Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship

Table of contents
About this document ........................................................................................................... iii
Styles and icons .................................................................................................................... iv

Introduction ............................................................................................................. 1
Our objective ...............................................................................................................1
What are standards? ....................................................................................................1
Contact ........................................................................................................................ 1

Legal requirements ................................................................................................. 2

Labelling and ticketing ..................................................................................................2
Woolmark/ Woolblend mark .....................................................................................2
Attached trims .............................................................................................................2

Standards.................................................................................................................. 3
Introduction .................................................................................................................3
Accessories, motifs, prints and trims ............................................................................3
Belt loops .....................................................................................................................3
Bindings ........................................................................................................................ 3
Body dimensions—infants.............................................................................................. 4
Body dimensions—toddlers ........................................................................................... 4
Body dimensions—girls .................................................................................................4
Body dimensions—boys ................................................................................................ 4
Body dimensions—ladies ............................................................................................... 5
Body dimensions—ladies’ full figure ..............................................................................5
Body dimensions—men’s general outerwear and underwear .......................................5
Body dimensions—men’s garments to cover the lower body .......................................6
Body dimensions—stout men’s garments to cover the lower body .............................. 6
Body dimensions—multiple fitting (tailored) outwear ...................................................6
Buttons ......................................................................................................................... 6
Buttonholes ..................................................................................................................7
Buttons and buttonholes .............................................................................................. 7
Collars/neck opening ...................................................................................................7
Cuffs and basques.........................................................................................................7

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 Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship

Drawcords ................................................................................................................... 8
Facings ......................................................................................................................... 8
Fitted waist bands ........................................................................................................ 8
Fly and zipper openings ............................................................................................... 8
General appearance ..................................................................................................... 9
Head openings ............................................................................................................. 9
Hems ........................................................................................................................... 9
Interlinings ................................................................................................................... 9
Linings ........................................................................................................................ 10
Metal press studs and buckles .................................................................................... 10
Pile fabric ................................................................................................................... 10
Placement prints ........................................................................................................ 10
Pockets ...................................................................................................................... 11
Pressing...................................................................................................................... 11
Ribs ............................................................................................................................ 11
Seam construction ..................................................................................................... 11
Seam finishes ............................................................................................................. 12
Sewing threads .......................................................................................................... 12
Shoulder pads ............................................................................................................ 12
Splits .......................................................................................................................... 12
Stitching ..................................................................................................................... 13
Straps......................................................................................................................... 13
Studs, eyelets and button sewing ............................................................................... 13
Tolerances ................................................................................................................. 13
Waist band hook and bar .......................................................................................... 14
Zippers ...................................................................................................................... 14

Reference documents ........................................................................................... 15

Introduction ............................................................................................................... 15
Notes ................................................................................................................................. 16
Your comments .................................................................................................................. 19

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 Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship

About this document

Who is it for? This document is for:
buyers
suppliers
agents
Kmart Quality Team.

What is it about? This document explains the minimum standards for apparel
construction and performance.

Where to file it File this document in a safe, accessible place.

Copyright Commercial-in-Confidence
Copyright © 2010
Kmart Australia Limited
ABN 73 004 700 485
Communication or reproduction of any part of this document is
not permitted without the prior written approval of Kmart
Australia Limited.


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 Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship

Styles and icons

What are styles and A style is a way of representing text so that it stands out.
icons?
An icon is a sign or symbol that replaces words to identify a
special situation.
The table below describes the styles and icons used in this
document.

This document uses… to show… Example

italic text references to other documents. Refer to Standard Fabric Performance

Requirements for Apparel—Revised
Specification for more information.

! that the reader should pay special To guarantee safety is a priority,

attention to the text. ensure all drawcord guidelines are
followed.

 the section continues over the page.

 the end of a section.

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Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship Introduction

Introduction
Our objective This document is designed to ensure that all internal and
external Kmart Quality Team customers and staff have a
common understanding of our standards.
The standards objective is to deliver quality merchandise to the
customer. It applies to all categories of apparel and textiles.

What are standards?
The standards specified are minimum standards, and provide
guidelines for apparel construction and performance to achieve
consumer satisfaction.
Ensure all users of this standard are aware that a number of
areas covered may be subject to mandatory legal requirements.
All suppliers to Kmart must ensure that the merchandise they
supply complies with the requirements of the law.

