RECIPES

YOU’LL MEATBALL BIRYANI l GIANT JAFFA CAKE l JOHN WHAITE’S MOLASSES CHICKEN WINGS
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FISH PIE
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 WELCOME As the season turns golden, bringing autumn
flavours to match, there’s much to celebrate in our kitchens as
we look towards the year’s end. It’s a time to reassess how we
cook, embracing the hearty, the wholesome and glorious
autumn produce such as apples, pears, squash and pumpkins,
But did you know how many pumpkins get thrown away each
year after being carved? See p12 to find out how much soup
those discards would make if rescued from the rubbish heap. I enjoy a bit of
creative carving, but we have waaaay better things for you to do with pumpkins
this year – see p58 for inspiration. (That risotto! That pie!)
This issue has lots to provoke thought, too. Do you ever stop to think about where
sugar comes from as you open the packet? On p88, John Whaite brings the story
to life, with stunning recipes alongside. And on p102 John Gregory-Smith visits a
war-torn area of the world to see the inspiring work of the World Food Programme.
Our taste buds trigger significant memories for so many of us. When my mum
died back in my mid teens, I was left navigating the weekly shop and cooking for Follow
Karen on
my brother and dad. There were two packet mixes I bought regularly: Green’s Twitter and
Instagram
cheesecake and little boxed sachets of lemon meringue pie filling. @editorkarenb
Mum gave me solid training in the kitchen and was a fine cook herself (pang of
PORTRAIT: PAUL MITCHELL. PHOTOGRAPH: GARETH MORGANS

sadness that she never got to know what I do for a living), but my younger brother
and I yearned for treats we’d only rarely been allowed when Mum was alive.
Sometimes we ate that fake-lemony pie filling from the pan as we sat on the sofa
watching The Generation Game. On p14, Debora Robertson muses on reports
that sales of old-school mixes have been soaring. Could it be to do with the comfort
I sought back in the 1970s? Maybe. But there’s surely more to it than that,
and I seize on any sign that, as Debora sees it, food elitism might be on the wane.
I’m not suggesting we all start tearing open packets because, with the right
recipes, you can achieve simplicity, contentment and warmth almost as easily
with fresh ingredients. Mo y in these pages as
the nights draw in. Happy

KAREN BARNES, EDITOR

PS There’s never been a better time to

subscribe to delicious. See p100

58
ON THE COVER
CONTENTS
PEAR, MAPLE AND CALVADOS
CUSTARD TART, P86
Recipe Emma McCaskill
Photograph Ben Dearnley
Food styling Kirsten Jenkins
36
88 6
OC TOBER 2020
YOUR RECIPE INSPIR ATION
6 HELLO, OCTOBER
Did someone say salted toffee apples?
Start the Halloween party!
50 FISH PIE MASTERCLASS
Calum Franklin, pie-meister supreme,
presents a classic, plus two twists
58 STAR OF THE SEASON
Pumpkins and squash take centre stage
68 HOW MARY BERRY DOES A SUNDAY ROAST
Take it easy at the weekend with the
cookery legend’s laid-back feast
80 MOVIE NIGHT
Stream a modern Indian classic with
a meatball biryani on your lap
86 IF YOU MAKE ONE PUDDING...
Make it this world-beating pear tart
88 JOHN WHAITE AT THE SUGAR HARVEST
The Bake Off veteran has a sweet story
and great recipes from Mauritius
96 INTRODUCING... THE GIANT JAFFA CAKE
Greedy family? Best keep it locked up
RE AD ALL ABOUT IT
8 YOUR delicious.
What you’re cooking and debating, plus
your online favourites
12 AND NOW FOR... THE GOOD NEWS
Positive stories, great things to do right
now and the best new cookbooks reviewed
14 IS THIS THE END OF FOOD SNOBBERY?
Debora Robertson welcomes the nation’s
recent search for solace in untrendy food
16 MAKING A DIFFERENCE
How an orchard-growing charity is
starting to bear fruit in the UK’s cities
18 EDITOR’S CHOICE
Beautiful things for food lovers, exclusive
discounts and the best mail-order treats
78 MEET THE COFFEE PRODUCERS A special roast
from the Pennines by way of Panama

68
50 24
Good-for-you,
wholesome
and nutritious
recipes, PLUS
85 DRINKS health info
Susy Atkins toasts interesting pairs for this and kitchen
issue’s recipes, plus a book on English wine know-how
98 BITE-SIZE BREAK 24 MIDWEEK MAGIC
A country house staycation that’s made for
Meals that let your storecupboard
food and drink lovers be your thrifty-yet-creative friend
102 A STORY OF HOPE 34 BEHIND THE HEADLINES
How the World Food Programme is helping With their dubious attendant
the people of war-torn Gaza health claims, are herbal teabags
stringing us along?
36 GOOD-FOR-YOU ‘FAKEAWAYS’
OTHER GOOD THINGS Speedy vegan takeaway-style
meals with hit internet duo BOSH!
11 COOK IT LIKE delicious.
...and win £400 worth of baking kit 44 NOTES FROM OUR (VIRTUAL) TEST KITCHEN
Tips and tricks, plus the best
100 SUBSCRIPTION OFFER
new supermarket products and
Get Nigella’s brilliant new book FREE
neat ideas for leftover ingredients
108 RECIPE INDEX 48 JUST FOR YOU
109 COMING NEXT MONTH Does your pan collection need
The treats we have in store for November a refresh? Save on a ProCook set
114 CUPPA TIME Puzzles for food lovers
T HE
delicious.
PROMISE
RECIPES THAT WORK Every
recipe is rigorously tested
by our food team, using
domestic ovens and hobs,
so you can be confident
they work every time.
INGREDIENTS We aim to use
easy-to-find seasonal
ingredients. We’ll tell you
where to find any unusual
ingredients and/or what
to substitute them with.
Fresh eggs for our test
kitchen are supplied
by Clarence Court
clarencecourt.co.uk and
meat is from The Ginger
Pig thegingerpig.co.uk
HONEST COOKING TIMES
All our timings include
prep. Hands-on time is
when you’re chopping,
stirring or frying. Oven/
simmering time is when
you can leave the dish in
the oven or on the hob.
OUR SYMBOLS EXPLAINED
Recipes you might
expect to contain gluten
or dairy but don’t.
Vegetarian Vegan
Indicates you can freeze
all or most of the recipe.
Unless stated, freeze the
finished dish for up to
3 months. Defrost and
heat until piping hot.
Indicates you’ll find
KNOW- useful information
HOW
about the recipe.
You’ll find an option
MAKE
AHEAD to make part/all of
the recipe ahead.
NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION
Recipes are analysed
for nutritional content
by an expert nutritionist.
Calculations may vary,
depending on the
ingredients, and include
listed ingredients only.
PRICES are correct at
time of going to press.
 HELLO
OCTOBER
There may be a chill in the air, but the kitchen is full of warmth again.
Summer’s no-cook salads give way to warming bakes and casseroles
and the sweet joys of Halloween parties. Bring it on, we say!

Salted toffee apples
SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN,
PLUS 30 MIN SETTING
Keep the toffee apples in a
MAKE cool place for up to 2 days,
AHEAD
covered with baking paper.
• 8 small red eating apples
• 500g caster sugar
• 2 tsp white wine vinegar
• 50g unsalted butter
• 1 tbsp golden syrup
• 2 tbsp single cream
• ½ tsp sea salt flakes, plus extra
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 8 wooden skewers, chopsticks
or cleaned twigs from the garden
(pictured); baking tray lined with
compostable baking paper
USEFUL TO HAVE
Digital probe/sugar thermometer
1 Wash the apples thoroughly and pat
dry with kitchen paper. Pierce each
Chocolate honeycomb
crunch
SERVES 12. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
PLUS COOLING AND SETTING
Keep in an airtight
MAKE container for up
AHEAD
to 2 days – the
honeycomb will turn sticky
if it’s not kept in a dry place.
YOU’LL NEED…
• 20cm x 30cm tin lined with
compostable baking paper
(this should overhang the tin
on all sides)
RECIPES: VALLI LITTLE. PHOTOGRAPH: JEREMY SIMONS
Put 330g caster sugar, 175g
runny honey, 2 tbsp golden
syrup and 80ml cold water in a
deep saucepan. Cook, stirring,
over a low heat for 1-2 minutes
until the sugar has dissolved.
Increase the heat to medium-
high, then boil, swirling the pan
occasionally, for 5-6 minutes
favourites.
apple through the core at the stem Find more
with a skewer or twig, then set aside.
2 Put the caster sugar, white wine OCTOBER
vinegar, unsalted butter, golden
syrup and 150ml cold water in a
INSPIRATION
heavy-based pan over a low heat, ONLINE
stirring until the butter has melted Search for these recipes at
and the sugar is fully dissolved. deliciousmagazine.co.uk
3 Turn up the heat to medium-high
and bubble until the mixture turns
deep golden (or until a sugar or Bramble & bay baked
digital probe thermometer reaches camembert
140°C) – about 15 minutes. Take the
pan off the heat, then very carefully E A S Y S WA P
stir in the cream and sea salt flakes. Try substituting
the camembert
4 Dip each apple in the toffee mix, with British
using the skewer/twig to turn it to tunworth. You
fully coat. Put the coated apples on can find it at larger
the prepared baking tray, sprinkle Waitrose stores
or at British
with a little extra sea salt, then cheesemongers
leave for at least 30 minutes to set and delis, or
(see Make Ahead). order online
from paxtonand
PER SERVING 265kcals, 4.6g fat (2.8g
whitfield.co.uk.
saturated), 0.6g protein, 54.9g carbs
(54.9g sugars), 0.2g salt, 1.2g fibre
See Loose Ends (p46) for ideas
to use up single cream Sausage & cider casserole
with apples and sage
E A S Y S WA P S
until the mixture forms a This one-pot is
a seasonal
smooth, golden caramel. standby and a
Remove from the heat, stir great way to use
in 2 tsp bicarbonate of soda up apples. Ring
(the mixture will foam up) and the changes
by swapping
pour into the prepared tin. Set the sage for fresh
aside for 30 minutes to harden. rosemary or
Meanwhile, melt 250g chopped thyme, or replace
the apples with
dark chocolate in a heatproof
pears or quince.
bowl set over a pan of
simmering water (don’t let the
bowl touch the water). Stir
until smooth, cool slightly, then Chicken supremes with wild
pour it over the honeycomb mushrooms & tarragon sauce
(tilt the tin to spread it out).
Sprinkle over 4 chopped E A S Y S WA P
dried figs, 2 tbsp candied Supremes are
chicken breasts
orange peel and 60g toasted that still have
chopped hazelnuts. Leave to the wing bone
set. Lift out the honeycomb attached to them
using the paper, then break – swap for 12
skin-on, bone-in
into pieces (see Make Ahead). chicken thighs
PER SERVING 318kcals, and cook
9.1g fat (3.7g saturated), 2.1g for 10 FIND MORE
protein, 56.3g carbs (55.5g
minutes RECIPES
sugars), 0.5g salt, 1.5g fibre
longer.
ONLINE
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 7
YOUR delicious. SUBJECT: DELICIOUS.
PREDICTS THE FUTURE!
WELL, SORT OF...
FROM: PAMELA HUGHSON
Our Italian escape Leafing through my
delicious. magazines,
this page [below] from
STAR EMAIL the December 2019 issue
FROM: NICOLA struck a chord. How
The last 12 months have been prophetic those words
particularly stressful for our family. at the top were: we
Our critically ill son was have all cooked more,
hospitalised but he received experimented more, been
amazing care and responded well horrified when flour
to the medications and treatments. disappeared from the
We were ahead of the game in shelves – and as for yeast...
thanking and praising the NHS! Five months on,

*A FULL MAINLAND UK DELIVERY ADDRESS AND TELEPHONE NUMBER MUST BE SUPPLIED. ENTRANTS MUST BE OVER 18. FOR FULL TS&CS, TURN TO P108
His results at the start of shopping has calmed and
2020 were good, so we we can make the recipes
booked a family break we want. For me, baking
in Milan to celebrate and has been a way of
relax a little. Obviously, ‘vintage’ delicious. thanking our neighbours
it was soon clear Milan magazines and found an who shopped for us. We
wasn’t going to be Italian special issue... would let them know what
visited. We know Squash risotto, chocolate was on the menu on
everyone has missed out mousse, biscotti, roast a Friday from ‘The Hoose
on events, holidays, pork, polenta, gnocchi, Bakery’ (my husband is a
weddings and so many ravioli, antipasti and so Scot) for click and collect!
things and we’re acutely aware we on… We brought Italy to our Wishing you all a safe
have so much to be grateful for, but garden in Perthshire and the sun future and thank you for
as our ‘holiday’ date approached shone for us too. I was so busy keeping me up to scratch
I felt we still should do something... cooking (and washing up!) that my baking different goodies.
I borrowed Italian cookbooks mind didn’t have time to dwell
from friends and raided my own, on things. Thank you for playing
but nothing piqued my interest your part in our special stay-at-
until I looked at my shelf of home weekend.
ONLINE
THIS
MONTH
GET SPOOKY IN
THE KITCHEN
Meringue ghosts, spiderweb cakes,
pumpkin soup and cheesy savoury
skulls… Find a frighteningly good
array of treats for 31 October at
deliciousmagazine.co.uk/halloweenrecipes

HA
AVE YOUR SAY…
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 feedback.

S
SUBJECT: I PINE
FFOR OPINION
FFROM: ROSIE WHAT
W
When I received YOU’VE
tthe September
magazine, I eagerly
m BEEN
flipped to the last
fl
page for the
p
OOKING
opinion piece, as
o
I mostly do. I say Randi used her sourdough
mostly because
m starter (called Bubbles) to
ssometimes, when
make sourdough pizzas
from the August issue [p92].
I know I have time to sit and read @stillkay_ “I couldn’t figure out how
the mag from cover to cover, I save justbetter dunked to work this ‘wet’ dough
the last page until, well, last – like some crudités into into pizzas, but your article
leaving the crispiest roast potato for August’s lemony saved the day. I had to fight
a treat at the end of a Sunday roast. white bean and to get a picture before the
Please let this be a pause rather
garlic dip [p68]. pizzas were wolfed down.”
“Found the perfect
than a stop to the back-page opinion alternative to
piece. I don’t always agree with it hummus
mmus.”
but I do always enjoy reading it.
• Would you like to see a return of the
‘A good rant’ feature? Let us know at
info@deliciousmagazine.co.uk. While
you’re at it, we’d love to hear from
you about what you’d like to see in
delicious. Write, or join our reader
“My disco dancers
panel – see details, bottom left. celebrated their
return to school” Now her children are
back at school, Jo u
used
Jenny O’Brien wrote to tell us
about a favourite kitchen tip their cookie cutter
ers to
jazz up her beef an
When I finish a jar of sun-dried
mushroom pies
tomatoes, olives or anchovies, I [Sep, p27] with “disco
save the oil to make salad dressings dancing divas – they
or add to pasta sauce. Anchovy oil tasted fantastic too”.
is great for frying onions and mince
– it takes shepherd’s pie to the next
Juli made Skye
level. It’s a fab way to make these
Mc lpine’s easy
expensive ingredients last longer – Aphrodite’s roast chicken
plus, no risk of blocking [Aug, p17]. “On a lazy
your
y sink with too Sunday, I wanted
much oil. a chicken roast dinner
but couldn’t muster
the energy – this is the
solution. I know Skye’s
book is about cooking for
friends but I prefer to
keep this one to myself!”

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ruby.dumbrell@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk ake your own version of any recipe from our
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Lucas Hollweg, Gill Meller, Sue Quinn, Debora Robertson This baker’s dream bundle is chock-full of useful tools
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Adam Wright Finance manager 01733 373135 AUGUST’S WINNER
adam.wright@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk • Shannon
Dickson wins a
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 And now for...

THE GOOD NEWS

GREAT THINGS TO DO RIGHT NOW + STORIES TO RAISE A SMILE
COMPILED BY PHOEBE STONE

Rescue…
A PUMPKIN
We might be used to seeing them
smiling (albeit grotesquely), but
Halloween can be a frightful time
for pumpkins, with an estimated
15 million carved but not eaten. The
facts are scary: only half of those
polled in 2016 saw Halloween
pumpkins as food, and seven in

1
10 carved pumpkins were chucked
– enough to make a bowl of pumpkin
soup for everyone in the UK!
Truth is, pumpkins bred for carving
can be watery, but you can enjoy
their tastier if knobblier cousins.

PUMPKIN STATISTICS: 2016 RESEARCH BY UNILEVER AND HUBBUB

Teals: food Surplus specialists Oddbox saved
worth making over 7,000 pumpkins from landfill
a detour for
last year – they were rejected by
supermarkets – and will be including

Taste… them in veg boxes throughout

October (from £10.99 including
THE WEST COUNTRY delivery to London, Brighton and
…with the launch of two new ventures. Opening this autumn, roadside the South East; oddbox.co.uk). The
food market Teals (teals.co.uk) is positioned just off the A303’s North/ social enterprise has stopped more
South Cadbury junction near Yeovil in Somerset and promises to than 5 million kilos of fruit and veg
showcase the best of the region for local shoppers and day trippers being wasted since its launch in 2017.
alike, with added eco-friendly credentials (renewable energy, For all the perfect pumpkin recipe
a surplus food plan and electric car-charging points). inspiration you need, see p58
ACTION The deli, butchers, bottle shop and cheesemongers will
AGAINST HUNGER The feature locally sourced produce alongside artisan treats
charity’s Love Food Give from further afield. A restaurant will offer meals made
Food campaign is back, giving from the same local larder, plus orchard views, outside
diners at around 400 restaurants
courtyard seating and food to go – a winning combination.
the option to add £1 to their bill to
help combat child hunger. Won’t be down that way? Wells Food Festival goes online
This year, you can also give by this year (with help from Charlie Bigham’s, maker
buying certain food brands. of upmarket ready meals). Visit wellsfoodfestival.
Visit actionagainst bighams.com on the 10-11 October to discover 150 local
hunger.org.uk/ producers to order from, plus demos, competitions, live
lovefoodgivefood
streamed music, drawing classes and more.
 in the know.
FOOD
NEWS
XXXXXXX

Hot new cookbooks

XXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXX

SCANDINAVIAN GREEN
From celeriac schnitzel in winter
to wild garlic pancakes in spring,
Danish chef and prolific cookbook
author Trine Hahnemann captures
the magic of seasonal eating with
ideas for getting more plants on

Read…
your plate.
Out 15 Oct; Quadrille £26
ALL ABOUT IT
A new wave of e-newsletters is bringing some TOWPATH: RECIPES AND STORIES
fresh food writing to your inbox. Start with the The al fresco Towpath Café on
twice-weekly Vittles, edited by Jonathan Nunn. Hackney’s Regent’s Canal is an
Launched in March as a lockdown project, insiders’ favourite for its waterside
it’s covered subjects as diverse as home- ambience and wholesome, seasonal
fermenting projects and first-hand accounts food. Get the vibe at home with Laura
from frontline food workers, as well as essays on Jackson’s recipes and Lori De Mori’s
observing Ramadan in the Covid era, the dark atmospheric words.
side of food delivery apps and the joys of Turkish Chelsea Green Publishing £27
supermarkets. Nearly 100 writers have
contributed, some published for the first time. PARWANA
Providing a steady diet of under-documented Durkhanai Ayubi explores
foods, from Indonesian sambal to instant noodles, Afghanistan’s diverse cultural
Vittles also considers inequalities head-on. history and challenges received
Campaigning food writer Melissa Thompson wisdom in this stunning book,
highlights the scarcity of Black talent given the tracing her family’s journey to their
spotlight in the food industry, and Jonathan Nunn Adelaide-based Afghan restaurant,
explores bias in UK restaurant reviewing (20 per Parwana. Recipes are by her
cent of reviews in the national media are for mother, Farida. Murdoch Books £20
restaurants in Chelsea or Mayfair). Vital reading. BOOK
vittles.substack.com; subscribe for free – donations
OF THE
are encouraged to fund writers’ fees; pay £4 a month
MONTH
for an extra weekly article from Jonathan

Eat your greens

Excited about eating out again but overwhelmed by
the options? Check out the Sustainable Restaurant
Association’s helpful new hub at foodmadegood.org
and make a sounder choice. The SRA promotes planet
and people-friendly practices, and this October it’s
encouraging restaurants, pubs and cafés to showcase
their most sustainable dishes (such as this one, left,
from Ink Café in Dublin) – creations made with food
waste, more veg or quality meat. Diners can browse
the SRA’s restaurant database and get involved in its
annual award for the People’s Favourite Restaurant.

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 13
Is this the
end of food
snobbery?

