The need for proper

classification of fabrics

By:
Prof: D. V. Muniswamy
 The need for proper classification of fabrics
By: Prof: D. V. Muniswamy

Abstract

Textile Industry has spread all over the world, of which fabric manufacture is the most important segment
both in spread and variety. Efforts have been made to classify fabrics from different viewpoints, viz.,
Consumer, Trader, Manufacturer, Technologists, Engineers and Standards.

From Consumer’s viewpoints, fabrics are classified earlier as:

i) Apparel
ii) Household
iii) Industrial.

This classification is subsequently modified as:

i) Apparel
ii) a) Bedding b) Home textiles
iii) Technical textiles, which include:
a) Mobile textiles
b) Geo textiles
c) Construction textiles
d) Industrial textiles
e) Medical textiles
f) Safety textiles
g) Smart or Intelligent textiles, etc.

From the Trader’s viewpoint, fabrics are classified according to specific Trade/ Brand names. From the
Manufacturer’s viewpoint, fabrics are classified according to the method of manufacture as: i) Woven a)
Hand loom b) Power loom c) Khadi ii) Knitted a) Warp knit b) Weft knit iv) Embroidery v) Lace vi) Crochet,
etc.

From the Technologist’s viewpoint, fabrics are classified as: i) Structure ii) Texture. From the Engineer’s
viewpoint, fabrics are classified into: i) Width/Breadth, ii) Length, iii) Yarn size, iv) Weight, v) Thickness, vi)
Setting, vii) Face. From Standard’s viewpoint, fabrics are classified as i) Set, ii) Weight, iii) Strength, iv)
Condition, v) Application or End use. There is the possibility of overlapping of fabric characteristics under
these different viewpoints.

In the present paper, it is proposed to have a universally- acceptable classification of fabrics based not on
aesthetic characteristics which involve subjective assessment, but on verifiable characteristics which involve
the determination of the following characteristics:- i) Type/Variety, ii) Materials-used, iii) Weave, iv) Yarn
Numbers (N1, N2,Na), v) Loom set a)Reed (R), b) Pick wheel (P), vi) Threads (n1, n2,T), vii) Width [Reed
Width (RW), Cloth Width (B)], viii) Crimp % (c1, c2) ix) Diameter (d1, d2, β), x) Thickness (G), xi) Weight (W
W′), xii) Cover Factors (K1, K2 Kc, FQI), xiii) Weight Factors (w1, w2, w, w1/w2), xiv) Length/unit weight ( Y,
Y′), xv) Effective Length/unit weight of fabric (BYT, BMT).

Based upon the above characteristics, it is possible to set up norms for the following characteristics under
different groups i)Fabric Weight (W, W′), ii) Average Count (Na), Setting (Warp, Weft, Fabric), iii) Face, iv)
Fabric Thickness, v) Effective Length / unit weight of fabric (BYT, BMT), vi) Fabric Condition, vii) End use.
Each fabric can be classified according to the above classification and certificate issued by an authorized
organization. Illustrative examples are given to show how this classification can be implemented.

Among the three characteristics of Fabric Weight, Average count and Effective length/unit weight of fabric.
Fabric weight is used in cost calculation and average count is used for levying excise and other duties.
However; from Consumer’s viewpoint, costing of fabrics needs to be done based on effective length/unit
weight of fabric, since its value varies even for the same fabric weight and fabrics are sold by length
overwhelming and only in certain cases they are sold by weight. In Technical textiles there is absolute
necessity for proper classification of fabrics on functional basis.
Introduction

Textile Industry is next in importance to Agriculture, since it is the second largest provider of employment. It
has spread far and wide in the world, of which fabric manufacture occupies the most important segment in
both breadth and variety. From India the export of fabrics is estimated to fetch US $ 17 billion and export of
readymade garments to fetch US $ 34 billion by 2011-12. There is severe competition among exporting
countries to increase their share in the world market for textiles and apparels. In view of the appreciation of
the value of Rupee against US $, it has become increasingly difficult to face the stiff competition among the
exporting countries.

