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St.

Paul Underground
Stahlmann’s Cellars: The Cave Under the Castle

Greg A. Brick
Between the mid-1840s and 1870, Ger- ST. PAUL in 1855, and erected his brew- annual production of 10,000 barrels by
man immigrants to the United States ery the same year. He was a member of the late 1870s. By 1884, his production
brought with them their traditional fond- the House of Representatives in 1871 and peaked at 40,000 barrels per year, but by
ness for beer, which had not previously in 1883; was [Ramsey] County Commis- that time Stahlmann was no longer in first
been of great importance in this country, sioner in 1871, and held several other place.9
where harder liquors were usually pre- minor offices.” Describing Stahlmann’s As the name “Cave Brewery” sug-
ferred—something that has been called commercial enterprises in more detail, gests,10 Stahlmann carved an extensive
the “beer invasion.”1 Ironically, this inva- Newson wrote that “In early days he lagering cave, still known as “Stahl-
sion was apparently facilitated not only went out to what was known as the old mann’s Cellars,” below the brewery. A
by the burgeoning German population, Fort road, now [West] Seventh street, and newspaper reporter, in 1877, described
but also by temperance agitation, which purchased several acres of land there and the cave during its heyday:
originally focused largely on “ardent spir- built his brewery thereon. These acres
Armed with candles, and conducted by Mr.
its,” leading many Americans to choose were then considered away out of the
Stahlman, the visiting party started down,
the less potent beverage.2 city, but are now within the city limits
down into the bowels of the earth; down
Prior to 1840, there were no breweries and very valuable.”7 Stahlmann was in-
through the strata of solid lime stone rock
in America producing the German-style deed “one of the greatest pioneers of the
which underlies all that section, and of
lager beer.3 Lager beer differed from the West End.”8
which the buildings are built, we went until
prevalent English and American beers, With the great growth of the beer mar-
we struck the underlying strata of sand rock,
such as ale, in that the lager yeast fer- ket following the Civil War, Stahlmann’s
fully sixty feet below the surface. Here were
mented at the bottom of the vat, rather Cave Brewery, as it was known, became
the cellars—cellars to the front, the right, the
than the top, and the beer required la- the largest brewery in Minnesota, with an
left, and the rear—in all over 5,000 feet, or
gering, or storage, for several months at
nearly a mile in length, and still the work of
lower temperatures. In the old days, lager
excavating new chambers is going on. These
beer could only be brewed during the
cellars are about 16 feet wide and ten feet
winter months, when cellar temperatures
in height. In them now are some 120 huge
were sufficiently low.4 But in northern
butts of different varieties of beer, in all over
states, such as Minnesota, where natural
3,000 barrels. The butts are in chambers, six
ice was readily available, ice cakes could
or eight in a line, each group backed by a
be harvested from nearby lakes and rivers
huge chamber of ice to keep them at proper
in winter and stacked in caves, allowing
temperature, in all over 6,000 cakes of the
brewing all year round to meet the grow-
three foot Mississippi ice now being in store.
ing demand.5
Such complete cellars, dry, fresh and clean,
In 1848 Anthony Yoerg established
we venture cannot be found elsewhere in
Minnesota’s first brewery, which pro-
America…. Fortunately Mr. Stahlman has an
duced lager beer, in St. Paul. Yoerg, like
inexhaustible supply of the purest of spring
many St. Paul brewers to come, was a na-
water. It is brought in pipes from the bluffs,
tive of Bavaria, the cradle of the German
and carried into every floor of his private