Salad cream, packet-mix trifle, a bowl of steaming canary-yellow

custard or tinned fruit with condensed milk… It seems hordes of us
need a fix of these reassuringly familiar flavours in times of uncertainty
– and there’s nothing wrong with that, says Debora Robertson

T
his has been the most
contradictory year. It will
be remembered as the one
when we cherished our homes
and yearned to get out of them,
loved our families but sometimes
couldn’t wait to escape from them,
embraced technology and grew
exhausted by the work-from-home
tyranny it imposed. It’s the one
where we dressed smartly from
the waist up, in pyjamas from the
waist down. We cut our own hair,
did our own colour and just got on
with it as best we could – all the
working, the disinfecting and the
home-schooling, plus the jigsaws,
needlepoint and gardening we
slotted into the space where our
social lives used to be.
For some, ‘as best we could’
involved nurturing kimchi and
tending sourdough starters as
though they were the most precious
of newborns. When it comes to all
this, I’m as bad as anyone, but
sometimes these fancy-pants-in-
a-crisis ways will catch you out. On
the hottest day of the year, one of
our bottles of homemade kombucha
exploded all over the kitchen. It had
had enough. We’d all had enough.
But for many, according to a
shopping report the Co-op carried
out with 2,000 of its customers, the
foods we craved this year were ones
that would have fitted quite happily
in our parents’ or grandparents’
shopping baskets in the 1970s and
1980s. Sales of Smash instant mash
went up by 59 per cent, corned beef
was up 90 per cent, tinned fish sales
soared six-fold, packet trifles went
up seven-fold, and jelly and Bird’s
custard powder sales trebled.
Tinned fruit got a boost too, with
pineapple-ring sales three and
a half times bigger than normal.
This doesn’t surprise me, given the
ILLUSTRATION: GETTY IMAGES
frequency with which I have seen
that retro charmer, the pineapple
upside-down cake, showing up
on my Instagram feed (no news on
glâcé cherries, but I’m sure they
have also seen a rise in sales – if
we weren’t doing our own hair,
it seems we were baking).
COMFORT SHOPPING
Of all the things that garnered
attention on my own slightly
shambolic Instagram account
(follow me @lickedspoon, I’m
needy), it wasn’t the warm squid
and potato salad or the canard aux
cerises but the corned beef pie made
to my Auntie Louie’s recipe circa
1968 that drew the most admiring,
madeleine-moment responses.
Of course, some of this is easy to
explain away. At a time when we
were all limiting how often we went
to the supermarket and making the
Food is often used as a social signifier:
a way of denoting class and sophistication,
a way to get one over on another person –
it’s one-upmanship with knife and fork
most of any grocery delivery slots
we might be able to get our hands
on, it made sense to stock up on
food with a long shelf life.
But it’s about more than that.
When we reached for or clicked on
Smash and packet trifle, we were
choosing foods that reminded us of
a time when possibly life felt safer
and more certain, more optimistic,
than it does now. When I look at
the list of old-turned-new
favourites, it reminds me of Sunday
afternoons at my grandmother’s
house. Admittedly, she was a
terrible cook – but she was
a wonderful person, and my
memories of time spent with her
are very happy ones. We knitted,
we sewed, she recited huge chunks
of Shakespeare from memory, we
made packet trifle and cheesecake
from a box, and Sunday lunch was
always followed by tinned fruit
salad with condensed milk.
ARE WE JUST WHAT WE EAT?
What we eat is about more than
physical nourishment. While I love
to cook, shop for food, try new
food for thought.
things, visit new restaurants and
explore cultures that are unfamiliar
to me through their food traditions,
sometimes I get tired. I get tired of
the way that, instead of being about
pleasure, food is often used as a
social signifier: a way of denoting
class and sophistication, a way to
get one over on another person –
it’s one-upmanship with knife and
fork. But you know what? Take a
seat for a minute, Lady Judgment.
We are all weary, and sometimes
what we really want is trifle from
a packet, if that’s okay with you?
Of course it’s more important
than ever for us to know where our
food comes from and how it’s been
grown and reared – if nothing
else, these past months have shown
us how we must cherish and do
everything we can to preserve
our own good health. But the
levels of culinary show-offery,
the exhausting, relentless,
performative, Instagrammable
perfection of so much we once
aspired to achieve in the kitchen
now feels – to me at least – slightly
out of touch with the times.
Let people love what they love.
Of course, all of us flipping through
these wonderful pages crave
beautiful, seasonal, carefully made
and interesting food, but sometimes
you just want Salad Cream on your
salad rather than a homemade
vinaigrette made with single-estate
cold-pressed oil from the left-hand
side of the olive grove – and that
is absolutely fine. Right now,
whatever you need to help you
get by, to improve your state of
calm, to cheer yourself up, seems
all right with me.
The heart wants what it wants,
and if sometimes that’s Bird’s custard
and jelly, knock yourself out.
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 15
 ONE VISION, 11 YEARS,
540 ORCHARDS
Imagine if everyone lived in walking distance of fresh apples, pears and plums to pick. That,
along with a reinvigoration of the UK’s orchard heritage, is the inspiring goal of visionary
charity The Orchard Project and it’s having a remarkable effect on volunteers’ wellbeing

In 2009, sustainable food advocate
Carina Millstone envisaged a
London blooming with fruit trees.
Inspired by the legacy of the plane
trees, planted en masse in the city by
the Victorians, Carina believed fruit
trees could have the same long-
lasting impact for people living in
urban areas. With entrepreneur
Rowena Ganguli, Carina founded
The London Orchard Project to
help the city’s communities create
orchards, preserve heritage skills
and celebrate home-grown fruit.
THE MISSION
The initiative soon grew into The
Orchard Project charity and reached
Birmingham, Manchester, Leeds,
Glasgow and Edinburgh. This
autumn, they’ll open the first Welsh
office in Swansea.
The aim of The Orchard Project is
for every home in every UK city to
be within walking distance of a
community-run orchard. Building
a network of orchards – by restoring
old ones and planting new ones –
requires willing hands and
available land. “We do outreach
work, or communities approach us
because they want to plant trees in
their area,” explains Abby Cremin,
Head of Operations and
Programmes. “It could be on
a housing estate, in a local park – or
just a patch of unused green space.”
If the funding pot allows and
WORDS: LAURA DAY. PHOTOGRAPHS: THE ORCHARD PROJECT, HOLLY PICKERING, TOM BROADHEAD
there are enough people who want
to be involved, the charity works
with the community to design and
plant the orchard (five or more fruit
trees are classed as an orchard). It
also runs workshops for people to
learn key skills such as pruning,
disease control and cider making;
there’s even an accredited course in
managing community orchards.
“The idea is that it’s not our
orchard, it’s their orchard,” says
Abby. “The community takes
responsibility for caring for it long
term. Our job is to give them the
tools and support they need to keep
caring for the trees over the years.”
In just over a decade, The Orchard
Project has restored and planted

16 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

540 orchards in England and
Scotland, and has helped preserve
forgotten British apple varieties,
such as the hounslow wonder. It’s
not just about apples – plums, pears,
apricots and figs are grown too, and
community diversity is reflected
in the choice of fruit, which Abby
says can often be quite tropical.
“Sometimes it might be about
where people come from. They want
something that
reminds them of
what fruit trees “95% of
were growing volunteers say
where they used
to live.”
the project helps
Outside the them feel more
autumn and connected to
winter harvest, the
charity runs related
nature”
activities and events.
“Orchards have their
seasonality, which
creates the opportunity to
bring people together to celebrate
everything that orchards have to
give,” says Abby. Typical events are
blossom picnics, bio blitzes (that’s
a bug hunt) and apple days that
celebrate the harvest with
community-made food. Covid-19
has made these events harder, but
throughout lockdown, the charity
has kept in touch via online
sessions including wellbeing classes
and mindfulness drawing.
WHY IT MATTERS
Since the charity’s inception, it has
engaged 60,000 people in orchard
activities, grown over 2.3 million
apples and helped produce over
1,880 tonnes per year of fresh fruit
for local communities. It has also
launched its own juice
and cider enterprise
using surplus fruit
from London trees.
Funds raised from
sales are returned
to the orchards in
the shape of tools
or skills training.
But the value
of this work goes
beyond what happens on the
ground. According to the charity’s
latest impact report, 86 per cent of
its beneficiaries say being involved
in orchards has improved their
physical and mental wellbeing; 95
per cent of volunteers say it helps
them feel more connected to nature
and green spaces; and 34 per cent
have found employment with related
skills gained through the charity’s
training programmes. “Knowing
making a difference.
how to graft an apple tree is quite a FRUITFUL
ENDEAVOUR,
rare skill, as is being able to identify
FROM LEFT
the hundreds of different apples – Lizzie Pegler,
not many people in the UK can do The Orchard
that,” says Abby. There are Project’s chief
cider maker,
environmental benefits too, from helped by Lewis
reducing the air miles fruit travels McNeill (centre),
to creating habitats for wildlife. turns surplus
Abby is proud that the project apples into juice
and cider using a
has helped preserve many of the traditional cloth-
UK’s orchards for future and-rack press;
generations. “We’ve lost so many of planting new
trees will create
our heritage orchards over the
orchards for
years. There was a huge variety of generations
different types of apple planted,” to come
she explains, adding that the range
found in commercial orchards
tends to be limited. “People enjoy
learning about what the local
varieties would have been, trying
the different types and saving
those orchards.”
There’s a long way to go before
we can all pick an apple on our
doorstep, but with every orchard
planted, it feels that bit closer.
“People treasure turning a barren
piece of land into something
valuable. That’s special.”
HOW YOU CAN HELP To find out more
about The Orchard Project and to
donate or become a member, visit
theorchardproject.org.uk
EDITOR’S CHOICE
Food by mail order, attractive things for your home + general good stuff you need to know about

Karen Barnes’
highlights this
month include
handmade pasta,
banana peel rum
and discounts
just for you

BEST BUY
UNDER £10
This colourful vessel – Turned turn-ons
more of a storage basket, Ever on the lookout for artisan-made curios,
really – is handmade by
I spotted a mention of Cornish Woodsmith on
women in Bangladesh
from tightly woven
Instagram @cornishwoodsmith, investigated and
recycled saris and it’s loved what I saw. Craftsman Dominic Pearce,
beautiful, as well as being keen to preserve traditional crafts, works with
sturdy, with a thick jute foraged and storm-damaged wood. His carved
base. Use for storage, for bowls are almost too good to use, but I will – and
a plant or even as a small
I’ll be buying more for gifts. Keep an eye on
wastepaper basket.
£9.99 from Oxfam stores
cornishwoodsmith.com for new creations.
From £25 for a bowl; cornishwoodsmith.com
and oxfam.org.uk

Oil with something extra

One of my favourite brands, Odysea, has launched a new
premium extra-virgin olive oil from olives grown in the
Kalamata region of Greece so acclaimed for the quality
of its produce that the oils have PDO status. The organic
version in particular is fruity and smooth with a spicy kick.
Organic version £8 for 500ml, odysea.com – non-organic kalamata pdo olive
oil in various sizes also available online and in Sainsbury’s and Booths

18 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 wish list.

SAVE CHEESE OF
10% THE MONTH
What happens when Quicke’s cheddar
Fit for a king meets an attractive Bavarian cheese
When a prawn is fresh, tender called alp blossom? The answer is
and sweet, it’s one of life’s great a wonderful new cheese called
pleasures. Now you can buy alpencheddar – and it’s set to
sustainably farmed British king win awards. There’s nuttiness
in the flavour profile
prawns by the 1kg boxful within
alongside caramelly
hours of them coming out of the notes. Buy a 200g wedge
briny at the Great British Prawns for £7 or, for £30, a Story
farm in Stirlingshire. They’re Box with the two parent
delivered ready to cook or freeze cheeses and their love
and they sing with flavour. child. Heaven.
quickes.co.uk
A box of 30-40 costs £40, plus
£4.99 delivery. Maybe share an
order with a friend or neighbour
to halve the delivery charge.
• Save 10 per cent*, paying £36 for a £40
box; use the code DELOCT20 when you
Bowled over
check out at greatbritishprawns.com
With Bake Off back on Channel 4
(something familiar we can rely on – how
reassuring), the cake-making obsession is
being rekindled. Mixing bowls on standby,
people! Mason Cash is my go-to brand as
SAVE they last for years and, although my trad
10% beige bowl is chip-free after 25 years, I’m
tempted to oust it for one of these new
designs. I won’t, of course, but maybe an
*OFFERS CAN BE USED ONCE PER PERSON AND WILL BE APPLIED TO THE ENTIRE ORDER; VALID UNTIL 31 OCTOBER 2020

additional smaller one is required…

In The Forest bowls, from £11.96, silvermushroom.com →

BOX SET BINGE

Now this is a treat: a sharp, chic box of eight different-
flavoured handmade pastas, from saffron to lemon to
tomato to spinach. They cook in just 3 minutes, and the
flavour and texture are outstanding – I prefer them with
a simple dressing (maybe butter, sage and parmesan
or olive oil, oven-roasted tomatoes and basil) so the
delicate flavours of the pasta shine through.
• Save 10 per cent* on the Bauletto pasta gift pack by
Pasta di Aldo, paying £36 (RRP £40) for 8 x 250g boxes;
use the code DELICIOUS10 at the checkout at sacla.co.uk
wish list.

This month
I’m drinking…
…Discarded Banana Peel
ru
um, part of the new
Prroject Earth sustainable
range at Selfridges. The
Caaribbean rum is infused
with banana peel that would
otherwise be thrown away,
annd has a hint of toffee. It
makes a fine Old Fashioned,
ussing rum in place of the
ussual bourbon. £29.99 for
5000ml, selfridges.com
PS
Ea
Look out for the
rest of the Project
arth range, which includes
ch
hocolate, clean-air
candles, beauty products
annd more.
HURRAHS FOR JARS
October is my month for reorganisation – time to retreat
indoors, pare down and impose order. Robert Welch is
renowned for quality kit, and its new Signature storage
jars are no exception. They’re stackable and shatterproof,
the lids (stainless steel with silicon seals) fit snugly and
you can see at a glance what’s inside. They’re not cheap
(prices start at £16; the six-piece set below is £90) but
the quality is bang on and they come with a lifetime
guarantee. robertwelch.com (free delivery over £75)
SAVE
15%
Good cheer by mail order
Is someone you know in need of
a virtual hug in food form? Here’s
a special treat to send by post: The
Ultimate Care Package is a mix of
comfort food (posh fish fingers, salmon
fish cakes, proper sausages, banana
bread, top smoked salmon and more),
all with the Forman & Field touch.
• The hamper costs £79.95 but you can save
15 per cent on orders made before 31 October
2020 using the code CARE15 when you check
out at formanandfield.com
THE BOOK
I’M READING…
DIRT BY BILL BUFORD
(JONATHAN CAPE £18.99)
How many times have you
dreamed of jacking it all
in to have an adventure
abroad – to live, work or just
to dive into another culture?
American writer Bill Buford
has done just that with wife Jesssica, who
(luckily) shares his wanderlust.
First came a stint in Italy, then they uprooted from
the US and moved to France, this time with two-year-
old twins in tow, where Buford was set on becoming
a chef – no matter that he couldn’t speak French.
Dirt tells the story of Bill’s determination to master
cooking techniques in the gastronomic city of Lyon,
where only perfection will do. Along the way he works
in high-end kitchens, seeks advice from characters
you immediately want to meet, learns fast, works at
an intense pace – and isn’t afraid to fail. Buford has an
inexhaustible zest for life; the book is a tour de force.

20 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 TRUE SIMPLICITY
Our eggs are patiently laid by traditional breed birds originating from rare breed ancestors.
It’s our heritage that gives them their unique flavour. Demand the best - look for the crown.

clarencecourt.co.uk
Never out of fashion
since 1947

* Source: IRI, Total UK Market value sales for the Household gloves category,
for the period comprising 52 weeks ending on 14th September 2019
 EAT WELL
THRIFTY STORECUPBOARD MEALS 24 l BEHIND THE HEADLINES ON HERBAL TEAS 34 l QUICK VEGAN DINNERS
FROM BOSH! 36 l TIPS AND TRICKS FROM OUR TEST KITCHEN 44 l EXCLUSIVE OFFER ON KITCHEN GEAR 48
ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
 MIDWEEK MAGIC

COOK, SWAP,
SAVE!
Family friendly meals from storecupboard staples and fresh, easily swappable
ingredients: these seven recipes keep the pennies in check while getting a big
thumbs-up from those at your table. That’s what we call savvy cooking

JUST FEEL THE HEAT

£1.55 PER Greek-style one-pot

with courgette
SERVING dumplings

RECIPES JULES MERCER FOOD STYLING JEN BEDLOE PHOTOGRAPHS MAJA SMEND STYLING DAVINA PERKINS
 eat well every day.

FRESH
TAKE ON
HALLOUMI

SALAD DAYS
Halloumi and charred
hispi cabbage with
beetroot and tahini slaw

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 25
 Pan-fried fish with pea
guacamole and smashed
EASY FISH new potatoes
SUPPER SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN,
FOR 4 OVEN TIME 35 MIN

• 750g new potatoes

• 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 100g feta cheese, crumbled
• 1 tbsp sumac (see Easy Swaps)
• 4 x 120g sustainable salmon
or white fish fillets
• Grated zest 1 lemon, reserving
fruit for serving

FOR THE PEA GUACAMOLE

• 500g frozen peas
• 4 tbsp half-fat crème fraîche
(or full-fat if you prefer)
• Juice and zest 1 lime
• Handful fresh mint leaves, plus
a few extra to garnish

1 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/

gas 7. Bring a large pan of salted
water to the boil. Reduce the heat to
a simmer, then cook the potatoes for
10-12 minutes or until the point of a
sharp knife slips in easily. Drain well.
2 Meanwhile, make the guacamole:
boil the peas for 2 minutes in a pan
of salted water. Drain the peas and
whizz with the remaining guacamole
ingredients – you can do this in a
mini blender or in a bowl using
a stick blender. Add a little water
if you need to loosen the mixture,
then season well and set aside.
3 Put the cooked potatoes in a
casserole or roasting tin. Crush
gently with the back of a spoon, then
drizzle over the olive oil, crumble
over the feta and sprinkle with half
the sumac. Roast for 10 minutes,
then remove the casserole/tin from
the oven and set the salmon on top.
Sprinkle with the remaining sumac
and return the dish/tin to the oven
for 10-12 minutes more, or until the
fish is just cooked.
4 Serve with the pea guacamole and
E A S Y S WA P S lemon wedges, sprinkled with
If you don’t have
sumac in your lemon zest and extra mint leaves.
spice cupboard, PER SERVING 603kcals, 28.3g fat
use smoked or (6.7g saturated), 38.8g protein,
regular paprika
instead. 43.1g carbs (5.9g sugars), 0.5g salt,
10.2g fibre →

26 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 eat well every day.

SIMPLE
PLEASURES
Roasted cherry
tomato and
tarragon
spaghetti

PASTA
PRONTO
 HIGH IN
OMEGA-3s &
VITAMIN D

Sardine fishcakes with • 225g vine-ripened cherry tomatoes into 12 balls and flatten each into
chilli corn salsa • 2 tbsp olive oil a patty about 3cm thick.
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, • 1 red chilli (seeds removed), 3 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/
OVEN TIME 25 MIN finely chopped gas 7. Beat the egg in a bowl, then
• Large handful fresh basil, finely spread the breadcrumbs on a large
• 500g floury potatoes (such as chopped, with some leaves left plate. Dip each patty into the egg,
maris piper or king edward), whole to serve then the breadcrumbs to coat
peeled and quartered and set on a lined baking tray.
• 2 x 120g tins sardines in tomato 1 Put the potatoes in a steamer set Drizzle the sunflower oil over the
E A S Y S WA P S sauce, drained (see Easy Swaps) over a pan of boiling water and fishcakes, then bake for 25 minutes
Sardines are
sustainable, full • 6 spring onions, finely chopped steam for about 15 minutes until until golden brown.
of flavour and • Finely grated zest and juice cooked through. Remove from the 4 Meanwhile, mix all the salsa
packed with a
good dose of 1 lemon, plus wedges to serve heat and leave to cool slightly ingredients together and season
omega 3s. If • 1 medium free-range egg before mashing with a fork in well. Serve the fishcakes with the
you still can’t • 50g panko or other dried a large mixing bowl. salsa, basil leaves and lemon
convince picky
eaters, swap breadcrumbs 2 Mash the drained sardines into wedges for squeezing over.
the tinned fish • 6 tbsp sunflower oil the potatoes along with the spring PER SERVING 520kcals, 31g fat
for roasted veg onions, lemon zest and juice, (5.1g saturated), 18.3g protein,
and some grated
cheddar. FOR THE CHILLI CORN SALSA then season well with salt and 39.8g carbs (7.2g sugars), 0.7g salt,
• 198g tin sweetcorn, drained freshly ground black pepper. Divide 4.4g fibre →
 eat well every day.

ON THE SWEET AND SPICY

TABLE Chilli pork and

pineapple
IN 10 rice bowl

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 29
 TASTE THE ADVENTURE
Here at Glorious! we love taking your taste buds on a
foodie adventure through fresh flavours,
packed with nutritious ingredients.

Visit gloriousfoods.co.uk
to view our fresh soup range and where to buy.

@glorious_foods
 eat well every day.

Bacon-wrapped
chicken with roast
caponata
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN,
OVEN TIME 35 MIN

• 8 British outdoor-reared
streaky bacon rashers
• 8 small free-range skinless,
boneless chicken thighs (see
Easy Swaps)

FOR THE CAPONATA

• 80ml olive oil
• 2 aubergines, cut into 2cm
chunks
• 1 large courgette, cut into 2cm
chunks
• 2 banana shallots, sliced
into wedges
• 6 vine-ripened tomatoes,
cut into rough chunks
• 2 tbsp sultanas
• 50g toasted flaked almonds
to serve
• Large handful fresh basil ALL-IN-ONE
leaves to serve
TRAY PASS THE PARCEL

1 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C ROAST Bacon-wrapped

fan/gas 7. Mix the oil, aubergines,
courgette, shallots, tomato
chunks and sultanas on a large,
lipped roasting tray and roast
for 10 minutes.
2 Meanwhile, use a rolling pin to
gently roll each piece of bacon
on a chopping board to stretch it.
Wrap a piece of stretched bacon
around each chicken thigh.
3 Remove the caponata from the
oven and set the chicken pieces
on top. Return to the oven and
cook for 25-30 minutes until the
chicken is cooked through.
Remove from the oven and top
with toasted almonds and basil
leaves to serve.
PER SERVING 642kcals, 38.7g fat
(8.3g saturated), 52.6g protein,
16.6g carbs (15.6g sugars), 1.7g
salt, 8.4g fibre
E A S Y S WA P S
For a veggie supper, swap the
bacon wrapped chicken for
wedges of cauliflower.
Roasted cherry
tomato and
tarragon spaghetti
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN,
OVEN TIME 15 MIN
• 800g cherry tomatoes
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 500g spaghetti or linguine
• 100ml double cream (see Easy
Swaps)
• Large handful fresh tarragon,
chopped
• 40g freshly grated parmesan (or
vegetarian alternative)
chicken with
roast caponata
1 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/
gas 7. Spread the tomatoes on a
tray, drizzle with olive oil and roast
for 15 minutes until just charred.
2 Meanwhile, cook the pasta
according to the pack instructions.
Drain well and return to the pan,
off the heat.
3 Scrape the tomatoes and any
cooking juices into the pasta pan,
then stir in the cream and most of
the tarragon. Season and serve
sprinkled with grated cheese and
the remaining tarragon.
PER SERVING 438kcals, 19.5g fat
(6.7g saturated), 17.1g protein,
44.3g carbs (12.2g sugars),
1.2g salt, 8.4g fibre →
E A S Y S WA P S
For vegans, omit the cream
and cheese or replace with a
dairy free substitute and check
your pasta doesn’t include egg.

