2020-12-01 Australian Gourmet Traveller PDF

3 DAYS, 19 HOURS,
14 MINUTES
That is how long it took for Howard Hughes
to circumnavigate the world and become
the fastest man in the air in 1938.
He trusted his Longines astronavigation
chronometer to determine the position
of his airplane at night or over the ocean.
Howard Hughes
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Food
88 FESTIVE FEASTS
’Tis the season to spend time
with loved ones with this
show-stopping festive table.
Yuzu-and-ginger cured salmon
D
with wasabi leaves, pickles
and crème fraîche ..............90
Whole glazed ham
with roasted figs .................93
Seafood platter with
a trio of sauces....................94
Roast duck with peaches......94
Salted ricotta tart with zucchini
108 FLAVOUR FORWARD
Duncan Welgemoed shares bold
recipes inspired by his South
and black garlic...................97 African heritage in Africola.
Cos hearts and green
98
A SWEET SURPRISE goddess dressing............... 111
Pastry chef Jaclyn Koludrovic Oyster cream and
makes Christmas a treat with potato chips ......................... 111
these dietary-friendly desserts. Raw fish...................................... 111
Parsnips and buttermilk........ 112
Raspberry, vanilla and chocolate The world’s greatest roast
lamingtons ..........................100 potatoes for total idiots.... 112
Lemon verbena, white chocolate Smashed cucumber salad
and fig tart ........................... 101 with toasted chilli oil ......... 113
Fruit mince crostata.............. 104
Macadamia parfait with
pineapple, ginger
and finger lime .................. 104
Pistachio, lime and coconut
114 SEASON’S GREETINGS
Chef Danielle Alvarez celebrates
fresh, seasonal produce in her
cream cake with melon, new book Always Add Lemon.
apple and mint................... 105
Almond milk jelly with Fig and goat’s curd salad
prosecco-poached peach with smoky paprika
and almond crumb ........... 106 vinaigrette.............................117
Citrus with Meyer lemon
PHOTOGRAPHY JAMES MOFFATT.
dressing and
shaved fennel......................117
Pork, duck and
The pistachio terrine ................. 118
Christmas Radish with preserved lemon,
issue feta, mint and sesame...... 118
Zucchini with mint, lemon
and bottarga ...................... 120
Features
56 A ROCK AND A HARD PLACE
There’s no better time to serve
up a celebratory platter of plump,
DECEMBER 2020 fresh oysters, writes Alecia Wood.
60
ON THE COVER GIFT GUIDE
Seafood platter (p88)
GT’s guide to the perfect gifts for the cook, the
entertainer, and the beauty queen in your life.
Photography Ben Dearnley
65
Styling Vivien Walsh
YEAR IN REVIEW
A roundup of GT’s most popular stories; the best
SUBSCRIBE books of the year; and our most memorable meals.
magshop.com.au/GMT
72
Details p54
THE SPIRIT OF CHRISTMAS
Jordan Kretchmer speaks to four people who
have always done Christmas a little differently.
Regulars 77 SUMMER DRINKING GUIDE

From crisp whites to juicy reds, these wines are made
to pair with long summer days, writes Samantha Payne.
13 UPFRONT Editor’s letter, contributors and news.
28 MEMORIES Lady Anne Glenconner.
31
Travel
FIVE OF A KIND Crackers.
32 COMMUNITY X KYLIE Corey Tutt.
35 FAST Simple, everyday meals.
124 THE ART OF TRAVEL Collecting traditions.
134
140
A CHEF’S GUIDE Thi Le on Melbourne.
CHECKING IN Oval Hotel, North Adelaide. 126 TREASURE ISLANDS
Overseas travel just got local and jet lag-free,
writes Alice Hansen, as she explores Tasmania’s
146 OBJECTS OF DESIRE Pitchers. picturesque offshore isles.
PHOTOGRAPHY ADAM GIBSON.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF COUNTRY
Gourmet Traveller acknowledges the Gadigal people of the
Eora Nation as the traditional custodians of the place we
now call Sydney, where this magazine is published. Gourmet
Traveller also pays respects to Elders past and present.
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Contributors
Raspberry, vanilla
and chocolate
lamingtons
p 100
JACLYN KOLUDROVIC CYNTHIA ADEY SIMON BAJADA ALICE HANSEN

pastry chef food editor photographer and stylist writer
A sweet surprise, p98 Festive feasts, p88 Flavour forward, p108 Treasure islands, p126
Inspired by her career After training as a chef Australian-born, Stockholm- Hobart-based travel writer
(working at Icebergs Dining and working in fine-dining based photographer Simon Alice Hansen’s love for the
Room, and now LA’s S.O.L) restaurants, Cynthia Adey Bajada loves surfing and Australian island state runs
PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY (KOLUDROVIC),
and her children (both have found her way into food his family. He also has a seven generations deep.
specific dietaries), Jaclyn media via the Australian background in food styling, When she’s not tending
Koludrovic has crafted Women’s Weekly test kitchen. and used all of his skills to words, she’s exploring
a selection of inclusive For this issue of GT, she to help bring chef Duncan wilderness trails, sailing
Christmas desserts. “I find curated the recipes for our Welgemoed’s first cookbook, (waywardly) and searching
it so satisfying when I can showstopping festive feast. Africola to life. “I relished for new coffee haunts. In this
work gluten and dairy-free “Working on this feature the opportunity to savour issue, she explores Bruny,
recipes into my professional made me realise, we all his food and spend time with King and Flinders Island.
baking,” she says. “Even want to pull out all the stops the fun Africola team when “These wild isles have left
more so when it turns out to make it a Christmas to making the book, while I was me writing new love letters
so well, regular punters don’t remember, and that starts with back visiting my hometown to Tasmania, starting with
even notice the difference.” fabulous food,” says Adey. of Adelaide,” says Bajada. this story,” says Hansen.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 13
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Details p54
We will still be surrounded by fun

and laughter – and, in my case, plenty
of sparkling shiraz. If this year has
taught me anything it’s that you have
to find the joy where you can. And
rather than pine for what could or
should have been, try to accept things
for what they are.
For this issue, we spoke to four
people who are experts in Christmas
done differently. But while none of
their celebrations look the same, each
shares a common theme; the power
T
of food to bring people together and
Team GT wishes his Christmas will be a little different make them feel included.
you all a very
Merry Christmas for most of us. As I write this, I am still This year, we have focused on festive recipes
holding out the smallest of hopes that that welcome everyone to the table, including
borders might reopen and I will get to a special dietary-friendly dessert feature by pastry
go home and see my family in Auckland. Our art chef Jaclyn Koludrovic.
director Laura has resigned herself to the fact she So pull up a chair, pop open a bottle and join us
won’t be basking in the Perth sunshine this year, as we say goodbye – and good riddance – to 2020.
sipping prosecco on the beach with her friends,
family and beloved pooch Charlie.
Despite this, we know we are lucky. We have
friends who will welcome us at their tables.
R ME
OU
G
WHAT GT LOVES THIS MONTH E’

VE BEEN
ED
A
ERE W
P
PROV
WH
Caffeine fix Festive fizz

Treat yourself to a professional There’s no need for gift wrap with
barista experience at home, Champagne Pommery’s colourful
any day of the week, with new release. The 2020 World
DeLonghi’s newest release Collection features three bespoke
La Specialista Maestro. designs inspired by traditional
African wax prints.
harveynorman.com.au
vrankenpommery.com
HOME
PHOTOGRAPHY ESTEBAN LATESSA (MAIN).
I The Old Clare Hotel

A night’s staycation at this
NS
P I R ATI
Gourmet gifting Chippendale hotel proved

Stuck for gift ideas? Support the perfect urban escape
N
O the hospitality industry and spoil and a welcome recharge
your loved ones with a meal in the run-up to Christmas.
at one of Australia’s best Add dinner at Automata
restaurants with the GT gift card. for maximum indulgence.
gourmettravellergiftcard.com.au JOANNA HUNKIN, EDITOR
EMAIL ASKGOURMET@AREMEDIA.COM.AU // FOLLOW @ GOURM

METTRAVELLER
ETTRAVELLER // ONLINE GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU
There’s a side of Japan
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Far from what you’d expect.
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Start discovering at www.japan.travel/en/au
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NEWS
DECEMBER
Edited by JORDAN KRETCHMER
Shelly Beach,
Manly, NSW
p 23
SUMMER LOVIN’
Feel-good gifts, Christmas hams, restaurants to visit this
PHOTOGRAPHY REMY GEREGA.
summer, Raes takes to the sea, and hot hotel stays.

T H E L AT E ST F R O M C H E F S A N D R E STAU R A N TS A R O U N D AU ST R A L I A
R E S TA U R A N T N E W S
PHOTOGRAPHY PETE DILLON (LONGRAIN), LAJOS VARGA (PEP’S) & STEVEN WOODBURN (ESTEBAN).
MELBOURNE
It’s time for a hot summer in the city,
with outdoor dining the new normal for
Melburnians. Longrain will reopen after
an eight-month hiatus, with outdoor
seats lining Little Bourke street.
Chef-restaurateur Scott Pickett will
join forces with long-time head chef
Arté Assavakavinvong to refresh the
classic menu, which will still include
signature dishes like betel leaf with
Clockwise from above: Taco al seared scallops, and caramelised
pastor, adobo-marinated pork pork hock. Johnny’s Green Room
with white onion and salsa verde in Carlton will come into its own as
at Esteban; Pep’s Wine Bar; a rooftop sit-down restaurant over
spanner crab lon with green
chilli, sea blite and finger lime summer, slinging Sgroppino, charcoal-
at Longrain; cocktail hour at grilled lamb arrosticini and pizzas,
Johnny’s Green Room. against a backdrop of the city skyline.
News
WRAP STARS
When natural winemaker Jordy Kay and architectural designer
Julia Kay noticed the masses of single-use plastic being disposed
of in their respective industries, they embarked on finding a
solution together. “In Australia we go through 150,000 tonnes of
cling wrap every year. You see a lot of construction waste coming
off the building sites, then pallets of wine wrapped in single-use
plastic,” says Julia. “We decided it was time to try and have a go
at solving the problem.” The husband-and-wife duo embarked on
a year-long journey of research and testing, to eventually develop
Great Wrap. The end product is a home-compostable cling wrap,
made from a biopolymer, or resin, derived from food waste,
potato, cassava, sugar cane, cornstarch and some oil. “It was
about finding something that produces the best product, but also
doesn’t have a big footprint,” says Jordy. This process also led
WESTERN AUSTRALIA them to learn more about the differences between biodegradable
Charlie and Natarsha Galbally (pictured and compostable products. Biodegradable cling wrap is usually
above) are behind Pep’s, a wine bar in made from regular plastic with the addition of an organic additive.
Peppermint Grove, the first of its kind in This means it breaks down quicker than plastic, but also breaks
the suburb. “Pep’s is an 11-year dream down into microplastics, which then remain in our ecosystem.
of ours, realised,” says Charlie. With “The more people that know biodegradable equals microplastics,
experience working in and owning cafés the better,” says Julia. Great Wrap is home compostable, meaning
in Perth, the pair will now switch to wine it can be popped in a garden compost bin, where it breaks down
and charcuterie-mode. The refreshed in around 180 days, without leaving behind any toxins. Both Jordy
space, which was once home to a bank, and Julia want to pass on their learnings to consumers, while also
a music shop and even a wine bar in the providing a good-quality wrap for everyday use. “It’s so easy to
1950s, is decorated with WA-mined green get sucked in. It happened to us, before we started this journey,”
marble tables and bare-brick walls. says Julia. “If we can be a tool, and help communicate these
messages, it’s a pretty cool position to be in.” greatwrap.co
SYDNEY
Sydneysiders love a waterfront diner
and good pizza, and The Amalfi Way
is set to combine the two. Located on
Woolloomooloo’s Cowper Wharf, the
pizza- and Spritz-focused restaurant is
headed up by chef Luigi Esposito, who
also started the much-loved pizzeria
Via Napoli. Meanwhile, Esteban will
bring tacos, tequila and mezcal to the
old Grasshopper site on Temperance
Lane in the CBD. The split-level laneway
bar and restaurant comes from the team
behind Paddington’s Tequila Mockingbird.
You’ll find parrilla-grilled meats downstairs,
and taco tasting plates in the bar and al
fresco area upstairs (which are available
after midnight). North of the bridge, the
Harbord Hotel in Freshwater has received
a makeover, with local chef Adam Rust
(ex-12 Micron) at the helm of its new
coastal-inspired restaurant, Balsa.
S WIT
TE H
O
TRIP N
HAMISH BLAKE &

ZOË FOSTER BLAKE
What’s your favourite holiday activity?
Hamish: I love bike riding, and Australia has world-class spots to
ride in the mountains, but I can’t resist the beach. Which is strange
because I can’t surf (but love snowboarding) and am a pale kid
from the suburbs who’s not naturally a beachgoer.
Where are you most excited to take your kids to?

Zoë: We’ve never taken the kids to Queensland and showed them
the glory of the reef, which is something I can’t wait to do. We love
Daylesford in Victoria, the Southern Highlands and the greater
Blue Mountains in New South Wales, and of course Byron Bay
and surrounds up north. It’s always tricky finding a happy medium
between visiting the same places you know and love, and trying
somewhere new and exotic to flex those exploration muscles.
Hamish: I went to Uluru with my dad for his 60th birthday. It was
incredibly moving being there and learning from the traditional
owners about their connection to country. I can’t wait to go there
with my kids and not just to Uluru, but all over Australia.
Do you have any recommendations for the best places to eat?

Hamish: Of course all the capital cities have their big hitters in
the food game, and Melbourne, in particular, I would always rank
highest. But outside of that, Tassie is pretty spectacular in lots
of little places purely for the freshness and quality of the food
available. That’s where we are just so lucky in Australia. If the
world is a supermarket, we’re the boutique organic section!
Endangered White’s seahorses
Where is the most interesting place you’ve visited in Australia?
Zoë: When I was about 15, we went to Darwin for my brother’s are now shacking up at what
wedding. The next day, when everyone was feeling a bit tender, Sea Life Sydney Aquarium has
we went to a waterhole, where the groom speared a barramundi dubbed “seahorse hotels”.
in the water while standing out over the water on a branch. He
then barbecued it and we ate it then and there, while quietly
The conservation and habitat
freaking out about crocs. It was magic. I want to do more of that. restoration program is located
Have you had any travel disasters? in Clifton Gardens, with baby
Hamish: The first thing that popped into my head was a pub in seahorses taking up residence in
the Northern Territory that had some pet emus out the back and man-made structures, bolstering
I sculled a pint of warm raw emu egg in an attempt to show the
publican I could do it without getting sick, to impress him. It didn’t
the numbers of the unique
really impress him at all, and I still got sick, so it was a lose, lose! seahorses and helping preserve
their future in Sydney oceans.
Hamish Blake and Zoë Foster Blake are ambassadors for Tourism
Australia. australia.com/holidayhere
20 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
News
Buon Natale
Sonoma’s baking finesse and Icebergs Dining Room and Bar’s Italian
know-how have come together to produce this deliciously sweet and
light Christmas treat. The panettone is flavoured with native ingredients,
including lemon myrtle, Davidson’s plum and green ants, in collaboration
with Daniel Motlop of Something Wild. idrb.com
THE SOCIAL GOOD

Social enterprise Two Good Co
has collaborated with Maison
Balzac to create A Good Night’s
Sleep gift pack. For every gift
pack purchased, one is given to
a woman in a refuge or shelter.
Packs include an 18-hour burn
candle, silk eye mask, lavandin
oil-scented water and a mulberry
silk pillow case. twogood.com.au
PHOTOGRAPHY JAMES MOFFATT (RAES) & NIKKI TO (TWO GOOD CO).
RAESS SETS SAIL

Byron Bay’s hottest restaurant and hotel is taking to the
ocean, with the launch of Sea Raes. After transporting
a luxury super yacht from Mallorca to Sydney, the Raes
team will bring the experience of both the restaurant
and the hotel to Sydney’s harbour. Expect sublime
seafood, killer views, luxe furnishings and impeccably
curated interiors, all on a boat. raes.com.au
Zero tolerance
Killjoy Drinks, a new online alcohol-free bottle shop, is putting
the joy back into booze-free options. Reflecting the trend towards
low- to no-alcohol beverages beyond sad soft drinks, Killjoy stocks
the likes of Non (wine-like artisanal tisanes), PS Soda (with flavours
including honey, grapefruit and gentian, wattle cola and smoked
lemonade) and Brunswick Aces (a Victorian distillery that has
debuted non-alcoholic spirits in its core range). With silly season
in full swing, this is your destination for drinks with a difference
(and no hangover). killjoydrinks.com
O N T H E PA S S with ZOE BIRCH, GREASY ZOE’S
What did you miss most about the restaurant while you
were closed? Definitely the customer interaction. Because
we’re so tiny, we meet everybody that walks through the door.
There’s definitely a ‘stage’ element to the service, it’s like
performing a show. I missed that adrenaline before service.
You were already a very small restaurant. What does it look

like now? We were 10 seats before and we’re now just six.
I think with restaurants that are small, they tend to have a bit
more soul because you’re really at the coalface.
What did you do with your spare time during Melbourne’s

lockdown? I experimented with a lot of different cheeses.
I’ve always done soft cheese, so it was a great chance to
work on blue and hard cheeses. It requires so much time
and concentration, so it was nice to have some extra time
to really focus on that. We’ve also got a bunch of vinegars
on the go, plus kefir and lots of miso.
What’s something you’ve learned from this year? We’ve

been pretty blown away by how many local people in this
community have just really wanted to help, and people’s
generosity. That’s been a big life lesson.
You’re technically in Melbourne metro, but also a bit out of

town. What makes Hurstbridge worth visiting? It’s literally
PHOTOGRAPHY MEREDITH O’SHEA (ZOE BIRCH).
about getting out of a concrete city and coming into the bush.
It’s just a completely different experience to Melbourne.
Shop 3/850 Heidelberg-Kinglake Rd, Hurstbridge, Vic.

greasyzoes.com.au
Car aficionados will be impressed by the sleek new Mercedes E-Class range. It includes
the practical and refined sedan, the chic cabriolet and a sporty coupé, with each
vehicle offering both modernity and luxury. mercedes-benz.com.au
News
DEEP DIVE
Sydney is a water-obsessed city, so it’s no surprise that the
second incarnation of Places We Swim is focused on the
harbour- and ocean-loving Emerald City. Written by former
Broadsheet editor Caroline Clements and her husband and
photographer Dillon Seitchik-Reardon, the book captures the
liberating feeling of that first spring dive through to the hazy
after-work mid-summer dip, all while providing comprehensive
guides to the areas surrounding each swimming spot. The
book is divided into northern beaches, north shore, west, city
and inner harbour and eastern beaches, with a run-down of
facilities, nearby cafés and restaurants and walking tracks.
“The variety and density of swims in Sydney is something that
continues to amaze us,” says Clements. “There are iconic
beaches that gather the masses, yet just around the corner
you’ll find a quiet refuge.” Its pages are packed with ocean
pools carved into Sydney’s rock edges through to freshwater
finds in the Blue Mountains. Each well-researched area guide
also has its own local guide, with enthusiastic highlights from
residents. “Each new place is an excuse to venture deep into
a neighbourhood,” says Clements. Places We Swim Sydney
(Hardie Grant, $39.95).
THREE OF A KIND CHRISTMAS HAMS 1

2
PHOTOGRAPHY DILLON SEITCHIK-REARDON (PLACES WE SWIM SYDNEY).
1
Feather and Bone
Provenance is paramount for this Marrickville butchery, with each ham
coming from heritage-breed pigs, sourced directly from a small number
of regeneratively managed farms across NSW. These are delicately smoked
by Pinos Dolce Vita. Skin scoring and glazing (with Wildflower Brewing’s wild
ale and Malfroy’s Gold honey) is also available. featherandbone.com.au
2
Nicholson and Saville
This Sydney restaurant supplier has recently gone consumer-facing, and
its carefully sourced hams are the perfect example of the quality it delivers.
Sourced from Gooralie, a single-site farm in Queensland’s Darling Downs, the
wood-smoked hams deliver on flavour and texture. nicholsonsaville.com.au
3 3
Otway Pork
This Australian-owned pork producer has been curing hams for more than 20
years, sourcing meat from seven different farms in Victoria. The refined brine
recipe and hormone-free meat makes this cured pork a winner. otwaypork.com.au
News
T H E L AT E ST B O U T I Q U E A N D LU X U RY H OT E L S
HOTEL NEWS
AUSTRALIA with each hotel creating locally curated

Following Covid-related delays, packages. You can enjoy Tesla transfers,
PHOTOGRAPHY RHIANNON TAYLOR (LANCEMORE CROSSLEY ST).

Lancemore Crossley St is set to open on in-room massages, dining experiences,
December 1 in Melbourne’s theatre district. boat tours and picnics, all by booking
The 113-room boutique hotel has been directly through the Ovolo website.
overseen by award-winning architecture
firm Carr, and includes a rooftop terrace. INTERNATIONAL
In NSW, Bannisters Port Stephens The Tokyo Edition, Toranomon has opened
has opened its own pop-up poolside in Tokyo’s Toranomon Hills. Designed in
Mexican bar and eatery, called Julio’s. partnership with renowned Japanese
Here you’ll find head chef Mitch Turner architect Kengo Kuma (the designer of the
focusing on seafood from the region, Olympic Stadium in Tokyo) this hotel is one
with the menu including raw tuna to add to the bucket list for design and
tostadas with adobo sauce and green architecture fans. The Edition brand was Clockwise from top left:
onion, and market fish with greens created by entrepreneur and hotelier Ian poolside at Bannisters Port
Stephens; The Tokyo Edition
wrapped in banana leaf with coriander. Schrager, who has worked on many unique Toranomon’s rooftop terrace;
Across Australia, Ovolo Hotels are hotels, with his career beginning in 1977 Lancemore Crossley St in
encouraging staycations this summer, when he co-founded the iconic Studio 54. Melbourne.
© Happo-en
Now is a time for inspiration

Tokyo is waiting for you! gotokyo.org/en/
tokyotokyo.jp
Current information on COVID-19 in Tokyo:
metro.tokyo.lg.jp/english/
Event
Clockwise from far left:

Nomad’s dining room;
PorkStar’s Mitch Edwards
with chef Emma McCaskill;
smoked zucchini, fresh
zucchini, feta, pepitas and
pine nut tarator; Nomad
executive chef Jacqui
Challinor; Paul Baker of
Adelaide’s Chefs on Wheels;
OzHarvest chief executive
Ronni Kahn.
Right: Gourmet
Traveller editor
Joanna Hunkin
with Hope
Delivery’s Neil
Perry. Below:
Quay chef and
Harvest Bites Hospitality Honours
ambassador In November Gourmet Traveller hosted a special lunch to toast
Peter Gilmore.
our Celebration Special at the newly opened Nomad in Surry
Hills. With support from PorkStar, the day marked the return of
events for GT, while celebrating the outstanding efforts of the
industry throughout 2020. Chefs including Jacqui Challinor
(Nomad), Paul Baker (Chefs on Wheels) and Neil Perry (Hope
Delivery) shared their experiences from this year, among a room
of industry peers. The event also marked the announcement of
the return of Gourmet Traveller’s Restaurant Awards in 2021.
PHOTOGRAPHY ESTEBAN LA TESSA.
Left to right:
Kylie Kwong;
Borrowdale
pork cheek with
radicchio and
sweet and sour
currants; Bird
in Hand Arneis.
D WIT
OR
H
QUI K W
LA DY A N N E
C
GL E N C O N N E R
A
Lady-in-waiting to Princess Margaret, and

wife of “king” of Mustique, Colin Tennant, this
best-selling author reflects on a life of travel.
When I first went to Mustique, I thought it was absolutely appalling.