The present paper is confined to classification of fabrics.

Definition of fabric:

The term ‘fabric’ is derived from the Latin term ‘fabrica’ meaning fabric or workshop. It means that which is
put together like fabric or building. In fabric engineering, ‘fabric’ is defined as a flat material with length (L),
Breadth (B), Thickness (G) and having weight. While volumetric density of fabric can be determined from
′
these parameters, it is customary to evaluate the aerial density of fabric (W or W ) in terms of oz/sq, yd. or
gsm.

Classification of Fabrics:

Fabrics may be classified in different ways, viz,

Utility:
(i) Apparel, (ii) Household (iii) Industrial, which is modified as:

(i) Apparel (a) Outer wear, (b) Inner wear, (c) Seasonal wear, (d) Staple wear, (e) Fancy wear.
Household (a) Bedding, (b) Home textiles.

Technical textiles (a) Mobile textiles, (b) Geo textiles, (c) Construction textiles, (d) Industrial textiles, (e)
Medical textiles, (f) Safety textiles, (g) Smart or Intelligent textiles, (h) High-altitude textiles, (i)
Mountaineering textiles, (j) Outer space textiles, (k) Military textiles, (l) Agriculture textiles, (m) Horticulture
textiles, (n) Sericulture textiles, (o) Dairy textiles., (p) Fishery textiles, etc.

Method of manufacture as:

i. Woven (a) Hand loom, (b) Power loom, (c) Khadi.

ii. Knitted (a) Hand knitted, (b) Machine knitted, (c) Wrap knits, (d) Weft knits.
iii. Embroidery (a) Hand embroidery, (b) Machine embroidery.
iv. Lace (a) Hand- made, (b) Machine- made.
v. Braiding (a) Personal wear, (b) Industrial, (c) Oceanic.
vi. Crochet.
vii. Tatting.
viii. Knotting.
ix. Netting.
x. Felting.
xi. No-weaving, etc.

Materials used as:

(i) Natural, (ii) Man-made, (iii) Blends.

4. Yarns used as:

(i) Filament (mono/multi), (ii) Spun (single/folded/cable/fancy).

5. Fabric condition as:

(i) Grey/Greige / Loomstate, (ii) Finished: a) Scoured, b) Bleached, c) Dyed, d) Printed, e) Mercerized, f)
Stentered, g) Calendered, h) Sanforized/Zero-Zero finished, i) Sized, j) Glazed, k) Etched/Embossed, l)
Felted, m) Raised, n) Sheared, o) Gassed/Singed, p) Fire-proofed, q) Schreinered, r) Soil-resistant, s) Soil-
release, t) Stain-resistant, u) Anti-crease, etc.
 6. Trade or Brand names such as:
(i) Poplin, (ii) Shirting, (iii) Cambric, (iv) Lawn, (v) Voile, (vi) Crepe, (vii) Jean, (viii) Denim, (ix) Gabardine, (x)
Sheeting, (xi) Long cloth, (xii) Twill, (xiii) Drill, (xiv) Tussore, (xv) Mull, (xvi) Muslin, (xvii) Damask, (xviii)
Brocade, (xix) Georgette, (xx) Satin, (xxi) Plain, (xxii) Flannel, (xxiii) Blanket, (xxiv) Rug, (xxv) Broadcloth,
(xxvi) Duck, (xxvii) Canvas, (xxviii) Velvet, (xxix) Corduroy, (xxx) Toweling (xxxi) Turkish Toweling, etc.

7. From Technologist’s viewpoint as:

(i) Structure (a) Weave/Nature of interlacement, (b) Knitting/Nature of interloping, etc. (ii) Texture/Nature of
construction.