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 31
eat well every day.
Halloumi and
charred hispi
cabbage with
beetroot and
tahini slaw
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME
10 MIN, OVEN TIME 10 MIN
• 1 white hispi, pointed or sweetheart
cabbage, quartered
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• 400g halloumi, sliced
• 1 large ripe avocado, sliced
FOR THE SLAW
• 1 banana shallot or small red onion,
finely sliced into wedges
• Finely grated zest and juice 1 lime,
plus wedges to serve
• 4 tbsp natural yogurt (or crème fraîche)
• 2 tbsp tahini (see Easy Swaps)
• Small handful fresh mint leaves,
roughly chopped, plus extra to garnish
• 4 small raw beetroot, scrubbed and
sliced into rounds
• 400g tin chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1 Mix the shallot/onion and lime juice for
the slaw in a non-metallic bowl and set
aside to pickle while the cabbage cooks.
2 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7.
Put the cabbage wedges on a baking tray,
drizzle with 2 tbsp olive oil, then roast for
10 minutes until just charred. Set aside.
3 Drain the shallot/onion, keeping the
liquid, and set aside. Mix together the
remaining slaw ingredients with the
pickling liquid and some seasoning.
4 Just before serving, heat the remaining
oil in a frying pan over a medium-high
heat and fry the halloumi for 1-2 minutes
on each side until golden and crisp.
5 Divide the slaw between serving
plates, arrange the hot halloumi on top
with the cabbage, shallot/onion, sliced
avocado and remaining mint, with lime
wedges on the side for squeezing.
PER SERVING 714kcals, 47.6g fat (20.7g
saturated), 31.5g protein, 33.5g carbs
(12.8g sugars), 2.6g salt, 13g fibre
E A S Y S WA P S
If you haven’t got any tahini,
use a few splashes of sesame oil
or some peanut butter instead.
32 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
Greek-style
one-pot with
courgette
dumplings
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON
TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME
15 MIN
• 4 tbsp olive oil
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 1 garlic clove, sliced
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 2 red peppers, deseeded and chopped
• 400g tin black-eyed beans, rinsed and
drained (see Easy Swaps)
• 400g tin chopped tomatoes
• 150g sugar snap peas
• Small handful dill, chopped, to garnish
FOR THE DUMPLINGS
• 110g self-raising flour
• 1 medium courgette (200g), grated
• 140g feta, crumbled (vegetarian, if
needs be)
1 Heat the oil in a casserole and fry the
onion for about 8 minutes until softening.
Add the garlic and cook for a further
minute. Add the cinnamon and peppers
and cook for 5 minutes more.
2 Tip in the beans and chopped tomatoes,
then rinse the tomato tin with 150ml
water and stir into the beans. Season.
Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer.
3 Meanwhile, mix the flour, courgette,
feta and some seasoning in a large mixing
bowl. Add a few tablespoons of water
and use your hands to bring the mixture
together so the courgette releases its
own juice. Roll the dough into walnut-
size balls (around 9-12), then set aside.
4 Add the sugar snaps to the stew,
arrange the dumplings on top, then cover
with a lid or a sheet of foil and cook for
15 minutes until the dumplings have
risen and are cooked through. Sprinkle
with dill and serve.
PER SERVING 438kcals, 19.5g fat (6.7g
saturated), 17.1g protein, 44.3g carbs
(12.2g sugars), 1.2g salt, 8.4g fibre
E A S Y S WA P S
Use any tinned beans you like for
this butterbeans would work
especially well.
Chilli
pork and
pineapple
rice bowl
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON
TIME 10 MIN
• 2 tbsp sunflower oil
• 400g outdoor-reared free-range pork
fillet, sliced (see Easy Swaps)
• 3cm piece fresh ginger, grated
• 1 garlic clove, crushed
• 6 spring onions, finely sliced
• ½ small pineapple, peeled and
chopped into small 1cm pieces
• 2 x 250g pre-cooked basmati rice
pouches
• 4 tbsp sweet soy sauce (or use regular
or low-salt soy sauce)
• 3 tbsp sesame oil
• Large handful coriander, chopped,
plus extra leaves to serve
• Grated zest and juice 1 lime, plus extra
wedges to serve
• Steamed pak choi to serve
1 Heat the oil in a wok and fry the pork
until just browned, then add the ginger
and garlic and cook for 1 minute. Remove
from the pan and set aside.
2 In the same pan, cook the spring
onions and pineapple for 2 minutes over
a high heat, then turn off the heat.
Return the pork, ginger and garlic
mixture along with any juices to the pan.
3 Microwave the rice pouches according
to the pack instructions. Add to the pan
with the soy sauce, sesame oil, chopped
coriander and lime juice and zest. Serve
with steamed pak choi and lime wedges
for squeezing over.
PER SERVING 529kcals, 20.2g fat (3.9g
saturated), 28g protein, 57.3g carbs
(13.4g sugars), 2.5g salt, 3g fibre
E A S Y S WA P S
This would work just as well
with chicken or turkey mince.
For a vegan/veggie supper,
substitute strips of tofu.
NEXT MONTH
Inspiring weeknight ideas
from Clodagh McKenna
Exquisite
by nature
Meet new Gourmet Nature’s Creations,
a delectable luxury meal range made
especially for your feline foodie

A
s someone who relishes the
finest seasonal ingredients WHAT’S ON THE MENU?
and exciting recipes that Discover Gourmet Nature’s Creations,
are cooked to perfection, you can the new cat food range inspired by nature.
appreciate just how much joy great Featuring slow-cooked mini fillets, product
food can spark in someone. Who highlights include:
says cats don’t feel the same way?
If your furry friend is a fussy eater, Gourmet Nature’s Creations Fish, which
you already know they do. offers a choice of succulent Rich in
Enter tasty Gourmet Nature’s OceanFish and Rich in Tuna – both are
Creations. A collection of expertly garnished with selected natural ingredients.
cooked recipes made with high-
quality selected natural Gourmet Nature’s Creations Poultry
ingredients, the tempting meals presents your cat with tender Rich in
are rich in poultry or fish. Plus, Chicken and Rich in Turkey, both of
you won’t find any added which also come with garnishes.
artificial colourants, flavourings
or preservatives in there either.
Each recipe is so carefully
crafted, it will make even the
most discerning cat savour every
bite with pleasure and purr with
delight. That’s why it’s time to
treat your kitty to the best food
inspired by nature. Gourmet
Nature’s Creations is available
at supermarkets and pet
stores nationwide.

Explore the full range at purina.co.uk

®
Reg. Trademark of Société des Produits Nestlé S.A.
BEHIND THE HEADLINES

Immune support, stress relief, weight loss, improved

sleep, memory boost, glowing skin… Whatever you’re
after, there’s an infusion promising to enhance your
wellbeing. But, asks Sue Quinn, can a hot drink that’s
99.9 per cent water really deliver health benefits?

T
he herbal tea aisle looks
more like a health and
wellness centre than
a section of the supermarket these
days. The manufacturers would like
us to think these drinks can do us
good – a lot of good. With the global
market for caffeine-free hot drinks
predicted to be worth £3.3 billion
by 2025, the world’s food and drink
giants have
joined the herbal There’s never a
tea charge.
Industry quantified dose on the
analysts report packet. Herbal tea
that new flavours
with ‘mildly
seems to get away SOME BENEFITS
stimulating with vague claims
effects and
medicinal properties’ are driving
the trend. Blends of different
herbs offering ‘multiple health
benefits’ are the most sought after,
followed by ginger, camomile
and cinnamon. Infusions designed
specifically with the wellbeing of
women in mind are also on the rise.
The boom is supported by
wellness websites and blogs saying
that the antioxidants in herbal teas
– substances that can help protect
the body against disease – make
them the healthiest hot drink
choice. “The benefits of herbal tea
might convince you to quit coffee:
everything from your skin to your
stress levels can improve”, states
one. Another says: “Get glowing
skin with these herbal teas”.
One widely shared Facebook post
(quickly rejected by scientists and
doctors) even claimed that some
herbal teas’ ‘anti-viral’ properties
could protect
against COVID-19.
Can we believe
any of the herbal
tea hype?
Some people may
get some benefit
from drinking types of herbal tea,
says registered nutritionist Dr
Laura Wyness. Camomile tea, for
example, is well known for aiding
relaxation and sleep, and it also has
antispasmodic properties that may
ease menstrual cramps. The
menthol in peppermint tea can act
as a muscle relaxant and help aid
digestion and dispel gas. And
ginger tea may help with digestive
issues, nausea and period pain.
There’s no scientific proof they work,
however. “As long as you don’t

expect miracles, herbal teas can
be a useful and healthy drink to
enjoy,” Dr Wyness says.
What about herbal teas that claim
to support specific bodily functions
and organs? Some say they can
‘detox’ the liver (spoiler: they can’t
– your liver helps detox your body)
or “help improve digestion and the
immune system”. One tea claims it
“supports respiratory health”.
Numerous teas claim to aid weight
loss because they contains herbs and
botanicals “believed to suppress the
appetite”. Often, packet information
fails to state how much of the tea
needs to be consumed to gain the
claimed benefits – or the quantity
of active ingredients in a tea.
Most health and nutrition claims
on food, drink and supplement
packaging are covered by European
regulations. Claims relating to
vitamins and minerals, for example,
must be scientifically checked and
approved before they can be printed
on the packet. But herbal teas can fall
outside these regulations because
they contain ingredients traditionally
used as remedies, explains Bridget
Benelam, a nutrition scientist and
spokesperson for the British
Nutrition Foundation. “Such claims
are based on traditional use and as
such we don’t have a strong body
of evidence to say whether they’re
likely to be effective or not,” she says.
Some teas with added nutrients,
such as vitamin C, can make
authorised health claims. “Although
it’s worth noting that having more
of a nutrient such as vitamin C may
only make a difference to health if
you weren’t getting enough
previously,” Benelam adds.
MISLEADING CLAIMS
Some nutritionists believe
regulations need tightening to
ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
protect consumers from being
misled. “Many of the health claims
on herbal teas are inaccurate and
misleading,” says nutrition
therapist Ian Marber. “Herbal tea
is 99.9 per cent water, so suggesting
it’s some kind of medicine – that
it can de-stress, detox, help
health matters.
you lose weight or whatever the
claim is – makes no sense.”
Protective plant compounds
called flavonoids found in herbs
may well have health benefits.
“But in a cup or two of herbal tea
you’re unlikely to get much of
them,” Marber says. “Multiple cups
every day might have some effect,
but there’s never a quantified dose
The global market for caffeine-
free hot drinks is predicted to
be worth £3.3 billion by 2025
on the packet. Herbal tea seems to
get away with vague claims.”
IS GREEN TEA DIFFERENT?
Green tea – which, contrary to what
many think, contains caffeine – may
be a slightly different story. Unlike
black tea, which is fermentated,
green tea is unprocessed and higher
in flavonoids. The most active of
these is epigallocatechin gallate
(EGCG), a strong antioxidant.
A growing body of evidence suggests
green tea might reduce the risk of
serious health conditions, notably
heart disease. But the results of
large controlled studies have been
inconsistent, and the health claims
are often exaggerated, according to
Dr Wyness. “Most studies on tea are
small observational human studies, TRUE OR FALSE?
or conducted on animals or with
cells in the laboratory, so results are
Health claims on herbal tea
inconclusive,” she says.
packaging are always scientifically
There is some evidence that green
proven
❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE
tea, including the powdered matcha
variety, can aid weight loss. “But Some health claims on herbal tea
the results were modest, so it’s packaging are allowed because the
unlikely to result in any notable ingredients are traditional remedies
difference in weight,” she says. ❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE
THE BOTTOM LINE Some herbal teas may confer some
There is little robust scientific benefits for some people
evidence to support many of ❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE
the health claims on herbal tea
Green tea is caffeine-free
packaging, but drinking a couple
❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE
of cups each day may benefit
some people. A growing body of Green tea has more healthful
evidence suggests green tea may properties than black tea
have health benefits, but studies ❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE
so far are inconclusive.
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 35
 MAKE IT VEGAN

Good-for-you
READY
IN 30!
‘fakeaways’
With a passion for plant-based eating, Ian and Henry better
known as BOSH! are on a mission to get more of us to ‘live
on the veg’. These better-than-a-takeaway recipes from their
new book are all ready in 30 minutes plus they’ve thrown in
their hacks for vegan cooking… Eating in never tasted so good

RECIPES IAN THEASBY AND HENRY FIRTH PHOTOGRAPHS LIZZIE MAYSON

FOOD STYLING ELENA SILCOCK STYLING SARAH BIRKS
 eat well every day.

BOSH NOSH!
Quick tandoori
kebabs

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 37
 Grill for 10 minutes, turning the
“The best way to show someone how good pieces halfway through cooking,
plant-based food can be is to cook them a dish” until golden and charred in places.
They have five books to their name, 500-plus YouTube videos and a Facebook page 2 For the raita, grate the cucumber
that attracts 26 million views a month. They’ve created plant-based versions of into a bowl. Add the mint and
everything from foie gras to victoria sponge. With that kind of output, it’s hard to coconut yogurt and mix to combine.
believe Ian Theasby and Henry Firth only cut out meat and dairy five years ago. Season with salt and black pepper
“Ian was on a health kick and I was turned on by the climate change aspect, but 3 Spread a dollop of the raita over
we quickly started thinking about animal welfare, too,” explains Henry. “Eating each warm bread, top with the
more vegetables is only going to be a good thing,” says Ian. “It’s good for your tandoori pieces and a squeeze of
health, and also the pressure that we put on our health service.” Henry believes grilled lime, then finish with
the best thing we can do to reduce our environmental impact is change our eating coriander and spring onions. Add
habits. “It doesn’t mean you have to go vegan or veggie – just think about the a pinch of chilli flakes, if using.
impact of what you’re putting on your plate and make some small changes.” PER SERVING 308kcals, 9.5g fat (2.2g
BOSH! are about how easy and tasty plant-based cooking can be. Recipes in their saturated), 25.7g protein, 24.1g carbs
new book, Speedy BOSH!, are ready in 30 minutes, with a modest list of supermarket- (5.7g sugars), 2.8g salt, 11.8g fibre
friendly ingredients, and it includes the guys’ top hacks for fast, flavour-packed
food. “It’s been exciting over the past few years, learning what you can achieve
cooking with plants,” says Ian. “A fantastic flavour journey!” Henry agrees. “The Frying-pan samosa pie
best way to show someone how good plant-based food can be is to cook them a dish.” SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN

This dish has all the flavours

Quick tandoori kebabs
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN
Henry’s mum showed him
how to make a tandoori mix
many years ago. It’s all about
good-quality yogurt and
wonderful spices (and if you
want a shortcut you can even
buy ready-made tandoori
spice). For this recipe, we’ve
used our own spice mix and
plant-based chick’n chunks
to create a kebab-shop-style
dish with a tangy mint raita.
Get your grill hot, hot, HOT,
to mirror the tandoor oven,
and get ready for a marinated
masterpiece of a fakeaway!
Look for Alt Tender
FOOD
TEAM’S Chickenless pieces or
TIP
This Isn’t Chicken
Plant-based Sea-salt & Black
Pepper Pieces, from Tesco,
larger supermarkets and health
food shops.
• Handful fresh coriander
• 3 spring onions, sliced
• 1 tsp chilli flakes (optional)
FOR THE MARINADE
• 1 garlic clove
• Thumb-size piece fresh ginger
• 200g coconut yogurt
• 1 tbsp tomato purée
• 1 tbsp garam masala
• 2 tsp hot smoked paprika
• 1 tsp ground cumin
• 1 tsp ground turmeric
• 1 tsp salt
FOR THE RAITA
• ½ cucumber, halved lengthways
and deseeded
• Handful fresh mint leaves, chopped
• 150g unsweetened coconut yogurt
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• Baking tray lined with
compostable baking paper
1 Heat the grill to high. To make
the marinade, grate the garlic and
ginger into a bowl, then add the
of our favourite Indian snack in
a giant pie – seriously. Potato,
cauliflower and peas form the
bulk of the filling and the spice
profile is simple, familiar and
effective. The top of the pie is
made from crispy filo pastry,
which makes this pie look as good
as it tastes. If you like samosas,
you need to give this a go.
Make the curry filling up to
MAKE a day ahead, then cover and
AHEAD
chill before completing the
recipe to serve. The topping is best
made on the day.
• 2 baking potatoes, chopped into
2cm pieces
• 1 small or ½ large cauliflower
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil
• 2 garlic cloves
• Thumb-size piece fresh ginger
• 1 fresh green chilli, chopped
(deseeded, if you like)
• 1 tbsp curry powder
• 2 tsp ground turmeric
• 1 tsp fennel seeds
• 350ml vegetable stock
INTERVIEW: PHOEBE STONE

remaining ingredients and mix well. • 175g frozen peas

• 500g plant-based ‘chicken’
chunks (see tip)
• 2 limes, cut into wedges
• 4 dairy-free naans, chapatis or
rotis, toasted or warmed
Add the ‘chicken’ chunks to the • Small bunch fresh coriander,
marinade and toss to coat. Tip the roughly chopped
contents of the bowl onto the • Juice 1 lime
prepared baking tray. Add the • Unsweetened coconut yogurt to
limes to the tray, cut-side up. serve →

38 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
eat well every day.

SIMPLY PANTASTIC
Frying-pan
samosa pie
 FOR THE TOPPING
• 6 filo pastry sheets
• Vegetable oil to brush
• Nigella seeds to sprinkle
1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/
gas 6. Tip the potatoes into a large
microwaveable bowl, cover and
microwave on high for 4-6 minutes.
2 Roughly chop the cauliflower into
bite-size chunks. Add to the bowl
with the potatoes and microwave
for 6 minutes more.
3 Meanwhile, make the topping (see
Make Ahead). Take a sheet of pastry
and brush with vegetable oil, then
sprinkle with nigella seeds. Scrunch
it up into a rough shape (the 6 shapes
together should cover the top of
your frying pan) and put it on the
baking tray. Repeat with the rest of
the pastry sheets and bake for 6-8
minutes until golden, keeping an
eye on them – they can turn from
golden to overcooked very quickly!
4 For the filling, add the 1 tbsp veg
oil to the frying pan and put it over
a high heat. Grate the garlic and
ginger directly into the pan and add
the chilli along with a pinch of salt.
5 Add the curry powder, turmeric
and fennel seeds, then tip in the
cooked cauliflower and potato
chunks. Stir to coat in the spices,
add the stock and season well. Cover
the pan and cook for 2-3 minutes.
6 Take off the lid and use a fork or
potato masher to lightly smush the
mixture. Add the peas to the pan
and cook for 2 minutes, then remove
from the heat. Add the coriander and
stir it through the mixture. Squeeze
in the lime juice, then stir it through.
7 To assemble, top the frying pan
with the filo scrunches and bring it
to the table. Serve straight from the
pan with a dollop of coconut yogurt.
PER SERVING 379kcals, 10.6g fat
(0.8g saturated), 9.8g protein,
58.4g carbs (4.3g sugars), 0.3g salt,
5.4g fibre
Spicy dan dan noodles
SERVES 2-3. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
This is one of the most
surprising recipes in our new
book – a classic Chinese recipe
with incredible flavour. It may
not be much to look at, but it
wows the taste buds with its
punchy flavours. And the noodles
are great at absorbing flavour.
Trust us, you’ll love this recipe.
It’s one of Ian’s all-time faves.
Look for Vivera Plant Mince
FOOD
TEAM’S
or Clearspring Organic Soya
TIP
Mince from Tesco, larger
supermarkets and health food shops.
• 1 tbsp sesame oil, plus extra if
needed
• 125g mushrooms (we used
shiitake), finely chopped
• 200g plant-based mince (see tip)
• 200g ramen noodles (or
whichever noodles you prefer)
• 2 garlic cloves
• Thumb-size piece fresh ginger
• 1 tsp chinese five-spice powder
• 3 spring onions, sliced
• Chilli oil for drizzling
• 2 tbsp sesame seeds
FOR THE SAUCE
• 2 tbsp tahini
• 2 tbsp soy sauce
• 1 tbsp rice vinegar or balsamic
vinegar
• 1 tbsp sesame oil
• 1 tsp sugar
• 1 tsp chilli flakes
1 Heat the sesame oil in a hot frying
pan, then add the mushrooms and
mince with a pinch of salt. Fry for
about 10 minutes, stirring regularly,
until you’re left with a crispy
mixture (turn down the heat if you
find it sticks to the pan too much).
2 Meanwhile, cook the noodles
according to the packet instructions.
Drain and rinse with cold water.
3 Mix all the sauce ingredients in
a bowl with 50ml cold water.
4 Grate the garlic into the mince pan
with the ginger. Add the chinese
five-spice and cook for 1 minute,
adding a splash more sesame oil if
the mixture looks too dry.
5 Pour in a third of the sauce and
cook for 2 minutes until the mince
is slightly browned. Remove half
the mince mixture and set it aside.
Reduce the heat to low. Transfer the
cooked noodles to the pan and add
most of the spring onions. Increase
the heat, pour in the remaining
sauce and stir well, adding a splash
of water to loosen if necessary.
6 Divide the noodle mixture among
2-3 bowls. Top with the reserved
crispy mince, then finish each
portion with a drizzle of chilli oil,
sesame seeds and the remaining
spring onions.
PER SERVING (FOR 3) 547kcals,
22.9g fat (3.6g saturated), 17.8g
protein, 63.2g carbs (8g sugars),
3.3g salt, 8.5g fibre →

TOP 5 VEGAN FOOD HACKS

1 GET SAUCY Melt vegan
cheddar with plant-based
milk for gooey cheesiness.
Beat plain flour into oat
cream, then add almond
milk and heat to get
a speedy white sauce.
2 USE TOFU Coat firm tofu in
cornflour and shallow fry for
crispy goodness; blend silken
tofu into a thick cream for
savoury and sweet recipes.
3 BOOST FLAVOUR Use
ingredients such as miso
paste, nutritional yeast,
soy, maple syrup, molasses,
smoked paprika, cinnamon,
coffee or dark chocolate to
add depth/umami flavour.
4 JACKFRUIT Drain tinned
jackfruit, then toss with a
spice rub and oven bake for
a smoky ‘pulled-meat’ treat.
5 USE READY-MADE Jars of
artichokes, roasted peppers
and sun-dried tomatoes
impart rich, slow-cooked
flavour to ragùs and more.

40 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 eat well every day.