brewing industry.6 Several years later
residence, feeds the boilers, runs through his
another important brewer, Christopher
cellars, all over the brewery and malt house,
Stahlmann, arrived in the city.
and is finally discharged into a sewer with
Stahlmann’s Cave Brewery the general refuse, which is discharged into
the Mississippi through the cave.11
Thomas Newson, in his Pen Pictures
(1886), described Stahlmann thus: “He Several years later, in 1883, another ac-
was born in Bavaria in 1829; came to the Advertisement from Polk’s City Directory for count of Stahlmann’s Cellars was pro-
United States in 1846 and . . . removed to 1880/81. vided by John Land, in his Historical and
12 RAMSEY COUNTY HISTORY
daylight. We, with our guide, taper in hand, to St. Paul), making 1,400 feet of pas-
descended the first flight of stairs, and after sages.16 Additional passages, under the
meandering through their various ramifica- present brewhouse, are shown on a dif-
tions, came out to the light of day one mile ferent map, the “Sub Basement Plan,”17
from where we descended.12 but these may date to another era. The
total length of passages is more like one-
Atmospheric descriptions like these in-
half mile, rather than the mile claimed in
fluenced later writers, until Stahlmann’s
the old accounts. Even so, the Stahlmann
Cellars acquired a national and almost
maze is more extensive than any other
mythical reputation as the very type of brewery cave in Minnesota.
labyrinthine complexity, which it still However, the use of caves to trap cold
held more than a century later.13 As noted winter air or to fill with ice, for lagering,
by art historian Susan Appel, “the brew- was becoming obsolete by the 1870s,
eries with the best and most extensive when brewers began to build icehouses,
cellars became the most famous.”14 which “took the aging of lager beer out
From Frank Leslie’s Popular Monthly, 1882. Here are the facts: Stahlmann’s Cel- of caves and placed it in an aboveground
lars were carved in the St. Peter Sand- stack of ‘cellars’ cooled by a massive
stone, with the bottom of the overlying body of ice at the top of the building.”
Platteville Limestone left to form a flat The construction of icehouses bypassed
Descriptive Review of the Industries of
ceiling. The cave is located from 20 to 30 the arduous task of underground excava-
St. Paul:
feet below street level by actual measure- tion. And with the widespread adoption
It takes three-quarters of an hour constantly ment, rather than 60 feet.15 And there’s of mechanical refrigeration in the 1880s,
walking to traverse these subterranean cav- only one level, despite what Land’s de- ice-making machines freed brewers from
erns, or rooms. The works under ground cost scription might suggest. The passage dependence on natural ice with its uncer-
$50,000, and are more wonderful in their dimensions given, “16 feet wide and ten tainties of supply and price. The icehouse
aptitude and construction than the building feet in height,” are about right. A partial thus evolved into a mechanically refrig-
above the ground, and where the most of the map of the cave, dated 1884, was copied erated stock house, where temperatures
work is done. It is a perfect labyrinth of rooms onto sewer plats, and it shows two grids could be even more scientifically con-
and cellars, and under cellars three deep, re- of passages meshing at an angle. One trolled. Eventually, mechanical refrigera-
minding one of the catacombs of Rome, for grid, somewhat irregular, is aligned with tion focused on generating cold air itself
none unacquainted with these subterranean Fort Road while the other, more rectilin- rather than ice, avoiding altogether the
vaults, without a guide, could grope their ear, is aligned with the real estate plat bulkiness and messiness of ice.18
way through them and find their way out to (Stinson, Brown, & Ramsey’s Addition Examining the 1885 Sanborn Insur-