8. From Engineer’s viewpoint as:

(i) Breadth or width, (ii) Length, (iii) Yarn size, (iv) Setting: (a) Warp, (b) Weft, (v) Weight, (vi) Fabric
Thickness, (vii) Fabric face, (viii) Fabric cover.

9. From Standard’s viewpoint as:

(i) Construction, (ii) Weight, (iii) Strength, (iv) Condition, (v) Application or End use.

It may be noted that there is the possibility of overlapping of characteristics under the different methods of
classification of fabrics.

At present, customers are carried away by aesthetic sense involving look, colour, feel, etc. and, ultimately,
cost of fabric.

In the present paper, intrinsic quality of fabric is emphasized, leading to durability. Accordingly, fabrics are
classified under the following categories:

1. Fabric Weight

CLASS W (oz/ sq.yd) W' (gsm)

LIGHT WEIGHT L1 <1 < 33.91

L2 1~2 33.91 ~ 67.8
L3 2~3 67.8 ~ 101.7
L4 3~4 101.7 ~ 135.6
MEDIUM WEIGHT M1 4~5 135.6 ~ 169.5
M2 5~6 169.5 ~ 203.4
M3 6~7 203.4 ~ 237.3
M4 7~8 237.3 ~ 271.2
H1 8~9 271.2 ~ 305.2
HEAVY WEIGHT
H2 9~10 305.2 ~ 339.1
H3 10~11 339.1 ~ 373.0
H4 11~12 373.0 ~ 406.9
H5 >12 > 406.9

2. Average Count (Na)

CLASS COUNT (Ne) RANGE

C1 < 4.29
COARSE COUNT
C2 4.29 ~ 7.14
C3 7.14 ~ 10.71
C4 10.71 ~ 14.29
C5 14.29 ~ 17.86
MEDIUM COUNT M1 17.86 ~ 21.43
M2 21.43 ~ 25.00
M3 25.00 ~ 35.71
MEDIUM FINE COUNT MF1 35.71 ~ 47.62
MF2 47.62 ~ 59.52
 FINE COUNT F1 59.52 ~ 71.43
F2 71.43 ~ 95.24
EXTRA FINE COUNT EF1 95.24 ~119.05
EF2 119.05~142.86
EF3 142.86~190.48

3. Cover Factor (K)

CLASS K RANGE

TOO OPENLY SET <5

OPENLY SET 5 ~ 11
CLOSELY SET 11 ~ 18
TOO CLOSELY SET > 18

4. Fabric Cover

CLASS Kc RANGE FQI RANGE

TOO OPENLY SET < 0.3260 < 0.3111

OPENLY SET 0.3260 ~ 0.6326 0.3111 ~ 0.6832
CLOSELY SET 0.6326 ~ 0.8736 0.6832 ~ 1.1180
TOO CLOSELY SET > 0.8736 > 1.1180

5. Weight Factor Ratio (w1/w2)

CLASS w1/w2 RANGE

WEFT FACED < 0.7656

APPROX. EQUAL FACED 0.7656 ~ 1.2656
PERFECTLY EQUAL FACED 1.0000
WARP FACED > 1.2656

6. Fabric Thickness

CLASS G (mils) G' (mm)

THIN < 9.57 < 0.24

MEDIUM THICK 9.57 ~ 17.37 0.24 ~ 0.44
THICK 17.37 ~ 39.37 0.44 ~ 1.00
TOO THICK > 39.37 > 1.00

7. Effective Length/Unit Weight Of Fabric

GROUP BYT RANGE BMT RANGE

1 Up to 3600 Up to 7260
2 3601 to 6000 7261 to 12099
3 6001 to 9000 12100 to 18148
4 9001 to 12000 18149 to 24196
5 12001 to 15000 24197 to 30245
6 15001 to 18000 30246 to 36294
7 18001 to 21000 36295 to 42343
8 21001 to 30000 42344 to 60490
9 30001 to 40000 60491 to 80653
 10 40001 to 50000 80654 to 100816
11 50001 to 60000 100817 to 120978
12 60001 to 80000 120979 to 161304
13 80001 to 100000 161305 to 201630
14 100001 to 120000 201631 to 241956
15 120001 to 160000 241957 to 322606

Note: All the above factors can be evaluated using formulae given in the Appendix.
Six examples are given to illustrate how the proposed scheme of classification can be implemented,
irrespective of material, weave, condition and/or end use of fabrics.

