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SECTION 10
PART I
TABLE OF CONTENTS
PROCEDURES FOR DEVELOPMENT .............................................................................................................................. 3
CORPORATE PRODUCT TESTING PROGRAM ............................................................................................................... 3
Spinner’s Certificate .......................................................................................................................................................4
Fur and Faux Fur ...........................................................................................................................................................5
Shearling ........................................................................................................................................................................5
RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES COMPLIANCE ...............................................................................................................6
RETESTING RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE.....................................................................................................................6
ANN TAYLOR RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST .......................................................................................................7
DEVELOPMENT TESTING ............................................................................................................................................. 13
Trim Component Testing - Development ......................................................................................................................13
Yarn Testing – Development (Basic Yarn Test Package) ...............................................................................................14
Yarn in Yarn Form .......................................................................................................................................................14
Yarn in Knit Form ........................................................................................................................................................15
Fabric Testing - Development .......................................................................................................................................16
PRODUCTION TESTING ................................................................................................................................................ 17
Trim Component Testing (including test protocols) ......................................................................................................17
Yarn Testing - Production ............................................................................................................................................26
Yarn in Yarn Form .......................................................................................................................................................27
Yarn in Knitted Form ...................................................................................................................................................28
Fabric Production Testing ............................................................................................................................................29
Garment Production Testing .........................................................................................................................................31
TEST REQUEST PROCEDURES..................................................................................................................................... 33
APPROVED LABORATORIES FOR ANN TAYLOR SOFTLINES PRODUCTS ................................................................ 36
ANN TAYLOR TEST PACKAGE PRICES – SOFTLINES .................................................................................................. 40
ANN TAYLOR INDIVIDUAL TEST PRICES ..................................................................................................................... 42
Ann Taylor Adult Test Request Form—TRIM................................................................................................................ 44
Ann Taylor Adult Test Request Form—FABRIC/ YARN ................................................................................................ 45
Ann Taylor Adult Test Request Form—GARMENT ....................................................................................................... 46
PRODUCT PERFORMANCE .......................................................................................................................................... 47
TESTING PROTOCOLS .................................................................................................................................................. 50
BOTTOMS (#001) ........................................................................................................................................................51
TOPS, DRESSES, JACKETS (#002) (CAREER/CASUAL) .............................................................................................54
SUITS/COORDINATES (#003) (CAREER/CASUAL) .....................................................................................................57
OUTERWEAR (#004) ...................................................................................................................................................60
DENIM APPAREL (#005) .............................................................................................................................................63
INTIMATES (#006) .......................................................................................................................................................66
SLEEPWEAR (#007) ....................................................................................................................................................69
TESTING ACTIVE/SWIMWEAR (#008) ........................................................................................................................72
SWEATERS (#009).......................................................................................................................................................76
LEATHER (#010) ..........................................................................................................................................................79
ADDITIONAL TESTING (#011) .....................................................................................................................................81
Basic Care Labels ........................................................................................................................................................... 83
Branded & Co-Branded Product ..................................................................................................................................... 84
BOTTOMS (#001A) ......................................................................................................................................................85
TOPS, DRESSES, JACKETS (#002A) ...........................................................................................................................87
SUITS/COORDINATES (#003A) ...................................................................................................................................89
OUTERWEAR (#004A) .................................................................................................................................................91
DENIM APPAREL (#005A) ...........................................................................................................................................93
INTIMATES (#006A).....................................................................................................................................................96
SWEATERS (#009A) ....................................................................................................................................................98
• All products, including trim components, yarns, textiles, and garments must be tested at Production
stage prior to shipment. Each supplier is solely responsible for ensuring that prior to shipment each
product has been tested in accordance with the applicable basic testing package. All finished
products care and content must be appropriately labeled in accordance with United States Federal
Trade Commission Regulations.
• Each supplier is responsible for the submission of the required number of samples, in all styles and
all colors purchased, for evaluation. The supplier is required to submit the required number of
samples to the laboratory accompanied by the completed Ann Taylor Test Request Form (see pages
44-46).
• Ann Taylor will be monitoring to ensure that all products are tested.
• Ann Taylor will pay for all development testing when it is specifically requested by the appropriate
Ann Taylor buying agent, Merchandise Manager, or Product Manager.
Note: If the item developed is purchased for production, the supplier will be required to pay
the development testing charges.
• All suppliers who provide textiles and finished products to Ann Taylor, or to other Ann Taylor suppliers
for confirmed Ann Taylor orders, are required to incur the cost of all production testing, including the
cost of merchandise destroyed during the process. This independent testing is required to verify that
all products are in compliance with all applicable legislation and established performance standards.
Suppliers will be invoiced directly for the testing charges by the Ann Taylor approved testing laboratory.
Spinner’s Certificate
1. Spinner’s certificate is a document used by spinner to confirm a certain type of fiber, including
trademarks, used in spinning.
- Merino wool
- Lambs’ wool
- Shetland wool
3. Apart from the spinner’s certificate, additional supporting tests will be performed by BV or ITS Shanghai
on claimed fiber type or fiber trademarks (e.g. Antron), where applicable.
4. Information on date of issue, client's address, authorized signature, yarn description, RMID (Raw
Material Identification) number, etc. must be included on the document.
Genuine Fur
Ann Taylor Stores Corporation has a “no-fur” policy for all brands. This excludes shearling.
In order to ensure compliance with the corporate policy on real fur, items that contain faux fur must be
accompanied by a test report confirming this prior to shipping.
Shearling
Garment Containing Shearling (not fur)
All shearling furs require fiber content test performed on bulk raw material. This test must be performed
by a CCMI approved laboratory and submitted to Ann Taylor prior to shipping.
It is critically important for Ann Taylor to know that our products are safe for customer’s end use.
To accomplish this, we have created a restricted substances list with implementation dates. It is
mandatory that all raw materials shipped by September 1, 2008, and finished products by
November 1, 2008 are in full compliance.
Any raw material that fails initial testing for restricted substances must indicate on subsequent
test request form what corrective action has been taken to ensure compliance with Ann Taylor’s
standards.
DYES
AZO Dyes which, by reductive cleavage of one or more AZO groups, may release one or more of the following aromatic amines.
60-09-3 4-Amino azobenzene1 Not Detected European Legislated Textiles (EU): Immediate
97-56-3 o-Aminoazotoluene Union & EN 14362-1
(below China
92-67-1 4-Aminodiphenyl detection Polyester(EU):
99-55-8 2-Amino-4-nitrotoluene limits - see test EN 14362-2
90-04-0 o-Anisidine method)
92-87-5 Benzidine Leather(EU):
CEN ISO/TS 17234
106-47-8 p-Chloroaniline
95-69-2 4-Chloro-o-toluidine Textiles(China)
120-71-8 p-Cresidine GB/T 17592-2006
615-05-4 2,4-Diaminoanisole Test
101-77-9 4,4'-Diamino-diphenylmethane Method for 4-
91-94-1 3,3'-Dichlorobenzidine Aminoazobenzene
(pAAB)
119-90-4 3,3'-Dimethoxybenzidine
119-93-7 3,3'-Dimethylbenzidine confirmation § 64
838-88-0 3,3'-Dimethyl-4,4'-diamino-diphenylmethane LFGB 8 82.02-9
101-14-4 4,4'-Methylene-bis-(2-chloroaniline)
91-59-8 2-Naphthylamine
101-80-4 4,4'-Oxydianiline
139-65-1 4,4'-Thiodianiline
95-80-7 2,4-Toluenediamine
95-53-4 o-Toluidine
137-17-7 2,4,5-Trimethylaniline
95-68-1 2,4-Xylidine2
87-62-7 2,6-Xylidine2
Footnotes:
1. Applicable in the European Union Regulation Only
2. Applicable in the Chinese Regulation only
Disperse Dyes
2475-45-8 Disperse Blue 1 Not Detected Germany Legislated DIN 54231 Immediate
56524-77-7 or Disperse Blue 35 Disperse Dyes
56524-76-6 (below
detection levels -
12223-01-7 Disperse Blue 106
see
61951-51-7 Disperse Blue 124 regulation)
730-40-5 Disperse Orange 3
13301-61-6 Disperse Orange 37/76
2872-52-8 Disperse Red 1
2832-40-8 Disperse Yellow 3
Other Dyes
118685-33-9 Navy Blue 0.1% by mass European Legislated Solvent extraction Immediate
Union and GC-MS or LC
MS
PESTICIDES
93-72-1 2-(2,4,5-trichlorophenoxy) propionic acid, its Not Switzerland Legislated U.S. EPA Method All raw materials shipped by
salts and compounds Detected & Finland 8081A/8151A 9/1/08 and finished product by
(those 11/1/08
pesticides
without
93-76-5 2,4,5-trichlorophenoxyacetic acid, its salts and indication
compounds are regulated
309-00-2 Aldrin (both Switzerland and Finland) under
57-74-9 Chlordane (both Switzerland and Finland) Switzerland)
72-54-8 Dichloro-diphenyl-dichloro ethane (DDD)
72-55-9 Dichloro-diphenyl-dichloro ethylene (DDE)
50-29-3 Dichloro-diphenyl-tichloro ethane (DDT) (both
Switzerland and Finland)
60-57-1 Dieldrin (5) Also Japan (both Switzerland and
Finland
72-20-8 Endrine (both Switzerland and Finland)
76-44-8 Heptachlorine (both Switzerland and Finland)
1024-57-3 Epoxy-heptachlorine
118-74-1 Hexachlorobenzene (both Switzerland and
Finland)
608-73-1 Hexachlorocyclohexane (HCH, all isomers)
except gamma-hexachlorocyclohexane (except
linande [58-89-9] in medical products)
465-73-6 Isodrin
4234-79-1 Kelevane
143-50-0 Kepone (Chlordecone)
58-89-8 Lindane
72-43-5 Methoxychlor
2385-85-5 Mirex (Finland only)
72-56-0 Perthane
82-68-8 Quintozene
8001-50-1 Strobane
297-78-9 Telodrin
8001-35-2 Toxaphene (both Switzerland and Finland)
1336-36-3 Halogenated biphenyls, including
53469-21-9 Polycholorinated biphenyl (PCB) (both
and various Switzerland and Finland)
Group 3 Sum of
35822-46-9 1,2,3,4,6,7,8-Heptachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin Group 1, 2
3268-87-9 1,2,3,4,6,7,8,9-Octachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin & 3:
67562-39-4 1,2,3,4,6,7,8-Heptachlorodibenzofuran 100 µg/kg
55673-89-7 1,2,3,4,7,8,9-Heptachlorodibenzofuran
39001-02-0 1,2,3,4,6,7,8,9-Octachlorodibenzofuran
Group 4 Sum of
50585-41-6 2,3,7,8-Tetabromodibenzo-p-dioxin Group
109333-34-8 1,2,3,7,8-Pentabromodibenzo-p-dlox n 4:
67933-57-7 2,3,7,8-Tetrabromodibenzofuran 1 µg/kg
131166-92-2 2,3,4,7,8-Pentabromodibenzofuran
Group 5 Sum of
107555-93-1 1,2,3,4,7,8-Hexabromodibenzo-p-dioxin Group
no CAS #'s 1,2,3,7,8,9-Hexabromodibenzo-p-dioxin 4 & 5:
available 1,2,3,6,7,8-Hexabromodibenzo-p-dioxin
1,2,3,7,8-Pentabromodibenzofuran 5 µg/kg
ASBESTOS
77536-66-4 Actinolite Not European Legislated Microscopic All raw materials shipped by
12172-73-5 Amosite etected Union examination; 9/1/08 and finished product
77536-67-5 Anthrophyllite minimum by 11/1/08
12001-29-5 Chrysotile magnification 1
12001-28-4 Crocidolite 250, polarized
77536-68-6 Tremolite light filter
attached; ratio of
fiber length to
diameter is at
least 3:1
811-97-2 HFC-134a - C H 2F C F 3
420-46-2 European
Union
470-46-6 HFC-143a - C2H3F3
Per-fluorocarbons (PFCs):
75-73-0 Perfluoromethane - CF4
FLAME RETARDANTS
85535-84-8 Chlorinated paraffins (C10-C13) May not be European Legislated Solvent extraction Immediate
used Union and GC-MS or
LC-MS
Methanol
59536-65-1 Polybrominated biphenyls (PBBs) May not be European Legislated extraction:
used Union analysis by GC-
MS or LC-MS
Solvent extraction
and analysis by
GC-MS or LC-MS
32534-81-9 Penta-bromodiphenyl ether (pentaBDE) May not be European Legislated
used Union
METALS
Restrictions for Textiles
7440-43-9 Cadmium (Cd) 100 ppm Netherlands Legislated Total Digestion
Immediate
18540-29-9 Chromium (Cr+6) – hexavalent Not detected Germany Legislated DIN 53314; C18
(below filtration and
detection reanalysis of all
limits - see test positive results
method)
Class 2
Class 3
ORGANOTIN COMPOUNDS
56573-85-4 Tributyltin (TBT) Not Detected Japan Legislated Performance All raw materials shipped by
(0.5 ppm based method of 9/1/08.,and finished product
each) ethanol extraction by 11/1/08
derivitization and
analysis by GC
668-34-8 Triphenyltin (TPhT) MS or LC-MS
ISO 17353-2004
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS
50-00-0 Formaldehyde Not detected Japan Legislated ISO 14184-1 or Immediate
0-36 months (below JIS L1041 (Law
detection 112) or
limits - see DIN 53315
test
method)
>36 months (with direct skin contact 75 ppm Japan Legislated ISO 14184-1 or
JIS L1041 (Law
112) or
DIN 53315
Confirmation of
failure by
fragmentation
HPLC-MS
DEVELOPMENT TESTING
The Development Testing Program has been established to test products and evaluate specific
performance characteristics of “questionable” or “new” trims, components, yarns, or textiles prior to
confirming the bulk production order. Conducting a test during the development stages of production
does not exempt the supplier from testing bulk production in accordance with the full basic testing
packages.
