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Here we start to see how I make the rubber stamps so I can make resin copies of my model parts. The first thing
to do is find materials to make your work. Unfortunately I don't know where to find this things out of Italy but
with the help of some search engine you may find something. Attention that there are various type of Rubber
and Resins, to start I say you that there are two main rubber type , the first is the RIGID (red color) that is used
mainly for metal parts. The second is the FLEXIBLE (fleshly color) very soft and flexible used mainly for resin
cast, but nothing stops you by usingtha Rigid one for the Resin parts (the pieces may be flat as details). Here is
the list of things you may need:
Y Gooden plastified plane (50x60cm)
Y £lay
Y ºheets of plasticard or other similar material
Y Artistic ºpatula
Y ºpatula for sweets
Y package tape
Y Ñlastic Jug where you prepare the rubber
Y Talc
Y Hung
Y big syringe
Y ºilicon rubber

To start we may place a layer of clay on the plastic surface smoothed with a color can as a roller. It must not be
too big (you have to use too much rubber at one time if so) and we have to cut away a side as you can see on
the next photo. Now we have to make a hard choice , you may decide how to put the piece to replicate on the
clay base. I make this way, i look the side with the less end easiest details and I put it down on a hill of clay on
the layer and as you see on the next photo I smooth the borders (the clay is the to be the cap of you rubber
stamp so you have to push it down easy). Remeber to see also the parts that go downside as a U (look the
design)

You have to put some pieces on the same layer as you can see on the next photos , they have to be not so close
to each other.

After you have made 2 or 3 layers (do not make to much at the same time, it's easier to do a good job so) you
may use the plastic sheets (or other similar material) to make a wall around the layer leaving almost 1cm of
distance (look at tho next photos). I have made some standard measure sheets to use with all kind of pieces to
copy. I only have to take the best for that layer , looking also on the height of the pieces plus 1cm .
To make the sheets stay togheter I use the package tape and after this I place the little wall around the layer
putting also a round of clay at the base so the rubber doesn't go out under the sheets base (look at the photo up
and down here). Now you have to prepare you rubber mixture (you may see on the boxes for the percent of
catalizer for 100gr. of rubber) and mix it well. After you have a homogenous mixture you may strain to the box
taking attention to not move the pieces on the clay as you can see on the next photos.

After you strain the rubber you may leave rest so the air bubbles go out of the block.

After the time signed on your rubber confection for the drying you may turn upside the boxes and take of the
clay as seen on the next photos . You may take off all the little pieces of clay (I use a little hard toothbrush , not
my personal offcourse ) and after having pushed up the sheet borders and putted some talc on the rubber (so the
new rubber you strain on may not glue with other part) You can make a new download of rubber (almost 1 cm
of thickness to be very good).

Ghen the second rubber mold is hard you can take out all the original pieces and try with some resin how good
has gone you rubberstamp. ºee the next photos for the resul resin cast copies. (The gray piece is the original
one - Kondo ºazabi 1/220 B£lub original)
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Here we start to see how I make resin recast parts with the stamps I made before. The first thing to do is to find
the resin to use. The first times I used the italian Ñrochima resin that wasn't to much good but was the only I
find at a good price and easy to use. Now I use a new resin that my friend Roberto buys for me (Ureol F£52
Iso) that mixes the two components in 50-50 and once casted is white and it takes very few bobbles.
For casting we need a wooden plane, almost 50cm x 50cm (one that you can ruin) that you cover with old
newspapers fixed with scotch. Ñlace your stamps on this plane and take some little plastic cups where you mix
resin, take also a little iron rod to mix it and take off bobbles from stamp. Ñlace the plane near a well ventilated
place, better near an open window because the resin isn't good to inhale. Use two graduated syringes to help
mixing equal parts of resin in one cup, remeber that the resin takes (there are time differences on different resin)
5-10 minutes to start hardening so start mix it (as written on the box) trying to not create to much bobbles and
pour it into the form of the part into the rubber. Try to find the right amount of resin to fill the stamp and
remember to put some dropps of resin on the holes into the cover part of the stamp. Now before the resin starts
ti cast, you have to turn into place the cover as seen on the third figure from ºX, be quick and push down firmly
but not to hard to deform the stamp.

Just give a little push to the cover and you may see the excess of resin come out of the borders. Now you have
to wait that the resin hardens enough to take off the part form the stamp without deforming it. I usually make 4
groups of stamps so I can prepare other ones waiting for the others to cast. Ghen I see the resin that went out
from the stamp is hardened and isn't no more deformable I take one corner of the cover and I peel it away as
you see in the photo under here.

Now you only have to take off the resin parts form the rubber mold squeezing a little the rubber stamp that
doesn't broke and you have your recast parts made. Leave them to rest for about 24-48 hours so they harden at
all and are ready for making your models.
Final £onsiderations: Remeber that this is't the the best way at all to make recast but works great for me, try
starting with this way and make your own style. The hardest thing is to make good rubber molds and you may
tray to see how the piece has to be put under rubber.