francescog

Milan: First Time Visit

Milan, 4 Days

Table of contents:
Guide Description 2
Itinerary Overview 3
Daily Itineraries 5
Milan Snapshot 17

1
Guide Description
AUTHOR NOTE: Italy's frenetic capital of design, fashion
and finance hosts a collection of must do's for the first time
visitor: The Duomo, a Gothic masterpiece and one of the largest
cathedrals in the world, took some five centuries to complete.
Close by is the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, a Belle Epoque
arcade and La Scala, the famous opera house. At the Pinacoteca
di Brera, one of Italy's finest galleries, you can feast on Bellini,
Caravaggio, Raphael, Tintoretto and Veronese. The city's most
famous piece of art can be seen at Santa Maria delle Grazie
("Our Lady of Grace"), the famous church and Dominican
convent, where Leonardo da Vinci's 'The Last Supper' is in the
refectory of the convent. (Please remember that if you want
to see Leonardo's Last Supper, you need to book in advance,
because if you don't pre-purchase tickets, you have very little
chance of being admitted to view the mural!) Finally for shopping,
head for Quadrilatero d'Oro, the Golden Square, one of the
world's great shopping areas.

2

Itinerary Overview
Day 1 - Milan
DAY NOTE: This is your first day in Milan so you should relax
a little and enjoy the atmosphere close to your chosen hotel.
You are only minutes from one of the world's great shopping
areas known as the golden square - Quadrilatero d'Oro -
bordered by Via Montenapoleone and Via Della Spiga, where the
fashion Gods have their temples and within a few steps of three
iconic buildings, the Duomo, La Scala and the Galleria Vittorio
Emanuele II. Start at Piazza Del Duomo and admire the facade
of the cathedral, stroll through the Galleria and enter Piazza
della Scala where you will find the Museo Teatrale alla Scala.
Take a light lunch at Bistrot Duomo on top of the La Rinascente
department store and if you still have some energy, climb the
stairs to the roof of the Duomo for excellent views over the city. A
few strides away is the Palazzo Reale which houses the Museum
of Contemporary Art and the Cathedral Museum. In the early
evening take a stroll or passeggiata back to the Galleria and
enjoy a glass of prosecco, al fresco, at one of the Galleria's
classic bars and people watch before dinner. Finally select a
gelato (ice cream) from the nearby Antica Gelateria del Corso to
end your first day in Milan.
Starhotel Rosa
Grand & Expensive
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
Cafes and cute shops line the avenues
Piazza del Duomo
The city's impressive central square
Bistrot Duomo
Breathtaking Duomo Panorama
Santa Maria Nascente (Duomo di
Milano)
Symbol of Milan
Museo Teatrale alla Scala
History of Opera!
Palazzo Reale
Old royal residence
Antica Gelateria del Corso
Ice cream parlour and bar
things to do
restaurants
hotels
nightlife
Day 2 - Milan
DAY NOTE: On your second day, explore slightly further a field,
not too far, as Milan's main sights are all within easy reach.
The Sforzesco Castle is the first port of call followed by the
Pinacoteca di Brera famous for its prestigious collections of
ancient and modern art. Lunch at Da Claudio and taste the
Milanese-style sushi. The afternoon starts with a visit to the
church of San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore with its wonderful
frescoes followed by a short taxi ride or metro trip to 10 Corso
Como, (a 3 minute walk from Porta Garibadli Station) the final
stop of the day. Grouped around a beautiful courtyard, this is one
of Milan's most stylish places hosting the Galleria Carla Sozzani,
a 3 room hotel, café, restaurant, bookstore plus a design and
fashion store.
Castello Sforzesco
Guided tours highlight the history and current art
collections
Castello (Il)
But, is it Art?
Da Claudio
Archrival
Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero
Maggiore
Renaissance church
10 Corso Como Café
Novelty Among Local Clubs & Pubs
Day 3 - Milan
DAY NOTE: Today, something a little bit different - a visit to some
archaeological remains at the Colonne di S. Lorenzo before
heading to the Porta Ticinese, a medieval gateway to the city.
Lunch at nearby Trattoria Toscana before exploring the canal
area of the city. Milan's history is inherently connected with the
system of canals, that wind their way through the whole city.
Naviglio Grande is the oldest canal, construction took place from
1177 to 1257 and the canal is some fifty kilometres in length.
Originally built as a means of transporting goods, it was also used
to carry the marble blocks that were used in the construction
of the cathedral. Today amongst the old wash-houses with
their wooden beamed roofs there are artisans shops along
side boutiques, cafés, restaurants and barges fitted out as bars
creating a unique atmosphere. If you are staying in this area for
3
 things to do
Itinerary Overview restaurants
hotels
nightlife

dinner, try Della Mole, a traditional restaurant offering great food

in an excellent location.

Colonne di S. Lorenzo
Archaelogical Remnants

Porta Ticinese Medievale

Beautiful gateway to the city

Trattoria Toscana
Trendy Tuscan Cuisine

Naviglio Grande
Attractive Canal That Passes Through the City

Delle Mole
Close to the Canals

Day 4 - Milan
DAY NOTE: Now... I hope you bought your tickets! Milan's
greatest piece of art, Leonardo's Last Supper, awaits you. Try and
arrive 15/20 minutes before your ticket time. Take a taxi or metro
(a 10 minute walk from Cadorna station) to the 15th century
Renaissance convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Don't forget
to view the exquisite cloister by Bramante and remember you
only get 15 minutes to see this famed picture. Finally to Peck, by
taxi or metro, Milan's best gourmet shop on via Spadari, no.9 (a
few minutes from Duomo station). Three floors of mouth watering
delicacies and in the basement, a 5000 bottle wine-cellar! A great
place to have a coffee and stock up on some Milanese specialties
before heading home.
.
.
Arreverderci Milano!

Santa Maria delle Grazie

Bramante & Leonardo in Milan

Peck
A Milanese food institution and gastronomic delight.

4
Day 1 - Milan
QUICK NOTE

DAY NOTE: This is your first day in Milan so you should relax a little and enjoy the atmosphere close to your chosen hotel. You
are only minutes from one of the world's great shopping areas known as the golden square - Quadrilatero d'Oro - bordered by Via
Montenapoleone and Via Della Spiga, where the fashion Gods have their temples and within a few steps of three iconic buildings, the
Duomo, La Scala and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Start at Piazza Del Duomo and admire the facade of the cathedral, stroll through
the Galleria and enter Piazza della Scala where you will find the Museo Teatrale alla Scala. Take a light lunch at Bistrot Duomo on top
of the La Rinascente department store and if you still have some energy, climb the stairs to the roof of the Duomo for excellent views
over the city. A few strides away is the Palazzo Reale which houses the Museum of Contemporary Art and the Cathedral Museum. In
the early evening take a stroll or passeggiata back to the Galleria and enjoy a glass of prosecco, al fresco, at one of the Galleria's classic
bars and people watch before dinner. Finally select a gelato (ice cream) from the nearby Antica Gelateria del Corso to end your first day
in Milan.

1 Starhotel Rosa
contact:
tel: +39 02 8831
fax: +39 02 805 7964
http://www.starhotels.com/ho DESCRIPTION: Part of the Star Hotels Group, Starhotel Rosa
tel/rosa_milano/starhotels_ro is a good addition to comfort and style in Milan. The entrance
sa.php to the hotel is in Via Pattari on Corso Vittorio Emanuele, close
to the Duomo. It has a large atrium with modern furniture and
location: tastefully done rooms that combine the latest amenities with
P.za Fontana 3 traditional decor. It is suitable for tourists who wish to visit
more photos on Hotels.com
Milan 20122 Milan's main attractions while staying royally in a grand and
opulent setting. The area is a pedestrian precinct and is well-
connected by public transport. © wcities.com

MY NOTE: Classic Hotel in great location.

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Day 1 - continued...

2 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

contact:
tel: +39 02 7252 4301

location:
DESCRIPTION: Milan's late-19th-century version of a mall is this
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II wonderful steel-and-glass-covered, cross-shaped arcade. The elegant
Milan 20121 Galleria is the prototype of the enclosed shopping malls that were to
become the hallmark of 20th-century consumerism. It's safe to say that
none of the imitators have come close to matching the Galleria for style
and flair. The designer of this urban marvel, Giuseppe Mengoni, didn't live
to see the Milanese embrace his creation: He tripped and fell from a girder
a few days before the Galleria opened in 1878. His shopping mall par
excellence provides a lovely route between the Duomo and La Scala and
is a fine locale for watching the flocks of well-dressed Milanese -- you'll
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understand why the Galleria is called Il Salotto di Milano (the drawing
room of Milan). © Frommer's

MY NOTE: Take a coffee and just watch the fashion show!