The 1884 map of Stahlmann’s Brewery Cellars, from sewer plats. Nearby sewer tunnels are also shown. This map omits many cave passages,
such as those under the present Schmidt brewhouse. Fort Road crosses the map from left to right. For orientation, Oneida Street runs north
and south. The Stahlmann/Bremer mansion is depicted next to the word ‘BROWN.’”

RAMSEY COUNTY HISTORY 13


ance Atlas for St. Paul, I found several recently burned down, purchased Stahl- With the onset of Prohibition in 1919, the
icehouses depicted at the Cave Brewery, mann’s brewery.23 Schmidt Brewery began producing soft
indicating that Stahlmann had converted Schmidt rebuilt Stahlmann’s brewery drinks and a successful near-beer named
to the newer refrigeration method by that in 1901–02 along the Oneida Street axis, “Select.” When Prohibition was repealed
year. These icehouses were built during with the help of Chicago architect Ber- in 1933, Schmidt resumed the production
the reconstruction of the Cave Brewery nard Barthel, who employed “the feudal of beer and within three years claimed
in the early 1880s.19 The lagering caves castle style.”24 By this time, progres- to be the seventh largest brewery in the
were thereafter abandoned. sive brewers regarded the use of caves United States.27 After several changes
Another factor favoring the abandon- for lagering as a sign of backwardness. in ownership, involving acquisition by
ment of lagering caves was the desire for In 1901, for example, Schmidt’s chief Detroit-based Pfeiffer’s in 1955 and
cleaner facilities, following in the wake local competitor ran a newspaper adver- LaCrosse-based Heilemann’s in 1972,
of Pasteur’s research into the so-called tisement boasting, “The only brewery in Schmidt ultimately became Landmark
“diseases” of beer.20 The Fort Street St. Paul that has a modern refrigerating Brewery in 1991, operated by the Minne-
Sewer (as it is referred to in the original plant is Hamm’s Brewery. Beer is stored sota Brewing Company. The new owners
contracts) was carved under Stahlmann’s in rooms kept at a temperature of 35 de- considered giving tours of the underlying
Cellars in 1884 and intersects it at several grees. Light, pure air and absolute clean-
points. As seen today, this sanitary sewer caves at the time,28 but nothing became
liness help to make the beer pure and
has an impact on the cave, into which it of the plan.
wholesome. No dark, ill-ventilated caves;
sometimes overflows. It’s therefore un- According to architectural historian
temperature unchangeable and ventila-
likely that the cave was used much after Paul Clifford Larson, who conducted
tion perfect. Insist on getting the hon-
1884, despite Land’s account from the estly brewed HAMM’S BEER. Annual a study of the Schmidt Brewery, “The
year before. Indeed, the Stahlmann Cave capacity, 500,000 barrels.”25 Schmidt, brewery industry was also a key player in
Brewery was incorporated as the Chris whose North Star Brewery had depended the emergence of St. Paul from each of
Stahlmann Brewing Company in 1884— on lagering caves at Dayton’s Bluff, in- the major economic depressions between
without the cave moniker.21 troduced mechanical refrigeration at the 1875 and 1930…. The vigorous activity
A further consideration, unique to Stahlmann location. A 1901 article in a of the brewing industry at the turn of
Stahlmann’s Cellars, is that there has trade publication, reviewing Schmidt’s the century occurred in spite of a grow-
been extensive ceiling collapse, leaving new facility, reported that “the refrigerat- ing temperance movement in the state.
a roller-coaster floor, so the cave isn’t a ing machine . . . is furnished by the Fred Newspaper articles celebrating St. Paul’s
good place to store anything. The collapse W. Wolf Co., of Chicago.”26 emergence from the economic depression
has been attributed partly to “vibrations Jacob Schmidt died in 1910, but his listed every leading industry but the one
from above”22 and indeed, I observed able business partner, Adolf Bremer, that had made the most investment.”29
that the passages completely truncated together with the latter’s brother, Otto, Indeed, brewing, a major local employer,
by collapse are the ones that extend under made the brewery one of the leading has been called “the West End’s oldest
Fort Road, a major commercial artery. regional beer producers in the country. and most dominant industry.”30
The Schmidt Brewery
Today, however, St. Paulites are more fa-
miliar with the Cave Brewery’s successor,
the great Schmidt Brewery, which towers
over the Fort Road neighborhood like a
magnificent, red-brick Rhenish castle.
Jacob Schmidt was born in Bavaria in
1845 and learned his craft at Milwaukee’s
famous breweries and elsewhere, ending
up at the North Star Brewery on St. Paul’s
Dayton’s Bluff, which he effectively con-
trolled by 1884. Meanwhile, Christopher
Stahlmann had succumbed to “inflamma-
tion of the bowels” in 1883, leaving the
Cave Brewery in the hands of his compe-
tent sons, all of whom tragically perished,
however, one after another, from tubercu-
losis, causing the brewery to go bankrupt
in 1897. In 1900, Schmidt, seeking to re-
place the North Star Brewery, which had A fanciful moonlight view of the Schmidt Brewery from The Book of Minnesota, 1903.

