R O A D AT L A S M O Z A M B I Q U E

MOZAMBIQUE

NEW INCLUDES
GPS CO-ORDINATES

0860 10 50 50
www.mapstudio.co.za R O A D AT L A S

19 ps
CE Ma
58
SIN ality
Qu

1st Edition © Map Studio™ 2009

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any
form or by any means, electronic, electrostatic, magnetic tape,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior
permission in writing from the Copyright owner.
Map Studio and the MapStudio device are trademarked to New
Holland Publishing (South Africa) (Pty) Ltd

TRAVEL
ISBN 978-1-77026-030-6

PERFECT FOR THE FIRST TIME VISITOR E COLOUR PHOTOS

DETAILED CONTINUOUS MAP SECTION E STREET MAPS
TOURIST AREAS E SITES E PLACE NAMES INDEX
9 781770 260306 CONTACT INFO E SMALL TOWNS E RESERVES
www.mapstudio.co.za NATIONAL PARKS E ROUTE PLANNER
Cover image supplied by ACTIVITIES E HOT SPOTS E HISTORY
IMAGES OF AFRICA www.imagesofafrica.co.za
Ian Michler GPS CO-ORDINATES
 MOZAMBIQUE
Contents Contents Contents Content

Mozambique flag

INTRODUCTION 4 CENTRAL REGION 46

General 6 Beira 48
Parks and Reserves 8 Beira Corridor 49
History 10 Gorongosa National Park 50
Activities 12 Tete 52
Getting Around 14 Zambezi Delta 53
Quelimane 54
TOURIST REGIONS 16 Quelimane & Surrounds 55
Gili Reserve 56
MAPUTO REGION 18 Nampula 57
Highlights 20 Cuamba 59
Maputo 22 Mozambique Island 60
Maputaland 24
Maputo Bay & South 26 NORTHERN REGION 62
Maputo Elephant Reserve 28 Pemba 64
Bilene 30 Ibo 65
Chokwe & Surrounds 31 Mocímboa da Praia 66
Quirimba Archipelago 67
SOUTHERN REGION 32 Quirimba Archipelago South 68
Xai-Xai & Praia do Xai-Xai 34 Quirimba Archipelago North 70
Great Limpopo Transfrontier Niassa Reserve 72
Reserve 36 Lichinga Area 74
Zinave & Banhine National Parks 38
Inhambane & Surrounds 40
Vilankulo 42 MAIN MAP PAGES 76
Inhambane Coast & Tofo 43
Bazaruto Archipelago 44 INDEX 107
RESOURCES 109
3
Bazaruto Archipelago Bazaruto Arc
WHAT THE ISLANDS OFFER
•Ilha do Bazaruto
Can be visited by twin-engined aircraft or
boat; Bazaruto Lodge and Indigo Bay Hotel
offer sheer style and island luxury; the farol
do Bazaruto still flashes its warning signals
out to sea.
•Ilha de Benguerra
A tract of indigenous dune forest promises
superlative birdwatching and a series of
brack-water lakes in which crocodiles
secretly lurk is surrounded by beautiful
shifting dunes that change colour with the
light. Benguerra Island and Marlin Lodge
– the latter built of Mozambican
hardwoods and elevated on stilts – will
ensure sweet dreams.
•Ilha de Magaruque
Catch a dhow to here or take a ski-boat
transfer. Stroll on deserted beaches, or
snorkel or scuba dive in the deep channel
that runs offshore a short swim from the
beach. Low tide exposes a multitude of
pansy shells (one endemic to Mozambique)
and dolphins surf along the coastline.
•Ilha de Santa Carolina
Boats ferry visitors from Vilankulos and
Inhassoro to this isolated place of intense
natural beauty. The hotel here is not
operational so island visitors need to carry
Lighthouse on Bazaruto Island a plentiful supply of water.