3 Piazza del Duomo

contact:
tel: +39 02 7252 4301

location:
DESCRIPTION: The gigantic central square in front of Milan
Piazza del Duomo cathedral has always been a reference point for Milan's town
Milan 20121 planners. It was a meeting point for important roads before and
during the Roman period. In the 4th century, it was a religious
centre with the construction of the Basilica of Santa Tecla, and
the Baptistry of San Giovanni alle Fonti (both demolished in the
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mid-14th century and their foundations can be seen below the
space in front of the cathedral). Since 1386, the cathedral has
been the religious and cultural centre of the city. Symmetrical
porticoes line the longer sides (with the Arengario pavilions
built in 1939 and the Royal Palace on the south side and
Galleria on the north side). In the centre stands the equestrian
statue of Vittorio Emanuele II by Ercole Rosa (1878) which was
covered until a few years ago by flashing advertising signs. ©
wcities.com

4 Bistrot Duomo
contact:
tel: +39 02 877 120
fax: +39 02 877 035
DESCRIPTION: In an elegant and spectacular setting (upstairs at La Rinascente overlooking
location: the Duomo rooftop), this restaurant delights day shoppers or pre-theatre diners with international
2 Via San Raffaele dishes like Gazpacho (in summer), baked eggplant with veal meatballs, basil and tomato Sauce.
Milan 20121 Dessert highlights include Clafoutis, a cherry-flavored custard cake. © wcities.com

hours: MY NOTE: La Rinascente, Milan's best department store.

Mo to Sa from 12:00 PM
to 02:30 PM,Mo to Sa from
07:00 PM to 10:15 PM

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Day 1 - continued...
contact:
tel: +39 02 8646 3456
fax: +39 02 7202 2419
http://www.duomomilano.it/
location:
Piazza del Duomo, 18
Milan 20122
contact:
tel: +39 2 8879 2473
fax: +39 2 8879 2090
http://www.teatroallascala.org
/it/museoscala/
location:
Largo Ghiringhelli 1
Milan 20121
contact:
tel: +39 02 875672
http://www.comune.milano.it/p
alazzoreale
location:
12 Piazza del Duomo
Milan 20122
5 Santa Maria Nascente (Duomo di
Milano)
DESCRIPTION: Watched over by the Madonnina, the
cathedral's high rose marble spires represent the city's most
famous artistic and religious monument. The dimensions of
Christendom's third biggest church are still awe-inspiring at
108m high (to the tip of the tallest spire) and 158m long. A
range of architectural styles feature: doorways are 17th century, wcities
the central balcony from the late 18th Century and the three
main upper windows early 19th-century pieces by Carlo Amati.
The cathedral's vast interior overwhelms: its impressive pillars,
vaults and streamlined arches enhanced by light that floods
through the splendid stained-glass windows and the wonderful
statuary surrounding the naves.  © wcities.com
MY NOTE: Go to the roof and see the view.
6 Museo Teatrale alla Scala
DESCRIPTION: The Museo Teatrale alla Scala was founded in 1913,
but underwent a radical restoration and was opened again in 2004. The
museum is a music-lover's Mecca: it gathers portraits and statues of the
most well-known composers, opera singers and actors. It contains rare,
ancient musical instruments such as a XVII spinet with the warning words
"Inexpert hand, touch me not!" painted on it. Historical memories and
set designs of the Theatre are on display on the second floor. In the first
room, it is worth pointing out the still-life of musical instruments painted
by Baschenis. The entrance of this museum is in the same building of the
Theatre just on the side of the main doors. - Maria Frullini © wcities.com
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7 Palazzo Reale
DESCRIPTION: The seat of government in the city was
originally the Palazzo del Broletto, where the municipal
institutions were located. It became a noble residence during
the rule of the Torriane and Visconti families, who gave it its
shape that can in part still be seen, based on a system of two
courtyards. Partially demolished to make way for the Cathedral
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nave, the building was refurbished after 1452 by Francesco
Sforza. Used as the seat of power by the Spanish rulers, it
underwent substantial modifications until the late 18th century,
in particular the extensive work by Giuseppe Piermarini.
Alongside the volumes of the Palazzo there is the Arengario,
seat of the Palazzo del Turismo, with its two pavilions designed
in 1939 (and completed in 1956) by the architects Enrico
Agostino Griffini, Pier Giulio Magistretti, Giovanni Muzio and
Piero Portaluppi. Feature of interest - On the first floor of
the Palazzo, there is the famous 'Sala delle Cariatidi', in the
location of the ancient theatre destroyed by fire in 1776. This
hall is now undergoing restoration. © wcities.com
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Day 1 - continued...

8 Antica Gelateria del Corso

contact:
tel: +39 02 7639 0904

location:
DESCRIPTION: Add this as a stop on any itinerary that brings you to the Galleria del Corso.
4 Galleria del Corso The historical building, filled with elegant furnishings, is spread over three floors to hold the large
Milan 20122 number of people who come here everyday to try one of its delicious specialities, or for a cup of
coffee. The Nescafé machine is a real novelty and can serve six different types of coffee. The
weekend brunch from noon-4p on Saturdays and Sundays includes American-style buffet foods,
sliced meats, salads, cakes and ice creams. © wcities.com

8
Day 2 - Milan
QUICK NOTE

DAY NOTE: On your second day, explore slightly further a field, not too far, as Milan's main sights are all within easy reach. The
Sforzesco Castle is the first port of call followed by the Pinacoteca di Brera famous for its prestigious collections of ancient and modern
art. Lunch at Da Claudio and taste the Milanese-style sushi. The afternoon starts with a visit to the church of San Maurizio al Monastero
Maggiore with its wonderful frescoes followed by a short taxi ride or metro trip to 10 Corso Como, (a 3 minute walk from Porta Garibadli
Station) the final stop of the day. Grouped around a beautiful courtyard, this is one of Milan's most stylish places hosting the Galleria
Carla Sozzani, a 3 room hotel, café, restaurant, bookstore plus a design and fashion store.

1 Castello Sforzesco
contact:
tel: +39 02 8846 3700
http://www.milanocastello.it
DESCRIPTION: Though it's been clumsily restored many times,
location: most recently at the end of the 19th century, this fortresslike
Piazza Castello 3 castle continues to evoke Milan's two most powerful medieval
Milan 20121 and Renaissance families, the Visconti and the Sforza. The
Visconti built the castle in the 14th century and the Sforza,
hours: who married into the Visconti clan and eclipsed them in power,
Tues-Sun 9:30am-5:30pm wcities
reconstructed it in 1450. The most influential residents were
Ludovico il Moro and Beatrice d'Este (he of the Sforza and
she of the famous Este family of Ferrara). After ill-advisedly
calling the French into Italy at the end of the 15th century,
Ludovico died in the dungeons of a château in the Loire valley
-- but not before the couple made the Castello and Milan one
of Italy's great centers of the Renaissance. It was they who
commissioned the works by Bramante and Leonardo da Vinci,
and these splendors can be viewed on a stroll through the miles
of salons that surround the Castello's enormous courtyard.
The salons house a series of small city-administered museums
known collectively as the Civici Musei Castello Sforzesco.