It was covered in jungle and there was no running water. The food
was mostly tinned. Our big treat was catching lobsters, we would
wrap a towel around our hand and pull them out.
Princess Margaret came on her honeymoon in the royal yacht. We were

asked to dinner and I said, “I really don’t think we should, we haven’t had
a bath for three months.” And she sent a message to say that they had
one in the cabin – it was the most wonderful bath I ever had. The people would
invite us up for
We gave her a bit of land as a wedding present, and when her marriage
started to go wrong she said, “Can I come out and see it?” I said, “Ma’am,
a drink. They were
we have no lights. We use buckets out the back for a shower.” But she always amazed when
absolutely loved the island. It gave her so much pleasure. we got up and there
We loved swimming. She was very good. We used to swim together
was Princess
in Norfolk when we were children. We would go on the beach, digging Margaret, soaking
holes and hoping people might fall into them, and we swam in very wet, on their deck.
unattractive black bathing dresses and terrible rubber shoes. Many years
later, Princess Margaret and I would swim for hours, talking, on Mustique.
She swam breaststroke and I would have to do a rather uncomfortable
side-crawl in order to be able to speak to her. Yachts used to come in
and we would swim round the boats and the people on them would
look down and invite us up for a drink. They were always amazed when
we got up and there was Princess Margaret, soaking wet, on their deck.
They couldn’t believe it. Lady Anne Glenconner’s first
novel Murder On Mustique (Hodder
& Stoughton, $32.99) is on sale now,
I still love swimming, but I’m not as strong as I was. I swam in Turkey in as is her memoir Lady In Waiting
August, and I have a very kind friend who asks me out to Mustique every (Hodder & Stoughton, $22.99).
Memories
year. The swimming there is wonderful. One side is a calm at my shoes.” But I told her, actually, I had packed a flat pair.
lagoon and the other is the Atlantic, where the water comes She just looked at me and said, “Okay Anne, you win this
in over the reef. It’s all bubbly, like swimming in Champagne. time.” It was early and all the lifeguards were very pale and
didn’t look their usual handsome selves. I remember she
I really enjoyed writing Murder On Mustique. It’s about said to me: “Rather disappointing.”
a sort of aristocratic Miss Marple and a very dishy
INTERVIEW HANNAH-ROSE YEE. PHOTOGRAPHY HAL SHINNIE.
detective called Solomon Nile who solve crimes together. I lived with Princess Margaret at Kensington Palace for
It’s quite fun. a year, and she ate the same dinner nearly every night. We
would start with prawn cocktail, which she loved, then we’d
For Colin’s 50th birthday party on Mustique, I painted have chicken or fish. Pudding was always a lemon sorbet
my face gold. That was rather a mistake. It can be very inside a real frozen lemon. Princess Margaret always had
hard when Bianca Jagger is there looking simply smashing. breakfast in bed with coffee, sometimes tea, and one piece
I wanted to compete. The trouble was I couldn’t smile, of toast with marmalade. That’s what I have, although I haven’t
because the paint would crack. It made me look awful. got anybody to do it for me now – I make my own breakfast
and bring it up to bed. That’s how I start my day.
The first royal tour I did with Princess Margaret was to
Australia and it was wonderful. Being a lady-in-waiting, She never drank wine. She always liked a gin and tonic
you’re a go-between. Princess Margaret wouldn’t go on before lunch, and then whiskey and water in the evening.
Bondi Beach because of the sand. When we were nearly I drink white wine. And in my old age – especially during
there I said, “Ma’am, they really want you to do it. It’s rather the lockdown, and doing my book working really hard all
like kissing the Blarney Stone.” And she said, “I can’t, look morning – I do like a vodka tonic at lunchtime. ●
A G o ur m e t Tr av e lle r p r o m o t i o n
Crème de
la crème
You know Fromager d’Affinois as the
most decadent cheese on the board.
But have you heard its origin story?
P
lace: Rhône Alpes, a green and
mountainous region in southeast
France. Time: the early ’80s. Passionate
cheese-lover Jean Claude Guilloteau
and his wife retreat to a farmhouse to experiment
with a new approach to cheese, combining the
dairying tradition of their picturesque region with
his desire for disruption. Through an innovative
method, Guilloteau pioneers a luscious and
velvety cheese naturally richer in proteins
and minerals. It sends taste-buds reeling.
Rivals clamour for his secrets; connoisseurs
clamour for the cheese itself. He calls it Pavé
Dauphinois, after the Dauphiné area of its
creation. To accommodate the skyrocketing
demand, he opens a dairy in the preserved terroir
of the Massif du Pilat regional park next to the
Rhône river, and another nestled in the foothills
of the Alps soon after. Guilloteau knows he has
crafted a cheese to captivate all of France, but
what about the rest of the world? With his new
Fromager d’Affinois (pronounced Fro-maj-ay
Daff-eenwah) – a pun on affinage, the process
of cheese-ripening – he vows to find out.
Today, Fromager d’Affinois is enjoyed by
foodies all over the globe. Made in France and
travelling over land and sea halfway around the world and finally
ending up on your plate in Australia, it’s an epic journey — and
when you taste it, you’ll see that it’s been worth every second.
It’s the ultimate special treat on any grazing platter — with all of
it still crafted exclusively in those same two dairies in Rhône Alpes.
This festive season, complement the flagship Fromager d’Affinois
double cream with the decadent Bleu triple cream, the gooey
washed-rind Campagnier and, of course, Fromager d’Affinois
truffles... a new trifecta to impress your friends and spoil your family.
Email hello@fromagerdaffinois.com
for stockists. On Instagram or
Facebook? Follow @fromagerdaffinois
Five of a kind
Crackers
Whether served alongside cheese or hummus, a great cracker is all
about texture and balance. Here are five to add to your next platter.
BAYLIES
Premium pepper berry lavash
The addition of Tasmanian-
sourced pepperberries takes
these sturdy, wheat-based
bites to another level,
delivering a subtle hint of
spice, alongside lingering
notes of cinnamon. Serve with
an oozy baked camembert
to bring something different
to the party.
MILLER’S ELEMENTS $6.99 for 135gm,
Oat-smoked flour and red chilli baylies.com.au
These crumbly squares are worthy
of being dunked in almost any dip.
The combination of stoneground
wholemeal flour and oak-smoked
dark malt flour creates a dense,
earthy flavour, enhanced by flecks THE FINE CHEESE CO.
of salt and piquant red chillies. Toast for cheese – cranberries,
A lick of paté would also pair nicely. raisins and seeds
$9.15 for 100gm, simonjohnson.com These fruit-studded ‘toasts’ offer
TEAM superior crunch, with a generous
GT
handful of pumpkin seeds adding
FA
VOUR
texture. Punctuated with the

bittersweet tang of dried
I
TE
cranberries, and rounded with
floral hints of honey, these crisp
slices are a delicious vessel for
tart, earthy goat’s cheese.
$11.40 for 100gm,
simonjohnson.com
WORDS GEORGIE MEREDITH. PHOTOGRAPHY JAMES MOFFATT.
KANGAROO ISLAND
PRODUCE CO.
Single-origin wheat and FALWASSER
Ligurian honey
Sesame wafer-thin
Not quite a cracker, not quite
crispbreads
a biscuit, these savoury-sweet
Produced in Byron Bay,
morsels are almost biscotti-like
Falwasser’s wafer-thin
in flavour. A rounded, buttery
‘crispbreads’ are a versatile
richness is balanced by soft
bite, ideal for any afternoon
honey characters, with
picnic or pre-dinner spread.
a texture reminiscent of bran.
They sing with a sesame-
Top with a rich and creamy
infused nuttiness and lightly
brie for a perfect pairing.
toasted warmth. A nice,
$8 for 100gm,
neutral companion for
localpantryco.com.au
punchier platter items, such
as taramasalata or anchovies.
$9.15 for 100gm,
simonjohnson.com
Corey Tutt
Kylie Kwong celebrates the individuals helping to grow a stronger
community. This month, we meet Deadly Science founder Corey Tutt.
Despite the upheaval and uncertainty Undeterred, Tutt pursued his dream, heading
this year has brought, I feel very to Western Australia as a 16-year-old to work in
blessed in many ways. I haven’t just a wildlife sanctuary. Over the course of the next
met new people, I’ve formed a deep 10 years, he took on various jobs, eventually
connection with many of them. landing in Sydney, where he worked as an animal
Upon meeting Kamilaroi man and technician and later became a research assistant
Deadly Science founder, Corey Tutt, at the University of Sydney.
I was immediately uplifted by his “I didn’t meet any other Aboriginal people
strong, clear sense of purpose. who were doing what I was doing, working in
His mission and genuine desire is STEM [science, technology, engineering and
mathematics],” he says. “I started going to Redfern
to enhance the lives of young Aboriginal children. When
and talking to the mob there… I was talking to
I think of the future through the lens of this young leader’s
these kids in Redfern – they were highly intelligent
essential, all-inclusive, powerful and compassionate work,
and gifted. But they were being pushed towards
I feel great hope and excitement. art and sport.”
Tutt started meeting with the group every
Friday afternoon to share his stories and introduce
the kids to the world of science – and explain how
they fit into it.
“Aboriginal people are the world’s first
scientists. We were the first chemists, the first
E
physicists and the first astronomers. We have
ducation is freedom and science is hope. 65,000 years of knowledge,” he explains. “I was
WORDS JOANNA HUNKIN (MAIN) & KYLIE KWONG (INTRO). PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER (TUTT) & PENNY LANE (KWONG).
That’s the core philosophy behind Deadly someone working in science and I was able to
Science, an outreach initiative that share a form of science that was accessible. You
provides science books and resources to can’t be what you can’t see but I was allowing
remote schools and communities across Australia. them to see it.”
And the person behind the initiative is Encouraged by the positive response, Tutt
Corey Tutt – a 28-year-old Kamilaroi man, decided to think bigger. He began researching
who was named 2020 NSW Young Australian remote schools and cold calling them to find
of the Year. out how he could help.
“It’s been a one-man band in “We’ve got kids in “I found out that our schools
terms of sending out the books are really under-resourced. They
but it’s one of the biggest teams Australia growing had plenty of footballs but not
in Australia because I’ve got the up who want to be much science. I just wanted
community on my side. I’ve got Deadly Scientists to change it.”
the teachers, I’ve got the schools, So he did. Tutt began by
I’ve got the general public.”
instead of AFL boxing up his own personal
Growing up, Tutt used to footballers.” collection of books and sending
make friends by picking up lizards it to a school that had just 15
and snakes and telling other kids about them. of their own. Then he bought more books and
His childhood dream was to become a zookeeper. sent those. As more schools heard about Tutt’s
“The first book I read was Australian Reptiles in programme, he bought more books, working
Colour by Harold G Cogger. It was given to me by weekends and holidays to pay for them.
my Pop. It was a gift for my birthday when I was Today, Deadly Science has sent more than
8 years old. I loved it. It captured my imagination. 14,000 books and 500 telescopes and chemistry
“I wanted to be the Harry Butler of the sets to schools.
Aboriginal world. But I was told by my teacher that “We’ve got kids in Australia growing up
kids like me don’t go on to those things. The best who want to be Deadly Scientists instead of
I could hope for was a trade,” he recalls. “I wasn’t AFL footballers,” says Tutt. “These are kids
seen as special. I was seen as someone who wasn’t that now have an identity and a purpose.” ●
going to contribute to society.” deadlyscience.icu
Life tastes better with a Liebherr
Your elegant solution for preserving wine & food
Quality, Design and Innovation
home.liebherr.com.au
FAST
DECEMBER
Create simple, flavourful meals in less than

30 minutes with these everyday recipes.
Photography JOHN-PAUL URIZAR Styling STEVE PEARCE

VEGETARIAN GLUTEN FREE DAIRY FREE
Food preparation JESSICA BROOK
EDY .
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SWITCH IT OUT
If sweet potato starch
noodles are unavailable, use
rice or mung bean vermicelli.
Stir-fried sweet potato noodles with tofu

SERVES 4
500 gm sweet potato starch noodles Thai basil leaves, spring onion and Shaoxing wine and stir occasionally
(see note) chopped roasted peanuts, to serve until reduced by half (3-5 minutes).
60 ml (¼ cup) sesame oil Add noodles, and cabbage mushroom
1 tbsp finely grated ginger 1 Cook noodles in a large saucepan mixture to wok, season to taste with
2 garlic cloves, finely grated of boiling water until just tender freshly ground pepper and toss to
600 gm (about ⅓) Chinese cabbage, (2-4 minutes). Drain and set aside. warm through (1-2 minutes).
coarsely chopped 2 Heat 2 tbsp oil in a wok over high 3 Serve noodles topped with Thai
200 gm mixed Asian mushrooms, such as heat and stir-fry ginger, garlic, cabbage basil leaves, spring onion and peanuts.
shiitake, oyster and black fungi, sliced and mushroom until tender (2-3 minutes). Note Sweet potato starch noodles
200 gm medium-firm tofu, sliced Remove from wok and set aside. Heat ( japchae) are available from Asian
125 ml (½ cup) soy sauce (gluten-free remaining oil in wok, add tofu and fry, supermarkets.
if required) turning until golden and crisp at the
60 ml (¼ cup) Shaoxing wine edges (3-4 minutes). Add soy sauce,
Fast
Jerk pork with salsa

SERVES 4
2 tbsp vegetable oil, plus extra for 1 Heat a barbecue to medium-high. Brush pineapple with oil and cook on
brushing Whisk oil, sugar, ginger, soy sauce and barbecue or chargrill until lightly charred
2 tbsp brown sugar spices in a large bowl, add pork and turn and caramelised (3 minutes each side).
2 tbsp finely grated ginger to coat. Place a sheet of baking paper on For jicama salsa, toss ingredients in
2 tbsp soy sauce (gluten-free if required) barbecue flat plate to prevent burning. a bowl and season generously to taste.
1 tsp ground cayenne Cook pork on paper with hood down, Thickly slice pork and serve with grilled
1 tsp ground cinnamon turning occasionally and brushing with pineapple, jicama salsa and coriander. ➤
1 tsp ground allspice spice mixture, until cooked to your liking
1 kg pork loin fillet (8-10 minutes for medium). Alternatively,
½ small ripe pineapple, cut into wedges cook pork in a char-grill pan over medium
1 cup coriander leaves, to serve heat, turning occasionally and brushing
JICAMA SALSA with spice mixture, until cooked to your
1 jicama (about 300gm), peeled and liking (15-18 minutes for medium). Cover
finely diced pork with foil; set aside to rest (5 minutes).
3 spring onions, thinly sliced
Juice of 2 limes, or to taste
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 long red chilli, finely chopped
Sushi bowls SERVES 4
300 gm (1½ cups) short-grain or
medium-grain rice
60 ml (¼ cup) sushi seasoning (see note)
1 tbsp vegetable oil
3 eggs, lightly beaten
200 gm baby cucumbers (qukes), cut
lengthways into wedges
1 large avocado (about 320gm), sliced
½ cup daikon radish sprouts
½ cup mixed sprouts
½ cup shiso leaves
4 sheets nori, toasted and coarsely
chopped
1 tbsp wasabi peas, coarsely chopped
Furikake, soy sauce (gluten-free if
required) and Japanese mayonnaise,
to serve
1 Wash and drain rice until water

runs clear. Bring 560ml (2¼ cups)
water and rice to the boil in a medium
saucepan covered with a tight-fitting lid.
Reduce heat to low and cook covered
(12 minutes). Remove from heat and
stand, covered, to steam (15 minutes).
Tip rice onto a large flat tray, sprinkle
over sushi seasoning and fold into
rice using a spatula.
2 Meanwhile, heat oil in a large frying
pan over medium heat. Add egg and
cook, swirling pan occasionally, until
just set (3 minutes). Turn out onto
a board and cut egg into quarters.
3 Divide rice among serving bowls
and add egg to the side. Top rice with
cucumber, avocado, sprouts, shiso
leaves, nori and wasabi peas. Season
TOP IT OFF
with furikake and soy sauce to taste,
and serve with Japanese mayonnaise. For a twist on this dish,
Note Sushi seasoning, a mix of rice add slices of sashimi, cooked
vinegar, sugar and salt, is available prawns or crumbed chicken.
from select supermarkets.
Fast
Tostadas with paprika prawns

and guacamole SERVES 4 ON THE SIDE
For extra flavour, serve with
boiled or grilled corn cobs
24 (1kg) uncooked prawns, peeled, 1 Stir prawns, paprika and garlic with sprinkled with chilli salt and
deveined, tails in tact salt and freshly ground black pepper a squeeze of lime juice.
2 tsp smoked paprika to taste in a bowl to coat and combine.
1 garlic clove, finely chopped For guacamole, blend avocado,
2 avocados, coarsely chopped coriander roots and lime juice in a small
3 coriander roots, scraped blender until smooth. Season to taste.
Juice of 2 limes, plus extra lime Add extra oil to a frying pan to 1cm
wedges (optional) to serve deep and heat over medium heat. Fry
1½ tbsp olive oil, plus extra for frying tortillas one at a time, turning, until
12 small corn tortillas golden and crisp. Drain tostadas on
100 gm cherry tomatoes, coarsely paper towel. Cook prawns in the same
chopped pan, in batches, until just cooked
½ cup coarsely chopped coriander (2 minutes). Drain on paper towel.
1 small white onion, thinly sliced into Mix tomato and coriander in a small
rounds bowl to combine and season to taste.
1 jalapeño chilli, thinly sliced 5 Spoon guacamole onto tostadas, top
Tabasco to serve with onion, prawns, tomato mixture and
jalapeño, and serve with Tabasco. ➤
EDY .
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Fast
Gochujang-roasted salmon
and sweet potato salad SERVES 4
4 small sweet potatoes, halved 2 Mix gochujang, remaining oil, garlic
lengthways and honey in a small bowl to combine. PRODUCE TIP
50 ml sesame oil Add salmon to tray with sweet potato,
This recipe also works well
65 gm (¼ cup) gochujang (see note) brush salmon with gochujang mix then
with trout or barramundi.
2 garlic cloves, finely grated bake until just cooked (10-15 minutes).
3 tsp honey 3 Toss onion, pickled ginger and pickling
4 salmon fillets (about 180gm each), liquid in a small bowl to combine. Season
skin removed, pin-boned to taste and set aside to pickle (5 minutes).
1 red onion, cut into wedges and thinly 4 Place salad leaves, mint and shiso in
sliced a large serving bowl. Add sweet potato
2 tbsp pickled ginger, plus 60ml and onion (discard pickling mixture), flake
(¼ cup) pickling liquid over salmon and serve with pan juices.
2 cups baby salad leaves Note Gochujang, fermented Korean chilli
1 cup mint leaves paste, is available from Asian grocers.
Baby purple shiso leaves, to serve
1 Preheat oven to 200°C and line

a large baking tray with baking paper.
Brush sweet potato with 1 tbsp oil and
roast, cut side down, until just tender
(10 minutes), then turn.
EDY .
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Carrot and Manchego

fritters with aïoli SERVES 4
2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for
shallow-frying
1 small onion, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, finely grated
3 cups coarsely grated carrot
(about 6 carrots)
100 gm Manchego, coarsely grated
100 gm (⅔ cup) plain flour
2 tbsp coarsely chopped oregano,
plus extra leaves to serve
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon,
plus lemon wedges (optional),
to serve
200 gm cherry tomatoes
Aïoli, to serve
1 Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a saucepan over

medium heat. Add onion and garlic and
sauté until tender (3-4 minutes). Tip into
a large bowl, add carrot, Manchego, flour,
oregano and zest, season to taste and
mix well to combine. Form mixture into
12 rough patties and set aside on a tray.
Heat remaining olive oil in a frying pan
over high heat, add tomatoes and cook,
stirring occasionally, until scorched and
softened slightly (3-4 minutes). Transfer
to a bowl and season to taste.
Wipe pan clean with paper towel and
pour in extra oil to 1cm deep. Heat over
medium-high heat, then add patties in
batches and fry, turning once until golden
brown and cooked through (5-6 minutes).
Drain on paper towel and season to taste.
Gently fry extra oregano leaves in same
pan until crisp (30 seconds).
Serve fritters topped with scorched
tomatoes and fried oregano with aïoli. ➤
TAPAS TIP
For a tapas-style snack
make half-size fritters and
top with a little jamón.
Turmeric chicken skewers with
chilli and coconut sambal SERVES 4
750 gm kipfler potatoes, scrubbed and 1 Boil potatoes in salted water over pour mixture over potato. Toss to
halved lengthways medium-high heat until tender when coat, season to taste and set aside.
50 ml vegetable oil pierced with a skewer (15-20 minutes). 3 Stir remaining turmeric, garlic and oil
3 sprigs fresh curry leaves Drain well and transfer to a bowl. in a bowl to combine. Season to taste,
¾ tsp brown mustard seeds 2 Meanwhile, heat half the oil in a large add chicken and turn to coat. Thread
1 onion, thinly sliced frying pan over medium heat, add curry chicken onto 8 metal skewers. Heat
2 garlic cloves, finely grated leaves and fry until crisp (30 seconds). a char-grill pan over medium-high heat
1½ tsp ground turmeric Remove with a slotted spoon and drain and cook chicken, in batches, until
800 gm chicken thigh fillets, trimmed on paper towel. Add mustard seeds to charred and cooked through (10 minutes).
Juice of 3 limes, or to taste pan and fry until they pop (30 seconds). 4 For chilli and coconut sambal,
CHILLI AND COCONUT SAMBAL Add onion, half the garlic and turmeric combine ingredients with remaining lime
2 tbsp shredded coconut to pan, and fry until onion is soft and juice in a bowl; season to taste. Serve
3 long green chillies, finely chopped golden (8-10 minutes). Remove from skewers with potatoes and sambal,
Zest of 1 lime heat, stir in juice of two limes, then and scattered with curry leaves. ●
HARVEY NORMAN PRESENTS
A few of our
favourite things
Invite friends and family, set the table and prepare for a celebration of the things we have
discovered that matter most this year – good health, family and quality time together.
Find the
recipe at
harveynorman.
com.au/recipes
HN.COM.AU/SMALLAPPLIANCES
online | mobile | in store
drinks on arrival
Set the mood for the day ahead with beautiful cocktails made with native Australian ingredients.
Cucumber & Finger Lime

