Apparel Production Control

Managing Production in
Decentralised Manufacturing

Garment Manufacturing Technology Department

National Institute of Fashion Technology

New Delhi Calcutta Hyderabad Chennai Mumbai Gandhinagar

Apparel Production Control

Why use sub-contractors? Advantages & disadvantages

Advantages:

 Product line flexibility

 Quick response & short throughput time.
 Ability to handle short-runs and long-runs.
 Handling multiple styles simultaneously.
 Ability to cope with peak production requirements.
 Freedom form labour hassles.
 Capability of producing highly stylised garments.

Disadvantages:

 High risk of late deliveries.

 Unpredictable quality
 Pilferage and over consumption off fabric and trims.
 Copying of styles and designs incase of non-exclusive fabricators.
 Outdated technology and equipment .
 Lack of cleanliness and good housekeeping.
 No control over working conditions.
 Seasonal absenteeism and lack of commitment
 High labour trunover

Selecting a sub-contractor: Subcontractor evaluation and

information needed for planning
Identification of Subcontractors:

 Area of operation (geographical locality)

 Item segregation & specialisation

Development of Subcontractors:

 Infrastructure support. (Leasing specialised m/c)

 Imparting training to supervisors

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 Imparting training to operators.

Check Points:

 Check fabric before spreading.

 Check cut-parts before bundling.
 Sticker on one face in case of double faced fabric
 Send an approved sample with all accessories attached.
 Send multiple copies of ready patterns
 Send an approved quality & colour thread.
 Retrieve all old stocks of labels, threads, buttons etc. from fabricators after
finishing particular order.
 Specification sheet for each order should communicated (may be written in
local language exactly what details the buyer wants in the particular style.

Subcontructor Development

 Vendor Compliance Issues

 Implementation of production and quality documentation
 Use of specialised machines and attachments
 Implementation of maintenance practices
 Working together on quality and delivery issues
 Working on Achieving right first time approach
 Allocation of orders and production and quality monitoring
 Sharing the feedback on On-time / delayed orders and quality performance to
reward achievers and to encourage others.

Common Problem with Fabricators:

 Uneven SPI (Different SPI) in different Garments.
 Soiled Pieces. (oil marks/dirt marks/food stains)
 Shade variation.
 Poor overlock quality
 Joint Stitches
 (poor quality of thread used/machine setting)
 (Unnecessary ripping off pieces)

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 Rope effect in hemlines

 Uneven distribution of gathering
 In consistent loop spacing
 In consistent double needle lock stitch
 Poor fusing quality

Some Common Questions

 How many fabricators do you deal with?

 What is the range of number of machines with the fabricators?
 What are the kinds of machines they have; are most of them single needle lock
stitch or do they also have 3 and 5 thread overlock machines? Are the machines
Indian or imported?
 Are any kinds of attachments being used on the machines?
 What are the inputs given by the company with a particular order (patterns,
measurement charts etc.)
 Is the cutting done in-house or by the fabricator?
 What is the kind of transportation system being used to transport goods?
 How much is the percentage inspection being done and at what all stages of the
production?
 What are the kind of vendor development programs have taken up till date?
 Hod do you decide the piece rate of the garment?
 Do you have a policy of leasing machines or giving others technological inputs?
 Do you give any incentive to the fabricators, in terms of higher piece rate or
bulk orders, to the fabricators who give you better quality than the others?
 Business is based on captive orders vs. need based orders?

Strategic Check Points

 A particular product must be sourced from a single of or minimum No. of
suppliers
Result – Min lot variation
Simplification of paperwork & communication
 A personal record of the performance of each fabricator should be maintained.

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 As medium term measure start developing subcontractors using "Process

Capability Model for Decentralised Manufacturing" of Professor Rajesh Bheda.

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