9
Day 2 - continued...

They include a pinacoteca with works by Bellini, Correggio,

and Magenta, and the extensive holdings of the Museo d'Arte
Antica, filled with Egyptian funerary objects, prehistoric finds
from Lombardy, and the last work of 89-year-old Michelangelo,
his unfinished Rondanini Pietà. © Frommer's

2 Castello (Il)
contact:
tel: +39 02 86 2913
fax: +39 2 87 7962
DESCRIPTION: This gallery located at Via Brera, 16 was founded back in 1967. Right in the middle
location: of artistic Milan, it secializes in modern twentieth century Italian paintings. It remains closed on
16 Via Brera Sundays and is open to the public on Monday mornings but only by appointment. © wcities.com
Milan 20121

contact:
tel: +39 02 805 6857
fax: +39 02 8646 2215
http://www.pescheriadaclaudi
o.it/
location:
Via Ponte Vetero 16
Milan 20121
hours:
Tu to Sa from 08:30 AM to
02:30 PM,Tu to Sa from 04:00
PM to 09:00 PM
3 Da Claudio
DESCRIPTION: One of Milan's oft-repeated idiosyncracies is that it is a landlocked city and yet
has the freshest fish in the country: The best catch is trucked up here from the shore every night
to chase those bankers' euros. The best place to enjoy Milan's maritime bounty without dispensing
a fortune is at this Brera fish market, which becomes a popular raw bar at night. Almost everyone
goes for the mixed plate, which includes raw tuna, sea bass, salmon, red snapper, sturgeon,
shrimp, prawns, and cod, or whatever else didn't sell that day. Order a plate for 10€ ($13), or a
smaller portion for 8€ ($10), and enjoy it standing up at the counter (there are no seats) with a glass
of prosecco, which is on the house. © Frommer's

4 Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore

location:
15 Corso Magenta
Milan 20123
DESCRIPTION: This church was built in 1503 by Gian Giacomo Dolcebuono. The facade, erected
between 1574 and 1581, was completed in 1872 by Angelo Colla. There are three floors inside
with nineteeth century frescoes on the sides of the loggias and the naves. The internal facade also
includes frescoes by Simone Peterzano. In the third chapel on the left, there is a nun's choirbox
made in wood by Gian Giacomo Dolcebuono in 1500 with an extremely fine organ in the centre
made in 1554 by Gian Giacomo Antegnani and painted in tempera by Francesco Medici. There are
also frescoes on the walls by Bernardino, Aurelio and Giovan Pietro Luini. Do not miss the frescoes
by Bernardino Luini painted from 1522 to 1529. © wcities.com

5 10 Corso Como Café

contact:
tel: +39 02 2901 3581
fax: +39 02 2900 0760
http://www.10corsocomo.com/ DESCRIPTION: Found in Corso Como, one of Milan's most
frequented and fashionable spots for night-life, this is a
location: favourite haunt for locals as well as foreigners and models.
Via Como, 10, A deliberately simplistic or minimalistic atmosphere creates
Milan 20154 a striking canvas for the artistic presentation of the delicate
international cuisine. The food goes down well with the house
hours: wcities
drinks and non-stop music. © wcities.com

MY NOTE: One of Milan's most stylish shops.

10
Day 2 - continued...

Mo from 06:00 PM to 01:00

AM,Tu to Fr from 12:00 PM to
01:00 AM,Sa from 11:00 PM
to 02:00 AM,Su from 11:00
PM to 01:00 AM

11
Day 3 - Milan
QUICK NOTE

DAY NOTE: Today, something a little bit different - a visit to some archaeological remains at the Colonne di S. Lorenzo before heading to
the Porta Ticinese, a medieval gateway to the city. Lunch at nearby Trattoria Toscana before exploring the canal area of the city. Milan's
history is inherently connected with the system of canals, that wind their way through the whole city. Naviglio Grande is the oldest canal,
construction took place from 1177 to 1257 and the canal is some fifty kilometres in length. Originally built as a means of transporting
goods, it was also used to carry the marble blocks that were used in the construction of the cathedral. Today amongst the old wash-
houses with their wooden beamed roofs there are artisans shops along side boutiques, cafés, restaurants and barges fitted out as bars
creating a unique atmosphere. If you are staying in this area for dinner, try Della Mole, a traditional restaurant offering great food in an
excellent location.

1 Colonne di S. Lorenzo
location:
39 Corso di Porta Ticinese
Milan 20123
DESCRIPTION: In front of the Basilica of San Lorenzo, there is a square
with a row of columns on either side which were taken from a monumental
building dating from the 2nd century B.C. and repositioned. Up until 1935,
the space between the church and columns was entirely occupied by old
houses abutting onto the façade of the church itself. Despite the plans to
conserve this ancient urban fabric, the renovations led to the demolition of
the old houses and the isolation of the monument. © wcities.com

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12
Day 3 - continued...

2 Porta Ticinese Medievale

location:
Corso di Porta Ticinese
Milan 20123
DESCRIPTION: The ancient Porta Ticinese gate, part of the
12th-century city walls built after the destruction wrought by
Frederick Barbarossa, is the only remaining gate along with
the arches of Porta Nuova. The present state of the gate
reflects the work of Camillo Boito (1861-65) who isolated the
surviving structures and completed the missing parts with
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his own interpretation. Feature of interest: Starting from the
ancient gate and moving out of the city, one finds Corso di
Porta Ticinese, originally a fortified wall, part of the extension
of the city fortifications commissioned by Azzone Visconti in
the 14th century. The original character of this district, one
destined to craftsmen's workshops, can still be seen in the
buildings, featuring a narrow, tall street front and an extensive
series of inner courtyards and service buildings further back. ©
wcities.com

3 Trattoria Toscana
contact:
tel: +39 02 8940 6292
fax: +39 02 8940 9840
http://www.trattoriatoscana.n DESCRIPTION: Do not be surprised by the dark and empty
et/ entrance. The party is not there. Keep going ahead passing
in front of the kitchens, the bathrooms and make a sharp turn
location: between the waiters. All of a sudden a large room will appear
58 Corso di Porta Ticinese where there are restaurant tables, and the courtyard where
Milan 20123 you can finally have a cocktail. Although it isn't a very large
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place, Trattoria Toscana is very charming and makes you forget
hours: you are in Milan. In the center of the courtyard is an immense
Mo to Sa from 07:00 PM to plant with tables all around it, plus chairs and the bar where the
02:00 AM pizzetta anti-pastas and other cold first courses are served, as
is compulsory at this hour. Always very crowded, it has never
lost its image as a trendy vogue bar. It is also very popular with
models. © wcities.com

contact:
tel: +39 02 8940 9971
fax: +39 02 8940 0181
http://www.navigliogrande.mi
.it/
location:
Alzaia Naviglio Grande 4
Milan 20144
4 Naviglio Grande
DESCRIPTION: Naviglio Grande was one of the first canals in
Milan and was one of the most important engineering works
to be carried out in Lombardy during the Middle Ages. For
centuries it played a fundamental role in the city's economy by
connecting it to the great canal network in Lombardy. Exiting
the Darsena along the towpath of the Naviglio Grande, you
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will see the large residential buildings with fenced courtyards
from the early 1900s, arts and crafts workshops, old barges
(now turned into bars), the many areas that are undergoing
urban renewal, and, further out, the country villas of the nobility
(particularly between Abbiategrasso and Robecco sul Naviglio).
Make a quick stop near Vicolo Lavandai, the ancient shelter
with wooden beams that covers the old communal wash-house,
a quaint location that is one of the relatively few remainders
of Milan's distant past. Check website for more details. ©
wcities.com

13
Day 3 - continued...

5 Delle Mole
contact:
tel: +39 02 832 3810 / +39 33
8788 9407
fax: +39 02 839 5082 DESCRIPTION: The area around the canals has been one of Milan's most popular night spots
http://www.ristorantedellemol for years now. The area is near the historical Porta Ticinese and the columns of S. Lorenzo, and
e.com/ is always filled with a stream of people out for the night. This is a traditional restaurant, with air-
conditioning, a summer garden and a boat. You can eat well here and then go out into the chaotic
location: climate of the surrounding area. The cuisine is very traditional, with good fish or meat-based
Via Scoglio di Quarto 3 dishes, and excellent first courses and starters. To sum up, this restaurant offers good food in an
Milan 20136 excellent location. © wcities.com

14
Day 4 - Milan
QUICK NOTE

DAY NOTE: Now... I hope you bought your tickets! Milan's greatest piece of art, Leonardo's Last Supper, awaits you. Try and arrive
15/20 minutes before your ticket time. Take a taxi or metro (a 10 minute walk from Cadorna station) to the 15th century Renaissance
convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Don't forget to view the exquisite cloister by Bramante and remember you only get 15 minutes to
see this famed picture. Finally to Peck, by taxi or metro, Milan's best gourmet shop on via Spadari, no.9 (a few minutes from Duomo
station). Three floors of mouth watering delicacies and in the basement, a 5000 bottle wine-cellar! A great place to have a coffee and
stock up on some Milanese specialties before heading home.
.
.
Arreverderci Milano!