14 RAMSEY COUNTY HISTORY


Stahlmann’s Cellars Today generated from trade wastes at cascade
I explored Stahlmann’s Cellars with fel- points in the sewers. The function of the
low cavers in November 1999. We tra- copious slime is to absorb and concen-
versed the extensive sanitary sewer laby- trate nutritive substances from the atmo-
rinth under the Fort Road neighborhood, sphere.32 Ethyl alcohol was found to be
which connects with the cave. Carved in especially conducive to slime formation,
the sandrock in the late nineteenth cen- and the role of the fungus is to provide
tury, this labyrinth consists of thirty miles a physical surface on which the bacterial
of narrow walking passages, and navi- slime producers can proliferate.33 One re-
gating the countless look-alike intersec- searcher dubbed them “alcoholic slimes,”
tions could be tricky without a compass. which seems to fit best.34 The brewery
The Fort Street Sewer, mentioned above, waste, which splashed into the Palace
Avenue Sewer from pipes, had plenty of
forms the backbone of this labyrinth.31
opportunity to generate aerosols. Indeed,
We entered the great sandrock laby-
at one point there was a crude shaft in the
rinth by walking up a stormwater outfall
sandstone, containing what appeared to
at Ross Island on the Mississippi River,
be a beer waterfall—probably leakage
and crawling through a small pipe into from above.
the sanitary side—something no longer We found evidence that others, in the
possible owing to St. Paul’s sewer sepa- Beer waste draining into the Palace Avenue
Sewer, 1999. distant past, may also have witnessed this
ration program, which has sealed the ghastly spectacle. In a nearby side-tunnel
connection. Once inside the labyrinth, we under Erie Street, laborers had cemented
followed the Palace Avenue Sewer, the a horseshoe into the keystone of the sewer
main drain for brewery wastes, to get to nean pools for days before draining away, arch. Just hoping for the best?
Stahlmann’s Cellars. was beyond words. At the western end of the Palace Av-
Walking up this narrow sandrock pas- But worse was ahead. We came to a enue Sewer we came to the famous Stahl-
sage for the first time, I heard a rush of passage lined with quivering jelly stalac- mann’s Cellars. I slithered from a small
water in the darkness ahead and saw a tites, up to a foot long, dangling from the clay pipe into the enormous black void.
shimmering white ghost advancing to- vaults above. I found out later that the My light illuminated a primeval forest of
ward me. Within seconds, a torrent of “jelly” is in fact well known to sanitation colossal yellow brick piers, which were
beer waste had engulfed my waders and engineers as “sewer slime,” or “pendant swarming with giant red cockroaches.
the frothing foam billowed up around my slime.” One such slime, examined under Rats scuttled among the breakdown slabs
legs. How high would the beer get? There the microscope by researchers, was found on the cave floor. Festoons of vapor hung
are those who would gladly drown their to be the product of a bacterial-fungal lazily in the warm, fetid air. We began to
troubles in drink, but this wasn’t what I combination that secreted a substance sweat profusely, and removed our coats.
had in mind! The vile odor of the brewery called “zoogleal matrix.” The dual organ- While there were isolated patches of
sewer, where beer sat around in subterra- ism derived its sustenance from aerosols slime in the cave itself they were nothing

Jelly stalactites in the Palace Avenue Sewer, 1999. After the brewery Colossal brick piers hold up the cave ceiling below the Schmidt brew-
shut down, these living organisms died off. house. Photo by Andrew Hine.

