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Paul Underground
Stahlmann’s Cellars: The Cave Under the Castle
Greg A. Brick
Between the mid-1840s and 1870, Ger- ST. PAUL in 1855, and erected his brew- annual production of 10,000 barrels by
man immigrants to the United States ery the same year. He was a member of the late 1870s. By 1884, his production
brought with them their traditional fond- the House of Representatives in 1871 and peaked at 40,000 barrels per year, but by
ness for beer, which had not previously in 1883; was [Ramsey] County Commis- that time Stahlmann was no longer in first
been of great importance in this country, sioner in 1871, and held several other place.9
where harder liquors were usually pre- minor offices.” Describing Stahlmann’s As the name “Cave Brewery” sug-
ferred—something that has been called commercial enterprises in more detail, gests,10 Stahlmann carved an extensive
the “beer invasion.”1 Ironically, this inva- Newson wrote that “In early days he lagering cave, still known as “Stahl-
sion was apparently facilitated not only went out to what was known as the old mann’s Cellars,” below the brewery. A
by the burgeoning German population, Fort road, now [West] Seventh street, and newspaper reporter, in 1877, described
but also by temperance agitation, which purchased several acres of land there and the cave during its heyday:
originally focused largely on “ardent spir- built his brewery thereon. These acres
Armed with candles, and conducted by Mr.
its,” leading many Americans to choose were then considered away out of the
Stahlman, the visiting party started down,
the less potent beverage.2 city, but are now within the city limits
down into the bowels of the earth; down
Prior to 1840, there were no breweries and very valuable.”7 Stahlmann was in-
through the strata of solid lime stone rock
in America producing the German-style deed “one of the greatest pioneers of the
which underlies all that section, and of
lager beer.3 Lager beer differed from the West End.”8
which the buildings are built, we went until
prevalent English and American beers, With the great growth of the beer mar-
we struck the underlying strata of sand rock,
such as ale, in that the lager yeast fer- ket following the Civil War, Stahlmann’s
fully sixty feet below the surface. Here were
mented at the bottom of the vat, rather Cave Brewery, as it was known, became
the cellars—cellars to the front, the right, the
than the top, and the beer required la- the largest brewery in Minnesota, with an
left, and the rear—in all over 5,000 feet, or
gering, or storage, for several months at
nearly a mile in length, and still the work of
lower temperatures. In the old days, lager
excavating new chambers is going on. These
beer could only be brewed during the
cellars are about 16 feet wide and ten feet
winter months, when cellar temperatures
in height. In them now are some 120 huge
were sufficiently low.4 But in northern
butts of different varieties of beer, in all over
states, such as Minnesota, where natural
3,000 barrels. The butts are in chambers, six
ice was readily available, ice cakes could
or eight in a line, each group backed by a
be harvested from nearby lakes and rivers
huge chamber of ice to keep them at proper
in winter and stacked in caves, allowing
temperature, in all over 6,000 cakes of the
brewing all year round to meet the grow-
three foot Mississippi ice now being in store.
ing demand.5
Such complete cellars, dry, fresh and clean,
In 1848 Anthony Yoerg established
we venture cannot be found elsewhere in
Minnesota’s first brewery, which pro-
America…. Fortunately Mr. Stahlman has an
duced lager beer, in St. Paul. Yoerg, like
inexhaustible supply of the purest of spring
many St. Paul brewers to come, was a na-
water. It is brought in pipes from the bluffs,
tive of Bavaria, the cradle of the German
and carried into every floor of his private
brewing industry.6 Several years later
residence, feeds the boilers, runs through his
another important brewer, Christopher
cellars, all over the brewery and malt house,
Stahlmann, arrived in the city.