Gin Frappé and White
Peach Aperol Spritz.
You need The Breville Bluicer

With Breville’s latest versatile Bluicer you’ll
be blending and juicing like a pro in no time.
Completely eliminating the need for separate
blending and juicing equipment, now you can
effortlessly create restaurant-quality cocktails,
juices and smoothies for friends, family and
loved ones this festive season.
BREVILLE THE 3X BLUICER PRO JUICER
BJB815BSS $599.
JOANNA HUNKIN
Editor,
Gourmet Traveller
"Nothing says summer

fun quite like an
ice-cold cocktail.
Give your favourite
recipe a refreshing
frappé makeover by
blending it with freshly
crushed ice – or purée
fresh fruit to add an
instant hit of colour
and flavour. Have fun
as you experiment
- just don’t forget to
refill those ice trays!"
Find the recipe at

harveynorman.com.au/recipes
LUCY KELLY
Food Editor,
AWW FOOD
"When we are
sharing the cooking
for Christmas Day I
always love to tackle
entrée. If you're going
for a traditional ham
or turkey for lunch or
dinner I always find a
seafood appetiser is a
good way to start."
Find the recipe at
a little appetiser
Begin the feast with delicate starters that are deliciously artistic and designed to impress.
Salmon & Avocado Roulade

with Wasabi Cream.
You need the KitchenAid

Cordless Collection
This Christmas, go completely KitchenAid cordless
with the 5 Cup Chopper, Variable Speed Hand
Blender and 7 Speed Hand Mixer and let your
inspired creativity in the kitchen run free.
KITCHENAID CORDLESS VARIABLE SPEED HAND BLENDER IN
EMPIRE RED 5KHBBV83AER $259; KITCHENAID 5 CUP CORDLESS
CHOPPER IN EMPIRE RED 5KFCB519AER $259; KITCHENAID 7 SPEED
CORDLESS HAND MIXER IN EMPIRE RED 5KHMB732AER $259
- ALSO SHOWN IN ALMOND CREAM ON THE COVER 5KHMB732AAC.
the main event
Nothing says 'Christmas' more than an extravagant seafood main with a surprising twist.
Grilled Lobster & Steamed Kipfler

Salad with Furikake Lime Mayo.
You need the Morphy

Richards Multicooker
Whether your festive heart is set on grilling, slow
cooking, steaming or frying this Christmas, now
you can lovingly craft a variety of delicious meals
with just one pot. The convenience of the Morphy
Richards Multicooker means more time for you
to relax with your loved ones.
MORPHY RICHARDS MULTIFUNCTION
COOKING POT IN RED 562010 $229.
FRAN ABDALLAOUI
Food Director,
Australian Women's
Weekly
"When entertaining
at Christmas time
I want convenience
at my fingertips!
The Morphy Richards
Multicooker ticks all
the boxes in one clever
appliance. I can steam
the potatoes and
par-cook the lobster
tails ahead of time
and just before
serving grill the
lobster to caramelised
perfection."
Find the recipe at
KARLIE VERKERK
Deputy Editor,
Gourmet Traveller
"A lavish Christmas

lunch should always
be topped off with a
show-stopping dessert,
and my go-to for any
celebratory occasion
is a classic pavlova.
Topped with luxurious
pillows of whipped
cream and fresh
in-season fruit, it’s
the perfect sweet
treat for a crowd."
Find the recipe at

for our sweet tooth
Clear the table for a spectacular dessert that is sure to be your entertaining crown jewel.
White Chocolate &

Berry Crown Pavlova.
You need the KitchenAid Stand Mixer

The absolute centrepiece of any aspiring baker’s
kitchen, this stunning KitchenAid Artisan Mixer is
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the perfect finish
Stretch lunch out to late afternoon and round things off with coffee and a sweet treat.
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Chocolate Mousse.
You need the Smeg Capsule

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getting a barista-quality cup every time is as
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ALIX DAVIS
Editor,
Family Circle
"Dessert is always the

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Day for me - it means
the hard work is all
done and I can sit
back and relax as
the afternoon turns
into a long summer
evening. This simple
yet indulgent espresso
and chocolate mousse
is the perfect dessert for
summer and Christmas
entertaining as it
can be made ahead,
leaving me time to enjoy
celebrating with friends
and family."
Find the recipe at
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With the festive season upon us,
there’s no better time to serve up
a celebratory platter of plump, fresh
oysters, writes ALECIA WOOD.
W
rom postponed weddings to the pause on

air travel
a and innumerable personal losses,
“Then, Covid-19 happened,” is a statement
that’s become shorthand for
f all manner of
consequences brought on by the coronavirus pandemic.
For oyster farmers on the South Coast of New South
Wales – a major centre for oyster production – it’s meant
yet another blow after an already trying start to the year.
“We
W were recovering from the impact of the bushfires,
looking forward to Easter trading and hopefully a little
bit of tourism, but in March we ended up with Covid-19
coming through and restaurants shutting down,” says
Sue McIntyre, co-owner of Broadwater Oysters, who
farms Sydney Rock oysters an hour’s drive north of the
Victorian border. NSW produces just over half of all
Australian oysters (including Sydney Rock and Pacific
oysters) followed by Tasmania and South Australia,
which produce mostly Pacific oysters and small volumes
of Angasi oysters.
During the last bushfire
f season, NSW South Coast
oyster farmers were left with no tourists to sell to onsite,
closed local restaurants unable to place orders, damage to
infrastructure, and suspended harvests after ash debris
polluted coastal waters. “It meant a total reduction in
A GUIDE TO POPULAR
summer trade,” McIntyre says of Broadwater Oysters’ OYST E R VA R I E T I E S
usual peak season. Come March, the domino effect
of Covid-19 on the hospitality, tourism and food SYDNEY ROCK OYSTER
production sectors took hold. “We went from sending Saccostrea glomerata
out 500 dozen oysters a week down to nothing. For With delicate flesh and a saline punch,
six weeks, we had absolutely no restaurant trade.” the smooth-shelled Sydney Rocks are
Broadwater Oysters dedicates up to a third of its native to Australia. Farmed along the
harvest to hospitality businesses, including renowned NSW coast, their peak season runs
restaurants like Sydney’s Quay and Bennelong. from September to March. Smaller
According to industry peak body Oysters Australia, than other farmed varieties, these
70 per cent of Australian oysters are sold through the oysters are delicious served natural
domestic hospitality market, while research shows that or with a squeeze of lemon.
Aussie consumers view oysters as a luxury ingredient PAC I F I C OY S T E R
that’s best eaten fresh when dining out. “Other local Crassostrea gigas
oyster farmers have said they had a 70 to 80 per cent
Introduced to Australia in the 1940s,
drop in overall sales. Tasmania and South Australia
this species originates from Japan.
would also have been impacted through the shutdown Large and with a salty-sweet, creamy
and border closures, and a lot of Pacific oysters [grown taste, Pacific oysters are considered
in those states] are traditionally sold into the Melbourne at their best from April to September.
market,” McIntyre adds. Suddenly, oyster farmers were Their meaty quality also makes them
tasked with finding an entirely new path to reach diners. well-suited to cooking.
“It’s been a really interesting transition. There’s been
a real change in the delivery of oysters into direct retail ANGASI OYSTER
to the public, where people are going to a fishmonger Ostrea angasi
and buying fresh oysters.” Once verging on extinction – due
If there’s any produce that sings of celebration, to colonial invaders’ overfishing
it’s those slippery little molluscs. “Oysters are just during the 1800s – this native variety
amazing to eat in the festive season because they really is now farmed in small quantities.
bring to mind that fresh, dunked-in-the-ocean feeling,” Sometimes called the “flat oyster”
says McIntyre. “Even if you can’t get to the beach, if or “native oyster”, the Angasi oyster
you’ve got some oysters, you get that total immersion has a large, shallow shell and
of beautiful ocean goodness.” Which must be our cue a strong, slightly gamey flavour.
to get shucking. ➤
Lemon-aspen vinegar
with anise-myrtle oil
and finger lime
OYSTERS À LA RAES
Lemon-aspen vinegar with
anise-myrtle oil and finger lime
MAKES ENOUGH FOR A FEW DOZEN OYSTERS
“This recipe showcases native Australian ingredients,”

says head chef Jason Saxby. “It has personality but
does not overpower the natural oyster flavour.” Start
recipe a day ahead to make the lemon-aspen vinegar.
Freshly shucked Sydney rock oysters, to serve

Pearls from 200gm red finger limes, to serve
LEMON-ASPEN VINEGAR
100 gm lemon aspen fruit (see note)
200 ml aged white wine vinegar
ANISE-MYRTLE OIL
1 bunch anise myrtle, leaves picked (see note)
200 ml light-flavoured olive oil
1 To make lemon-aspen vinegar, place vinegar

in a small saucepan and warm gently over low
heat without boiling. Crush lemon aspen into
a pulp using a mortar and pestle and place in
a sterilised jar or container. Pour warm vinegar
over lemon aspen and set aside to infuse (6 hours
or overnight). Strain and refrigerate until required.
2 To make anise-myrtle oil, place leaves and oil
in a blender and blend until combined (30 seconds).
Strain through muslin cloth into a small bowl.
3 Serve oysters with 1/2 tsp each lemon-aspen vinegar
and anise-myrtle oil, then top with finger lime pearls.
Note Lemon aspen and anise myrtle are available
from native ingredient suppliers. If fresh anise myrtle
is unavailable, substitute freeze-dried powder.
58
Lemon-pepper
granita
OYSTERS À LA LEIGH STREET WINE ROOM

Pepperberry mignonette
“Mignonette is a classic, but like all simple dishes,

its beauty lies in using the best ingredients you
can find,” says chef-owner Nathan Sasi.
2 medium shallots, very finely diced

125 ml sparkling chardonnay
75 ml chardonnay vinegar
25 ml Champagne vinegar
Freshly cracked pepperberry, to taste
Freshly shucked Pacific oysters, to serve
1 Combine shallots, sparkling chardonnay and

vinegars in a bowl. Season with pepperberry
to taste and stir to combine.
2 Serve oysters topped with 1 tsp mignonette.
OYSTERS À LA BENNELONG
Lemon-pepper granita
“The citrus flavours offset the natural saltiness

of the oysters,” says head chef Rob Cockerill.
100 gm caster sugar

300 ml strained freshly squeezed lemon juice
(about 6 medium lemons)
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
Freshly shucked Sydney rock oysters, to serve
1 Bring 300ml water to the boil in a small saucepan.

Add sugar and stir until dissolved. Remove from heat
and set aside to cool completely. Once cooled, add Pepperberry
lemon juice and pepper, then stir to combine. Pour mignonette
into a shallow tray and freeze (6 hours or overnight).
2 Scrape frozen surface with a fork to make granita,
then top oysters with 1 tsp granita and serve. ●
Photography WILL HORNER
I F T G U I
Styling HANNAH BLACKMORE
D
& LAURA JACOBS
FOOD LOVER
We’ve taken the guesswork out of gift giving with our wish list. From gifts for food
lovers and entertainers to beauty queens, here are a few of our favourite things.
THE ENTERTAINER
FROM LEFT Hightide hourglass in Green, $24.95, Birch Store. Mixology Circon coupe, $229 for pair, Waterford. Cire Trudon Abd El Kader Metallic
Christmas candle, $449, Libertine Parfumerie. Australian Christmas gin, $100, Four Pillars. Roman Banquet candle, $149, Alex and Trahanas. Tray, POA,
Hermès. Coucou carafe in Smoke, $129, Maison Balzac. OPPOSITE Scalloped serving platter, $220, Alex and Trahanas. Leif Buddha Wood hand balm,
$56, preserved blood oranges, $19.95, and truffle honey, $16.95, Birch Store. Ladi Biosas First Harvest extra-virgin olive oil, $40, Grecian Purveyor. Aeyre
cutlery set, $99 for eight, Reliquia Collective. Chocolate blocks, $9.90 each, Koko Black. Four Pillars Rare Dry Gin salt, $12, Olsson’s. Hand towel in Jade,
$55, KØbn. Raynaud Jean Cocteau dinner plate in Eurydice, $179, Number 19. Mulled Wine chocolate balls, $9.90, Koko Black. Aeon Super Slicer knife,
$999, Wüsthof. Morphy Richards kettle in Willow Green, $169, Harvey Norman. Papaya Flint Bisque Ceramic serving spoons, $18.95 for two, Birch Store.
BEAUTY QUEEN
FROM LEFT Cheek To Chic blush in Walk Of No Shame, $60, Charlotte Tilbury. Cheek Switch crème blush stick in Go On Rose, $49, Napoleon Perdis.
Bejewelled Eyes To Hypnotise eye palette, $120, Charlotte Tilbury. Rouge Hermès Satin lipstick in Rouge Casaque, $94, Hermès. Superstar Lips
lipstick in Walk Of No Shame, $49, Charlotte Tilbury. Le Vernis Longwear nail colour in 773 Chaîne d’or, $41, Chanel. Eyeliner in Walk Of No Shame,
$43, Charlotte Tilbury. Gucci Bloom Profumo di Fiori Eau de Parfum, $205, Gucci. Les Chaînes de Chanel limited-edition illuminating blush powder,
$100, Chanel. Fenty Beauty Gloss Bomb Universal Lip Luminizer gloss in Glass Slipper, $31, Sephora. Rouge Hermès lip shine in Poppy, $94, Hermès.
Rouge Allure lipstick in Cuivré, $57, Chanel. OPPOSITE, clockwise: Compagnie de Provence Exfoliating Ritual gift set, $119, Libertine Parfumerie. Aeyre
Oval tray in Turquoise Spot, $249, Reliquia Collective. On tray Youth To The People Dream eye cream, $82, Sephora. Immortelle Divine cream, $152,
L’Occitane. Biossance Squalane + Marine Algae eye cream, $89, Sephora. D.S. & Durga Crystal Pistil Eau de Parfum, $280, Mecca. Calendula Redness
Rescue calming mist, $55, Jurlique. Deep Cleansing Facial masque, $40, and Natural Hydrating sunscreen, $59, Grown Alchemist. Biossance Squalane
+ Probiotic Gel moisturiser, $81, Sephora. Chantecaille Super-Charged botanical duo, $400, Mecca. Google Nest Audio speaker, $149. Uma oils
Bestsellers Luxe travel kit, $150, David Jones. Chanel N°5 shower gel, $84, and hair mist, $71, Chanel. Heidi sunglasses in Biscuit, $219, and Lilia
sunglasses case in Pure White, $99, Oroton. Charlotte’s Magic Skin Icons skincare kit, $420, Charlotte Tilbury. Clarifying And Strengthening serum-
in-oil, $118, Sensori+. Le Labo Bergamote 22 Eau de Parfum, $440, Mecca. Hydra-Global serum, $330, Sisley Paris. Rosa Novella Eau de Cologne,
$198, Santa Maria Novella. Google Pixel 5 phone, $999. Small Hammock bag in Sand Classic Calfskin, $3,750, Loewe. Towel in Shell, $150, KØbn.
THE TRAVELLER
Introducing
The Google
Baking Buddy
Get thousands of step-by-step

recipes on Google Nest Hub Max
Requires Wi-Fi and compatible device

20YEAR IN
20
REVIEW
MOST-LIKED POSTS
T H E Y E A R LY R O U N D U P
ONE THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY CAN’T WORK
FROM HOME
TWO FLOUR AND STONE’S LEMON DREAM CAKE
THREE HOT CROSS BUNS
FOUR SELF-SAUCING PUDDINGS /
BETHANY FINN’S LEMON DELICIOUS
FIVE THE BEST JANUARY RECIPES /
PASSIONFRUIT VANILLA SLICE
THANK YOU TO OUR
763,215
FOLLOWERS ON
INSTAGRAM AND
FACEBOOK
The future of Sydney’s

MOST-TALKED ABOUT STORIES
Chinatown hangs in
the balance JULY
What will it take to

save the hospitality
industry? MARCH
Authenticity: the Google reviewer’s

fantasy, the chef ’s nightmare, the migrant’s
reclamation SEPTEMBER
Superbowl, Haymarket, Sydney. PHOTOGRAPHY YVONNE C LAM (SUPERBOWL)
MOST-VIEWED IGTV
& JANA LANGHORST (JERRY MAI).
JERRY MAI MAKES BÁNH XÈO

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ONE A STUNNING JOURNEY THROUGH THE WORLD’S ONLY

CARBON-NEGATIVE COUNTRY
MOST-VIEWED TRAVEL STORIES

TWO HAMISH MACDONALD: HOW I TRAVEL
THREE A CHEF’S GUIDE TO WHERE TO EAT IN REYKJAVIK
Coronavirus and restaurants: The Tiger’s Nest, Bhutan.
How to lend your support to

hospitality venues in the wake
of the pandemic
MARCH
What a trip to the

supermarket reveals
WILL HORNER (HOT CROSS BUNS), WILLIAM MEPPEM (CRUMPETS), JAMES MOFFATT (TUTTO ITALIANO, JAPAN AT HOME) & DEAN WILMOT (ROTI CANAI).
about our pantry-

PHOTOGRAPHY HANNAH BLACKMORE (THE SLOW ISSUE), SHARYN CAIRNS (BHUTAN), BEN DEARNLEY (BEEF RENDANG), BEN HANSEN (LARB GAI),
staple preferences
MARCH
Pause, play:
the restaurants that
took a breather, but
are coming back
APRIL
MOST POPULAR ISSUES
Why you should follow

Dan Hong’s home-
cooking videos
MARCH
George Calombaris’
restaurant empire
collapses
MARCH
MOST-VIEWED RECIPES
ONE GT’S ULTIMATE HOT CROSS

BUNS RECIPE
TWO HOW TO MAKE CRUMPETS
THREE HOW TO MAKE ROTI CANAI,
ACCORDING TO TONY TAN
FOUR TONY TAN’S GUIDE TO
MAKING BEEF RENDANG
FIVE AMY CHANTA’S GUIDE TO
MAKING LARB GAI
BOOKS OF
THE YEAR
Give the gift of inspiration from this collection
of the best cookbook releases from 2020.
SATURDAY NIGHT PASTA of Afghanistan at their popular Adelaide

(Pan Macmillan, $36.99) restaurant Parwana. This year, Durkhanai
Elizabeth Hewson first started making Ayubi shares her family’s spice-fuelled
pasta as a form of self-care, developing recipes, giving readers a taste of the
a regular Saturday night ritual to calm country and culture they left behind.
her anxiety. In her cookbook, the
Sydney-based cook shares her story, ALWAYS ADD LEMON
along with 40 simple, satisfying recipes. (Hardie Grant, $50)
Danielle Alvarez, head chef of Fred’s
BEATRIX BAKES in Sydney, believes a touch of lemon can
(Hardie Grant, $45) transform any dish. Raised in a family
Melbourne’s Beatrix bakery is renowned that lived to eat, her colourful recipes
for its whimsical cakes and creations. are both delicious and approachable.
In this book, owner Natalie Paull reveals
the recipes behind her best-loved treats, COMIDA MEXICANA
including smoky-salty chocolate chip (Smith Street Books, $45) SIMPLY
cookies and custard crumble pies. The pages of Rosa Cienfuegos’ debut (Hachette, $39.99)
cookbook come alive with the frenetic Sabrina Ghayour’s fifth cookbook
AUSTRALIAN FOOD energy and rich culture of Mexican street is a gastronomic ode to her Persian
(Murdoch Books, $49.99) food. Inspired by different regions from heritage. The self-taught home cook
Responsible for transforming the humble across the country, recipes span tacos delivers recipes that are fun and
café into destination dining, Bill Granger and tortas to tamales and sweets. flavour-packed and can be made
helped introduce Australian café culture any day of the week.
to the world. In this book, he continues A TABLE FOR FRIENDS
the trend, celebrating all-day dining. (Bloomsbury, $49.99) EAT CALIFORNIA
Sunday Times columnist Skye McAlpine (Smith Street Books, $49.99)
PARWANA brings a “sharing is caring” philosophy to Light, bright and refreshing, this
(Murdoch Books, $45) her kitchen. The recipes in these pages cookbook from recipe writer and
Since 2009, the Ayubi family has been are bountiful and hearty, made to share food stylist Vivian Lui celebrates the
sharing the colourful culinary traditions at any occasion, for two or 20. abundance of America’s west coast.
TO ASIA, WITH LOVE