RAMSEY COUNTY HISTORY 15


Shortly after crossing this miniature
River Styx, we arrived at the largest room
in the cave, which was dubbed the Ro-
tunda, after the similar appearing room
in the Mammoth Cave of Kentucky, from
which passages radiate outwards in sev-
eral directions, just as they did here. Twin
limestone boulders sat in the center of our
Rotunda, on which we placed a lamp as a
visual reference point, exploring outward
in each direction.
The Rotunda is located under the
brewery’s Office Building. The passage
heading northeast from the Rotunda led
to a manhole, visible in the cave ceiling,
at the top of a steel ladder. Covered with
a 400-pound lid, this manhole provides
access to the cave from the basement of
the Office Building, and is the preferred
entry point to the cave for the occasional
newspaper reporter. As one such reporter
glumly commented in 1993, “Anyone
who knew anything about those caves is
long dead.”36
The passage heading southwest from
Map showing the maze of cave passages below the Schmidt brewhouse, whose outline is
the Rotunda contained the best stalactites
visible as a dashed line. The Palace Avenue Sewer and other passages have been sketched in the cave, more than a foot long and
in by an unknown hand. The black squares represent brick piers. quite drippy, forming rows along the in-
tersecting joints of the limestone ceiling.
Beyond the stalactites, a trio of vertical
like that found in the sewer we had just which contained a jumble of broken brick- well pipes passed through the cave. These
passed through. work and other detritus. At the bottom, the are the wells that supplied the much fre-
The square brick piers, the largest of pit drained by a large pipe that connected to quented pump house on Fort Road, which
which were six by six feet in size, sup- the Palace Avenue Sewer by a long, loop- dispensed free “spring water” to the pub-
ported the cave ceiling, and thus the tre- ing passage through the sandstone. I well lic for many years.37
mendous weight of the Schmidt brew- remember crawling among the rats and Stahlmann’s Cellars is such a maze
house above. The piers ran in rows, and roaches to follow this slimy passage. that we inevitably got lost, despite having
from looking at the building’s Sub Base- The chambers in the immediate vicinity left several rock cairns to mark the route,
ment Plan it can be seen that they were of the steamy cascade, a low, gloomy maze as the old polar explorers used to do.
positioned inside the cave to be directly of fermenting brickwork, felt like a sauna, Until we learned the maze better, I relied
under the load-bearing walls of the bre- reminding me of a visit to the Yampah on compass readings to navigate. Even
whouse, so it is obvious that they were Vapor Caves in Glenwood Springs, Colo- though I didn’t recognize the exact pas-
constructed after the Stahlmann era.35 rado. Schmidt-related breweriana was seen sage for regaining the Rotunda, a general
The south-trending cave passages end scattered about in some of these chambers. direction, like “head south,” using any
abruptly at a massive limestone rubble Stahlmann’s Cellars proper (as shown passage in the maze heading that way,
wall—the outer wall of the lowermost on the 1884 map) is located beyond the proved effective. Away from the sewers,
resting cellars, built as cellars on the footprint of the brewhouse and is thus de- the cave was like a beach, floored with
same level as the cave itself. void of brick piers. Following the passage clean, dry sand. Apart from old pipe runs
In 1999 the brewery was running full heading north from the brewhouse maze with deteriorated asbestos wrappings and
steam, producing Pig’s Eye Pilsner and into the main cellars, the dividing line newer PVC pipes zigzagging through the
other brands. And I mean steam—there between the two was nicely marked by maze, this part of the cave was empty.
were noisy discharges of hot wastewater a cold stream several feet wide and deep At the eastern extremity of Stahl-
from the brewhouse into the cave through that crossed from one side of the passage mann’s Cellars, a massive round arch of
a brick-rimmed hole in the ceiling sev- to the other on its way to the Fort Street limestone rubble masonry and a stairway
eral times an hour. The steaming cascade Sewer. This stream originated from the leading upwards toward Oneida Street,
splashed into a deeply eroded sandstone pit, brewhouse water well. though choked with boulders, marked a
16 RAMSEY COUNTY HISTORY
A deep pit in the sandstone below the Schmidt brewhouse The Rotunda, a large room in Stahlmann’s Cellars from which cave
formed by the discharge of wastewater over many years. Photo passages radiate in several directions. Located under the brewery’s
by Andrew Hine. Office Building. Photo by Andrew Hine.

former entrance to the cave. These are ameter of three feet, this 30-foot shaft is under the Bremer mansion and led to
not the same “STAIRS” shown on the large enough for a person to fit through, the Fort Road Sewer. We were in for a
1884 map, however, which have been but its purpose is unclear. It brought to nasty surprise, however, when some rats
lost to sight under a roof collapse pile. mind the kidnapping of Edward Bremer emerged from their burrows, squeaking
The older stairway led down into the cave by gangsters in 1934, after which the in protest at the unexpected intrusion.
from the original Stahlmann brewhouse, family reportedly dug a tunnel from the After braving the whiskered gauntlet, and
which was demolished in 1919.38 mansion to the Rathskeller across the wading down the sewer trunk lines, we
From the northern outskirts of Stahl- street.40 This tunnel, now sealed by a emerged into the open air once again. I
mann’s Cellars, a sandrock passage runs wooden door, has nothing whatever to do quarantined my rucksack upon arriving
toward the original Stahlmann mansion with the cave, however, because it runs home to forestall a potential infestation
at 855 West Seventh Street (now called on top of the Platteville Limestone layer, from insect “hitchhikers.”
the Marie Schmidt Bremer Home), an whereas the cave is below this layer. In June 2002, Landmark Brewery shut
Italianate villa that was constructed circa Could the white shaft have been an alter- down, while Gopher State Ethanol, the
1870.39 Under the mansion itself we nate route? nation’s first urban ethanol plant, which
found a mysterious shaft, its walls coated We left Stahlmann’s Cellars by a dif- had begun production at the site in April
with white flowstone, a natural mineral ferent way than we entered, following a 2000, continued in operation until May
deposit left by flowing water. With a di- 100-foot sandrock crawlway that began 2004, when it, too, shut down.41 Almost

