These instructions apply to the DREAM HOME Laminate collection

Avoid costly mistakes, please read instructions carefully before beginning Laminate installation.
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DREAM HOME Laminate Flooring (DM) is intended for indoor use only, designed as a glueless floating floor and should not be glued or
nailed to the subfloor. Laminate styles without a pre-attached foam underlayment will require a separate underlayment.

SUBJECT LIST

PRECAUSIONS TOOLS AND MATERIALS

SUBFLOOR REQUIREMENTS RADIANT HEAT
CONDITIONING / ACCLIMATION GETTING STARTED
INSTALLING PLANKS CUTTING AROUND PIPES
INSTALLATION ON STAIRS FINISHING THE INSTALLATION FLOOR CARE
CONTACT INFORMATION

PRECAUSIONS, STORAGE & HANDLING, ROOM PREPARATION

DREAMHOME Laminate Flooring must be stored flat, horizontally and stacked no more than four cartons high at all times.
Improper storage can result in warping and difficult assembly. Protect carton corners from damage.
Storage area and Job site should be climate-controlled with ideal temperatures of 65°F-75°F, humidity under 75%
Do not store directly on cement, allow for air circulation. Protect from rain, moisture.
Laminates with pre-attached padding do not need additional underlayment. If building associations require extra sound
isolation, the use of heavier type underlayments such as cork, Quiet Walk or Insulayment is recommended to support the locking
system.
For rooms larger than 27’in any direction the use of center T-moldings is required to allow for the normal movement or
seasonal expansion of the entire installed floor.
Install under moldings and doorway transition moldings. New molding must be of sufficient size to cover the expansion area
around the perimeter of the floor.
Leave at least ½” between the surface of the flooring and the bottom of electric baseboard heaters to allow heat to circulate.
Do not fit this floor tight against any fixed, vertical objects (ex. walls, pipes, passageways, staircases). A minimum of ¼” to ½”
expansion space is required around the perimeter of the room as well as any fixed objects. Provide ½” expansion for ½” thick
flooring. All floating floors require fixed cabinets to be installed first before installing planks.
Undercut door moldings and casings to allow the flooring to fit underneath without restriction. Use a scrap piece of laminate and
foam underlayment as a spacer guide.
After installation, it may be necessary to trim the bottom of doors to allow for new floor height.
A moisture barrier, 6mm-8mm polyethylene sheet plastic must be installed completely over tiles, kitchen vinyl or concrete prior
to installation. Overlap the plastic 6 inches and tape the entire length of the seam with duct tape.
For best shade appearance install planks from several boxes. Keep an extra box of materials for repairs
Clean cuts are achieved using a thin kerf, carbide tipped saw blade. Blade cut rotation should cut into the décor or finished side
of the plank.

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

Undercut Saw, Table Saw, Miter Saw, Circular Saw, Jig Saw, 1/4" or 1/2” Spacers, hammer, tapping block, tape Measure, T-square
PVA laminate glue as needed, tape, safety glasses, broom/vacuum, underlayment, 6mm-8mm Polyethylene sheet plastic as a
moisture barrier over concrete (Do not use plastic over bare wood subfloors)
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DREAMHOME Laminate Flooring can be installed in every level of the home

SUBFLOOR REQUIREMENTS
All substrates must be structurally sound and free from movement or deflection.
The substrate must be clean, dry, flat and free of any defects.
To support the locking system, the subfloor must be flat within 3/16” in 10 ft.
Smooth and level all irregularities with a hydraulic (Portland) cement base leveling compound.
Not recommended for use in high humidity areas over 75% where the floor is usually wet. (full bathrooms, steam rooms,
saunas)

Concrete
Concrete subfloors shall be properly cured and allowed to dry for at minimum of 90 days before installation.
Moisture vapor transmission shall not exceed 3 lbs./ 1000 sq.ft./24 hours per ASTM F 1869 Calcium Chloride Test or when
tested according to ASTM F 2170, the internal relative humidity of the concrete shall not exceed 75%.
A Moisture barrier (6mm or 8mm sheet plastic) must be used over all cement surfaces.

Wood
Suspended wood subfloors shall have a minimum 18” of well-ventilated air space clearance above the ground.
Do not apply sheet plastic over bare wood floors allowing wood floors to breathe.
A moisture vapor retarder shall be installed over the crawl space with overlapped widths and lengths.
Moisture content of wood subfloor shall not exceed 12%. Test with meter.
Wood subfloors must be constructed according to local building codes, be structurally sound and deflection free.
Repair any squeaky floor prior to installation.
Sand or plane high spots.
Fill all low spots with Portland cement based patching compound.