Contact If you need any further clarification on any of the standards,

contact:
Kmart Quality Team
L3, 690 Springvale Road
Mulgrave Victoria 3170
Australia
Tel: (03) 9902 2000


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Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship Legal requirements

Legal requirements
Labelling and The following legal requirements must be followed when
ticketing labelling and ticketing apparel:
All garments must contain the following information on a
sewn label:
brand name
size
country of origin
care instructions
fibre content.
The correct fire label must be attached in the position
specified in AS/NZS 1249: 1999, to all initial samples of
children’s sleepwear submitted for quality control assessment.
All approved production garments must have identical
labelling.
All garments manufactured overseas must have the country
of origin on the label. This is a requirement of the Australian
Customs Department.
All items and garments sold in New Zealand must have the
country of origin on the label, even if manufactured in New
Zealand.

Woolmark/ The following guidelines apply to the garments with the

Woolblend mark Woolmark/Woolblend mark:
Obtain care labels, swing tickets and stickers from the
International Wool Secretariat (IWS). Indicate that the stock
is for the Australian market.
Only manufacturers who are licensed by the IWS can use the
Woolmark/Woolblend mark. They must only use it on
products that meet the specifications laid down by the IWS.
The percentage of each fibre type used in a garment intended
for the Woolblend mark must be shown on the label.
State the percentage of wool in the garment first, and then
other fibres in descending order of amount. For example,
50% Wool, 30% Nylon, 20% Mohair.

Attached trims Infants and toddlers’ wear with attached trims, such as novelty
buttons and accessories, that are smaller than 32 mm in
diameter, must be able to withstand the minimum pulling force
of 70 newtons.
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Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship Standards

Standards
Introduction The standards are listed alphabetically. The following section
contains explanations of the minimum standards for apparel
construction and performance.

Accessories, motifs, The following standards apply:

prints and trims All accessories, motifs, prints and trims must perform in
accordance with the relevant fabric performance standard and
care instructions selected for the garment.
Securely attach trims and motifs with no puckering. Conceal
all raw edges.
Embroidery must be neat and clean on the reverse side. Clip
and remove all loose threads on embroidery.
Securely attach fused motifs using correct time, temperature
and pressure. The fusing process must not leave impressions,
have adhesive strike through or distort garments.
Trims and accessories must not have exposed sharp edges or
sharp points.

Belt loops The following standards apply:

Securely attach belt loops at bottom.
Neatly clip the loose ends of loops short to give a good
appearance.

Bindings The following standards apply:

Finish bindings to a neat and flat appearance.
Bindings must be free of joins.
Binding seams must not crack or come apart.
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Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship Standards

Body dimensions— The following table provides the body dimensions for infants’
infants garments.

Size 00000 0000 000 00 0 1 2 3

Height (cms) 52 56 62 68 76 84 92 100
To fit weight (kg) 3 4 6 8 10 12 – –
To fit chest (cms) – – – – – – 56 58
Age (months) prem newborn 0–3 3–6 6–12 12–18 – –

Body dimensions— The following table provides the body dimensions for toddlers’
toddlers garments.

Size 2 3 4 5 6 7

Height (cms) 92 100 108 115 120 125

To fit chest (cms) 56 58 60 62 64 66
To fit waist (cms) 54 55 56 57 58 59

Body dimensions— The following table provides the body dimensions for girls’
girls garments.

Size 7 8 10 12 14 16
Height (cms) 125 130 140 150 160 165
To fit chest (cms) 66 68 74 80 86 90
To fit waist (cms) 59 60 62 64 66 70

Body dimensions— The following table provides the body dimensions for boys’
boys garments.

Size 7 8 10 12 14 16 18
Height (cms) 125 130 140 150 160 170 180
To fit chest (cms) 66 68 72 76 80 86 92
To fit waist (cms) 59 60 64 68 72 76 80

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Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship Standards

Body dimensions— The following table provides the body dimensions for ladies’
ladies garments.

Size 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
To fit bust (cms) 85 90 95 100 105 110 115
To fit waist (cms) 65 70 75 80 85 90 95
To fit hip (cms) 90 95 100 105 110 115 120

Body dimensions— The following table provides the body dimensions for ladies’ full
ladies’ full figure figure garments.