1 Santa Maria delle Grazie

contact:
tel: +39 02 8942 1146
http://www.cenacolovinciano.
it/ DESCRIPTION: Commissioned by Ludovico di Moro and
designed by Guiniforte Solari, this building was intended as a
location: mausoleum for the Sforzesco dynasty, in which the remains
2 Piazza Santa Maria delle of the duke and his wife, Beatrice d'Este, as well as others
Grazie connected with the family, were to be laid to rest. The adjoining
Milan 20123 Dominican convent's cloister and sacristy were later renovated
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by Bramante. The refectory walls are home to Leonardo da
Vinci's(1452-1519) Last Supper. Bramante's façade is of
particular interest as is the gallery's terracotta ornamentation,
which became one of the dominant motifs in northern Italian
Renaissance architecture. Guests must book in advance. One
of the most famous paintings The Last Supper is housed here.
Painted by Leonardo Da Vinci, it is a very complex undertaking
and hence a lot of rough sketches were made he finalized the
unbelievable painting, which had its huge share of bad luck all
the way. © wcities.com
15
Day 4 - continued...
contact:
tel: +39 02 8023161
fax: +39 02 860408
http://www.peck.it/
location:
Via Spadari 9
Milan Lombardy 20123
hours:
Monday: 15.30 - 19.30,
Tuesday to Friday : 09.15 -
19.30, Saturday 8.45 - 19.30
MY NOTE: Don't forget to book your tickets!
2 Peck
OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:
There is a unique system if you want to buy something at Peck, a bit like the
sometimes baffling procedure for ordering a coffee in Italy! Go to any counter,
tell them what you want and they'll give you a receipt, go to another counter if it
takes your fancy, order and collect another receipt, when you have finished take
your receipts to one of the cash desks. Then retrace your steps and go back to
the counters you ordered from and the staff will have beautifully gift wrapped your
purchases ready for you to take away.
DESCRIPTION: Francesco Peck a ham-seller from Prague set up shop in Milan in 1883. Some 25
years later he sold his shop to Eliseo Magnaghi who managed the store for nearly 50 years before
selling it on to the Grazioli family in 1956. Today it is owned by the Stoppani brothers, who bought
the store in 1970.
Similar in some ways to Fauchon in Paris or perhaps a mini version of Harrod's foodhall in London,
for the Milanese however, this is foodie heaven. For hams and cheeses, for pastas and sauces, for
conserves and preserves, for oils and vinegars, you won't know which way to look first!
Don't miss the basement, with its 5000 bottle wine-cellar!
© NileGuide
16
Milan Snapshot
Local Info
Milan is divided into 9 distinct zones that
radiate out from the Historical Center(Zona
1) to the periphery. They are identified
numerically by the local council, but also
have names, and each zone includes many
different neighborhoods and quarters.
Although every area is not listed here, each
plays its own special role in the history of
Milan; from theimportantissimo historical
center to the modern"dormitory quarters" of
San Siro.
Centro Storico& Brera
The Historical Center incorporates the
fashion district(called theQuadrilatero
d'Oro), Castello Sforzesco, the
glorious Piazza della Scala, the inviting
neighborhood of Brera, and other areas of
historical and commercial interest. Many
people actually live in the city center, but
they find that there are some disadvantages
involved in living there, e.g. lack of parking
spaces, supermarkets and dry cleaner's,
and the rent can be incredibly high. On the
upside, there is always plenty to do: there
are many excellent restaurants and bars
within walking distance, and a summer's
evening stroll through this area is absolute
bliss.
Corso Buenos Aires
Northeast of the center are some well-
known streets which are popular with
residents, businessmen and visitors: Corso
Venezia and its intersecting roads are lined
with noble families' palaces; in some cases
these are still used as residences, in others,
they have been converted into luxury
offices. The gardens of Porta Venezia make
up a small, enclosed park, which is one of
the most beautiful in Milan. Further north,
is Corso Buenos Aires, one of the largest
commercial main roads, which is easy to
reach and is well-served by the metro; it
has a cosmopolitan feel, many immigrants
live there, and because of this, there are
many different ethnic restaurants.
Magenta
Corso Magenta begins at Porta Magenta
and leads into the center; thiscorso
is"healthy and wealthy": one half has hardly
any shops, but many gorgeous palazzi
with exquisite, hidden gardens, while the
other half has a multitude of shops, some of
which are very prestigious. There are also
several interesting churches and museums
in this area. Thecorso is well served by
public transport, and it has lots of traffic
and few parking spaces during the day, but
becomes a great deal more peaceful at
night-time.
Ticinese-Navigli
Southwest of Milan stands the Ticinese-
Navigli area, which is a mixture of old and
new. Many of the original residents(or their
descendants) still live in Ticinese and there
are manycase di ringhiera- apartments
with wrought-iron balconies that face
inwards. Blue-collar workers lived here
at the beginning of the 20th Century. The
apartments have undergone renovation
and some now house architects, artists,
fashion designerset al. This area is full of
bars and shops selling new and vintage
clothes, antiques, furniture, as well as
basic necessities. TheNavigli, the city's
canal system, includes two canals: the
Naviglio Grande and the Naviglio Pavese. A
short way down the Naviglio Pavese is Via
Chiesa Rossa, characterized by the wave
of immigration which took place here in the
50s and 60s. The area by the Navigli teems
with nightclubs, bars, and pubs, which
means that it is always lively and chaotic,
especially during the summertime. The
Naviglio leads to theautostrada, or highway,
for Genova. The Assago complex, where
the Datchforum is situated, can be seen on
the A7 highway.
Amendola-Fiera& San Siro
Another district that is famous for its
exhibitions and trade fairs is Amendola-
Fiera; this is a residential area as well, with
many tree-lined streets and tallpalazzi,
or large residential buildings. Most of
thesepalazzi were constructed after 1930,
and so they are still in good condition.
San Siro is famous for its Stadio San Siro
football ground, an important spot for
fans of the AC Milan team. Porta Vittoria&
Porta Romana Vittoria is also a popular
residential area that has a working/middle-
class feel; Viale Lazio(one of the streets
in this area) is predominantly made up
of residential, leafy avenues; Corso Lodi
reverberates with the hum of commercial
activity; Viale Umbria is residential and
Corso XXII Marzo is filled with shops. Some
fashion houses have their headquarters
in Vittoria, around Viale Umbria and
Corso Lodi. There is still some industrial
activity to the east, on Viale Mugello and
towards Viale Molise(the large complex
of Macello Comunale) and further out,
and nearby is the famous wholesale
market, Mercato Ortofrutticolo. Further
east, between Forlanini's verdant park and
Taliedo(heading towards Linate Airport), is
theIdroscalo, a large dock filled with water
where you can swim, sunbathe, and sail.
Città Studi
Città Studi is located in the east of
Milan and as the name suggests, is the
University district, home to the Polytechnic
and several chemistry, biology and
pharmaceuticals departments. Many of
the buildings here were constructed in the
1920s, 1930s and 1940s and the overall
feel is that of a charming residential area
with trees on every street.
Isola
To the north of the city lies Isola, located
just behind the Stazione Centrale, other
zones in the vicinity are home to large
hospital complexes, such as Ospedale
Maggiore di Milano Policlinico and CTO.
©
History
Milan:
Milan's history is full of wealth, intrigue and
conflict. Throughout its existence, Milan has
known failure and incredible success and
has faced both with a spirit and verve that
makes this city one of the most famous in
the world.
The first known inhabitants of Milan date
back to the Bronze Age; the Gauls settled
here in the 4th Century BCE and may
have given the area the name"place in
the middle". The Romans conquered the
area in 222 BCE and gave it a similar
name,"Mediolanum", and it became an
autonomous province(Municipium) under
the control of Rome. Its importance grew
considerably during the Imperial Age.
Thanks to its geographical position at the
center of the Padana Plain, merchants
and travelers would stop here en-route to
the north of the Italian Peninsula, and the
city became an important military defense
against the barbarians who attacked from
northern Europe. By 286 CE, Milan was
significant enough to be declared the
17
Milan Snapshot continued
capital of the Western Roman Empire
by Emperor Diocletian, who remained
in the Eastern Empire while his western
counterpart, Maximianus, moved his
residence to Milan. Halfway through the
4th Century it became the second city of
the Roman Empire, after Rome. In 313
CE, the Emperor Constantine issued the
Edict of Milan, which freedom of religion
to Christians in the empire. Traces of the