Zippers: Ann Taylor does not require testing to be performed on Coats, Ideal Fasteners & YKK
zipper components for audits
Certain trim components: Ann Taylor does not require testing to be performed on Scovill shanks,
rivets, and snaps components for adults.
(If requested)
st
Number of Samples Required for Testing: 2.5 yards 1 color minimum width 36”
1 yard each additional color minimum width 36”
1 cone, 10 yards minimum
Yarn in Yarn Form
To be performed by country sourcing the yarn (i.e. unfinished).
• Development yarn should be submitted as fully processed product.
Note 1:
Colorfastness testing is not part of the development protocol. However, Ann Taylor Production/Product
Development, yarn mill, and dyer should identify potential issues with respect to colorfastness at the earliest possible
stage.
Note 2:
Additional testing may be required upon request.
Note 3:
For 100% Cashmere only, add the following tests on the fiber itself:
Any fabric submitted for testing must be representative of all finishing processes it will be subject to
during manufacturing (i.e.: durable water repellents, sanding/brushing, flocking, printing, etc).
For washed programs (such as indigo-dyed denim and heavy garment washed fabrics):
• The fabric supplier/manufacturer is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the fabric
“before-wash/finish”.
• Ann Taylor is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the fabric “after-wash/finish”.
• The garment manufacturer is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the garments after the
wash/finish.
* For washed programs—these tests are not needed in the “before-wash” state.
See “Performance Specification Sheets/Test Protocols” for standards and test methods.
PRODUCTION TESTING
The Production Testing Program has been established to test products and evaluate specific performance
characteristics of trim, yarn, textile, or garment prior to shipment. Note: if the final fabric has mechanical
(wash)/chemical finish, the basic test package must be performed on finished fabric.
Lead content 16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% (600 All colors
ASTM ppm) lead content based on
E1613/E1645 the weight of the dried
(Mod.) paint or coating film
Heavy Metals EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 Must not exceed these limits
ASTM F963 Arsenic: 25 (ppm) for soluble migrated
Barium: 1000 element
Cadmium: 75
Chromium: 60
Lead: 90
Mercury: 60
Selenium: 500
Nickel Test EN 1811 Transfer to skin less than Only if supplier indicated that the
EN12472 0.5. micrograms per square item is “nickel-free”.
(report results centimeter per week
with and without (Nickel is possible in coatings or
coating) special colors)
If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing)
If Button
add the following tests
Center Strength
a. Shank/2 & 4 holes BS 4162 Section Up to 16 ligne: 16 lbf Test all shapes/sizes.
plastic & wooden 4.0 (modified) Up to 25 ligne: 20 lbf One color only.
buttons Larger than 25 ligne: 30 lbf
If Snap
add the following test
Snap Action ASTM D4846 Min: 2 lbs Test all sizes/shapes. One
BV-S 1045 Max: 5 lbs color only.
Corrosion ASTM B117 G85 (Mod) No visual change in appearance Test any one size
Resistance 24 hours in 1% Salt Spray No signs of staining, corrosion, All colors and finishes
(Fog) oxidation or discoloration.
Nickel test EN 1811 Transfer to skin less than 0.5 Only if supplier
EN 12472 micrograms per square centimeter per indicated that the item
Report results with and week is “nickel-free”.
without coating
If coated or painted
add the following tests
If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing)
If Snap
Add the following test
Snap Action BV S1045 Min: 2 lbs Test all sizes. One color only.
Max: 5 lbs
Colorfastness and AATCC 106 Color change: min. 4 Stringer and slider
appearance after (modify if Staining: min. 4 Test each color.
exposure to necessary) Appearance: No visual
sea water change.
Colorfastness and AATCC 162 Color change: min. 4 Stringer and slider
appearance after Appearance: No visual Test each color.
exposure to change
chlorinated pool
water
If painted or coated
Add the following tests
If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing)
If made of metal
Note: Exempt from the above tests are Coats, Ideal Fasteners & YKK zipper components for adults.
Minimum sample requirement: 1 yard (if in fabric form of at least 40” in width) OR 4 yards (taping)
Colorfastness and AATCC 61, IIA Color change: min. 4 Test all colors
appearance after Staining: min. 4
washing Self staining: min. 4.5
No visual change in
appearance
Colorfastness and AATCC 132 Color change: min. 4 Test all colors
appearance after Staining: min. 4
drycleaning Self staining: min. 4.5
No visual change in
appearance
Colorfastness to AATCC 8 Dry: min. 4 Test all colors
crocking or Wet: min. 3 Report which test procedure
AATCC 116 was used
If item is too
small
Dimensional stability AATCC 135 Report actual shrinkage. Test one color only
to laundering Acceptance depends on Three launderings
compatibility with fabric in
specific garment
Dimensional stability AATCC 158 Report actual shrinkage. Test one color only
to drycleaning Acceptance depends on One drycleaning only
compatibility with fabric in
specific garment
Color fastness to AATCC 15 Color change: min. 3.5 Example: neck tape, etc.
perspiration Staining: min. 4 Test all colors.
Colorfastness and AATCC 106 Color change: min. 4 Test all colors
appearance after Staining: min. 4
exposure to sea water Self staining: min. 4.5
No visible change in appearance
Colorfastness and AATCC 162 Color change: min. 4 Test all colors
appearance after No visible change in appearance
exposure to
chlorinated pool water
If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing)
Colorfastness and AATCC 106 Color change: min. 4 Test all colors
appearance after Staining: min. 4
exposure to sea water No visible change in
appearance
Colorfastness and AATCC 162 Color change: min. 4 Test all colors
appearance after No visible change in
exposure to chlorinated appearance.
pool water
If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing)
LABELS
# OF
TEST DESCRIPTION REQUIREMENTS TEST METHOD SAMPLINGS/
READINGS
1. Durability to 50 launderings and No adverse effects AATCC 135/158 3
5 drycleaning (washing conditions as
per care instructions)
2. Colorfastness to Laundering AATCC 61
- color change 4.0 minimum 1
- staining 3.5 minimum
3. Colorfastness to Drycleaning AATCC 132
- color change 4.0 minimum 1
- staining 3.5 minimum
4. Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach 4.0 minimum AATCC TS001 1
5. Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach 4.0 minimum AATCC TS001 2
6. Colorfastness to Crocking (dry/wet) 4.0 minimum/3.0 minimum AATCC 116 1
7. Colorfastness to Perspiration 4.0 minimum AATCC 15 1
- color change 3.0 minimum
- staining
8. Colorfastness to Water: Sea (swimwear) AATCC 106 1
- color change 4.0 minimum
- staining 3.0 minimum
9. Colorfastness to Water: Chlorinated Pool AATCC 162 1
(swimwear)
- color change 4.0 minimum
If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing)
Sample Required: 20 sticker labels and one (1) yard fabric of each color in garment order. Lab. may request
additional labels if necessary.
Note: Sticker label MUST NOT be pre-applied on fabric.
Ageing Test (under BV S1052 No noticeable change on sticker All color fabrics in garment
hot/humid conditions) and residual adhesive left on order
test fabric.
BHT Content ASTM D4275 Less than 25 ppm Each sticker type
• All yarns purchased by Ann Taylor must be tested in accordance with the full Basic Yarn Testing
Package and include the (Basic Yarn Test Package) prior to shipment from the suppliers.
• Samples in all colors from the first bulk production must be submitted to an Ann Taylor approved
testing laboratory for evaluation.
• “Unfinished” yarn
o To be performed by country sourcing the yarn and only required if sourcing country is different
than country manufacturing the garment
• “Finished” Yarn:
o Production yarn must be submitted as a knitdown in the correct color, stitch/gauge and finish
{washing, brushing, printing, etc} to the laboratory for evaluation.
• For 100% Cashmere only, add the following tests on the fiber itself:
Diameter of Fiber (ASTM D2130)
Fiber Length (ASTM D1575)
AATCC 132
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS-001 Minimum All colors
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4 Washable fabrics
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC TS-001 Minimum All colors
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4 Washable fabrics
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 15 Minimum All colors
PERSPIRATION Color change: 4
Color staining: 3.5
Self-staining: 4.5
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 8, 116 Minimum (wet/dry) All colors (except white)
CROCKING Light: 3/4 Lab discretion on light colors and
Medium/dark: certain neutrals
2.5/3.5
Pigment/ sulfur 2/3
sueded (brushed,
peached, sanded)
COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT AATCC 16 Minimum All colors
Option 3 Light/neutral colors: (except lining/pocketing fabrics)
20 hours 3.5
All others: 4
• The full basic textile package must be done on the first production dye lot of each fabric. Test report
will be valid for two seasons. (Ann Taylor will specify if any additional tests must be done depending
on the fabric).
For each quality textile, only one color is required to be fully tested in accordance with the full basic
textile testing package. Each additional color of the same quality is only required to be tested for all
applicable colorfastness tests (see “Performance Specification Sheets/Testing Protocols” for details).
• The tests must be done by an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory. All required fabric
information must be given to the laboratory (see “Ann Taylor Test Request Form—Fabric”).
• In addition, the fabric supplier must test each dye lot internally to assure that all fabrics meet the
requirements. These test reports do not have to be submitted to Ann Taylor, but the supplier must
keep them for review by Ann Taylor personnel if problems arise.
• For garments produced at vertically integrated manufacturing plants, the factory is required to submit
both the textiles and garments independently for evaluation in accordance with both the full basic
textile and garment testing packages.
Note: All colors must be tested prior to ordering care labels. Labels may vary per color and must
be ordered per lab test report recommendations. Final care label depends on how the garment as
whole performs (and confirmed by the garment test).
• The fabric supplier must submit all fabrics from the first production dye lot each season.
• Any care label referenced must be selected from the list of Ann Taylor standard care labels. Any
deviation must be approved by the NY Director of Fabric and Testing.
• Fabric used for trim, lining, etc. must undergo the same testing procedures as regular fabrics.
• All tests must be performed according to the test procedures listed (i.e. AATCC, ASTM, etc.).
• All fabrics submitted must be representative of all finishing processes it will be subject to during
manufacturing (i.e., stone/antique washing, garment washing, flocking, printing, etc).
• For washed programs (such as indigo-dyed denim and heavy garment washed fabrics), before- and
after- wash testing are required (see below for details).
Before-Wash Testing
• Bursting strength (knits)
• Fabric weight
• Fabric count
• Fiber content
SEE “PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATION SHEETS/TEST PROTOCOLS” FOR STANDARDS AND TEST METHODS.
After-Wash/Finish Testing
See “Performance Specification Sheets/Test Protocols” for full testing, standards, and test
methods.
Note 1: The fabric supplier/manufacturer is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the
fabric “before-wash/finish” (see below).
Note 2: The garment manufacturer is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the fabric
“after-wash/finish” (see Performance Specification Sheets/Test Protocols).
Note 3: The garment manufacturer is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the
garments after the wash/finish.
• All colorfastness tests are done against AATCC multifiber #10 (except crocking) unless otherwise
stated in the testing protocols. Multifiber #1 should be used if rayon or silk is present in the fabric.