A mysterious shaft, coated with white flowstone, connects


A collapsed stairway inside Stahlmann’s Cellars. Stahlmann’s Cellars with the Marie Schmidt Bremer Home above.

RAMSEY COUNTY HISTORY 17


Cave passage leading off from the Rotunda. Well pipes are visible in the distance. Photo by Andrew Hine.

two years later, we paid a return visit to color from a moist, white/orange slime Preservation Office, and the Ramsey
Stahlmann’s Cellars. It was an opportu- to a dry, brown/black crud. By the same County Historical Society. This article
nity to see what changes, if any, the brew- token, however, Stahlmann’s Cellars has is dedicated to the memory of Virginia
ery closure had brought about in the un- potentially become favorable habitat for Kunz, who encouraged the author to
derlying cave.42 other forms of cave life. While I don’t re- begin the “St. Paul Underground” series
The microclimate of Stahlmann’s Cel- call having seen bats in the cave before in 1995.
lars had changed dramatically during the or after the brewery shutdown, the cave
seven-year interval since our first visits. has now cooled sufficiently to serve as Greg Brick is a college geology instructor,
Most notably, the cave was much cooler a bat hibernaculum—enough for bats to editor of the Journal of Spelean History,
and drier because the brewery was no lon- get their body temperature low enough to and recipient of the 2005 Peter M. Hauer
ger discharging hot wastewater through enter hibernation, in a place where they Award from the National Speleological
the cave. Back in 1999, I had measured are free from predation by rodents. Society for his research in cave history.
the air temperature in the Rotunda as In February 2005, the Minnesota State His first book, Iowa Underground: A
70 degrees Fahrenheit (obviously, this Historic Preservation Office determined Guide to the State’s Subterranean Trea-
was not a temperature maximum for the that the great castle-like Schmidt Brew- sures, was published in 2004, and he is
cave, rather what I would consider the ery, which now sits vacant, was eligible working on a second book, dealing with
average), and nearly 100% humidity. The for nomination to the National Register the caves of his native state, for the Uni-
same instrument in the same spot now of Historic Places. Whatever the brew- versity of Minnesota Press.
registered 52 degrees F—the temperature ery’s future use, hopefully the historic
you’d normally expect in caves at this cave found in the depths below can also Notes
latitude—and 90% humidity. The subter- partake in the vision, commemorating 1. Herbert Asbury, The Great Illusion: An Informal
ranean stream, which formerly sported the heritage of the great nineteenth-cen- History of Prohibition (Garden City, N.Y.: Double-
among the giant brick piers, had also tury German brewers of St. Paul and their day, 1950), 62. Reasons behind the national whis-
key binge are well described by W. J. Rorabaugh,
dried up, but probably because the brew- endless, fascinating mazes. The Alcoholic Republic: An American Tradition
house well pump had been shut off. (New York: Oxford University Press, 1979).
In the absence of brewery waste, the Acknowledgments
2. This point is strongly emphasized by John P.
cave life died off. No rats or cockroaches The author thanks Susan Appel, Andrew Arnold and Frank Penman, History of the Brewing
were seen this time. The living sewer Hine, Paul Clifford Larson, the Fort Road Industry and Brewing Science in America (Chi-
jelly was gone too, having changed Federation, the Minnesota State Historic cago, 1933).

