CASE 7-1

Beneath Hijab: Marketing to the Veiled Women of Iran

This teaching note was prepared by Professor Jeffrey A. Fadiman of San Jose State
University.

1. Product selection. What type of product (goods or service) could you, as

marketing director of a small U.S. firm, attempt to test market to the female population of
Iran? Describe in detail. Justify your choice of product.

a. Background. Hijab means modest dress. In practice, most Iranian women express
their adherence to this ideal by wearing a long, black veil (the "chadur") over their other
garments. Ideally, the chadur is intended to protect its wearer from public view, thereby
demonstrating her modesty. Women may, however, wear whatever type of clothing they wish
under the chadur, including garments that make them feel "pretty" or "feminine." When in
private settings (i.e., in the homes of other women) they may freely display this "under clothing,"
taking the same pleasure that a Western woman might in the admiration of feminine friends. In
contrast, clothing that made the wearer feel "sexy" (i.e., designed to attract the attention of men)
would be considered less appropriate by potential buyers.

b. Product. It can be any article of clothing (or under-clothing) that may be completely
concealed under the chadur (when the buyer is in public) yet provide the wearer pleasure when in
the company of other women. Examples: stylishly designed lingerie, skirts, belts, blouses,
scarves, etc.

c. Justification. Upper class Iranian women have traditionally been fashion conscious.
This was particularly true during the previous regime of Shahinshah Pavlevi, whose often stated
goal was to bring Iran into contact with the "modern" (i.e., "Western") world. In consequence,
many urban, educated women--in both the upper and middle classes--became increasingly aware
of Western fashions to the point where they provided an initially small but continuously
increasing demand. Under Khomeini, this demand was stifled, since those who sought Western
goods risked being accused of favoring Western values as well. Nonetheless, under a post-
Khomeini regime, this demand might easily reappear, thereby providing a potential market for a
considerable stylishly designed clothes, designed to make potential buyers feel both "pretty" and
newly fashionable. The same might also apply to services (e.g., hair styling) that may enhance
private attractiveness yet be concealed (under the chadur) when in public.

2. Market segment. Which segment of the market should you target as an initial
clientele? Describe in detail, including sex, age, social class, residential pattern (rural,
suburban, urban), etc. Justify your choice of segment.

The initial client base would most likely be drawn from among women who are urban,
upper or middle class, educated to the level of high school and above, late teens to mid-thirties,
and either single or newly married. These women are likely to have married (or hope to marry)
men of some financial stature. They are, in consequence, unlikely to be price sensitive, but
would demand high quality products of foreign origin--at least partially due to their elitist appeal.

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Members of this segment may also become trend-setters, establishing fashion guidelines that
may subsequently appeal to women in slightly lower income groups.

3. Product modification. In what ways should the product (or service) be modified
to stimulate demand by women, particularly those who continue to wear the black chadur,
thereby conforming to hijab either by preference or in deference to male authority?
Justify your modifications.

a. Whether the product is a "beauty service" or an article of clothing, the styling should
be modified to make it less sexually attractive. This may take the form of adding additional
"frills" (lace, etc.) or adding additional material to an originally "bold" design so as to reveal less
of the body.

b. Colors should be muted. The "electric" shades so popular among young Americans
would be considered inappropriate here, as would the bright primary colors that are popular on
the American West coast. Emphasis should be placed on darker shades, particularly the three
"basic" colors traditional to Islam: black, brown, and blue.

c. If stitched, the product must convey the ability to provide "years" of extended service.
The "throwaway" (intentionally disposable) products now popular in America might be
considered inappropriate, both by female buyers and their husbands.

d. Particular attention must be paid to the label (or logo), if one is to be attached to the
product. If America is politically "popular" among upper and middle-class Iranians during the
period the product is introduced, a U.S. label (or logo) might enhance initial sales. If not, then
the label (or logo) should suggest a different point of product origin, preferably a region known
for high fashion (e.g., France).

e. Attention must also be paid to the material of which the garment is composed.
Contrary to American belief, Iran is not a desert nation. Like our own country, it is composed of
deserts, mountains and temperate areas that vary in temperature according to the season. (In
Teheran, for example, it can both rain and snow). Products aimed exclusively for this market
should be constructed accordingly.

4. Product image. In what ways should the product image be modified to conform
to Iranian religious, ethical, and moral norms, considering that these are entirely imposed
by men. Justify your modifications. Also consider media selection, potential distribution
outlets, point-of-purchase strategies, and so on.

a. Islam forbids representation of the human figure. Therefore, visual displays must
avoid it. Images of animals (e.g., dogs) would also be considered inappropriate, as they hold
much lower status among Moslems.

b. Political ambivalence towards America may have abated. If so, the product might
usefully be associated with American images, so as to link it with Western high-fashion.

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 c. Media selection will be dictated by the level of technology, as well as the
presence/absence of politically imposed restriction. Television, for example, would prove useful
only within urban markets--and then only if the government permits commercial advertising.
Radio may reach rural and semi-urban areas, but may be totally monopolized by governmental
agencies. Women's magazines, however, may prove a useful source of advertising, as will point-
of-purchase displays.

d. The major theme of whatever image is selected should focus on foreign origin,
fashion, and femininity. Its purpose is to make the wearer feel internationally fashionable and
thus attractive among other women. Subordinate themes might emphasize the lightness,
coolness, silky texture and high quality of the garments, but the dominant concept is intended to
intensify feelings of buyer identification with the high fashion centers of the Western world--
without the sexual connotations that might alienate males concerned with preserving the more
puritanical aspects of Islam.

5. On-site project head. Considering both the legacy of hostility that Iranians feel
toward America and their long-range fascination with Western goods, what type of
individual would you select to launch this first-time effort within the country? Based on
the data available to you at this moment, who among your classmates would appear to be
the best selection? Justify your choice.

a. Age: as old as possible. Moslem peoples tend to respect age, equating it with the
acquisition of wisdom.

b. Sex: preferably male. With exceptions, Moslems do not feel women should assume
positions of leadership within commerce, nor that they should operate alone (outside male
jurisdiction). In consequence, they would feel considerable uncertainty in dealing with a U.S.
female project head.

c. Appearance: short hair, beard O.K., impeccably dressed in highly fashionable

Western clothing. Smoker O.K., but ideally should not drink. (In fact, many urban Iranians may
drink moderately, in private; nonetheless, alcohol is offensive to Islam.)

d. Temperament: patient; flexible when dealing with local concepts of time;

comfortable with displays of what Americans consider male chauvinism; deeply interested in
learning more of local culture, literature, history, and perhaps Islam.

e. Language potential: demonstrated foreign language proficiency, through prior study

(preferably, mastery) of any other foreign language. Current research suggests that only after
having learned one foreign language do you know the techniques required to at least partially
learn another. Ideal candidate may not be required to become fluent in Farsi (Iranians do not
speak "Arabic"). He must, however, be willing to learn enough of the language (plus whatever
local dialects prove relevant) to promote empathy among the local peoples with whom he will be
required to deal.

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 f. Special skills: demonstrated ability--through success in prior foreign assignment(s)--
to adjust to foreign ways of doing business, so as to create win-win situations, both for Iranians
with whom he comes in contact and his firm.