Roman Empire can be found in places such
as Piazza Cordusio.
Although Milan became less important as
the Roman Empire declined, and due to
its northern position, suffered greatly from
invasions by the Visigoths in 402 CE, Attila
the Hun in 452 CE, and the Ostrogoths in
539 CE. In 569 CE, the city was conquered
by the Longobards, from which the region
of Lombardy gets its name. Milan's rebirth
began when Charlemagne conquered the
city in 774 CE and took the new title"King
of the Lombards". Milan became an
autonomous city in the 12th Century and
trade prospered, due to its key position
in the Po Valley and on the important
routes from southern Italy to the Alps. As
a result of Milan's wealth, importance and
expansion, a new wall with six gateways
was built and some of these gates are
still visible today. The city built a system
of canals(navigli) in the 12th and 13th
Centuries, destined for defensive and
agricultural purposes, which still defines the
city's physiognomy today.
In the 15th century, power passed from the
Visconti Signoria to the Sforza Signoria.
The economy boomed, especially in terms
of crafts, trade and agriculture. Architectural
additions at this time include the Ospedale
Maggiore(today the seat of the State
University), the Lazzaretto(which holds
the Rotonda della Besana and which
is an open air cinema in the summer),
and Castello Sforzesco, a listed building
which exhibits works by Bramante and
Filarete. Also of great historic importance is
Leonardo da Vinci'sThe Last Supper(1498),
a fresco at the Convent of Maria delle
Grazie.
In 1499, the French King Louis XII took
Milan, and for the next thirty-five years, the
city found itself at the center of continuous
battles between France and the Sforza
family. When the incumbent duke of the
Sforza family suddenly died in 1535,
the city passed to Charles V Habsburg
of the Holy Roman Empire. Charles V
passed the duchy of Milan to his son
Philip II, and Spanish rule continued until
the beginning of the 18th Century. The
architectural highlight of this century was
the construction of the Spanish Walls,
which today surround Milan's historical
center. The city's power and prosperity
declined under foreign rule, and in 1630,
the Black Death struck the city and greatly
reduced the population. Finally, after the
War of the Spanish Succession, in 1706
the Savoys of Austria took possession
of the city. Milan began a new phase of
expansion, characterized by fiscal and
ecclesiastic reform, which culminated
in exceptionally rich cultural activity
around 1770. Milan fell under Napoleon
Bonaparte's control, and the population
boomed. It became the capital of the
Cisalpine Republic and reaffirmed its
cultural and economic importance. As part
of Napoleon's architectural and urbanization
plans thecerchia dei bastoni ring road
was built around the historic center. Other
new roads were also built following Paris'
system; these are still used today.
The Austrians again took control of Milan
in the 19th Century. Neither the educated
middle classes nor the lower classes were
happy about Austrian rule and in 1848 there
was a popular insurrection, which ended
with much bloodshed. The Kingdom of Italy
was proclaimed in 1861.
A great deal of the city center dates back
to the beginning of the 20th Century, when
many areas were redesigned and rebuilt.
The city is filled with Fascist"minimalist"
houses in impressive tree-lined avenues,
workers' houses, and"dormitory districts"
which were immense apartment blocks with
no real shops or services nearby. Many of
these estates soon fell into disrepair.
Fortunately, Milan is being transformed
from an ugly duckling into a beautiful swan.
Economic revival has made it a rich and
interesting city. The"moral capital" of Italy
is very different from all the artistic cities
dotted around the country. It is the center
of economic activity in Italy; the country's
Stock Exchange is based here. Milan's
fame is also boosted by its role in the
world of fashion, by the presence of many
industries, its high-tech service sector, and
its cultural innovation. Most of Italy's press
are situated here. One of the major TV
networks- the largest private network in
Italy- has its headquarters at the gates of
Milan.
©
Hotel Insights
Milan:
Milan is without doubt the city of fashion,
shopping and business. Famous fashion
streets such as Via Montenapoleone, Via
della Spiga and Corso Emmanuele II also
have elegant, luxurious and expensive
hotels.
Centro storico
In the centro storico, or the historic center
of the city, there are several options for
those who want to be close to all the
shopping and historical sights located in
downtown. These hotels range from the
affordable to the more pricey, boutique
hotels. The popular Italian chain, Jolly
Hotels, has a lovely branch near the
Duomo- Jolly Hotel President, which has
all the comforts and is quite modern.
The American chain, Hyatt, also offers
accommodation near the Duomo- the Park
Hyatt Milan with ultra-modern facilities
and first-class customer service. If you're
looking for something smaller and unique,
try the Hotel Gran Duca di York, which is
half new construction, half 18th-century
construction.Brera
There are several different areas in Milan
that hold the majority of the hotels, such as
Isola and Brera. The well-heeled area of
Brera is close to the center, the galleries,
and sophisticated boutiques. If you want
to stay here, you might choose l'Antica
Locanda Solferino, a small hotel which has
retained all the charm of old Milan. Another
delightful, and expensive, stop for lodging
is the incredible Bvlgari Hotel, owned by the
famed jeweler Bulgari. If you are traveling
to Brera by metro then you should alight at
Lanza and Moscova on the red line(MM2),
or Cairoli on the green line(MM1).
Ticinese- Navigli A very lively area, the
Navigli canals run through the district,
and jazz bars, clubs and restaurants line
the banks, while on Saturdays there is a
wonderful street market. This is definitely
the place to stay if you want to socialize
and see the more hip, alternative side of
Milan. You might want to stay at the Ariston
Hotel, at the bottom of Via Torino: a three-
star hotel decorated with ecological and
hypoallergenic materials, where smoking
is prohibited. There are many small hotels
18
Milan Snapshot continued
spread out along the Navigli. Some of these
are further from the center, such as the Art
Hotel Navigli- very convenient for those
who come from the autostrada dei Fiori or
Liguria.Amendola-Fiera
This area has many hotels for both
businessmen and tourists, a lot of these
hotels are less expensive but are easy to
reach by train, tram and metro; booking
is advisable, during important events
these hotels are generally full. Many
hotels are to be found in one of the most
residential areas of Milan, close to the
Fiera's pavilions. The Fiera is Milan's Trade
Fair and the surrounding areas are always
very crowded and filled with traffic. The
hotels here are frequented by thousands of
people who use the pavilions and stands
to show their wares. If you head towards
Corso Vercelli, there are two good hotels:
Hotel Metrò at Corso Vercelli, 6 and Capitol
World Class Hotel on the corner of Via
Cimarosa and Corso Vercelli. The Milan
Marriott in the commercial area of Milan is
seen as a safe bet for many tourists.
© On April 16, 1972, an unusual tale
Restaurants Insights
Milan:
Milan may be famous for its shopping,
trading, and amazing designers, but it is
also a great place to enjoy a good meal.
There are many ethnic restaurants,trattorie
and pizzerias in the city, and during the
summer months, it is not unusual to see
groups of friends enjoying their pizza
Margherita as they sit outside under white
parasols.
From after World War II until the 1960s,
mass migration prompted many southern
Italians to move north, towards the
industrialized cities. Some of them decided
to open simpletrattorie(traditional style,
family-operated restaurants), offering the
cuisine of their hometowns, which were
mainly in Tuscany and Southern Italy. A
number of these restaurants grew in quality
over the years, transforming themselves
into excellent and often outstanding
restaurants: places such as Trattoria
Toscana(book in advance in order to
sample their tasty pasta dishes or fresh fish
recipes) and the mythical Antica Trattoria
Milano which opened a few years after the
end of the Second World War and serves
good, hearty foodalla Milanese.
Pizzerias are popular in Milan, many
serving pizzas cooked in wood-fired ovens,
giving the dough a delicious smoked taste.
Some of the pizzerias have traditional
checked tablecloths, outdoor seating, and
paper tablecloths and provide you with
pencils to amuse yourself while waiting for
your pizza or for your bill. A good option is
the Di Gennaro, a popular pizzeria located
downtown, or for fresh fish Il Sambuco is a
sure thing. If you are in search of Italianalta
cucina, or high cuisine, look no further than
the acclaimed Giannino, although it's prices
can be high as well.
A wonderful view of the city can be seen
from Bistrot Duomo, a great place to try if
you want a quick snack and cappuccino
while shopping or a more substantial
meal before going on to the cinema. It is
located at the top of the stylish Rinascente