Existing Sheet and Tile Flooring

Existing flooring must be fully adhered and in good condition.
Existing floating floor must be removed.
Existing floor must be a single layer.
Repair any damaged areas.
Existing sheet vinyl, VCT, LVT, ceramic tile, and terrazzo installed will require a moisture barrier (6mm or 8mm sheet plastic) and
must met flatness requirements.
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Carpeting
Carpeting and padding must be removed before laying laminate flooring.

RADIANT HEAT
DREAMHOME Laminate Flooring is suitable for installation over radiant heating systems provided that the heating element is not
in direct contact with the Laminate.
New hydronic systems should be running two weeks before installation to remove residual moisture.
Use a moisture barrier.
Lower temperature of heating system prior to installation.
Gradually increase temperature in increments of 10° per hour to avoid “shock” to Laminate flooring.
Surface temperature should not exceed or sustain 85°F

CONDITIONING / ACCLIMATION
Place the unopened cartons of laminate lying horizontally in the room in which they will be installed for a minimum of 48 hours to
acclimate before installation.
For best performance, maintain room temperature of 55°F- 95°F. Ideally 65°F-75°F, humidity under 75%

GETTING STARTED
1. Inspect all planks for visible defects and damage before and during installation. Do not install damaged planks. During
installation, inspect the groove area for any debris that may prevent proper assembly of planks.
DREAMHOME Laminate Flooring will not accept responsibility for claims on flooring installed with obvious defects.
2. Determine in which direction the planks will be installed. To make the room appear larger or if installing in very small rooms or
hallways, it is preferable to lay the planks parallel to the longest room dimension.
3. End-joint “shadow” can be minimized, avoid running board direction into the primary light source.
4. Carefully measure the room to determine squareness and the width of the first and last row of planks. If the width of the last
row of planks is less than 2” excluding the tongue, adjust the width of first plank row accordingly.

3. 4.

WHEN INSTALLING PLANKS

1. The tongue side of the plank should face the starting wall. To get the laminate row closer to the wall you may remove the tongue
from the starting row of planks only. Begin laying planks on the left side corner of the starting wall and work to the right side.
When cutting planks, make sure the teeth of the power saw blade is cutting into the decorative surface. Best results are achieved
when using a thin carbide tipped cutting blade.
2. Example of incorrect board placement

1. 2.
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3. Example of board placement sequence during Layout. Note how board #6 is installed with a slight gap (1/8”-3/16”) in-between
#6 and #5 board. The gap is then gradually closed as board #6 is lightly tapped with a (tapping block) against board#5. Do not
over-tap.

4. Adding additional spacers to the (beginning and ending rows) will help hold installed planks together during installation. Remove
spacers when finished.

5. If the starting or ending wall is irregular, scribe or trace the contour of the wall to the row of boards.

STARTING THE FIRST ROW

1. Start by placing/tapping spacers against the wall at the short and long side of each plank and at a seam where two planks
join. Double this spacing for larger room areas over 20’ in any direction.
2. Complete the first row progressively locking the shorter ends of the planks

1. 2.
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2. The last plank in any row will need to be cut. Measure the distance between the wall and the surface of the last full
plank, make sure to allow for the spacer. If this measurement is less than 12”, the length of first plank in the row should
be adjusted. This will allow for a longer plank at the end of the row. The first and last plank in each row should be at
least 12” in length. Boards used under the recommended 12” should also be edge-glued
3. Fill-in planks can be cut with a jig saw, power saw, or hand saw. TIP: Clean cuts are achieved using a thin kerf, carbide
tipped saw blade. Blade cut rotation should cut into the décor or finished side of the plank.

2. 3.

4. Ideally, the remaining pieces cut off from planks may serve as the starter or first plank in the next row.
5. Stagger new end-joints from previously installed rows a minimum of 6”-12” to avoid seam line-up

4. 5.

6. The last board of each row, under cabinets or other difficult areas can be tapped-in using a tapping bar.
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7. SECOND AND CONSECUTIVE ROWS

a. Position the first plank of the second row with the short end-side against a wall spacer. Next engage the long tongue
side into the groove planks of the first row at approximately a 45º angle until planks fit together.
b. Gradually lower the plank down flat until the joint closes, locks or clicks

a b

8. PROGRESSIVELY INSTALLING INDIVIDUAL BOARDS

(a) Place another board, following the above directions Insert the long tongue side into the groove side at approximately a 45º
angle until planks lock together.
(b) Gradually lower the plank down flat until the joint clicks/closes.
(c) Using a tapping block, gently tap to close any gaps between boards - repeat procedure until completed Note how board
#6 is installed with a slight gap (1/8”-3/16”) in-between #6 and #5 board. The gap is then gradually closed as board #6 is
lightly tapped with a (tapping block) against board#5. Do not over-tap, repeat process until finished.