BAZARUTO NATIONAL PARK FISHING

Paradise lost, nirvana … the powdery feel Marlin fishing
of sand between your toes, the shadows of (prime season is Oct–Dec)
whispering palms playing out on white Black, blue and striped marlin
beaches, aquamarine-cerulean water lapping Large gamefish
the shore – this is what fills your vision (Apr/May–Aug/Sep)
when you trip onto one of the five islands Sailfish, giant kingfish, wahoo, king mackerel,
making up the archipelago. The largest is dorado, bonito
Bazaruto – some 30km (18 miles) by roughly Smaller gamefish
3km (2 miles) – and the tiniest Bangué. In- (year-round)
between, Benguerra, Magaruque and Santa King mackerel, bonito, trevally, queen
Carolina (or Paradise Island) can all be mackerel
visited. Rock & surf fishing
In 2000 the Bazaruto National Park officially (evening high tide)
consisted of a 150km2 marine park Kingfish, bonito, bonefish, gars
encompassing Benguerra, Magaruque and Note: Tag and release fishing is the usual
Bangué islands, together with a 5km (3- policy.
mile) buffer zone around them. Bazaruto
and Santa Carolina were listed as special BIRDLIFE
vigilance zones, although plans were afoot (+/-164 different species)
to incorporate these into the national park Green coucal
in the future. The focus, in the meanwhile, Green pigeon
is on allowing tourist development that Purple-banded and black sunbird
benefits the islanders but also protects the Olive bee-eater
ecology of the region and preserves selected Mannikin
coral reefs. Paradise fly-catcher
Park entry tickets must be purchased before Bartailed godwit
visiting – try the Vilankulos WWF office or Whimbrel
any registered tour operator. A small fee is Crab plover
payable if you arrive on your own boat; no
camping allowed on the islands.
44
Archipelago Bazaruto Archipelago Baza
Ponta Dom Carlos
Cabo
Bazaruto
H Hotel Seta
Inhassoro Pestana Bazaruto
EN1

Dhows Island Lodge Bazaruto

Lighthouse
Complexo Salema
Mufundisse Chibique
Ponta Estone
Ponta
Nhangosse

Ponta Inhassoro Ponta

Zenguelema (Park HQ) Guniça

Ilha de Santa Carolina Guniça Dunes

(Paradise Island)
Ponta Tondo
Ilha do Bazaruto

Ponta
sh
ar Goane
Ponta Gengareme b èM
Bá Lagoa
elago

Nhassasse
Indigo Bay Ponta Chilola
Island Resort H
Indigo Bay
Crocodiles
Ar chip

Lagoa
Ponta Múlideza Lergue
Ponta Inhangondo

Bazaruto
National Park
Ponta Pangaia
Canal De Moçambique
Baz ar uto

Ponta Chuambo Two Mile

Chuambo Reef
Ponta Dundo

Ponta Muanha Pansy

Island

Ilha de
Benguerra
SÓ V
EICU

Ponta Dundo
LOS

Ponta Chinhongue Benguela Island Lodge

TOD

Azura Lodge
O
-TER

Marlin Lodge
REN

Ponta Cúbuê
O

Ponta Cheringomo
Ponta Comuine

Inhambane Ponta Duvini

Ilha de
Magaruque
Vilanculos Beach Lodge
Ponta Chué

Dona Ana
EN1

H
Ilha de
N
19 2 Vilankulo Bangué
BAIA PARAISO,
BLUE WATERS Casa Josef & Tina NOT TO SCALE