department store, which gives you
another reason to visit! Another marvelous
restaurant find is Savini, situated nearby in
the breath-taking Galleria Vittorio Emanuele
II. This restaurant is often thought of as one
of the best in Milan, and though the prices
are high, it is worth a visit if only to enjoy
some old-world charm and steep yourself in
Milanese elegance.
In the 1980s and 1990s a new wave
of immigration brought thousands of
people from nearby developing countries,
which led to the growth of the best ethnic
restaurant network in Italy. In Milan you'll
find restaurants serving delights from
almost every country: from Sri Lanka
to Brazil(excellent Brazilian cuisine is
to be found in Ristorante Rio's), Korea
to Senegal. In the last couple of years
Japanese cuisine has rocked the city; Yume
is a testimony to this- it is the place to come
to have a truly Japanese experience.
There is no better way to round off a meal
than to stroll through the central streets
of Milan eating gelato and watching the
world go by, especially if it is a warm
summer evening. Try Marghera where
delicious gelato and desserts are sold
and there are often long lines(always a
good sign); or you could try the excellent
Gelateria Ecologica, which has been
making natural gelato(without artificial
colors or preservatives) since the 1970s.
Bologna:
There is no denying that Bologna is noted
for its academic culture; the presence
of one of the world's oldest universities
here is testament to this fact, but there
are also many other cultural aspects of
which Bologna can be proud. Its cuisine,
for example, never fails to delight visitors
to the city: it has a culinary tradition which
successfully manages to combine the
traditional and the modern while never
sacrificing creativity. For this reason,
Bologna is known as"La Grassa", or the Fat
One.
Puff pastry dishes are extremely
characteristic of Bolognese cuisine.
Other typical dishes include the famous,
aromaticmortadella, tinytortellini in stock
and pale yellowtagliatelle inragù(meat
sauce)- which is a very popular home-
cooked dish.
These tempting, fragrant dishes are always
accompanied by excellent regional wines
including Barbera, Bianco, Cabarnet
Sauvignon, Merlot, Pignoletto, Pinot bianco,
Riesling italico, Lambrusco, Sangiovese,
Albana and Trebbiano Doc.
abouttagliatelle was recorded. Apparently, a
strand of the pasta was made, measured by
experts and found to be 8mm when cooked.
This was worked out to be a decimal
fraction(12,270) of the height of the Torre
dei Asinelli(dei Asinelli Tower). A model of
the strand of pasta was kept in the archives
of the Chamber of Commerce. Many other
bizarre stories such as this one have been
recorded about the legendary Bolognese
sauce.
According to popular legend,tortellini was
invented by a cook who was so enchanted
after having seen Venus's navel, that he
decided to attempt to reproduce it with
his own hands. This legend is echoed in
a poem by Giuseppe Ceri entitled Venus
Navel in which the last verse tells of a
cross-eyed man from Bologna who was
inspired to maketortellini after having seen
Venus's navel!
Porta Piera The historic city center is
full of pubs, pastry shops, ice cream
parlors and small restaurants which serve
up traditional dishes in a friendly, rustic
environment. These include Belle Arti and
Al Caminetto d'Oro are located a stone's
throw from Piazza XVIII Agosto. The city
center is also home to numerous expensive
restaurants which are known throughout the
country, particularly I Carracci where you
can dine onhaute cuisine surrounded by
19
Milan Snapshot continued
beautiful frescoes by the Caracci brothers
themselves. If you take a walk down Via
Indipendenza, one of the most well-known
streets in the city, you will eventually reach
the Ristorante Diana. Not far from here,
down a side street off Via Indipendenza,
you will find Franco Rossi. For great ethnic
cuisine, and close to the train station if
you're near just for a stopover, try Ru Yi for
Chinese or the Piedra del Sol for Mexican.
Porta Stiera One of the most popular
ethnic restaurants in the city is India, which
also has another restaurant in Fiesole, near
Florence.
Porta Ravegnana Not far from the tourist
sights, Pappagallo- which is famous
throughout Italy- is situated near the historic
towers. There are plenty of pizzerias in
Bologna, but it is safe to say that pizzas are
not a big specialty here. As pizza is part of
the southern culinary tradition, it tends to be
more popular down south. Pizzerias in the
city include Il Doge and Piedigrotta, both
near Piazza Maggiore.
©
Nightlife Insights
Milan:
Art& Culture Milan has plenty to offer in
terms of great entertainment, culture and
art… Need a little persuasion? The city
has the famous Pinacoteca di Brera(the
Brera Art Gallery) and the Museo Cenacolo
Vinciano, which houses artefacts relating to
the Leonardo Da Vinci'sLast Supper as well
as the famous fresco itself.
There are a host of museums spread
out all over the city. It would take a
long time to explore all of them; the
Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della
Tecnologia(Museum of Science and
Technology) is a definite must for boffins
and future Einsteins, and will take a good
two hours to see everything. If you only
have time to visit the city center, there
are plenty of museums to see; in fact,
there is a circuit of five museums known
as the"Museums of the Center". These
museums cover everything from the Revival
period(Museo del Risorgimento, Museum
of the Risorgimento) to contemporary
history, stopping at the Museo di Milano,
Museum of the History of Milan. Piazza
Duomo itself has the Duomo Museum, filled
with tapestries, stained glass and clerical
vestments.
Milan is rich with history, and close to the
center stands the Castello Sforzesco,
which has interesting archaeological and
numismatic collections. Again, this can be
quite time-consuming, but you can take
advantage of the gorgeous park behind to
sit and have a picnic before pressing on.
There are also two private homes(Palazzo
Bagatti Valsecchi and Museo Poldi Pezzoli),
perhaps not quite as grand as the Castle
but just as interesting, which have been
turned into museums and display textiles,
furnishings and paintings.
If you prefer art, there are many art
galleries here, such as the Pinacoteca
Ambrosiana, the Civica Galleria d'Arte
Moderna, and the Padiglione d'Arte
Contemporanea. In these museums, you
are bound to find paintings, sculptures
and sketches to suit your tastes and
you will always find a new exhibition
somewhere.Theatre& Music
If you are more interested in the theater
and opera, one name springs to mind:
the world-famous Scala; but the city has
many other theaters, offering hundreds of
shows. The principle theaters include: the
traditional Teatro San Babila, the Piccolo
Teatro, founded by Strehler, and the Teatro
Franco Parenti, which has devoted recent
seasons to European culture. Milan has
also recently rediscovered its passion
for ballet and big-name musicals, such
asSingin' in the Rain,The Sound of Music
and the eternalRocky Horror Show. Many
of these are staged at the Teatro Ventaglio
Nazionale and Teatro Ventaglio Smeraldo.
Milan is a city of music, too. If you like
classical music, then the Scala is home
to a major symphony orchestra. Both the
Conservatorio and the Chiostro host lyrical
concerts. Jazz and Blues can be heard
wafting down the Navigli canal from places
such as Scimmie, home to modern jazz.
For the more youthful, there are lots of
discotheques, often playing live music, and
many of the stadiums outside the city are
used for major concerts.
Cinema
Cinema is also very popular in Milan; the
center of town is filled with multi-screens,
which are always busy. There are also
multiplexes on the outskirts(with much
better parking facilities than the center) that
show blockbusters, but there are also many
independents that show original language
and experimental films, and these cinemas
have a charm and a décor all their own!
Nightlife
Milan has a lively, dynamic atmosphere day
and night. The most crowded and trendiest
nightspots are in the Brera, Ticinese and
Navigli districts. Most of the fashionable
bars are in Ticinese. The Navigli area is
considered by some to be slightly retro,
but is still adored by many; filled with lots
of"boho" bars, it is just the place to go with
a group of friends or in the company of your
paramour. Brera and Isola are known as
Milan's original hotspots; every bar here is
fantastic. Glamor oozes from every door
and this is a great area for an evening stroll.
There is a huge amount of choice when it
comes to clubs, discos and bars. Thursdays
are best at De Sade, Friday is the day to go
to Shocking Club and Hollywood is cool any
time, any day!
Milan is so cosmopolitan that it has
something for everyone; you are strongly
advised to go and explore this incredible
city.
Bologna:
Bologna is a city which has developed
along fairly harmonious lines – obviously
with its fair share of problems and
contradictions – in terms of developing
appropriate architectural structures and
buildings to suit its citizens' way of life and
recreational needs.
The city has many things going for it: it is
strategically located on the road network
which links the north to the south, it is a
