4783 version 6

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Analyse and design purl (links/links) structures and patterns

Level 4

Credits 4

Purpose This unit standard relates to the analysis and design of purl or links/links
patterns capable of being knitted on double-cylinder circular garment-length
and sock machines, and flat bed machines – either purl or stitch-transfer rib
machines.

People credited with this unit standard are able to: identify and notate the
constructional details of basic purl structures and prepare machine-specific
technical specifications for their production; analyse, notate, and prepare
machine-specific technical specifications of purl fabric patterns and
constructions for their incorporation into pattern and control programmes as
feature motifs; and design purl-stitch patterns and prepare machine-specific
technical specifications for their incorporation into pattern and control
programmes as feature motifs.

Subfield Industrial Machine Knitting

Domain Knitting Machine Technical Servicing

Status Expiring

Status date 19 March 2010

Date version published 19 March 2010

This unit standard is expiring. Assessment against the standard must take place
before the expiry date set out below.

Expiry date 31 December 2011

Entry information Open.

Accreditation Evaluation of documentation and visit by NZQA and

industry.

Standard setting body (SSB) Apparel and Textile Industry Training Organisation

Accreditation and Moderation Action Plan (AMAP) reference 0030

This AMAP can be accessed at http://www.nzqa.govt.nz/framework/search/index.do.

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Special notes

1 This unit standard applies to the following sectors of the knitting industry:
a half-hose;
b circular garment-length;
c flat bed.

2 This unit standard relates to circular machines using two superimposed cylinders
(double cylinder or links/links machines), and to flat bed purl machines, and V-bed
machines capable of transferring stitches from needles in one bed to needles in the
other.

3 In respect of fabric structures such as Aran patterns and cable-stitch motifs, knitted
on flat bed machines, these designs are covered in Unit 4791, Analyse and design
Aran and other patterns based on stitch transfer and needle-bed racking.

4 This unit standard covers only purl structures – pattern motifs in which the stitches in
any wale may be variously plain and purl stitches – and does not deal with the rib
structures and transition structures that form the foundation of socks and garment
panels into which the purl motifs are incorporated. These are covered in Unit 4781,
Analyse and design weft knitted structures and patterns produced by cam changes.

5 The term knitting sequence draft is used in this unit standard to describe the
separation of a pattern draft on a feeder by feeder or traverse by traverse basis for
ease of preparing mechanical pattern-selection systems.

Where patterns are prepared by means of CAD systems, this separation may be
done automatically.

6 Basic purl structure descriptions are as follows:

a 1 x 1 purl – also known as garter stitch, in which a course of stitches knitted on
needles in one bed alternate with a course of stitches knitted on the needles in
the second bed;
b 2 x 2 purl – as 1 x 1 purl but 2 courses in each bed alternately;
c 4 x 4 purl – as 1 x 1 purl but 4 courses in each bed alternately;
d Single moss stitch – or moss stitch (a hand-knitting term), in which a single
course of 1 x 1 rib is knitted, all needles or stitches are transferred into the
opposite beds and a second course is knitted in the new 1 x 1 rib set-out, and
then all needles or stitches are again transferred;
e Double moss stitch – as single moss stitch but with 2 courses in each rib set-
out;
f Basketweave patterns – effectively broad rib set-outs such as 4 x 4 rib, knitted
for several courses and then, as in moss stitch, the needles and stitches are
reversed, and the needles knit in this set-out for the same number of courses as
at first.

7 Technical aspects that are required to be covered in demonstrating competence in

this unit standard include:
a identification of the walewise distribution of purl stitches in purl patterns;
b basic purl patterns;

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c machine-specific patterning systems and notational systems relevant to

machine patterning systems;
d cam selections necessary for the transfer of needles or stitches, as appropriate;
e integration of purl structures into the pattern and control programme for their
use as feature motifs.

Elements and performance criteria

Element 1

Identify and notate the constructional details of basic purl structures and prepare machine-
specific technical specifications for their production.

Range 1 x 1 purl, 2 x 2 purl, 4 x 4 purl, single moss stitch, double moss stitch, simple
basketweave patterns.

Performance criteria

1.1 Basic purl structures are identified and notated in terms of their knitting
constructions.

1.2 Constructional details are prepared in terms of machine-specific technical

specifications.

Range needle or stitch transfers, transfer selections, cam settings feeder

by feeder or traverse by traverse.

Element 2

Analyse, notate, and prepare machine-specific technical specifications of purl fabric

patterns and constructions for their incorporation into pattern and control programmes as
feature motifs.

Performance criteria

2.1 Purl-stitch patterns are analysed in terms of knitting construction data according
to product specification.

Range machine-gauge, structure notation, pattern draft, knitting sequence

draft, cam settings and selections feeder by feeder or traverse by
traverse, needle-bed rackings (where required), fabric quality, yarn
sequencing or striping.

2.2 Fabrics are analysed in terms of yarn count data.

2.3 Full machine-specific technical specifications are prepared, including all knitting,
pattern-selection, yarn, and quality elements, for incorporation into a pattern
and control programme, and meet company documentation requirements.

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Element 3

Design purl-stitch patterns and prepare machine-specific technical specifications for their
incorporation into pattern and control programmes as feature motifs.

Range create two of own designs and constructions.

Performance criteria

3.1 Designs are drafted in terms of construction data according to product

specification.

Range notation on paper or other design aid.

3.2 Pattern drafts are analysed in terms of knitting construction data.

Range machine-gauge, structure notation, pattern draft, knitting sequence

draft, cam settings and selections feeder by feeder or traverse by
traverse, needle-bed rackings (where required), fabric quality, yarn
sequencing or striping.

3.3 Yarn counts are nominated in terms of product specification and/or machine-
gauge.

3.4 Full machine-specific technical specifications are prepared, including all knitting,
pattern-selection, yarn, and quality elements, for incorporation into a pattern
and control programme and meet company documentation requirements.

Please note

Providers must be accredited by NZQA, or an inter-institutional body with delegated

authority for quality assurance, before they can report credits from assessment against
unit standards or deliver courses of study leading to that assessment.

Industry Training Organisations must be accredited by NZQA before they can register
credits from assessment against unit standards.

Accredited providers and Industry Training Organisations assessing against unit standards
must engage with the moderation system that applies to those standards.

Accreditation requirements and an outline of the moderation system that applies to this
standard are outlined in the Accreditation and Moderation Action Plan (AMAP). The
AMAP also includes useful information about special requirements for organisations
wishing to develop education and training programmes, such as minimum qualifications for
tutors and assessors, and special resource requirements.

© New Zealand Qualifications Authority 2010