45
Central Region Central Region Centr
CRY ME A RIVER
River of legend and intrepid exploration, the
Zambezi neatly bisects the country into two
halves: the more popular and, today, much-
visited southern region (due to its accessibility
from both Zimbabwe and South Africa) and
the remoter and sometimes impenetrable
northern region, influenced more by Malawi 42 Tourist region maps
and Tanzania. Mozambique’s destructive Cóbuè
2001 floods, which prevented the Caia ferry Gam
from running for weeks, have reinforced the 46 Chapter opener maps
Zambezi’s uncanny knack for creating
formidable barriers to movement into the Point of interest Lichinga
north. Flowing dead centre as it does across
this sector of the country, this powerful
waterway is kingpin of the Central Region.
Cassacatiza
NATURE ON THE REBOUND Lisula
Mozambique’s central sector embraces three
conservation areas within its fold, the most
important of which is Gorongosa. Today
battered and bruised from its civil-war role Panhame Zóbuè
as headquarters for the Rhodesian-backed 103
Renamo resistance movement, it is most Tete 52 Milange
heartening that in late 2007 an official wildlife
count showed an unusually high number of
ungulate species (sable, hartebeest and Changara Mo
oribi) and a surprisingly rich nocturnal- Canxixe
mammal life, including smaller carnivores. 102
Gili is still wild and untamed (yet with great
potential) and Marromeu, on the Zambezi Inhamitanga
delta, is receiving much attention for its
prolific waterbirds – although its previously Gorongosa Gorongosa
National 50
much-vaunted buffalo herds will take a while Park
to return to their original numbers. Ga
Chimoio EN6
A BRIDGE TOO FAR
Travel north across the Central Region is Beira 48
controlled by the vagaries of the Zambezi Espungabera
and the country’s long months of summer EN1
rain, mainly from November to April, which
tend to swell countless rivers and transform Bazaruto
the sandy, dusty, corrugated roads into a Island
Zinave
nightmarish quagmire. Which is why nothing National Park
else but a 4x4 is recommended to take you Chicualacuala Mabote
into these parts. Your options of crossing Vilankulo
the Zambezi are few – the impressive Banhine
suspension bridge at the heat-pit of Tete National
town, the converted (in 1998) railway bridge Great Park EN1
between Sena and Morrumbula (although Limpopo
Transfrontier
very bad tracks at either end make it Reserve
questionable) and the 22-ton vehicle ferries
at Caia, where it’s essential you sink lazily Macarretane Inhambane
into Africa time. The good news is that 2009
is the scheduled completion date for the
construction of an US$85 million bridge. EN1 Xai-Xai
EN4
Namaacha MAPUTO
Reserva de Maputo
(Maputo Elephant Reserve)
Ponta
do Ouro
46
entral Region Central Region Central R
BEIRA … RELIVE THE MEMORIES
The two attractions most likely to catch the
attention of travellers to this neck of the
Namuiranga Mozambican woods are the port city of Beira
(despite these days being distinctly shabby)
Negomano Mocímboa and the fascinating historical offshore isle,
da Praia Ilha de Moçambique (yes, old, crumbling
and ruined but oh, so slowly rising like a
è Niassa
Mecula Mueda phoenix out of the ashes). Many
Game Reserve Zimbabweans and maybe some South
Pemba Africans have fond memories of the good
old days in Beira, eating spicy pink prawns
ga at Johnny’s Place, dancing till dawn at the
Montepuez Moulin Rouge or sipping espresso and eating
Marrupa sweet custard pastries on the European-feel
central square. These old haunts still exist,
Fernão though not in their original guise – yet Beira
Cuamba 59 Veloso may still shake off its shabby exterior, fluff
out its tail feathers and glitter once more…
57 Nampula
Mozambique WORTH ITS WEIGHT IN CORAL RAG
Its cultural and architectural heritage a fusion
Alto Molócuè 60 of Persian, Arabian, Indian, African and
Portuguese flavours, Mozambique Island
Gili
56 enraptures most visitors. Dubbed Africa’s
Reserve Angoche ‘meeting point of civilisations’, it does,
however, present stark contrasts between
Mocuba Pebane modern and old. There is great charm in the
centuries-old architecture but there is also
Quelimane 54 N great poverty in the island’s village, Barrio
A Makúti, where the local people live in scruffy
E thatch-and-reed huts, draw fresh water daily
Zambezi Delta 53 C
O from the old underground cisterns at the
Marromeu San Sebastian fort, and use the beaches for
Game Reserve N their ablutions.
A

Central Region 46
I
D
N
I

ruto
nd

47
Beira Beira Beira Beira Beira Beira B
As Mozambique’s second largest city after
Maputo, Beira has definitely seen better
days. In its heyday, before the civil war and
independence, it was a holiday mecca for
travellers from Rhodesia (Zimbabwe today)
and South Africa. Then, its position at the
mouth of the Púngoè and Búzi rivers had
transformed it into a busy ocean port,
particularly since, for the British colony based
in Rhodesia, Beira was their closest harbour
link. Today drab, dirty and rundown, what
remains is a neglected port city. It has the
potential, though, to see a resurrection in
the future as its town centre resonates with
a distinct Iberian-cum-European air and the
long curve of Macúti beach is as picturesque
as ever, with its landmark rusty shipwreck
(the Macúti) and red-and-white banded
lighthouse, still in perfect nick.
Visitors of old will be sad to witness the
abandoned crumbling edifices of the onetime
elegant Estoril and Dom Carlos hotels, but
heartened to find that the Moulin Rouge
with its trademark red windmill still exists,
as does Clube Oceana on the beachfront –
and even Johnny’s Place, once legendary
for its platters of peri-peri prawns. Where
once the Moulin Rouge hosted wild partying
and all-night dancing, today it’s a lively
lunchtime venue for the locals and their
families who eat at long communal tables,
filling the place with noise and laughter.
Pique Nique oozes class and is among Beira’s
best, while Clube Nautico on the shoreline
turns out great seafood and chips. To
recapture the old Portuguese-style vibrations,
head for the central square, Praça do
Municipio, and sip an espresso at a pavement
café set beneath shady trees.