Multifiber # 10 & #1 will be used if acrylic and silk and/or rayon are present in the fabric.
(Note: If the results are marginal and the fabric is used in a critical combination, then the tests should
be repeated against the actual component fabrics used in a garment).
• For color-blocked items, it is recommended that mock-ups be made in all colorways and submitted for
colorfastness testing before fabric shipment.
• Fabrics must be washed/dried three times, or drycleaned one time for all shrinkage and appearance
tests.
• Please review carefully the requirements for flammability testing in this section.
• Colorfastness to laundering:
Hand washables: AATCC 61-1A
Hand wash cold: test performed at 40 C
Hand wash warm: test performed at 49 C
Machine washables: AATCC 61-2A
Machine wash cold: test performed at 40 C
Machine wash warm: test performed at 49 C
• All Fabrics containing metal/metallic, in addition to all applicable basic tests must also be subject to
further construction analysis: 1) number of yarns used to weave/knit fabric & number of plies/yarn and
2) fiber content by weight of each yarn.
The factory must send a representative garment from the beginning of their bulk production to an
Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory.
• All the required garment information must be given to the laboratory (see “Ann Taylor
Test Request Form—Garment”)
• Additional garments must be sent to the laboratory if needed (consult with lab).
*NOTE: Production garments must have all production trim/embellishments attached. If a total
of 3 garments are not sent, the testing lab will contact the requestor for the additional garment.
The testing lab will not proceed with the garment test until both garments have been received.
Garment Test
The purpose of garment testing is to evaluate all the different components of a garment together
while being cleaned three times (one time for drycleaning) according to the care label. We are
looking for appearance, bleeding, puckering, shrinkage, or anything that would make the garment
look or feel undesirable. Special attention should be paid to trims, accessories, and garment
prints.
Care labels submitted must be taken from the Ann Taylor standard care labels. Any deviation
must be approved by the NY Director of Fabric and Testing.
The garment test will also evaluate the strength of all seams, stress points, and trim
attachments, as well as verify the care instructions and fiber content labeling. For fiber content
label, fiber content must be tested in fabric stage and verified at garment stage on all styles prior
to order labels.
For zipper(s) that is/are attached to the garment, the operability, chain crosswise, top stop
holding, bottom stop holding and holding strength of slider lock tests are required.
The garment test must be performed by an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory. See
“Approved Laboratories for AT Softline Product”.
Production textiles in all colors must be tested prior to submitting samples for garment testing.
The garment testing does not replace the required fabric tests but is in addition to these. The
fabric tests are important because problems with such items as tensile strength, light fastness,
colorfastness to perspiration, chlorine, seawater, etc. are not revealed by our garment test.
Garments must be tested in the production stage and test report will be valid for two seasons.
The testing must be done after the garment is completely finished, including “garment wash”,
“enzyme wash”, “stone wash”, etc, if applicable.
See “Performance Specification Sheets/Testing Protocols” for a list of the required tests.
If garment dye/garment finished – need to add colorfastness tests.
This procedure does not relieve the garment supplier of his responsibility to assure the
performance of the garments by total internal quality control throughout the production cycle.
Each type/style of garment must be tested (in the correct textile quality), especially if different
kinds of trim and different fabrics are used together in the same garment.
• It is not necessary to test every color combination, but all critical color combinations
must be tested
o Combinations of bright/deep colors with white/cream.
o Pay special attention to contrasting trim
o All combinations of “red” with other light colors must always be tested because
this is the color most like to bleed.
o All color contrast combinations with fabrics that are known to be marginal in
colorfastness (from fabric tests) must be tested.
If the same garment style is made by more than one supplier, it must be tested individually from
each supplier.
Note: Request forms must be fully completed before the laboratories are able to process
your request. It is important to note that the information provided on the request form is
required by Ann Taylor for product tracking purposes and will determine which performance
standard to apply to your product.
Requests received without all the required information cannot be processed and will be
handled as follows:
• Testing Services Coordinator will contact the supplier via telephone, fax and/or e-mail and
request the required information.
• The requestor will be notified and a “Hold” status will be placed on the request.
• The sample and all paperwork will be held for two working days.
• Should the supplier fail to reply within the two-day time period, the request will be
“Canceled” and the requestor will be notified for disposition of samples.
• Upon receipt of required information/samples, the request will be reprocessed and
the “revised date” will appear on the Request form as well as on the Test report.
I. Initial Submissions:
Testing service will test only what is requested by the supplier, as stated in the request
form!
• Requests for all “Basic Package” testing will override all other requests for testing.
• In cases where fabric and/or garment package testing does not include all special testing
requested, the additional tests will be included along with the standard test package.
• In cases where fabric and/or garment package testing has not been requested, only the
tests specified will be performed.
• Please state weight in fabric oz/sq. yd, g/m2 or sweater garment lbs/dz. Do not
abbreviate care instructions or fiber content.
• Garment testing and additional colorway testing must have the original report numbers
referenced, otherwise the requests will be placed on “Hold”.
For retest submissions include previous report number and specify which test needs to be
performed. Retest submissions received without a previous report number listed and without
specific instructions included, will be handled using the “Hold” criteria listed above.
Note: Any variations to standard BV testing procedures will be outlined in the “executive
summary” section of the corresponding test report.
The network of testing laboratories makes every effort to evaluate products in the shortest
possible time.
• Regular Service: 3 working days, beginning the day after the laboratory receives the
samples. (Normal fee applied)
• Priority Service: 2 working days, beginning the day after the laboratory receives the
samples. (Normal fee + 40% surcharge applied)
• Express Service: 1 working day, beginning the day after the laboratory receives the
samples. This only applies to tests that can be processed and submitted within 1 working
day (normal fee + 50% surcharge applied).
Testing for “Priority” and “Express” services are limited only to those tests that can be
completed within the specified service time. Requests received, with either of these services
selected, requiring a test(s) that falls outside of the service parameters, will follow on a separate
report and the vendor and appropriate requestor personnel will be notified. Use the express
service option only when necessary to minimize reporting delays created by a significant increase
in "special" service requests. Full package testing cannot be completed with Express Service.
*Notes:
• If due to tests required, more than the requested service is needed to complete
testing, the lab must communicate to the requestor within 24 hours of receipt of the
sample what the expected completion date will be.
• All package program testing will be completed within the regular service except:
1) Swimwear: colorfastness to light (40 hours) – require 5 days
2) Products containing feather/down – require 7 days
3) Leather Products – require 7 days
4) Products made of fiber or fiber blends requiring microscopic analysis – require 5
days.
5) Trim testing that involves nickel release test---require 10 days
6) Labels: durability to 50 launderings and 5 drycleanings – require 5 days.
7) Washable Merino Wool – 10 Washes requires 4 days
8) Easy Care in 5x, 10x, 25x washes requires 8 days minimum
Each test property as well as the overall rating of the final report will be based on the following
Ann Taylor established rating system:
APPROVED
APPROVED WITH TOLERANCE - may proceed.
REJECTED - should not proceed.
Ann Taylor has selected Bureau Veritas Consumer Product Services, Inc. (BVCPS) as the primary service
provider. Ann Taylor also recognizes test reports from Intertek Labtest Testing Services (ITS) when pre-
approved by Director of Fabric and Testing, New York. Except in the above situation, all product testing
should be directed to Bureau Veritas Consumer Product Testing Services Group.
In certain countries where Bureau Veritas Product Services does not have an approved testing laboratory,
testing should be directed to the nearest approved Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services laboratory.
The following laboratories have been approved by Ann Taylor to conduct laboratory consumer testing in
accordance to Ann Taylor performance standards. The approved laboratory and contact information is listed
below. Please note that not all laboratories are approved to conduct all tests, see (*).
CHINA
Bureau Veritas Consumer Product Services (Shanghai)
Softline Divisions
Address: No.168, Guanghua Road, Zhuanqiao Town, Minhang,
Shanghai, China. Post Code: 201108
Tel: 86-21-2408188
Fax: 86-21-64890042
E-mail: bvcps_sh_info@cn.bureauveritas.com
Contact: Alvin Fung
INDIA - BANGALORE
Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services (India) Pvt. Ltd.
Add: 1-2-3, Mereside Heights (1st floor), Pai Layout, Old Madras Road
Benniganahalli, Bangalore—16, Karnataka—India
Tel: 0091-80-28531432
Fax: 0091-80-28531397
Email: niraj.singh@in.bureauveritas.com
Contact: Niraj Singh
INDONESIA
PT. Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services Indonesia
Mailing Address
Add: Jl. Cideng Timur No.38
Gedung KKM, 2nd Floor, Jakarta Pusat 10130, Indonesia
Tel: 62-21-634-8877
Fax: 62-21-634-8838
E-mail: bvcps_jkt_general_inquires@id.bureauveritas.com
Contact: Darwi Tandiono
ITALY
ICQ Global SRL
Add: Via Europa N. 28, 22060, Cabiate (CO) Italy
Tel: 39-031-768-403
Fax: 39-031-756-106
E-mail: Pamelavilla@icqglobal.com
Contact: Pamela Villa
JAPAN-TOKYO
c/o Japan Synthetic Textile Inspection Institute Foundation
Add: 4-4-20, Hongokucho, Nihonbashi, Chuo-Ku,
Tokyo 103-0021, Japan
Tel: 81-3-3241-7319
Fax: 81-3-3245-0773
E-mail: kikaku-info@kaken.or.jp
Contact: Mr. Takuo Ishizuka
JAPAN-OSAKA
c/o Japan Synthetic Textile Inspection Institute Foundation
Add: 2-5-19, Edobori, Nishi-Ku, Osaka 550-0002, Japan
Tel: 81-6-6441-0310
Fax: 81-6-6441-0323
E-mail: t-okubo@kaken.or.jp
Contact: Norihiko Nakayama
KOREA
KOTITI (Softlines Only)
Add: 819-5, Yoksam-1Dong, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul, Korea
Tel: 822-3451-7000
Fax: 822-3451-7172
E-mail: kyu_huh@kotiti.re.kr, young_kim@kotiti.re.kr
Contact: Mr. Kyu Huh, Dr. Young Kim
PHILIPPINES
Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services Philippines Inc.
Add: 8439 S. Super Highway, West Service Road
Paranaque City, Philippines
Tel: 632-824-2825
Fax: 632-824-1430
E-mail: criselda.de-jesus@ph.bureauveritas.com
Contact: Ms. Carmela Babor
SINGAPORE
Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services (Pte) Ltd.
Add: 11 UBI Road 1, Meiban Industrial Building,
#07-01 Singapore 408723
Tel: 65-6283-8366
Fax: 65-6283-8966
E-mail: joeie.tsang@sg.bureauveritas.com
Contact: Ms. Joeie Tsang
SRI LANKA
Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services (Lanka) Private Ltd.
Add: 270 Dehiwela Road, Bellanwila, Sri Lanka
Tel: 94-11-2739546
Fax: 94-11-2739548
E-mail: chanaki.de-costa@lk.bureauveritas.com
Contact: Ms. Chanaki De Costa
TAIWAN
Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services (Hong Kong) Ltd.
– Taiwan Branch
Add: The AETNA Tower, 2F(2A1), No. 37, Zhongyang S. Road, Sec. 2,
Beitou, Taipei, 112, Taiwan R.O.C.
Tel: 886-2-2895-3666
Fax: 886-2-2895-6999
E-mail: General.twcps@tw.bureauveritas.com
Contact: Jane Lo
THAILAND
Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services (Thailand) Ltd.
Add: 2410 Sukhumvit Road
Phrahanong, Bangkok 10206, Thailand
Tel: 662-7447200
Fax: 662-7447202
E-mail: poomthavatch.sukanhaketu@th.bureaveritas.com
Contact: Mr. Poomthavatch Sukanhaketu (Poom)
TURKEY
BVCPS Test Laboratuvarlari Ltd. Sti.
Add: Mehmet Akif Mah., Express Cad., Can Sok., No: 31, KAT:3, Ikitelli, Istanbul, Turkey
Tel: 90-212-4943535
Fax: 90-212-494-3560
E-mail: Atanur.Dikmen@bvcps.com.tr
Contact: Atanur Dikmen
USA
Currently no nominated Lab in the USA.
Trim Information
Season
Trim Supplier
Garment Facility/ Factory
Supplier Trim Number
Detailed Sample Description
Sample Style Number
P.O. Number
Color/ Color Combination
Internally Dyed/ Dyed to Match
Coating/ Paint
Size
Material
Nickel-free (Yes/No)
Submitted Care Instructions
Development Additional Color or Size * Must explain below what improvement was made if
retest is for previous restricted substances failure(s)
Production Other (Specify tests: )
Billing information
Company: Contact:
Address: Telephone: Fax:
Corporate Policy: All vendors supplying finished products to Ann Taylor for confirmed production orders are required to
incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merchandise destroyed during the testing process.