Sr. No. CHARACTERISTIC EXAMPLE (1) EXAMPLE (2)

1 Variety Sheeting (26s ) Sheeting (26s )

2 Material Cotton X Cotton Cotton X Cotton
3 Weave Plain Plain
4 Warp yarn Number. (N1) 21s (Ne) 26s (Ne)
5 Weft yarn Number. (N2) 25s (Ne) 26s (Ne)
6 Average count (Na) 23.3s (Ne) 24.9s (Ne)
7 Reed count( R ) 40s (Stockport) 42s (Stockport)
8 Pick wheel (P) 33 (Teeth) 37 (Teeth)
9 Ends / in. (n1) 42 44
10 Picks / in. (n2) 36 40
11 Threads / sq. in. (T) 78 84
12 Warp crimp (c1) 9.09% 8.11%
13 Weft crimp (c2) 5.00% 4.77%
14 Reed width (RW) 37.8 in 37.7 in.
15 Cloth width (B) 36 in 36 in.
16 Warp yarn diameter (d1) 7.63 mils 7.31 mils
17 Weft yarn diameter (d2) 7.16 mils 7.02 mils
18 Beta ratio (d2/d1) 0.94 0.96
19 Fabric Thickness (G) 14.8 mils 14.33 mils
20 Fabric Weight (W) 2.4648 oz/sq.yd. 2.4642 oz/sq.yd.
21 Fabric Weight (W1) 83.6 gsm 83.6 gsm
22 Warp cover factor (K1) 8.95 8.98
23 Weft cover factor (K2) 7.2 7.84
24 Fabric cover (Kc) 0.4957 0.5017
25 Fabric quality index (FQI) 0.5121 0.5226
26 Warp weight factor (w1) 1.91 1.83
27 Weft weight factor (w2) 1.46 1.54
28 Cloth weight factor (W) 0.733 0.7308
29 Weight factor ratio (w1/w2) 1.33 1.19
30 Linear Yd./ lb (Y) 6.49 6.49
31 Effective yd/lb (BYT) 18227 19635
Classification
1 Fabric weight class Light (L2) Light (L2)
2 Average count class Medium (M1) Medium (M2)
3 Warp setting class open open
4 Weft setting class open open
5 Fabric setting class open open
6 Fabric face class warp equal
7 Fabric thickness class Medium Thick Medium Thick
 8 Fabric group 7 7
9 Fabric condition Grey Grey

Sr. No. CHARACTERISTIC EXAMPLE (3) EXAMPLE (4)