Size 16F 18F 20F 22F 24F 26F

To fit bust (cms) 110 115 120 125 130 135
To fit waist (cms) 95 100 105 110 115 120
To fit hip (cms) 115 120 125 130 135 140

Body dimensions— The following table provides the body dimensions for men’s
men’s general garments.
outerwear and
underwear

Size XS S M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL 5XL 6XL

To fit chest (cms) 85 90 95 100 105 110 115 120 125 130
To fit waist (cms) 75 80 85 90 95 100 105 110 115 120

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Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship Standards

Body dimensions— The following table provides the body dimensions for men’s
men’s garments to pants and shorts.
cover the lower body

Size S M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL 5XL 6XL

3 4 5 6 7 8

74R 77R 79R 82R 84R 87R 92R 97R 102R 107R 112R 117R 122R
To fit waist 74 77 79 82 84 87 92 97 102 107 112 117 122
(cms)
To fit in leg 71 74 74 77 77 79 82 83 84 84 84 84 84
(cms)

Body dimensions— The following table provides the body dimensions for stout
stout men’s men’s pants and shorts.
garments to cover
the lower body

Size 4S 5S 6S

92ST 97ST 102ST

To fit chest (cms) 92 97 102

To fit waist (cms) 74 77 79

Body dimensions— The following table provides the body dimensions for men’s
multiple fitting suits.
(tailored) outwear

Size 87 92 97 102 107 112 117 122

To fit chest (cms) 87 92 97 102 107 112 117 122
To fit waist (cms) 77 82 87 92 97 102 107 112

Buttons The following standards apply:

All buttons must be in accordance with the relevant fabric
performance standard and the care instructions selected for
the garment.
Each button must be securely attached to garments with at
least 16 stitches.
Fast dye all buttons to prevent dye from running.


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Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship Standards

Buttonholes The following standards apply:

Stitch density of buttonholes must have full edge cover with
no fraying.
Cleanly cut buttonholes and trim all threads.
Tie off and secure stitches, where using a single thread
chain-stitch buttonhole. Do not use slip stitches in the side
bars.
Position buttonholes correctly to prevent unfastening,
dragging and gaping.

Buttons and The following standards apply to button and buttonhole

buttonholes positioning:
Buttonholes must be the correct size for the button.
Position buttons for horizontal buttonholes in the end closest
to the edge of the garment.
Position buttons for vertical buttonholes central to the
buttonhole.
Align buttons and buttonholes to match from the top to the
bottom of the garment.

Collars/neck opening The following standards apply:

All interlinings used in collars must be in accordance with the
relevant fabric performance standard and the care
instructions selected for the garment.
The top collar must cover the under collar when it is finished.
Linking used to attach neckbands and collars must stretch to
achieve the neck opening specified. Refer to ‘Head openings’
on page 9.
The collar must cover the back neck seam when it is turned
down.
Collar and lapel points must be symmetrical and match.

Cuffs and basques The following standards apply:

Distribute the gathering evenly where the body fabric is
gathered into cuffs and basques.
Ribbed cuffs must have sufficient extension to accommodate
the wrist and recover to original size. For example, to be
reinforced with elastane.
Stripes, checks and borders must be the same on the right
side cuff and left side cuff.


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Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship Standards

Drawcords Drawcords for children’s wear size 00000 to 16 year olds must
meet the following requirements:

General guidelines
Drawcord ends must not extend more than 25 cm from the
garment.
Elastic and stretch cord are considered as a high risk material
when used as a drawcord.
Mock drawcords are acceptable.
! To guarantee safety is a priority, ensure all drawcord guidelines
are followed.

Neck openings
Secure the drawcord at the centre back neck to prevent
movement.

Hood openings
Secure the drawcord at the centre top of the hood to prevent
movement.

Waist openings for pants, shorts and skirts

Secure the drawcord at the centre back of the waist to prevent
movement.

Pant, short and skirt hems

This is a high risk area of the garment. Safety and garment
design for the individual must be considered at all times when
drawcords are used.

Top and sleeve hems

This is a high risk area of the garment. Safety and garment
design for the individual must be considered at all times when
drawcords are used.

Facings Facings must not roll outwards.