GIVE ’EM A TWIRL

Spicy dan dan
noodles
eat well every day.
SPEEDY SPAGHETTI
You’ll swear
it’s meaty
Super meaty spag bol
SERVES 3-4. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN
Spaghetti bolognese is
a favourite in the BOSH!
household. We like to cook it
at least once a week, so we had
to make a speedy version. By
blitzing and browning quality
plant-based sausages and using
spring onions we can make our
bolognese sauce in the same
time the pasta takes to cook.
It’s ingenious – and a great way
to satisfy the family.
GET THE
BOOK! Nutritional yeast flakes add
These recipes are KNOW- a lightly cheesy/nutty flavour
HOW
from Speedy to dishes. Use with other
BOSH! by Henry
Firth and Ian ingredients as a flavouring or as
Theasby. It’s out a finishing sprinkle before serving.
now (HQ £22). Look for BOSH! Nooch! Nutritional
42 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
Yeast from ocado.com, or try larger
supermarkets and health food shops.
• 1 celery stick, roughly chopped
• 1 small carrot, roughly chopped
• 4 plant-based sausages,
defrosted if necessary (we like
Birds Eye Green Cuisine
Succulent Meat-free Sausages)
• Handful fresh thyme and/or sage
• 1 tbsp tomato purée
• ½ garlic clove, crushed
• 1 tsp fennel seeds
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
• 1 tsp soy sauce
• 1 tsp nutritional yeast (see
Know-how)
• 400g tin chopped tomatoes
• 1 tbsp ketchup
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 cinnamon stick
• ½ orange
FOR THE SPAGHETTI
• 2 tbsp fine sea salt
• 400g spaghetti
• Plant-based parmesan-style
cheese to serve
• Extra-virgin olive oil to serve
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• Food processor
1 Add the celery and carrot to the
food processor with the sausages
and pulse until finely chopped. Add
the thyme and/or sage leaves,
tomato purée, garlic and fennel
seeds and pulse a few more times.
2 Heat the olive oil in a large frying
pan, then tip in the mince mixture
and stir-fry for a few minutes. Add
the balsamic vinegar, soy sauce,
nutritional yeast, chopped
tomatoes, ketchup, bay leaf and
cinnamon stick. Squeeze in the juice
from the orange, stir and leave to
simmer while you cook the pasta.
3 Cook the spaghetti in salted water
until al dente (still with some bite),
according to the packet instructions.
4 Remove the cinnamon and bay leaf
from the sauce and discard. Use
tongs to slosh the cooked pasta into
the sauce in the pan, bringing some
of the pasta water with it. Mix using
the tongs, adding more pasta water
if it looks dry. Serve with plant-
based parmesan-style cheese and
a drizzle of olive oil.
PER SERVING (FOR 4) 556kcals,
12.1g fat (1.4g saturated), 22.3g
protein, 85.1g carbs (12.6g sugars),
1.4g salt, 9g fibre
 NOTES FROM OUR (VIRTUAL)

T E S T K I T CHEN
The delicious. team may not be in our office test kitchen, but every recipe is still
put through its paces in the food team’s homes and circulated via pictures (while
the rest of us salivate!). Food editor Jen Bedloe shares her favourite new supermarket
buys, gadgets or kit she’s tested, and the useful intel she’s gleaned this month

H OT O N T H E S H ELV ES
GADGET

NEW POSH CRISPS ALERT!
Kettle claims its new Thai
Sweet Chilli crisps are the
best. Although I haven’t done a
comparison, they taste pretty
good to me: sweet and not too
fiery with a touch of star anise.
The best bit, though,
is the crunch. Look
out for other flavours
in the new range
such as Truffled
Cheese & A Splash of
English Sparkling
Wine (left). Yum.
£1.99 for 150g,
in supermarkets now
RAISE YOUR WEEKEND FRY-UP GAME
Clonakilty in Cork, in the
southwest of Ireland, is famous
for its black pudding, but they
also make a white version that’s
more like pork sausage. We cut
ours into chunky slices, then
fried them, but you could bake
them on a tray in a hot oven. My
son Jack said they tasted like
mini sausage burgers. I loved
the texture of the oatmeal.
2 for 200g, Sainsbury’s
THE
PROPER PICKLES TEST
I’m a fan of serving
a sarnie or cheesy When it comes to pans, I don’t
bake with a pickle want gimmicks, just rock-solid
on the side, and I’ve
reliability and a non-stick surface
recently discovered Vadasz
cold-brined pickles in M&S – so The Whatever Pan sounds a bit grumpy
fresh and crunchy compared to adolescent, but unlike a stroppy teen it’s
vinegary versions. I munched pretty handy in the kitchen. I’ve had one
the Garlic & Dill pickles with for a couple of months in my WFH test
cold cuts and cheese, straight kitchen and have put it through its
from the tub. The Red Onion paces on all sorts of dishes that require
pickles and Raw Kimchi are a non-stick pan or griddle.
also great. And a bonus: the It’s versatile – it comes with a lid
pickles are fermented and and neatly transfers from hob to oven
unpasteurised so they’re good to table (just remember those hot
for your gut. £4.50 for 400g handles!). The pan’s made from cast
aluminium, which is light, sturdy and
reliable, and it washes up like a dream.
GOD’S OWN MUFFINS? Steak and sausages cooked just as
During lockdown, beautifully as sliced courgettes and
our homemade potatoes. It comes with an affordable
sausage and egg price tag and a 25-year guarantee.
muffin recipe £37.50 from jean-patrique.co.uk
(a homage to a
certain takeaway
chain) went viral
on social media,
but just think how impressive
they’d be made with these
huge muffins from Jacksons
bakery. They don’t do things
by halves in Yorkshire, eh?
Find our recipe at delicious
magazine.co.uk and Jacksons
Proper Yorkshire Muffins,
£1.89 for a pack of 3, at Waitrose

44 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

LOVE YOUR FREEZER
10 TIPS: MAKE I
EASY, KEEP IT F
1 COOL hot food before freezing to
avoid your freezer warming up
and causing other frozen food to
partially defrost.
2 STOCK the freezer amply as it
makes it run more efficiently
and cost-effectively.
3 PACK WISELY Freeze food in
airtight containers or freezer bags
to prevent freezer burn and stop food
drying out. Fill containers to the top
– unless it’s liquid and will expand,
in which case leave a 1cm gap.
4 FREEZE FLAT When freezing
liquids (soups and so on) in bags,
squeeze out the air before sealing
and freeze flat if possible so the bags
take up less room. This also helps
food freeze more quickly, which
prevents large ice crystals forming.
5 MAKE CUBES For smaller amounts
such as sauces, herb butters and
chopped fresh herbs in oil, freeze in
ice cube trays, then pop out the
cubes and store in a freezer bag.
6 LABEL AND DATE food so you can
find what you want and keep an
eye on what needs to be eaten up
first. The recommended maximum
storage time is 3-6 months, to
ensure the food is at its edible best.
eat well every day.
A
AUTUMN
FR
RUIT GLUT
Don’t discard
bleemished or wasp-
nibbbled fruit. Pears,
ap
com
pples and plums
mbine beautifully
iin th
this delightful rosy
7 FREEZE STRAIGHTAWAY If you’re
not sure when you’re going to eat
a pack of sausages or chicken
coloured jam, known
for some reason as
breasts, freeze them straight after
High Dumpsy Dearie
buying so they’re as fresh as possible
when they go into the freezer. Put 900g each chopped
8 FREEZE IN PORTIONS so you can
defrost only the amount you need.
apples, pears and plums in
a preserving pan with 50g
9 DON’T RE-FREEZE food that’s
already been frozen unless it’s
been cooked in a recipe in between.
chopped fresh ginger (tied in
a muslin bag) and enough
water to cover the base of the
For example, you can defrost a pack pan. Simmer gently, stirring,
of mince, cook it to make a ragù, for 45 minutes to soften. Add
then freeze the ragù.
10 SAFE DEFROSTING For best
results, slow-defrost food in the
2kg jam sugar, then stir over
the heat until the sugar has
melted. Add the grated zest
fridge overnight before cooking to and juice of 1 lemon, bring to
avoid the growth of harmful bacteria. the boil and boil for 15 minutes
Some dishes can be cooked straight or until the jam reaches setting
from the freezer, though – freeze point (1
pies and casseroles in individual foil
containers,for example, ready to pop
straight into a low oven (160°C) to
probe/su
Scoop off a
to the sur
cook slowly until piping hot all the and dis
way through. Microwaves are useful ginger, the
for defrosting raw meat you’re going
to cook – but make sure the food
doesn’t start cooking. A tip for
knob of but
the fruit s
then seal
prawns: defrost quickly by putting hot in steri
in a sieve and running under cold jars and l
water, then use straightaway. when coole
L OO SE E NDS
Don’t let leftover
ingredients linger – use up
open packets or jars (all
from recipes in this issue)
with these easy ideas from deputy
food editor Sophie Austen Smith
GO-WITH-ANYTHING
ALLSPICE JERK RUB
From maple and
spice pumpkin pie Mix 1 tbsp caster sugar
p66 & spicy prawn and 1 tbsp garlic
tomato stew
p106
granules with 4 tsp dried
thyme and 2 tsp each
salt, ground black pepper and ground
allspice. Add ½ tsp fresh ground nutmeg,
½ tsp ground cinnamon and 1 tsp cayenne
pepper. To use the jerk rub, mix 2-3 tbsp of
it with 2-3 tbsp oil and rub over chicken
thighs, pork steaks or cauliflower steaks,
then grill/roast until cooked and charred.
TURKISH-STYLE FLATBREADS
Put 1 small red onion, 1 deseeded green
pepper and ½ tsp each ground cinnamon,
chilli flakes and ground allspice in a mini
blender with 1 tsp ground cumin and a
handful of fresh parsley. Whizz to a paste,
then stir in 2 tbsp tomato purée. Mix with
200g beef or lamb mince, spread over 2-3
flatbreads and bake at 200°C/180°C fan/
Warming
carrot cake
46 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
gas 6 for 12-15 minutes u
molasses if you like.
until
golden. Drizzle with pomegranate
WARMING CARROT CAK KE
Search deliciousmagazin ne.co.uk for ‘easy
carrot cake’ but add ½ tssp ground allspice
with the ground cinnamon in step 4 for
a lightly spiced twist on a classic.
SPINACH AND PANEER
GHEE CURRY
Heat 1½ tbsp ghee in
From lamb
meatball
a large pan until melted,
biryani p82
add 1 finely sliced onion
and cook until golden.
Stir in 2 tbsp of your favourite curry paste,
add 300g baby leaf spinach and 225g cubed
paneer, then cook until the spinach has
wilted. Stir in 100g natural yogurt, warm
through and serve with steamed rice.
SPICED & SLICED FRIED BANANA
Slice 3 bananas, then toss in 1 tsp ground
cinnamon and ½ tsp ground ginger. Heat
1-2 tbsp ghee in a pan and fry the banana
slices until golden and crisp. Serve over
vanilla ice cream, topped with some grated
dark chocolate.
GARLIC GHEE NAAN
Mix 250g strong white bread flour in a
large bowl with 7g fast-action yeast, ½ tsp
salt and ½ tsp sugar. Mix 100g natural
yogurt with 1 tbsp sunflower oil and 75ml
water, pour onto the dry mix and bring
together into a rough dough – add a splash
more water if needed. Tip out and knead
until smooth. Cover and set aside for
1 hour. Put 3 finely chopped garlic cloves
in a small pan with 3-4 tbsp ghee and
gently heat to infuse, then set aside. Divide
the dough into 8 pieces, roll out, then cook
the naans in a hot frying pan for 2-3
minutes on each side until golden and
puffed. Brush with garlic ghee to serve.
CAULIFLOWER
‘CHEESE’ GRATIN
NUTRITIONAL
YEAST Cut 1 large cauliflower
From super into about 8 wedges, put
meaty spag bol
p42 in a roasting tin and cook
at 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6
for 10 minutes. Put 400ml soy cream in
a pan with 5 tbsp nutritional yeast,
1 crushed garlic clove, 1 bay leaf, a sprig
of thyme and a few twists of black pepper.
Mix 1 ttbsp cornflour with 1 tbsp
cold w water and add to the pan.
Whisking all the time, bring to
a simmmer, then pour over the
cauliflow wer. Toss 100g breadcrumbs
with a handful of chopped parsley and
a glug of oil, then scatter over the top.
Bake for 15-20 minutes more until golden.
GRILLED MAC ’N’ GREENS
Melt 60g dairy-free spread, then whisk in
45g plain flour until combined, gradually
adding 600ml plant-based milk until
thickened. Stir in 4 tbsp nutritional yeast,
2 tsp mustard (check it’s vegan if need be),
30g grated dairy-free cheese and plenty
of black pepper. Gently mix in 350g cooked
pasta and 300g cooked vegetables. Spoon
into a baking dish, scatter over more
grated dairy-free cheese and grill until
golden and bubbling.
‘CAESAR’ DRESSING
Whisk together 1 crushed garlic clove,
2 tbsp nutritional yeast, 4 tbsp egg-free
mayonnaise, 1 tbsp white wine vinegar and
the grated zest and juice of ½ lemon.
Season to taste and add a splash of water
or oil to loosen slightly. Serve with salad,
roasted veg or as a dip for crudités.
CREAMY MUSHROOM
SINGLE LINGUINE
CREAM Cook 150g linguine
From salted
toffee apples according to the packet
p6 instructions. Fry 250g
sliced mushrooms in
a splash of oil until golden, then reduce
the heat and add 75g garlic and herb soft
cheese with 6 tbsp single cream. Stir until
melted, then stir in the cooked linguine
to coat, adding a splash of pasta cooking
water if needed. Sprinkle with chopped
parsley and grated parmesan to serve.
CELERIAC AND PANCETTA SOUP
Heat a glug of oil in a large pan, then fry a
grated onion until softened. Add 1 crushed
garlic clove and ½ tsp each ground cumin
and ground coriander. Fry for 1 minute.
Stir in 1 diced celeriac and 1 large diced
floury potato, then pour in 1 litre stock to
cover. Bring to the boil, then simmer for
20 minutes until the veg are cooked. Whizz
until smooth, stir in 100ml single cream,
season well, then scatter with crispy
pancetta pieces to serve.
 eat well every day.

EASY SWAP THE SECRET TRY IT YOURSELF

Fish sauce is used
in many Asian veg-
INGREDIENT Search for these
recipes at

based salads and O F T H E P R O S… deliciousmagazine.co.uk:

stir-fries, making
them unsuitable for
vegetarians/vegans.
Trying to re-create
the umami flavours
at home without
adding fish sauce isnn’tt easy,
but you can get close by adding dried
seaweed flakes to your recipe. There
are a few brands now being stocked
by the major supermarkets, such as
Mara Seaweed Shony seasoning in
Tesco stores (£3 for 3 x 10g sachets).
damson & clotted
cream ice cream;
If you make your own ice cream but apple crumble
struggle to pull off the creamy mouthfeel ice cream
and slow melting texture of premium brands,
here’s something to try from Sous Chef. Mix
a small amount of this magic powder (a blend
of glucose and natural thickeners) with
the sugar and milk/cream in your
usual recipe and, after resting for
15 minutes, you’re ready to
continue with the recipe. It
works by preventing large
ice crystals forming as the
mixture freezes and leaves
you with a deliciously soft,
scoop-able ice cream.
BUY IT Ice Cream Stabiliser,
£4.99 for 50g, souschef.co.uk
just for you.
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48 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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 ESCAPE
FISH PIE MASTERCLASS 50 O PUMPKINS SWEET AND SAVOURY 58OMARY BERRY’S SUNDAY ROAST 68
MEET THE COFFEE PRODUCER 78OMOVIE NIGHT 80ODRINKS MATCHING 85
COVER TART 86OJOHN WHAITE IN MAURITIUS 88 GIANT JAFFA CAKE 96 
BITE-SIZE STAYCATION 98O FOOD CULTURE IN A WAR ZONE 102
ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
CALUM FRANKLIN’S
fish pie masterclass
It’s fish pie season again – hooray! Chef Calum Franklin, the king of pies, shares his ultimate
recipe from his debut cookbook, along with two Franklinesque twists and his tips to achieve
perfection. There’s another key ingredient, he says: a good pie begins with a happy kitchen

THE THEORY OF PIE

Calum works with
senior pie chef
Nokx Majozi (above)
to create new ideas
using traditional
tools and methods
 make it special.

UPPER CRUST
The ultimate fish pie

RECIPES CALUM FRANKLIN PHOTOGRAPHS JOHN CAREY

ART DIRECTION AND DESIGN PETER MOFFAT AND MARIE O’SHEPHERD

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 51
 F
or Calum Franklin, the pie (never use the word humble!)
represents a world of creative possibilities. “Making a super-
tasty filling comes first,” he says, “then when you wrap that in
pastry, you have a blank canvas to create on.” He’s talking about the
elaborate pastry patterns (such as those in the sketches here) that
have made his pies famous. But that success isn’t just down to him, he
insists: “I give my team free rein to come up with something beautiful.”
Design-mad Calum grew up in London, and the city’s many and
varied architectural details provide ample inspiration for his crusty
creations. Staff are sent on expeditions for ideas, and they get them
from everything from door handles to stained glass. Calum reckons
that giving the staff that independence pays off: “Putting their own
stamp on something brings out people’s pride in their work.”
Cultivating talent and creating a supportive atmosphere is what it’s
all about for Calum. “I respect regimented kitchens but ours is different
– we treat each other like family.” It’s a close-knit one at that (two of
the team attended Calum’s wedding) and he’s dedicated a section in
his debut book, The Pie Room (out this month), to his chefs. “None of
them knew that chapter was in there until they saw the book,” he says.
Why did he do it? “We built this together. It’s my thank you to them.”
Calum hopes his book will dispel any fears about making pastry and
popularise the idea of making a pie for someone. “A pie is a lovely gift –
it’s handcrafted and takes a bit of love to create.” But there’s a downside:
“Nowadays, people get upset if I come to visit and don’t bring a pie!”

IT TAKES A VILLAGE TO
RAISE A PIE Calum (in blue)
with his senior team

A BIT ABOUT CALUM He’s the

executive chef of Holborn Dining
Room, a grand British brasserie
in the heart of London. Calum
created The Pie Room at the
restaurant in 2018 – a kitchen and
pie shop designed to reflect the
rich history of savoury pastry in
Britain across the centuries. He
was awarded Hotel Chef of the
Year 2019 at the prestigious Catey
Awards, and Holborn Dining Room
WORDS: PHOEBE STONE

ranked among the top restaurants

in the UK at the highly competitive
National Restaurant Awards in
2019. If you haven’t tasted one of
Calum’s pies, now’s the time…

VERSION ONE
The ultimate fish pie
SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN.
SIMMERING TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME
30-40 MIN
Allow the elements to cool,
MAKE then assemble the pie up to
AHEAD
a day ahead. You can freeze
leftovers for up to a month; defrost
fully before reheating thoroughly.
This pie is full of flavour as
FOOD
TEAM’S it is but, for an extra kick,
TIP
serve with Tabasco sauce.
FOR THE FILLING
• 500ml whole milk
• 300ml double cream
• 300g sustainable skinless,
boneless cod fillets, cut into
2.5cm dice
• 200g sustainable skinless,
boneless salmon fillet, cut into
2.5cm dice
• 200g sustainable skinless,
boneless smoked haddock fillet,
cut into 2.5cm dice
• 150g sustainable peeled raw
tiger prawns
• 60g butter
• 60g plain flour
• 300g frozen peas, thawed
• 30g capers
• 30g fresh chives, finely chopped
• 30g fresh flatleaf parsley, leaves
picked and chopped
• 1 tbsp dijon mustard
• ¾ tsp salt
• 50g cheddar, grated
FOR THE POTATO TOPPING
• 1.2kg king edward potatoes,
peeled and quartered
• 200ml whole milk
• 100ml double cream
• 60g butter
• 2 medium free-range egg yolks,
beaten
• ¾ tsp salt
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• Deep ovenproof dish, about
30cm x 20cm x 5cm
1 To make the topping, put the
potatoes in a pan and add enough
salted water to just cover them.
Bring to the boil, then reduce the
heat and simmer until the potatoes
are tender. Drain and allow to steam
dry for a few minutes in a colander
set over the hot pan. Add the 200ml
milk, 100ml double cream and 60g
butter to the pan, then mash the
potatoes until smooth. Mix in the
egg yolks and salt, then set aside.
2 Next make the filling. Pour the
milk and cream into a medium pan
and bring to a simmer. Drop the
diced fish and peeled prawns into
the simmering liquid and poach for
2 minutes. Drain the fish, reserving
make it special.
HOW TO GET IT RIGHT
Tony Fleming, my old boss,
said the perfect fish pie must be
bubbling down the sides of the
dish and browned on the surface
or it’s not a good one. At the time
we were working in a fine-dining
restaurant where the food
presentation was all about
accuracy, finesse and clean lines,
so the look of the fish pie went
against the grain of everything
else we did there. But Tony was
right: a fish pie should be homely,
rustic and even messy – that’s
what makes it so appealing and
gets the taste buds firing when it
arrives on the dining table.
the poaching liquid; set both aside.
3 Wipe out the pan and add the
butter, bring it to a bubble over
a medium heat, then whisk in the
flour. Reduce the heat to low and
cook for 8 minutes, whisking
continuously. Gradually add half the
reserved poaching liquid and bring
the mixture back to a simmer,
whisking continuously to prevent
lumps forming. Add the remaining
poaching liquid and cook until thick
and smooth. Mix in the peas, capers,
chives, parsley, mustard and salt.
4 Return the drained fish to the pan
and lightly fold into the sauce, being
careful not to break it up. Spoon the
mixture into a deep ovenproof dish
and level it (see Make Ahead).
5 Spread the mash topping over the
pie mixture, taking it right to the
edges of the dish, then ruffle the top
with a fork to create texture. Scatter
the grated cheese evenly over the
surface of the pie.
6 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/
gas 6. Put the dish on a large baking
sheet in the hot oven and bake for
30-40 minutes or until the sauce is
bubbling up at the sides and the
potato topping has a crisp golden
crust. Serve (see tip).
PER SERVING (FOR 8) 775kcals,
51.2g fat (29.4g saturated), 32.6g
protein, 43g carbs (7.2g sugars),
2.1g salt, 5.8g fibre →
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 53
 ADDING AN ELEMENT OF SURPRISE
Breaking through the flaky pastry on the top of this pie releases
all its curry aromas. The cod is interchangeable with other
firm-fleshed white fish, like hake or coley, and the tamarind can be
swapped for the juice of half a lime if you find it difficult to get hold
of. As this pie is a meal in itself, I wouldn’t serve it with rice, but if
you can’t have curry without it, I’m not going to stop you!