1 Variety Sheeting (26s ) Sheeting (26s )

2 Material Cotton X Cotton Cotton X Cotton
3 Weave Plain Plain
4 Warp yarn Number. (N1) 24s (Ne) 22s (Ne)
5 Weft yarn Number. (N2) 24s (Ne) 26s (Ne)
6 Average count (Na) 24s (Ne) 23.7s (Ne)
7 Reed count( R ) 52s (Stockport) 40s (Stockport)
8 Pick wheel (P) 51 (Teeth) 35 (Teeth)
9 Ends / in. (n1) 58 44
10 Picks / in. (n2) 56 38
11 Threads / sq. in. (T) 114 82
12 Warp crimp (c1) 9.80% 8.51%
13 Weft crimp (c2) 11.54% 10.00%
14 Reed width (RW) 41.0 in. 39.6 in.
15 Cloth width (B) 35.5 in. 36 in.
16 Warp yarn diameter (d1) 7.31 mils 7.63 mils
17 Weft yarn diameter (d2) 7.31 mils 7.02 mils
18 Beta ratio (d2/d1) 1 0.92
19 Fabric Thickness (G) 14.62 mils 14.66 mils
20 Fabric Weight (W) 3.6041 oz/sq.yd. 2.5913 oz/sq.yd.
21 Fabric Weight (W1) 12.2 gsm 87.9 gsm
22 Warp cover factor (K1) 11.84 9.38
23 Weft cover factor (K2) 11.43 7.45
24 Fabric cover (Kc) 0.6597 0.5131
25 Fabric quality index (FQI) 0.7229 0.5285
26 Warp weight factor (w1) 2.42 2
27 Weft weight factor (w2) 2.33 1.46
28 Cloth weight factor (W) 1.04 1.37
29 Weight factor ratio (w1/w2) 0.7588 0.7486
30 Linear Yd./ lb (Y) 4.5 6.17
31 Effective yd/lb (BYT) 18,219 18227
Classification
1 Fabric weight class Light (L4) Light (L3)
2 Average count class Medium (M2) Medium (M2)
3 Warp setting class close open
4 Weft setting class close open
5 Fabric setting class close open
6 Fabric face class equal warp
7 Fabric thickness class Medium Thick Medium Thick
8 Fabric group 7 7
9 Fabric condition Grey Grey

Sr. No. CHARACTERISTIC EXAMPLE (5) EXAMPLE (6)

1 Variety Sheeting (26s) Sheeting (26s)

2 Material Cotton X Cotton Cotton X Cotton
3 Weave Plain Plain
4 Warp yarn Number. (N1) 32s (Ne) 24.5s (Ne)
5 Weft yarn Number. (N2) 21.5s (Ne) 30s (Ne)
6 Average count (Na) 26.0s (Ne) 26.8s (Ne)
7 Reed count( R ) 36s (Stockport) 40s (Stockport)
8 Pick wheel (P) 33 (Teeth) 37 (Teeth)
9 Ends / in. (n1) 40 44
10 Picks / in. (n2) 36 40
11 Threads / sq. in. (T) 76 84
12 Warp crimp (c1) 9.09% 8.11%
13 Weft crimp (c2) 11.11% 10.00%
14 Reed width (RW) 44.4 in. 63.8 in.
15 Cloth width (B) 40 in. 58 in.
16 Warp yarn diameter (d1) 6.33 mils 7.23 mils
17 Weft yarn diameter (d2) 7.72 mils 6.54 mils
18 Beta ratio (d2/d1) 1.22 0.9
19 Fabric Thickness (G) 14.05 mils 13.71 mils
20 Fabric Weight (W) 2.2146 oz/sq.yd. 2.3370 oz/sq.yd.
21 Fabric Weight (W1) 75.1 gsm 79.2 gsm
22 Warp cover factor (K1) 7.07 8.89
23 Weft cover factor (K2) 7.76 7.3
24 Fabric cover (Kc) 0.4608 0.4965
25 Fabric quality index (FQI) 0.4607 0.5029
26 Warp weight factor (w1) 1.25 1.8
27 Weft weight factor (w2) 1.67 1.33
28 Cloth weight factor (W) 0.7573 0.7468
29 Weight factor ratio (w1/w2) 0.75 1.35
30 Linear Yd./ lb (Y) 6.5 4.25
31 Effective yd/lb (BYT) 19,767 20,703
Classification
1 Fabric weight class Light (L3) Light (L3)
2 Average count class Medium (M3) Medium (M3)
3 Warp setting class open open
4 Weft setting class open open
5 Fabric setting class open open
6 Fabric face class Weft Warp
7 Fabric thickness class Medium Thick Medium Thick
8 Fabric group 7 7
9 Fabric condition Grey Grey
Conclusions

