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Materials
By Markus Weder,EMPA
(Swiss Federal Laboratories for Materials Testing and Research), St. Gallen, Switzerlan
ISO BULLETIN JUNE 2001
Rain, rain, go away, come again another day, chant the children. But, no, rain is
not going to go away. Indeed, according to the climate model calculations, global
warming will cause increased rainfall in many regions of the Northern
Hemisphere. However, ISO standards will help those that have to tolerate an
excess of it to keep singing in the rain. By developing standards on tests for
making rainwear as watertight as possible, and giving it breathability, the ISO
standards for watertight materials are yet another way standards have of making
life more comfortable in the many situations where the human being seeks to
keep dry.
The author looks at the ingenious means, from a James manikin to water towers,
used for testing for watertightness and breathability, that are allowing research to
make progress, and how ISO standards are having a growing influence in
enabling an assessment to be made of the quality of the watertightness of ready-
made articles of clothing under nearreal-life conditions.
The standards for watertight-ness are used on one hand by fabric manufacturers
and on the other by garment manufacturers. Present-day national standards
frequently specify the use of simple test methods (e.g.ISO 811, Textile fabrics
Determination of resistance to water penetration Hydrostatic pressure test) for
the assessment of the watertightness of clothing materials. ISO 811 is relatively
simple to use and based on static pressure measurements, which do not
correspond to the dynamics of a shower of rain in practice. The CEN/TC 162 WG
4 PG1 standard foreseen,a standard for a rain tower, will, in particular, be used
for workwear and protective clothing (military, firefighters, police, railway workers,
etc.) and will help to recognize mistakes in the making at an early stage, and, in
general to improve the quality of ready- made garments. Future standards will
also have to consider aspects of durability, which means that the quality of
watertightness has to be assessed after controlled, simulated use.
Rain is not constant in practice and, depending on the situation, its intensity
varies enormously. A drizzle, for example, is far less intensive than a cloudburst,
and the period of time during which a rainwear article is exposed to rain also
plays an important role. This disparity needs to be overcome with the
development of a rain tower test.
As its name implies, the job of rainwear is to protect the body primarily against
external moisture or precipitation. However, many materials are available these
days that not only claim to be rainproof, but also to expel moisture resulting from
intense physical activity, and to propel it out. Given the difficulty of this balancing
act between protection and physiology, a product often does not come up to
expectations. In the last few years, so-called breathable rainwear has also been
used as industrial clothing. The experience gained has not always been positive
and one may justifiably ask why. As fabrics, breathable rain-protection materials
are usually waterproof. However, as soon as articles of clothing are made from
them, e.g., rain-protecting jackets or trousers, the weak points soon become
apparent. In principle, the most dreaded places are the seams as a whole, the
exposed seams on the collar and shoulders in particular, as well as zip fasteners
and ventilation openings. Moreover, the sucking effects of the seam or arms, or
manufacturing errors can also cause leaks. Though difficult, it is still possible,
however, to manufacture excellent products which, in a state as new can also
withstand a prolonged cloudburst in the rain tower.
The EMPA (Swiss Federal Laboratories for Materials Testing and Research) is
actively involved in both national and international research, and participates in
various different ISO, CEN, ASTM and Swiss national committees. Such norms
serve to standardize test procedures. Results from differing test institutes are
only truly comparable under the same experimental conditions. Standards should
not only be developed to be easy to use but also, much more importantly, to be
relevant to the demands in practice. As an impartial research institute, EMPA
provides the scientific basis and the technical knowledge for standardisation work
to assist Swiss trade and industry in maintaining and improving its market
position.
Watertightness
In general, this property is proven and assessed with the hydrostatic pressure
(water column) method according to ISO 811,Textile fabrics Determination of
resistance to water penetration Hydrostatic pressure test. In view of its simple
application and good reproducibility, this method is extremely popular.
Nevertheless, it does raise some critical questions when it is considered more
closely. Is it justifiable to select a method merely on the basis of its good
reproducibility and relatively simple application? How does this method work in
practice and how relevant are the results to actual use?
According to ISO 811, materials with a hydrostatic head of more than150 cm can
be designated, in general, as rainproof. In the advertising field, however, the
manufacturers of rain-protection materials outbid each other with hydrostatic
heads of 80 m and more. But the materials are stressed with a static water
pressure of only 2-3 mm in use. Rain is a dynamic and not a static process.
All these questions and problems induced EMPA to take a closer look at the
subjects of rain- and watertightness. This soon led them to the conclusion that
new, more practice-related test methods were necessary. During the past years,
various new models have been developed and applied to test and assess the
rain- and watertightness of materials and ready-made garments. These test
methods and the results of numerous measurements are described and
discussed in this article.
Parts of the body like the elbow, knee or shoulders are sometimes subject to
mechanical stress when a rucksack is carried on the back. This has a direct
influence on the watertightness of a material. The milling/squeezing test
apparatus, with which the penetration of water under mechanical pressure can
be measured, was developed to determine this effect metrologically.