(c).

9. Last rows. Measure and cut to sufficient width to allow for the recommended expansion gap. Use a table saw to rip
planks to the appropriate width. Planks less that 3” would also need to be glued at the edges
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12 For rooms wider or longer than 27’, the use of DREAM HOME T-Molding is required to account for the normal movement of the
floor. When possible, T-Moldings should be utilized in areas such as doorways, archways, etc.

13. In areas where it is difficult to angle the planks up into position, such as around/under door moldings or jams, kitchen
cabinetry or older type heat registers, it is necessary to remove the lip or locking system from the groove edge of the planks
you are fitting to. This is done by lightly scraping or planning off the lip only on the groove side of the plank. This will allow you
to install the plank laying it flat. After the lip has been trimmed on the planks you are fitting to, lay the plank flat on the floor.
Apply a thin bead of PVA laminate glue on top of the tongue and push the planks into position. Immediately wipe off any excess
glue with a damp cloth.

Removing the Lip or locking system

CUTTING AROUND PIPES

1. Measure the distance from the wall to the center of the pipe.
Mark the plank where the hole for the pipe will be drilled. Remember to allow for the ¼” spacer. Small parts should be fitted
together using PVA laminate glue

2.Measure the diameter of the pipe. Drill the hole in the plank ¼” larger than the diameter of the pipe.
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3. If the hole for the pipe is located in the center of the plank, make a cut perpendicular to the long side of the plank. The cut
should be made going directly through the hole.

4. If the hole for the pipe is located near the edge of the plank, make two 45º angle cuts to the hole from the side of the plank
closest to the hole.
5. You can now position the two pieces around the pipe. Apply a bead of PVA laminate glue to the cut edge of the fill piece and
press into place. Immediately wipe off any excess glue from the surface with a damp cloth. Use a wedge and hold in place
until glue dries.
6. The expansion space around the perimeter of the pipe shall be completely filled with a silicone caulking.

INSTALLATION ON STAIRS
1. DREAM HOME Laminate Flooring may be installed on stairs and risers by fully adhering the planks using 100% urethane
adhesive. Do not use any underlayment when installing on stairs. Also remove padding if pre-attached to the laminate
2. Stairs and risers must be structurally sound. The existing stair nosing must have a square edge flush with the riser. If the
nosing is rounded or exceeds the riser, cut it flush with the riser.
3. If carpeting was installed on the steps, make sure all staples are removed. Sweep and/or vacuum to remove all dirt and
debris.
4. Starting at the bottom riser, measure and cut a plank to fit the riser. The plank for each riser shall be cut flush with the top of
the existing stair tread. Using a good quality 100% urethane adhesive, apply a serpentine bead to the back of the planks.
Press plank firmly into place.
5. Measure and cut a plank and stair nosing to fit the stair tread.
Dry fit each piece to make sure they fit properly.
6. Apply 100% urethane adhesive to backside the stair treads, stair nosing and spread evenly with a 1/16” x 1/16” x 1/16”
notched trowel. Position plank and stair nosing and press firmly into place.

7. For added safety laminate stair nosing should be nailed and glued. Pre-drill holes and fasten with finishing nails. Set nails so
they are just below the surface of the. Fill holes using matching Putty.

8. Repeat procedure for remaining steps. Allow adhesive to cure for 24 hours before using steps.

FINISHING THE INSTALLATION / FLOOR CARE

Remove spacers from perimeter of room.
Install transition moldings. Do not fasten transitions through the laminate flooring.
Install quarter round or baseboard molding. Molding must be sufficient size to cover the ¼” or ½” expansion space. Do not
fasten moldings through the laminate flooring. Fasten into the wall.
Use plywood when moving furniture or appliances into position to protect the flooring.
Use coasters or proper floor protectors under the legs of furniture.
DREAM HOME Laminate Flooring can be maintained by using a dry swiffer mop or cleaned with laminate floor cleaners. Do not
flood mop floor. Do not use abrasive cleaners.
Chipping edges, dents and Scratches are site related, not warrantable.

QUESTIONS?
LUMBER LIQUIDATORS (LLI) CUSTOMER CARE 1-800-HARDWOOD OR (800- 366-4204)