Development testing will be charged back to your department. Priority service is available upon request after 48 hours of
lab receipt at 40% surcharge.
Contact Information
Division
Department #
Vendor/Supplier
Vendor Code #
Requestor Name
Telephone
Fax
E-mail
AT Office/Agent Contact
Fabric Information
Season
Fabric (or Yarn) Supplier
RMID #/Fabric Quality/Style Number
P.O. Number
Type of Fabric (Woven/Knit)
Construction (i.e. twill, jersey, etc.)
Fabric Weight
Fiber Content
Yarn Dye/Piece Dye
Finishing Applied
Color(s)
Submitted Care Instructions
Product Category
Top/Dress/Jacket Bottom Sweater Active/ Swim
Outerwear Intimate Sleepwear
Denim Leather Suits/ Coordinates
Billing information
Company: Contact:
Address: Telephone: Fax:
Corporate Policy: All vendors supplying finished products to Ann Taylor for confirmed production orders are required to
incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merchandise destroyed during the testing process.
Development testing will be charged back to your department. Priority service is available upon request after 48 hours of
lab receipt at 40% surcharge.
Note: This request form must be fully completed before the laboratories are able to process your request. Any incomplete
data results in time delay.
Contact Information
Division
Department #
Vendor/Supplier
Vendor Code #
Requestor Name
Telephone
Fax
E-mail
AT Office/Agent Contact
Garment Information
Season
Garment Facility (factory)
Style Number
P.O. Number
Reference Style # (if applicable)
Garment Description
Fiber Content
Color/ Color Combination
Garment Finish (i.e. garment wash, etc.)
Submitted Care Instructions
Product Category
Top/Dress/Jacket Bottom Sweater Suits/ Coordinates
Denim Intimate Sleepwear Active/ Swim
Outerwear Leather
Billing information
Company: Contact:
Address: Telephone: Fax:
Corporate Policy: All vendors supplying finished products to Ann Taylor for confirmed production orders are required to
incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merchandise destroyed during the testing process.
Development testing will be charged back to your department. Priority service is available upon request after 48 hours of
lab receipt at 40% surcharge.
Note: This request form must be fully completed before the laboratories are able to process your request. Any incomplete
data results in time delay.
PRODUCT PERFORMANCE
The following performance standards and testing protocols were developed to effectively analyze
and monitor the physical characteristics of trims, yarns, textiles, and garments to ensure their
compliance with all federal, state, international and local requirements. The standards and
procedures were developed based on actual physical test data and in accordance with guidelines
established by the:
These specifications will be updated periodically to reflect changes in technology and data
available or as new fibers / fabrications are developed.
The fabric performance standards listed in this manual are generally suitable for the garment
applications stated. However, each individual garment must be reviewed for special
requirements.
All suppliers are required to ensure that their products meet these performance specifications. If
a product cannot meet these specifications, the supplier is required to notify Ann Taylor in writing
prior to the placement of an order for that product.
The garment manufacturer must report any problems with the fabric, trim, accessories, or the
design/construction of the garment to the regional Ann Taylor Production Office/Agent and
suggest ways to correct the problem.
COLORFASTNESS:
The supplier must take every possible step to assure that the colorfastness requirements are
met.
Such steps include, but are not limited to, the selection of the best dyestuffs available, extra
rinsing,
dye fixation, etc.
Note: All cotton fabrics must be dyed with reactive or vat dyes. Indigo dyes can be used
where applicable. Sulfur or direct dyes are not acceptable, unless specifically requested by
Ann Taylor for special effects.
WATER RESISTANCE:
In order for a garment to qualify for the special “water resistance” classification/duty, it must be
coated with a rubber or plastic application AND pass a water resistance test (AATCC 35; < 1
gram). The water resistance MUST be a direct result of the rubber or plastic application.
FIBER CONTENT
All analyses for fiber content are to use AATCC 20, 20A, ASTM D276 & D629.
FLAMMABILITY
All fabrics and (fabric) trims must meet the requirements of the United States Flammable Fabrics Act,
Class 1 (Consumer Product Safety Commission, Standard 16 CFR 1610).
Note 1: If “anti-flammability” chemical finishes are used, then the supplier must notify Ann Taylor.
Special testing will be required.
Note 2: Although certain types of trims are too small to be tested for flammability at trim and/or
garment stage, it is the supplier's responsibility to make sure all applicable trims would comply
with the normal flammability requirements. It is recommended that applicable trims be tested in a
larger form before proceeding with production.
a. All fabrics with an “intentionally raised fiber or yarn surface” must be tested for flammability, if
such surface is “exposed” on the garment. These are fabrics that are sanded, napped, brushed,
tufted, etc. It does not matter if the raising of the fibers is done in yarn or fabric form.
The test must always be performed on the fabric side that has the raised surface, no matter which
side of the fabric will be used as the “face side”.
Even if the raised surface is to be used as the inside of the garment it should be tested, if there is
the possibility of a consumer exposing it by the way the garment is worn (i.e. turn up the sleeves
for wearing). If the garment will be lined so that the raised surface cannot be exposed, then it
need not be tested.
Note: As it is not clear on the term “raised yarn surface”, such fabrics as french terry, terry, and
very coarse or loose knit sweaters or coarse sweaters with loose floats should also be tested.
Exceptions: Fabrics with a raised surface do not have to be tested if they are manufactured entirely
with these fibers, or blends including only these specific fibers, regardless of weight: Acrylic,
Modacrylic, Nylon, Olefin, Polyester, or Wool.
b. All fabrics weighing less than 2.6 oz/square yard (88 grms/square meter) must be tested unless
composed entirely of the following fibers: Acrylic, Modacrylic, Nylon, Olefin, Polyester, Wool
c. Plain surface fabrics, regardless of fiber content, weighting 2.6 oz/square yard (88 grms/square
meter) or more, do not have to be tested for flammability.
d. Hats (if they do not cover the face or neck), gloves, footwear, and interlinings are exempt from
flammability testing.
e. The testing requirement applies to all parts of the garment, including trim.
f. Although certain types of trims are too small to be tested for flammability at trim and /or garment
stage, it is the supplier’s responsibility to make sure all applicable trim would comply with the
normal flammability requirements. It is recommended that applicable trims be tested in a larger
form before proceeding with production.
g. If incorrect fiber content is claimed by the supplier, but through actual fiber analysis by the lab it is
determined that flammability testing is in fact required, this test will automatically be performed by
the laboratory.
h. Anti-flammability chemicals: If such chemical finishes are used, then the supplier must notify Ann
Taylor, and special testing will be required.
• If any other fiber fill is used (i.e. polyfill or fiber batten), a representative sample of the
construction must be tested.
Nickel
Any metal part that comes in prolonged contact with the skin must be “free of nickel”.
Nickel-free: The requirement is a “transfer to the skin” measurement, and the standard is: <0.5
micrograms per square centimeter per week.
Lead
a. In accordance with 16 CFR 1303, any paint or coating used must not contain more than
0.06% (600 ppm) of lead.
Examples:
• Painted buttons, snaps, zippers, etc.
• Pigment prints and dyes
• Coating and lamination of fabric
b. In accordance with EPA 3051 modified (San Francisco Supreme Court 317256, CGC-02-
403328 and CGC-05-440721), material containing PVC must not contain more than 30
ppm of lead.
Examples:
• PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats.
• Decals and attachment on clothing
TESTING PROTOCOLS
BOTTOMS (#001)
Page 1 of 3
(CAREER/CASUAL SKIRT/SHORT/PANT)
FABRIC TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
PHYSICAL
CHARACTERISTICS
FABRIC WEIGHT ASTM D3776 +/- 5% One color only
(oz/sq yard)
FABRIC COUNT ASTM D3775/D3887 +/- 5% One color only
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single fiber: No tolerance One color only
ASTMD276/629 Blends: +/- 3%
YARN SIZE ASTM D1059 +/- 10% Non-stretch upon
request
(one color only)
PERFORMANCE
FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test Negative One color only
MTL C1007
If positive, proceed with 75 ppm
JIS L1041
pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), Wool/wool All colors
blends: 4.5-7
Others: 6-8
FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only
(see “Performance
Specifications -
Flammability for details)
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %) Woven: One color only
TO WASHING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: All colors
Knits:
For “dryclean only” Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Washable fabrics;
fabrics: Rayon/blends -5/+5 Dryclean only (hand
Hand wash, line dry or Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: wash)
flat dry -7/+3 x -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-
10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x
-3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY AATCC 158, 1 cycle Length x Width (max. %) Woven: One color only
TO DRYCLEANING Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: All colors
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Dryclean fabrics
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, as per Color change: 4 Additional evaluation of
WASHING/DRYCLEANING care Self-staining: 4.5 sample(s) tested for
(3 cycles/ 1 cycle) No visual change in dimensional stability.
appearance
GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 150, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3
Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
Rayon/blends -5/+5
Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -
7/+3 x -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -
AATCC 158, 1 cycle 3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 150/158, as per Color change: 4
WASHING/ DRYCLEANING care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5
No visual change in appearance
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3%
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
SEAM STRETCHABILITY AATCC TS 015 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation Knits only
All seams
SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE ASTM D1683 Minimum (lbs): 20 Actual seams; all
BV S1027 Stress Points: 15 seams
BV S1029 Pockets (decorative/functional):
10/20
Belt loops/pleats: 10
Lining: 15 lbs
TRIM PERFORMANCE (Button BV S1023 Minimum (lbs): 15 All on garment
(Attachment strength Snap BV S1044
attachment strength Hook &
Eye/Bar attachment strength)
FABRIC TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
PHYSICAL
CHARACTERISTICS
FABRIC WEIGHT ASTM D3776 +/- 5% One color only
(oz/sq yard)
FABRIC COUNT ASTM D3775/D3887 +/- 5% One color only
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single fiber: No tolerance One color only
ASTMD276/629 Blends: +/- 3%
GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 150, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3
Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
Rayon/blends -5/+5
Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle:
-7/+3 X -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-
10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x
-3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
AATCC 158, 1 cycle Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 150/158, as per care Color change: 4
WASHING/ DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5
No visual change in
appearance
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3%
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
SEAM STRETCHABILITY AATCC TS 015 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation Knits only
All seams
SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE ASTM D1683 Seams/Stress points: 15 Actual seams; all seams
BV S1027 Pockets
(Decorative/Functional): 5/10
BV S1029 Pleats/belt loops: 10
Lining: 15
TRIM PERFORMANCE BV S1023 Minimum (lbs): 15 All on garment
BV S1044
(Button Attachment strength (not limited to buttons and
Snap attachment strength snaps)
Hook & Eye/Bar attachment
strength)
ZIPPER TEST ASTM D2061 Zipper Operability All zipper brands
Chain Crosswise Strength
Top Stop Holding
Holding Strength of slider
lock
Bottom Stop Holding (if
applicable)
Note: See spec. #814 for
requirements.
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims
GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 150, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3
Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
Rayon/blends -5/+5
Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -
7/+3 x -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -
AATCC 158, 1 cycle 3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 150/158, as per care Color change: 4
WASHING/ DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5
No visual change in appearance
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3%
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
SEAM STRETCHABILITY AATCC TS 015 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation Knits only
All seams
SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE ASTM D1683 Minimum (lbs) Actual seams; all seams
BV S 1027 Seams/stress points: 15
BV S 1029 Pockets (decorative/functional):
5/10
Pleats/belt loops: 10
Lining: 15
TRIM PERFORMANCE BV S1023 Minimum (lbs): 15 All on garment
BV S1044
(Button Attachment strength (not limited to buttons and
Snap attachment strength snaps)
Hook & Eye/Bar attachment
strength)
ZIPPER TEST ASTM D2061 Zipper Operability All zipper brands
Chain Crosswise Strength
Top Stop Holding
Holding Strength of slider lock
Bottom Stop Holding (if
applicable)
Note: See spec. # 814 for
requirements.