Fitted waist bands Waistbands must not buckle or roll outwards.

Fly and zipper The following standards apply:

openings Securely back-stitch or bar-tack the base of the fly.
Excess fabric must not restrict slider movement.


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Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship Standards

General appearance The following standards apply:

Twisted panels or seams are unacceptable.
Where garments have full front openings, the fronts must
finish level at the hem opening.
All gathering must be evenly distributed and even from
side-to-side.
Garments must be properly trimmed, cleaned and loose
threads removed.
Shading from panel to panel, within the same garment, is
unacceptable.

Head openings All head openings (neck circumference stretched) must stretch
to accommodate the following minimum measurements:
Size 00000—42 cm
Size 0000—44 cm
Size 000—46 cm
Size 00—48 cm
Size 0—50 cm
Size 1—52 cm
Size 2—54 cm
Size 3 and above (toddlers, boys, girls, mens, ladies)—must
stretch to a minimum of 56 cm.

Hems The following standards apply:

Hems are flat and even in depth without twisting or roping.
Blind stitched and welted hems must have the correct depth
of needle penetration to minimise strike through and the
visibility of stitches on the outer fabric.

Interlinings The following standards apply:

All interlinings must be in accordance with the relevant fabric
performance standard and the care instructions selected for
the garment.
Dark colour fabric must have dark interlining and light colour
fabric must have light interlining.
All fused interlinings must be securely attached to the base
fabric.
Conceal interlinings and ensure they do not show beyond the
base fabric.
Interlinings must not show through the fabric (strike
through).
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Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship Standards

Linings The following standards apply:

Twisting of the lining is unacceptable.
The size of the lining used must be consistent with the
dimensions of the outer garment shell. For example, the
crotch length of a pant lining must be correctly graded to
ensure a comfortable fit and be compatible with the body of
the pant.

Metal press studs The following standards apply:

and buckles All metal press studs and buckles must be in accordance with
the Standard Fabric Performance Requirements for Apparel—Revised
Specification.
Metal press studs and buckles must:
not rust
not have sharp edges or burring.

Pile fabric The following standards apply to pile fabric; for example,
velveteens and corduroys:
The following is unacceptable in pile fabrics:
pressing marks
presser foot marks
feeder damage
glazing
crushed pile.
The fabric pile of each panel in the garment must lie in the
same direction to avoid shade defects.

Placement prints
All garments with placement printing, puff or plastisol prints use
the following statements in the care instruction label:
‘Warm iron on reverse side’
‘Do not dry clean’.
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Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship Standards

Pockets The following standards apply:

Ensure pocket flaps are securely attached.
Completely conceal all drill holes and chalk marks used for
positioning pockets and flaps.
Do not allow puckering to occur when attaching patch
pockets.
Fabric used in pocket bags must be of relevant weight and
strength. Refer to Standard Fabric Performance Requirements for
Apparel—Revised Specification for more information.
Minimum openings for sideseam pockets are:
children—10 cm
adults—15 cm.
Ends of sideseam pockets must be caught into seams or
reinforced at the top and bottom.
Pocket facings must not roll out or show lining.
Pocket jet welts must not gape or be stretched when finished.
Pockets are symmetrical.
Pockets must match left and right side.

Pressing The following is unacceptable when pressing garments:

Creasing, glazing and harsh pressing.
Pressing marks.

Ribs The following standards apply:

Reinforce any cuffs, basques or ribs with elastomeric yarn.
Elasticity of rib must be acceptable to stretch and recovery.

Seam construction The following standards apply:

Seams must be strong enough to withstand a reasonable pull.
Refer to Standard Fabric Performance Requirements for Apparel—
Revised Specification for more information.
Threads must match the colour of the base fabric.


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Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship Standards

Seam finishes The following standards apply:

All cover stitches must be even and the density properly
balanced.
When working with knitted or stretch fabrics, use a ball point
needle to avoid causing needle damage.
When working with stretch fabrics, choose a suitable stretch
thread and sewing procedure to accommodate the stretch of
the base fabric.
Latch back yarn or sewing thread at the end of seams.
Secure all plain machine starts and ends by back-stitching.
Seams must be free of puckering and grinning.
Cracking of seams (breaking) is unacceptable.