cultural center and home of the oldest
university in Europe, it is the industrial
capital of the Pianura Padana region and
it is removed from the chaos of the capital
and the large Northern industrial cities,
which means it is not paralyzed by traffic
problems. It is easy to get around on foot,
by bicycle, on a bus, a scooter and in a
car(although this is not recommended for
getting around the historic city center).
This small, ancient, carefully-preserved
city is full of churches, museums, theaters
and thousands of other hidden treasures.
It isthe place to come if you want to
totally immerse yourself in culture. It
is also the city of the famous carnival
mask"Dr. Balanzone", of raucous students,
of markets and fairs, and oftortellini
andmortadella. In short, good food and
entertainment are never hard to find here.
20
Milan Snapshot continued
Bologna's Taverns In 1300, Bologna
was already one of the most densely
populated cities in Europe, and contained
around 150 taverns. This impressive
figure probably had a lot to do with the
massive influx of students of all nationalities
who came here to study at its prestigious
university. The cream of European youth
would visit these taverns to sit around and
have long discussions, while munching
on sausages andmortadella and drinking
copious amounts of wine. They would come
to sing theGaudeamus Igitur and other
student songs, to be ironic and irreverent,
sometimes even scurrilous in their attitude
towards authority, the clergy and their
professors. Students, artists, hardened
drinkers, and famous intellectuals(such as
Olindo Guerrini and Giosuè Carducci) alike
could be found in these taverns and bars
every day.
Between the two world wars, many of these
taverns disappeared, but the Bolognese
still retained a penchant for drinking and
socializing. Today, there are over 200
taverns, wine bars, beer gardens and pubs
in the city. One of the most traditional and
characteristic taverns is the Osteria del
Sole, while the oldest are probably Osteria
da Mario and Osteria della Fondazza which
both have a very simple charm.
However, there are also several taverns
which have decided to go upmarket and
become refined and elegant; these have
transformed themselves into rustic-style
restaurants, such as Osteria Piazza
Grande, Osteria dei Poeti, Osteria del
Brancaleone, Osteria Santa Caterina and
Osteria dello Scorpione.
The pedestrian zone on Via del Pratello is
traditionally an extremely popular meeting
place. It is situated away from the hustle
and bustle of the traffic and is often the
scene of shows and seasonal markets.
Characterized by its low doorways and
streets paved in stone, the area is home
to a number of pubs and bars including
Birreria del Pratello, Monastero, Mutenye,
Il Rovescio, as well as social, cultural and
recreational groups such as Circolo Pavese
and also several bars which have managed
to maintain the old-fashioned charm of
working-class pubs such as Barazzo and
Osvaldo.
A couple of meters away is the beautiful
Piazza San Francesco on which stands
the Gothic church of the same name. In
front this is the Bar De' Marchi- the sort of
Bologna is also the home of many great
place where you can still play cards and
singers. It has always been an important
challenge veteran players to a game.
center for pop music, and has seen artists
In the university district, there are numerous such as Francesco Guccini and Lucio Dalla
pubs which are always full of young people, as well as many other groups and young
who flock here in the late afternoon to take bands rise up out of obscurity and make
advantage of the happy hour during which the big time. There are several clubs which
they drink and chat. At the two opposite although not overly spacious, have always
ends of Via Zamboni, there is an Irish pub- hosted pop concerts, such as Il Covo and
Clauricane Irish Pub- and an English pub- Officina Estragon.
The Lord Lister's English Pub. Also on Via
Cinema In this century, the Emilia
Zamboni is Caffè del Museo which offers
Romagna region has shown itself to be
one of the most popular happy hours in the
– in the words of film historian Renzo
city every Thursday night.
Renzi –"the land of cinema". Many famous
On Via delle Belle Arti, you will find an directors have worked and produced their
Italian-style pub- Contavalli. On Via Borgo best work here in Emilia Romagna and
San Pietro stands the Corto Maltese, Bologna. These include luminaries such
a"discopub" that is always very busy and as Michelangelo Antonioni, Pupi Avati,
stays open until late and Le Stanze(del Bernardo Bertolucci and Federico Fellini.
Tenente), an elegant cocktail bar housed
Bologna therefore became an important
inside the Palazzo Bentivoglio. Finally, on
center for cinematographic culture. This
Via Mascarella you will find Naked- a small,
was further strengthened in the 1960s and
alternative pub which presents a different
1970s with the founding of the Cinema
DJ every night, the more elegant Bravo
Commission(by Renato Zanghieri) and the
Café and Cantina Bentivoglio- a wine bar
institution of the DAMS – a degree course
serving food that has been hosting live jazz
based on contemporary arts, music and
performances every night for the last ten
drama, with particular reference to cinema.
years.
This cinematographic culture is of course
Music 18th and 19th century music in
provided for the benefit of the public.
Bologna is associated with great figures
Bologna probably has the highest number
such as Father Martini, Gioachino Rossini,
of passionate cinema-goers in the whole
Richard Wagner(who became an honorary
country – it definitely has the largest
citizen of Bologna), Ferruccio Busoni
number of cinemas. This is probably
and Ottorino Respighi. Antonio Bibiena
partially due to the activities of the Cineteca
left the city his masterpiece – the Teatro
Communale which attempted to promote
Comunale, which was inaugurated on May
cinema-going with the construction of a
26, 1763 with the performance ofIl Trionfo
major cinema – Il Lumière- which showed
di Clelia. Melodramas have been staged
re-runs of an extensive range of both
in this magnificent theater from the 18th
classical and contemporary classics for
Century through to the present day. The
people to re-discover.
repertoire of opera and symphonies at the
Teatro Comunale, as well as the work of The Cineteca Communale also organizes a
the Conservatory and the Bologna Festival variety of festivals. These include:Cinema
have kept the city's passion for classical Ritrovato- an open-air summer festival
music very much alive. which screened masterpieces of silent
cinema to the accompaniment of live
However, Bologna also has a strong
music,Future Film Festival which,
attraction to jazz, and many famous
since a few years ago has been taking
international jazz musicians have graced its
place annually. This festival details
stages: from Chet Baker, Steve Grossman
new cinematographic technologies and
and Bill Frisell to Richard Galliano. The
developments in the world of animation. A
Bologna jazz circuit covers a number of
couple of major non-commercial cinemas
pubs and bars that are convinced that
in Bologna which are worth a visit are
good wine and good music should go
il Roma and Adriano. The latter also
hand in hand. These include Cantina
shows a cycle of films in their original
Bentivoglio, Chet Baker Jazz Club and
language entitledManiamerica. The Medusa
Osteria dell'Orsa.
Multicinema is a futuristic, multi-screened
cinema which predominantly features
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Milan Snapshot continued
Hollywood blockbusters. Its brand-new
rooms offer extreme comfort and the best
new technologies with regard to sound and
picture quality.
Theatre Theatre is very popular in
Bologna: the university hosts various
initiatives, there are numerous theatre
schools, the repertoires are varied and
the public is enthusiastic. Many interesting
events and meetings are organized here all
the time. The city's main theatre is Arena
del Sole. The restoration work- finished in
1996- gave rise to a spacious theater split
into two rooms: the larger room is dedicated
to major performances featuring world-
famous artists and the smaller one- Sala
Interaction- is given over to experimental
work and avant-garde theater. One of
the oldest theaters in the city is Teatro
Duse which is part of the Ente Teatrale
Italiano(Italian Theatre Association).
Another historic theatre is Teatro delle
Moline, which is extremely small(it has
a capacity of 50) but very successful. It
is used by the artistic directors Marinella
Manicardi and Prof. Gozzi(a DAMS
graduate) for experimental work featuring
predominantly Italian artists.
Teatro Dehon and Teatro delle Celebrazioni
offer more commercial shows, particularly
the latter which tends to put on musicals
and cabaret shows. A more elite and
intellectual audience can go and see avant-
garde repertoires at Teatri di Vita, which
also stages contemporary dance shows.
Children's theatre is not overlooked: Testoni
Ragazzi- a theater and arts center for
children and young people- offers a series
of shows and workshops for children. There
are also many other theaters in the rest of
the province, where theatre-going is no less
popular. These include Teatro Consorziale