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims
OUTERWEAR (#004)
GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL AATCC 150, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
STABILITY TO (as per care Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3
WASHING/ instructions) Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
DRYCLEANING
Rayon/blends -5/+5
For “dryclean only”
Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3
fabrics: x -7/+3
Hand wash, line dry Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3
or flat dry Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
Length x Width (max. %)
AATCC 158, 1 cycle Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 150/158, as per Color change: 4
WASHING/ care Self-staining: 4.5
DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) No visual change in appearance
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3%
LAUNDERING/DRY Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
CLEANING
SEAM STRETCHABILITY AATCC TS 015 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation Knits only
All seams
SEAM ASTM D1683 Seams: 25 Actual seams; all seams
STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE BV S 1027 Stress Points: 20
BV S1029 Pockets
(decorative/functional): 10/20
Pleats/belt loops: 10
Lining; 15
DOWNPROOFNESS IDFL 5530 Minimum 4 If down product
(Tumbling Method)
FTM 191, Method 5530
(modified)
TRIM PERFORMANCE BV S1023 Minimum (lbs): 15 All on garment
BV S1044
(Button Attachment (not limited to buttons
strength and snaps)
Snap attachment strength
Hook & Eye/Bar attachment
strength)
ZIPPER TEST ASTM D2061 Zipper Operability All zipper brands
Chain Crosswise Strength
Top Stop Holding
Holding Strength of slider lock
Bottom Stop Holding (if applicable)
Note: See spec. # 814 for
requirements.
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims
FABRIC TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
PHYSICAL
CHARACTERISTICS
FABRIC WEIGHT ASTM D3776 +/- 5% All washes, one color
(oz/sq yard) only
FABRIC COUNT ASTM D3775/D3887 +/- 5% All washes, one color
only
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single Fiber: No tolerance One color only
ASTMD276/629 Blends-: +/- 3%
YARN SIZE ASTM D1059 +/- 10% Non-stretch upon request
PERFORMANCE
FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test Negative For all “washes” - one
MTL C1007 color only.
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %) Washable fabrics
WASHING (as per care instructions) -3/+3 x -3/+3 All washes, one color
only.
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 158, 1 cycle Length x Width (max. %) Dryclean fabrics
DRYCLEANING -2/+2 x -2/+2 All washes, one color
only
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, as per care Color change: 4 All washes, one color
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5 only
No visual change in
appearance
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY Coteco No visual change in All washes, one color
/APPEARANCE AFTER STEAM appearance only
PRESS Length x Width (max %)
-2/+2 x -2/+2
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 3% All washes, one color only
LAUNDERING/ DRYCLEANING Method 1, Option 2
INTIMATES (#006)
(Including Bras, Camisoles, Panties)
Page 1 of 3
FABRIC TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
PHYSICAL
CHARACTERISTICS
FABRIC WEIGHT ASTM D3776 +/- 5% One color only
(oz/sq yard)
FABRIC COUNT ASTM D3775/D3887 +/- 5% One color only
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single Fiber: No tolerance One color only
ASTMD276/629 Blends: +/- 3%
GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 150, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3
Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
Rayon/blends -5/+5
Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -
7/+3 x -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -
AATCC 158, 1 cycle 3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/ AATCC 150/158, as per Color change: 4
DRYCLEANING care Self-staining: 4.5
(3 cycles/ 1 cycle) No visual change in appearance
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3%
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
SEAM STRETCHABILITY AATCC TS 015 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation Knits only
All seams
SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE ASTM D1683 <4 oz/sq yard: 15 Actual seams; all seams
4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 20
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 25
Bras:
Strap joining/Cup Seam/Front:
15 lbs or 40% elongation
TRIM PERFORMANCE BV S1023 Minimum: 15 lbs. All on garment
BV S1044
(Button Attachment strength (not limited to buttons
Snap attachment strength and snaps)
Hook & Eye/Bar attachment
strength)
ZIPPER TEST ASTM D2061 Zipper Operability All zipper brands
Chain Crosswise Strength
Top Stop Holding
Holding Strength of slider lock
Bottom Stop Holding (if
applicable)
Note: See spec. #814 for
requirements.
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims
SLEEPWEAR (#007)
Page 1 of 3
FABRIC TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
PHYSICAL
CHARACTERISTICS
FABRIC WEIGHT ASTM D3776 +/- 5% One color only
(oz/sq yard)
FABRIC COUNT ASTM D3775/D3887 +/- 5% One color only
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single Fiber:: No tolerance One color only
ASTM D276/629 Blends: +/- 3%
**If making additional “claims” on the garment (such as “breathable”, “absorbent”, “wicking”,
etc.), additional testing will be required. Consult with Director of Fabric and Testing and see
“Additional Testing”.
GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3
Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
Rayon/blends -5/+5
Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle:
-7/+3 x -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -
10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x
AATCC 150, 1 cycle -3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 150/158, as per care Color change: 4
WASHING/ DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5
No visual change in
appearance
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3%
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
SEAM STRETCHABILITY AATCC TS 015 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation Knits only
All seams
SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE ASTM D1683 <4 oz/sq yard: 15 Actual seams; all seams
BV S1027 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 20
BV S1029 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 25
Stress Points: 20
Pockets
(decorative/functional):10/20
Pleats/belt loops: 10
Lining: 15
SWEATERS (#009)
Page 1 of 3
FABRIC TESTING
(Performed after final factory garment wash)
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single Fiber: No tolerance One color only
ASTM D276/629 Blends: +/- 3%
GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
GARMENT WEIGHT Standard Measure Report Actual - lbs per dozen
LEATHER (#010)
Page 1 of 3
FABRIC TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
PHYSICAL
CHARACTERISTICS
MATERIAL IDENTIFICATION Microscopic Verify leather material One color only
Leather Shell (man-made; genuine; etc)
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Verify content of lining. One color only
Lining Fabric ASTMD276/629
Others: 6-8
FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only
Leather (See “Performance
Lining Fabric Specifications-
Flammability for details)
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO Professional Leather Length x Width (max. %) Leather: One color only
LEATHER CLEANING Cleaning, 1 cycle Leather: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Woven:: One color only
Knits: All colors
Lining fabric: Lining Fabric
AATCC 158, 1 cycle Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knit: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER Professional Leather Clean, Color change: 4 As above
LEATHER CLEANING 1 cycle Self-staining: 4.5
No visual change in
appearance.
GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO Professional Leather Length x Width (Max. %)
LEATHER CLEANING Cleaning, 1 cycle -2/+2 x -2/+2
(INCLUDING DIFFERENTIAL
SHRINKAGE)
APPEARANCE AFTER Professional Leather Color change: 4
LEATHER CLEANING Cleaning, 1 cycle Self-staining: 4.5
No visual change in
appearance
SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE ASTM D1683 Minimum (lbs)
Lining to garment: 15
Other seams: 20
Stress points:20
Pockets
(Decorative/Functional):
10/20
Lining: 15
TRIM PERFORMANCE BV S1023 Minimum (lbs): 15 All on garment
BV S1044
(Button Attachment strength (not limited to buttons and
Snap attachment strength snaps)
Hook & Eye/Bar attachment
strength)
ZIPPER TEST ASTM D2061 Zipper Operability All zipper brands
Chain Crosswise Strength
Top Stop Holding
Holding Strength of slider
lock
Bottom Stop Holding (if
applicable)
Note: See spec. # 814 for
requirements.
FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 For trim, if applicable
16 CFR 1611 (See “Performance
Specifications-
Flammability for details)
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims
If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing)
AT01 Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, line dry or flat dry cool iron if
needed.
AT02 Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low, do not iron or
dryclean.
AT03 Machine wash cold, do not bleach, tumble dry low, warm iron if needed.
AT04 Machine wash cold, do not bleach, line dry or flat dry, warm iron if needed.
AT05 Machine wash cold, gentle cycle, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low
remove promptly, warm iron if needed.
AT06 Machine wash cold, gentle cycle, do not bleach, line dry, warm iron if needed.
AT07 Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, line dry or flat dry, warm iron if
needed.
AT08 Machine wash warm, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low, warm iron if
needed.
AT09 Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed tumble dry low, warm iron if
needed.
AT10 Hand wash cold, do not bleach, reshape, dry flat , cool iron if needed.
AT11 Hand wash cold, do not bleach, reshape, dry flat, warm/cool iron if needed or dryclean.
AT12 Hand wash cold, do not bleach, line dry or dry flat, warm iron if needed.
AT13 Hand wash cold, do not bleach, dry flat, warm/cool iron if needed or dryclean.
AT14 Machine wash warm, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low remove
promptly, warm iron if needed.
AT15 Machine wash warm, do not bleach, line dry or dry flat, warm/cool iron if needed or
dryclean.
AT16 Machine wash warm, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low remove
promptly, do not iron.
AT17 Machine wash warm, only non-chorine bleach when needed, tumble dry medium remove
promptly, warm iron if needed.
AT18 Machine wash warm, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low remove
promptly, cool iron if needed.
AT19 Hand wash cold, do not bleach, line dry, warm iron if needed.
AT20 Dryclean
AT21 Professionally leather clean only
AT22 Dryclean only
AT23 Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low, warm iron if
needed.
AT24 Dryclean, do not steam press.
Remark: “Wash with like colors” maybe used on SOLID COLOR garments if color staining on multifiber
strip does not exceed class 2.5 in the colorfastness to washing test.
Ann Taylor will also engage in the retailing of branded and co-branded product. In order to
ensure corporate and regulatory compliance, such products must be tested by an
independent testing laboratory prior to delivery.
Test protocols for branded and co-branded product can be found on pages 83 to 96 of
this manual.
Note: These are not the same as test protocols for Ann Taylor Corporate.
COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61/AATCC 132 Minimum All colors
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING 1A - hand wash Color change: 4 (as applicable)
2A - machine wash Color staining: 3.5
40 C - cold Self-staining: 4.5
49 C - warm
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics; All
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4 colors
For coated or painted trims, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage
Lead content 16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% (600 All colors
ASTM E1613/E1645 ppm) lead content based on
(Mod.) the weight of the dried paint
or coating film
Heavy Metals EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 Must not exceed these
ASTM F963 Arsenic: 25 limits (ppm) for soluble
Barium: 1000 migrated element
Cadmium: 75
Chromium: 60
Lead: 90
Mercury: 60
Selenium: 500
Nickel Test EN 1811 Transfer to skin less than 0.5. Only if supplier indicated
EN12472 micrograms per square that the item is “nickel-
(report results with and centimeter per week free”.
without coating)
(Nickel is possible in
coatings or special colors)
For material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on
clothing), add the following test if not tested at trim stage
COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61/AATCC 132 Minimum All colors
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING 1A - hand wash Color change: 4 (as applicable)
2A - machine wash Color staining: 3.5
40 C - cold Self-staining: 4.5
49 C - warm
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics; All colors
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics; All colors
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4
GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 150, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3
Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
Rayon/blends -5/+5
Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle:
-7/+3 X -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-
10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x
-3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
AATCC 158, 1 cycle Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 150/158, as per care Color change: 4
WASHING/ DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5
No visual change in
appearance
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims
For coated or painted trim, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage
Lead content 16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% (600 All colors
ASTM E1613/E1645 ppm) lead content based on
(Mod.) the weight of the dried
paint or coating film
Heavy Metals EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 Must not exceed these
ASTM F963 Arsenic: 25 limits (ppm) for soluble
Barium: 1000 migrated element
Cadmium: 75
Chromium: 60
Lead: 90
Mercury: 60
Selenium: 500
Nickel Test EN 1811 Transfer to skin less than Only if supplier
EN12472 0.5. micrograms per square indicated that the item
(report results with and centimeter per week is “nickel-free”.
without coating)
(Nickel is possible in
coatings or special
colors)
If material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and
attachments on clothing), add the following test if not tested at trim stage.
Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) PVC 30 ppm All Colors
(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256,
CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)
COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61 / AATCC 132 Minimum All colors
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING 1A - hand wash Color change: 4 (as applicable)
2A - machine wash Color staining: 3.5
40 C - cold Self-staining: 4.5
49 C - warm
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics: All
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4 colors
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics: All
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4 colors
Page 2 of 2
GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 150, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3
Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
Rayon/blends -5/+5
Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -
7/+3 x -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -
AATCC 158, 1 cycle 3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 150/158, as per care Color change: 4
WASHING/ DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5
No visual change in appearance
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims
For coated or painted trims, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
Lead content 16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% (600 All colors
ASTM E1613/E1645 ppm) lead content based on
(Mod.) the weight of the dried paint
or coating film
Heavy Metals EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 Must not exceed these
ASTM F963 Arsenic: 25 limits (ppm) for soluble
Barium: 1000 migrated element
Cadmium: 75
Chromium: 60
Lead: 90
Mercury: 60
Selenium: 500
Nickel Test EN 1811 Transfer to skin less than 0.5. Only if supplier
EN12472 micrograms per square indicated that the item
(report results with and centimeter per week is “nickel-free”.
without coating)
(Nickel is possible in
coatings or special
colors)
For material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and
attachments on clothing), add the following test if not tested at trim stage
COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 Minimum All colors
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING 1A - hand wash Color change: 4 (as applicable)
2A - machine wash Color staining: 3.5
40C - cold Self-staining: 4.5
49 C - warm
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics; all colors
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics; all colors
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4
FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test Negative One color only
MTL C1007
If positive, proceed with 75 ppm
JIS L1041
pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), All colors
Wool/wool blends: 4.5-7
Others: 6-8
Page 2 of 2
GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL AATCC 150, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
STABILITY TO (as per care Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3
WASHING/ instructions) Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
DRYCLEANING
Rayon/blends -5/+5
For “dryclean only”
Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3
fabrics: x -7/+3
Hand wash, line dry Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3
or flat dry Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
Length x Width (max. %)
AATCC 158, 1 cycle Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 150/158, as per Color change: 4
WASHING/ care Self-staining: 4.5
DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) No visual change in appearance
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims
For coated or painted trim, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
Lead content 16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% (600 ppm) All colors
ASTM E1613/E1645 lead content based on the
(Mod.) weight of the dried paint or
coating film
Heavy Metals EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 Must not exceed these
ASTM F963 Arsenic: 25 limits (ppm) for soluble
Barium: 1000 migrated element
Cadmium: 75
Chromium: 60
Lead: 90
Mercury: 60
Selenium: 500
Nickel Test EN 1811 Transfer to skin less than 0.5. Only if supplier indicated
EN12472 micrograms per square that the item is “nickel-
(report results with centimeter per week free”.
and without coating)
(Nickel is possible in
coatings or special
colors)
For material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on
clothing), add the following tests if not tested at trim stage
FABRIC TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single Fiber: No tolerance One color only
ASTMD276/629 Blends-: +/- 3%
FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 (See “Performance
Specifications-
Flammability for details)
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %) Washable fabrics
WASHING (as per care instructions) -3/+3 x -3/+3 All washes, one color
only.
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 158, 1 cycle Length x Width (max. %) Dryclean fabrics
DRYCLEANING -2/+2 x -2/+2 All washes, one color
only
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, as per care Color change: 4 All washes, one color
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5 only
No visual change in
appearance
COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 Minimum: All washes, all colors
LAUNDERING / Hand washables: 1A Color change: 4 (as applicable)
DRYCLEANING Machine washables: 2A Color staining: 3
Warm:49C Cold: 40C Self-staining: 4.5
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS 001 Minimum 4 Washable fabrics;
CHLORINE BLEACH All washes, all colors
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC TS 001 Minimum 4 Washable fabrics; all
CHLORINE BLEACH washes, all colors
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 8, 116 Minimum: All washes, all colors
CROCKING Dry: 3; Wet 2
If dry crocking does not
meet Class 3, or wet
crocking class 2, wash 1X
according to the care label of
garment and repeat crocking
test.
FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test Negative For all “washes” - one
MTL C1007 color only.
For coated or painted trims, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
Lead content 16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% (600 All colors
ASTM E1613/E1645 ppm) lead content based on
(Mod.) the weight of the dried paint
or coating film
Heavy Metals EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 Must not exceed
ASTM F963 Arsenic: 25 these limits (ppm) for
Barium: 1000 soluble migrated
Cadmium: 75 element
Chromium: 60
Lead: 90
Mercury: 60
Selenium: 500
Nickel Test EN 1811 Transfer to skin less than Only if supplier
EN12472 0.5. micrograms per square indicated that the
(report results with and centimeter per week item is “nickel-free”.
without coating) (Nickel is possible in
coatings or special
colors)
For material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on
clothing), add the following test if not tested at trim stage
Page 1 of 2
FABRIC TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single Fiber: No tolerance One color only
ASTMD276/629 Blends: +/- 3%
COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 Minimum All colors
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING 1A - hand wash Color change: 4 (as applicable)
2A - machine wash Color staining: 3.5
40C - cold Self-staining: 4.5
49 C - warm
GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 150, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3
Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
Rayon/blends -5/+5
Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -
7/+3 x -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -
AATCC 158, 1 cycle 3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/ AATCC 150/158, as per Color change: 4
DRYCLEANING care Self-staining: 4.5
(3 cycles/ 1 cycle) No visual change in appearance
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims
For coated or painted trims, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage
For material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing), add
the following tests if not tested at trim stage
SWEATERS (#009A)
Page 1 of 2
FABRIC TESTING
(Performed after final factory garment wash)
COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 Minimum All colors
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING 1A - hand wash Color change: 4 (as applicable)
2A - machine wash Color staining: 3.5
40C - cold Self-staining: 4.5
49C - warm
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics: All
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4 colors
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics: All
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4 colors
FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test Negative One color only
MTL C1007
If positive, proceed with 75 ppm
JIS L1041
pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), All colors
Wool/wool blends: 4.5-7
Others: 6-8
Page 2 of 2
GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 150, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (as per care instructions) Rayon/blends: -5/+5
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
AATCC 158, 1 cycle Others: -5/+3
-5/+2 x -5/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 150/158, as per care Color change: 4
WASHING/ DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5
No visual change in
appearance
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3%
LAUNDERING Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
SEAM STRETCHABILITY AATCC TS 015 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation All seams, stress points,
pockets (decorative/
functional)
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims
For coated or painted trims, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage
For material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing), add
the following tests if not tested at trim stage
Safety First
The safety of children
is our #1 Priority!
In addition to the construction and manufacturing requirements listed, reasonable judgment and care
must be exercised by the garment manufacturers to avoid any latent hazard. Ann Taylor must be
notified if, in the opinion of the manufacturer, the design of the garment cannot be executed without
creating a potential hazard.
The tests and requirements cited were developed by the following government offices and industry
associations:
Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC)
Federal Trade Commission (FTC)
American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM)
American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)
The International Organization for Standardization (ISO)
German Institute for Standardization (DIN)
Note:
Individual states may have additional requirements.
Flammability
All fabric must meet the normal flammability standards with the added requirement.
Flame Retardant finishes may not be applied to any garment without written approval from NY Production
and NY Director of Fabric and Testing.
Ann Taylor does not intend to produce any garments for sleepwear; however, it is the responsibility of New
York design and Production to assure that none of the garments could be “classified as sleepwear” (even
though they are not intended to be). See details in Appendix A.
Consult NY Director of Fabric and Testing (for special requirements/testing) if any garment could be
classified as “sleepwear”.
Lead Content
16 CFR 1303
Requirement: Less than 0.06% (600 ppm), based on the total weight of the dried paint or coating film.
Required for all painted, coated, and printed surfaces, including decals
Nickel
Metal accessories must be “Nickel-free” even if the item does not come in contact with the skin (nickel
usually triggers the needle detectors, a mandatory process for these garment sizes).
Exception: Small metal items (i.e. snaps, small buttons, etc.) with a low amount of nickel may pass
through the needle detector without an alarm. If the garment manufacturer confirms that an item does
not trigger the alarm then such nickel containing items can be used provided that they do not come in
prolonged contact with the skin.
Azo dyes
All fabrics, trims and accessories must be free of the AZO dyes (including Blue colourant #611-070-00-2)
and pigments that are banned (see Appendix B). This also applies to leather and other components.
(testing upon request only)
Formaldehyde
JIS L-1041
Requirement: Less than 1000 ppm (0.1% by weight) of the above substances.
Stuffing Materials
ASTM F963
Requirement: Material must be disclosed. All filling material must be new and free of contaminants such
as splinters, metal chips etc.
Colorfastness
The supplier must take every possible step to assure that Ann Taylor’s colorfastness requirements are met.
Such steps include, but are not limited to, the selection of the best dyestuffs available, extra rinsing, dye
fixation, etc.
Note: All cotton fabrics must be dyed with reactive or vat dyes. Indigo dyes can be used where
applicable. Sulfur or direct dyes are not accepted, unless specifically requested by Ann Taylor for special
effects.
Colorfastness to Saliva
LMBG 82.10 Section 35 (German Industrial Norm)
Requirement: Solution #1 only. Minimum class 4.5 per AATCC Gray Scale.
No needles or parts of needles can be left in any garment. No pins allowed in packaging. Must use needle
detector and needle control system in factory. (See Construction and Manufacturing Requirements,
“Sewing Needle Control”)
Small Parts
• “Small parts” on toys or other articles (i.e. garments) pose choking, aspiration, and ingestion hazards to
young children. Some examples include, but are not limited to, functional and non-functional buttons, snaps,
and decorative items.
• It is necessary to ensure that all buttons, snaps, and decorative items (i.e. small parts) are attached to the
garments securely and appropriately so that they will withstand the reasonable use and abuse of the children
and infants who wear them.
• Articles must undergo use and abuse tests to simulate the “normal use and reasonable foreseeable damage
and abuse” which articles may undergo under ordinary conditions.
Removal of small parts “use and abuse” testing (age group up to 8 years)
• a child can grasp with the thumb and forefinger or the teeth,
Examples: appliqués, bows, poms, buckles, buttons, snaps, zipper pulls, etc.
Note: Yarns and textile fabric are exempt from requirement; however, these items must be reviewed
on an individual basis, as exempt items can also be considered “substantial product hazards”.
• Any piece that detaches from the article due to these “use and abuse” testing procedures must then be
evaluated to determine if it complies with the small parts standard (16 CFR 1501). If the detached article fits
into the small parts cylinder, it can be considered a “substantial product hazard”.
No small parts, sharp points, or sharp edges before or after “use and abuse” testing.
Lead Paint:
16 CFR 1303
Requirement: Less than 0.06% (600 ppm), based on the total weight of the dried paint or coating film.
Antimony 60 ppm
Arsenic 25 ppm
Barium 1000 ppm
Cadmium 75 ppm
Chromium 60 ppm
Lead 90 ppm
Mercury 60 ppm
Selenium 500 ppm
Requirements: Less than 1000 ppm (0.1% by weight) of the following substances:
Azo Dyes
All items must be free of the AZO dyes and pigments that are banned (see Appendix B).
Flammability
16 CFR Part 1500.3 and 1500.44 (as for “rigid or pliable solids”).
Note: Each toy must also be evaluated on an individual basis for additional tests that might be necessary.
Consult NY Director of Fabric and Testing when needed.
Requirement: Actual thickness shall not be less than 0.00125 in. (0.03175 mm).
Trim Information
Season
Trim Supplier
Garment Facility/Factory
Supplier Trim Number
P.O. Number
Detailed Description
Color/Color Combination
Internally Dyed/Dyed to match
Coating/Paint
Size
Material (i.e. melamine, polyester, metal composition, etc.)
Nickel content (i.e. “nickel-free”)
Billing Information
Company Contact
Address Telephone
Fax
Corporate Policy: All vendors supplying finished products to Ann Taylor for confirmed production orders are required to
incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merchandise destroyed during the testing process.
Development testing will be charged back to your department. Rush service is available upon request after 48 hours of lab
receipt at 40% surcharge.
Fabric Information
Season
Fabric Supplier
RMID #/Fabric Quality Number
P.O. Number
Type of Fabric (woven/knit)
Construction (i.e. twill, jersey, pique, etc)
Fiber Content
Yarn Dye/Piece Dye
Fabric Finish (ie coated, washed, water repellent, etc)
Resin-treated?
Color(s)
Anticipated Care Instructions:
Garment Information
Season
Garment Facility (factory)
Style number (of garment actually sent in for testing)
Reference Style numbers (if applicable)
P.O. Number
Garment Description
Fiber Content
Color/Color Combination
Garment Finish (i.e. garment wash, etc.)
Care Instructions:
Billing Information
Company Contact
Address Telephone
Fax
Corporate Policy: All vendors supplying finished products to Ann Taylor for confirmed production orders are required
to incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merchandise destroyed during the testing process.
Development testing will be charged back to your department. Rush service is available upon request after 48 hours of
lab receipt at 40% surcharge.
TRIM TESTING
3. The factory must send representative trims (prior to garment production) to an Ann Taylor
designated commercial laboratory (see section VI-D of Apparel Manual for complete listing).
• All the required trim information must be given to the laboratory (See Ann Taylor Test
Request Form--Trim).
• Make sure to mark which Ann Taylor division this trim is for and a contact, as the lab
will send the test reports directly to the regional production office.
• Additional trims must be sent to the laboratory if needed (consult with lab).