18 RAMSEY COUNTY HISTORY


3. One Hundred Years of Brewing, supplement to 16. I have been unable to locate the original 1884 rendering of the cave interior along with the story
The Western Brewer (Chicago: H. S. Rich & Co., cave map. of Christopher Stalmann.
1903), 207. This oft-repeated claim, however, is
17. Several different versions of the Sub Basement 29. Larson, pp. 5, 6.
disputed by others; see, for example, J. Burnitz
Plan are included in Andrew M. Hine, Application
Bacon, “Lager Beer in America,” Frank Leslie’s 30. Brueggemann, “Great West End.”
for Determination of Eligibility for Historic Des-
Popular Monthly 14 (August 1882): 213-17, who
ignation of the Jacob Schmidt Brewery, St. Paul, 31. I calculated a length of 30 miles for the laby-
dates it much earlier.
MN, February 9, 2005, Appendix M. rinth by painstaking measurements from the 1
4. William L. Downard, Dictionary of the History inch: 500 feet sewer maps used by St. Paul Public
18. Susan K. Appel, “Building Milwaukee’s Brew-
of the American Brewing and Distilling Industries Works. My exploration of the labyrinth as a whole,
eries: Pre-Prohibition Brewery Architecture in the
(Westport, Conn.: Greenwood Press, 1980), see a largely solo endeavor, is described in an unpub-
Cream City,” Wisconsin Magazine of History 78
“Brewing Process.” lished twelve-page manuscript, “The Fort Road
(Spring 1995): 162–199. The three-stage evolution
5. Charles Edwin Dick, “A Geographical Analysis of brewery refrigeration is concisely formulated in Labyrinth.”
of the Development of the Brewing Industry of Appel, “Artificial Refrigeration,” cited above. See 32. P. J. Matthews, “Growth Characteristics of a
Minnesota” (PhD diss., University of Minnesota, also Chapter 26, “The Brewmaster as Mechanic and Sewer Slime,” Environmental Pollution 10 (1976):
1981), 217-18. Engineer,” in Stanley Baron, Brewed in America:
A History of Beer and Ale in the United States 79–88.
6. James B. Bell, “Minnesota’s First Brewery:
(Boston: Little, Brown, 1962); Oscar Edward An- 33. S. F. B Poynter and G. C. Mead, “Volatile Or-
Yoerg’s Final Years, 1933–1952,” Ramsey County
derson Jr., Refrigeration in America: A History of ganic Liquids and Slime Production,” Journal of
History 31 (Summer 1996): 16-22, 27.
a New Technology and Its Impact (Princeton, N.J.: Applied Bacteriology 27 (1964): 182–95.
7. Thomas M. Newson, Pen Pictures of St. Paul, Princeton University Press, 1953); and One Hun-
Minnesota, and Biographical Sketches of Old Set- dred Years, cited above. 34. E. Windle Taylor, “Alcoholic Slimes,” Rep.
tlers (St. Paul, 1886), 531. Res. Bact. Chem. Biol. Exam. Lond. Waters 38
19. Paul Clifford Larson, Schmidt Brewery Desig- (1958): 24.
8. Gary J. Brueggemann, “The Beer That Grew with nation Study, July 26, 2005, pp. 16, 25.
the Great West End,” Community Reporter 19 (Oc- 35. The Western Brewer states, “Deserving of es-
20. E. M. Sigsworth, “Science and the Brewing pecial mention is the difficulty in constructing the
tober 1991): 1, 3. Brueggemann goes on to say that
Industry, 1850–1900,” Economic History Review foundations, as for the chimney, boiler and stock
Stahlmann chose the site of his brewery because of
17 (1964): 536–50. house, it required going to a depth of thirty feet in
“a cave near a cold stream, in the unsettled western
edge of the city, close to the old wagon trail called 21. Ronald Feldhaus, The Bottles, Breweriana, order to secure safe support for the weight above.”
Fort Road.” To this author, Brueggeman’s statement and Advertising Jugs of Minnesota, 1850–1920, According to the building permit (No. 38813, Au-
sounds very much like an allusion to the nearby v. 1. (Minneapolis: 1986), 40. The words “Cave gust 12, 1901, St. Paul Building Permits Collection,
Fountain Cave and Fountain Creek, which, how- Brewery” continued to appear, however, in city Ramsey County Historical Society, St. Paul, Minn.),
ever, had nothing to do with the brewery. directory advertisements. the foundation was to be laid on “sand rock” (the St.