THE KICK INSIDE

Hot and sour
curried cod pie

54 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

VERSION TWO
Hot and sour
curried cod pie
SERVES 2-3. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN
TIME 25 MIN, PLUS COOLING AND CHILLING
Make the filling to the end
MAKE of step 2 up to a day ahead,
AHEAD
then prepare the fish and
assemble to cook. If you’re making
your own rough puff pastry, see
right for Make Ahead instructions.
• Fine sea salt for sprinkling
• 400g sustainable skinless,
boneless cod fillet, diced
into 2cm chunks
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil
• 1 tsp black mustard seeds
• 2 Spanish onions, thinly sliced
• 1 garlic clove, finely chopped
• 2 green chillies, deseeded and
finely chopped
• 1 tsp hot curry powder
• ½ tsp ground turmeric
• 1 tsp ground cumin
• 6 plum tomatoes, roughly chopped
• 2 tbsp tamarind paste
• 20g fresh coriander, stalks and
leaves roughly chopped
• 300g rough puff pastry (see
recipe, right, or use shop-bought)
• 1 medium free-range egg, beaten
with 1 tbsp water
• Pinch fennel seeds
• Pinch black sesame seeds
• Steamed broccoli florets, butter
and toasted flaked almonds
to serve
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• Shallow ovenproof dish (about
1 litre)
1 Sprinkle salt all over the cod and
set aside for 15 minutes. Rinse well
in cold water, pat dry with kitchen
paper, then put in the fridge.
2 Heat the oil in a large frying pan
for 1 minute over a medium heat.
Add the mustard seeds, sizzle for
30 seconds, then add the onions
and a pinch of salt and cook for
10 minutes until the onions are well
cooked and starting to colour. Add
the garlic and chillies and cook for
a further minute before adding →
KEY TECHNIQUE
Rough puff pastry
MAKES 1.25KG (ENOUGH FOR AROUND 4 LARGE
PIES). HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, PLUS CHILLING
The dough will keep in the
MAKE fridge for up to 3 days or
AHEAD
for 1 month in the freezer.
If freezing, weigh out the dough into
the quantities needed for individual
recipes – it will take less time to thaw
– and defrost in the fridge overnight.
FOOD Keep everything as cold as
TEAM’S possible and work quickly to
TIP
avoid the pastry becoming
greasy and hard to work with.
• 500g plain flour, plus extra to dust
• 1 tsp salt
• 500g butter, frozen and grated
• 250ml ice-cold water
1 If making the pastry by hand, sift
the flour into a large bowl and add the
salt and butter. Using your fingers,
gently mix to a rough dough. If making
in a mixer, use a paddle attachment
and work briefly on a medium speed
until the butter is coated in flour and
the mixture becomes grainy.
2 Add the ice-cold water all at once,
then use your hands to mix it in or
continue at a medium speed just long
enough to bring the dough together.
The dough should be straggly and
rough, with the fat still visible, so
don’t work it for too long.
3 Tip the mixture out onto a lightly
make it special.
floured surface and carefully knead
until all the flour is incorporated.
Flatten the dough slightly, wrap
tightly and chill for 30 minutes.
4 On a lightly floured surface, roll out
the dough to a 30cm x 50cm
rectangle, using the sides of your
hands to make the edges neat and
square. Dust excess flour from the
surface of the dough. With the
shorter side closest to you, visually
divide the dough into thirds. Lightly
dampen the centre third with a little
water, then fold the bottom third of
the dough up over the centre third.
Then fold the top third over the
double layer of dough, like a letter.
5 Turn the dough 90 degrees
clockwise and repeat the rolling and
folding process. This makes up the
second turn. Tightly wrap the dough,
then lightly press your finger into the
bottom right-hand corner of the dough
to indicate how it was positioned on
the board before you put it into the
fridge. Chill the dough for 30 minutes.
6 Unwrap the dough and put it on the
work surface with the indent in the
same position as before. Next, turn
the dough 90 degrees clockwise and
repeat the rolling and folding process
twice more for the final two turns.
Chill for at least 40 minutes before
using (see Make Ahead).
PER 300g (¼ RECIPE) 1,390kcals,
104g fat (65.6g saturated), 13.2g
protein, 97g carbs (1.4g sugars),
3.5g salt, 5g fibre

the dry spices and cooking for
another minute. Add the tomatoes
and tamarind and cook for a further
10 minutes, then stir in the
coriander and set aside to cool
(see Make Ahead).
3 Once cool, add the cod to the
filling and spoon into a shallow
ovenproof dish just large enough
to hold the mixture.
4 On a lightly floured surface, roll
out the pastry into a 1cm thick disc.
Brush the outside lip of the dish
with a little of the egg wash and
lay over the pastry disc, pressing
it against the lip to seal. Trim off
anything beyond a 2cm overlap
with a small knife. Brush the pastry
with the remaining egg and sprinkle
over the fennel, sesame seeds
BOOK and a touch of sea salt. Chill for
OFFER 20 minutes.
These recipes 5 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/
were adapted
from The Pie gas 7. Put the dish in the hot oven
Room by Calum and bake the pie for 25-30 minutes
Franklin or until golden. Remove from the
(Bloomsbury
oven and serve with steamed
Absolute £26), out
on 24 September. broccoli tossed in a little butter and
Order your copy sprinkled with toasted almonds.
for the special PER SERVING (FOR 3) 665kcals,
price of £20.80
using the code 33.4.g fat (13.3g saturated), 35.7g
DELICIOUS20 at protein, 51.4g carbs (15.1g sugars),
bloomsbury.com 1.4g salt, 7.8g fibre
56 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
VERSION THREE
Salmon and minted pea
filo parcels
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
SIMMERING TIME 2 MIN, OVEN TIME 20 MIN,
PLUS COOLING
The recipe makes excess
CALUM’S pea purée. Freeze leftovers,
TIPS
then reheat to serve later.
Pop some vine cherry tomatoes,
dressed in olive oil and salt, on the
roasting tray 10 minutes before the
parcels are ready – you’ll have a
complete meal in very little time.
• 2 x 250g sustainable skinless,
boneless salmon fillets
• 4 filo pastry sheets (20cm x 30cm
each)
• 20g butter, melted
FOR THE MINTED PEA PURÉE
• 250g frozen peas, thawed
• 15g butter, melted
• 15g fresh mint leaves, roughly
chopped
• ¼ tsp table salt
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• Food processor or blender; baking
tray lined with compostable
baking paper
1 To make the pea purée, bring
a medium pan of salted water to
the boil, drop in the peas, allow the
water to return to the boil and cook
for 2 minutes. Drain the peas, put
half (125g cooked weight) into a
food processor or blender with the
melted butter, pulse to a coarse
purée and transfer to a bowl. Refresh
the other half of the peas in iced
water, drain, then stir through the
puréed peas with the mint and salt.
Set aside to cool.
2 Cut each salmon fillet diagonally
into two right-angled triangles. Lay
a sheet of filo on a board with one
shorter edge facing you. Lightly
brush with melted butter. Lay one
triangle of salmon in the bottom
third of the pastry so the long
diagonal edge runs from the bottom
right corner up and across to the
left-hand side. Trim both long edges
of the pastry so they extend 1cm
beyond the edges of the salmon.
Discard the trimmings.
3 Spread 2 tbsp of the pea mixture
over the salmon. Slide your hand
under the pastry sheet and tightly
fold the bottom left corner of the
pastry and salmon up and over
diagonally to the right. Next, fold the
bottom right corner up and over in
line with the long edge to make a
tight horizontal fold. Make a third
fold diagonally to the left, following
the shape of the salmon and folding
across from bottom right to top left.
4 Continue in this way, folding the
salmon up horizontally, then
diagonally, until you have a neat
triangular pastry-wrapped parcel.
Put on the lined tray. Repeat with
the remaining salmon, pea purée
and filo sheets (see Calum’s tips).
5 Heat the oven to 210°C/190°C fan/
gas 6½. Give the parcels a final
brush of melted butter. Put the tray
in the hot oven and bake the parcels
for 20 minutes or until the pastry
is crisp and golden. Serve with
roasted vine cherry tomatoes (see
Calum’s tips).
PER PARCEL 513kcals, 28.1g fat
(8.5g saturated), 33.3g protein,
29.4g carbs (2.3g sugars), 0.9g salt,
4.9g fibre
 make it special.

THE CONTRASTS ARE KEY

A quick dinner that’s a great way to get the
family involved in the pastry-folding process.
Inside the crisp, buttery pastry, the minted peas
marry brilliantly with the flavour of the salmon.
 STAR OF THE SEAS ON

AhhÉ
AUTUMN! Colourful, abundant, velvety and mild,
pumpkins are too good to let pass by.
Stuff them with zesty feta and lemon
as the main event or cast them as best
supporting actor in a silky risotto and
let these October jewels shine

RECIPES DARREN ROBERTSON

PHOTOGRAPHS BEN DEARNLEY
FOOD STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS
 make it special.

Season of mists and mellow

fruitfulness, close bosom-friend
of the maturing sun…
JOHN KEATS

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 59

Spice-roasted pumpkin soup
with macadamia nut dukkah
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME
45-50 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 10-15 MIN
Chill the soup and keep for 3-4 days
MAKE in an airtight container. Or freeze
AHEAD
in batches for up to 3 months.
Defrost in the fridge overnight and reheat
until piping hot. Store the dukkah in an
airtight container for up to 3 days.
• 1.2kg pumpkin, peeled and seeds
removed, cut into large wedges
• 5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• ¼ tsp chilli flakes, plus extra to serve
• ¼ tsp smoked paprika
• ½ tsp ground cumin
• ½ tsp ground coriander
• 1 garlic bulb, separated into unpeeled
cloves
• 2 onions, finely chopped
• 1.25 litres hot vegetable stock
• Finely grated zest and juice 1 lemon
60 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
• 2 tbsp currants
• Small handful each fresh flatleaf
parsley, mint and coriander leaves
• Labneh or Greek yogurt to serve
FOR THE DUKKAH
• 1 tsp fennel seeds
• 1 tsp sesame seeds
• 1 tsp cumin seeds
• 2 tbsp macadamias
• 2 tsp fresh thyme leaves
• 1 tsp salt flakes
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• A stick blender
1 For the dukkah, toast the seeds for
a few minutes in a dry frying pan. Cool,
then crush in a pestle and mortar (or in
a jug with the end of a rolling pin), and
transfer to a bowl. Toast the macadamias
in the same way, then cool and chop
before adding to the bowl of crushed
seeds along with the thyme leaves
and salt. Set aside (see Make Ahead).
2 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4.
Toss the pumpkin in a large roasting tray
with 3 tbsp of the oil, the spices and the
whole garlic cloves. Season, then roast for
45-50 minutes or until the pumpkin is
cooked and the garlic is soft. Squeeze the
garlic flesh out of the skins over the
pumpkin. Set aside.
3 Heat the remaining 2 tbsp oil in a large
saucepan set over a medium-high heat.
Add the onions and cook, stirring
occasionally, for 10-12 minutes or until the
onions have softened. Add the pumpkin
mixture and stock, then cover and cook,
stirring occasionally, for 15-20 minutes.
4 Remove from the heat and use the stick
blender to whizz until smooth. Season,
then stir in the lemon zest and juice. Divide
the soup among warmed serving bowls,
then scatter with extra chilli flakes,
currants, herbs and some dukkah. Add
a dollop of labneh or yogurt to serve.
PER SERVING (FOR 6) 180kcals, 12.2g fat
(1.9g saturated), 3.3g protein, 11.8g carbs
(9.5g sugars), 0.9g salt, 4.7g fibre →
 make it special.

GOLDEN BOWL
Pumpkin risotto
with corn and
ricotta

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 61
 HEARTY SUPPER
Stuffed baby
pumpkins with
preserved lemon

Orchards have shared their treasures,

the fields, their yellow grain
ANONYMOUS
 make it special.

SLICE OF HEAVEN
Maple and spice
pumpkin pie

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 63
 History in the
making
For almost 1,000 years,
Parmigiano Reggiano has been
one of Italy’s finest culinary
exports, so it’s no surprise its
story is as unique as its taste

F
ew things have stood the test
of time quite like Parmigiano
Reggiano. First produced
nine centuries ago, this world-
renowned cheese is as popular
today as it ever was. The secret to
its success? Cherished traditions,
natural ingredients and artisan
farmers with a genuine love for
the craft.
Right down to the use of local
cows’ milk, this inimitable PDO
(Protected Designation of Origin)
cheese is made solely in the
provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia,
Modena and Mantua to the right
of the river Po and Bologna to the
left of the river Reno in northern
Italy. Indeed, Parmigiano Reggiano
is produced with so much care,
that it’s practically an art form.
Left to mature for a minimum
of 12 months – the longest of all
PDO cheeses – it is inspected only
by the Consortium, a protective
body whose experts determine
if a wheel has made the grade.
When aged between 12 and 18
months, the cheese has a delicate
milky aroma that goes well with
sparkling white wines, while a
wheel that’s left to mature for 22
to 24 months has notes of fresh
fruit and nuts and works
wonderfully with medium-bodied
wines. Aged between 30 and 36
months, it has a rich flavour and
grainy texture that marries perfectly
with honey and fruit. For an intense
parmesan that boasts a varied
aromatic spectrum, a Parmigiano
Reggiano that’s been aged for
40 months or more is the ultimate
cheeseboard addition.
WHERE IT ALL BEGAN…
Monks first produced Parmigiano
Reggiano in the Middle Ages. Driven
by the quest to make a cheese that
lasted a long time, they allowed the
mass to dry and increased the wheel
size, enabling it to keep for longer
and travel well. It’s this durability
that remains one of parmesan’s
main selling points to this day.
The cheese even made its debut
in the literary world in 1344, when
Italian writer Giovanni Boccaccio
mentioned it in his novella, The
Decameron. Describing the
imaginary town of Bengodi, he
detailed a mountain of “grated
parmesan” on top of which
“macaroni and ravioli” were
rolled. Bellissima!

To find out more about Parmigiano Reggiano, visit parmigianoreggiano.com

@parmigianoreggianouk  @parmesanuk @ParmigianoReggianoUK

Pumpkin risotto with
corn and ricotta
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 45-50 MIN
Add a handful of frozen
FOOD
TEAM’S petit pois along with the
TIP
corn in step 4 for colour
and an extra portion of veg.
• 40g butter
• 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 1 litre vegetable stock
• 300ml milk
• 300g arborio rice
• 300g pumpkin, peeled and
seeds removed, cut into 1cm
chunks
• 125ml white wine
• 1 corn cob, kernels sliced off
(or use a small can of sweetcorn)
• 40g finely grated parmesan,
plus extra to serve (or vegetarian
alternative)
• Finely grated zest and juice
1 lemon
• 1 tbsp chopped fresh flatleaf
parsley leaves
• 100g ricotta
1 Heat the butter and oil in a large
heavy-based saucepan over a
medium-high heat. Add the onion
and cook, stirring, for 8-10 minutes
or until the onion has softened.
2 Pour the vegetable stock and milk
into a pan and gently heat until
steaming. Turn the heat down under
the pan and keep warm.
3 Stir the rice and pumpkin into the
onion and cook for 1-2 minutes or
until the rice is coated in the butter
mixture. Add the wine and cook,
stirring, for 1 minute or until
reduced by half.
4 Gradually add the stock/milk to
the saucepan, 1 ladleful at a time,
stirring between each addition,
and cook for 22-25 minutes or until
the rice is cooked but still has some
bite. Stir in the corn and cook for
3-4 minutes more or until tender
(it will need less time if you’re using
tinned sweetcorn). Add a splash
more freshly boiled water if the rice
needs it – it should feel unctuous
and yielding. Stir in the parmesan
and lemon zest, then season.
4 Divide the risotto among
4 warmed serving bowls, then
scatter with the parsley and spoon
over the ricotta. Add a squeeze of
lemon juice to each bowl and serve.
PER SERVING 318kcals, 22.8g fat
(11.5g saturated), 10.4g protein,
10.7g carbs (8.3g sugars), 0.5g salt,
2.6g fibre
Stuffed baby pumpkins
with preserved lemon
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
OVEN TIME 55-60 MIN, PLUS COOLING
make it special.
Allow the pumpkins and
MAKE filling to cool, then assemble
AHEAD
and chill, covered, up to a
day ahead. Reheat in a 180°C/160°C
fan/gas 4 oven for about 15 minutes
until piping hot.
• 4 mini pumpkins (we used gem
pumpkins), tops cut off and
reserved, seeds and stringy bits
removed and discarded
• 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 garlic cloves, crushed
• 2 tsp fennel seeds
• 40g pine nuts
• 2 tbsp pumpkin seeds
• 4 banana shallots, chopped
• 200-250g mixed leaves (we used
rainbow chard, spinach and kale),
stalks removed, roughly chopped
• Handful fresh mint and basil
leaves, roughly chopped, plus
extra leaves to serve
• 150g feta, crumbled
• Finely grated zest and juice
1 lemon
• 1 preserved lemon quarter, pith
removed, finely chopped
• ¼ tsp chilli flakes (optional)
1 Heat oven to 180°C/160°C fan/
gas 4. Put the pumpkins on a large
baking tray. Put 2 tbsp of the oil in
a small bowl with 2 crushed garlic
cloves and the fennel seeds.
Season, then whisk to combine.
2 Drizzle the oil mixture over the
inside and outside of the pumpkins,
then roast the pumpkin bases for
45-50 minutes or until they’re just
soft but still hold their shape. Add
the lids for the final 10 minutes.
3 Meanwhile, heat a large, deep
frying pan over a medium-high heat.
Add the remaining oil and crushed
garlic, along with the pine nuts →
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 65
make it special.
and pumpkin seeds, then cook,
stirring, for 1-2 minutes. Stir in the
shallots and cook for 2-3 minutes
more, then add the leaves and herbs
and cook for 3-4 minutes or until the
leaves are wilted. Remove from the
heat to cool slightly.
4 Stir in the feta, lemon zest and
juice, preserved lemon and chilli
flakes (if using). Season to taste.
5 Fill the baked pumpkins with
the leaves and herb mixture. Top with
the lids, then roast for 10 minutes
until warmed through. Scatter
extra herbs over the filling to serve.
PER SERVING 307kcals, 23.8g fat
(7g saturated), 11.5g protein,
9.4g carbs (6.4g sugars), 1.6g salt,
4.5g fibre
Maple and spice
pumpkin pie
SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
OVEN TIME 45-50 MIN, PLUS COOLING AND
CHILLING
You need to begin this
MAKE recipe at least 3 hours
AHEAD
ahead of time. The finished
pie will keep in a sealed container
for up to 3 days.
Wrap up the remaining
FOOD
TEAM’S pastry and freeze for up
TIP
to a month. Defrost in the
fridge before using. Any leftover
pumpkin purée can be added to the
risotto recipe above, stirred through
66 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
warm pasta or kept chilled for base and sides of the prepared tart
up to 4 days. tin before folding in the top edges
(it’s okay to patch the pastry as this
• About 1.2kg pumpkin, peeled and pie has an uneven, rustic effect).
seeds removed, cut to 2cm slices Prick the pastry base all over with
• 250g all-butter puff pastry (see tip) a fork, then chill for 30 minutes.
• Plain flour for dusting 3 Line the pastry case with baking
• 3 medium free-range eggs paper and baking beans/uncooked
• ¼ tsp each ground nutmeg, rice, then bake for 20 minutes.
ground cinnamon, ground ginger Remove the beans/rice and baking
and ground allspice paper, then return the tart to the
• 1½ tbsp maple syrup oven to bake for a further 15
• 125g dark muscovado sugar minutes or until the pastry is golden
• Single cream to serve and feels dry and sandy to the
touch. Set aside to cool. Reduce the
YOU’LL ALSO NEED… oven to 160°C/140°C fan/gas 3.
• Food processor or blender; 4 To make the filling, whisk together
22cm round loose-bottomed the pumpkin purée, eggs, spices
tart tin, base and sides greased; and maple syrup in a bowl until
compostable baking paper; smooth. Crumble over the sugar
ceramic baking beans or and mix again until smooth. Pour
uncooked rice the pumpkin mixture into the tart
shell, then bake for 45 minutes or
1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ until the filling is just set but still
gas 6. Put the pumpkin slices on has a slight wobble when you gently
a large baking tray and roast for move the tin. Put the tart on a wire
45-50 minutes or until tender and rack and leave to cool completely,
lightly caramelised. Remove from then chill for 2 hours or until cold
the oven cool completely. Transfer and set. Serve with cream.
to a food processor or blender and PER SERVING 307kcals, 23.8g fat
whizz until smooth (you will need (7g saturated), 11.5g protein,
500g puréed pumpkin – see tip). 9.4g carbs (6.4g sugars), 1.6g salt,
2 Meanwhile, roll out the pastry on 4.5g fibre
a lightly floured surface to a rough For more ways to use ground
28cm circle, then press onto the allspice, see Loose Ends
The fall of an acorn on the ground,
the pattering of nuts on the hazel
branches as they fall from ripeness
JOHN CLARE

Ciao bella
Say hello to the inimitable taste of Italy with
this tempting steak recipe from Napolina
W
hether it’s an occasion dinner
for the family or a romantic
meal for two, nothing says
special like a succulent steak. And why
not make it extra special by giving it an
inspired Italian twist?
After all, at its heart, Italian cooking
is all about simple recipes, quality
ingredients and, of course, big flavours.
No one understands that better than
For more Italian recipes and cooking inspiration, visit napolina.com or follow @napolina on Instagram
Napolina. That’s why it champions
only the finest ingredients – whether
it’s a drizzle of wonderfully rich olive
oil or sweet, vine-ripened tomatoes
plucked straight from sun-kissed Puglia.
So go on, breathe fresh life into a
classic steak with this simple and tasty
recipe. Served with vibrant roast
vegetables and quinoa, it’s the ultimate
Italian celebration meal.
Rosemary steak and quinoa
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN,
OVEN TIME 30 MIN, PLUS MARINATING
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed
• 4 fresh rosemary sprigs, leaves
picked and finely chopped
• 2 tbsp Napolina Olive Oil
• 4 x 200g sirloin or ribeye steaks
FOR THE QUINOA
• 2 red onions, cut into wedges
• 1 leek, sliced diagonally
• 1 butternut squash, peeled and cubed
• 1 red pepper, cut into chunks
• 5 tbsp Napolina Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• 3 tbsp Napolina Balsamic Vinegar
• 1 garlic clove, crushed
• Small bunch fresh parsley,
roughly chopped
• 3 x 150g tins Napolina Drained Quinoa
1 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/
gas 7. In a large bowl, mix the garlic,
rosemary and Napolina Olive Oil, then
season with 2 tbsp of salt and ground
black pepper. Add the steaks, coating
them well in the marinade. Cover with
cling film and chill for 1 hour.
2 Arrange the onions, leek, squash
and pepper on a large flat roasting
tray. Drizzle over 2 tbsp of the Napolina
Extra Virgin Olive Oil and all the
Napolina Balsamic Vinegar, then add
the garlic and some salt and black
pepper. Toss everything well, then
ensure the veg is spaced out evenly.
3 Roast the veg for 30 minutes, turning
halfway through. Meanwhile, whisk the
remaining olive oil, lemon zest and
juice, basil and parsley together to
make a dressing, then, in a large
bowl, toss it through the quinoa.
4 When the veg has 10 minutes’ cooking
time left, heat a griddle pan until
smoking and reserve the marinade.
Cook the steaks for 2½ minutes on
each side for medium-rare – brushing
any leftover marinade over the meat as
it cooks. Leave the steaks to rest on a
chopping board before slicing.
5 Once the veg is roasted, mix it into
the quinoa. Divide between 4 plates
and sit the sliced steak on top of each.
Serve immediately.
 MENU OF THE MONTH

How Mary Berry

does a Sunday roast
Ready for a menu that finishes the week
in style? These three enticing courses from
the queen of crowdpleasing family cooking
feature a make-ahead starter, a succulent,
zingy roast chicken and a pudding that’s
a reminder of childhood not forgetting
the crispiest, fluffiest roasties. Thank you,
Mary, for making Sundays even better
PHOTOGRAPHS LAURA EDWARDS
FOOD STYLING LISA HARRISON
STYLING TABITHA HAWKINS
 make it special.

“Just the thought of roast chicken brings a smile to my face. My family

loves it with all the trimmings in autumn and winter. Plain roast chicken
is completely delicious, but try the version here: mix some butter with
flavourings such as ginger, tarragon and lemon zest, spread it under the
skin of the breast, then pop the chicken in the oven and wait for a feast.”

GOLDEN DELICIOUS
Roast chicken with tarragon
butter & melting onions

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 69
 THE VERY WORDS ‘COMFORT FOOD’ are like a big
warm hug for most of us. Cooking a superb meal is a way of
expressing love and giving comfort and pleasure to family and
friends. Comfort food should be easy to make, and I like dishes
that can be put together reasonably quickly without stress or too
many ingredients. And you don’t have to be a three-star chef.
Particularly when I’m expecting the family around, I like to
make life easier by getting as much done as I can ahead of time.
That way I can concentrate on people rather than getting stuck in
the kitchen. As always, I’ve kept the recipes as clear and concise as
possible, with glorious photographs to inspire you. I hope you get
as much pleasure from cooking and serving these dishes as I do.
MARY BERRY
 make it special.