4. Although certain types of trims are too small to be tested for flammability at trim and/or garment
stage, it is the supplier’s responsibility to make sure all applicable trims would comply with the
normal flammability requirements. It is recommended that applicable trims be tested in a larger
form before proceeding with production.
PRODUCTION
Trim Testing Protocols
Page 2 of 2
LEAD CONTENT 16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% (600 All colors
ASTM 1613/E1645 ppm) lead content based on the
(mod.) weight of the dried paint or
coating film
HEAVY METALS EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 Must not exceed these limits
Arsenic: 25 (ppm) for soluble migrated
Barium: 1000 element
Cadmium: 75
Chromium: 60
Lead: 90
Mercury: 60
Selenium: 500
NICKEL TEST EN 1811; EN12472 Transfer to skin less than 0.5. Only if supplier indicated that the
(report results with micrograms per square item is “nickel-free”.
and without centimeter per week (Nickel is possible in coatings or
coating) special colors)
If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments
on clothing)
Lead in PVC
LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (modified) 30 ppm All Colors
(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256,
CGC-02-403328, and CFC-05-440721)
Lead in PU
LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (modified) 100 ppm All Colors
b) Shell buttons
15 lbf
c) Horn buttons
18 lbf
SNAP ACTION ASTM D4846 Min: 2 lbs Test all sizes/shapes. One color
BV-S 1045 Max: 5 lbs only.
CORROSION ASTM B117 (mod) No visual change in Test any one size
RESISTANCE 24 hours in 1% Salt appearance All colors and finishes
Spray (Fog) No signs of staining,
corrosion, oxidation or
discoloration.
NICKEL TEST EN 1811, EN 12472 Transfer to skin less Only if supplier indicated that the
Report results with than 0.5. micrograms item is “nickel-free”.
and without coating per square centimeter
per week
HEAVY METALS EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 Must not exceed these limits (ppm)
Arsenic: 25 for soluble migrated element
Barium: 1000
Cadmium: 75
Chromium: 60
Lead: 90
Mercury: 60
Selenium: 500
AATCC158 (3X
Commercial Dryclean
If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments
on clothing)
Lead in PVC
LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (Modified) 30 ppm All Colors
(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256,
CGC-02-403328, and CFC-05-440721)
Lead in PU
LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (modified) 100 ppm All Colors
Requirement (lbf)
Required test Test Method Use Use Use Use Notes
A B C D
If painted or coated
Add the following tests
LEAD CONTENT 16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% All colors
ASTM E1613/E1645 (600 ppm) lead content
(mod.) based on the weight of the
dried paint or coating
film
HEAVY METALS ASTM F963 Maximums If metal, all with or without
See “Accessories made of surface coating. If coated, test
metal” coating in each color.
If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments
on clothing)
Lead in PVC
LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (modified) 30 ppm All colors
(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256,
CGC-02-403328, and CFC-05-440721)
Lead in PU
LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (modified) 100 ppm All colors
If made of metal
HEAVY METALS EN 71 Part III See above See above
Minimum sample requirement: 1 yard (if in fabric form of at least 40” in width) OR 4 yards (taping)
Page 1 of 2
DIMENSIONAL AATCC 135 Report actual shrinkage. Test one color only
STABILITY TO Acceptance depends on Three launderings
LAUNDERING compatibility with fabric in
specific garment
DIMENSIONAL AATCC 158 Report actual shrinkage. Test one color only
STABILITY TO Acceptance depends on One dryclean only
DRYCLEANING compatibility with fabric in
specific garment.
If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments
on clothing)
Lead in PVC
LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (modified) 30 ppm All colors
(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256,
CGC-02-403328, and CFC-05-440721)
Lead in PU
LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (modified) 100 ppm All colors
If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments
on clothing)
Lead in PVC
LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (modified) 30 ppm All colors
(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256,
CGC-02-403328, and CFC-05-440721)
Lead in PU
LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (modified) 100 ppm All colors
Fabric Testing
Responsibility of Suppliers
1. The fabric supplier is responsible for testing all fabrics according to the Ann Taylor requirements and for
the cost of such tests.
2. Fabric tests must be done at development stage and on the first production dye lot of each fabric, each
season. See testing protocols for development and production fabric. Ann Taylor will specify if any
additional tests must be done depending on the fabric.
3. The tests must be done by an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory (see section VI-D in Apparel
Manual for complete listing). All required fabric information must be given to the laboratory (see Ann Taylor
Test Request Form - Fabric).
4. In addition, the fabric supplier must test each dye lot internally to assure that all fabrics meet the
requirements. These test reports do not have to be submitted to Ann Taylor but the supplier must keep them
for review by Ann Taylor personnel if any problems arise.
6. All denim testing must be done after the final wash treatment. Testing is not required on non-wash (i.e.
rigid) denim.
DEVELOPMENT
Fabric Testing Protocol (ITC Spec. #001)
(For all fabrics and fabrics used as trim)
Sample required: 2.5 yards
Page 1 of 3
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %) One color only
TO WASHING (as per care instructions)
Cold: 80F (27C) Wovens: Washable fabrics;
Warm: 105F (40C) General: -3%x-3%(CVC), -3%x-3%(CVS) Fabrics where “dry clean
Stretch w/spandex: -4%x-4%(CVC),
-3%x-3%(CVS)
only” is recommended
For “dry clean only” Corduroy, velvet, terry, flannel:
fabrics: Hand wash, line -5%x-5%(CVC),-4%x-4%(CVS)
dry or flat dry. Dobby, jacquard, basket, pique:
-6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x-5%(CVS)
wool/silk
-4%x-4%(CVC),-3%x-3%(CVS)
Growth: +1% maximum
Knits:
General: -5%x-5%(CVC), -4%x-4%(CVS)
Stretch w/spandex: -6%x-5%(CVC),
-5%x-4%(CVS)
Fleece, Sherpa, french terry:
-6%x-6%(CVC), -5%x-5%(CVS)
Rib/waffle/pique:
-6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x-5%(CVS)
Jersey, interlock, pointelle: -6%x -5%(CVC),
-5%x-5%(CVS)
Thermal: -8%x-8%(CVC), -7%x-7%(CVS)
Wool (washable): -5%x-5%
Silk (washable): -6%x-6%
Growth: +3% maximum
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY AATCC 158, 1 cycle Length x Width (max. %) One color only
TO DRYCLEANING Wovens: Dry clean fabrics
-2.0%x-2.0%
Growth: No growth allowed
Knits:
-3.0% x -3.0%
Growth: No growth allowed
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, as per No obvious defects/observations
WASHING/DRYCLEANING care (3 cycles/1cycle) affecting the end product
performance/appearance, color
change/staining. Satisfactory
performance of the components and
trims. List all observations.
Page 2 of 3
Page 3 of 3
PRODUCTION
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single Fiber : No tolerance One color only
Blends: +/- 3%
YARN SIZE ASTM D1059 +/- 10% Non-stretch upon request
(one color only)
PERFORMANCE
FORMALDEHYDE JIS L1041 <20 ppm One color only
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %) Woven - one color only
TO WASHING (as per care instructions) Wovens: General: -3%x- Knits - all colors
3%(CVC), -3%x-3%(CVS)
Cold: 80F (27C) Stretch w/spandex: -4%x- Washable fabrics;
4%(CVC),
Warm: 105F (40C) -3%x-3%(CVS)
Fabrics where “dry clean
Corduroy, velvet, terry, flannel: only” is recommended
For “dry clean only” -5%x-5%(CVC),-4%x-4%(CVS)
fabrics: Dobby, jacquard, basket, pique:
Hand wash, line dry or flat -6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x-5%(CVS)
dry Wool/silk
-4%x-4%(CVC),-3%x-3%(CVS)
Growth: +1% maximum
Knits:
General: -5%x-5%(CVC), -4%x-
4%(CVS)
Stretch w/spandex: -6%x-
5%(CVC),
-5%x-4%(CVS)
Fleece, sherpa, french terry:
-6%x-6%(CVC), -5%x-
5%(CVS)
Rib,waffle, pique:
-6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x-5%(CVS)
Jersey, interlock, pointelle: -
6%x-5%(CVC),
-5%x-5%(CVS)
Thermal: -8%x-8%(CVC), -
Page 2 of 5
Page 3 of 5
Page 4 of 5
Note: Garment-dyed: all tests should be performed on the dyed garments after final garment wash.
Severe “garment-wash” programs: all tests should be performed after the final garment wash.
Page 5 of 5
GARMENT TESTING
Responsibility of Garment Suppliers
1. The garment supplier is responsible for all garments to be tested according to the Ann Taylor
requirements and for the cost of such tests.
2. The factory must send a representative garment (at least 5 samples) from the beginning of
their bulk production to an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory.
• All the required garment information must be given to the laboratory (see Ann Taylor
Test Request Form--Garment)
• Additional garments must be sent to the laboratory if needed (consult with lab).
3. All tests for sweaters (including fabric) should be done after the final factory garment wash.
4. Garment dye, stone/enzyme washing:
• The garment supplier is responsible to perform all fabric tests in addition to the garment
tests (after the garments are completely finished). This does not apply to regular garment
wash.
• It is the garment manufacturer's responsibility to test all fabrics and trim for bleeding and
other problems during this process before starting garment production.
• If necessary the garment supplier must modify his washing procedure to avoid staining or
other problems.
•
Garment Testing
1. The purpose of garment testing is to evaluate all the different components of a garment together
while being cleaned 3 times (1 time if dry cleaned) according to the care label. We are looking
for appearance, bleeding, puckering, shrinkage, seam strength, or anything that would make the
garment look or feel undesirable. Pay special attention to trims, accessories and garment prints.
2. The garment construction is also reviewed at this time to ensure compliance with all
Infant/Toddler/Children safety requirements (such as drawstrings, sharp edges, sharp points,
zipper guards, etc.).
3. The garment test must be performed by an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory (See
section VI-D of Apparel Manual for complete listing).
4. Garments must be tested once each season in the production stage. Testing at development stage
may also be requested on an exception basis. The testing must be done after the garment is
completely finished, including “Garment wash”, “Enzyme wash”, “Stone wash”, etc. if
applicable.
• The cost of the testing is the responsibility of the garment supplier.
• This procedure does not relieve the garment supplier of his responsibility to assure the
performance of the garments by total internal quality control throughout the production
cycle.
• It is not necessary to test every color combination, but the most critical color combination must be
selected for testing (i.e. combination of bright/deep colors with white or cream). Pay special
attention to contrasting trim and/or accessories.
• Additional colorway testing may be required at Ann Taylor’s request.
6. If the same garment style is made by more than one supplier, it must be tested individually from each
supplier.
7. Hats and gloves are exempt from care labeling and do not have to be tested unless specifically requested.
However if a care label is requested by NY then the item must be tested just like any other garment.
2. Garment construction review and testing to ensure compliance with all Infant/Toddler/Children
safety requirements.
SEAM STRETCHABILITY AATCC TS 015 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation Knits only
All seams
DOWNPROOFNESS IDFB 5530 Minimum 4 If down product
(tumbling method)
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims
* All Small Parts (zippers, buttons, snaps, bows, etc.) must be tested for removal by the
laboratory. Use and Abuse Testing
• Small Parts testing should be done on the sample in both its original and after-wash (3x) or -
dryclean (1x) states.
• Small parts testing performed on garment in original state should be done on a separate
garment (i.e. one garment for testing small parts in original state, and another garment for
testing Care Label wash test and after-wash small parts). Results must be reported
accordingly.
• All small parts on each garment submitted must be evaluated. For example, if a garment is
submitted that contains 6 snaps, all 6 snaps must be tested.
• If “small parts” detach during the washing process itself, there is no need to then perform the
test after 3X washing, as it would already be considered a major failure at this stage.
• Any failure at laboratory stage must be reported (by the regional office) to the NY Director
of Fabric and Testing and the NY Production department. Any failure requires 5 additional
garments to be sent from the vendor for retesting.
If the additional 5 garments are necessary, 4 garments must be tested for “small parts” in the
original state, while only 1 garment must be washed 3X and tested for “small parts” after
wash.
Zippers
• Only zippers (including all parts) from suppliers approved by Ann Taylor can be used --
currently only YKK.
• Zipper protection is required on all garments. This requirement is specifically for any
"functional" zipper (serving as a closure), with the exception of pocket zippers.
4. Molded Top Stop - Coil Zipper (coil zipper with an enclosed back)
Snap Control
Snap fasteners (functional and non-functional):
• Only snap fasteners from suppliers approved by Ann Taylor can be used --currently only
YKK, Scovill (Acotex), and Prym.