1. Classification based on aesthetic aspects of fabrics is subjective and may vary from person to person.
2. Classification based on objective assessment is reliable, as it is backed by actual test results or figures
arrived at by the use of appropriate formulae, since it is verifiable.
3. Classification is recommended for i) Fabric weight, ii) Average Count, iii) Warp set, iv) Weft set, v) Fabric
set, vi) Fabric face, vii) Fabric thickness, viii) Fabric Group.
This method of fabric classification may be universally adopted by different Standards organizations,
Manufacturers and Traders for the benefit of Consumers.
4. While Average Count is adopted for taxation purposes, fabric weight is adopted for costing purposes. But,
it is preferable to adopt effective length/unit weight of fabric for costing purposes, since fabrics are mostly
sold by linear measure.
5. In the case of Technical textiles, it is necessary for the proper classification of fabrics on functional basis:
as such, the classification suggested in the present paper may be invariably adopted here also.

Appendix

The following formulae are used in calculating the various characteristics given in the paper:

1 Na = T/ (w1+ w2) Where

2 R = n1 / (1+ c2) Na = Average count
3 P = n2 / (1+c1) T = Sum of Threads / sq.in.
4 n1 = R(1+c2) w1 = Warp weight factor
5 n2 = P(1+c1) W2 = Weft weight factor
6 T = n1 + n2 R = Reed count (Stockport)
7 c1 = 1-(n2/P) P = Pick wheel (Teeth)
8 c2 = 1-(n1/R) n1 = Ends/inch
9 RW = B(1+c2) n2 = Picks/inch
10 B = RW/ (1+c2) c1 = Warp Crimp
11 d1 = 35.8063/√N1 c2 = Weft Crimp
12 d2 = 35.8063/√N2 B = Cloth Width, in.
13 β ratio = d1/d2=√N1/N2 RW = Reed Width, in.
14 G = d1+d2 d1 = Warp yarn diameter, mils
15 W = 0.6857[w1(1+c1)+w2(1+c2)] d2 = Weft yarn diameter, mils
16 W' = 33.90608 W G = Fabric thickness, mils
17 K1 = n1/√N1 W = Fabric Weight, oz/sq.yd.
18 K2 = n2/√N2 w1 = Fabric Weight, gsm
19 Kc = [(K1/27.93)+(K2/27.93) - (K1+K2)/780] K1 = Warp cover factor
20 FQI = (K1+K2)/32.2 K2 = Weft cover factor
21 w1 = n1/N1 Kc = Fabric Cover
22 w2 = n2/N2 FQI = Fabric Quality Index
23 w = W/(w1+w2) w = Cloth Weight factor
24 BY = 576/W Y = Linear yd/lb of fabric
25 Y = BY/B Y' = Linear meters/kg of fabric
26 BYT = (BY)T BYT = Effective yd/lb of fabric
27 BMT = 2.01629 BYT BMT = Effective meters/kg of fabric.
28 Y' = 2.01629 Y
29 1mil = 1/1000 in. = 0.0254 mm
30 1mm = 1/1000 m = 39.37 mils
31 1 inch = 2.54 cm
32 1metre = 1.0936 yd
33 1lb = 453.6 g
34 1oz = 28.35 g
References:

1. Muniswamy D V, “Hand Book of Cotton Fabrics”, (Under Preparation).

2. Muniswamy D V, “Rayon Fabrics”.
3. Muniswamy D V, “Know Your Fabrics”.
4. Muniswamy D V, “Classification of Fabrics – A New Approach”, Vasana, Vol. 1, 2006.
5. Graham Clark W A, “Clark’s Weave Room Calculations” 3rd Edition, 1949.
6. Ball H J, “Engineering Design of Textile Structures”, 1960-61.
7. Louis I Parts I & II, “Textile Fabric Design Tables”.
8. Robinson, A.T.C, and Marks R, “Woven Cloth Construction”, Reprinted 1973.

About the Author:

The author is the former Principal in GSKSJJ Institute, Bangalore and a Visiting Professor, ATM, BU, CCC,
Bangalore.

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