(Pan Macmillan, $39.99)
As a Chinese girl born in Australia,
PHOTOGRAPHY JOHN PAUL URIZAR. STYLING LAURA JACOBS.
cook and author Hetty McKinnon

showcases the humble, soul-enriching
flavours of her childhood with this
collection of vegetarian and vegan
Asian-inspired dishes.
AFRICOLA
(Murdoch Books, $49.99)
Duncan Welgemoed’s Adelaide
restaurant, Africola, is renowned for
its fiery flavours and enchanting
atmosphere. In his debut cookbook,
the outspoken South African-born chef
encapsulates the restaurant’s energy
through an eclectic spread of recipes.
A MEAL TO
REMEMBER
D SPICY
O T AN PR
Despite Covid-19’s topsy-turvy effect on dining, (H AW
O N
GT’s editors reveal their standout dishes of 2020. AD
S)
L
BA
AH
NG
BE
UDA
NG K
OPITIA
M
EA
D-
M
VIN
EGAR CUST
AR
D
SI
X
PE Despite the year that was, I was lucky to have some
NN
Y really great meals in 2020. There was my homestay
with an elderly couple in Hagi, Japan; natural wine
and polished Sichuan cooking at Kyoto’s Taiho;
a winter picnic with friends in Hyde Park in Perth;
Birthday meals are often memorable for their the surprise pizza dinner my girlfriend organised for
celebratory nature and sense of occasion. But this my birthday; plus a home-cooked Kashmiri feast
one – a long lunch for my partner – was unforgettable prepared by Masque chef Prateek Sadhu in Mumbai.
for so many other reasons. It was a sunny Sunday But the meal I remember most was a dinner at
afternoon in late March when we entered Sixpenny’s Ah Beng Kopitiam, a homely, low-frills diner in Perth’s
dining room, made even more intimate than usual due southeast. As we do each year on the anniversary
to government restrictions. Seated by the window, we of my dad’s passing, the Veenhuyzens go and eat
made a toast to the year that was (blissfully unaware Indonesian food and Ah Beng tasted like a direct
of the year that was to come), and enjoyed the warm line back to Sumatra, the Indonesian island we lived
light filtering through the sheer curtains. in before moving to Australia.
Delicious one-bite snacks were followed by While the menu offered all the Indo favourites –
seven courses and matching wines; cured bonito, ayam goreng (fried chicken), rendang, satay all-sorts
thinly sliced and paired with citrus pepper and lime, – it was the spread of Padang dishes, a regional style
followed by kangaroo tartare, then squid with peas of cooking that originated in Sumatra, that really
and green tomato. The flavours and techniques were turned our heads.
of standard-setting finesse, as dish after dish had us Ah Beng has since fallen into our regular rotation
savouring each mouthful. As the waiter delivered the but to have my first meal there – on such an important
final course – mead-vinegar custard with frozen day and with the two women I love most – was special.
raspberries and strawberry consommé – we were Dad would have loved it (and, as he always did,
told it would be the restaurant’s last service before complained about the “fancy” wine I brought along).
heading into indefinite lockdown.
MAX VEENHUYZEN, WESTERN AUSTRALIA STATE EDITOR
At the time, I knew it was a significant moment
in my world, but looking back, I now realise how
significant it was for the world of hospitality.
KARLIE VERKERK, DEPUTY EDITOR
INO BAR L
S IN F OU
P I RI
PI N
A
H
W
Ã
OL
GO
L LEAF
BETE WI
TH
G
RI
LL
ED
POR
SA K SAME
During the brief, halcyon hiatus between lockdowns
E M
one and two, I was both overexcited and reticent about
restaurants being part of life again. I craved being fed
and watered in style but feared the 20-person limit
would make the experience resemble a failed party.
I’ve been a fan of Bar Lourinhã’s exuberant
Melb-Iberian food, booze and atmosphere since
it opened in 2007 and needed to get back there, One thing you learn fast as a reviewer is that even
not just because of my kingfish pancetta with lemon in so-called “normal” years you can’t predict which
oil addiction, but because its raucous bustle was meals will be memorable. Hotly anticipated openings
so life-affirming. But how would it cope without the can turn out ho-hum and sometimes under-the-radar
roar of the crowd? experiences yield gold. At the start of 2020 I couldn’t
Beautifully, as it turns out. The room still felt have imagined devouring a meat pie in a careworn
celebratory, not empty but elegant and Matt Yatala car park would be an event that would leave
McConnell’s food – oysters, pickles, grilled chorizo me elated. But after Brisbane’s (mercifully) short
and pork liver pinxos, Goolwa pipis in fino, roasted lockdown that flaky-topped pie tasted just like
mushrooms with garlic cream – is always a party. But freedom. Simply being allowed to travel to a “non-
the best gift that night was hope. That a restaurant essential” destination flagged a return to quasi-
with as strong and loved an identity as Bar Lourinhã normality, and I’ll remember the feeling well beyond
could morph into something fundamentally different December. In fact, I recall the joy of that pie each time
but equally successful allowed me to see past the I fret over friends around the world suffering more
stringent and far longer stay-home restrictions.
ILLUSTRATIONS JEANNEL CUNANAN & KELSIE WALKER.
hardships and challenges to where imagination,

creativity and hospitality (and a truckload of hard But when it comes to 2020’s most memorable,
work) wins out. a dinner at Thai destination Same Same in January
Things might be different but they can still be definitely snatches top billing. This stylish successor
great. The sense of hope I found at Bar Lourinhã to Longtime opened last November and recalling the
that night in June was unforgettable. pleasure of that evening in quiet moments has kept
MICHAEL HARDEN, VICTORIA STATE EDITOR me confident and optimistic about Brisbane’s dining
scene, regardless of what Covid-19 next throws at us.
It’s as much the resilience of Same Same’s owners as
it is about the grownup venture they’ve delivered. If
they can achieve this after just five years in hospitality
– and then, mid-pandemic, launch Agnes – there’s
surely hope for everyone.
FIONA DONNELLY, QUEENSLAND STATE EDITOR
The spirit
of Christmas
Covid-19 has changed the way we socialise and
celebrate, but it doesn’t mean this festive season
has to be any less special. JORDAN KRETCHMER
speaks to four people who have always done
Christmas a little differently.
GUY GROSSI
Chef and owner, Grossi Florentino,
Ombra Salumi Bar and Arlechin
For many chefs, Christmas is a time to shut-up shop – but not for Guy Grossi, who’s
been hosting his triple-threat December 25 extravaganza since he started running his
restaurant Florentino 21 years ago. Most years, the build-up to Christmas runs strong
from the spring racing carnival right up until Christmas Day. “It’s always busy, but
also such a rewarding time of year,” he says.
This year will be a little different, but Grossi still believes that whatever the festive
season looks like for each of us, the most important thing will be coming together –
particularly for those in Melbourne. “One of the greatest things we can do is come
together and socialise. Most people have been starved of this in 2020,” he says. “This
Christmas, there will be restrictions and it will look different. But I hope that we can
take time out with our family, just to take the focus away from the problems of 2020.”
Grossi is a man of tradition, and he is still holding out hope that he’ll be able to
carry out the Christmas customs he, his staff and his family have practiced for years.
Typically, the chef hosts a three-pronged Christmas event: for his staff, his
customers, and his nearest and dearest. “Every year, I make sure the team sits down
for Christmas lunch. It’s really about doing a beautiful, simple family meal to take
a moment to share before service,” says Grossi. Each year the menu changes, whether
it’s roast chicken and all the trimmings, a beautiful shared pasta or cotoletta [veal
schnitzel]. It also offers a moment of calm before the rush of lunch service, which
sees around 90 jolly guests file into Florentino for a multi-course feast.
“Often it’s the same guests year after year, and they hold their tables. Many of
them actually know each other,” says Grossi. Plates of antipasti, crab salad and turkey
are served, before diving into Grossi’s signature crisp-skinned suckling pig. Finally after
the last bits of panettone are devoured, Grossi heads home for the family Christmas
dinner. There, he sits down with his wife Melissa, their children Loredana and Carlo,
PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY (MAIN)
extended family and some longstanding team members (around 35 people all together).
“It’s an action-packed day but I wouldn’t have it any other way,” he says. They share
plates of fresh seafood, a pasta course (“It’s not an Italian Christmas without pasta”)
& SHOT BY THOM (GROSSI).
and Christmas pudding before heading to bed early after a marathon of a day.
When it comes to advice for hosting a great festive gathering, Grossi suggests
keeping some simple tasks at the end to involve guests, whether it’s chopping herbs,
making a dressing or plating something. “The family table is so much more than just
sustenance,” Grossi adds. “It’s where you go to get emotional sustenance, and this
year is going to be more important than ever.” ➤
TWO GOOD CO
Rob Caslick and Jane Strode
Christmas can be a difficult time of year for some people, but especially for those who have
fled domestic violence. Which is why the team at Two Good Co go above and beyond when
it comes to the festive season, helping to create new traditions and foster a sense of connection
within their community.
“If a woman has the courage to leave an abusive husband, you still miss his parents, or his
sister, or their nieces,” explains patron chef Jane Strode. “When they leave these situations,
they have to leave it all. That can be devastating. Then they come into this space, where people
have gone through similar things. And they feel heard and listened to.”
Founded by Rob Caslick in 2015, Two Good Co offers training and employment to women
who have escaped domestic violence, through their catering business and food delivery services.
“We’re not just providing food, but love and respect,” says Caslick. “That’s why we work with
top chefs and collaborate with respected brands. It’s to demonstrate to the women who come into
this program that even if they’ve experienced hardship, here they’re loved and respected.”
Food is at the heart of what Two Good does and at Christmas time, it becomes the focal
point as the company hosts two major events. The first is for anyone doing it tough in the
wider community. “For our Christmas party at our soup kitchen in Kings Cross, we put on
a spit-roasted lamb from Feather and Bone and Gelato Messina bring beautiful gelato and
we do a really big spread,” says Caslick.
They also do a special Christmas party for the women in their training program, past and
present. “They need that love and this is why we serve the best quality food. At Christmas time
we’re going to be laying it on as thick as possible,” says Strode.
Going all in at Christmas time has been a long-running theme for Strode, whose mother
owned a catering business and was known for welcoming as many people as possible on
Christmas day, even if meant BYO seating.
“We’d have all these orphans, the neighbours, my mum’s best friend’s had people over,
along with family. We never said no to anyone. People would bring their own chairs and
cutlery, because we’d run out of those things. But there was plenty of food. You’d just make
it happen – and that’s what Christmas is all about.”
The magic of making it happen on the day comes down to preparation, says Strode.
“Practice the dish! Have things you can make the day before. It’s summer time so do a cold
starter that can be done the night before.”
Practicalities aside, Strode and Caslick know the secret to making any shared meal special
is to create an environment where everyone feels welcome. “I’ll always remember – I was at the
soup kitchen, and a guy said to me: ‘What I love about this place is that for one hour each
week, I don’t feel homeless.’ It reminded me of why we do this.” twogood.com.au
As a young Jewish-Australian, chef Candy Berger observes
both Hanukkah and Christmas. This may sound unusual,
but with her catering background and a grandmother that
will take any excuse to put on a feast, it’s not surprising.
Growing up in London, Berger was raised in a progressive
Orthodox household. “We always went to synagogue. We never
celebrated Christmas, and we did Hanukkah.” Later, her family
moved to Santa Barbara, where her mum started a Jewish-focused
catering company. This would go on to spark the inspiration
for Berger’s own businesses, Lox in A Box – a specialty bagel
shop in Bondi – and catering company Fed Kitchen.
Eventually, Candy and her family moved to Australia,
where they started to celebrate Christmas despite not having
any religious connection to the holiday. “My grandma,
who is an amazing cook and still a private chef at 83, does
a Christmas lunch every year for 50-odd people,” she says.
There is no tree or presents but sharing in the joy of the
time of the year has become its own special family tradition.
“Really, any excuse to have the family together, and we’ll
take it,” says Berger. The Christmas season also came to play
CANDY BERGER a significant role in her business as well. “Clients would ask
Chef and owner, Lox in A Box me to do Christmas dinners and lunches, so I learned how
and Fed Kitchen to do turkeys, giant glazed hams; the whole thing.”
For Berger, Hanukkah remains the most central end-of-
year holiday. “Hanukkah’s symbolism represents the soul and
the flame of the Jewish people living on,” she says. Celebrated
across eight days and nights, Berger’s family gather for meals
and sometimes presents. And although it’s not as big as it was
when she was growing up, it’s still important. “You eat food
cooked in oil to symbolise the oil lamp and the menorah
candle, so latkes [potato pancakes], doughnuts and other
traditional Jewish things,” she says. “The sentiments are
similar to Christmas. Gathering together, enjoying food,
and making the story what you want of it.”
Whether it’s Hanukkah or Christmas, Berger says the
sentiment that connects both is food. “Food for me is about
gathering together. It’s such a common thread for everybody.
PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (LATKES) & JES LINDSAY (CASLICK & STRODE).
You can sit down with anyone and you’ll have something to
talk about if you talk about food. It’s a common ground.”
Her secret to making everyone feel welcome? “Share plates
are a beautiful way to bring people together,” she says. “Having
a single-plated meal can feel a bit formal. It’s nice to have
smaller lots of share plates that you share with 2-3 people,”
And while this year may feel different, Berger hopes
people can embrace the special side of smaller events. “This
year will be different. At the same time, this leaves room to
have more intimate gatherings, and honest conversations.”
“I think we’ll all get to the end of this year, and really
reflect and think about it honestly. People often go through
life with their eyes closed, and this has made us all really open
them up, and open our eyes to the experience of others.”
loxinabox.com.au, fedkitchen.com ●
SUMMER
DRINKING
GUIDE
All glassware, used

throughout, from
Riedel. All other
props stylist’s own.
Photography WILL HORNER

Styling KELSIE WALKER
From crisp, crunchy whites to juicy, chilled reds, these wines are made
to pair with the long, lazy days of summer, writes SAMANTHA PAYNE.
S 4
ummertime wines are all about texture; 2020 Ngeringa Pétillant Naturel,
from classics that use skin contact to build Adelaide Hills, SA, $33
mouth feel and complexity, to chilled reds Overall, 2020 produced some outstanding fruit – but
bursting with juicy red fruit and crunchy not without its challenges. Made with biodynamically
acidity. Of course, no summer drinks list is farmed pink semillon and viognier, this pet nat’s
complete without the snap, crackle and pop of cumquat, floral musk and grapefruit pith aromatics
a sparkling wine – and there’s never been a more would be a welcome addition to any backyard drinks.
exciting time to explore the flavours of low and ngeringa.com
5
no-alcohol beer, spirits and wine, as well as this
summer’s hottest trend: seltzer. NV André Clouet Grande Réserve,
Champagne, France, $85
1
This exceptional value Champagne is made with 100
2017 Best’s Great Western Sparkling Shiraz, per cent pinot noir grapes. The appeal of blanc de
Pictured p77
Grampians, Vic, $35 noirs is the expressiveness of the style; red cherry
No Christmas table in Australia is complete meets stone fruits with just a hint of toasty brioche.
without a sparkling shiraz. While it may go in Perfect for a long lunch paired with swimmer crab
and out of fashion over the decades, you can and saffron angel hair pasta. princewinestore.com.au
FI ZZ AND PO P
rely on Best’s to consistently deliver a version

that is both approachable and delicious.
bestwines.com
2 2019 Dal Zotto Col Fondo Prosecco,

King Valley, Vic, $30
Think of this as the love child of a pet nat and a
prosecco, from the family who planted Australia’s
first prosecco grapes in 1999. The Dal Zotto
family live and breathe all things prosecco and
this traditionally made version is cloudy and
moreish. dalzotto.com.au
3 2009 House of Arras Blanc de Blancs,

Tas, $120
Arras has long been synonymous with
exceptional sparkling wine, not just here in
Australia but globally. A traditional wine to pair
with oysters, or if you’re feeling particularly
decadent, try baked camembert with fresh
honeycomb. houseofarras.com.au
1 2020 Fleet Pinot Gris,
4 2020 Geyer Wine Co Chenin Blanc,
LIGH T AN D WH ITE
Mornington Peninsula, Vic, $30 Barossa Valley, SA, $33
From Australia’s spiritual home of pinot gris, comes this Made using minimal intervention, this chenin blanc
delightfully textural wine, loaded with white florals and offers balanced acidity and enough texture to keep you
orchard fruits. Extended skin contact builds texture, making interested. Its savoury elements would pair wonderfully
it perfect for curries, sambals and pho. fleetwines.com.au with a lavish brunch, featuring smoked salmon bagels,
2
crème fraîche and dill. geyerwines.com.au
5
2017 Loosen Barry Wolta Wolta Riesling,
Clare Valley, SA, $120 2018 Jo Landron La Louvetrie Muscadet Sèvre
You can’t have a summer drinks’ selection without a riesling; et Maine, Loire Valley, France, $40
it’s the lemon sorbet of the wine world. But this is riesling This biodynamic beauty is the benchmark by which
with a twist, a collaboration between two of the most all other muscadet is judged. Reminiscent of riesling
recognised riesling families in the world. jimbarry.com but with more floral nuances and a saline minerality,
3
it’s perfect to pair with lobster or an extravagant fresh
2018 Sentiō Aligoté, Beechworth, Vic, $35 seafood platter. thewinecollective.com.au ➤
This one is for chardonnay lovers and the ABCs
(anything but chardonnay) alike. A paradox, yes,
but they don’t call aligoté “poor man’s Burgundy”
for nothing. With its magical pear
blossom-meets-Granny Smith apple
character – this aligoté will be the
MVP of the holidays.
sentiowines.com.au
1
C H IL LE D RE DS A ND PI NK S
2019 Mada Syrah Nouveau,

Murrumbateman, NSW, $30
There’s nothing more Australian than a glass of
shiraz (well, apart from maybe a sausage sizzle...) but
Hamish Young has put a modern spin on this classic
Aussie variety with his syrah nouveau that’s bright,
vibrant and bursting with flavour. madawines.com.au
2 2020 Meadowbank Gamay,

Derwent Valley, Tas, $45
The master of Tasmanian fruit, Peter Dredge, takes 4 2019 Si Vintners Sophie Rosé,
Margaret River, WA, $49
this variety out for a spin using vines planted in 1987. Made from organically-farmed pinot noir grapes that
This gamay is everything you want in a chilled red, remain on their skins during fermentation, this wine
irresistibly juicy with a vibrancy that’s electric – perfect delivers serious texture and structure. If you’re tired
for warm summer nights. meadowbank.com.au of watery rosé wines that fade into the background,
3
this is the one for you. sivintners.com
5
2019 Patrick Sullivan Rain Field Blend,
Gippsland, Vic, $52 2019 Maison Saint Aix Rosé,
Patrick Sullivan’s wines have always been about Provence, France, $62 for 1.5L
precision and purity and his newest range shows When you want a classic, dry rosé head straight to
a depth and complexity rarely seen in field blends. the specialists in Provence. The large magnum format
The bright cherries and raspberries of cabernet franc makes it the perfect entertaining wine – just add
meet pinot gris, and soft tannins that call for an “I’m a platter of cured meats and your favourite cheeses
too tired to cook tonight” pizza. drnks.com for lazy afternoon drinks. kentstreetcellars.com.au
1 4
LOW AN D N O ALC OH OL
2019 Braida Brachetto d’Acqui, Vacay Kakadu Plum Alcoholic Seltzer,

Piedmont, Italy, 5.5% ABV, $24 for 375ml Sydney, NSW, 4% ABV, $22 for 4 x 330ml
Braida has been a hidden secret for decades; it’s low Move over White Claw – there’s a new alcoholic
in alcohol and has a light fizz similar to a Moscato but seltzer in town and it’s 100 per cent Australian-owned
with more complex flavours. Intensely floral with just and made. Equal parts refreshing and flavoursome, the
the right amount of raspberries and strawberries to Kakadu Plum delivers a cranberry-like tartness that’s
make it the essential brunch wine. enoteca.com.au the perfect alternative to soft drink mixers (while also
2
being low carb and only 61 calories). vacayseltzer.com
5
NON 3 Toasted Cinnamon & Yuzu,
Melbourne, Vic, 0% ABV, $30 for 750ml Lyres Spiced Cane Spirit,
Yuzu – an aromatic Japanese citrus – has taken the Sydney, NSW, 0% ABV, $45 for 700ml
world by storm this year and NON has elevated this There’s a good reason why Lyre’s is the most
non-alcoholic offering with the addition of Sri Lankan awarded non-alcoholic spirit company in the world,
cinnamon and Murray River salt to draw out floral celebrated for its accurate and concentrated flavours.
characters, to create the perfect poolside aperitif. The Spiced Cane (a take on spiced rum) is perfect for
pnvmerchants.com an Espresso Martini nightcap or a refreshing Dark
3
and Stormy without the hangxiety. lyres.com.au ●
Sobah Finger Lime Cerveza, Burleigh Heads,
Qld, 0.05% ABV, $18 for 4 x 330ml
Sobah is an Aboriginal-owned company delivering
quality non-alcoholic craft beer made with native
Australian fruits and botanicals. The finger lime
cerveza is its take on Mexican beer – but better.
The finger lime adds a floral citrus note to the crisp
and hoppy flavours. sobah.com.au
JEWEL OF
THE COAST
Discover Western Australia’s sustainably sourced coastal
treasure, the Leeuwin Coast Akoya, through the inspired menus
of award-winning local chefs Melissa Palinkas and Seth James.
P
roduce that serves as both a blank canvas SETH JAMES, WILLS DOMAIN
and a standalone hero ingredient is a rare and “Being given the opportunity to
special thing. And that’s just what two Western work with a unique product from
Australian chefs have been experimenting with the amazing coastline of the state
I now call home – what more could
and are now featuring in their cutting-edge restaurants.
you want as a chef? I’m enjoying
Enter the Leeuwin Coast Akoya, a pearlescent oyster experimenting with the Akoya.
variety grown sustainably on the Western Australian Grilling or poaching them is my
coastline near Albany. A rich and meaty shellfish, the favourite way to cook them at
Akoya offers a variety of culinary possibilities. the moment.”
The versatility of the Leeuwin Coast Akoya has it
looking right at home on Melissa Palinkas’s menus at
Ethos Deli + Dining Room and Young George. In
her award-winning establishments you might find the
Akoya buttermilk fried, olive oil poached or paired with
chicken in an all-day omelette. With her food philosophy
based on seasonal, local and sustainable produce, the
Akoya fits her ethos well. “The Akoya act as natural
filtration systems and create a positive ecosystem in our
waters,” says Palinkas, who searched far and wide for
biodegradable plastic wrap and insists suppliers use her
environmentally friendly crates for produce. “As a chef
with an ethical approach to food, that is important to me.”
Seth James, another acclaimed West Australian chef,
is just as passionate about sustainability and renowned
for his innovative and inventive use of fresh produce.
His restaurant, Wills Domain, champions local, seasonal MELISSA PALINKAS,
produce with low-food miles. With the Akoya being ETHOS DELI + DINING
ROOM AND YOUNG
harvested just a few hours away from the regional GEORGE
restaurant’s kitchen, it’s no surprise you’ll find poached “The versatility of the Akoya
Akoya with ginger and cucumber (a fresh twist on is exciting to me. I enjoy
a classic Chinese dish) on the Wills Domain menu. experimenting with different
A refined restaurant committed to wild-harvested techniques and flavours.
produce is the perfect place to experience the rich There seems to be no limit
silkiness of the Akoya – until you learn you can make to the ways in which you can
cook with this unique product.”
it yourself with the following recipes. Homegrown and
home-cooked? It doesn’t get better than that.
Buttermilk-fried Leeuwin Coast
Akoya with smoked citrus emulsion
and pickled lemon skin SERVES 4
12 Leeuwin Coast Akoya 2 Shuck Akoya and rinse
Canola oil, for frying in ice-cold water. Place into
SEASONED FLOUR a small stainless-steel bowl
100 ml buttermilk and pour over buttermilk.
200 gm potato flour Leave overnight.
100 gm rice flour 3 Clean shells and set aside.
1 tsp salt Combine all flours and spices
1 tbsp dried oregano and set aside.
1 tsp white pepper 4 In a bowl, whisk egg yolks
1 tsp smoked paprika with smoked paprika, mustard
1 tsp garlic powder and lemon juice. Stream in
1 tsp onion powder grapeseed oil until emulsified.
SMOKED CITRUS EMULSION Season with salt and adjust
2 egg yolks as needed.
Poached Leeuwin Coast Akoya ½
1 tsp smoked paprika
tsp Dijon mustard
5 To assemble, coat each
with ginger and cucumber SERVES 4