Peter Sandstone), which could be interpreted as the
9. Gary J. Brueggemann, “Beer Capital of the 22. Josephine Marcotty, “Shedding Light on ‘The cave floor. It may be, however, that the brick piers
State—St. Paul’s Historic Family Breweries,” Caves:’ Brewers Pull Up Manhole Cover, Explore date to Walter Magee’s massive upgrading of the fa-
Ramsey County History 16:2 (1981): 3–15. St. Paul’s Nether World,” Minneapolis Star Tri- cility in the years after Prohibition.
bune, January 29, 1993. Much of the vibration,
10. An alternative origin is presented in The Lead- 36. Marcotty, “Shedding Light on ‘The Caves.’”
and hence collapse, is probably related to twenti-
ing Industries of the City of Saint Paul, Minnesota
eth-century motorized traffic. 37. “Schmidt Brewery Will Cease Dispensing
(New York: Reed & Co, 1881), 133-34, which
states: “Its name is taken from the close proxim- 23. Brueggemann, “Beer Capital.” The elder Stahl- Free Spring Water,” Modern Brewery Age 41 (July
ity of numerous caves in the rocky banks of the mann is usually said to have died from tuberculo- 2, 1990): 1.
Mississippi.” In fact, as noted above, the only cave sis, but his obituary states otherwise. See “Death 38. Larson, p. 16.
in the vicinity at the time, natural or artificial, was of Chris. Stahlmann,” Saint Paul and Minneapolis
Fountain Cave. Pioneer Press, December 4, 1883. Adam D. Smith, 39. Historic Sites Survey, Ramsey County His-
in The History of the Stahlmann Family, 2003 (in- torical Society. The Bremers later donated the
11. “A Great Brewery,” St Paul Dispatch, April 30, mansion to the Wilder Foundation.
cluded in Hine, Jacob Schmidt Brewery, Appendix
1877. As for water supply, the 1885 Sanborn map
D) also disputes the tuberculosis assertion. 40. Paul Maccabee, John Dillinger Slept Here: A
shows artesian wells at the brewery.
24. Larson, p. 8. Crooks’ Tour of Crime and Corruption in St. Paul,
12. John E. Land, Historical and Descriptive Re- 1920–1936 (St. Paul: Minnesota Historical So-
view of the Industries of St. Paul 1882-3 (St. Paul, 25. St. Paul Pioneer Press, August 4, 1901. ciety Press, 1995), 299.
1883), 110–11.
26. “Modern Brewery in St. Paul,” The Western 41. Doug Mack, “What’s Brewing at Schmidt?”
13. See, for example, Mikael Hård, Machines Are Brewer, and Journal of the Barley, Malt and Hop Preservation Journal of Saint Paul 3 (Spring
Frozen Spirit: The Scientification of Refrigera- Trades 26 (November 15, 1901): 453. Yoerg’s, a 2005): 1, 6.
tion and Brewing in the 19th Century: A Weberian much smaller St. Paul concern, was exceptional
Interpretation (Boulder, Colo.: Westview Press, among local brewers in touting its “Cave Aged 42. Owing to St. Paul’s sewer separation program,
1994), 37. Beer” as late as 1952, when it closed down; see which severs subterranean travel routes, the cave
Bell, “Minnesota’s First Brewery.” was much harder to get to this time. We had to
14. Susan K. Appel, “Artificial Refrigeration and enter the sewer labyrinth by way of a remote aper-
the Architecture of 19th Century American Brew- 27. Jacob Schmidt Brewing Co, Our History (St. ture and traverse a lengthy detour, a total distance
eries,” Journal of the Society for Industrial Arche- Paul, 1972).
of one mile to the cave. Unfortunately, adventure-
ology 16 (1990): 21-38.
28. Kathy Vadnais, “Schmidt Brewery Deal Set,” seeking youths learned of the cave’s existence in
15. The depth of the cave below the surface is in- Community Reporter 19 (October 1991): 1. The 2001 from an easily available on-line article and
dicated on the vertical cross-sections included on Minnesota Brewing Company memorialized by now it has become common knowledge on the
the sewer strip maps used by the St. Paul Public Stahlmann’s Cellars with their “Brewer’s Cave Web; see Mike Mosedale, “Notes from Under-
Works Department. Handcrafted Beers,” which included a fanciful ground,” City Pages, October 17, 2001.

RAMSEY COUNTY HISTORY 19

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