GUARANTEED
TO IMPRESS
Double-baked
mushroom
soufflés

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 71

Double-baked mushroom
soufflés
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
OVEN TIME ABOUT 27 MIN
Soufflés can be made up to
MAKE 8 hours ahead and reheated
AHEAD
with the sauce in step 8.
For vegetarians, use
FOOD
TEAM’S emmental and a vegetarian
TIP
parmesan substitute.
• 75g butter, plus extra to grease
• 200g chestnut mushrooms,
finely chopped
• 50g plain flour
• 300ml whole milk, hot
• 3 medium free-range eggs,
separated
• 50g gruyère, grated (see tip)
• 50g parmesan, grated
FOR THE SAUCE
• 300ml double cream
• 50g baby leaf spinach, chopped
• 2 tsp dijon mustard
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 6 x 100ml ramekins; kitchen
paper; large roasting tin
1 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/
gas 7 and butter the ramekins
generously. Lay a piece of kitchen
paper in the roasting tin – it stops
the ramekins sliding around.
2 Melt 25g butter in a large, non-
stick frying pan. Add the mushrooms
and fry them over a high heat for a
few minutes. Cover the pan with a lid,
lower the heat and cook for 4 minutes
more, then remove the lid and fry
over a high heat to evaporate any
liquid. Remove the mushrooms with
a slotted spoon and set aside.
3 To make the soufflé base, melt the
remaining butter in a saucepan.
Whisk in the flour to make a roux
(paste) and cook for 1 minute.
72 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
Gradually add the hot milk, whisking
over a high heat until you have
a smooth, thickened sauce.
4 Remove the pan from the heat and
beat in the egg yolks, one at a time,
until the sauce is smooth. Add the
mushrooms and cheese, season
with salt and freshly ground black
pepper, then set aside to cool a little.
5 Whisk the egg whites until soft
peaks form. Stir about 1 tbsp egg
whites into the mushroom mixture,
then gently fold in the rest with a
large metal spoon, keeping it all
light and airy (don’t overmix).
6 Divide the soufflé mixture evenly
among the ramekins, then sit them
on the paper in the roasting tin.
Pour enough boiling water into the
tin to come halfway up the sides of
the ramekins. Bake the soufflés for
15 minutes until risen and lightly
golden. Remove from the oven and
set aside to cool (see Make Ahead).
7 To make the sauce, pour the cream
into a fairly large jug and add the
spinach and mustard. Season with
salt and pepper and stir to combine.
8 To serve, heat the oven to 220°C/
200°C fan/gas 7. Run a knife around
the edge of each ramekin and take
out the soufflés. Sit them, browned
side up, in an ovenproof dish, then
spoon the sauce around. Reheat for
about 12 minutes until piping hot.
PER SOUFFLÉ 520kcals, 47.3g fat
(28.5g saturated), 13.5g protein,
9.8g carbs (3.4g sugars),0.8g salt,
0.7g fibre
Roast chicken with
tarragon butter &
melting onions
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN
TIME ABOUT 1½ HOURS, PLUS RESTING
• 50g butter, softened
• 1 garlic clove, crushed
• 2cm fresh ginger, finely grated
• 1 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon
• Grated zest ½ lemon
• 1.8-2kg free-range chicken
• 2 large onions, very thickly sliced
• Olive oil to drizzle
FOR THE GRAVY
• 50g flour
• 100ml white wine
• 500ml chicken stock
• Worcestershire sauce to taste
• 1 tbsp redcurrant jelly
• Gravy browning (optional)
• 1 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• Medium roasting tin
1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/
gas 6. Measure the butter, garlic,
ginger, tarragon and lemon zest into
a small bowl, season with salt and
black pepper and mix well. Set the
chicken on a board. Loosen the skin
over the breast and pull it up to
make a pocket (work your hand in
from the neck end, but be careful
not to break the skin). Push the
butter mixture under the skin and
use your hand to spread it evenly
over the breast. Push the skin back
down. Put any tarragon stalks into
the cavity of the chicken.
2 Transfer the chicken to a medium
roasting tin and scatter the onions
around it. Drizzle a little oil over the
skin and legs, rub it in, then season
the chicken with salt and pepper.
Roast in the oven for about 1½ hours.
3 To test if the chicken is cooked,
insert a small, sharp knife or a
skewer into the thickest part of the
thigh; if the juices run clear, it’s
done. Transfer the chicken to a
board, cover with foil and leave
to rest. Spoon the onions into
a warmed serving bowl.
4 For the gravy, put the roasting tin
with the cooking juices over a
medium heat. Sprinkle over the
flour and whisk until smooth. Add
the wine, stock, Worcestershire
sauce, redcurrant jelly and gravy
browning, if using. Whisk over
the heat for 5 minutes until well
combined and thickened. Check the
seasoning, pour the gravy through
 make it special.

a sieve into a warmed jug and stir

in the chopped tarragon. Carve
the chicken and serve with the
meltingly soft onions, gravy, hot
roast potatoes (see below) and
some buttered, steamed greens.
PER SERVING 438kcals, 20.7g fat
(7.5g saturated), 45.3g protein,
13.6g carbs (5.7g sugars), 0.8g salt,
1.9g fibre

Mary’s best roasties

SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN,
OVEN TIME 45-55 MIN

Roast the potatoes up to

MAKE 12 hours ahead of time.
AHEAD
To serve, reheat in a 220°C/
200°C fan/gas 7 oven for 15-20
minutes – no need to add extra fat.
If you’re cooking these with
FOOD
TEAM’S the chicken, they’ll be fine
TIP
cooked in the same oven.

• 1kg potatoes, such as maris

piper or king edward, peeled and
cut into medium-size chunks
• 50g semolina
• 3 tbsp goose fat (or use more
sunflower oil)
• 3 tbsp sunflower oil

1 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/

gas 7. Put the potato chunks in a
pan of cold salted water. Bring the
pan to the boil and cook the
potatoes for about 5 minutes until
they’re starting to soften around
the edges. Drain in a colander until
completely dry, tip back into the
pan and shake to roughen up the
edges. Sprinkle in the semolina
and shake again until coated.
2 Add the goose fat and oil to a
roasting tin and heat for 5 minutes
in the oven until smoking. Carefully
add the potatoes and turn in the fat
until coated. Return to the oven
and roast for about 45-55 minutes
until the potatoes are golden
brown and crisp, turning them
halfway through the cooking time.
Serve piping hot (see Make Ahead).
PER SERVING 277kcals, 12.1g fat
(2.6g saturated), 4.2g protein,
37.3g carbs (1.5g sugars), trace salt,
3.6g fibre →
make it special.
Chocolate steamed
pudding with chocolate
sauce
SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN,
SIMMERING TIME 1½-1¾ HOURS
The pudding can be made
MAKE a few hours ahead and left
AHEAD
in hot water in the basin.
Make the sauce up to a day ahead,
cover and chill. Reheat to serve.
• 125g baking spread or softened
butter, plus extra to grease
• 125g caster sugar
• 2 large free-range eggs
• 100g self-raising flour
• 25g cocoa powder, sifted
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
Recipes taken
from Simple FOR THE SAUCE
Comforts by
Mary Berry • 150ml whole milk
(BBC Books £26). • 150ml double cream
74 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
• 300g Bournville chocolate,
broken into pieces
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• Electric hand mixer; 1.1 litre
pudding basin, greased and base
lined with compostable baking
paper; kitchen foil; string;
heatproof plate or trivet
1 Put all the pudding ingredients into
a bowl. Beat with a hand-held
electric whisk until well blended,
light and fluffy. Spoon the mixture
into the lined basin and level the top.
2 Cut a square of foil about 4cm
bigger on each side than the top
of the basin. Grease the underside
and make a pleat in the middle of
the square. Put the foil on top of the
basin, press around the edges, then
tie with string to seal.
3 Put the small plate or trivet in a
deep pan. Set the basin on top and
pour in enough boiling water to come
halfway up the side. Cover with a lid.
Bring the water back to the boil, then
reduce the heat and simmer very
gently for 1½-1¾ hours until the top
of the sponge is firm to the touch.
4 For the sauce, heat the milk and
cream until just boiling, then add
the chocolate and vanilla. Remove
from the heat and stir until smooth.
5 Carefully remove the basin from
the pan and take off the foil (see
Make Ahead). Loosen the edges with
a knife, then invert onto a plate and
remove the bowl and any paper. Top
the pudding with warm sauce and
serve the rest alongside in a jug.
PER SERVING (FOR 8) 541kcals,
34.6g fat (16.8g saturated), 6.9g
protein, 49.3g carbs (39.2g sugars),
0.4g salt, 2.3g fibre
 FLUFFY, LIGHT
& FULL OF
delight
Feeling fruity? Go decadent and delicate with
a Chocolate, Blackberry & Caramel Pavlova
they’ll be head over heels for.

Find recipes that are a joy to bake

and share at Oetker.co.uk
 Discover...
22 REASONS TO DIVE INTO AUTUMN
Visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk/autumn
for new-season recipe inspiration
 events.

Delia’s food and wine

WORKSHOPS AUTUMN 2020
WED 21 OCTOBER
Easy on the day:
cooking ahead
WED 25 NOVEMBER

J
oin Delia Smith, Alex Mackay and
other food and wine experts for all-day
workshops full of inspiration and
expertise, great food and wine – and lots of fun.
What are they? Food demos, tutored wine
tastings, cocktail demonstrations, Q&A
sessions… Plus a three-course lunch at Delia’s
Top of the Terrace Restaurant, Norwich.
Who goes? Anyone of any age who loves food
★ BOOK NOW ★ Tickets for the food and wine workshops and rooms
at the hotel are limited and available on a first-come, first-served basis:
please book early to avoid disappointment.
l TIME 10.30am to 5pm, including lunch
l PRICE £120 per workshop, all inclusive
DELIA PORTRAIT: TREVOR LEIGHTON
and wine and wants to learn more.
Who’s there? Each day is hosted by Alex
Mackay, formerly director of Raymond
Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons
Cookery School and Le Baou d’Infer
in Provence. There will be a tutored
wine tasting by Peter Graham Wines
of Norfolk and Delia will be there, too,
for photos and book signings.
Traditional and contemporary
Christmas cooking
YOUR SAFETY ASSURANCE
Delia’s Canary Catering will
take every precaution to ensure
these events are COVID-19
secure and compliant with
government guidance. If your
event is cancelled due to the
pandemic, Delia’s Canary
Catering will contact you to
re-arrange your booking or
offer a full refund.
MAKE A NIGHT OF IT

l VENUE The Top of the Terrace Restaurant, Norwich City Football Club, Norwich
Turn your workshop into a
mini-break with an overnight stay

TO BOOK YOUR TICKETS OR AN OVERNIGHT PACKAGE at the onsite Holiday Inn Norwich
City. We’ve arranged a special

PHONE 01603 218704

Lines are open 9am-5pm Mon to Fri. For more information, visit deliascanarycatering.com
rate of £115 for delicious. readers,
based on two sharing a twin
room with breakfast.

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 77
 FROM PANAMA
TO THE PENNINES
Coffee roasters Dark Woods may travel the globe to source beans but, as Patrick
McGuigan discovers, the other half of the artistry happens closer to home

for Best Northern Product. It’s

created in partnership with the
La Huella farmers’ collective in
Panama – headed up by Pedro
Moss, who hand-selects and mills
micro-lots of beans for Dark Woods.
“These small, unique batches are
sourced from different producers
under the La Huella umbrella.
Every farmer works with the
distinctive micro-climates, soils,
altitudes, Arabica varieties and
process styles found in and around
the town of Boquete,” explains
Blackburn. The batches used to
make the Café de Panama Natural
coffee are primarily selected from a
farm called Finca Pandura, and the
beans are dried within their
cherries on raised beds in the sun.
“This form of ‘natural’ processing
lends the beans an extra-sweet

T
he coffee beans roasted by
Dark Woods come from
exotic locations such as
Ethiopia, Costa Rica and Brazil, but
the company’s headquarters couldn’t
be more British. Headquartered in
an old textile mill beside a canal
and the River Colne, Dark Woods
roasts its beans surrounded
by the moorland,
WORKING dry-stone walls and
TOGETHER
and flavours of our coffees,” says
roaster Damian Blackburn, who
co-founded the business in 2013
with two coffee-industry friends,
Paul Meikle-Janney and Ian Agnew.
“You need to be in the zone when
you’re roasting to be able to hear,
see and smell the beans, so it’s good
to work in a peaceful space.”
The company sources speciality
coffee varieties from skilled farmers,
fruitiness, which is combined with
a rich body and chocolatey flavour
once they are carefully roasted,”
says Blackburn.
Unlocking the natural sweetness,
acidity and complex aromas is a
delicate job, however, and only 5kg
of beans are roasted at a time. “We
leave the roast a little lighter so the
inherent fruitiness shines through
in the cup,” he says.
PHOTOGRAPHS: RICHARD FAULKS

the ancient woods then roasts them in a vintage 1950s The final flavour is remarkable,
delicious. supports of the Pennines. German drum roaster to bring out taking in berry and milk chocolate
The Great Taste Awards. “Working in their distinctive flavours. notes with a clean, sweet, cranberry
To discover more about them, a dramatic, There is plenty of distinction in finish – a taste of Panama with a
what they’re about and how windswept La Huella Café de Panama, for hint of the Pennines.
they’re judged, visit valley helps example, last year’s winner of the WHERE TO BUY
deliciousmagazine.co.uk inspire the mood Great Taste Award’s Golden Fork Visit darkwoodscoffee.co.uk
 meet the producer.

HOW TO ENJOY IT
Pain au chocolat is
a perfect match for
Café de Panama,
complementing
the milk chocolate
notes in the coffee.
For something
completely different,
try accompanying
it with thin slices
of sweet and
spicy salami.

WELCOME TO THE
DARK SIDE
Paul, Damian
and Ian (opposite,
from left to right)
lightly roast
small batches of
speciality beans in
a vintage machine
to give Dark Woods’
Panama La Huella
Café de Panama
its distinctive taste

A fine match
Looking for an afternoon
indulgence or after-dinner
treat to serve alongside
your fine cup of coffee?
Try one of these recipes,
available online at Chocolate and Pecan and cinnamon Tiffin truffles
marzipan croissants streusel coffee cake
deliciousmagazine.co.uk

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 79
 MOVIE NIGHT
film + meal + wine
Is the way to a man’s heart really through his stomach? Stream a poignantly funny movie that
plays with that hoary old notion while enjoying a meaty biryani and a spicy bottle of red
THE LUNCHBOX (2013)
WHAT’S IT ABOUT?
When neglected young
Mumbai housewife
THE MOVIE Ila (Nimrat Kaur)
discovers the lovingly prepared
lunches she sends to her
husband’s workplace are going
astray, she starts an illicit
correspondence with the grateful
accidental recipient, Saajan (Irrfan
Khan), a widower preparing to
retire from his dull accounting job.
The notes they stash in the
tiffins (lunchboxes) lengthen as
their epistolatory relationship
grows – Ila confides her suspicions
about her husband’s affair, while
the grumpy-yet-charismatic Saajan
admits his frustrations and loneliness.
Meanwhile, Saajan is having to train
his ingratiatingly keen young colleague,
Shaikh, to take his place. As Saajan learns
more about Shaikh’s difficult background,
he develops a grudging respect for him.
Seeing Shaikh happy with his wife,
whom he married against her parents’
wishes, Saajan fantasises about running
away with Ila – and it turns out she’s
thinking the same thing. But are they
both dreaming (after all, they’ve never
even seen each other), or could this odd
couple have a future?
80 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
WHY THIS MOVIE?
It’s about making food as a way of showing
affection – something all cooks can relate
to. Ila cooks for her husband, trying to win
back his love. Shaikh cooks for his beloved
wife. When he realises Saajan spends each
evening watching TV alone, he persuades
him to come to his house for lamb pasanda.
The Lunchbox is also a film about
appetites, literal and metaphorical. As the
rut-stuck Saajan’s appetite is pricked by
the delightful new lunches, his appetite
for life is reawakened too, further inspired
by Shaikh’s puppyish lust for life.
You’ll gain a fascinating insight into
Mumbai life, including the dabbawalas,
an army of 5,000 Gandhi-capped workers
who deliver tiffin boxes to 200,000
workers each day, then pick them
up, clean them and return them.
WORDS: LES DUNN. BIRYANI RECIPE: MATT MORAN. PHOTOGRAPH: NIGEL LOUGH. FOOD STYLING: KIRSTEN JENKINS. FILM STILL: ALAMY
Refreshingly free of clichés,
this detailed, intimate story is
underscored by naturalistic,
intelligent performances, keeping
you quietly enthralled right to its
ambiguous end. It’s one of those
worth watching again and again.
TRIVIA TO MUNCH ON
l Sadly the brilliant Irrfan Khan
died of a tumour in April this
year, aged just 53. He was only 46
when he made The Lunchbox – just
seven years older than Nawazuddin
Siddiqui, who played Shaikh.
l The 130-year-old dabbawala system was
studied by Harvard Business School and is
certified ‘Six Sigma’, with the possibility of
a mistake in just one in 8 million deliveries.
THE QUOTE TO QUOTE
SHAIKH (after tasting Ila’s food):
You need magic in the hands. Anyone
can make food, but you need magic.
Rent/buy it on Google Play and YouTube.
Turn over for our meal suggestion →
 make it special.

“ONE BITE OF THAT

AND HE’LL BUILD YOU
A TAJ MAHAL!”
Lamb meatball biryani
make it special.
WHY THIS MEAL?
Obviously we had to choose something Indian,
though we’ve gone meaty, whereas the delights
we see Ila preparing in the movie – stir-fried
aubergine, paneer kofta, fragrant dhals – are
THE MEAL vegetarian. Watching Saajan reverently take
them out of their individual metal tiffins like
presents, furtively opening the hidden letter, is
one of the film’s many small delights. May you
feel the same excitement with this biryani on your lap.
Ila’s creations are helped along by Auntie Deshpande, her unseen
relative in the flat upstairs who, smelling the food wafting up, hollers
out her blunt critical appraisals and amusing cookery advice,
lowering down missing ingredients in a basket. Don’t have a helpful
auntie upstairs? You’ll just have to go to the supermarket.
To finish, our kulfi-ish ice cream sundae might just convince you
you’re in Mumbai rather than your living room.
Lamb meatball biryani • 2 tbsp garam masala
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, OVEN • 250g basmati rice
TIME 20 MIN, PLUS CHILLING AND SOAKING • 1 tsp black peppercorns
• 3 green cardamom pods
Shape the meatballs, then • 4 tbsp ghee (clarified butter,
MAKE cover and chill overnight. widely available – or use butter or
AHEAD
Continue from step 3. sunflower oil), plus extra for
shallow-frying
• 500g British lamb mince • 1 cinnamon stick
• 2 onions, 1 finely chopped, 1 thinly • 4 cloves
sliced • 250g greek yogurt
• 1 medium free-range egg • 8 garlic cloves, crushed
• 3 long green chillies, seeds • 55g raisins
removed (2 finely chopped, 1 • Toasted cashews and lime
thinly sliced to serve) wedges to serve
• ½ bunch fresh coriander, leaves
picked and chopped, plus extra YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
sprigs to serve • Heavy-based casserole with
• 100g fresh ginger, finely grated a tight-fitting lid; baking tray,
• 1 tbsp ground turmeric greased and lined with
compostable baking paper; foil
USEFUL TO HAVE…
• Pestle and mortar
1 Combine the mince, chopped onion,
egg, chopped chillies, coriander, half
THE WINE the grated ginger, half the ground
turmeric, half the garam masala
Extra Special Carmenère, and a pinch of salt. Mix everything
Colchagua Valley, Chile 13.5%
(Asda, £6.50) together with your hands.
The best wine by far for spiced 2 Roll the mixture into even-sized
lamb dishes is a Chilean red balls to make 16 meatballs, put on
made from the savoury and a tray or large plate, then cover and
peppery, yet cassis-rich
carmenère grape. Here’s a chill until needed (see Make Ahead).
great-value version. Susy Atkins 3 Meanwhile, put the rice in a clean
bowl and cover with water. Soak for
82 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
20 minutes, then drain and set aside.
4 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/
gas 6. Using a pestle and mortar
(or a jug and the end of a wooden
spoon), coarsely crush the
peppercorns and cardamom pods.
5 Heat the ghee in the casserole
over a medium heat. Add the
crushed spices, cinnamon, cloves
and sliced onion. Cook, stirring
occasionally, for 10 minutes or until
the onion starts to brown. Remove
from the heat and stir in the yogurt,
garlic and the remaining grated
ginger, turmeric and garam masala.
Return to the heat and cook, stirring,
for 2 minutes. Stir in the soaked rice
and 700ml water, then bring to a
simmer. Cover the pan, then bake in
the oven for 20 minutes or until the
liquid has been absorbed.
6 Meanwhile, heat the extra ghee in
a large non-stick pan over a high
heat. Add the meatballs, then fry in
batches, turning occasionally, for
4-5 minutes or until browned all
over. Put on the prepared baking
tray, cover with foil, then bake at the
same time as the rice for 20 minutes
or until just cooked through.
7 Stir the raisins into the rice, then
top with the meatballs, re-cover and
let stand for 10 minutes to steam.
Transfer the biryani to a serving
platter, then scatter over the nuts,
sliced chilli and coriander. Serve
with lime wedges for squeezing.
PER SERVING 824kcals, 41g fat
(21.3g saturated), 38.2g protein,
73.7g carbs (16.8g sugars), 0.4g salt,
3.7g fibre
Kulfi-inspired
ice cream sundae
Bruise 4 cardamom pods with the
side of a knife, then put in a small
pan with 3 tbsp each caster sugar
and water. Gently heat to dissolve
the sugar, then increase the heat to
make a syrup. Set aside to cool, then
add a splash of rosewater to taste.
Once cool, spoon over pistachio ice
cream and a sprinkling of dried rose
petals or chopped pistachios.
For more ways to use ghee, see
Loose Ends (p46)
 Filippo Berio Pesto goes way beyond pasta.
Each one is a delicious addition to all kinds of lunchtime
dishes, from Italian flatbreads to rustic bruschetta.

Made in Liguria, birthplace of our founder, our range

of seven pesto sauces use only the finest ingredients.
Every one worthy of bearing Filippo Berio’s name.