Rain test with high impact velocity of the water drops (up to 145 km/h)
There are numerous applications where raindrops are projected onto a garment
at a high velocity, e.g. by motor cycling or strong winds. These are highly
dynamic processes and have to be considered differently. A new apparatus (see
Figure 1) has been developed in which a sample is mounted on a moving arm
turning at a peripheral speed that can be varied to anywhere between 0 and 145
km/h. This apparatus is placed in the rain tower and subjected to rainfall from a
height of over 10 m. The water penetrating the sample is absorbed by blotting
paper, which is weighed prior to and after the test.
With this test, 17 pins (Type 110/18) are pressed through a sample with a
diameter of 13 cm at a defined speed of 1000 mm/ min. Watertightness is tested
according to Bundesmann prior to and after the penetration of the pin. The
reduction in watertightness as a result of the defined damage is a dimension for
the receptive type¬ù of the material as concerns damage. The next stage of the
test can be performed once the fabric is in order again.
Several European test institutes are already working with a rain tower¬ù. Larger
companies as well as military institutions employ rain towers. Their operators
have now joined forces and developed a draft norm in CEN/TC 162 WG4 PG1,
which is now in the initial inquiry stage.
A cotton vest is put on the manikin underneath the jacket. The water absorbed by
the vest changes the electrical conduction, and is registered as water penetration
by the sensors. Furthermore, on completion of the measurement (i.e., normally
after rain for one hour), the wet area of the vest is assessed visually. The jacket
is then rated from 1 to 5, depending on the size of the wet area. Three jackets
per type are measured, and the mean value of the wet area indicated so that the
result is not only valid for the measured jacket, but will also enable a number of
conclusions to be drawn for each respective type. Any visible damage is noted
explicitly in the test report. It is not expedient to test only one jacket per sample
type. In principle, at least three jackets should be tested to obtain reasonable
statistical and conclusive evidence. If only one of the jackets leaks, it is possible
that it has suffered damage during transport, and can tell us very little about its
quality. three tested jackets leak, it must be assumed that the quality of the jacket
is imperfect and has to be improved.
The intensity of the rain and the time factor, i.e. how long a person can remain
outdoors by a specific rain intensity, have a decisive influence on the choice of
the rain protection material for a particular activity.
Breathability of clothing
In the case of winter clothing, where there is normally a lack of warmth, the wet
moisture should extract as little energy as possible during short-term physical
activities. It should be transported quickly in a wet state to the next layers,
because the body will be at rest again within a few minutes, and should not be
cooled any further at this stage. In case of activities in more moderate climates,
e.g. when walking in an ambient temperature of 15', the wet sweat secreted by
the body should be transformed efficiently into cooling energy. The better the
evaporation cooling, the less the body has to perspire and thus the more efficient
it is. The so-called post exercise chill¬ù is a very important factor, i.e., the
moisture remaining in the clothing after a physical effort continues to cool the
body until that moisture is transported away from the layers close to the skin.
Cotton, for example, has a long post-chilling effect, because the moisture
absorbed evaporates only slowly. Polyester, on the other hand, has a relatively
short cooling time, and is therefore better for use in sweat-producing activities
than cotton.
Whereas only absolutely watertight and water-vapour- tight coatings were used
in the past, breathable materials are employed very often nowadays. In case of
very strenuous physical activities, a relatively large quantity of wet sweat has to
be exuded in order to cool the body sufficiently.
The transport of heat and moisture in practice is very complex, and can actually
only be investigated using methods that exhibit boundary conditions similar to
those in actual use. During the last ten years, EMPA has developed new
methods for testing the simultaneous transport of heat and moisture in clothing
materials.
Satisfying comfort of wear, however, does not depend necessarily on the rapid
expulsion of all the moisture. Depending on the situation, intermediate storage in
layers away from the skin, for example, can also be sufficient (as for shooting
jackets or NBC suits).
Wet-protection clothing
The so-called highly breathable coatings or special fabrics are used if the
particular field of application does not call for 100% watertightness.
These materials have an even thinner coating than those used for the customary
laminates, and the seams are frequently and intentionally not sealed. In case of
very strenuous physical activities, a relatively large quantity of wet sweat has to
be exuded in order to cool the body sufficiently. A certain feeling or wetness will
be sensed nevertheless, because of the resulting quantity of moisture, but here
protection against overheating is more important than the feeling of wetness.
To be on the safe side, the best weather protection and the highest breathability
are frequently required. However, the fact that one has to pay dearly for all these
positive characteristics is frequently over-looked.
The so-called highly breathable coatings or special fabrics are used if the
particular field of application does not call for 100% water- tightness.
The protection against wind and weather, even with used materials, takes priority
over good breathability. It is not much help to the wearer if he has agreeable
wear-comfort in dry weather, but always gets wet when it rains.