Doca de EN6, DONDO, CHIMOIO,

A

MA
INCHOPE, ZIMBABWE
NG

RT
Barcos IER
HI

MI
Estação NH ES
'TC

A
O MA
Pequenos

IR
Beira DO
EN

VE

SS
Shoprite

RE
TR UR AN
R

Railway Station
S

O GA
Supermarket
ER
AS
GA
BA

-O N
A

Red S-M O
SF
AL

CH

TRABALHADORES AV
.D ON
VE
Cross
RO

SQUARE EM TE Cemetery
NE
TO

S
Infanta Sagres House AIO
DA

Long Distance
PU
EL

CAP. P RAMOS AR
LA
RA

MA

MA
Bus Terminus
CH
BAG
oè

A
FA

ND
I
VIE

MA

O
SO
ng

Arcadia H TIV
A
POPULA

N.

RA
PODER R

AN
MOY

IXA
Pú

A BA
GE

Portuguese Hotel E LAWLEY

MO

BEIR ALFREDO
Cultural Centre Beira
O

SA

A DE MELO

VERDE
Cinema H Mozambique CA BO
NDE GUINE
A DO CANTO RESE
AL

METICAL
BR

SQUARE Bus BA
CA

Portugal House Terminal

GA
MO Goto Market
M

PA

(T'Shungamoyo)
AJ PI

YO
Maquinino
DE
OR NT

A
SE

RU

AR
O

MA
R

Municipal Square CONTINUADORES

PA

ND
SQUARE J Mercado do O
Infante H H Embaixador DE TIV
D EU Maquinino AN
E
Central Bicos House S
Cinema
Market Savoy DA QJM
Praia Nova AC E
AIR H SQUARE
Campo de Golfe
AS S DE iv
(New Beach) OR Clube Chinés Ch eve
M TIL
AL OUZ H
Market BU IN
QU HO
O N EL
AS Clube de Golfe
ER D
QU E Cathedral of our
EST

E Lady of the Rosary

EV

Observatory
AO

Library
GEN

PA
D RE
DE

Ship Graveyard RM AT
ERA

AR

A Cinema AID
E
FIL SSU
TO
LM

IP NC
HA

E AO CO
ACH

NC

SA RR
EIR
SA

MU
O
ADO

EL ED AD
Ã

MA UA EB
LV

TA

GA MO RD RIT
GA

O
TIS

Military Zone IA UZ
IN
MO O
M.

BA

ND
(Zona Militar) HO
CO

LA
TO

DE NE
No Entry Zimbabwean AL
NA

BU
ANDRADE COR V Embassy
RE

Q
O

O UE
N
ME ES
NT

AFONSO DE PAI RQ
M

UE
ROF D

VA
PI

H
A

Miramar
RP

Hotel Grande MATUES SANSÃO

H
SE

MUTE
M 500 (Derelict) MBA
IND Clube Oceana
Yd 500 IA N
O CE A N

48
a Beira Corridor Beira Corridor Beira C
Mavonde COMACHE, GURO, TETE CAIA
Gorongosa Km 50
RUSAPE

Watsomba
Odzani Gorongosa
Falls
Stapleford
Penhalonga
22 MOZAMBIQUE
NP Mi 68 25
Mutare Cultural Centre Pú
n
Nota
213
32 Manica 33 g oè 20
Nova Vanduzi 18 Chitengo Muanza
Casa 13 12 Weigh
Msika v Gondola Bué Drift Chinizvia
Border Hours Bandula Bridge 40 Maria (Low-water Forest
64 Inchope
06:00 – 18:00 22 Crossing only)
Hot 74 Chicamba Chimoio 30
EN6 Nhamatanda Semacueza
MASVINGO