For pesto beyond pasta, visit filippoberio.co.uk

Where quality
reigns supreme
Pride, passion and centuries of tradition go into
making much of Spain’s excellent food and drink
but especially its superior cheeses
S
pain’s culinary culture is
as rich and varied as the
country itself. From
wonderfully salty cured meats and
fruity olive oils to aromatic saffron
and refreshing cava, the country’s
producers have taken centuries-
old traditions and transformed
them into 21st century fine food
and wine products that you can
rely on for quality, traceability
and sustainability.
There is perhaps no better
example of this than Spain’s
outstanding cheeses. The country
has more than 100 types of
cheese in existence today – the
tremendous variety is partly due
to its geographical and climatic
diversity, but also its historical
To find out more about Spain’s quality food and wines, visit foodswinesfromspain.com
legacy and the many peoples and
cultures that have inhabited its
territories over the years.
Whether produced industrially
on a large scale or at a small dairy
specialising in authentic artisanal
cheese, Spanish cheeses are some
of the finest in the world. It comes
as no surprise then that many have
been granted PDO (Protected
Designation of Origin) status,
guaranteeing the authenticity of the
regional cheese-making techniques,
ingredients and traditions with
which they’ve been made.
Want to bring an authentic taste
of Spain to your table but not sure
where to start? Try these two
magnificent PDO cheeses (right)
by way of an introduction.
MANCHEGO PDO
Revered by cheese
lovers all over the
world, this pressed
cheese is made from Manchego
ewe’s milk and is ripened for a
minimum of 30 days. It has a
characteristic aroma and a slightly
sharp, intense flavour that becomes
somewhat piquant in well-ripened
cheeses, and the ewe’s milk gives it
a pleasant, albeit unusual aftertaste.
The texture is firm and compact and
the cheese’s rind is hard and yellow.
Manchego PDO is wonderfully
versatile and can be paired with fruit,
almonds, hazelnuts and walnuts,
crusty bread, sun-dried tomatoes
and olives. It even tastes great
simply drizzled with extra-virgin
olive oil. The cheese is well suited
to a red rioja like tempranillo, but it
also works exceptionally well with
MAIN IMAGE: ©ICEX/FERNANDO RAMAJO. MANGHEGO AND CABRALES IMAGES: ©ICEX/JUAN MANUEL SANZ
a sparkling cava or Spanish whites
such as a crisp verdejo or a fresh
and floral viura.
CABRALES PDO
A renowned
blue-vein cheese,
Cabrales PDO can
be made from whole
raw cow’s milk or from a mixture
of cow’s, ewe’s and goat’s milk and
is ripened for a minimum of two
months in natural caves. It has
a balanced flavour, which varies
depending on the type of milk used,
but it’s never salty or bitter. The
cheese has a pronounced, persistent
aftertaste, and the aroma is
penetrating and intense – especially
when goat’s milk is used. Its texture
is even throughout with a fine,
almost imperceptible graininess.
This unique blue cheese works
well in sauces, melted over roasted
meats, drizzled with honey or
enjoyed with fresh figs, toasted
bread or raisin bread. In terms of
wines, it pairs particularly well
with sweet Spanish sherry such
as pedro ximénez or an elegant
red rioja like a crianza.
 drinks.

NEW-SEASON SIPPING
Susy Atkins picks wines and a honeyed treat to match the harvest
mood of our October recipes. Plus: something to read with a glass to hand

FABULOUS FOR FISH NICE WITH SPICE PALLY WITH PUMPKIN

Bodega Norton Colección
Chardonnay 2019,
Mendoza, Argentina 13.5%
(£8.99, Waitrose)
A classic, creamy fish pie
(p53) calls for a bold, ripe
white. Although well
balanced and fresh with a
citrus zing, this chardonnay
fits the bill. Good white for
roast chicken, too.
Finest Côtes de Gascogne
2019, France 11.5%
(£6.50, Tesco)
A light, fresh white that’s
slightly floral with whistle-
clean lemon and green
apple flavours. Chill it for
the dan dan noodles (p40;
it’s suitable for vegans)
or John Whaite’s spicy
chicken wings (p95).
Taste the Difference
Vouvray 2018, Loire, France
12.5% (£8, Sainsbury’s)
Here’s a useful off-dry
white that can take on
those savoury, soft
pumpkin dishes that
never suit a totally crisp
style (p58). Expect the
autumnal flavour of juicy
baked apples here.

BUT IF YOU PREFER RED
WITH YOUR SQUASH...
The Best Fleurie 2018,
Beaujolais, France 13%
(£9.25, Morrisons)
A soft, not heavy red
is needed for the texture
of savoury squash or
pumpkin dishes – here’s
a fine beaujolais that
tastes of red berries but
finishes smooth and dry.
SUPER FOR SUNDAY LUNCH
Marcarini Ciabot
Camerano Barbera d’Alba
2018, Piedmont, Italy
13.5% (£17.95, bbr.com)
A splendid Italian red fit
for Mary Berry’s feast
(p68). Tasting of red
cherries and plum with
a sprinkle of almonds,
it matches her soufflés
and the roast chicken.
PERFECT FOR PUD
Lyme Bay Traditional
Mead, Devon, England
14.5% (£9.75 for 75cl,
lymebaywinery.co.uk)
Rich and luscious, this
honey wine is autumn in a
glass, smashing it with the
pear and maple tart (p88),
sweet pumpkin dishes
(p58) and, of course, our
honeycomb crunch (p6).

Best of British
Each time a new book from popular expert Oz Clarke comes
along it provides a great source of wine inspiration (wine-
spiration?). This is certainly the case with his latest, English
Wine (Pavilion £16.99). England now has over 160 wineries
and 750 commercial vineyards, creating around 10 million
bottles a day; Oz calls it ‘the newest New World wine
country’. Quality is certainly high, especially among the
sparklers and still whites, and Oz writes about it all with
his trademark enthusiasm and gusto.
There’s a brief history and guide to styles, but the main
part is a tour of the country’s regions and their top wineries,
with the author’s recommended best buys. The writing
sparkles and delights, much like a glass of south coast fizz.

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 85
 IF YOU MAKE
ONE PUDDINGÉ
Tart of the month
Seasonal pears are paired with a calvados custard and darkly sweet maple syrup in
this beautiful cover recipe from top Australian chef Emma McCaskill. Heavenly
Pear, maple and
calvados custard tart
COVER SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
RECIPE OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 5-12 MIN, PLUS CHILLING
AND COOLING
Begin the recipe at least
MAKE 4 hours before serving so
AHEAD
the tart can chill. The pastry
dough will keep, wrapped, for 1-2
days in the fridge or you can make
the tart shell up to the end of step 2
up to a day before serving. The
finished tart will keep chilled in an
airtight container for up to 2 days.
For a booze-free tart, omit
FOOD
TEAM’S the alcohol and use 5 tbsp
TIPS
water. Lightly whisk the
unused egg whites with a pinch of
salt, then freeze to use later.
FOR THE BROWN SUGAR PASTRY
• 150g plain wholemeal flour, plus
extra for dusting
• 100g chilled unsalted butter,
cubed
• 55g light soft brown sugar
• 2 medium free-range egg yolks
(see tip)
FOR THE CALVADOS CUSTARD FILLING
• 2 medium free-range eggs
• 110g caster sugar
NEXT • 30g light soft brown sugar
MONTH
• 30g plain flour
Sugar and spice
and all things… • Finely grated zest and juice
Gingerbread ½ lemon
• 1 vanilla pod, split lengthways,
seeds scraped
• 125g soured cream, plus extra
to serve (optional)
• 4 tbsp calvados or brandy (see tips)
• 25g unsalted butter, melted and
cooled
• 1 firm pear, sliced 2mm thick (with
a mandoline ideally), pips removed
• 1 tbsp icing sugar
• 4 tbsp maple syrup
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 20-22cm loose-bottomed tart tin;
compostable baking paper;
ceramic baking beans or raw rice
USEFUL TO HAVE
• Mandoline; food processor
1 For the pastry, whizz the flour,
butter, sugar and a pinch of salt to
fine crumbs in a food processor. Add
the egg yolks, then pulse until the
mixture starts to clump together.
(Alternatively, put the flour, sugar
and salt in a bowl and rub in the
butter with your fingertips until
crumbs form. Add the yolks and
cut in with a butter knife until the
mixture begins to come together.)
Tip out the dough and shape into
a disc. Wrap tightly, then chill for
an hour to rest (see Make Ahead).
2 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/
gas 6. Roll out the pastry on a lightly
floured work surface to 3mm
thick, then use to line the tin, letting
it overhang the edge. Chill for
30 minutes, then use a sharp knife
to trim off the excess pastry. Line
the pastry with baking paper, then
fill with baking beans/rice. Bake for
15 minutes or until golden at the
edges. Remove the beans/rice and
paper, then bake for 10-12 minutes
more or until the pastry is golden
and feels dry and sandy to the touch.
Leave to cool. Turn the oven to 160°C/
140°C fan/gas 3 (see Make Ahead).
3 For the filling, whisk the eggs,
sugars, flour, lemon zest and juice
and vanilla seeds until smooth.
Whisk in the soured cream, alcohol,
1 tbsp cold water and the melted
butter (the custard will be loose).
Pour into the cooled pastry case,
then arrange the pear slices on top,
overlapping slightly. Dust with icing
sugar, then bake for 40-45 minutes
PHOTOGRAPHS: BEN DEARNLEY. FOOD STYLING: KIRSTEN JENKINS
or until just set with a slight wobble
in the centre. Leave to cool to room
temperature, then carefully remove
from the tin and chill until cold.
4 Put the maple syrup in a small
pan over a high heat and cook for
2 minutes or until thickened. Leave
to cool for 10 minutes, then drizzle
over the tart and serve sliced with
a dollop of soured cream, if you like.
PER SERVING 397kcals, 19.2g fat
(10.9g saturated), 6g protein,
48.9g carbs (33.3g sugars), 0.1g salt,
2.6g fibre
 make it special.

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 87
A HARVEST
far, far away
The threat posed by a recent oil spill has drawn
the world’s attention to Mauritius – the island
of beaches, palm trees and turquoise waters.
As the clean-up continues, the country’s vital
source of income – sugar – has never been more
important. John Whaite visited at harvest time to follow
the process from cane to soft-flowing bags of ‘special
sugar’ – and create recipes that are a taste of paradise
TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHS ROB STREETER
 make it special.

Where does your mind take you when

you think of Mauritius? I’ll bet doe-
eyed honeymooners spring to mind,
dripping in diamonds and designer
clothes. It’s hardly surprising – the
gleaming white beaches and crystal-
clear waters surrounding this pinprick
of an island in the Indian Ocean
beckon to lovers from all over the
globe. There are also, of course, roads
lined with mangroves and mango
trees, as well as palm trees waving to
greet you in the welcome breeze that
baffles the intense burn of the sun.
But just metres away from the
beaches a more common crystal is
cultivated: the island is awash with
sugar. Vast, sweeping fields of cane
dance in the wind, releasing the
haunting scent of sugar in its rawest
form. It’s like the sweet smell of
recently cut grass on a hot summer’s
day, with a hint of tobacco or yeast. It
smells natural
– like rainwater
“The smell on a cow’s
was yeasty – back or a ripe,
tangy cheese.
like Marmite By no means
stirred with would you
molasses” bottle it and
FERTILE BEAUTY spritz it on
The tropical climate your frock before heading out, but it
and volcanic soil that
give Mauritius its awakened my deep-rooted desires.
stunning landscape
are also optimal for CENTURIES OF HISTORY
growing sugar cane Sugar cane has been grown and turned
into the sweet stuff for almost 400 years
– it was introduced to Mauritius by the
Dutch in the 1600s. Importing sugar
cane from Java and a workforce of slaves
A BIT ABOUT JOHN
He won the Great from Mozambique and Madagascar, it
British Bake Off in was their intention to produce arak –
2012 (how can it be a potent rum-like spirit popular with
eight years ago?!)
and, since then, sailors. After the Dutch left in 1710,
has done a diploma pushed out by unbearable heat and
in patisserie at cyclones, the French took over,
London’s Le Cordon continuing to transport and exploit
Bleu cookery school
and written five slaves to produce sugar for their king.
cookery books. When Britain arrived to occupy the
In 2016, he opened island in 1810 (after the Slave Trade
a cookery school
in Lancashire on
Act of 1807 but before the 1833 Slavery
the family farm Abolition Act), there was a boom
where he grew up in the nation’s sugar industry. As
(johnwhaiteskitchen. navigation laws were repealed and
com). Follow
John on Instagram abolished, Mauritian sugar was able to
@john_whaite be sold in other countries, competing →
with sugar from the West Indies,
and around 400 Mauritian sugar
factories were in operation. Today,
most of their brick chimneys are
ghosts trapped in the middle of
fields, as only three sugar factories
remain on the island. I spent an
afternoon at one of them.
FROM HARVEST TO GRAIN
In the grounds of the factory, the
peculiar cane smell is yeastier –
like Marmite stirred with molasses.
After donning a factory uniform,
I was taken to the area where
freshly cut cane arrives – the scale
of the place was staggering. The
scent quickly grew familiar, while
the chugs and churns of cogs,
blades and other machinery muted
all conversation.
Truckloads of sugar cane were
pushed onto a conveyor belt, then
carried to a shredder to be crushed,
before being mixed with
water to extract the sweet “Palm trees wave to greet you
juice. Impurities were
removed by adding lime and and vast, sweeping fields of
heat, reducing the mixture to sugar cane dance in the wind”
a thick, amber syrup. Next,
this was crystallised by mixing it
with seed (tiny sugar crystals) and
cooling it – I learned the size of the
finished grains depends on how
long the syrup is left to cool and
crystallise, after which it makes its
way to giant centrifuges that spin
to extract the liquid, leaving the
much drier sugar behind.
After being blasted with 32°C
air the sugar became much softer
and free-flowing. That’s the process
in a nutshell, but it’s all operated
by blokes with computers behind
glass screens. Impersonal and
industrial. I was left wondering if
there was any personality left in
the sugar industry.
WHAT ABOUT THE FARMERS?
As a dairy farmer’s son, I was keen
to learn more about the people
who grow cane, so I headed to
TURN THE PAGE FOR JOHN’S RECIPES
90 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
meet Devesh Dukhira of the
Mauritius Sugar Syndicate (MSS),
a non-profit organisation that
markets all the sugar produced
in Mauritius and returns
a proportionate share of the
revenue to the producers.
Devesh told me the main
producers are the island’s three
remaining factories – it is, after all,
an industry that employs over
25,000 people in Mauritius – but
the remaining 18% are small
farmers who are cultivating cane
on around 10 hectares of land.
The primary purpose of the
MSS is to capture the best profits
for the producers, and by looking
at the global sugar market it
can maximise returns. This is
why Mauritian sugar is now
synonymous with ‘special sugar’,
which accounts for around 130,000
tonnes of the 325,000 or so the
country produces annually.
Special sugar is different to white
refined sugar. It’s muscovado –
light and brown – and molasses
sugars, which are minimally
processed and retain natural
nutrients and colours. It’s the
Billington’s sugar that, following
a taste test I took part in many
years ago, I chose to use at my
cookery school. The difference
is remarkable: regular sugar is
sweet but has no complexity,
whereas special sugar is treacly,
layered in flavour and softer in
texture. The two don’t compare.
THE INDEPENDENT PERSPECTIVE
Though I’d had quite the education
in sugar by this point – including a
little sweat-inducing cane-cutting
– I wanted to hear from an
independent farmer about their
own experience. The next day
I found myself in a small room
above a bank in Triolet with the
Century Cooperative Credit
Society. Few of them spoke
English, and my rusty French
didn’t really help as I tried to ask
them about their lives and how
the cooperative helps them.
Just as I was about to lose hope,
a man stood up to speak. In decent
English he told me the cooperative
had taught him everything he
needed to know about growing
sugar cane: planting, equipment,
health and safety, labour rights
and regulations. The man’s name
was Sunhil, and he seemed proud
to work for himself under the
guidance of the cooperative and
the protection of the MSS. There
was something different about
him, and it wasn’t just the fact
he spoke English. At 40, he was
one of the youngest in the
room, which made me
question whether the
ageing population of
farmers was being
renewed. The cooperative
informed me that, although there’s
been little interest from the younger
generations of farming families in
the past, this is changing (with the
cooperative’s help), and more young
people are drifting back into
agriculture. Perhaps that sweet
smell in the air is hope.
A CHANGE OF HEART
Before my trip to Mauritius, I saw
sugar as a basic ingredient – I’d
tear bags open, not caring if
a little spilled out. But then I met
the people who grow the grass,
the workers who transform it from
cane to crystal, and I even had a
go at bagging it up. Next time
I sweeten my tea or devour a wedge
of cake, I’ll think about the people
who laboured so hard to produce
it. Every soft-flowing grain is
valuable; every grain tells a story.
 make it special.

THE SMELL OF SWEET SUCCESS

After being harvested, sugar cane
fibres are ground to extract their
juice, which is heated to create
a syrup that is crystallised before
being dried; ‘special sugars’
retain the natural flavours and
colours of the cane syrup
THE RECIPES
These little sandwich cookies are the Mauritian version of the much-adored
jammy dodger. Crumbly-short biscuit encloses a sweet jam and is topped with an
even sweeter duvet of icing. Traditionally, the biscuit dough is made using just
butter and flour, but it’s a little difficult to work with – I’ve opted for an enriched
version using sugar and egg yolk to help bind everything together.
Rhubarb and ginger
napolitaines (Mauritian
sandwich biscuits)
MAKES ABOUT 16. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
OVEN TIME 8-12 MIN, PLUS CHILLING,
COOLING AND SETTING
Make the dough up to a day
MAKE ahead. The biscuits will
AHEAD
keep for up to 2 days.
Flatten the dough into a
FOOD
TEAM’S disc about 2cm thick before
TIPS
chilling – you won’t need
to roll it for as long. Make sure the
John’s trip inspired him to create these sweet
and savoury treats, exclusively for delicious.
1 To make the dough, put the flour,
sugar and salt in a mixing bowl
and toss. Rub in the butter until the
mix resembles fine breadcrumbs.
Add the egg yolk and cut in with a
dough scraper or butter knife until
dough stays cool – using short, sharp the mixture starts to clump
rolls will help prevent it breaking up. together, then use the heel of your
Lightly whisk the unused egg white hand and fingers to bring it together
with a pinch of salt, then freeze. into a smooth dough. Wrap, flatten
into a disc, then chill in the fridge
FOR THE DOUGH for at least 30 minutes (see tips).
• 175g plain flour, plus extra to dust 2 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/
• 40g light brown muscovado sugar, gas 6. On a well floured worktop,
sifted roll out the dough to about 5mm
• ½ tsp fine salt thick. Cut out with the cookie
• 130g unsalted butter, cubed and cutter, then re-roll any scraps
at room temperature and repeat. Put the discs on the
• 1 large free-range egg yolk baking sheets, spaced well apart.
(see tips) Bake for 8-12 minutes until lightly
golden around the edges. Leave
RECIPES: JOHN WHAITE. FOOD PHOTOGRAPHS: CLARE WINFIELD. FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE AND SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE
TO FINISH to cool on the sheets.
• 16 tsp (about 68g) 3 Take half the biscuits and turn
rhubarb and ginger jam them over. Add 1 tsp jam to each,
(we used Rosebud then top with the remaining
Preserves) biscuits. Set on a wire rack.
• 250g icing sugar 4 For the icing, mix the icing sugar
• Pink food colouring with water, 1 tbsp at a time, until
(optional) you have a thick but pourable icing.
If using food colouring, add just
YOU’LL ALSO NEED… enough for it to blush. Pour the icing
• 5.5cm round cookie over the biscuits, letting it drip
cutter; 2 baking down the sides so it covers the
sheets lined with biscuits (apart from the base, of
compostable course). Allow the icing to set
baking paper before devouring.
PER BISCUIT (FOR 16) 188kcals,
USEFUL TO HAVE… 7.2g fat (4.4g saturated), 1.3g
• Dough scraper protein, 29.3g carbs (20.8g sugars),
0.3g salt, 0.5g fibre
HOT ON THE SHELVES – AGAIN!
John used Billington’s caster sugar as
well as its (fairly traded) molasses sugar
and light brown muscovado sugar. The
‘special sugars’ haven’t been in the shops
for a while, as the production plants had
to close to ensure safe distancing
measures could be implemented, but you
can find them again now in all major supermarkets
including Tesco, Sainsbury’s, Morrisons and Waitrose.