Akoya in seasoned flour
15 ml lemon juice and place on a rack.
1 tsp salt 6 Heat a shallow pan with
12 Leeuwin Coast Akoya, 1 Remove Akoya from the 250 ml grapeseed oil oil. When it reaches 190°C,
shucked shell and remove the abductor PICKLED LEMON SKIN fry Akoya in two batches
1 tbsp grapeseed oil muscle from both sides. Spent lemon husk of of six until crisp.
½ tsp sesame oil Rinse through cold water 1 lemon, juice and peel 7 Take pickled peel from
35 gm knob ginger, and remove the beard from reserved, pith removed the solution. Dice very finely
finely shredded the Akoya. 2 tsp sea salt and place in a little olive oil.
6 tbsp Shaoxing wine 2 Bring a pan to smoking hot, ½ tsp citric acid 8 To serve, place the
2 garlic cloves, finely grated add all oil and ginger and 60 ml water smoked citrus emulsion
300 ml chicken stock stir-fry until golden brown. into a sauce bottle and
1 tbsp ginger vinegar Deglaze pan with Shaoxing 1 Make the pickled lemon squeeze a good amount
1 tsp sugar wine. skin two days in advance. onto each reserved shell.
2 tbsp light soy 3 Add garlic, stock, vinegar, Start with peeling the outside 9 Place Akoya on top of the
6 spring onions, sugar and light soy and bring of the spent lemon husk – the emulsion and spoon a little
cut into lengths to the boil. Add spring onions lemon juice will go into the pickled lemon skin on top.
1½ tbsp cornflour and simmer for 2 minutes. emulsion. Finely julienne peel, Repeat with remaining Akoya.
50 ml water 4 Make a slurry from the add salt and citric acid and
1 Lebanese cucumber, cornflour and water then leave for 24 hours. After
sliced into batons whisk into the pan. 24 hours, add the water
2 tbsp roasted sesame 5 Add Akoya and poach for 3 and leave overnight.
seeds minutes. Check seasoning,
Steamed rice, to serve adding light soy to taste.
6 Remove pan from the “We have a culture of zero waste and
heat and fold through it’s just who we are. Working with
cucumber and sesame seeds.
like-minded producers, like Leeuwin
Serve with steamed rice.
Coast, is a part of that.”
Melissa Palinkas
FOOD
DECEMBER
’Tis the season

Christmas showstoppers, Jaclyn Koludrovic’s
dietary-friendly desserts, bold flavours from Africola,
and fresh, seasonal recipes by Danielle Alvarez.
Macadamia parfait
with poached
pineapple
PHOTOGRAPHY JAMES MOFFATT.
p 104
CLASSIC
A
CHRISTMAS FEAST
This generous menu will feed a crowd and keep

everyone happy with plenty of traditional favourites.
TO START
118
Pork, duck and pistachio terrine
Danielle Alvarez
p
THE MAIN EVENT
93
Whole glazed ham with roasted figs (GF) (DF)
p
94
Roast duck with peaches (GF) (DF)
p
ON THE SIDE
112
The world’s greatest roast potatoes (V) (GF) (DF)
Duncan Welgemoed
p
Parsnips and buttermilk (V)
112
Duncan Welgemoed
p
SWEETS
Fruit mince crostata (GF)
Jaclyn Koludrovic p 104
Raspberry, vanilla and chocolate lamingtons (GF) (DF)
100
Jaclyn Koludrovic
p
AFOO
SE D
A
LOVER’S CHRISTMAS
Make seafood the hero of the day with this fresh

and sumptuous menu. Be sure to splurge on the
freshest catch available. MODERN
A
TO START
111
Oyster cream and potato chips (GF) (DF)
FESTIVE MENU
Duncan Welgemoed
p
111
Raw fish (GF) (DF)
Welcome everyone to your table with this dietary-
p Duncan Welgemoed friendly menu, comprised of vegetarian, gluten-free
and dairy-free options.
THE MAIN EVENT
Seafood platter with a trio of sauces (GF)
p94 TO START
Fig and goat’s curd salad with smoky
117
Yuzu-and-ginger cured salmon with wasabi leaves, paprika vinaigrette (V) (GF)
p90
pickles and crème fraÎche (GF) Danielle Alvarez p
ON THE SIDE THE MAIN EVENT
111
Cos hearts and green goddess dressing (V) (GF) Yuzu-and-ginger cured salmon with wasabi leaves,
p
90
Duncan Welgemoed pickles and crème fraÎche (GF)
p
PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER.
120 97
Zucchini with mint, lemon and bottarga (GF) (DF) Salted ricotta tart with zucchini
Danielle Alvarez
p and black garlic (V)
p
SWEETS ON THE SIDE
Lemon verbena, white chocolate and fig tart (GF) Radish with preserved lemon, feta, mint
101 118
Jaclyn Koludrovic and sesame (V) (GF)
p p Danielle Alvarez
Citrus with Meyer lemon dressing and
117
shaved fennel (V) (GF) (DF)
Danielle Alvarez p
Smashed cucumber salad with toasted chilli oil (V) (GF)
113
Duncan Welgemoed
p
SWEETS
Macadamia parfait with pineapple,
ginger and finger lime (GF) (DF)
104
Jaclyn Koludrovic
p
i v e f e
as
fest
Photography BEN DEARNLEY
ts
Styling VIVIEN WALSH
Food preparation
CHARLOTTE BINNS-McDONALD
’Tis the season for spending time with

loved ones and that generosity of spirit
comes into its own with the spectacle
of this show-stopping festive table.
Satin cake plate (middle tier of

seafood platter) and various small
bowls from Batch Ceramics. Flow
dessert bowl (on top of seafood
platter) from Dinosaur Designs.
Carafe and Champagne flutes
from Maison Balzac.
Seafood platter
with a trio of
sauces
p 94
Yuzu-and-ginger cured salmon
with wasabi leaves, pickles and crème fraîche
SERVES 8-10 // PREP TIME 40 MINS (PLUS CURING, PICKLING)
This recipe is made for entertaining at home with no last-minute cooking required
– just slice the salmon and arrange everything on the table for guests to serve
themselves. Begin this recipe at least a day ahead to cure the salmon. The pickles
can be made ahead of time or, for a light pickle, 30 minutes before serving.
2tsp whole white peppercorns 1 Dry-roast peppercorns and coriander

2tsp coriander seeds seeds until fragrant (30 seconds), then
150 gm fine sea salt crush and grind coarsely in a mortar and
For a striking 130 gm caster sugar pestle. Transfer spice blend to a bowl
season-perfect 1tbsp finely grated ginger then add salt, sugar, ginger, rind, sake
1tbsp finely grated lemon rind and yuzu juice and mix well.
dish – on both
2tbsp sake 2 Place a 60cm-long piece of plastic
festive and 1tbsp yuzu juice wrap on a work surface and spread half
climate fronts 1.5kg side of salmon fillet, trimmed of the curing mixture in the centre to the
– this citrus- skin on, pin-boned same size as the salmon. Place salmon on
Fresh wasabi leaves, red-veined top, skin side down, then spread over the
infused cured sorrel and radish sprouts, to serve remaining curing mixture. Wrap salmon
salmon hits 250 ml (1 cup) crème fraîche, to serve with curing mixture tightly in plastic wrap,
all the right PICKLED CUCUMBER AND RADISH place in a deep tray and refrigerate,
1 tbsp ginger, cut into julienne turning once or twice, for 24 hours.
flavour notes. 60 ml yuzu juice 3 Meanwhile, for pickles, combine ginger,
1 tbsp caster sugar yuzu juice, sugar and salt in a bowl and
1 tsp salt flakes stir until dissolved. Add cucumbers and
200 gm baby cucumbers (Qukes), radishes and stir to combine. Cover and
shaved lengthways transfer to the fridge until serving.
1 large watermelon radish, quartered, 4 To serve, lightly rinse curing mixture
thinly sliced off salmon and pat dry with paper towels.
6 heirloom radishes, halved Cut salmon into thin slices. To serve,
arrange wasabi leaves, pickles, sorrel
and sprouts over salmon. Drizzle over
olive oil and a little of the pickling liquid.
Serve with crème fraîche on the side. ➤
This page Globe bowl

and Globe dish from
Batch Ceramics. All
Salmon All props
stylist’s own.
Whole glazed ham with roasted figs
SERVES 10-12 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 1 HR 30 MINS (PLUS COOLING)
Choose one of our three glazes below and make this show-stopping beauty the centrepiece of your
Christmas table. Try plums with the cabernet glaze or nectarines with the chilli, tamarind and lime glaze.
1 large leg ham (about 8kg) 1 Make your chosen glaze (see right). FIG, GINGER AND COFFEE GLAZE
1 quantity of glaze 2 Preheat oven to 200°C. Use a small Combine 1 cup fig conserve, 2 tbsp
6 figs, halved sharp knife to cut around ham rind 10cm ginger, cut to julienne, 60ml (¼ cup)
6 fresh fig leaves (optional) from top of shank. Run the knife under strong espresso coffee, ½ tsp each
2 sprigs each bay leaves and rosemary the rind around edge of ham. Run your ground cinnamon, cloves and cardamom
thumb underneath rind and above fat and ¼ cup (60ml) red wine vinegar in
to separate edges all the way around. a small saucepan over medium heat.
Starting from the widest edge, gently pull Stir to combine then simmer until
back rind to remove. Score fat in straight slightly thickened (2-3 minutes).
lines at 2cm intervals – do not cut deeply
or the fat will spread apart during cooking. SPICED CABERNET GLAZE
3 Place ham on a rack in a large Combine 2 x 100gm packets cabernet
roasting pan with a cup of water, then paste or plum paste, 125ml (½ cup)
brush with some glaze. Bake, brushing red wine, 1 tbsp red wine vinegar, 1 tsp
with glaze every 20 minutes and rotating each whole allspice and juniper berries,
tray if necessary, until sticky, golden lightly crushed, in a small saucepan over
and warmed through (1-1½ hours). low heat. Stir to dissolve then simmer
Rest for 30 minutes before carving. until thickened and combined (1 minute).
4 Meanwhile, place fig leaves, if using,
on a large oven tray, top with figs, cut CHILLI, TAMARIND AND LIME GLAZE
side up, then brush with a little of the Stir 140gm crushed light palm sugar
glaze, drizzle with oil and season to and 160ml water in a saucepan over
taste. Bake figs with the ham in the low heat to dissolve sugar, then increase
last 20 minutes of cooking time or heat to medium-high and cook without
until just tender. Decorate ham with stirring until caramelised (4-5 minutes).
bay and rosemary sprigs and serve Remove from heat and add 2 tbsp fish
with roasted figs. sauce and 1 tbsp lime juice (carefully as
hot caramel will spit), then add 2 thinly
sliced long red chillies, 3 very finely
sliced makrut lime leaves and 1½ tbsp
tamarind purée and set aside to cool. ➤
This page Tumbler

(far right) from Maison
Balzac. All other props
stylist’s own. Ham
Welcome platter from
Batch Ceramics.
Roast duck with peaches
SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 3 HRS
Seafood platter with a trio of sauces Spice, stone fruit and duck is a classic
combination that never fails to impress.
SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 1 HR 15 MINS // COOK 20 MINS
A seafood platter is the quintessential festive crowd-pleaser. With three accompanying 12 star anise
sauces we’ve got all bases covered. We have combined hot and cold seafood in this 1 cinnamon stick
platter but feel free to mix and match the elements depending on your preferences 2 oranges
and time constraints. The sauces can be made a day ahead. Pictured p89 40 gm (⅓ cup) sea salt flakes
1 bunch lemon thyme
12 razor clams SPICED TOMATO AND ’NDUJA DRESSING 1 duck (about 2.3kg)
60 ml (1/4 cup) dry white wine Heat 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil in 2 tbsp olive oil
12 scallops, on the half shell, cleaned a large frying pan over high heat, add 12 banana shallots, halved
6 scampi, halved lengthways, cleaned 250gm grape tomatoes and fry, tossing 4 yellow peaches, halved, pitted
12 large cooked king prawns occasionally, until scorched and softened
3 (800gm-1 kg each) small cooked (2-3 minutes). Add 2 tbsp ’nduja and 1 For spiced salt, dry-roast 4 star anise
lobsters, split and cleaned cook, stirring, until lightly browned and the cinnamon stick in a small frying
12 freshly shucked oysters (1 minute). Add 1 finely grated garlic pan until toasted and fragrant (20-30
Lemon wedges and crushed ice, clove and cook until fragrant (1 minute). seconds). Grind finely in a spice grinder
to serve Add 2 tbsp red wine vinegar, simmer or with a mortar and pestle. Finely
WHIPPED CHERVIL BUTTER until reduced by half (30-60 seconds) grate the rind from 1 orange then juice.
175 gm salted cultured butter, softened then remove from heat and crush lightly Combine spice mix, orange rind and
2 tbsp chopped chives with a fork. Stir in another 2 tbsp olive salt in a bowl and stir to combine. Add
2 tbsp finely chopped chervil oil then season to taste. 2 tsp finely chopped lemon thyme.
2 tsp finely grated lemon rind 2 Preheat oven to 180°C. Pat duck dry
1 garlic clove, crushed SORREL AND LEMON MAYONNAISE inside and out with paper towels. Use
In a small food processor, process a sharp, fine skewer to prick duck skin
1 Make dipping sauces (see right). 2 egg yolks, 1 tsp Dijon mustard, 1 cup all over. Drizzle duck with half the oil
2 To make whipped chervil butter, small sorrel leaves (plus extra for serving) and season skin and cavity with some
whisk butter with an electric mixer until and 1 tbsp lemon juice until very smooth of the spiced orange salt and ground
light and fluffy (3 minutes). Add herbs, (1-2 minutes). Gradually add 250ml (1 cup) black pepper to taste. Halve remaining
rind and garlic and season to taste grapeseed oil in a thin, steady stream orange and add to cavity then seal with
then whisk until combined. Transfer to with motor operating then continue to a toothpick. Place duck on a wire rack
a small bowl then set aside. (If making process until smooth. Season to taste. in a roasting pan and roast until skin
ahead of time, refrigerate then return Serve with a few sorrel leaves. is golden (1 hour). Carefully pour off
to room temperature before serving). excess fat from pan.
3 To cook razor clams, heat wine GREEN EDAMAME AND AVOCADO 3 Reduce oven to 150°C. Roast duck,
in a large, deep frying pan over high Process 150gm (1 cup) edamame adding shallots to pan in the last
heat. Add clams, cover and cook until beans (plus extra for serving), podded, 30 minutes, until flesh is tender when
clams have opened and flesh is opaque thawed in a food processor until finely pierced with a knife and shallots are
(1-2 minutes). Use tongs to transfer to chopped. Add 2 tbsp shiro (white) miso, tender (11/2 hours).
a tray, reserve cooking liquid and set 2 tbsp lime juice, 1½ tbsp rice wine 4 Transfer duck and shallots to a tray,
aside. Top each clam with a spoonful vinegar, 1 small avocado, chopped reserving baking pan, cover and set
of whipped chervil butter. Drizzle clams and 1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves aside to rest. Increase oven to 200°C.
with some of the cooking liquid just and process until smooth then season Add peaches to reserved pan and drizzle
before serving. to taste. Sprinkle with a few edamame with remaining oil. Season with some
4 Preheat grill to high. Place scallops to serve. (Cover surface with plastic of the spiced salt and top with remaining
and scampi on separate baking trays. wrap if making ahead). star anise and lemon thyme sprigs. Roast
Drizzle seafood with oil then season. peaches until just tender (20 minutes).
Grill one tray at a time until seafood is 5 Transfer peaches to tray with duck.
just tender (2 minutes). Remove from Duck Welcome platter Pour off excess fat from pan. Add orange
heat and top with a generous spoonful and Tapas plate from juice to pan, bring to the boil, stirring,
of whipped chervil butter. Batch Ceramics. All other over medium heat until a light jus is
5 Arrange seafood on a large serving formed (5 minutes). Serve duck with
platter. Serve with dipping sauces. peaches and shallots, drizzled with
orange jus and remaining spiced salt. ➤
Salted ricotta tart with zucchini and black garlic
SERVES 8 // PREP TIME 40 MINS // COOK 30 MINS
This luscious, summery tart is guaranteed to impress every guest, including the carnivores.
375 gm puff pastry (see note) 1 Preheat oven to 220°C. Unroll the 6 Place pastry on a serving plate and
750 gm fresh firm ricotta puff pastry, and place on a large lined spread evenly with the ricotta mixture.
100 gm ricotta salata, finely grated oven tray. Place 4 small cookie cutters, Top with the zucchini mixture. Drizzle
1 lemon, rind finely grated, juiced 2cm in depth, in the corners of the tray, with remaining dressing and scatter
¼ cup finely chopped chives then place another heavy baking tray over remaining herbs and almonds.
¼ cup chopped oregano leaves, on top, to ensure even rising. Bake until Note We prefer Carême puff pastry,
plus extra leaves to serve pastry is golden and cooked through which comes in 375gm sheets, but any
3 baby green zucchini, thinly sliced (20-22 minutes). Remove top tray and good-quality puff pastry would work. ●
into rounds set aside to cool.
6 patty-pan squash, shaved 2 Meanwhile, to make dressing,
2 medium green zucchini, shaved combine all ingredients in a bowl
lengthways and whisk well then season to taste.
2 white zucchini, shaved lengthways 3 Combine ricotta, rind, juice and
8 baby zucchini with flowers, halved three quarters of the herbs in a bowl
4 yellow mini vine capsicums, halved then season to taste.
60 ml (1/4 cup) extra-virgin olive oil 4 Combine baby green zucchini,
½ tsp smoked paprika 1 patty-pan squash and half the green
150 gm dry-roasted almonds, coarsely zucchini in a bowl.
chopped 5 Heat a char-grill plate over high heat.
BLACK GARLIC DRESSING Place remaining zucchini, squash and
4 black garlic cloves, mashed with a fork the capsicums on 2 large trays then
2 tbsp sherry vinegar drizzle with oil, sprinkle with paprika and
1 tbsp baby capers in brine, drained season to taste. Chargrill, in batches,
125 ml (1/2 cup) extra-virgin olive oil until just tender and grill marks appear
(1-2 minutes each side). Transfer cooked
zucchini into bowl with raw zucchini and
half the almonds then drizzle with half
the dressing. Toss gently to combine.
This page Champagne
flute from Maison Balzac.
All other props stylist’s
own. Tart Stone platter
and Shell teaspoon from
Dinosaur Designs. All
other props stylist’s own.
S W E ET
A
Lemon verbena,
white chocolate
and fig tart
p 101
SURPRISE
Pastry chef JACLYN KOLUDROVIC welcomes everyone to enjoy
a Christmas treat with this assortment of dietary-friendly desserts.
Words GEORGIE MEREDITH
Photography JAMES MOFFATT
Styling STEVE PEARCE
Food preparation JESSICA BROOK

I
t would seem somewhat unlucky that Jaclyn Koludrovic, dessert queen and former
head pastry chef at Bondi’s Icebergs Dining Room and Bar, would end up with
two gluten- and dairy-intolerant children. “Our son, Stan, was the first,” she says.
“He’s been dairy-intolerant since birth, so I really struggled with breastfeeding.
We had to put him on formula.
“Then, when he was about two or three years old, he started being sick and I couldn’t
work out what it was. We went to a kinesiologist and she said it was both dairy and gluten,
and to try and keep him away from it.” Daughter Blinky, a year younger, followed suit.
Despite the diagnosis, the now Los Angeles-based chef has seamlessly navigated
around the issue; Koludrovic uses easily accessible substitutes for ingredients such
as flour and butter, along with seasonal fruit and innovative flavour combinations,
to take her desserts to the next level. “My inspiration comes from looking at something
that’s not gluten- or dairy-free and thinking, ‘how can I change that to become what
I want’,” she says. “The products that you can get now are so good that you can pretty
much swap things one for one and you have no issues with them.”
Koludrovic, who normally spends Christmas with her children and husband Monty
on Lord Howe Island, shares six festive dessert recipes with us this month. Each is either
gluten- or dairy-free (several are both), and all give a nostalgic nod to childhood treats and
definitive Christmas flavours.
cocoa into one half and beat to combine.