and is finally discharged into a sewer with
Stahlmann’s Cave Brewery the general refuse, which is discharged into
the Mississippi through the cave.11
Thomas Newson, in his Pen Pictures
(1886), described Stahlmann thus: “He Several years later, in 1883, another ac-
was born in Bavaria in 1829; came to the Advertisement from Polk’s City Directory for count of Stahlmann’s Cellars was pro-
United States in 1846 and . . . removed to 1880/81. vided by John Land, in his Historical and
12 RAMSEY COUNTY HISTORY
daylight. We, with our guide, taper in hand, to St. Paul), making 1,400 feet of pas-
descended the first flight of stairs, and after sages.16 Additional passages, under the
meandering through their various ramifica- present brewhouse, are shown on a dif-
tions, came out to the light of day one mile ferent map, the “Sub Basement Plan,”17
from where we descended.12 but these may date to another era. The
total length of passages is more like one-
Atmospheric descriptions like these in-
half mile, rather than the mile claimed in
fluenced later writers, until Stahlmann’s
the old accounts. Even so, the Stahlmann
Cellars acquired a national and almost
maze is more extensive than any other
mythical reputation as the very type of brewery cave in Minnesota.
labyrinthine complexity, which it still However, the use of caves to trap cold
held more than a century later.13 As noted winter air or to fill with ice, for lagering,
by art historian Susan Appel, “the brew- was becoming obsolete by the 1870s,
eries with the best and most extensive when brewers began to build icehouses,
cellars became the most famous.”14 which “took the aging of lager beer out
From Frank Leslie’s Popular Monthly, 1882. Here are the facts: Stahlmann’s Cel- of caves and placed it in an aboveground
lars were carved in the St. Peter Sand- stack of ‘cellars’ cooled by a massive
stone, with the bottom of the overlying body of ice at the top of the building.”
Platteville Limestone left to form a flat The construction of icehouses bypassed
Descriptive Review of the Industries of
ceiling. The cave is located from 20 to 30 the arduous task of underground excava-
St. Paul:
feet below street level by actual measure- tion. And with the widespread adoption
It takes three-quarters of an hour constantly ment, rather than 60 feet.15 And there’s of mechanical refrigeration in the 1880s,
walking to traverse these subterranean cav- only one level, despite what Land’s de- ice-making machines freed brewers from
erns, or rooms. The works under ground cost scription might suggest. The passage dependence on natural ice with its uncer-
$50,000, and are more wonderful in their dimensions given, “16 feet wide and ten tainties of supply and price. The icehouse
aptitude and construction than the building feet in height,” are about right. A partial thus evolved into a mechanically refrig-
above the ground, and where the most of the map of the cave, dated 1884, was copied erated stock house, where temperatures
work is done. It is a perfect labyrinth of rooms onto sewer plats, and it shows two grids could be even more scientifically con-
and cellars, and under cellars three deep, re- of passages meshing at an angle. One trolled. Eventually, mechanical refrigera-
minding one of the catacombs of Rome, for grid, somewhat irregular, is aligned with tion focused on generating cold air itself
none unacquainted with these subterranean Fort Road while the other, more rectilin- rather than ice, avoiding altogether the
vaults, without a guide, could grope their ear, is aligned with the real estate plat bulkiness and messiness of ice.18
way through them and find their way out to (Stinson, Brown, & Ramsey’s Addition Examining the 1885 Sanborn Insur-
The 1884 map of Stahlmann’s Brewery Cellars, from sewer plats. Nearby sewer tunnels are also shown. This map omits many cave passages,
such as those under the present Schmidt brewhouse. Fort Road crosses the map from left to right. For orientation, Oneida Street runs north
and south. The Stahlmann/Bremer mansion is depicted next to the word ‘BROWN.’”
Jelly stalactites in the Palace Avenue Sewer, 1999. After the brewery Colossal brick piers hold up the cave ceiling below the Schmidt brew-
shut down, these living organisms died off. house. Photo by Andrew Hine.
former entrance to the cave. These are ameter of three feet, this 30-foot shaft is under the Bremer mansion and led to
not the same “STAIRS” shown on the large enough for a person to fit through, the Fort Road Sewer. We were in for a
1884 map, however, which have been but its purpose is unclear. It brought to nasty surprise, however, when some rats
lost to sight under a roof collapse pile. mind the kidnapping of Edward Bremer emerged from their burrows, squeaking
The older stairway led down into the cave by gangsters in 1934, after which the in protest at the unexpected intrusion.