Springs Barragem de 216

Chicamba Real Muda H 82 Macuácua
70 29
A9 TsetsserraExit Only (No Customs) Mud
EN1 a 37
Cashel
441 Mavita Revu
é 62 Dondo Rio
Dokodoko Rotanda 45
1214 m Rock Paintings 96 214
214 28 Savane N
Monte Binga
EN6
2436 m Revué
Nyanyadzi
Chimanimani Nova Almada Buzi
Chimanimani NP 60
431 20 Beira
Z I M B A B W E Dombe 10 Tonne Ferry CHIBOMA
Bandua Manica
h
O
24 DE JULH

JOÃO
FREI JOÃO MADEIRA B AT
IST
A IGREJ
MONTEIRO
MAJOR C

25 de Junho
Commercial School
AIRPORT

FE
RN
Samora Machel ÃO
VEL
Secondary School PE AL
FR
ED
OS
RO O
DA OL
CO AW
CAPITÃO PA VIL L EY
IS RAMOS CO O
M. HÃ ALFREDY
A

CD LAWLE
ED

CC BRANCO
AS PER
H

ILV OD
AN

A AC
OVIL
ST

A HERC
UEIRO

ULANO H Ã
CA
DE

DA
A
OV
NQ

T COELHO
VE
S

AN
PE
JU

UL

L COELHO
LO

D
G

EP
ÃO
AO

S
ÃO
JO
RN

JO
FE

Maquinio
Market
O
24 DE JULH

MACÚTI

LIA
MÈ
OA
RO

RT
PO
CA

BER

R
Clube
P

AS
ITÃ

DI
TO IVE

CAPELO da Beira
ES
B

BRITO
TING
DE SOFALA

NS

INDEPÉNDENCIA JOAO QUIERO

SPOR

SQUARE AV. DE NAPUL

A

Lighthouse in Beira

49
Gorongosa National Park Gorongosa
GETTING THERE
To make your bookings or garner updated
information on Gorongosa, visit their offices
in Beira at the Predio Infante de Sagro
(Manhica Freight building).
Leaving Beira, a more adventurous back
route to Gorongosa is via a right-turn at
Dondo onto the EN213 (signpost says
Cheringoma). Know that adventure comes
with downright difficult roads – the route
to Muanza is very bad, and during the rains,
definitely negotiable with 4x4 only; turn left
at Muanza to get to Chitengo Camp (the
only facilities in the park). Alternatively,
continuing north to Inhaminga, then turning
left, takes you to Mt Gorongosa. For the
safe option, stay on the EN6, remembering
the testing stretch to Tica. After Inchope, Chitengo Camp
turn right onto the resurfaced N1 (relief!) –
but be wary of the 100kph (60mph) speed FROM THE OLD…
limit, which often drops to 80kph (50mph). Civil conflict and Gorongosa’s unlucky role
Some 45km (30 miles) further, turn right to as Renamo’s headquarters succeeded in
Parque Nacional da Gorongosa onto a decent shutting down the park in 1983 (it officially
single gravel road, driving another 11km reopened in 1995). The devastating fact
(7 miles) to the main gate. After booking stands that the park’s large mammal numbers
in, Chitengo Camp is 17km (10 miles) away. were reduced by as much as 95%. All that
remained of the building structures were
PANS, GRASSLAND & SAVANNAH crumbling bullet-riddled walls and a sadly
Situated at the southern end of the Great derelict pool. The Casa dos Leões ruins,
East African Rift Valley, the 4000km2 (1544 once a kiosk and viewing point, thrilled
sq miles) park comprises the valley floor visitors with its promises of lion lolling lazily
interrupted in places by various surrounding in the grasslands, while the imposing two-
plateaus, while rivers flowing from Mt storey restaurant and bar at Mira Hipo –
Gorongosa (1862m/6109ft) ensure the many today the shell of a viewing platform – had
pans brim over. The Púnguè River defines diners watching hippo submerging and
part of the park’s southern border. Mainly resurfacing in ‘hippo lake’.
savannah with some forest-woodland, the
rest of the park is grassland interspersed
with clumps of acacia. For much of the year,
about one-fifth of this grassland is flooded
(the park is closed Nov–Apr due to the SENA Dry Season Crossing Only
rains). Sep–Oct is a popular time to visit. Monte 13 Canda
This well-watered habitat is nirvana for birds Nhamadzi Gorongosa Vanduzi
1862m 69
– which is why, according to the park, there
are over 400 different species. 215
30
Gorongosa
CHITENGO SAFARI CAMP Gorongosa
National Park
Recent extensive renovations (which are (Closed due to Cruzado
ongoing) have produced nine new air- 22 flooding, from
conditioned thatched rondavels (or cabanas), November
with mosquito nets and ensuite toilets. Nota 31 to April 30)
These are served by a bar and restaurant, Drift (Low-water
20
whose three meals focus on ‘authentic Crossing Only)
Mozambican’ cuisine. Future plans are Entrance 17 Chitengo
focusing on another restaurant, bar and pool 29
CHIMOIO