Drop spoonfuls of both batters into
prepared pan, then use a knife to gently
Raspberry, vanilla and chocolate lamingtons

swirl. Tap pan on bench to settle mixture,
then bake until a skewer inserted in the
MAKES 15 // PREP TIME 40 MINS // COOK 20 MINS (PLUS CHILLING) centre comes out clean (18-20 minutes).
Set aside to cool in pan.
“I make this for the kids all the time,” says Jaclyn Koludrovic. “The lime zest 2 Invert cake onto a board lined
adds a bit of tartness and zing, and the coconut cream and cocoa powder makes with baking paper. Evenly trim top with
it a bit fudgier and not too sweet.” Lamingtons can be made a day ahead. a serrated knife. Spread raspberry jam
over the top and sprinkle with lime zest.
185 gm softened dairy-free butter 100 gm caster sugar Cut cake in half widthways and sandwich
1tsp vanilla bean paste 100 gm Dutch-process cocoa together with jam in the middle. Freeze
220 gm (1 cup) caster sugar until firm (30 minutes). Cut cake into
3 eggs, at room temp 1 Preheat oven to 180°C. Grease and 5cm squares and return to freezer to
270 gm gluten-free plain flour line a 30cm x 20cm x 3.5cm lamington chill (10 minutes).
23/4tsp gluten-free baking powder pan with baking paper. Beat butter, 3 For the icing, bring coconut cream,
125 ml (½ cup) almond milk, at room temp vanilla and sugar using an electric mixer sugar and 40ml water to a simmer in
2 tbsp Dutch-process cocoa until combined and creamy (5 minutes). a small saucepan over medium heat. Add
175 gm raspberry jam Add eggs one at a time, beating well sifted cocoa and whisk continuously until
Finely grated zest of ½ lime between additions. Beat combined sifted very smooth (1 minute). Strain into a bowl.
200 gm shredded coconut flour and baking powder into butter 4 Combine shredded coconut and
20 gm freeze dried raspberries, crushed mixture on low speed alternating with freeze-dried raspberries on a tray. Coat
ICING almond milk until just combined. Transfer cakes with icing, then with coconut
500 ml (2 cups) coconut cream half the mixture into another bowl. Sift mixture. Chill until firm before serving.
Lemon verbena, white chocolate and fig tart cream and crème fraîche in a bowl to
soft peaks, then refrigerate. Bring
SERVES 10 // PREP TIME 1 HR 30 MINS // COOK 30 MINS (PLUS CHILLING, SETTING, INFUSING) milk, zest and lemon verbena leaves
to a simmer in a small saucepan over
“This is a Breton pastry I learnt when I was working at Circa in Melbourne, medium heat, then remove from heat
but I subbed in a gluten-free flour, which works really well,” says Koludrovic. and set aside to infuse (10 minutes).
“I love the flavour of verbena and the white chocolate. The crème fraîche cuts Whisk egg yolks in a bowl, then add
through that sweetness a bit, too.” It’s best to prepare the separate elements milk mixture, whisking continuously to
of this recipe a day ahead then assemble on the day of serving. Pictured p98 combine. Return to saucepan and cook
over low heat, stirring continuously, until
2 egg yolks 1 Whisk egg yolks, vanilla and sugar just beginning to thicken (3-4 minutes),
½ tsp vanilla extract in a bowl until very pale. Whisk in butter, then remove from heat. Squeeze excess
80 gm caster sugar then stir in combined sifted flour and water from gelatine and stir into custard
80 gm unsalted butter, coarsely chopped baking powder with a pinch of salt and until combined. Strain over chocolate
180 gm gluten-free plain flour mix to form a dough. Turn out dough, and whisk to combine, then gently fold
3/4 tsp gluten-free baking powder shape into a disc and roll between 2 in whipped cream mixture and chill until
6 small figs, quartered or sliced sheets of baking paper to a 26cm round. set (4 hours or overnight).
LEMON VERBENA MOUSSE Transfer, still on paper, to a tray and 4 Meanwhile, for cranberry syrup, bring
150 gm white chocolate, coarsely refrigerate to chill (10 minutes). Grease cranberry juice, sugar and 125ml (½ cup)
chopped a 20cm x 4cm metal ring mould and water to the boil in a small saucepan
200 ml pouring cream, plus 250ml (1 cup) place on an oven tray lined with baking over medium heat, stirring to dissolve
extra, whisked to soft peaks paper. Lift pastry into ring and gently press sugar. Reduce heat to low and simmer
100 gm crème fraîche into base and sides. Trim edge level with until thick and syrupy (10 minutes).
125 ml (1/2 cup) milk top and freeze until firm (15 minutes). Refrigerate to chill (30 minutes)
Finely grated zest of ½ lemon 2 Preheat oven to 180°C. Prick pastry 5 Whisk set mousse to soften then
½ cup lemon verbena leaves (see note), base all over with a fork and blind bake spoon into pastry case. Top with extra
bruised, plus extra sprigs to serve until pastry sets (20 minutes). Remove whipped cream and fig, drizzle with
2 egg yolks paper and weights, and bake until cranberry syrup and sprinkle with
21/2 gold-strength gelatine leaves, golden (12 minutes). Set aside to cool. extra lemon verbena sprigs to serve.
softened in cold water for 3-5 minutes 3 Meanwhile, for mousse, melt Note Lemon verbena is available
CRANBERRY SYRUP chocolate in the microwave in 15-second from nurseries, farmers’ markets and
125 ml (1/2 cup) cranberry juice bursts until beginning to soften. Whisk specialty grocers. ➤
75 gm (⅓ cup) caster sugar
Tart (previous page) Plate from

Studio Enti. Knife stylist’s own.
Lamingtons (previous page)
Plate, vases and cake stand
all from Studio Enti. All other
Fruit mince
crostata
p 104
Macadamia parfait
with poached
pineapple
p 104
“I love the flavour of melon, apple and mint, and I really
wanted to make something using the combination.”
Pistachio, lime and

coconut cream
cake with melon,
apple and mint
p 105
Fruit mince crostata
Heat butter in a frying pan over low
heat, add fruit mixture and cook, stirring
SERVES 8-10 // PREP TIME 1 HR // COOK 45 MINS (PLUS RESTING, CHILLING) occasionally, until liquid has evaporated
(20-25 minutes).Remove from heat, cool
“I use this pastry with sweet and savoury cooking,” says Koludrovic. “And to room temperature and then refrigerate.
sometimes I make it with vegan butter.” The pastry and fruit mince can be 3 Preheat oven to 180°C. Roll pastry
made two days ahead. Crostata can be baked six hours ahead. Pictured p102 between 2 sheets of baking paper to
a 45cm x 35cm rectangle, 3mm thick.
2 eggs 40 gm brown sugar Trim to make a 40cm x 20cm rectangle,
1½ tsp apple cider vinegar 35 gm dried apricots, coarsely chopped reserving trimmings. Slide pastry, still
300 gm gluten-free plain flour Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon on paper, onto a large baking tray and
1 tsp xanthan gum (see note) 1 tsp finely grated ginger refrigerate to chill (20 minutes). Reroll
50 gm caster sugar ¼ tsp ground allspice pastry trimmings between sheets of
70 gm almond meal ¼ tsp ground cardamom baking paper to 3mm thick and cut
200 gm chilled unsalted butter, coarsely ½ tsp ground cinnamon 34 stars with a 4cm star cutter. Spoon
chopped 25 gm unsalted butter fruit mixture evenly over pastry leaving
1 eggwhite a 3cm-4cm border. Fold pastry edges
2 tbsp raw sugar 1 Whisk eggs and vinegar in a bowl until over filling and brush with eggwhite.
Grated nutmeg and icing sugar, frothy. Sift combined flour, xanthan gum Decorate border with pastry stars, brush
for dusting and 1 tsp salt into another bowl, then stir with more eggwhite, sprinkle with raw
Cream, ice-cream or brandy custard, in sugar and almond meal. Rub butter sugar and bake until golden (25 minutes).
to serve into flour mixture until a fine crumb, then 4 Dust crostata with nutmeg and icing
FRUIT MINCE add egg mixture and combine to form sugar. Brush fruit mixture with extra
1 green apple a dough. Shape into a flat rectangle, marmalade to glaze and serve with
250 ml (1 cup) sparkling wine cover and refrigerate to chill (1-2 hours). cream, ice-cream or brandy custard.
110 gm golden raisins 2 For fruit mince, grate unpeeled apple Note Xanthan gum is available from
85 gm (¼ cup) orange marmalade, and squeeze to remove excess moisture. select supermarkets or online from
plus extra, warm, to serve Combine apple with remaining The Essential Ingredient
60 gm dried cranberries ingredients, except butter, in a bowl. (theessentialingredient.com.au).
increased in volume (8 minutes). Increase
Macadamia parfait with pineapple, speed and beat until thickened like
meringue (4 minutes). Add sugar and
ginger and finger lime cream of tartar and whisk until stiff and
SERVES 8-10 // PREP TIME 1 HR // COOK 15 MINS (PLUS CHILLING, FREEZING) glossy (4 minutes). Fold aquafaba mixture
into coconut cream mixture in 2 batches,
“Chickpea water is great for making aerated vegan dishes,” says Koludrovic. then fold in half of the macadamias.
Start this recipe at least a day ahead. Pictured p102 Spoon into prepared pan and freeze
until firm (4 hours or overnight).
450 ml coconut cream, well shaken, 1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped 3 For poached pineapple, combine
chilled at least 4 hours Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime sugar, ginger, vanilla bean and seeds,
100 gm macadamia or almond butter 1 small ripe pineapple, thinly sliced lime zest and juice, and 600ml water
70 ml maple syrup in a saucepan. Stir over low heat to
400 gm can chickpeas 1 Line a 20cm x 11cm x 8cm loaf pan with dissolve sugar (2 minutes), then pour
100 gm caster sugar baking paper and place in freezer. Whisk syrup over sliced pineapple in a bowl
Pinch of cream of tartar coconut cream, butter and maple syrup and refrigerate to chill (2 hours).
140 gm macadamias, toasted, coarsely in a bowl to combine, refrigerate to chill. 4 To serve, cut parfait into squares, top
chopped 2 Drain chickpeas, reserving 125ml with pineapple and syrup, and top with
2 finger limes, pearls removed (½ cup) liquid (aquafaba; see note). remaining nuts and finger lime pearls.
POACHED PINEAPPLE Reserve chickpeas for another use. Note Aquafaba is the water in a can of
300 gm caster sugar Whisk aquafaba in the bowl of an electric chickpeas. It can be used as a substitute
15 gm (3cm piece) ginger, thinly sliced mixer on medium speed until frothy and for egg in many vegan dishes.
coconut cream in an electric mixer
until smooth, then refrigerate.
Pistachio, lime and coconut cream cake 2 Meanwhile, preheat oven to 180°C.
with melon, apple and mint

Grease and line a 22cm springform tin
with baking paper (see note). Sift icing
SERVES 8-10 // PREP TIME 1 HR // COOK 45 MINS (PLUS SETTING, CHILLING) sugar, flour and baking powder into
a bowl, stir in almond meal, pistachio
“I love the flavour of melon, apple and mint, and I really wanted to make something and ½ tsp sea salt flakes. Whisk
using the combination,” says Koludrovic. “This is a showstopper!” The cake and coconut eggwhites in the bowl of an electric
cream can be made up to two days ahead and stored separately. Pictured p103 mixer until frothy, then gradually sprinkle
in sugar, whisking continuously until
335 gm pure icing sugar 1 tsp vanilla bean paste sugar dissolves and mixture is thick
50 gm gluten-free plain flour Finely grated zest and juice of 2 limes and glossy. Gently fold in flour mixture.
¾ tsp gluten-free baking powder 4 gold-strength gelatine leaves, Spoon a third of the mixture into
135 gm almond meal softened in cold water for 3-5 prepared tin, smooth top and bake
110 gm pistachio nuts, finely chopped, minutes until a smooth golden crust forms (the
plus 2 tbsp extra to serve inside will still be chewy; 12-15 minutes).
6 eggwhites, at room temperature 1 For coconut cream, bring coconut Set aside to cool (10 minutes), then
110 gm (½ cup) caster sugar cream, sugar, vanilla and half the lime remove cake from tin and cool on
½ honeydew melon, deseeded, peeled zest to the boil in a saucepan over a wire rack. Repeat twice more with
1 Granny Smith apple medium heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. remaining mixture to make 3 cakes.
½ cup small mint leaves Squeeze excess water from gelatine and 3 Meanwhile, slice the melon and apple
COCONUT CREAM whisk into coconut mixture to combine. into 3mm slices on a mandolin or with
900 ml coconut cream Strain into a bowl and refrigerate to chill a peeler. Toss apple with remaining lime
30 gm caster sugar (4 hours or overnight). Whisk chilled zest and the juice in a bowl to combine.
4 To assemble, whisk coconut cream
until smooth, then spread one third over
1 cake. Top with a third of the melon,
apple and mint. Place another cake
on top and repeat with another third
of the cream, melon, apple and mint.
Place remaining cake on top and
spread with remaining cream. Cover
cake and refrigerate to firm (1-2 hours).
5 To serve, top cake with remaining
melon, apple and mint, and scatter
with extra chopped pistachio.
Note If you have multiple tins, bake two
cakes at a time, swapping tins between
shelves halfway through baking. ➤
Table setting Plates, vase

and jug from Studio Enti.
All other props stylist’s own.
Almond milk jelly with prosecco-poached peach
and almond crumb
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 1 HR // COOK 20 MINS (PLUS INFUSING, FREEZING, SETTING)
“This has a clean flavour that you can’t really get unless you make it yourself,” says Koludrovic.
“It’s a nice way to finish a dinner.” Start this recipe one day ahead to soak the almonds. Serve
in individual glasses or as a large dessert in a two-litre serving dish.
320 gm (2 cups) almond kernels dish or tray and freeze until firm
½ tsp vanilla bean paste (4 hours or overnight).
100 gm caster sugar 3 The next day, drain almonds and
4 gold-strength gelatine leaves, rinse well. Blend in a high-speed blender
softened in cold water for 3-5 with 750ml (3 cups) water until very
minutes smooth. Strain through a sieve lined with
POACHED PEACH AND GRANITA a wet dishcloth or nut bag, squeezing
Thinly peeled zest and juice to extract all the liquid; you will need
of 1 orange 680ml (see note). Combine almond milk,
500 ml (2 cups) prosecco vanilla and sugar in a saucepan over
110 gm (½ cup) caster sugar medium heat, stirring to dissolve sugar
3 peaches, halved, destoned and bring to a simmer. Remove from
Juice of 1 lemon heat. Squeeze excess water from
½ vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped gelatine, add to milk mixture and mix
ALMOND CRUMB well. Strain into a jug, then pour into
25 gm gluten-free plain flour 6 serving glasses and refrigerate to
45 gm almond meal chill and set (4 hours or overnight).
1 tbsp caster sugar 4 Meanwhile, for almond crumb, preheat
1 tbsp raw sugar oven to 170°C. Combine all ingredients,
1 tbsp almond kernels, roasted, except butter, with 1 tsp salt in a bowl.
coarsely chopped Rub in butter to form rough crumbs.
30 gm cold dairy-free butter, Spread over a baking tray and bake,
coarsely chopped stirring occasionally, until light golden
(10-12 minutes). Set aside to cool.
1 Combine almonds with 750ml (3 cups) 5 Shave granita with a fork and
water in a large bowl and soak overnight. return to freezer. Serve jellies topped
2 Meanwhile, for poached peach and with poached peaches, granita and
granita, stir orange juice, prosecco, sugar almond crumb.
and 300ml water in large saucepan over Note If you don’t have enough liquid
medium heat to dissolve sugar. Add from the almonds, blend the squeezed
peaches, bring to a simmer then cover almond paste again with some extra
directly with baking paper and simmer water. To make this recipe vegan, replace
until just tender (6-8 minutes). Remove gelatine leaves with agar agar. ●
from heat and set aside to cool. Peel
peaches (discard skin), transfer to a bowl
and refrigerate to chill. Stir lemon juice
into poaching liquid, strain into a shallow
“This has a clean flavour
that you can’t really get
unless you make it
yourself, and it’s a nice
way to finish a dinner.”
F l avo u r
In his new cookbook Africola, chef DUNCAN
WELGEMOED shares bold and exciting recipes
inspired by his South African heritage.
Raw fish
p111
Photography SIMON BAJADA
Recipes and words DUNCAN WELGEMOED

f o r wa r d
Parsnips and
buttermilk
p 112
Oyster cream and
potato chips
M
y love for food and cooking stems from
my childhood, growing up in Norwood,
Northern Johannesburg, during the
transition of power from the all-white
National Party to Mandela’s African National Congress.
An exciting and terrifying time to be alive.
Living life in Norwood, a predominantly Jewish
neighbourhood, was integral to my passion for food and
cooking. I was surrounded by the best Jewish delis and
bakeries, punctuated with stellar Greek and Italian joints
and, most importantly, Portuguese pubs and corner stores.
I grew up as an only child within a South African
family. My mother Gail, a patient and formidable woman,
was an expat from Scotland. Her biggest influence on me
wasn’t so much culinary, but openness and acceptance.
My late father, an incredible man with a large
personality, was equally feared and loved. He was an
ex-chef who was consumed by Portuguese and traditional
Southern African cuisine. He was the man who
introduced me to the simple joys of pan drippings and
bread, eating fish off the barbecue, two-day-old curry,
the pope’s nose off a freshly roasted chicken, and gave
me my wonderful, lustrous curls. He had the biggest
impact on my life through his hedonistic pursuits.
After moving to Adelaide, having been headhunted
by the mother of my children (who still demands a
finders fee; Australia!), Cath showed me why it is the
best city in the world. I’d still be cooking in basement
kitchens in England if it wasn’t for her pig-headedness
in proclaiming Australia as God’s country, her support
and her being the finest of mothers to my two little
boys. For that I am truly forever grateful. Alas, my
one regret in life is having never had the chance to cook
professionally for my father. It’s deeply affected me since
his death in 2010. To remedy this, I wanted to create
a legacy restaurant that my children could enjoy. Where
they could experience my childhood, glimpses of my father
shining through my food, a family tree rooted in the gut.
Cos hearts and green Raw fish
goddess dressing SERVES 2
SERVES 2
“This is an excellent dish to prepare
when it’s sweltering hot and you can’t be
“This salad can be whipped up in less
arsed eating, let alone cooking anything,”
than 10 minutes and be on the table
says Welgemoed. Pictured p108
before the parmesan hits the spaghetti
sauce,” says Duncan Welgemoed.
85 gm white fish fillet (such as snapper,
½ avocado kingfish or cobia), bloodline removed
2 tbsp mayonnaise 60 ml (¼ cup) lime juice
2 tbsp chopped chervil, 3 red Asian shallots, sliced
plus ¼ cup whole leaves 2 lemongrass stems, trimmed and
1 tbsp chopped chives finely sliced
1 small French shallot, chopped 1 handful each of mint and holy basil
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil leaves, torn not chopped
2 baby cos lettuce hearts 5 bird’s eye chillies, halved, seeded
and sliced
1 Blend avocado, mayonnaise, chervil, 2 tbsp fish sauce
chives, shallot, olive oil and 60 ml (¼ cup) 2 tbsp coconut cream
water until smooth; season to taste.
2 Quarter lettuce hearts lengthways, 1 Slice fish fillet in half lengthways down
arrange on a platter, then drizzle with the centre, then slice finely crossways.
dressing. Scatter with extra chervil. 2 Combine a generous pinch of salt and
lime juice in a bowl, add fish and mix
well. Set aside to cure (3-4 minutes).
Oyster cream and 3 Combine with remaining ingredients
and finish with coconut cream. ➤
potato chips
SERVES 2
“The ultimate chips and dip. Serve this

to your friends at the next big game
“I was surrounded
day,” says Welgemoed. by the best Jewish
delis and bakeries,
10 oysters, shucked and juices reserved
punctuated with
Juice of 2 lemons
250 ml (1 cup) rapeseed oil stellar Greek and
Your favourite potato chips Italian joints and,
(preferably salt and vinegar) most importantly,
A giant lump of caviar
Portuguese pubs
1 Put oysters, their juices and lemon and corner stores.”
juice into a blender and blend until
Cos hearts and green smooth. Slowly add oil until the mixture
goddess dressing starts to thicken, as you would making
a mayonnaise. Season with a little sea
salt and heaps of white pepper. Serve
with chips and a giant lump of caviar.
Parsnips and 1 Heat half the butter and 2 tbsp of the
oil in a large saucepan over medium-low
buttermilk heat. Add onion and 1 tsp salt and cook,
SERVES 4 stirring, until caramelised and golden
(15 minutes). Add spice mix and garlic and
“The buttermilk in this recipe is a little cook, stirring, until fragrant (2-3 minutes).
nod to the ‘Beach Jesus’ of Australian Add stock, cardamom and star anise and
cuisine, David Moyle,” says Welgemoed. increase heat to medium. Simmer until
“He loves only three things in life: reduced by half (15 minutes).
saltbush, buttermilk and putting both 2 Whisk buttermilk and flour together in
those things on skewers. Thank you a bowl. Strain onion mixture, discarding
for the inspiration, mate.” Pictured p109 solids. Return liquid to a clean saucepan
The world’s greatest and place over low heat. Whisk in
roast potatoes 100 gm (⅓ cup) unsalted butter buttermilk mixture and cook, stirring
60 ml (¼ cup) olive oil constantly, until thickened (20 minutes).
2 onions, thinly sliced Season to taste and set aside.
2 tbsp biryani spice mix (see note) 3 Preheat oven to 180°C.
1 garlic clove, chopped 4 Melt remaining butter and oil in an
500 ml (2 cups) vegetable stock ovenproof frying pan over medium heat.
4 cardamom pods Add parsnips, cut-side down, and cook
3 star anise until golden (5 minutes). Turn and cook
600 ml (2⅓ cups) buttermilk until deep golden (2 minutes). Pour
50 gm (⅓ cup) plain flour honey over parsnips and add rosemary
1 kg parsnips, peeled and halved to pan. Transfer to oven and cook until
lengthways cooked through (15 minutes).
115 gm (⅓ cup) honey 5 Gently reheat buttermilk sauce. Spoon
12 large sprigs of rosemary onto a plate and top with parsnips. Drizzle
over any pan juices and rosemary.
Note Biryani spice mix is available from
select supermarkets.
The world’s greatest

roast potatoes for 1 Preheat oven to 200°C.
2 Boil potatoes until just soft
total idiots (10 minutes).
SERVES 4 3 Add fat to a heavy-based saucepan
and heat over high, then add potatoes
“As it says on the packet – you can’t flat-side down and cook until golden and
fuck this one up. If you do, please tag crisp on all sides. Don’t burn yourself
me in all the photos,” says Welgemoed. or set fire to your house.
4 Transfer crisp potatoes to a baking
1.5 kg good roasting potatoes with little tray, drizzle with a little warmed fat and
starch, like Diane, or large Kipfler sprinkle with paprika, thyme leaves,
potatoes, peeled, cut in half and garlic, sea salt and black pepper. Roast,
washed until the excess starch is tossing occasionally, until super crisp
rinsed off and the water is clear and dried out a little (20 minutes). The
200 gm rendered pork fat or lard centre will be like mash potato and
50 gm paprika pretty much the best vehicle ever for
5 sprigs of thyme, leaves picked all kinds of sauces, gravies, meat juices,
10 garlic cloves, crushed in their skins whatever – all of it.
“One of the best salads around. Don’t be
mean with the Sichuan oil though – the
labneh will take a lot of the spice.”
Smashed cucumber
salad with toasted
chilli oil
SERVES 2
“One of the best salads around. Don’t

be mean with the Sichuan oil though
– the labneh will take a lot of the spice,
so you’re left with that gentle numbing
on your tongue,” says Welgemoed.
1 large cucumber or 2 Lebanese

cucumbers (about 300gm)
2 tsp finely chopped pickled chillies
2 small garlic cloves, finely chopped
60 ml (¼ cup) clear rice vinegar,
or to taste
Pinch of sugar
1 tbsp Sichuan chilli oil
1 tsp sesame oil
2 tbsp labneh or 6 tbsp Greek yoghurt,
drained of excess moisture
1 tsp toasted black and white
sesame seeds
1 Place cucumber on a chopping

board and whack it gently with a cleaver
a few times until it splinters and opens
up with jagged edges. Cut it into
bite-sized pieces and place in a bowl.
Sprinkle with ½ tsp sea salt and leave
for 15-20 minutes, then drain and place
the cucumber in a bowl.
2 For dressing, place chillies, garlic,
vinegar, sugar and a pinch of salt in
a small bowl. Stir in chilli and sesame
oils and labneh.
3 To serve, pour dressing over cucumber
and garnish with sesame seeds. ●
This extract from Africola

by Duncan Welgemoed
(Murdoch Books; $49.99)
has been reproduced with
minor GT style edits.
Fig and goat’s
curd salad with
smoky paprika
vinaigrette
p 117
w cookbook A l wa
SEASON’S GREETINGS
r ne
In he ys Ad
dL
em Citrus with Meyer
on lemon dressing
, and shaved fennel
ch
ef
117
DA
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IE
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E AL
VAREZ celebrates fres
,s h
e aso
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ce
.
Photography BENITO MARTIN

