14, 17mm combination wrenches. Most sets at a comparable price
point DO NOT have the 9mm size wrench.

For a smaller "take-along form factor", most of the metric tools from these sets will fit into a
6.5"Lx4.75"Wx3"H food container (Wal-Mart thinly sliced meats).

ENGINE & REAR GEARBOX OIL CHANGE GUIDELINES

A strainer (Wal-Mart kitchen gadgets or a Goodwill type thrift store) is useful for catching the engine oil drain
plug and screen assembly. Change oil several times during the first 1,000 miles (1,609 kilometers) to flush
out suspended metal particles. Wal-Mart SuperTech 15W-40 works fine.

While positioned on the center stand, warm engine dipstick oil level should be around midpoint on the cross-
hatched tip when placed against the case threads (not screwed in).

To avoid stripping rear gearbox case threads, apply thread compound to bolts and just "snug up".

Using a squeeze bottle (Wal-Mart kitchen gadgets) is one method of refilling the rear gearbox until oil runs out
the hole. SuperTech 80W-90 works fine.
A rinsed and air-dried soda pop bottle works well for collecting used oil for recycling.

VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT GUIDELINES

On a cold engine . . remove spark plug, and valve cover. Apply ArmorAll (or similar) to cover gasket to keep
supple. Check that head bolts are tight.

Use kick start lever to rotate engine and align cam sprocket holes with head top surface. Remove right side
fan cover inspection plug and verify flywheel "T" mark is aligned with case protrusion.

Manual specifications state .002 inches clearance.

If you have access to compressed air, before installing the spark plug consider removing the right-side engine
cooling shroud and fan, then blowing out stator dust from under the flywheel . . thread link.

If you can access the carb through a hatch in the underseat compartment, also consider removing the top
round cover (spring loaded), then lifting out the diaphragm-slide assembly and applying ArmorAll (or similar)
with a foam brush to keep the rubber supple. While the needle-slide is out, might also spray a shot of carb
cleaner down the main jet to back-flush it.
CARB CLEANING GUIDELINES

Rotate throttle control plate to disconnect cable. Loosen adjustment nut and remove cable through support
slot.

Disconnect enricher (choke bystarter) electrical connector, loosen front and rear mounting bands, and
separate carb from manifolds. Remove fuel line and drain to catch bottle. Drain fuel from carb bowl to catch
bottle.

While wearing SAFETY GLASSES in a well ventilated area, preferably OUTDOORS, disassemble and spray
METAL components with carb cleaner over crumpled-up newspapers in a wastebasket. Flush all internal
passageways. Blowing out the passageways with compressed air is helpful, but not essential. Any residual
carb cleaner will either evaporate or be mixed with gas. Watch for a miniature spring and O-ring to exit from
low-speed mixture screw hole. Verify that the miniature aeration holes at nozzle end of main and low-speed
jets are clear by viewing through them against a bright background. For future reference, record size
markings at suction end of jets (may require a magnifying glass). The sizes in this stock carb are 35 low-
speed and 85 main. Avoid spraying rubber and plastic parts with carb cleaner . . applying ArmorAll (or similar
product) will help keep the rubber supple. Jumper enricher wires to a 12 volt source and verify that needle
extends . . video. Reassemble carb components and turn low-speed mixture screw 2 revolutions out from
seated. The L-extension on the low-speed mixture screw in these images wasowner added.

Reinstall carb. Refilling carb bowl through inlet fuel line with gas from a squeeze bottle will aid restarting.
Allow wastebasket newspapers to air-out OUTDOORS for several hours while carb cleaner evaporates.

SPARK PLUG TESTING GUIDELINES

Pull off boot, unscrew with a 5/8" deep socket (perhaps with a universal), and "read" plug electrode color.
Black indicates a too rich fuel mixture and very light beige/white usually indicates a too lean fuel mixture.
To free up one hand, bungee cord left brake handle (to enable starter interlock). Ground plug against engine
case and energize starter to observe spark (ensure "emergency-off" switch is in run position). Apply anti-
seize to old or new plug threads when installing. Consider a NGK C7HSA (or resistor version) gapped to .
028".

INTERMITTENT & NO SPARK TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDELINES

Verify that the spark plug wire ends are securely twisted into the screw studs in both the plug boot and coil.
Check continuity of CDI-to-coil wires, and engine-to-frame ground wire. Some multimeters have an audible
tone continuity feature . . example.

"i suspect that there was an intermettent spark due to dirt from the stator and flywheel" . . thread link

”that spark plug wire and braided metal hose seem a little chummy” . . thread link

”the wiring harness was getting pinched between the frame and the floorboard!! This was grounding out the
ignition or power to the CDI box” . . thread link

”Put some crushed ice in a plastic bag. When you have a no spark situation chill the CDI or the coil, and see
what happens. Do them one at a time.” . . thread link

”Pin plugs are jsut holders for individual small electrical connectors, and sure enough one of the connectors
had backed itself out.” . . thread link

”The first thing you should try is to disconnect the black/white wire from the CDI connector and then check to
see if you get a spark. This test will indicate if the problem is with ignition components or in the scoot wiring.
With the black/white disconnected and you still do not get a spark, the problem is within the ignition system
component parts. If you do get a spark, then the problem is with the ignition switch, kill switch, sidestand
switch, or the wires going to those switches.” . .thread link.
A miniature flat-tipped screwdriver can be inserted into the plastic housing to bend down the tang for
temporary ground wire connector removal.

”The lesson I learned from all of this is that you can't determine anything by measuring voltages out of the
stator with the CDI hooked up.” . . thread link.

Ignition Troubleshooting: No Spark

CDI Troubleshooting

”Ive tested a stator before that ohmed out fine but after it ran for a while it lost spark because of low quality
windings.” . .thread link.

Replacing the 139QMB stator requires first removing the shaft nut (lefty loosy) with an impact wrench, or
securing the flywheel with a strap wrench and using a socket wrench/bar, then attaching a 24mm x 1.0mm
right thread puller to remove the flywheel. The scooter panels may obstruct the use of the combination
50cc/150cc cross puller design, but a 10mm bolt from a hardware store can be substituted.

Stator pickup only resource.

TESTING CYLINDER COMPRESSION

Verify compression test set includes a 10mm adapter . . example. Engine should be warm. Removed spark
plug must be grounded, or "emergency-off" switch in off position, to avoid "air gap spike" ignition coil
damage. Twist throttle to full open before energizing starter for a few seconds duration.

TESTING MANIFOLD VACUUM

Verify fuel is visible in the in-line filter. Connect gauge hose to intake manifold vacuum port. Readings will be
highest at idle speeds.

« Last Edit: March 29, 2009, 02:11:51 PM by tortoise »