40 9
with inspiring views across a pan visited by Bué Maria
wild animals.
Inchope 30
EN6 N
Nhamatanda
Km 20 29
SAVE

Muda
Mi 10 BEIRA Tica

50
osa National Park Gorongosa Nationa
TO THE NEW
Enormously reassuring and uplifting news
comes from a series of wildlife surveys
undertaken in late 2007 by the Gorongosa
Restoration Project. These included aerial
counts and night surveys, so that nocturnal
species got a look-in too. The results: an
amazing recovery of many ungulate species.
Gorongosa unbelievably supports some of
the best numbers of sable antelope,
Lichtenstein’s hartebeest and oribi (191 at
last count); 507 waterbuck were recorded,
plenty of bushbuck and reedbuck, and the
first sighting of steenbok since the 1950s. Gorongosa National Park
Elephant (300 were tallied in 2007), hippo
and prolific crocodile also made their
appearance, while African buffalo and blue
wildebeest have been reintroduced. The
much sadder statistics centre on the
carnivores – hyena, jackal, and lion – present
but not in great number, while Selous zebra
has all but disappeared. Nocturnal carnivores
spotted and ticked off include African civet,
large spotted genet and serval.

MUERA
215
Gorongosa Gorongosa
National Park
34° 4' 29" E (Closed due to flooding,
18° 40' 41" S from November 31 to April 30)
ze
M uc

e
22 mb
za co
o

Mu

Lago Urema
Lion House

cad
Missi zi
Miradoure de Sungue
Nota
i
duz

Lagoa Mira Hippo

Casa dos Leoes
Vun

Nhamutengo Lagoa
Do Paraiso
Elephant
Drift (Low-water
EN1 20
Crossing Only)
Entrance Acampamento Chitengo Lagoa Lagoa
Gate Nhansato Nhamichindo
18
17
INCHOPE

Púngoè 9
Bué Maria Lagoa Picada de Urema
34° 6' 6" E
Urema

Mareze
19° 0' 7" S
Buffalo

N
P ú ng

Km 20
oè

Mi 10
NHAMATANDA

51
 R O A D AT L A S M O Z A M B I Q U E
MOZAMBIQUE

NEW INCLUDES
GPS CO-ORDINATES

0860 10 50 50
www.mapstudio.co.za R O A D AT L A S

19 ps
CE Ma
58
SIN ality
Qu

1st Edition © Map Studio™ 2009

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any
form or by any means, electronic, electrostatic, magnetic tape,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior
permission in writing from the Copyright owner.
Map Studio and the MapStudio device are trademarked to New
Holland Publishing (South Africa) (Pty) Ltd

TRAVEL
ISBN 978-1-77026-030-6

PERFECT FOR THE FIRST TIME VISITOR E COLOUR PHOTOS

DETAILED CONTINUOUS MAP SECTION E STREET MAPS
TOURIST AREAS E SITES E PLACE NAMES INDEX
9 781770 260306 CONTACT INFO E SMALL TOWNS E RESERVES
www.mapstudio.co.za NATIONAL PARKS E ROUTE PLANNER
Cover image supplied by ACTIVITIES E HOT SPOTS E HISTORY
IMAGES OF AFRICA www.imagesofafrica.co.za
Ian Michler GPS CO-ORDINATES