Styling JESSICA JOHNSON
C
ooking was never what
I set out to do in life. I had
a lucky but pretty normal
upbringing: middle class in
Miami, Florida, two amazing parents,
siblings, a good education and not too
many worries. Maybe the not-so normal
part was the focus on food and cooking.
My family is Cuban. Everything was
centred around what meal was being
made when, and even before one meal
was finished, the next was simmering
away. Ours was the kind of family that
would spend an entire day roasting
a suckling pig, only to start talking
about how to use the leftovers before
it had even been served.
I realised that it wasn’t the
simplified, from a tin, 15-minute
meal that made me fall in love with
cooking. It was the all-day, overnight,
sourced from the farmers’ market,
made-from-scratch kind of cooking
that enchanted me. I love the suspense
and transformation and, ultimately,
the reward when you braise a piece
of meat in the oven for hours.
But what I probably love most
is cooking for others. The look of
happiness on people’s faces when
they taste something delicious is an
indescribable feeling. Food can make
us happy and it can also be the great
unifier. It stops us in our tracks and
forces us to pause, no matter the
culture, background, religion or
history – we all need this.
Fig and goat’s curd salad
with smoky paprika vinaigrette
SERVES 4
“Figs with a bit of olive oil and salt are pretty perfect on their own, but
if you wanted to go one step further, the combination of sweet figs and
smoky dressing is an excellent one,” says Danielle Alvarez. Pictured p114
8 ripe figs Add olive oil and shake again. This

12 large rocket leaves can be made ahead of time, but no
150 gm fresh goat’s curd more than a few hours as the raw
70 gm toasted almonds garlic tends to change over time and
VINAIGRETTE becomes stronger and sweeter.
20 ml sherry vinegar 2 Tear open figs at the centre and
20 ml white-wine vinegar arrange on a platter with rocket and
½ garlic clove goat’s curd crumbled around. Shake
1½ tsp pimentón de La Vera dulce vinaigrette just before drizzling enough
(see note), or smoked paprika over to lightly coat. Scatter toasted
100 ml extra-virgin olive oil almonds over the top and finish with
a sprinkle of salt. Serve immediately.
1 To make vinaigrette, combine vinegars Note Pimentón de La Vera, a smoked
in a jar and grate in garlic. Add pimentón paprika from the La Vera valley in Spain,
and a pinch of salt and shake to combine. is available from specialty spice stores.
Citrus with Meyer lemon dressing

and shaved fennel
SERVES 4
“The dressing for this salad was something I learnt on one of my first days
at Chez Panisse,” says Alvarez. Pictured p115
1 red-fleshed navel orange from top to bottom, following the

1 blood orange natural curve of the citrus, to remove
1 grapefruit all white pith. Do this for everything
1 navel orange except the kumquats, which you eat
1 tangelo whole, skin and all. Slice all citrus
3 kumquats about 8mm thick, but the kumquat as
1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced thin as you can. Pick out any seeds.
on a mandoline 2 To make dressing, mix shallot and
DRESSING diced Meyer lemon and juice with
30 gm diced shallot 1 tsp salt, then set aside to macerate
1 whole Meyer lemon, cut into tiny (15 minutes). Whisk in olive oil and set
dice, seeds removed and juice from aside. This should be made the day
the lemon core squeezed over the you want to serve it.
lemon dice 3 To assemble, cover the bottom
40 ml extra-virgin olive oil of a serving plate with citrus, fanning
the rest out on top so you see all the
1 Using a sharp knife, carefully cut colours. Sprinkle over sliced fennel
tops and bottoms from citrus and lay and a pinch of salt, then drizzle over
them flat on a chopping board. Cut dressing. Serve immediately. ➤
Radish with preserved
lemon, feta, mint and
sesame
SERVES 4
“No longer relegated to being just the Pork, duck and pistachio terrine
colourful add-on to a lettuce salad, here,
MAKES 1 TERRINE
radish is centre stage,” says Alvarez.
Pictured p116 “Don’t cut any corners, start with great fresh ingredients and you’ll have a beautiful
and professional-looking terrine,” says Alvarez. “I like to serve this with grilled bread
½ preserved lemon, rinsed and pith and fruit chutney, or with frisée lettuce and a mustardy dressing.”
scooped out and discarded
Juice of 1 lemon 3 tbsp duck fat flour in a bowl and whisk, then push
80 ml (⅓ cup) olive oil 120 gm finely diced onion through a fine-mesh sieve to remove
6 round pink or red radishes, washed 1 bay leaf, plus 3-4 extra to decorate any lumps. Combine with remaining
3 medium watermelon radishes, 3 thyme sprigs, on the stem ingredients, except additional bay
peeled and washed 40 thin slices pancetta or lardo leaves, and 1/2 tsp spice mix in a large
2 medium purple daikon, 1 egg mixing bowl. It’s important that you whip
peeled and washed 100 ml cream the ingredients together using your
60 ml (¼ cup) crème fraîche, 50 ml cognac or Armagnac hands or a stiff spatula, as this is what
loosened with a splash of water 18 gm plain flour makes the terrine stick together and not
or cream for drizzling 850 gm coarsley minced fatty pork fall apart when sliced. Pour finished mix
2 tsp unhulled sesame seeds 10 gm finely chopped flat-leaf parsley into lined terrine. Wrap overhanging
1 bunch mint, leaves picked 200 gm duck livers, cleaned and pancetta over the top, arrange bay
1 tbsp snipped chives roughly chopped leaves on top and cover the whole
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper terrine with aluminium foil. Place terrine
1 Chop preserved lemon very finely, 2½ tsp fine salt in a deep roasting tin and pour in
almost to a paste, and place in a jar ⅛ tsp curing salt for cooked goods enough water to come halfway up the
or bowl with lemon juice and olive oil. (see note) side of the terrine. Bake until internal
Mix and set aside. 70 gm toasted pistachios temperature reads 57-59°C on a cooking
2 Slice radishes and daikon fairly SPICE MIX thermometer. Remove from oven and
thin on a mandoline, then arrange on 3 gm each ground ginger water bath and allow to cool until warm.
a serving platter. Pour over dressing, and ground coriander 5 Cut a piece of cardboard the same
drizzle with crème fraîche and scatter 4 gm each ground cloves size as the top of the terrine, then wrap
over sesame seeds, mint and chives. and ground nutmeg in foil. Place on top of terrine and
Season with salt and a bit of black 5 gm ground cinnamon refrigerate overnight with a heavy pan
pepper and serve immediately. 10 gm white pepper or oil bottle on top, weighing it down.
6 The following day, remove weight
1 For spice mix, combine spices and and drop terrine into a shallow tray with
store in an airtight jar. This recipe makes boiling water to release it from the sides.
more than you need for this terrine. Run a thin sharp knife around edges and
2 Heat duck fat in a frying pan over gently pop terrine out. Serve slices with
low heat and fry onion with bay leaf toasted bread and fruit chutney, or with
and thyme until soft but not coloured. a frisée or chicory salad and a sharp
Set aside to cool completely. mustardy dressing. Terrine can be kept
3 Line a 1.5 litre (6 cup) capacity terrine in the fridge for up to 1 week.
mould with overlapping slices of pancetta. Note Curing salt, generally a mixture
Leave slices hanging over the side so of table salt and sodium nitrite, is used
you can wrap them around the finished for preserving meats. It is available from
terrine. Preheat the oven to 150°C. specialty stores or online from Smoked
4 Combine egg, cream, cognac and & Cured (smokedandcured.com.au). ➤
This extract from Always Add
Lemon by Danielle Alvarez
(Hardie Grant Books; $50)
has been reproduced with
minor GT style edits.
Zucchini with mint,
lemon and bottarga
SERVES 4
“I love summer produce but I hate

to ‘cook’ in summer; it’s too hot to
be cooped up in a kitchen. This is
when I turn to salads,” says Alvarez.
“Next to some grilled fish or poached
prawns, this salad is perfect.”
2-4 large green or yellow zucchini,

or any mixture of summer squash
Juice of 1 lemon
1 bunch picked mint leaves
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Bottarga (see note), for grating
1 Shave zucchini thinly on a mandoline,

lengthways or into rounds – whatever
you prefer. Place in a large bowl and
squeeze over half of the lemon juice.
Sprinkle with salt and pepper and give
it a taste. If the zucchini tastes well
seasoned and has the brightness of the
lemon, it’s ready to serve. If it’s a bit dull, “I love summer produce
add a little more salt and lemon juice.
but I hate to ‘cook’ in
2 Arrange zucchini on a serving platter.
Add picked mint leaves and drizzle summer; it’s too hot
liberally with olive oil. Grate bottarga to be cooped up in
over the top and add one last squeeze a kitchen. This is when
of lemon and a crack of black pepper.
Taste and adjust seasoning if needed,
I turn to salads.”
but bear in mind that the salty bottarga
is part of your seasoning.
Note Bottarga is salted and dried
mullet roe. It is available from select
fishmongers and delicatessens. ●
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TRAVEL
DECEMBER
Hit the road

The secrets to a successful road trip, island-hopping in
Tasmania, checking in to Adelaide’s newest hotel, and
collecting Christmas traditions from travels abroad.
The essential
guide to road
tripping
PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES.
p 137
The art of...
collecting traditions
When it comes to Christmas traditions,
the more, the merrier, says ANNA HART.
The art of travel
I
’ve never understood travellers who are I’ve come to cherish Thanksgiving as a sort of
hell-bent on returning with souvenirs, pressure valve to spare Christmas from meltdown.
like strange ceramics or wooden carvings. With a similar menu, a similar emphasis on
The best thing you can cart home from meeting with family and similarly twee jumpers,
a trip abroad is a brand new tradition. During Thanksgiving really takes the pressure off poor
my travels over the years, I’ve imported countless old Christmas. As a duo, separated by just four
ideas to inflict on unsuspecting friends and weeks, Thanksgiving and Christmas work great;
family, and exotic new rituals to insert into no single day should have to shoulder this sort
my everyday routine. of burden of sentimentality alone.
Even during these strange lockdown days, Come to think of it, most of my favourite
my life is crammed with purloined practices and Christmas traditions involve (a) food and (b)
appropriated habits that I’ve boldly stuffed in my stringing Christmas out. The Philippines has the
suitcase on the way home from adventures abroad; longest and most lavish Christmas celebration
my schedule is a morally questionable British I’ve ever experienced, with nationwide light
Museum of pillaged traditions. The morning begins displays, parades and music festivals stretching
with me whisking up a matcha green tea, as I learned from October until the end of January. In the
to do in Osaka, Japan, and only cheat and use Philippines, Christmas isn’t just for Christmas.
a Nutribullet rather than a wooden whisk if I’m really Why not extend the celebrations out a bit?
pushed for time, okay? And in the evening, I wrap Why not get the decorations up early so that
up my day by wandering down to watch the sunset we can enjoy them for longer? Why not have
after dinner, with the Croatian term for a post- an extravagant cheeseboard every Sunday in
dinner stroll in mind, the “corso”. summer? It’s not a real Christmas
It was my time in Auckland, Christmas without a few “sure, why not?”
a city with one of the most robust
traditions, naturally, moments, is it?
breakfast cultures in the world, In Sweden, Christmas Eve
that gave me a preference for make for even is the main event, with family
a power breakfast over a lunch or richer pickings and friends gathering for an
dinner gathering; I’m still grateful for the culturally early evening Julafton meal, with
for this deft social strategy that Christmas itself devoted to simple
frees me of my civic duties by curious smörgåsbord fare. This is a more
11am. In Sweden, I picked up the kleptomaniac. relaxed way of doing things than
practice of “fika”, a substantial in Britain, where the entire holiday
snack with coffee, which I far prefer to the pivots around a turkey coming out of the oven at
boring old British afternoon tea, or elevenses. just the right moment on Christmas Day.
Beyond culinary embellishments and sly When I lived in New Zealand, I became
social strategising, the traditions I’ve picked up attached to the idea of spending Boxing Day
abroad stretch from lofty philosophical concepts on a beach, and even when I’m in London,
(like the Japanese design aesthetic of “wabi-sabi” I try to get out for a blustery beach walk. This
or finding the beauty in imperfection) to practical is a Kiwi Christmas tradition that has survived
domestic customs, such as the German reverse seasonality.
“stosslüfte”, (which specifically describes the I studied in Scotland, where Hogmanay is the
practice of opening the windows of one’s home main event; Christmas is really just about lining
ILLUSTRATION GETTY IMAGES.
briefly to allow fresh air in, without allowing your stomach. I still bring this Scottish spirit to
Anna is a travel the home itself to get cold). Germany is full my New Year’s Eve celebrations.
and lifestyle of brilliant, meticulously detailed traditions, Every time I spend Christmas abroad, or with
journalist, and all with a single word that describe them. people from a different culture, I find a new tradition,
author of the
travel memoir
Christmas traditions, naturally, make for a new bauble to add to my Christmas tree. I know
Departures. even richer pickings for the culturally curious I do Christmas traditions to excess. But Christmas
@annadothart kleptomaniac. I have family in California, and is the one time of year when excess is acceptable. ●
TREASURE
ISLANDS
Overseas travel just got local and

jet lag-free, writes ALICE HANSEN,

as she explores Tasmania’s offshore isles.
O
n a wild island in Bass Strait, Aaron Suine’s dark dreamily falling into a king-sized bed. But not before
curls blow lightly in the breeze. He’s waiting. Just a private wildlife show, as Kittawa’s outdoor lights
for us. From the moment he opens each car door, illuminate young joeys flitting from pouches and lifting
we’re enveloped into the Kittawa way. It’s not simply about curious paws to our glass.
staying on a ruggedly handsome coastline, but a feeling. Come morning we’re swept into world-class golf territory
Owners Suine and Nick Stead have mastered understated with a visit to Cape Wickham, ranked Australia’s top public
luxury. It’s felt in the small moments; floor-to- ceiling views access course. We soak up all the drama of King’s northern
of the wild landscape paired with handwritten notes and tip, where 18 holes hug the wild shores.
freshly baked treats, or the buttery tenderness of sous-vide Later, we drop in to see Portuguese-born Ana Pimenta
King Island eye fillet at dinner. who runs Meat Your Beef farm tours with her husband
Kittawa Lodge is perched on 96 acres of untouched on their 2000-acre property. In a place where some of the
landscape, where the Roaring Forties winds sweep in the world’s best beef is raised, we find ourselves standing in
world’s freshest air. It’s impossible not to breathe deeply a paddock with more than 200 stunners, all gazing our way.
on our sunset tour. The red-necked wallabies raise curious And yes, you can meet and then eat. Or meet and pat.
heads, as if well-manicured staff hired to welcome guests. As night falls, we meet some of the island’s original
Fully off-grid, Kittawa is a blend of intimate nature and isolationists at the famed Boathouse, coined the “restaurant
attentive hospitality – akin to the acclaimed luxury lodge with no food”. The locals have gathered a rip-roaring group
Saffire Freycinet. of friends to share a long table feast of lobster, beef and
“We just knew this land was for us,” says former lawyer spirits made by Heidi Weitjens of King Island Distillery,
Suine, who moved with husband Stead, an organisational who happily tells us she was made here, too. Between
psychologist. “Our dream was to leave our corporate Sydney bellows of laughter, we are shown the beating heart of an
lives and raise our son Abraham in a wild landscape.” island connected by old-fashioned community.
We venture back into our light-filled architectural Just when we thought Kittawa couldn’t surprise us
cocoon. “I’ll be back at 8 to serve you dinner,” says Suine, more, we’re scooped up by Suine to a secret picnic location
disappearing into the evening breeze. Our only task? To fill overlooking Fitzmaurice Bay. Local brie, King Island Cloud
the oversized tub and sink deeply into the bespoke scent of Juice, olives, walnuts, and breathtaking views converge to
buddah wood and kunzea salts prepared for Kittawa. As if create picnic perfection. We venture further south in our
bundled onto nature’s stage by our hosts, two wallabies 4WD to the spectacular microcosm of Seal Rocks State
enter the picture-perfect frame. Sunset heroes. Reserve and the mind-bending calcified forest. This forest
What follows are four courses (opt for the signature has never had trees but that’s another story.
package), served with Italian gusto courtesy of Suine’s As a final stop, we drop into King Island Arts and
heritage, in our lodge. It’s room service of the finest order. Cultural Centre to collect rustic mugs and art – a little
Tasmanian salmon carpaccio – lightly cured in local lemon, King to take home and remember the Kittawa way.
honey and thyme – is followed by gnocchi with King Island
beef ragù, then eye fillet with roast pumpkin purée, and wild
rocket and watercress plucked from the property. Laughter
and Premium Arras Grand Vintage sparkling flow easily,
with flourless chocolate torte the finishing touch, before
Kittawa Lodge is set on 96 acres of wild landscape

in King Island. Opposite: King Island crayfish.
PREVIOUS PAGES: Kittawa Lodge owners Aaron
Suine and Nick Stead with their son, Abraham.
EAT
The Boathouse
The “restaurant with no food” is open to all; just pack
a picnic or pick up the makings for a gourmet barbecue
KING ISLAND from the island’s various producers. Its vibrancy is credit
to artist Caroline Kininmonth who first laid eyes on it
when swimming in Currie Harbour and camping nearby.
38 Lighthouse St, Currie.
Wild Harvest
Straight from the ocean or paddock to your plate, Wild
Harvest serves up broad Bass Strait views, a roaring
open fire and the latest catch from abalone to oysters
to crayfish. wildharvestkingisland.com.au
STAY
Kittawa Lodge
Wrap yourself in understated luxury in 96 acres of
solitude. Choose from in-house dining to a host of island
experiences as part of your stay. Priced from $680
(per lodge) per night, kittawalodge.com
Porky Beach Retreat

Sunset over the grand Southern Ocean is next level
at this thoughtfully designed retreat. Prices from $750
per night, kingislandescapes.com.au ➤
Getting
there
King Island is an easy
30-minute flight from
Melbourne and
currently Sharp
Airline flights depart
from Hobart,
Launceston and
Wynyard in
Tasmania. Adam
from King Island Car
Rental will have you
sorted on arrival.
FLINDERS ISLAND Getting
there
Sharp Airlines depart

from Melbourne
and Tasmania.
Or schedule your
own flight from
Bridport Airport with
Flinders Island
Aviation & Unique
Charters.
J
o Youl’s arms are full of Flinders Island bounty. She is where Yeo spends his time, and just next door head
slips off her boots with the type of haste that whispers distiller Tom Ambroz turns out spirits with Flinders’ notes
three toddlers are in tow. Generations go way back of locally smoked peat at the Furneaux Distillery Co.
here; the 1200-hectare Quoin Farm was bought by her As we climb Mount Killiecrankie, it takes just 20
great-grandfather in 1932. minutes before we’re left speechless. A coastline of secret
“Chef Mikey has prepared your dinner – grilled asparagus coves, separated by outcrops topped with fire-orange
with truffled eggs, smoked fish croquettes, line-caught lichen, come into view. We climb a little higher and rock
trevally with lemon and olive oil. Just fire up the barbie. formations, some 350 million years in the making, stop us
For your picnic, there’s wallaby and venison salamis, crusty in our tracks. Hollowed boulders towering four times our
bread, and these breakfast sausages from our farm,” Youl height sit precariously on pointed corners, like giant molars
adds, popping supplies in the Wombat Lodge fridge. “We’re eroded across millennia. It’s like nature’s sculpture park.
moving cattle across to Cape Grim today so I must run.” We continue to climb, quickly running out of words
Then she is gone; lunch and dinner sorted. That’s not to describe nature’s spectacle. For Wineglass Bay lovers,
how the morning of a bushwalk normally begins – with exploring Flinders Island is like Tasmania’s east coast with
delivery of lunch and dinner by esteemed chef Mikey Yeo. the volume and variety turned up. From the 278 metre-high
We had our sights set on Mount Killiecrankie after a morning peak, we can see Youl’s farm sprawled below. I wave; it’s
yoga session and swim overlooking its glowing granite peak. only polite. In these parts, every driver lifts a hand to
All we had to do was pick up our hamper and go. passing traffic.
Like our morning visit from Youl, Flinders Island is full What was supposed to be a two-hour hike takes three.
of the unexpected. Just off the north-east tip of Tasmania, We’re officially on island time. Too full from our farm
Flinders is part of the Furneaux Group, a sprinkling of eggs and bacon, we set off for Stacky’s Bight for a late
52 Bass Strait islands. With just a tick over one thousand lunch. We follow Youl’s self-drawn “pirate map” down
residents, this understated destination is now gaining a grassy highway, dotted with wallabies and surprisingly
serious traction as Australians turn their heads homeward speedy wombats until we trust the rental car to go no
for “overseas” travel. further, continuing by foot until we reach paradise.
But it turns out it’s not the Flinders of old. These days, Stacky’s Bight Beach compels us to kick off our shoes
PHOTOGRAPHY ADAM GIBSON (KILLIECRANKIE BAY) & NESS VANDERBURGH (WOMBAT LODGE, FLINDERS WHARF).
places like The Flinders Wharf mean the foodie experience and venture beneath this limestone arch like film extras
now matches the mighty crays plucked from its waters. This from The Beach. That is, until our toes meet the water. ➤
Killiecrankie Bay, Flinders Island. Opposite, clockwise

from top left: one of the bedrooms at Wombat Lodge;
smoked gummy shark croquettes with wild garlic and
herb pesto and burnt leek ends at Flinders Wharf.
So swept up, we don’t realise it’s just struck 5.15pm
and we’ve yet to have lunch. This island time business really
is a thing. Still, we make time to search for Killiecrankie
Diamonds (a semi-precious topaz) at the far end of
Killiecrankie Beach. I pop three miniscule specimens in
my pocket to take back to a jeweller friend who I suspect EAT
The Flinders Wharf & Furneaux Distillery Co.
will laugh at my diamond hopefuls. Then again, Flinders Perched by the seaside, this is where to feast on locally
is full of surprises. Like sitting atop Mount Strzelecki with raised beef and lamb and crays straight off the boat. Slip
locals who have just launched the Walk Flinders Island next door to visit whisky-making Tom in the distillery and
outfit, savouring energy bites of dried peach, pear and soak up the warm community goodness.
apple from the Trousers Point orchard below. 16 Esplanade, Whitemark, theflinderswharf.com.au
Days later, somewhere between the most flavoursome
Flinders Island Condimental
beef pie on the planet at Condimental and a foraging
Unassuming and gloriously flavoursome, enter Jon and
excursion discovering the joys of ice plant, beach mustard Alison Hizzard’s delicious world of crusty pies and fresh
and noon flower with Yeo, I realise my tiny stones are still produce transformed into bottles of flavour-packed
in my pocket. condiments. 3 Bowman St, Whitemark.
“Take them into Sandro,” suggests Yeo, pointing metres
from our ice plant. I push open the door of his seaside Cate Cooks
workshop and the goldsmith looks closely at my tiny pebble. This sweet little roadside tuckshop brims with specialty
cakes, grab-and-go bites, fresh juices and stellar coffee
He’s quiet and squints through his magnifying glass.
just right to prep for a Flinders day of adventure.
Silence follows. 3 Walker St, Whitemark, facebook.com/flindersislandchef
“Yep, you have yourself a diamond,” he announces.
For a moment I feel drenched in wealth. Turns out it’s STAY
nothing to declare through customs at the Lady Barron Wombat Lodge
airstrip, and may not cover my next island latte, but it’s This luxe-style burrow tunes guests into island time with
its deep bath, crackling fire and lush farm surrounds.
an experience so rich I tuck it into my pocket, a precious
Quoin Farm, 3951 Palana Rd, Killiecrankie,
treasure never to be forgotten. onislandtime.com.au
Killiecrankie Beach House