• The guidelines for snap attachment that are issued by YKK/Scovill/Prym must be
followed.
• Snap fasteners must not be applied over seams, fabric joints or uneven fabric thickness.
• The best construction is two plies of fabric and one ply of interlining. If interlining is
used, it must be sewn or fused onto the garment before snap application.
• A sample of each garment style must be sent to snap manufacturer for evaluation and
recommendation of product and machine setting (pinch setting, etc).
• Snap fasteners with uncovered prongs (no socket) are not allowed.
• Prongs must be long enough to properly attach and secure the snap to the seam. Snaps
with the leg of prong exposed are unacceptable.
• Ball and socket of snap must be accurately aligned.
• Grippers must be firmly attached, with no clearance between fabric and gripper.
• The bottom of the post must be flat
• The cap and post must be curled properly.
• The two staples must be completely curled.
• The cap or button must not turn around easily.
• Reused snaps are unacceptable.
• It is permissible however to use a machine other than the one recommended provided
that:
The vendor must check the snap machine at least 2 times each day during
production to ensure the snaps are secure and consistent.
The snap machine must be tested 2 times each day using the tension testing
instrument to officially measure attachment strength. All snaps on actual
garments must be tested.
• Vendor must keep a record of daily inspections, which must be available to Ann Taylor
QA upon request.
• Vendor must have on hand a digital caliber to measure the total pinch setting on a regular
basis. If beyond +/-0.003 inches (of recommendation), snap supplier technicians should
be consulted.
• Data sheet must be kept by factory indicating evaluation of pinch setting anytime there is
a break in the production process (i.e. before work, after lunch, before overtime starts,
etc.).
• Vendor is responsible for 100% inspection of all snaps. Every garment must be
unsnapped and snapped at least 3 times to insure proper attachment.
• Vendor must perform “Removal of small parts” test on actual garments on a random basis
(See Factory Requirements—Small Parts)
Exception:
Hasps can be constructed with a cover plate over the wire joint, provided that the construction
prevents exposure of the wire ends.
This must be tested by repeated twisting and pulling with a minimum force of 16 lbs.
• Tension test is to be done on the actual garment on a random basis by the factory before shipping
and by the Ann Taylor QA person during the regular visits and inspections. (See Garment
Testing-Small Parts).
• If the garment is after-treated (stone, enzyme wash, etc.) the garments must be tested on a random
basis after they are completely finished.
• If the garments are not after-treated (regular garment wash or no wash) then occasionally some
garments should be washed (3X) according to the care label and tested after the washes.
• If a commercial laboratory failure is observed (See Garment Testing), then the factory must:
⇒ Provide an explanation for the poorly set snap, button, etc.
⇒ Indicate units in quarantine because of problem.
⇒ Indicate measures taken to resolve the problem
⇒ Send an additional 5 garments to the laboratory for testing.
If there are any failures in these next 5 garments, then Ann Taylor requires:
An additional 5 garments sent to the laboratory for testing (that must pass)
AND
Written documentation that 100% inspection has been performed by the factory.
Such documentation to be kept by Corporate QC as part of the final inspection report.
Note: Any failures are to be reported to the NY Director of Fabric and Testing and
Production.
Drawstring Requirements
1. No drawstrings will be allowed on hoods or around the neck area of any garments.
2. Drawstrings in any other area, including waist and bottoms, must not be exposed for more
than 3 inches from where the strings extend out of the garment when it is expanded to the
fullest.
In addition such draw cords must be securely fastened in the middle by bar tacking so that
they cannot be removed entirely.
3. No toggles, stoppers or knots can be used at the ends of drawstrings. If cords are made of
100% Polyester or Nylon, the ends should be heat-sealed. (Sharp points must not be created
by this method!). The ends of the drawstrings may be dipped in liquid plastic or tacked in to
prevent fraying.
Plastic tips (such as on shoelaces) may be used provided that they are continuously checked
for tight adherence. If any loose tips are found the whole shipment must be rejected.
Note: When plastic tipping is used at the ends of drawstrings, the tips must withstand a pull-
off force of at least 21 lbs.
Neck Stretch
Up to 12-18 months: 21”
In addition, proper controls over needles and broken needle parts must be maintained in the sewing
operation to prevent such parts from remaining accidentally in the garment.
Machine:
• No spare needles at any sewing machines
• All stock and spare needles must be kept by an appointed production person.
• When there is a needle breakage, production cannot be resumed until all remaining
needle parts are found. Before receiving a replacement needle, sewing machine operator
must submit all pieces of needle.
• Appointed production person is the only one authorized to replace needles. Machine
operators cannot replace needles on their own.
• If all parts of needle cannot be found, then the garment (s) being sewn must be
completely inspected (i.e. hand-held needle detection device). If lost parts still cannot be
found, then garment (s) must be destroyed.
• A “Needle Log” must be kept by the factory to record all broken needles. This log
should list date, time, machine type, operation, product type, and customer’s name. All
broken parts of the needle must be attached to the “Needle Log”. Supervisors must sign
and indicate what course of action was taken if the log shows that some part of the needle
was not found.
• All “Needle Logs” must be available for review by Ann Taylor QA during their regularly
scheduled factory visits and by Ann Taylor offices and/or agents upon request.
Hand:
• Needles must be “checked-out” by the operator at the beginning of each shift
• An operator cannot keep additional needles at his/her location unless noted on the
“check-out” sheet.
• All needles must be “checked-in” at the end of each work shift.
• If an operator has not turned in every needle he/she checked-out, then the operator’s
entire production must be inspected. If the missing needle is still not found, then the
operator’s entire day’s production must be destroyed.
No metal pins, wires, or staples may be used in any part of the production process for
bundling, tacking, or securing components.
Sewing Thread
Monofilament thread must not be used on any garment. Any other kind of continuous
filament thread is also undesirable.
Flame retardant finishes can only be applied if specifically permitted in writing by Ann
Taylor on a case by case basis. Flammability testing must be adjusted accordingly if flame
retardants are used.
Stone Washing
A hang tag should be used on all such garments to advise the consumer that the pockets are stitched shut for
protection during stone washing and for the consumer to remove the threads and open the pockets.
Note: If the pocket stitching is removed prior to shipping, 100% inspection must be performed by the factory to
make sure no stones remain in the pockets.
"WARNING: Plastic bags can be dangerous. To avoid danger of suffocation, keep this bag away from babies
and children." The letter height shall be a minimum of 1/8 inch.
APPENDIX A
Children’s Sleepwear
Children’s Sleepwear classification Guidelines
Ann Taylor does not intend to produce any garments for sleepwear; however, it is the
responsibility of New York design and production to assure that none of the garments could
be “classified as sleepwear” (even though they are not intended to be).
Consult NY Director of Fabric and Testing (for special requirements/testing) if any garment
could be “classified as sleepwear”.
Sleepwear:
Any product or wearing apparel intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities
related to sleeping. Such “activities” include those that a child is involved in while getting
ready for bed or while wearing sleepwear garments before going to bed or after getting up
in the morning.
Note: Hang tags or labels that state that a garment is not intended to be used for sleepwear
are not sufficient and cannot be used to avoid special testing requirements.
2. Is the garment loose fitting, non-restrictive, and made from comfortable fabric (common
characteristics of sleepwear garments)?
• the greater the amount of ornamentation or trim, the greater the likelihood that a
garment will not be considered sleepwear.
Even if a particular garment matches a silhouette, is suitable for use as sleepwear, and is
made from traditional sleepwear fabric, other factors will influence the CPSC decision—such
as:
Design modifications: i.e. snap-shoulder closures are viewed as playwear, not
sleepwear features.
*Consult NY Director of Fabric and Testing (for special requirements/testing) if any garment
could be classified as sleepwear
Note: Customs tariff/quota classification of these garments may not correspond with those
of the CPSC.
Sleepwear Exceptions
(Note: All of below “Sleepwear Exceptions” must still meet the regular flammability
standards, 16 CFR 1610, Class 1)
Sleepwear Silhouettes
Robe:
Note: Use of fabrics outside these weight ranges and/or constructions does not guarantee that a
garment will be considered “playwear”.
Long Underwear:
are considered to be "skin tight" if their critical dimensions are equal to or less than the
standard garment measurements published by the National Institute for Standards and
Technology covering garments in all sizes. If a garment is sized in "ranges", such as Small
(5), Medium (M) and Large (L), the standard measurement used for comparison will be that
of the smallest size within the range. For example, if a “Small” covers sizes 4 to 6, the size
4 standards will be used by the CPSC to determine whether the garment is skin tight.
It is important to note that the CPSC will measure garments prior to shrinkage (i.e.,
The following charts set forth the critical dimensions evaluated by the CPSC:
A. Chest Measurements
B. Hip Measurements
C. Thigh Measurements
17 18 19 20
21 22 23 24 25 25.5
How to measure:
The chest is measured horizontally across the front of the garment from underarm to underarm. This
measurement is then doubled to arrive at the chest circumference. In each size listed, the chest
circumference must be equal to, or less than, the above standard measurements in order for the
garment to be considered skin tight.
Note: Measurements for sizes 0-24 mos (size 0 to 2) are based upon the Size 2 standards for purposes
of long underwear critical dimensions for hips.
How to measure: The hip is first located by using the size standards labeled “Waist to Hip.” For
example, the hip on a size 4 garment will be located exactly 4 ¾ inches from the waistband. Once
the hip is located, it is measured across the front of the garment, and this measurement is doubled to
arrive at the hip circumference. In each size listed, the hip circumference must be equal to, or less
than, the above standard measurements in order for the garment to be considered skin tight.
12 12 12 12
12 12 ½ 13 13 ½ 14 14 ½
Note: Measurements for sizes 0-24 mos (size 0 to 2) are based upon the Size 2 standards for purposes
of long underwear critical dimensions for Thighs.
How to measure: The thigh is measured horizontally across the upper leg area to the crotch. The
measurement is doubled to arrive at the thigh circumference. In each size listed, the thigh
circumference must be equal to, or less than, the above standard measurements in order for the
garment to be considered skin tight.
9-12 mos. 48.3 19 48.3 19 48.3 19 14.3 5.625 26.7 10.5 10.5 4.125 13 5.125
12-18 mos 49.5 19.5 49.5 19.5 50.8 20 14.9 5.875 28.3 11.125 10.5 4.125 13.1 5.125
18-24 mos 52.1 20.5 50.8 20 53.3 21 15.6 6.125 29.5 11.625 11 4.25 13.6 5.375
Size 2 52.1 20.5 50.8 20 53.3 21 15.6 6.125 29.8 11.75 11.4 4.5 14 5.5
Size 3 53.3 21 52.1 20.5 56 22 16.2 6.375 31.4 12.375 11.7 4.625 14.9 5.875
Size 4 56 22 53.3 21 58.4 23 16.8 6.625 33 13 12.1 4.75 15.9 6.25
Size 5 58.4 23 54.6 21.5 61 24 17.5 6.875 34.6 13.625 12.4 4.875 16.8 6.625
Size 6 61 24 55.9 22 63.5 25 18.1 7.125 36.2 14.25 12.7 5 17.8 7
Size 6X 62.9 24.75 57.2 22.5 65.4 25.75 18.7 7.375 37.8 14.875 13 5.125 18.7 7.375
Needle Detectors
100% NEEDLE DETECTION IS A REQUIREMENT FOR GARMENTS SHIPPED IN SIZES INFANTS
AND TODDLERS.
Broken needles are a common problem at factory level, and it is crucial that no sharp points or sharp
edges be found in these garments.
3. Calibration
• Calibration is performed by using a 1.2 mm iron sphere.
• Manufacturer’s instructions must be followed for proper calibration.
• Frequent calibrations---at least twice and day, and always before switching from one garment style
to another. A daily record must be kept by the factory and available to Ann Taylor Corporate QC
upon request.
Note: The weakest point of sensitivity is in the middle of the aperture (#5 in below diagram);
however the iron sphere must be placed through the machine in all 9 areas for calibration purposes.
POINTS OF CALIBRATION
Cross Section of Needle Detector Tunnel
7 8 9
Top
4 5 6
Middle
1 2 3
Bottom
4. If hand-held or table top needle detectors are used, operators must follow the correct operating
procedure and manufacturer’s guidelines. Sensitivity of the machine must still be set to a 1.2 mm iron
sphere.
6. The following materials/processes may adversely effect the needle detecting process
• Stonewashing
• Pigments prints that contain iron
• Packing material that contains iron
• Closed loop accessory (for example, a hasp)
• Motor operated machine