from the original Stahlmann brewhouse, family reportedly dug a tunnel from the After braving the whiskered gauntlet, and
which was demolished in 1919.38 mansion to the Rathskeller across the wading down the sewer trunk lines, we
From the northern outskirts of Stahl- street.40 This tunnel, now sealed by a emerged into the open air once again. I
mann’s Cellars, a sandrock passage runs wooden door, has nothing whatever to do quarantined my rucksack upon arriving
toward the original Stahlmann mansion with the cave, however, because it runs home to forestall a potential infestation
at 855 West Seventh Street (now called on top of the Platteville Limestone layer, from insect “hitchhikers.”
the Marie Schmidt Bremer Home), an whereas the cave is below this layer. In June 2002, Landmark Brewery shut
Italianate villa that was constructed circa Could the white shaft have been an alter- down, while Gopher State Ethanol, the
1870.39 Under the mansion itself we nate route? nation’s first urban ethanol plant, which
found a mysterious shaft, its walls coated We left Stahlmann’s Cellars by a dif- had begun production at the site in April
with white flowstone, a natural mineral ferent way than we entered, following a 2000, continued in operation until May
deposit left by flowing water. With a di- 100-foot sandrock crawlway that began 2004, when it, too, shut down.41 Almost
two years later, we paid a return visit to color from a moist, white/orange slime Preservation Office, and the Ramsey
Stahlmann’s Cellars. It was an opportu- to a dry, brown/black crud. By the same County Historical Society. This article
nity to see what changes, if any, the brew- token, however, Stahlmann’s Cellars has is dedicated to the memory of Virginia
ery closure had brought about in the un- potentially become favorable habitat for Kunz, who encouraged the author to
derlying cave.42 other forms of cave life. While I don’t re- begin the “St. Paul Underground” series
The microclimate of Stahlmann’s Cel- call having seen bats in the cave before in 1995.
lars had changed dramatically during the or after the brewery shutdown, the cave
seven-year interval since our first visits. has now cooled sufficiently to serve as Greg Brick is a college geology instructor,
Most notably, the cave was much cooler a bat hibernaculum—enough for bats to editor of the Journal of Spelean History,
and drier because the brewery was no lon- get their body temperature low enough to and recipient of the 2005 Peter M. Hauer
ger discharging hot wastewater through enter hibernation, in a place where they Award from the National Speleological
the cave. Back in 1999, I had measured are free from predation by rodents. Society for his research in cave history.
the air temperature in the Rotunda as In February 2005, the Minnesota State His first book, Iowa Underground: A
70 degrees Fahrenheit (obviously, this Historic Preservation Office determined Guide to the State’s Subterranean Trea-
was not a temperature maximum for the that the great castle-like Schmidt Brew- sures, was published in 2004, and he is
cave, rather what I would consider the ery, which now sits vacant, was eligible working on a second book, dealing with
average), and nearly 100% humidity. The for nomination to the National Register the caves of his native state, for the Uni-
same instrument in the same spot now of Historic Places. Whatever the brew- versity of Minnesota Press.
registered 52 degrees F—the temperature ery’s future use, hopefully the historic
you’d normally expect in caves at this cave found in the depths below can also Notes
latitude—and 90% humidity. The subter- partake in the vision, commemorating 1. Herbert Asbury, The Great Illusion: An Informal
ranean stream, which formerly sported the heritage of the great nineteenth-cen- History of Prohibition (Garden City, N.Y.: Double-
among the giant brick piers, had also tury German brewers of St. Paul and their day, 1950), 62. Reasons behind the national whis-
key binge are well described by W. J. Rorabaugh,
dried up, but probably because the brew- endless, fascinating mazes. The Alcoholic Republic: An American Tradition
house well pump had been shut off. (New York: Oxford University Press, 1979).
In the absence of brewery waste, the Acknowledgments
2. This point is strongly emphasized by John P.
cave life died off. No rats or cockroaches The author thanks Susan Appel, Andrew Arnold and Frank Penman, History of the Brewing
were seen this time. The living sewer Hine, Paul Clifford Larson, the Fort Road Industry and Brewing Science in America (Chi-
jelly was gone too, having changed Federation, the Minnesota State Historic cago, 1933).