Spiced molasses
chicken wings with
mango salad
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
OVEN TIME 50-55 MIN
Assemble the salad up to a
MAKE day ahead and chill, covered,
AHEAD
until ready to serve.
FOR THE SALAD
• 150g firm mango, peeled, stoned
and finely sliced
• 150g cucumber, finely sliced
• ½ small red onion, finely sliced
• 25g fresh ginger, grated
• 1 red chilli, very finely sliced
• 2 tsp golden caster sugar
• 1 tbsp cider vinegar
FOR THE CHICKEN
• 1kg free-range chicken wings
• Sunflower oil to drizzle
• 120g molasses sugar
• 1 tbsp cider vinegar
• 2 tbsp light soy sauce
• 30g fresh ginger, grated
• ½ tsp chilli flakes
1 For the salad, mix the mango,
cucumber, onion, ginger, chilli,
sugar, vinegar and a pinch of salt
in a large bowl. Cover with a plate,
then chill until ready to serve (see
Make Ahead).
2 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/
gas 4. Put the chicken wings on a
baking tray, drizzle with a little oil
and sprinkle with salt. Cook for
45 minutes until lightly golden.
3 Meanwhile, make the glaze: put
the molasses sugar, vinegar and soy
sauce in a small pan. Add the ginger,
chilli flakes and a small pinch of
make it special.
These sticky, spicy chicken wings
are joy-inducing – but make sure you
have plenty of napkins on hand to
mop up. The crisp, refreshing salad
is the perfect counterpart.
salt. Set over a high heat and stir
as the mixture comes to the boil.
As soon as it does, remove it from
the heat and pour into a bowl.
4 Once the chicken has roasted,
remove it from the oven and turn up
the heat to 240°C/220°C fan/gas 8.
Using tongs, dip hot wings in the
glaze one at a time, coating each as
liberally as possible, then setting it
back on the tray. Return the tray to
the oven to roast for 5-10 minutes
more until the wings are dark and
crispy on the outside. Keep any
leftover glaze for drizzling. Remove
the chicken from the oven and serve
it with the cool salad, drizzled with
extra glaze if you like.
PER SERVING 559kcals, 26.2g fat
(5.8g saturated), 38.7g protein,
40.9g carbs (39.5g sugars),
2.1g salt, 2.2g fibre →
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 93
Puits d’amour
(wells of love)
MAKES 12. HANDS-ON TIME 55 MIN,
OVEN TIME 25-30 MIN, PLUS CHILLING
Make the crème pâtissière
MAKE and the pastry up to
AHEAD
a day ahead, then assemble
to bake. Keep the baked tarts
somewhere cool in an airtight
container for up to 2 days.
Flatten the dough into a
FOOD
TEAM’S disc about 2cm thick before
TIP
chilling – you won’t need
to roll it for as long. Make sure the
dough stays cool – using short,
sharp rolls will help prevent it
from breaking up.
FOR THE CRÈME PÂTISSIÈRE
• 250ml whole milk
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 60g caster sugar
• 2 large free-range egg yolks
(save the whites for the meringue)
• 20g cornflour
FOR THE PASTRY
• 125g unsalted butter, at room
temperature
• 50g caster sugar
• 1 medium free-range egg
• 200g plain flour, plus extra for
dusting
• ½ tsp fine salt
FOR THE BANANAS
• 2 bananas
• 3 tbsp icing sugar
FOR THE MERINGUE
• 2 large free-range egg whites
(from the crème pâtissière above)
• 120g caster sugar
• 3 tbsp desiccated coconut
(optional)
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• Electric hand mixer; 12-hole
muffin tin; 8-9cm round
cookie cutter
USEFUL TO HAVE…
• Compostable baking paper;
dough scraper; piping bag
with a 20mm plain nozzle;
cook’s blowtorch
1 First, make the crème pâtissière:
put the milk and vanilla in a small
saucepan and set aside until
needed. Put the 60g sugar, egg
yolks and cornflour in a heatproof
mixing bowl and whisk vigorously
using a balloon whisk for
1-2 minutes until pale and fluffy.
Put the milk over a high heat and
allow it to come to the boil, then
pour it onto the eggs in a thin
stream while whisking constantly.
2 When the egg and milk mixtures
are well combined, pour them back
into the pan while off the heat, then
return to a medium-high heat and
whisk constantly and vigorously
as the mixture thickens. You must
ensure the whisk touches the bottom
of the pan at all times. Once the
mixture is very thick (this will take
2-3 minutes), remove the pan from
the heat and pour it onto a lipped
plate. Cover with damp compostable
baking paper, ensuring it’s touching
the surface of the custard to stop
a skin forming. Chill until cold
(see Make Ahead).
3 For the pastry, put the butter and
50g sugar in a mixing bowl and beat
together with an electric hand mixer
or a wooden spoon for a couple of
minutes until soft. You can simply
add the egg and whisk with the
mixer, but the mixture will probably
split at this point. While that’s okay,
I like to try to get it to emulsify, so
put the bowl over a pan of barely
simmering water as you whisk and
everything should come together to
form a smooth, thick emulsion.
(Don’t let the bowl linger over the
water, however, as the last thing you
want is to scramble the egg.)
4 Add the flour and salt, then cut
everything together using a dough
scraper or butter knife. As soon as
the mixture starts to clump, tip it
onto a piece of cling film, bring it
together into a smooth ball, then
shape into a disc. Wrap it up and
chill for at least 2 hours (see tip and
Make Ahead).
5 Heat the grill to high. Slice the
bananas into 5mm discs. Put them
on a baking sheet and dust liberally
with icing sugar. Toast the bananas
under the grill until darkly
caramelised – just the one side
is fine (see Make Ahead).
6 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/
gas 6. Dust the work surface
generously with flour, then roll out
to 3mm thick. Cut out 12 discs large
enough to line the holes of a 12-hole
muffin tin. Line each hole in the tin
with a pastry disc and put 3 slices of
banana in the bottom of each. Take
the crème pâtissière out of the
fridge, transfer it to a mixing bowl
and beat vigorously with a wooden
spoon until it’s much looser.
7 Divide the crème pâtissière
among the pastry cases and level
it off with a spoon as best you can.
Bake for 25-30 minutes until the
pastry is golden and the crème
pâtissière is swollen with a dark
patch on top. Remove from the oven
and allow to cool completely before
removing from the muffin tin.
8 For the meringue, put the egg
whites and sugar into a heatproof
bowl and set over a pan of barely
simmering water. Using an electric
hand mixer, whisk the sugar and
whites until you have a very thick,
smooth and glossy meringue – it’ll
take a good 5 minutes. Remove from
the heat and whisk for a minute
more to cool and reach stiff peaks
(when you lift the whisk out, the
peak won’t droop to one side).
9 When the tarts have cooled, top
them with the meringue. While a
rustic approach of simply dolloping
the meringue on top with a spoon is
delightful, I prefer a neater method,
so I use a piping bag and 20mm plain
nozzle to pipe little domes onto each
tart. Put the coconut into a shallow
bowl and delicately dip each
meringue-topped tart in the coconut,
covering the top entirely. Or, if you
don’t have any coconut, you could
brown the meringue with a cook’s
blowtorch (as in the picture, right)
or flash the tarts in a medium oven
for 5 minutes as you would with
a lemon meringue pie.
PER TART 317kcals, 13.9g fat
(8.5g saturated), 5.6g protein,
41.6g carbs (27g sugars), 0.3g salt,
1.6g fibre
 make it special.

This is my version of the classically

Mauritian puits d’amour, which translates as
‘wells of love’. Though custard and coconut are
traditional, I’ve taken these a step further with
some caramelised banana. For a shortcut, you
could use shop-bought sweet pastry –
just make sure it’s all-butter.

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 95
 THE FAMILY BAKE
GIANT
JAFFA CAKE This cake has it all: a light-as-air sponge base, a zingy orange jelly
layer and a generous chocolate topping. Even better, our recipe creates
a supersized version of a classic tea-time treat. What’s not to love?
The recipe
CROWD SERVES 12. HANDS-ON TIME 50 MIN,
PLEASER OVEN TIME 20-25 MIN, PLUS CHILLING
Start the recipe a day
MAKE
AHEAD ahead of time or at least
7 hours before serving to
allow time for the finished cake
to set fully. It will keep well in
an airtight container, stored
somewhere cool.
FOR THE JELLY LAYER
• 135g pack orange jelly cubes
• 250ml boiling water
FOR THE SPONGE
• 190g unsalted butter, softened,
plus extra to grease
• 190g caster sugar
• 3 medium free-range eggs,
beaten
• 190g self-raising flour
• Finely grated zest ½ orange
plus 1 tbsp juice
FOR THE TOPPING
• 100g dark chocolate, at least 70%,
roughly chopped
• 100g milk chocolate, roughly
chopped
YOU’LL ALSO NEED…
• 23cm non-stick shallow cake tin
and 30cm diameter (measured
across the top) non-stick
ovenproof frying pan; compostable
baking paper; cling film; electric
hand mixer
1 Grease the cake tin and frying
pan, then line the cake tin with cling
film and the bottom of the frying
pan with baking paper. Put the jelly
in a heatproof bowl and pour over
the boiling water. Gently stir until
completely dissolved, then pour
into the lined cake tin and put in the
fridge to set for at least 1-2 hours.
2 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/
gas 4. Put the butter and sugar
in a large mixing bowl and use an
electric hand mixer to beat them
together until light and creamy. Add
the beaten eggs a little at a time,
whisking in between additions until
fully incorporated. Sift in the flour,
then use a metal spoon to fold
everything together. Stir in the
orange zest and juice.
3 Use a spatula to scrape the batter
into the frying pan and smooth it
level. Bake on the middle shelf of
the oven for 20-25 minutes until
risen and golden and a skewer
comes out clean when pushed into
the centre. Run a knife around the
edge of the cake, turn it out onto a
wire rack to cool completely, then
put on a serving plate.
4 Once the jelly has set, make the
topping. Put the dark and milk
chocolate in a heatproof bowl and
set it over a pan of steaming, not
simmering, water (don’t let the bowl
touch the water). Leave to melt
slowly without stirring. As soon as
the chocolate has melted, remove it
from the heat and leave to stand for
15-20 minutes until lukewarm.
5 Using the cling film to help you, lift
RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: LOTTIE COVELL. PHOTOGRAPH: KATE WHITAKER. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE
out the jelly and flip it over on top of
the cake. Peel off the cling film, then
quickly and carefully spread the
cooled chocolate over the jelly and
cake to cover. Chill the cake in the
fridge for 15 minutes straightaway
to prevent the jelly melting.
6 After 15 minutes when the
chocolate is starting to set, use a
palette knife to make lines: quickly
dip the long edge of the knife in
the chocolate and lift it straight up.
Repeat to make several lines, then
make another series of lines at
90 degrees to the first. Chill again
in the fridge for at least 5 hours or
overnight (see Make Ahead).
PER SERVING 382kcals, 19.6g fat
(11.7g saturated), 5.3g protein,
45.7g carbs (33.4g sugars),
1.2g salt, 0.1g fibre
 make it special.

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 97
 BITE-SIZE BREAK

A tasteful staycation
ALL MANOR WHY IT’S GREAT WHERE YOU STAY restaurants. You’ll dine there in
OF DELIGHTS
(CLOCKWISE FROM
If you cancelled your big summer They’ve managed to create a the rustic new Smoke restaurant,
ABOVE) Arts and hol abroad this year, how about funked-up feel in the Arts and tastefully converted from an
Crafts elements treating yourself to a quick hit of Crafts-era house with mid-century outbuilding, or in one of the
are treated to luxury in the heart of England? furniture, but haven’t sacrificed the revamped vintage greenhouses
mid-century
accents in the Hampton Manor, set in 45 acres in wood panelling, original tiled floors adjacent to it, with lots of space.
décor; the the village of Hampton-in-Arden and other period details to achieve The food is hearty-meaty – think
entrance to the on the Warwickshire borders, has it. Rooms are individually designed groan-inducing 12-hour beef
walled garden;
Peel’s restaurant
created a laid-back, two-night and have bold, deep colours, brisket finished in the smoker, with
lets ingredients package for food and drink lovers. William Morris wallpaper here and heritage beetroot and crusty-chewy
set the tone; the With only 19 rooms, that’s more there, and big, comfy beds. A nice homemade sourdough. Afterwards,
airy Nyetimber than an acre each to wallow in. touch: coffee beans and a grinder warm yourself by the firepits and
Summer House
and cosy rooms The former estate of prime to make your own fresh brew. toast some marshmallows.
in the Grade II minister Sir Robert Peel, it’s owned The Michelin-starred Peel’s
listed building and run by the Hill family, who live EATING restaurant in the main house is
are surrounded
just outside the grounds, and it feels On your first night, stroll down the setting for Saturday night’s
by 45 acres
a bit like coming to an exclusive to the beautifully restored Victorian four-course set menu. It’s exciting
house party for the weekend (albeit walled garden, stocked with food, going big on extracting the
with a bill at the end of it). fruit and veg that supply the flavour from a key ingredient rather

98 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

than throwing too much on the
plate. ‘Tomato’ featured smoked
turbot roe in a tomato broth which
exploded with flavour; ‘Potato’
(which sounds uncannily like a
Blackadder episode) caused a
reassessment of something
regarded by many as mere filler.
Breakfasts are leisurely and
include a good, not-too-sweet
homemade granola and, as well
as the usual suspects (full English,
eggs benedict), the options of a
plate of British cured meats or
a satisfying bacon roll (with,
controversially to some, homemade
brown sauce and ketchup).
DRINKING
When you arrive, you’re invited to
WORDS: LES DUNN
hang out in the pretty, leafy and
flower-filled Nyetimber Summer
House (this is where breakfast is
served, too) and enjoy a glass of
the celebrated English sparkler of
the same name to start your stay
with a pop.
The hotel has also embraced the
natural wine revolution (don’t
worry, none of them tastes like
cider) with an interesting collection
of world-spanning bottles, ordered
by style (dry, fruity) rather than
grape or country. The reason
becomes clear at the wine tasting
James Hill conducts on Saturday
afternoon. It will attune you to
what natural wine is all about, and
his evangelical charm may even
convert you to the cause.
At cocktail hour, bring your own
vinyl or use the hotel’s collection to
spin Eighties tunes on the turntable
in the parlour when the gins come
out to play (the golden, barrel-aged
Wasted Cascara, made at Piston
Gin in Worcester to Hampton
Manor’s recipe, is an intriguing
hungry traveller.
drop). After dinner, the estimable
whisky collection gets an airing too.
OUT AND ABOUT
In your room is a ‘field map’ of the
area with walk options. The longest
takes a couple of hours through
rolling fields and along a carp lake,
where you might find competitive
anglers hauling in their catch.
Make it even more leisurely by
stopping for a pint from the local
Purity Brewing Co at friendly
wood-beamed pub The Bulls Head.
COST
From £720 for two for Tuesday and
Wednesday or Friday and Saturday
nights, with breakfast and dinner
each day (four-course set menu in
Peel’s; six courses and wine flights
available for a supplement). Wine
tasting and garden tour included.
hamptonmanor.com
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deliciousmagazine.co.uk 101
 “I hope one day
everyone will be
able to experience
the food of Gaza”
For most of us, plentiful food is one of the many things we’re lucky
enough to take for granted. World Food Day on 16 October is a moment
to reflect on the hardships many experience in getting enough to eat –
and to appreciate how vital food is to our sense of connectedness. Chef
and TV presenter John Gregory-Smith travelled to Gaza and found
a vibrant food culture, thriving in the most testing conditions

H
ere I am in Khan Yunis,
a city in the south of the
Gaza Strip, one of the
most closed-off parts of the world.
I’ve come to see the extraordinary
work the World Food Programme
does here. Two million people live
in an area of less than 400 square
kilometres and the charity feeds
270,000 of them every day. Around
80 per cent of the families the charity
assists receive vouchers they can
exchange for food from around 200
shops across Gaza. The remainder
receive parcels of the basics: wheat
flour, lentils, chickpeas, vegetable
oil and salt.
Laila and her family are among
the beneficiaries of the charity, and
we’re eating a typical Palestinian
meal that’s cheap, nutritious and
packed with flavour. Unlike most
communities I’ve come across in
this region, Gazans love eating
spicy food laced with green chillies.
Khan Yunis has been around for
thousands of years – a stronghold
along the great trading routes that
connect Africa and Asia. Over the
years, it has soaked up the flavours
of different cultures, giving it
a unique palette of its own.
A MISSION WITH REWARDS
I never fail to be astounded by how
unifying food can be. It’s been
quite a journey for me to get into
Gaza – getting permission to cross
Like the food, the resilient people are
awesome, trying so hard to live a normal life
under such extreme conditions.
the heavily armed border took
months of paperwork, interviews
and medicals – but here I am with
this magical family, connecting
over a simple meal. My heart melts
for them. Their incredible daughter
Lama, who’s 11, is recovering from
eye surgery, and she practises her
English on me. Needless to say,
she puts my Arabic to shame. She’s
world view.
FOR RICHER
RICHER, FOR
POORER Gaza
offers its own
zingy take on
Middle Eastern
cuisine, but
many Gazans
struggle to afford
smart and full of positive energy. the basics
I hope she gets the opportunities
in life that every child should have:
the chance to grow up safely,
without fear and hunger – and to
know that, whatever her aspirations
and dreams, she can achieve them
and live her life freely. That hope
is a pipe dream at the moment.
After lunch, we hop into →
d k 10
 I’m sitting at the dining table with Laila
and her wonderful family. We’re tucking into a
rather splendid lunch of red lentil and chard soup
spiked with fiery chillies and garlic, and a zesty
tomato salad called dagga. It’s heavy with dill
and lemon juice. Some of the soup has been
spooned over little pieces of slightly dry, day-old
pitta bread. The bread mellows in the piping hot
soup… It tastes divine, and is such a clever way
to ensure that nothing goes to waste.
bomb-proof Toyotas, complete with to store or treat sewage in Gaza,
inch-thick glass windows and so it goes straight into the sea.
impenetrable locks. The doors are It helps to explain why the beach
so heavy that I have to use both is empty. I leg it back to the car
hands just to pull them open, but with my fruit, the sweet perfumed
the transport is a requirement for scent of the guava acting as
all foreign nationals given access to a natural air freshener.
travel around the region. Egyptian
pop music blasts out of the stereo REMARKABLE FOOD
as we drive along the coast and The next day we’re up early to have
back to Gaza City. We pass miles breakfast at Akeeleh, an old
of sandy beaches that are bizarrely houmous shop on the side of
empty. In a place so densely Azaweya Market in the old city.
populated, it’s strange to see so Houmous is traditional Palestinian
much unused space. fare and has a fiercely protected
I spot a little stall selling fresh heritage. In the café they sell three
guava. We pull over and, using my types: original; musabaha, which
leg, I heave open the heavy door. has whole chickpeas mixed in; and
The stench of sewage hits me, and ful, a darker dish made with fava
my driver explains there’s nowhere beans. I buy several of each, as well

104 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

as salads, falafel and drinks for
me and the crew. It costs me
50 shekels (about a tenner) to feed
10 people. The houmous is super
smooth and rich with tahini. A
huge crowd has gathered, wanting
to know what I think of it. I tell
them that my first taste of real
Palestinian houmous is knockout,
and they look thrilled.
After breakfast, we wander
through the vibrant market piled
high with cucumbers, aubergines,
courgettes and corn. There are large
buckets of green olives, so young
they taste acrid when I eat them.
I spot a huge basket of fresh sumac
berries, dark red in colour and
intensely sour. There are pyramid-
shaped mounds of za’atar and
dukkah. This dukkah is completely
different from the Egyptian style
I’m accustomed to, which is made
with nuts and spices. The Gazan
dukkah is prepared using smoked
wheat and spices that are ground
together, then mixed with whole
sesame seeds. Despite the chatter
of boisterous traders, it’s quiet and
there are barely any shoppers. I’m
told that most of the fresh produce
is too expensive for the average
person living in Gaza. Those
supported by the World Food
Programme will use local shops
vetted by the charity to buy
groceries with the credit on
their food vouchers – some are
living on less than one US
dollar a day and often have to
buy frozen food and dry goods
rather than anything fresh.
Next we stop at Abu al-Su’od,
a pastry shop well-known for
selling the best knafah in Gaza.
Knafah is one of my favourite
desserts – a classic Middle Eastern
dish made from thin strands of
filo pastry that look almost like
noodles. These are nestled into
a tin with a layer of cheese in the
middle and cooked in a sugar
syrup until the pastry is crisp and
the cheese melting – a textural
delight that’s sweet, crunchy and
gooey. In Gaza, they have their
own version called knafah arabiya.
As I wolf down a huge slab, I’m told
it’s a mix of walnuts and sugar,
topped with semolina. It’s an
incredible find that most of
the world will never get to hear
about, let alone experience.
We’re not the only people in the
shop – there are other customers
popping in for a slice of knafah and
a good old gossip. It’s wonderful to
see how much joy a simple thing
can bring. But you know what?
I defy anyone not to crack a smile
world view.
over this decadent dessert. QUITE A SPREAD
Pyramids of
I’m not here to offer up platitudes spices and piles
about a complex problem – a of fresh produce
solution is almost impossible to fill the market,
imagine. What I will say is that while lunch with
a local family
Gaza left me spellbound. I was is a revelation
lucky to be safe and well-looked- and a visit to the
after during my visit and, as a houmous shop
provides a
result, my takeouts are positive.
budget feast for
Like the food, the resilient people John and crew
are awesome – trying so hard to live
a normal life under such extreme
conditions. I hope that, one day,
those I’ve met and this remarkable
cuisine will be something everyone
will be able to experience. →
A BIG THANK YOU John went
to Gaza with the World Food
Programme. To find out more
about the charity’s extraordinary
work and to donate, visit wfp.org/
support-us/stories/donate.
 Try this
at home... Traditionally baked in a clay
pot, this fabulous coastal
Palestinian dish is an example
of how a few spices can lift
a recipe from ordinary to
extraordinary. The base is
a combination of garlic, dill
and spicy green chilli – add
two for even more of a kick.

Spicy prawn tomato stew

(zibdiyit gambari)
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN

If you’re vegetarian/vegan,
EASY add roasted aubergine
SWAPS
instead of the prawns.

• 3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped

• 1 green chilli, roughly chopped
• Small bunch fresh dill, roughly
chopped
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 1 red pepper, finely chopped
• 4 ripe tomatoes, finely chopped
• 1½ tsp ground cumin
• ½ tsp ground allspice adding a good pinch of salt and for 5 minutes to allow all the
• 2 cardamom pods, bashed open freshly ground pepper. flavours to develop.
with a rolling pin or the side 2 Heat the oil in a pan (one with 4 Turn up the heat to medium-low
of a knife a lid) over a medium heat. Add the and tip the prawns into the pan,
• 2 tbsp tomato purée onion and pepper to the pan and stirring them in. Cover again, then
RECIPE, STYLING AND PHOTOGRAPH: JOHN GREGORY-SMITH

• 450g raw peeled king prawns cook, stirring occasionally, for cook for 3-4 minutes until they’re
• Juice ½ lemon 6-8 minutes until golden and soft. pink and cooked through. Squeeze
• 15g toasted pine nuts Add the garlic/chilli paste and in the lemon juice, stir and check
• Brown rice to serve stir-fry for 10 seconds until it the seasoning. Scatter over the pine
begins to smell fragrant. nuts and the remaining dill and
USEFUL TO HAVE 3 Add the tomatoes to the pan and serve immediately with brown rice.
• Pestle and mortar or mini cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-5 PER SERVING 202kcals, 9.3g fat
processor minutes until they’ve broken down. (1.2g saturated), 22.1g protein,
NEXT Next add the spices, tomato purée 6.2g carbs (5.3g sugars), 0.6g salt,
MONTH
1 Blend the garlic, chilli and most and 100ml of just-boiled water from 2.6g fibre
Secrets from
the delicious. of the dill to a paste with a pestle the kettle, then mix well. Cover the For more ways to use ground
test kitchen and mortar or in a mini processor, pan, turn the heat to low and cook allspice, see Loose Ends

106 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
thick icelandic
style
yogurt
for your records.

OC T OBE R 2 02 0

RECIPE INDEX

65 86 72
STARTERS, NIBBLES, SIDES • Salmon and minted pea filo • Stuffed baby pumpkins with preserved
& OTHERS parcels 56 lemon 65
• Double-baked mushroom soufflés 72 • Sardine fishcakes with chilli • Super-meaty spag bol 42
• Mary Berry’s best roasties 73 corn salsa 28
• Rough puff pastry 55 • Spicy prawn tomato stew SWEET THINGS
(zibdiyit gambari) 106 • Chocolate honeycomb crunch 7
MAIN COURSES • The ultimate fish pie 53 • Chocolate steamed pudding with
BEEF, LAMB, PORK, GAME & POULTRY chocolate sauce 74
• Bacon-wrapped chicken VEGETARIAN, VEGAN & VEG-BASED • Giant Jaffa Cake 96
with roast caponata 31 • Frying-pan samosa pie 38 • Kulfi-inspired ice cream sundae 82
• Chilli pork and pineapple rice • Greek-style one-pot with courgette • Maple and spice pumpkin pie 66
bowl 32 dumplings 32 • Pear, maple & calvados
• Lamb meatball biryani 82 • Halloumi and charred hispi cabbage custard tart 86
• Roast chicken with tarragon with beetroot and tahini slaw 32 • Puits d’amour (wells of love) 94
butter and melting onions 72 • Pumpkin risotto with corn and • Rhubarb and ginger Napolitaines
• Spiced molasses chicken ricotta 65 (Mauritian sandwich biscuits) 92
wings with mango salad 93 • Quick tandoori kebabs 38 • Salted toffee apples 7
• Roasted cherry tomato and tarragon
FISH & SEAFOOD spaghetti 31
• Baked salmon with pea guacamole • Spice-roasted pumpkin soup with
and smashed new potatoes 26 macadamia nut dukkah 60
• Hot and sour curried cod pie 55 • Spicy dan dan noodles 40

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12. Eye to Eye Media Ltd reserves the right to amend these terms and conditions, or to cancel, alter or amend the promotion, if deemed necessary in its opinion.

108 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
 coming next month.

Plan & dream

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to be had with our page of brain teasers

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HUGH THOMPSON
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7 A classic Mai tai cocktail
PRIZE CROSSWORD NO. 21

17 44 18
a) Persimmon contains rum and what
44 44 44 44 44 b) Nectarine other spirit?
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44 19 44 44 b) Amarula

Complete the puzzle, take a picture and email it to 2 You’d find it in a kitchen,
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114 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
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