di Budrio.
© small Lombardy restaurant, that is very
Things to Do Insights
Milan:
There are many different areas in Milan
to explore, but a great place to start is
Brera, because it is a district that is famed
for its nightlife and restaurants, but also
has art galleries to visit in the day and
glorious palaces that played an important
role in Milan's history. Even if you cannot
enter these palaces(because they are still
private residences or offices), you can still
drink in their beauty from the outside, as
you wander down the narrow streets. It is
best to take the Metro to reach Brera. The
nearest stops are Lanza, Moscova(line 2)
and Cairoli(line 1).
There are a number of things to do
during the day in Brera, such as visit the
Pinacoteca di Brera(the Brera Art Gallery),
which is found in the same building as
the Academy of Brera, Milan's School of
Fine Arts. This gallery has 30 rooms of
paintings from different eras. Not to miss
are Mantegna'sDead Christ,Madonna and
the Saints by Piero della Francesca, or
theWedding of the Virgin by Raffaello.
Those who prefer to occupy their time with
lighter pursuits can visit various art galleries
around the Via Centrale and surrounding
streets of Via Ciovasso and Monte di
Pietà. There are antique shops and shops
selling quality handmade goods, and on
Via Solferino and Corso Garibaldi you can
browse in some exquisite boutiques. If
you feel guilty about all of the purchases
you have made, indulge in your shopper's
remorse while wandering alongside the
peaceful Martesana Canal(Leonardo da
Vinci allegedly designed the locks). As
mentioned before, the real attraction of
Brera is its nightlife; once made up of piano
bars, the district is now full of bars and
restaurants. The Jamaica, at the end of
Via Brera, was popular with intellectuals in
the 1960s, and is still a good place for an
aperitif. There's also Moscatelli, a small bar
with a huge choice of wines, and El Tombon
de San Marc, the first English pub in Milan,
which also serves sandwiches, cold dishes
and salads.
Brera also has good restaurants, which
thankfully stay open until late. In the same
street at number 24 is the Latteria di San
Marco, a very famous and very crowded
affordable. Also popular is La Libera in
Via Palermo, which serves traditional
Italian food, and La Briciola on the corner
of Via Solferino and Via Marsala, which
serves outstanding soup, something
which Milanese restaurants are not often
commended for! Brera also has a wide
choice of international cuisine.
Brera is a definitely a gem of a district
waiting to be discovered by night owls
and"morning people" alike.
If you are in the heart of thecentro storico,
stop by the famous Duomo, which began
construction towards the end of the 14th
Century. The restoration and cleaning
of the facade began in 2004 and was
recently completed. Nearby is the world-
renowned Teatro alla Scala, site of the
premieres of such famous operas asNorma
by Vincenzo Bellini,Otello by Giuseppe
Verdi, andMadama Butterfly andTurandot
by Giacomo Puccini.
©
Travel Tips
Milan:
Getting There
Air Milan is served by three airports.
Malpensa Airport(MXP)(+ 39 02 748 5220/
http://www.sea-aeroportimilano.it/), the
largest, handles more than 16 million
passengers a year, and is the farthest(30
miles) from the city center. The airport
closest to the city is Linate(+39 02 7485
2200/ http://www.sea-aeroportimilano.it/),
about 20 minutes from downtown
Milan(mostly serving budget airlines and
other inner European flights). The third
airport is Orio al Serio(+39 02 7485 2200/
http://www.sea-aeroportimilano.it/), which
is about a 45 minute drive from Milan.
Malpensa Airport hosts the following
airlines:
Air Canada( +1 888 247 2262/ http://
www.aircanada.ca/) Air China( +86 4008
100 999/ http://www.airchina.com.cn/)
Air France( +1 800 871 1366/ http://
www.airfrance.com/) Aer Lingus( +1 800
474 7424/http://www.aerlingus.com/)
Alitalia( +1 800 223 5730/ http://
www.alitalia.com/) American Airlines( +1
800 433 7300/ http://www.aa.com/)
British Airways( +1 800 247 9297/
http://www.ba.com/) Condor( +1 800
524 6975/ http://www7.condor.com/)
Continental( +1 800 231 0856/ http://
www.continental.com/) Delta( +1 800
221 1212/ http://www.delta.com/)
easyJet( +44 870 600 0000/ http://
www.easyjet.com/) Finnair( +1 800
950 5000/ http://www.finnair.com/)
Germanwings( +44 870 252 12 50/ http://
www1.germanwings.com/) Iberia( +1 800
772 4642/ http://www.iberia.com/) Jet
2( +44 207 150 0374/ http://www.jet2.com/)
Lufthansa( +1 800 645 3880/ http://
www.lufthansa.com/) Northwest( +1
800 225 2525/ http://www.nwa.com/)
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Milan Snapshot continued
US Airways( +1 800 622 1015/ http://
www.usairways.com/)
Getting from Malpensa(MXP) to Milan
Train: The Malpensa Express train(http://
www.malpensaexpress.it/) runs from the
airport terminal 1 to platforms 1 and 2 at
Cadorna train station every 27 and 57
minutes after the hour. Tickets are EUR 11
or EUR 13.50 on-board one-way(40 minute
journey) or EUR 14.50 or EUR 17 on-board
round trip.
Shuttle: The Malpensa Shuttle( http://
www.malpensashuttle.it/) departs from
Stazione Centrale di Milano on the hour
and every 20 and 40 minutes after the hour;
a one-way ticket runs EUR 6 one-way(50
minute journey) or EUR 10 round trip.
Air Pullman(+39 02 5858 3202/ http://
airpullman.com/) operates a shuttle
between the airport and Stazione Centrale,
Milan Fiera, Milan Lampugnano and Piazza
Castello. They also have service between
Malpensa and Linate airports.
Car Rentals: From the Malpensa Airport,
take the A8 or A26 to Milan. Rental Car
companies include:
Alamo( +1 800 327 9633/ http://
www.alamo.com/) Dollar( +1 800 4000/
http://www.dollar.com/) Thrifty(+1 800 367
2277/ http://www.thrifty.com/)
Getting from Milano Linate(LIN) to Milan
Shuttle: The Malpensa Shuttle(http://
www.malpensashuttle.it/) also operates
service between Linate and Stazione
Centrale di Milano, as well as a service
between the two airports.
Bus: Bus 73 runs from the airport to metro
station San Babila(MM1, red line) and just
one stop from the Duomo.
Train
Stazione Centrale di Milano is one of
Europe's main train stations. The building,
inaugurated in 1931, is an architectural
wonder; Vittorio Emanuele III himself laid
the cornerstone in 1906. It is, therefore
not surprising that you can get to just
about anywhere in Italy or Europe from
this hub. For more information about Italy's
rail system, visit their website at:http://
www.ferroviedellostato.it/.
Getting Around
Public Transport
Public Transportation The ATM(Azienda
Trasporti Milanesi) manages the
metropolitan area of Milan with extensive
railway, tram, trolley and bus lines.( http://
www.atm-mi.it/)
Milan's subway system orMetropolitana
has three lines: Linea 1(red), Linea
2(green), and Linea 3(yellow). The urban
rail,Passante Ferroviario is blue. As
throughout the rest of Italy, tickets can be
purchased at newsstands,tabacchi, or from
machines in certain areas. The price for a
ticket is EUR 1, but one(EUR 3) and two-
day(EUR 5.50) passes are also available
and are a great option if you plan to use
the system a lot. Tickets must be validated
by the rider at the time of their use, and
they are valid 75 minutes from the time
they are stamped. Make sure to stamp
your ticket as public transport is often
checked by controllers and non-validated
tickets can result in unpleasant experiences
and hefty fines. If you plan to ride more
than once, consider a tourist pass, or just
buy a few tickets at once to use when
needed. Most of the main sites are located
downtown, and are within easy walking
distance from the Duomo metro stop. For
those traveling to other parts of the city, the
modern subway system is a great option,
but trains stop running at midnight. Trams,
trolleys, and buses operate lines all night,
see ATM's website for more information and
route details.
Taxi
Taxis can be hailed on the streets, although
it can be difficult to actually get one to stop.
Taxi ranks are found in the center and
throughout the city; these are a much better
bet. Taxis are usually white or yellow, and
the main companies are Radiotaxi( +39
02 6767 or 5353) and Autoradio( +39 02
8585). If you call for a taxi, be forewarned
that the meter starts as soon as the call
is received. Even so, they are not as
expensive as many other European cities
and can be a great way to get around.
©
Fun Facts
Milan:
MilanProvince: LombardyCountry: Italy
Milan By The Numbers:
Population: 1,300,000(city);
7,400,000(metropolitan)
Elevation: 211 m/ 692 ft
Average Annual Precipitation: 97 cm/ 38.3
in
Average January Temperature: 2°C/ 35°F
Average July Temperature: 22°C/ 72°F
Quick Facts:
Major Industries: Textile manufacturing,
Chemical manufacturing, Food
manufacturing, Tourism, Shipbuilding
Electricity: 220 volts, 50Hz, round two- or
three-pin plugs
Time Zone: GMT+1
Country Dialing Code:+39
Area Code: 02
Did You Know?
Milan is the fashion center of the world.
The leading designers of apparel and
accessories are headquartered or have
major operations here, including Gucci,
Prada, Armani, Versace, and Dolce&
Gabbana.
Teatro alla Scala is one of Europe's major
Opera houses with a capacity of more than
2,000 seats.
©
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