Sewing threads The following standards apply:

Do not use monofilament thread.
The sewing thread must be compatible with the fabric and
the intended end use of the garment in the following areas:
breaking strength
elasticity
colour-fastness
shrink resistance
heat resistance.
Use the same yarn for the base fabric in knitted garments for
linking unless the tensile strength is insufficient. For example,
jumpers and cardigans.
Match all sewing threads to the body fabric unless otherwise
specified. In case of prints or splicing, match the thread to
the predominant colour.

Shoulder pads The following standards apply:

Do not use yellowed or discoloured shoulder pads.
Correctly and evenly position shoulder pads.

Splits Reinforce the top of the split to prevent tearing.



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Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship Standards

Stitching The following table outlines the minimum number of stitches

required for each class of garment:

Fabric construction or Garment examples No of stitches per 2.5 cm

fabric type (minimum)
Woven fabric; for example, Shirts, blouses, dresses, pants, skirts, 10–12
crepe, voile, fugiette, twill, drill, shorts
gingham, gabardine, jacquard,
madras and flannelette
Denim Jeans, trousers, skirts, shorts, overalls, 8–10
jackets, shirts
Canvas Jeans, trousers, skirts, shorts, overalls, Two rows of 8–10
jackets, shirts
Knitted fabric; for example, T-shirts, leggings, shorts, sports and 14–16
jersey, rib, interlock, terry, gym gear, dresses, pyjamas, rompers
waffle and fleece
Fabric with elastomeric Swimwear, sports and gym gear, 16–18
leggings
Tactel fabric; for example, light Track pants, tracksuits, shorts, jackets 14–15
weight parachute

Straps The following standards apply:

Produce straps on overalls/pinafores with folded edges or
turned through.
Ends must be neatly finished and attached securely to the
garment.
Back-stitch straps securely at the point of attachment.

Studs, eyelets and The following standards apply:

button sewing Firmly attach all studs and eyelets without damaging the
surrounding fabric.
All metal fastenings must be smooth-edged, free from burrs
and sharp edges.
Securely attach studs and eyelets through two or more layers
of fabric, ensuring fabric is not pleated or damaged.
Studs and eyelets must be rust proof.

Tolerances Measurement variations of more than + 2 cm are unacceptable.

Refer to the Garment Inspection Report for more information.


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Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship Standards

Waist band hook The following standards apply. The waist band hook and bar
and bar must:
last the life of the garment (item)
correctly align to avoid gaping of the waistband
not crush during pressing
not rust, if metal.

Zippers The following standards apply:

Zippers must be rust proof.
All zippers must have a secure locking mechanism on the
slider.
When a slide fastener is attached to a garment:
avoid stretching the opening
the hem on either side of the opening must be level
the insertion method does not restrict the slider
movement.
Slide fasteners must be in accordance with the relevant fabric
performance standard and the care instructions selected for
the garment.
Do not use aluminium zippers.


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Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship Reference documents

Reference documents
Introduction The following table lists documents referred to in this standard:

Reference no and year Title

AS/NZS 3744.2: 1998 Furniture—Assessment of ignitability of upholstered furniture

Part 2: Ignition source—match flame equivalent
AS 2392: 1990 Labelling of clothing, household textiles and furnishings
AS/NZS 1249: 1999 Children’s nightwear and limited daywear having reduced fire hazard
AS/NZS 2622: 1996 Textile products—fibre content labelling
AS 1344: 1997 Size coding for women’s clothing—underwear, outerwear and foundation
garments
AS/NZS 2450: 1994 Textiles—natural and man-made fibres—generic names
AS/NZS 1957: 1998 Textiles—care labelling
AS/NZS 2621: 1998 Textiles—Guide to the selection of correct care labelling instructions from
AS/NZS 1957
AS 1182: 1997 Size coding scheme for infants and children’s clothing—underwear and outerwear
SAA HBII: 1988 Handbook of Textile Standards for Students
CML Standard Fabric Performance Requirements for Apparel—revised specification
AS 1954—1976 Size designation scheme for men’s clothing (including multiple fitting outerwear
and industrial wear)

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Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship Notes

Notes

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Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship Notes

Notes

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Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship Notes

Notes

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Merchandise Quality Standards—Apparel Workmanship Your comments

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27 August 2010 Kmart 19