Front row seats to the beach and Mount Killiecrankie
come standard with this stay. The sun-splashed deck,
storybook attic and well-lived feel add to its charm.
2-4 Armstrong Ave, Killiecrankie, onislandtime.com.au
Flinders Island Gourmet Retreat

Fancy a cooking class while on the island? Wendy’s
tuition moves with the island’s seasons and guests can
opt for stately onsite accommodation at Badger Corner.
180 Badger Corner Rd, Lady Barron,
flindersislandgourmetretreat.com.au
Partridge Farm
Head for the foothills of Strzelecki Range and curl up in
a Gypsy cabin handcrafted by owners Rob and Lorraine
Holloway. They’ll even serve up local wallaby as resident
partridges strut the coastal property. 310 Badger Corner
Rd, Lady Barron, partridgefarm.com.au
Allports Beach House

Well positioned midway at Emita, this spacious beach
house is a short hop to the beach and Flinder’s
Furneaux Museum. 2 Fowlers Rd, Emita,
flindersislandaccommodation.com.au
BRUNY ISLAND
Haven’t quite got your island-hopping fill? Journey on down to
Bruny, a little more than half an hour from Hobart and a short ferry
ride. Head straight to the ultra-luxe new offering by Jan Glover
of Adventure Bay Retreat, The Lair, where an outdoor hot tub and
roaring fire pit await. Need a private chef? Glover has you sorted.
Prices from $900 per night for up to six guests, 49 Hayes Rd,
Adventure Bay, adventurebayretreat.com.au
PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (BRUNY ISLAND), ADAM GIBSON (SATELLITE ISLAND) & NESS VANDERBURGH (WOMBAT LODGE).
From Bruny’s Alonnah, travel by boat across to family-owned

Satellite Island in the D’Entrecasteaux Channel. Here, you’ll
SAT E L L I T E I S L A N D
have your very own island. Shuck wild oysters straight from
the ancient rock shelf and enjoy a long table outdoor evening
with up to eight of your closest pals at the Boathouse.
Prices from $2050 a night for two, satelliteisland.com.au ●
RME
OU
G
T
ES
LUX
U
AP
RY
ESC
Experience Tasmania
with Gourmet Traveller
and Luxury Escapes on
our 5-day tasting trail,
from $2999 per person.
Details on page 25
Clockwise from top right:

Bruny Island at sunset;
Satellite Island. Opposite:
Wombat Lodge is surrounded
by Quoin Farm, Killiecrankie.
A CHEF’S GUIDE TO…
Melbourne, Victoria
TH E BEST VI ETNA M ES E BAKE RY
I’m going to call it. Family-operated Phoc
PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ROPER (NAPIER QUARTER), EVE WILSON (ABALONE)

Thanh Bakery on Victoria Street does the
best bread in Victoria. It’s fluffy, light and
& GETTY IMAGES (MELBOURNE). STYLING CLAIRE LARRITT (ABALONE).

stays super crisp. There’s a line out the
From Afghani bread to the best omakase, chef door every time I go. I opt for crisp pork
belly banh mi, jam-packed with crackling.
THI LE shares her tips for eating in Melbourne. If I’m really hungry I might jam a few xiu
R
mai (Vietnamese meatballs) in as well.
ichmond has long been regarded as one of Melbourne’s GAM E-C H A NG ING P H O
best Vietnamese food destinations, but the 2015 arrival of A great Vietnamese breakfast joint I go
Anchovy marked a new chapter in the city’s Indochine food to is Pho Chu The. Run by two sisters,
history. Chef and Andrew McConnell alum Thi Le has created one is in the kitchen and one is on the
a restaurant that owes as much to her family’s Chinese-Vietnamese floor. I normally order the pho with red
heritage as it does her upbringing in Sydney’s inner-west. Factor in beef, tripe and beef balls. The broth
a strong belief in girl power (see Anchovy’s impressive track record is rich without being too beefy and
of guest chef events) and you’re looking at an exciting new force in the condiments are what make all the
Australian dining. When it comes to off-duty eating and drinking, difference, like pickled red onions with
Le’s picks are as global as the cuisines that inspire Anchovy. the pho. It’s a game-changer.
A chef ’s guide
Clockwise from right: the SE CR ET REC IP E BANH XEO

banquet at Flower Drum;
Go to Victoria Street’s Than Ha 2 for
Napier Quarter’s cosy
interior; abalone with excellent banh xeo (crisp Vietnamese
seasonal vegetables at pancakes). The chef is the only one
Minamishima. Opposite: allowed to make the batter and she
Melbourne’s skyline.
won’t share the recipe. She even
grinds rice for the batter. Her pancakes
are super thin and the same size as
a wok, but you can easily eat one
to yourself. Then again, it’s nice to
go and share a few dishes. The banh
cuon (Vietnamese steamed rice
noodle rolls) are really good, too.
CANTO NE SE C E LE BRATIO N
If I have something special to celebrate, L ATE -NIG H T E ATS
I usually go to Flower Drum for expertly There’s a great Cantonese restaurant
cooked Cantonese food. I particularly in Box Hill called Wong’s Kitchen. It’s
love the steamed fish with ginger and like Golden Century (in Sydney), but
shallot; it’s the best fish you can get. not as elaborate. It does everything
The made-to-order crab dumplings from XO pipis to fried rice and is open
are what dreams are made of. until two in the morning, so is a great
option for chefs and hospo workers.
LI F E-C HANG ING OM AK ASE
When you dine at sushi omakase M Y AP PR OAC H TO V IE TN A M E SE
restaurant Minamishima your whole Anchovy is my approach to Vietnamese
world slows down. It’s not about gorging, food. I grew up in Sydney’s western
it’s about eating. You sit at the beautiful suburbs, so you see a mish-mash of
bar and sushi master Koichi Minamishima cultures on the menu. I love bold flavours
gives you 10 to 15 bites and each one and try to keep it light and fresh, people
is special. It’s a place to celebrate and come to eat and have a good time.
indulge, to slow down and relax. During Covid, we been cooking
with the same ethos but with a focus
THE AF G H AN C O NNE C TIO N on dishes you probably can’t cook at
With a huge Afghan community, home. It’s kind of crazy because we
Dandenong is one of the most exciting don’t usually get to push premium
suburbs to eat. Recently I saw a queue of ingredients, but during lockdown they’ve
people trailing down the road and had to been flying out the door. One Saturday
check it out. Eventually we found it was night I cooked 13 lobsters and two snow
Maiwand Bakery, cooking big Afghan crabs back-to-back. It’s amazing to feel
flatbreads in huge tandoors. Well worth the community supporting you and it
the 40-minute drive from the city. keeps things exciting in the kitchen. ●
TASTE O F M EL BO UR NE
When friends or chefs visit, I love to
take them to Napier Quarter. The vibe As told to Jessica Rigg for
is just so Melbourne; a cultural hub full The Local Tongue. For more
of diversity. It’s a great place to just sit, chef’s guides from around the
drink a coffee and people-watch. And world, see thelocaltongue.com
for visitors, you get to understand and
live Melbourne, even for just an hour.
He insists on
He gives her
dropping her off
an allowance
and picking
her up
He monitors
He checks her phone calls He tracks
her receipts and messages her location
Join
He says
she’s better the
off without
her ‘friends’
dots
He puts
He doesn’t like
her down
her going out
in front of
without him
other people Persistent humiliating,
demeaning and intimidating
behaviour in a relationship
isn’t something to ignore.
Coercive Control is a sustained pattern
He makes it of dominating behaviour which can include
hard for her to emotional abuse, isolation, sexual coercion,
financial abuse and cyber stalking. It is a
see her family complicated situation that can evolve over
many years, leaving victims feeling trapped
and worthless. While it plays out in all types
of domestic relationships, it is women
who are overwhelmingly affected – with
tragic outcomes. It is up to all of us to
recognise the signs and join the dots.
He has Criminalising Coercive Control will
stron opinions save lives. If you or someone you
of what she criminalise know is affected by abuse,
should wear call 1800 RESPECT on
1800 737 732.
proudly supported by
For more information, visit

coercivecontrol.com.au
O N T H E R O A D
The romantic notion of jumping in your car and seeing where the
road takes you is a myth, writes JOANNA HUNKIN. A great road
trip requires planning, playlists, podcasts and snacks.

J
ack Kerouac has a lot to answer for. The American
novelist probably didn’t intend to romanticise the
long-distance road trip when he penned On the Road
in 1957. And yet, romanticise it he did.
“There was nowhere to go but everywhere, so just keep
on rolling under the stars,” he wrote wistfully.
More than 60 years later, the call of the open road has
never beckoned more loudly than in a post-Covid-19 world PLAN AHEAD
of border closures and flight restrictions. But the truth, as Modern technology has lured us all into a false sense of
anyone who has spent more than eight hours cruising the security. Why study a map or look up directions ahead of
open road will know, is that simply jumping in your car and a journey when you have in-built GPS at your fingertips?
hitting the road is, in fact, the quickest route to all manner Well friends, when you’re halfway to Booral instead of
of frustration, regret and marital disharmony. Bowral, you will realise it pays to keep your wits about you
A great road trip requires planning, preparation and, – and have at least the vaguest notion of which direction
most importantly, a well-curated playlist and assortment of you are supposed to be heading. You may also find, as many
tasty-but-tidy snacks. You need to know exactly where you’re hitting the Pacific Highway south of Ballina have, that even
going, where you’re stopping and where to find the best the technological titan that is Google can’t keep up with
coffee along the way. Nail that and you’ll soon be soaking the rate of progress of the Australian government’s
in those halcyon days of summers past (with the added infrastructure department. Mobile billboards shout at
luxury of modern automotive engineering and podcasts.) drivers to ignore their GPS as Google maps repeatedly tells
them to make a U-turn and warns the road ahead is closed.
You know, it’s not. I know, it’s not. But Google, it seems,
hasn’t yet received the memo.
Another advantage of mapping your route in advance
is it allows you to plan your pit-stops and research the best
options on offer. The word research here is key. Do not
assume that just because a town is labelled on a map, it will
be home to an enticing array of cafés and clean, serviceable
bathrooms. Or that it will be easy to navigate and simply
a case of following your nose. A well-planned detour to
a specific destination will ultimately save you time – and
the bitter resentment that comes from sipping burnt coffee
as you turn a corner only to discover a better option was
just metres away.
BE PREPARED
Assuming you’ve followed the advice so far, your
itinerary should already allow for regular coffee stops,
toilet breaks and a pleasant lunch at a charming
country café. But sometimes things don’t quite go
to plan so it pays to be prepared and ensure “hanger”
does not derail your holiday before you’ve even We hit the road in a Mercedes-
arrived. An assortment of refreshments (chilled water, Benz GLB 250 for a 10-hour
juice… potentially a sundowner for passengers) and drive north, allowing us to ride
easily accessible snacks are essential to keep the in equal parts comfort and style.
wheels turning. Avoid anything that drips, melts or Plus, it comes with the added
flakes. Pack some baby wipes and, of course, make bonus of a star-gazing sunroof
sure you’re carrying 2020’s must-have accessories: and touch-button boot.
face masks and hand sanitiser.
It should go without saying, you’ll want a full tank
of petrol before you set out but also take the time to
check your tyre pressure and refill your windscreen
KEEP YOUR OPTIONS OPEN
washer reservoir as well. Declutter your boot – but
remember to pack those reusable shopping totes. You In life, it always pays to pace yourself. And on a road
never know when you’ll need them. trip, that means not burning through your ultimate
Of course, the ultimate preparation for a road playlist before you’ve left outer suburbia. An hour of
trip begins with the vehicle itself and those planning nostalgic bangers and singalongs is fun. Ten hours
a serious journey – or just looking for an excuse to is a form of torture. Take it easy and stick with the
splash some cash – will seriously consider investing radio for as long as reception allows, before easing
in the right vehicle for the job. A racy convertible your way into some podcasts. Save your dance party
may be fun for jaunting around town but you’d be playlist for when energy is waning and you’ve lost
hard-pressed to go past the space and comfort of feeling in your backside.
an SUV on a long-haul drive. Most importantly, give yourself options. Maybe
you’ll be in the mood for some ’80s throwbacks but
maybe you won’t. Make sure you download a range
of genres – and whatever you do, don’t rely on data
to stream your favourite tunes. It will fail you. ●
CHECKING IN
Oval Hotel, North Adelaide

We take the guesswork out of local travel with our tips on where
to stay, eat, drink and play. This month, GT hits South Australia.
North
Adelaide,
SA
Quick
look
Where
King William Rd,
If there’s one thing South Australia’s capital city is known for, it’s churches. The second would be North Adelaide
its historic green parklands – both of which can be enjoyed from the Oval Hotel, Australia’s first
stadium hotel. Whether you’re a sports fan or not, the boutique accommodation, which seamlessly Facilities
wraps around the eastern façade of the iconic Adelaide Oval, kicks goals. The hotel’s 138 rooms Prices from $229
– Parkland, Studio or Suite – are modern but not in a way that sacrifices comfort. Each is complete per night
with neutral furniture and refined finishing touches (see automated room controls), a well-stocked Gym/pool Yes
Hotel bar Yes
S T A Y
mini bar, including wine from nearby McLaren Vale, and good-for-the-planet Evo bath products.
Dimly lit hallways dotted with abstract art reflect the city’s cultured vibe, and lead to the hotel’s Restaurant Yes
impressive oval-facing restaurant and bar. And although the hotel is attached to a 53,000-seat Free WiFi Yes
stadium, the complete offering feels cool, calm and perfectly secluded. ovalhotel.com.au
Checking in
One of the largest (and most impressive) undercover fresh produce

markets in the southern hemisphere, Adelaide Central Market is
not to be missed when you’re in town. With more than 70 stalls
M U S T - D O
selling a wide array of tasty delights, including mettwurst (a cured
and cold-smoked German pork sausage), local and international
cheeses, porchetta rolls, handmade pies and almost every condiment
under the sun, you’ll want to rise early to beat the crowds of eager
shoppers. To sustain energy levels, head to Le Souk for mint tea
and a slice of baklava, or nab a stool at Big Table for great coffee.
Open Tue-Sat; adelaidecentralmarket.com.au
Clockwise from
left: The view
from a suite
at Oval Hotel;
walls lined with
art and wine at
D A Y T R I P Leigh Street Wine
Room; a Danish
Renowned for its white sand and picture-perfect sunsets, Glenelg Beach from Abbots
& Kinney; Oval
WORDS KARLIE VERKERK. PHOTOGRAPHY LEWIS POTTER (LEIGH STREET WINE ROOM).
is well worth the 40-minute tram ride from Victoria Square. Take a dip in
Hotel’s modern
the calm waters, stroll along the jetty or, if you’re feeling energetic, hire bathroom design.
a paddleboard or bike and ride the coastal trail down South Esplanade Opposite: Oval
to Brighton. As you cruise along, you’ll discover beautiful historic Hotel.
mansions and have time to soak up the panoramic ocean views.
Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Pastry is golden at Abbots A long lunch is the best way The only problem you might run into at Leigh
& Kinney, so much so it has to experience Botanic Gardens Street Wine Room is choosing which wine to
recently opened a second Restaurant. Located inside a drink – there’s an impressive list of low-intervention
outpost. To get to its original, stunning heritage rotunda in the Australian, Italian and French drops, with a decent
skip over the River Torrens and heart of the sprawling Adelaide portion sourced straight from the Adelaide Hills.
down Pirie Street. Here you’ll Botanic Gardens, the restaurant The great wine is equally matched with delicious
find playful takes on classic offers a refined garden-to-plate European-inspired fare by chef-owner Nathan
sweet and savoury baked dégustation that focuses on Sasi. Dishes change seasonally, but may include
goods, such as Italian custard- ethically farmed and sustainable a cross-section of broccoli that has been blackened
filled croissants, sourdough local produce, with many of the over flame then paired with a silky almond purée,
or a bowl of wonderfully salty sheep’s milk ricotta
E A T
crumpets, egg-and-tomato ingredients grown on-site. It’s

Danishes, and falafel sausage fine dining in an idyllic setting. dumplings doused in butter and covered with an
rolls. abbotsandkinney.com botanicgardensrestaurant.com.au avalanche of pecorino. leighstreetwineroom.com
Gourmet shopping
They’re the flavours of the month, so put these items at the top of your wish list.
1 2 3
Four Pillars Australian Christmas Gin Harvey Norman This Christmas, create Hawthorn Travel Explore South Australia’s
is distiller Cameron’s tribute to Australia, fried, slow-cooked and grilled dishes remote Eyre Peninsula and experience
Christmas, gin and his late mum Wilma. with ease using the Morphy Richards the incredible raw beauty of rolling sand
This annual release smells like gin and Multifunction Cooking Pot, which includes dunes and sapphire waters, iconic wildlife
tastes like Christmas! Available from a grill pan, deep pan and a steam tray for encounters and ancient Indigenous culture.
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4 5 6
Morella Spicy, zesty jams and relishes are Naked Wines Discover exclusive wines Kumato® is a unique brown-coloured
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recipes using our products, visit our wines. Get a case for just $79.99. to dark red. 300g $4.00, 500g $5.90.
website. $14.95, morellagrove.com.au nakedwines.com.au/wine perfection.com.au
7 8 9
Liebherr Germany’s leading manufacturer Sydney Wine Tasting Taste, learn and Serendipity Ice Cream Serendipity is
of premium wine cellars, Liebherr combines connect with corporate and private wine the happy discovery of some of Australia’s
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WINE I FOOD
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HIDDEN ITALY: BONDI TO MANLY

fully-supported self-guided walk
Better than the Cinque Terre?? We are pleased to present the first
fully-supported, self-guided walk from Bondi to Manly: five days,
eighty kilometres around marvellous Sydney Harbour, one of the
most stunning waterways in the world, starting and finishing at two of
Sydney’s most iconic beaches.
The walk presents the very best of this exceptional city: the best
walks, the best beaches, the best parks, the best food and the best
accommodation. It includes four nights in 4-star accommodation
(including a harbour view room at the spectacular new Eco-resort in
Taronga Zoo) two dinners and all breakfasts.
FULL DETAILS:
www.hiddenitaly.com.au/australasia/

Objects of desire
MERCHANDISING & STYLING LAURA JACOBS. PHOTOGRAPHY HANNAH BLACKMORE.

Juggling act
Whether you’re serving water
or wine, cocktails or mocktails,
there’s a perfect pitcher for
your summer table.
Clockwise from top left: Harmony wine carafe, $79.95, Krosno. Coucou jug in Amber, $149, Maison Balzac.
Beldi jug in Blue, $95, Tigmi Trading. Tom Dixon Tank jug, $243, Farfetch. Piccadilly carafe in Olive, $69.90, Città.

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3 DAYS, 19 HOURS,

Yuzu-and-ginger cured salmon

Cos hearts and green

Regulars 77 SUMMER DRINKING GUIDE

PHOTOGRAPHY ADAM GIBSON.

Marketing, Research & Circulation

JACLYN KOLUDROVIC CYNTHIA ADEY SIMON BAJADA ALICE HANSEN

We will still be surrounded by fun

WHAT GT LOVES THIS MONTH E’

Caffeine ﬁx Festive ﬁzz

I The Old Clare Hotel

Gourmet gifting Chippendale hotel proved

gourmettravellergiftcard.com.au JOANNA HUNKIN, EDITOR

EMAIL ASKGOURMET@AREMEDIA.COM.AU // FOLLOW @ GOURM

Edited by JORDAN KRETCHMER

summer, Raes takes to the sea, and hot hotel stays.

HAMISH BLAKE &

Where are you most excited to take your kids to?

Do you have any recommendations for the best places to eat?

THE SOCIAL GOOD

RAESS SETS SAIL

O N T H E PA S S with ZOE BIRCH, GREASY ZOE’S

You were already a very small restaurant. What does it look

What did you do with your spare time during Melbourne’s

What’s something you’ve learned from this year? We’ve

You’re technically in Melbourne metro, but also a bit out of

Shop 3/850 Heidelberg-Kinglake Rd, Hurstbridge, Vic.

THREE OF A KIND CHRISTMAS HAMS 1

AUSTRALIA with each hotel creating locally curated

PHOTOGRAPHY RHIANNON TAYLOR (LANCEMORE CROSSLEY ST).

Now is a time for inspiration

Clockwise from far left:

PHOTOGRAPHY ESTEBAN LA TESSA.

Lady-in-waiting to Princess Margaret, and

When I first went to Mustique, I thought it was absolutely appalling.

Princess Margaret came on her honeymoon in the royal yacht. We were

texture. Punctuated with the

Create simple, flavourful meals in less than

Photography JOHN-PAUL URIZAR Styling STEVE PEARCE

Stir-fried sweet potato noodles with tofu

Jerk pork with salsa

1 Wash and drain rice until water

Tostadas with paprika prawns

1 Preheat oven to 200°C and line

Carrot and Manchego

1 Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a saucepan over

Cucumber & Finger Lime

You need The Breville Bluicer

"Nothing says summer

Find the recipe at

Salmon & Avocado Roulade

You need the KitchenAid

Grilled Lobster & Steamed Kipfler

You need the Morphy

"A lavish Christmas

Find the recipe at

White Chocolate &

You need the KitchenAid Stand Mixer

Espresso & Dark

You need the Smeg Capsule

SHOP ONLINE WITH YOUR LOCAL STORE HN.COM.AU/

"Dessert is always the

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