Activity 5. Assuming that you are about to perform leak test in your car.

Make your own procedures in

performing leak test not more than fifteen in accordance with manufacturer’s specifications.
(15points)

Step 1 : Remove the spark plugs and rotate the engine to put the cylinder to be tested at TDC. Tip: Insert
a long screwdriver or extension into the spark plug hole and turn the engine by hand with a socket on the
crankshaft. When the screwdriver stops rising or falling, you’re at TDC. Don’t turn the engine backward if
TDC is missed. Go around again. In a four-cylinder engine, cylinders one and four and two and three are
at TDC at the same time.

Step 2 : Figure out which spark plug adapter works best and connect the gauge into the hole. Put the
vehicle in gear and set the parking brake to prevent the engine from turning when air is compressed into
the cylinder. Start with the regulator turned counterclockwise to zero the incoming pressure. Connect
compressed air. Turn the regulator clockwise to pressurize air into the cylinder.

Step 3 : Record leakage percentage for the cylinder. Remove the oil dipstick, radiator cap and oil filler
cap. Open the throttle body or remove the air cleaner. Listen and watch. Wherever air is escaping will
indicate where the problem is. Disconnect the gauge and move to the next cylinder.

Activity 6. Assuming that you are about to replace the water pump in your car. Make your own
procedures in replacing water pump and its parts not more than ten in accordance with manufacturer’s
specifications. (10 points)

1. Begin with a completely cooled engine, then disconnect the negative battery post.
2. Drain your coolant into a catch pan by loosening the petcock on the bottom of the radiator.
3. Replacement pumps usually come with the gaskets needed for the job. Refer to your repair
manual and familiarize yourself with the pump type and location before beginning.
4. The water pump is sometimes well hidden beneath the exhaust manifold. Your vehicle’s repair
manual will tell you which components you'll need to remove to get to the water pump. On some
engines, you may need to remove the radiator, shroud and hoses to access the water pump. You
may also need to remove the fan, pulleys and harmonic balancer, which will require a specialized
puller.
5. Remove the old water pump. Pay attention to the length of the bolts as you remove them
because they might not all be the same.
6. Use a scraper or Brillo pad to make sure all surfaces, including the pump mounting surfaces, are
clean and free of old water pump gasket material and adhesives before reassembly. Coolant
leaks may result if mating surfaces are not clean.
7. Test-fit the water pumps and visualize assembly before proceeding.
8. Use RTV silicone water pump gasket sealer and/or a gasket if your repair manual recommends it.
Take your time with this step as leaks can result if done improperly. Use a gasket scraper or putty
knife and prep the facing surface thoroughly before going any further. You don't want to have a
poorly-seated gasket and have to redo the job to repair any leaks.
9. Install the replacement pump. Refer to your repair manual for proper refastening sequence.
Torque all bolts to spec.
10. Reinstall all removed components. Refer to your repair manual for proper coolant refilling method
and coolant mixture. Be sure to bleed the system to remove any pockets of air, which could result
in improper operation and overheating.